I have a spare bracket, so replacing it isn't an issue.

But the two bottom screws look like they have pulled out on an angle and left a larger hole.

Would I need to do the toothpick trick to fix these?

Is there any concerns like splitting the corner of the cabinet if I leave it like this? The bolts are screwing in more (deeper) than the other legs, so I'm worried it's putting stress on that corner.

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I would sure be willing to work out some kind of deal on their next game . I certainly don’t want to tell them how to do business or even how their machine should “feel”.

Personally I think the game feels insanely better with the flippers lowered. Like I said earlier, I was shocked by this. In fact, I am debating turning down my flipper power because it actually hits the ball so much harder that I see more air balls and ramp launches. Even the upper flipper feels different for me. I am actually able to hit the left side of the horseshoe lock reliably from the upper flipper now.

The slight change in height also has the effect of slightly adjusting the timing on the shots. The left ramp and right orbit feel more like “sweet spot” shots to me vs. the factory design.

Lastly I am actually debating if dropping the flippers has an impact on the coil heat generation. I don’t want to make any false claims here, but I swear my flippers felt strong for a longer session than prior.

Please take my comments with a grain of salt…for all I know this is a placebo effect and nothing has changed . I’ll get them in the hands of a few other people and hopefully they can report back on their experience.

Doesn't it have a corner block behind the bracket?

The flippers are essentially topping the ball. A ton of force is being lost with them set as high as they are.

How thick?
I think us mortals could accomplish this with some washers

It looks like the bottom legbolt was over tightened and bent the bracket. That's why the screw looks pulled and angled towards the middle.

1) Grab another Bally/Williams bracket.

2) Remove the leg and old bracket, put leg bolts in and secure to the new plate and finger tighten and maybe a half turn with a socket wrench (don't over torque it or you will split the cab).

3) Screw in the six screws that secure the bracket to the cabinet in its passive position.*

4) Tighten the leg bolts as normal.

* If it doesn't have the triangular piece of wood behind the bracket, I would suggest you cut 2 small triangular pieces and glue to the corner of the cab under the bracket making sure to be clear of the leg bolt holes. It will prevent the bracket from bending if over tightened.

I thank you for your efforts, and releasing the STL.

I designed a printable Shortened Flipper bushing a few months back, but life has gotten in the way of me installing them. I might give yours a go here soon.

you will need to drill and fill those holes otherwise you will be wasting your time.
That bracket is bent and so are the screws unfortunately.

I have done this in the past so if you do not know how to do it, please let me know and I will try to help (can provide tips instructions).

Cheers

I'm going to take the bracket out tonight and hope the screw holes aren't compromised. If they are, I'll try to do the toothpick trick.

For the garage shot ball guide, it looks like you guys are removing the second and third screws (from the bottom), bending it a bit by hand, and then just screwing back the first screw?

Does that sound right?

I just watched the Bowen tutorial and see that if a mode is completed a green stamp is awarded, that is useful for the min-wizard mode.

Am I right in thinking there are no high reward completion bonuses for competing modes?

Guess I have played too much Maiden!

I wanted to post a quick update on the 3D printed portal protector. I've been testing designs of this for about 2.5 weeks now. I thought I had it...then I installed the flipper spacers I created..

As the story goes, I started with the upper flipper just to ensure that the idea would work after many flips. Everything worked great! Then three days ago I installed the X spacer on my main flippers. Although the spacer performed fantastically, the portal protector did not. The ball seems to come off the flipper with more force than before which has the chance to crack the portal protector. While experimenting I would say it takes approximately 30 direct hits before the portal protector will crack.

The cracks themselves aren't the issue for me (pictured), it is the aesthetic around the top of the portal. After installing this thing I've become enamored with the look as well as the function. So I went to work to try and solve this. I stayed up way too late over the last two nights, but I can tell you as of this morning I am really happy with the performance of my latest design. I call this design the "ugly duckling" because you actually have to print it with no perimeters. I'm not a physicist but my theory is that this allows the "fibers" of the plastic to disperse the impact exactly how I want rather than trying to take the added stress and push it around the ring.

