(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 20,215 posts in this topic. You are on page 278 of 405.
#13851 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

OK, here are the details for the 3D printed hole protector. I'm not sure the Thingiverse link shows the pictures yet...but you guys get the idea from this thread: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866580
If you're interested in tinkering with the design, you can do that here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/40d82f709df95a983374ad60/w/dbaf121b6e644678ccd4d89e/e/a8652334283867e38030c7f9.
Make sure that you read my instructions in the Thingiverse if you print it. I'm not responsible for anything that could possibly go wrong from installing it or using it . Also, I would love any feedback about how it holds up for others people.
As for the PMs on selling it...I wasn't planning on selling it, but I could work up some numbers around the material cost, time and shipping. I honestly think shipping would be the most expensive part of it...but I might even be able to get away with just a padded envelope. Give me a few days and I can work up some kind of number that is both worth my time and not insane for the buyers.
Last thing I'll mention. I've got another 3D print solution that I'm testing. I have some friends coming over tonight to put it through the paces. If it works out, I'll drop that one tomorrow and maybe then there would be a reason to sell both parts together. I appreciate all the positive comments. I've never designed something for a pinball machine before and this is pretty cool .

Interested if you decide to make and sell.

#13852 2 years ago

I am poking around pinside looking for a RM in Canada.

Anybody selling?

Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 10.13.14 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-05-24 at 10.13.14 PM (resized).png
#13853 2 years ago

Anyone know what this is? This was in the part bag.

20210524_212748 (resized).jpg20210524_212748 (resized).jpg
#13854 2 years ago

It's an extra spring for the ship.

#13855 2 years ago

Just installed the May 18 update and my upper flipper is not really working, and when it does go off, very weak. Any idea whats up here?

thx

#13856 2 years ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

Just installed the May 18 update and my upper flipper is not really working, and when it does go off, very weak. Any idea whats up here?
thx

Had you installed the other May update prior? If not, did you set it back to defaults?

#13857 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Had you installed the other May update prior? If not, did you set it back to defaults?

This was the first update I have done as I just got the machine a few days ago. The version it shipped with was from December 2020. Is there something i need to do here? hmmmm

thanks

#13858 2 years ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

This was the first update I have done as I just got the machine a few days ago. The version it shipped with was from December 2020. Is there something i need to do here? hmmmm
thanks

Check the wiring on the upper flipper. The soldering on that upper flipper isn't the best. Also make sure the cabinet switches are adjusted right.

#13859 2 years ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

This was the first update I have done as I just got the machine a few days ago. The version it shipped with was from December 2020. Is there something i need to do here? hmmmm
thanks

If you didn't do the update 2x in a row, do that first. Then set all your flipper settings to default and see how it works.

Since you say you just got it, if the above still doesn't make it better, check your wires, and you may also need to adjust your EoS on your flippers...but I think they've been adjusting those on later games.

#13860 2 years ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

Just installed the May 18 update and my upper flipper is not really working, and when it does go off, very weak. Any idea whats up here?
thx

You need to adjust the gaps in the flipper switch... and maybe find a fix for the plastic ā€˜actuatorā€™ on the first reed.

#13861 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

If you didn't do the update 2x in a row, do that first.

It's like a ritual to placate the pinball gods now, I guess? That was only required for updating from builds before like over a year ago.

#13862 2 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

It's like a ritual to placate the pinball gods now, I guess? That was only required for updating from builds before like over a year ago.

Better safe than sorry I guess.

#13863 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Better safe than sorry I guess.

Better safe than Jerry.

#13864 2 years ago

I got my game about 1.5 months ago, and figured Spooky made updates to the ball guides, but it's nearly impossible to hit that garage orbit shot.

Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?

Thanks!

#13865 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I got my game about 1.5 months ago, and figured Spooky made updates to the ball guides, but it's nearly impossible to hit that garage orbit shot.
Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?
Thanks!

Ball guide.

I actually scooped out my wooden playfield rail with a belt sander so I could curve the ball guide better. Then recolored the wood with a black sharpie.

