There's a light board near the upper flipper that's probably got something loose. Mine's pretty finnicky and even the gluing i did seems to shake loose sometimes. Affects most of the right side and the pop LED. Annoyingly out of reach from the coin door.

Thank you so much for sharing the 3d file for these spacers!

For anyone wondering, I was able to order 3 copies from Shapeways in PA11 (SLS) for only $52 after shipping.
Not trying to steel your business, just giving other material options to folks, once again really appreciate your engineering here!
(*edit: keep in mind, Shapeways is about a 1 month turnaround time too...so patience is key)

Waiting for the invoice for Standard Edition #745, any day now!!!

Totally agree and understand. I hope you get some orders, as it's a great design.

Spooky should wake up and realize this could be an easier option than getting people to replace bushings, which for non-technical people, is daunting.

I fully agree!!

That's actually one thing I was thinking about yesterday. Aside from my right flipper to left ramp shot, everything plays very strong. If lowering the bushings increases the shot power, there would probably be some sort of adjustment needed.

If anything, I guess Spooky could create a flipper profile for "original" or "lowered" bushings, and then allow us to tweak it if necessary.

I'm not afraid to get under a game and work on it, and even I don't want to have to replace the bushings because it's a pain in the ass.

I think if your spacer idea effectively does the same thing, this is a much better approach for Spooky, especially considering they seem to be having issues with whatever manufacturer they're working with on the bushings.

This is a fix that is already available, and they can make customers happier quicker.

Let's see what they do.

I'm pretty sure they're going to send new bushings to each customer who has asked for them after they receive a satisfactory bushing from the company making them.

I seriously doubt they're going to purchase possibly hundreds of $45 mods... and have to deal with all the people who install them wrong or have some other problem with the mod.

The mod is still a band-aid and way you shake it. I sanded my bushings down and will wait patiently for replacements

So I decided to also design my own spacers that are easy to install. Basically just took the williams bracket and traced the exist pad. I slid a 4.5mm nut under the stock flippers and there was still some space so I printed some at that height.
Obviously adding spacers means less thread engagement. The bracket is 3.5mm, spacer 4.5mm, so you have 8mm + 12mm of playfield thickness. I had some 5/8" (16mm) screws lying around that worked great (should still be 4mm of space before you hit the top of the playfield). You could theoretically go to a 3/4" length but that only leaves 1mm (too close to the surface).

I loosened all the screws, took one side all the way out, slid the spacers underneath, tightened the new screws on one side, then pulled the old screws out of the other side and repeated (doesn't even require you to remove the flipper bat).

I folded a piece of paper 5 times (16 sheet thickness or about 1/16") and it still fit under the flipper taught so I know I won't be scraping my playfield.

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You can see the difference between stock and flipper lowered, ball is way more centered
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I found it odd they used 2 different screw lengths. I get that you really only need 4 screws on the outside, but then why even bother with the middle screws? I would worry about production putting the wrong length in the wrong hole.
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Old outer screw vs the longer one
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These are the screws I used: https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A196

Download the file here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871429

If anyone wants some of these, I'll print you a set of 12 for the cost of shipping (should be $3). Looks like I'm short some screws so I'll probably buy a bag of 100 so I can also include screws.

Why would they pay $45?

First off, if they wanted to do it, they could just "borrow" the design. I mean, in the perfect world, they would give some sort of monetary credit for having someone come up with this. but as you see on the post above, it's not like there's only one way to do this.

And we know Spooky has a 3D printer, so why not have this as an option for people that might prefer it due to simplicity.

The argument that it's a bandaid is nonsense. It achieves the EXACT same result as lowering your bushings. If you print is PETG, it won
t break, and you'll get the same identical flipper height as you would swapping bushings.

You can't only think about yourself and your ideal solution. Consider someone who has this game that won't want to completely take apart there assembly and replace the bushings. This is why is makes sense for Spooky to jump on this quick and easy fix, even if it's an Option B.

It SEEMS that way, but there's a lot of vibration on that plate and it's no longer mounted to a large strong surface, so unfortunately, the PETG can absolutely break. Only time will tell if these won't.

I'm not dogging the solution, just saying to temper your expectations. Also, a cast nylon bushing is much stronger.

I agree, for me, the bushings would be the way. Just trying to think about the other people that really aren't prepared to do that job.

I think it would serve Spooky to consider this as an option.

The problem is, with nylon bushings you have decades of performance data showing their reliability for this use. This solution has a few weeks of data in a limited environment. They could just be multiplying their headache 6 months or a year from now after they sent these out to everyone. It's by no means a slam dunk, and potentially just a deferred problem when the PETG 3D printed mounts start breaking.

All that said, I STILL have no idea why they thought going with a thinner playfield was a good idea.

I recently listened to a pod cast with George Gomez who was talking about playfields leaving the factory perfectly flat but then warping during transit or storage. This would be even more likely with a thinner pf. I'm sure Spooky was aware of all this and maybe the decision was financial or they felt it was a better quality? At least the ink isn't delaminating (cough, cough... GnR... cough).

While the thin ones come with their own set of problems, I don't think anyone can deny the R&M playfields are very good structurally compared to all the issues on others.

Yeah, other than a few dimples (and most of them are very insignificant), I only wish that Stern and JJP were making playfields as good as the one in my R&M. I'd even live with thinner playfields and trim all my bushings down in every game for this playfield quality.

And even the nylon bushings crack over time from the stress. Look at this one just pulled from a white water. EDIT - I'm not advocating for or against the spacer solution, I'm just pointing out that if the even stronger material breaks, then chances are good that the weaker material will too.

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You got it all figured out.

I bought the mod for $45. I'm hardly finding the time to play the game, so I'm into grabbing the easiest solution for whatever issue. That's why I bought the MRS for my switches up in the loops.