The test units should be going out tomorrow. Assuming I get positive feedback on both the performance and the shipping I am going to drop the price (refund the testers) and create a bundle with the X spacer set. I am super excited that I might be able to keep costs down and increase quality at the same time!

Please be a little patient as portal protecting and flipper gapping is not my full-time job . I will be cranking on these things during nights and weekends to ensure that I can help everyone who is interested.

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I *really hope* this was a one-time dalliance and they are going back to full-thickness playfields on the next game.

Like, really, really.

Each completion (green stamp) gives a +1x multiplier to scores when a Morty Card is completed, which can be very big!

But in general we chose not to repeat what we did in ACNC with the completion bonus hurry up. There are some adventures with hurry up finales, but you kind of have to look for them!

This sounds great and I see now how this works in the tutorial.

A huge payoff near the end of the game.

Exactly what games need, and one of the reasons always found Tron disappointing.

Great journey but Portal has such a low reward!

The screws were screwed diagonally, and when you place a proper bracket there the hole will not line up and the screw will not have enough grab.

The tooth pick trick is really a hack and I think it might be a waste of your time in this scenario, the hole is just too big ..might as well leave it as is if that is your plan.

Took it apart and I'm shocked by the horrible quality of craftsmanship. First, the bracket was completely bent, the screws were put in on an angle, and they didn't reinforce the cabinet with blocks behind the bracket.

Non-stop trouble with this game since day one!

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You must have got a Friday afternoon machine. I just checked and mine has wood re-enforcements behind the bracket.

It's bent because there's no corner block support. Are all the legs missing that corner wood piece? I assumed it was a mistake...

Yup, they got ripped off as you screwed the leg on.
The torque created by the leg bolt bent it as you are tightening the leg down.

It is hard to fix the holes in the cab, these being the back legs I would screw a screw in all the way out to the back, and then redrill the hole and fill with a dowel. Cut the dowel flush and use a paint pen(black) on the outside, you will never see it.

You can try drilling from inside and fillibg the hole but it is super awkward, benefit is that the dowel will not be seen on the outside this way.

Either way first order of things is getting proper bracket support.

This is horrible workmanship by the way. I would get in touch with spooky

What can I put behind the bracket to reinforce it? Piece of Jenga???

I don't have any wood or tool for that K Nd of stuff, and with the machine up on a stool right now, I have to make a decision soon.

I'm so terribly disappointed with the quality of this game.

This will be the very last Spooky for me, but I still would like to get this fixed so I can actually enjoy it a little.

This seems like a contact Spooky issue.

You must have cranked those leg bolts tight too.

Honestly, it blows you've had issues, I've had some with my game, but i'm prepared parts wise, prepared skill-wise to take care of it and comes across issues. Some hobbyists are not ready to have a NIB pinball machine hit their home. Not shitting on you, just some people won't have the chops to want to deal with an expensive assed toy that "should" come to them mint condition ready to go, but for some reason with all these moving parts, it just ain't a thang for some.

Search through Stern and JJP and etc. ALL providers of new pinballs have issues.

Yes, for the record I'd rather pay a couple hundred more and have standard thickness, it's worth it to not have to worry about screw lengths and parts fitting when servicing the game down the road.

And can invoke much sadness when you make 3 quick 5x potion shots for 6M then drain immediately after the ballsaver ends

Seriously???

I'm pretty prepared to deal with problems, and have had my share of them over the years with my machines. But when the company neglects to put wooden supports behind the brackets, an owner should not need a wood shop.

This is Pinball 101 stuff. They rushed this game out, and put 1 wood support out of 4.

The bracket was bent on day one, I just looked back at my photos, so had nothing to do with me over tightening it.

This is bullshit. No way should I be having this many issues on a single game.

Again, you need to contact Spooky. We realize you are frustrated, but I don't imagine they expect you to fashion brackets. and there isn't much anyone here can do about it.

#647 in the house it was well worth the wait being I bought a standard .