9E58B84E-332B-49CD-B766-AA57C984326A (resized).jpeg9E58B84E-332B-49CD-B766-AA57C984326A (resized).jpegDEFB1A38-84C4-418C-97C3-114647DB002E (resized).jpegDEFB1A38-84C4-418C-97C3-114647DB002E (resized).jpeg
#13866 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?

Neither. I found if I watch the ball rolling down to the flipper (from the launch), I can time the shot much better than if I watch the flipper as the ball approaches it. Haven't touched the guides yet, although I'm sure they can be improved a bit (the upper guide is 3/16" away from the upper flipper)

If the ball is coming around with some speed (left ramp or from an upper loop shot) it's much easier to hit the garage with normal timing.

Best combo in pinball currently: right ramp to left ramp (lights mode) to upper loop to garage (light and start dimension) to scoop from portal eject (starts mode).

12
#13867 2 years ago

#748 invoice received!

#13868 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I got my game about 1.5 months ago, and figured Spooky made updates to the ball guides, but it's nearly impossible to hit that garage orbit shot.
Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?
Thanks!

Yeah, read key posts. It's been covered quite a bit. Check how far away from the posts your orbit ends are, or how far past the art they lay. That will give you some idea if moving them will help you at all. I didn't make any changes to mine for about 2 months or so, got a feel for what seemed off, then adjusted one side, played it for another month to see if it made any difference then adjusted the other side. Now it is as smooth as butter. Technically you shouldn't need to do anything to the flipper other than shave the bushings...but I haven't done that yet.

14
#13869 2 years ago

#647 getting delivered tomorrow.

#13870 2 years ago

One more thing, when the targets are down on the horseshoe, and I shoot it into the right opening the ball will loop around and go SDTM 99% of the time.

Guessing this isn't supposed to happen, and might need some adjustment to the guide?

Can anyone share a photo of the guide on their horseshoe.

Thanks!

#13871 2 years ago

I don't have any pics of mine disassembled.

For now you can just enable the ball save on the horseshoe (99% sure that exists)

#13872 2 years ago

Glass felt works wonders on the underside of the top and bottom channels for the glass, fyi. Every time my sub kicks in this was shaking into oblivion. Noticeable difference post install.

#13873 2 years ago
Quoted from Alaskanzen:

Glass felt works wonders on the underside of the top and bottom channels for the glass, fyi. Every time my sub kicks in this was shaking into oblivion. Noticeable difference post install.

The felt I imagine will start to peel over time? I use UHMW tape on all my glass and it helps a lot, is easy to install (and cut) and doesn't get caught in the track at all. Peels off easily too.

https://www.amazon.com/UHMW-TAPE-19-20A-75-18-Adhesive-020-Adhesive-75/dp/B01N4EQ52P/ref=sr_1_6

#13874 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

One more thing, when the targets are down on the horseshoe, and I shoot it into the right opening the ball will loop around and go SDTM 99% of the time.
Guessing this isn't supposed to happen, and might need some adjustment to the guide?
Can anyone share a photo of the guide on their horseshoe.
Thanks!

Maybe you could adjust your playfield pitch

16
#13875 2 years ago

#749 invoice received/paid.

25
#13876 2 years ago

You guys are going to get really sick of me...but I think I fixed another issue with 3D printing. So, as I mentioned a while back...my theory on the flipper bushings is that the entire platform should be dropped roughly an 1/8th. I don't think it makes sense to change standard pinball parts (like bushings) when all that is really needed is a slightly thicker playfield.

So, I developed something I'll call the "X spacer". My goal with this project was to get the flippers into the correct position without forcing people to remove the flippers or deal with any complex disassembly. In testing I have to say it makes a world of difference. I really did not believe that 1/8th of an inch was enough to impact the way that the game plays but holy shit if it isn't a huge improvement.

To install these, you basically need three X spacers (two if you don't care about the upper flipper...but you should ) and 24 #8 5/8 screws. You take all of the screws out of the flipper plate allowing it to lightly hang by the flipper only, then thread the 3D printed part underneath. It is slightly annoying to flex the part around all of the wires and things, but it takes less than five minutes per flipper.