I'm not looking to argue with you. They stated they are sending new bushings when they get them. You can pretend like you know the cost to spooky, that everyone who gets the mod will know how to install it, and that the mod won't cause some unforeseen issue(s) that customers will demand another fix for.

Maybe Spooky will do exactly what you want if you keep posting about it and take over the thread? Thanks and Good luck.

If I had the ability to choose or both at hand, I would certainly choose a shorter bushing. I am all for a factory look.

well..that isn't factory..so..

also, this in no way impacts the 'look'.

For those of you in the North East who have still not gotten to play one, I will be bringing my Rick and Morty BSE #373 to the Allentown Pinfest this summer and putting it on Freeplay. RIP my high scores.

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No need to argue, it's pinball. No one ever should argue about a hobby that we should actually be grateful that we can even be in.

I don't claim to have all or any of the answers, and this will be my last post on the subject, because I'd rather get back to talking about how cool the code is, and with the new season trailer, maybe there's hope that Eric will add some new adventures.

In the end, it will be up to Spooky to decide how they will fix this. I personally would rather the bushings, but if I'm feeling lazy, maybe I'd starts with the spacers to see how it goes. If they break after a while, I can replace them easily.

If someone is afraid to take apart bushings, maybe this is a better option. I'm just trying to think about others, remembering how intimidating these machines were to me 5 years ago when I got my first game.

Glad to hear you are coming to appreciate it. Yes, the game shows signs of growing pains, but damn that code is just amazing.

Sadly, I think this game will set my expectations high of anything else coming out.

Does anyone have a complete list of Adventures for this machine? Do some adventures only get triggered once farther along in a game?

thanks

Edit: I am aware of 11. The only one that is progress base locked is Love Potion #9 as far as I know. Pickle Rick supposedly will not come up as your first, but can as second.

Roy
Schwifty
Moonmen
Scary Terry
Total Rickall
Armothy
Whirly Dirly
Anatomy Park
Purge
Pickle Rick
Love Potion #9

2 multiballs
Grom
Meeseeks

I have no idea how many dimensions. I've heard people speak of ones I've never seen. There's one I've only seen 1 time.

I'm curious if there is a slow motion dimension (very fast flashing strobe).

When the adventure selector randomly makes a selection, What is 'Real fake doors'? I always see this on the list, but has never been chosen...??

thanks...

Real Fake Doors is a commercial from Interdimensional Cable. It is not a real award.

It's the Spanish Armada of Adventures.

Yeah, i know its from Interdimensional Cable, I just wanted to know if its possible to get selected or not - I did not realize they had selections in the list that will never be actually selected...

thanks

So you're saying the bushings aren't the final solution?

All I'm saying is 3D printed PETG is not the same as molded PETG. There are built in layer lines from creation that even 100% infill can't overcome. If injection molded nylon bushings can break from force or vibration, 3D printed PETG used like this absolutely can, and probably sooner. I'm not saying it CAN'T work, just that there's not enough real-world data for Spooky to jump feet first into this solution over the more proven long term viability of injection molded bushings. As a DIY solution of a handful (or a few handfuls) of owners, though, great and definitely worth a try.

I found these somewhere and had saved them. Unsure if there are additional since this list or not:

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The confusing part was that penultimate doesn't mean final. It means the one before final.

I do a lot of 3D parts, but having been through a ton of iterations of PETG flipper cooling brackets, that repetitive vibration CAN break them, even at 70-80% infill, so I'm very aware of the limitations.

Why Spooky doesn’t just get a batch of regular flipper bushings and have someone grind 1/8” or so off and send them out is beyond me. This could have been sorted out in a day or so.

Because they are getting them made and doing it right after a problem was found. Can you imagine the outrage if they bought and grinded down parts to send out?

Only an ASS would be Outraged with Spooky.
Spooky is so transparent, and makes every effort to fix problems, shaming by example the many other issues, other companys seem to be Ignoring at the moment.

That's an over long sentence.

Go spooky!

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Seems a few people are a bit outraged anyway. I ground mine down and they have been flawless. Game plays properly, on location with thousands of plays. I get compliments on how well it plays compared to other R&M. But if they want to reinvent the wheel, be by guest.

Same, I did nine ages ago mine's great. But the already can't be pleased folk/whiners wouldn't stop i'm sure if they got sanded down parts sent to them.

Never mind, sorry, sounded to negative.
Delete.

Best I can tell is each time the list comes up, there are only 2 real awards on it. All the rest are jokes.

I think the idea with spacers is fine. I even think it will last. Why not? It's just a spacer...

But I think your spacer is really too thick. Have in mind that the bushings will get play over time. If that happens they will scratch over the playfield. You really don't want this.

The spacers should have the thickness only of the difference between standard playfields and spooky R&M ones. Not more. That's the way and that will work for sure without side effects.

So, finally got out to a location and played this game and it did not disappoint. Was set up a little flat, but still able to hit all the shots as needed. Saw nearly all the modes (except Total Rickall) and jumped plenty of dimensions (swamp was horrible though - way too much bass and buzzing). Even had a nice save with the magnet. Just so much fun and insanely immersive. If I can convince my wife that the censored mode is PG enough (lol) I might stand a chance of bringing it home one day.

What location? I'm in Socal, interested in what's open. Other pins on location?
I need to play another R&M, to compare, I've made no adjustments to mine.

Brewskis in Miramar (San Diego). also have Deadpool Pro, TSPP, MBrLE, JP Pro, IM Pre, and AIQ Pro. Little soft on the plunge for R&M and like I said in my post could use some more pitch/speed. But a decent place to drop some quarters if you're in the area, for sure.