Thank you so much Spooky for all you do. I now have 3 spooky games in my collection and couldn’t be happier. T

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Sorry to those that are having issues.
I think I learned a lot by buying old beat up games and fixing them, not saying that’s for everyone.
I can say this is a tough game for sure. Happy I got the purple coin door on my standard. Plus the purple Pinshield, looking good!

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any shop that works with wood can create this piece.
with the measurements somebody with a bandsaw can make this in 5 minutes really.

I had the game up precariously on a stool, and needed to get it back on legs, so I jacked a wood support from the front leg of another game, and out that in.

5 of the 6 screws went back in tight, so I'm hoping that will hold in place.

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This is precisely why the first few shots in Potion are worth so much

WizardsCastle isn't new to pinball!...he has plenty of machines and experience. It's plainly obvious that many of his issues are outside the norm. Saying "ALL providers of new pinballs have issues." is a vacuous comment.

Rick and Morty number 719 made it to the Western mass pinball club today! Game seems to be playing great, only odd thing that happened, and I don’t think it’s correct, is during certain modes we ended up getting a second ball plunged into play. Definitely happened during scary terry and pirates of the pancreas. I don’t think that is normal. It was NOT a multiball stacking. I noticed that every time it happened, we had one ball lock for the ship. Is this normal, and if not, has anyone had this happen and figured out a fix?

What is this loose connector over on the left?

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No idea, probably scrap.

After nearly 2 months, I have almost all issues and modification done to the game so I can actually play it!

At least I know when I sell it, the next person won't have any issues at all to deal with.

On a side note, if anyone local to Toronto needs the X Spacer to lower their bushings, I'd be happy to 3D print a set for you at no cost, and you can come pick it up.

Really good job by the way with the 3D print design. Love to see people stepping up and trying to help people in this community, rather than discounting their issues and telling them to suck it up.

what issues did you have?

You probably started Meeseeks Mania, a 2 ball multiball. Did you hear Rick saying something about way too many meeseeks as the second ball was autoplunged? Hit the right target to light blue Meeseeks shots, collect 3(?) to start the multiball.

713 in da house and the first shot I hit was the garage. Thanks Spooky!

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Can you start that during an adventure mode?

I’m pretty sure that it wasn’t meeseeks mode and it’s probably a loose opto connector on the horseshoe, as I believe the ball got added when the one target not holding a ball was hit.

Do a code update. I had the same problem - (seemingly) random ball added which wreaked havoc on the ball management code. I haven’t noticed any of those problems in the new code.

Yes, can bring it in almost anytime. It starts with little fanfare, but all the Meeseeks will light blue.

We did a code update to most recent code before playing a game, so I’ll pay more attention tomorrow to see if it is happing because of meeseeks. Thanks everyone!

Anybody know when the fang club boxes are going out? I saw something about it a while back, but haven't heard anything since

I'm totally cool with this...but please don't accept money for them. It would feel a little shitty to know that someone else is profiting off of my work.

Also, if you printed them for yourself I would love to know how they are working out. In testing today I'm almost certain I need to turn the flipper power down. I'm getting air balls galore! I had two balls go on top of the horseshoe plastic and quite a few aggressive ramp shots. The difference is insane! I am sure everyone's experience will vary but holy crap if 1/8th of an inch isn't like topping a golfball in pinball!

Sorry, didn't mean to go over you on this one. I figured, if you've made the file public, it's available to everyone.

I was just offering a free 3D print to anyone within driving distance. Not looking to make any money, especially since it's not mine.

Again, thanks for doing this for all of us.

I wouldn't say that ...

"Get Megaseeds, Get Bonus ... GET SOME! Motherfu@#er!"

Having some intermittent RBG issues on the right side. The GI, inserts, and sling on the right and GIs in the back right. I know it’s probably a loose connector, but wondering if anyone had an idea on where a common connection for these lights are. I did a quick look under the pf and could find anything loose. Planning to email spooky later, but figured I’d throw it out here first.

I forgot there is a portal in R&M and of course Tron!

Honestly, just tighten and push in EVERY bulb connector. I do it periodically if the PF is up