Like my portal protector, I'm planning on dropping the designs for these as soon as I get everything posted. If you're interested in buying them from me, once again I'll work up some kind of price and start shipping them to people in need. I'm currently working on my packing and shipping skills to figure out a way to get stuff to people for as reasonable as possible. Give me a few days on both sharing the file and dropping a price.

If you are interested, go ahead and message me here and I'll tally everything up.

IMG_0431 (resized).JPEGIMG_0431 (resized).JPEGbefore (resized).jpgbefore (resized).jpgafter (resized).jpgafter (resized).jpgflippers (resized).jpgflippers (resized).jpginstalled (resized).jpginstalled (resized).jpg
#13878 2 years ago
Quoted from riggy469:

Are you printing with PLA?

I think he said petg in a prior post.

#13879 2 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

#749 invoice received/paid.

So this is the end.

#13880 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

You guys are going to get really sick of me...but I think I fixed another issue with 3D printing. So, as I mentioned a while back...my theory on the flipper bushings is that the entire platform should be dropped roughly an 1/8th. I don't think it makes sense to change standard pinball parts (like bushings) when all that is really needed is a slightly thicker playfield.
So, I developed something I'll call the "X spacer". My goal with this project was to get the flippers into the correct position without forcing people to remove the flippers or deal with any complex disassembly. In testing I have to say it makes a world of difference. I really did not believe that 1/8th of an inch was enough to impact the way that the game plays but holy shit if it isn't a huge improvement.
To install these, you basically need three X spacers (two if you don't care about the upper flipper...but you should ) and 24 #8 5/8 screws. You take all of the screws out of the flipper plate allowing it to lightly hang by the flipper only, then thread the 3D printed part underneath. It is slightly annoying to flex the part around all of the wires and things, but it takes less than five minutes per flipper.
Like my portal protector, I'm planning on dropping the designs for these as soon as I get everything posted. If you're interested in buying them from me, once again I'll work up some kind of price and start shipping them to people in need. I'm currently working on my packing and shipping skills to figure out a way to get stuff to people for as reasonable as possible. Give me a few days on both sharing the file and dropping a price.
If you are interested, go ahead and message me here and I'll tally everything up.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow...looks great! My neighbor has a printer...I would love to be able to download the file for him to print for me. This seems way easier than changing the bushings.

#13881 2 years ago

I have a Ender 3 at home and a R&M coming tomorrow, so I absolutely thank you and welcome this file.

-1
#13882 2 years ago

great workaround, and I found this very interesting because this topic (flipper adjustment) came up when I was chatting with Stern support in regards to another issue I was having with a ball guide... Long story short if the flippers are too high it will cause the ball to roll glide differently and it affects gameplay...

So there is that, sorry for the unrelated comment ..sort of, but I want to congratulate the maker of this for taking the initiative and trying... and it paid off.

With that said, why are spooky PF thinner than the rest? sorry if that is not the issue, I did not read the rest of the thread.

#13883 2 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

#749 invoice received/paid.

Finish line for Spooky!? Or close enough. Congrats for keeping the schedule in this crazy world.

Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

#13884 2 years ago

So, when the flipper bushings were first brought up, we asked if putting washers in there would help and I swear people said no but I don't remember what the reason was...isn't that essentially the same thing?

#13885 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

So, when the flipper bushings were first brought up, we asked if putting washers in there would help and I swear people said no but I don't remember what the reason was...isn't that essentially the same thing?

I think moving the bushing only will cause binding. When you move the entire bracket, everything stays in the right places.

#13886 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

With that said, why are spooky PF thinner than the rest? sorry if that is not the issue, I did not read the rest of the thread.

I believe the better quality wood they sourced is unfortunately slightly thinner.

R&M is measuring 12mm (just slightly under 1/2")
Williams space shuttle is measuring 13mm (slightly over 1/2")
My Stern Jurassic park is measuring 13.5mm (far over 1/2")

#13887 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I believe the better quality wood they sourced is unfortunately slightly thinner.
R&M is measuring 12mm (just slightly under 1/2")
Williams space shuttle is measuring 13mm (slightly over 1/2")
My Stern Jurassic park is measuring 13.5mm (far over 1/2")

Same number of layers, or was one eliminated?

#13888 2 years ago

Of all the Mortys you can play as.. is Evil Morty one of them? If not, would be cool to get him as a playable Morty. Could be a secret hidden Morty and the only way to choose to play as him would be some button combo like hold down the magna save button while starting a new game or something.

#13889 2 years ago
Quoted from riggy469:

Are you printing with PLA?

I am printing these with PETG. It seemed like a pretty good fit for the application where I don't really want any possibility of "squeeze".

#13890 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

So, when the flipper bushings were first brought up, we asked if putting washers in there would help and I swear people said no but I don't remember what the reason was...isn't that essentially the same thing?

I thought about the exact same thing. I opted to do this for three reasons: 1) Easier to install vs. dicking around with a stack of washers while trying to tighten the screws. 2) Full coverage of the contact surface, hence maximum stability. 3) The screw holes are close together and I couldn't find an ideal sized washer to either wrap both or cover each screw separately.

#13891 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I thought about the exact same thing. I opted to do this for three reasons: 1) Easier to install vs. dicking around with a stack of washers while trying to tighten the screws. 2) Full coverage of the contact surface, hence maximum stability. 3) The screw holes are close together and I couldn't find an ideal sized washer to either wrap both or cover each screw separately.

Anytime I have the option of not searching for a washer/screw/nut when it slips out of my hands 22 times when doing repairs....ā€itā€™s not stuck to the cab speaker, I checked it 4 times. Where the hell did it go?!ā€ Iā€™m totally in. Seriously, how did it end up 30 ft away from the game? Not sure if this crossed your mind when designing but thank you

#13892 2 years ago

Working on trying to dial the upper flipper shits in tonight, I unscrewed the first screw of the ball rail, shift it back a bit, and retightened.

Then I moved the flipper out a bit (it was almost tucked under the plastic). The rail isn't flush with the flipper though.

I played a few games and right away noticed a smoother shot to the inner loop (hit my first 3x loop).

But the garage shot just isn't going. Here's a video of me taking a few shots. The second shot is way off, bit the others look like they should make it, but they brick:

Also, see attached pic. Looks like the cabinet leg bracket either wasn't installed properly, or it's pulling out.

Any thoughts on what I should do?

PXL_20210526_060747126 (resized).jpgPXL_20210526_060747126 (resized).jpg
15
#13893 2 years ago

As promised...here is the spacer if you wish to print one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4869750.

If you wish to buy them from me I'm going to offer two options:

1) $45 gets you all three spacers and 24 of the 5/8th inch screws
2) $40 gets you all three spacers

Why the difference you ask? Well...the screws are stupid expensive! I bought a box of 100 for $15 and they are sold out everywhere I can find them. Also, they add a lot of weight which will make the mailing slightly more expensive.

Why isn't there a two spacer option? Seriously...don't do it...I cannot believe how much better the game is! Just get three because I'm going to charge the same regardless.

Lastly, for anyone who feels so inclined to tell me I'm "ripping people off" with my prices let me remind you I absolutely don't give a fuck. I did this because I love pinball and enjoy most of the players (except for you). It may cost $0.37 to print something but don't forget the hours of print time, electricity, maintenance, packing, shipping, and at least this many experiments (example picture) plus designing and testing. On top of all of that...I'm giving my designs away for non-commercial use! So let's just agree to disagree on the numbers I came up with...cool?

Awesome...now I'll ping everyone who PM'ed me. I should be able to start shipping these next week...I just need some envelopes and time to print them.

IMG_0438 (resized).jpegIMG_0438 (resized).jpeg

#13894 2 years ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Anytime I have the option of not searching for a washer/screw/nut when it slips out of my hands 22 times when doing repairs....ā€itā€™s not stuck to the cab speaker, I checked it 4 times. Where the hell did it go?!ā€ Iā€™m totally in. Seriously, how did it end up 30 ft away from the game? Not sure if this crossed your mind when designing but thank you

OMG I know! I swear there is a screw hiding in my R&M right now! I dropped it and I have no f'ing idea where it went.

#13895 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Also, see attached pic. Looks like the cabinet leg bracket either wasn't installed properly, or it's pulling out.
Any thoughts on what I should do?
[quoted image]

Yeah, um. That leg bracket is a huge fail. No idea how that made it out of Spooky.

I'd contact Spooky and ask for another one.

This thread is for replacing Stern/Spike crappy stock leg brackets (which have improved a little since this thread), but will give you enough info to make the swap since lots of the info still applies:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reinforcing-stern-cabinet-legs-step-by-step

#13896 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Working on trying to dial the upper flipper shits in tonight, I unscrewed the first screw of the ball rail, shift it back a bit, and retightened.
Then I moved the flipper out a bit (it was almost tucked under the plastic). The rail isn't flush with the flipper though.
I played a few games and right away noticed a smoother shot to the inner loop (hit my first 3x loop).
But the garage shot just isn't going. Here's a video of me taking a few shots. The second shot is way off, bit the others look like they should make it, but they brick:

Also, see attached pic. Looks like the cabinet leg bracket either wasn't installed properly, or it's pulling out.
Any thoughts on what I should do?
[quoted image]

I know this seems like some kind of marketing post right after I spammed out the details on my bracket, but absolutely lower your flippers. I cannot guarantee it will solve it but that shot is so much better for me now!

As for the cabinet issueā€¦ughh. I am confident it can be repaired and Spooky will help you. They are really good with this stuff.

#13897 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

As promised...here is the spacer if you wish to print one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4869750.
If you wish to buy them from me I'm going to offer two options:
1) $45 gets you all three spacers and 24 of the 5/8th inch screws
2) $40 gets you all three spacers
Why the difference you ask? Well...the screws are stupid expensive! I bought a box of 100 for $15 and they are sold out everywhere I can find them. Also, they add a lot of weight which will make the mailing slightly more expensive.
Why isn't there a two spacer option? Seriously...don't do it...I cannot believe how much better the game is! Just get three because I'm going to charge the same regardless.
Lastly, for anyone who feels so inclined to tell me I'm "ripping people off" with my prices let me remind you I absolutely don't give a fuck. I did this because I love pinball and enjoy most of the players (except for you). It may cost $0.37 to print something but don't forget the hours of print time, electricity, maintenance, packing, shipping, and at least this many experiments (example picture) plus designing and testing. On top of all of that...I'm giving my designs away for non-commercial use! So let's just agree to disagree on the numbers I came up with...cool?
Awesome...now I'll ping everyone who PM'ed me. I should be able to start shipping these next week...I just need some envelopes and time to print them.
[quoted image]

Couldnā€™t Spooky maybe buy these from you and send them out to all owners? Itā€™s been over 5 months since they identified the problem and promised that a revised bushings would be sent to all owners....

#13898 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Any thoughts on what I should do?

Seriously - whack it in a vice or something and straighten it.

Not ideal, but for 5 minutes work Iā€™m sure you can sort it out, pretty stress free.

rd

29
#13899 2 years ago

Flipper bushings.... still waiting for the manufacturer of these to get them corrected properly. They sent a new sample but Scott said they weren't any better .....so they had to start all over again with the re tooling. Right now it's a waiting game ..again... on the people that make this part.

#13900 2 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

I have a bunch of Cliffy sleeves in Pukekohe.
Iā€™d have to check in the weekend what colours I have left ...
rd

Oh my i thought at first it was auto correct, then I realized not XD funny area name!

Quoted from SpookyKT:

Flipper bushings.... still waiting for the manufacturer of these to get them corrected properly. They sent a new sample but Scott said they weren't any better .....so they had to start all over again with the re tooling. Right now it's a waiting game ..again... on the people that make this part.

Thank you for the update!

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