Nice! I’d be interested in sending you a fee bucks for one if you’re willing to pop it in the USPS to Canada for me.

Oh, oh, oh....
I want one.
Would you pretty, pretty please make me one?

Are you doing tournaments again yet at the brew pub?
Would give me an extra reason to drive down that way

First thing that I thought of when I saw the lip sitting over the bezel. Otherwise this looks like a nice alternative, as I actually like the appearance better than the metal version.

Yep, I'm not knocking the Mantis protector at all. Based on my experience with Cirqus Voltaire the part of the hole that got smashed was the very edge (hence my design). That said, there is no competition as I'm not trying to sell these. If you like the Mantis version, buy that one!

OK, here are the details for the 3D printed hole protector. I'm not sure the Thingiverse link shows the pictures yet...but you guys get the idea from this thread: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866580

If you're interested in tinkering with the design, you can do that here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/40d82f709df95a983374ad60/w/dbaf121b6e644678ccd4d89e/e/a8652334283867e38030c7f9.

Make sure that you read my instructions in the Thingiverse if you print it. I'm not responsible for anything that could possibly go wrong from installing it or using it . Also, I would love any feedback about how it holds up for others people.

As for the PMs on selling it...I wasn't planning on selling it, but I could work up some numbers around the material cost, time and shipping. I honestly think shipping would be the most expensive part of it...but I might even be able to get away with just a padded envelope. Give me a few days and I can work up some kind of number that is both worth my time and not insane for the buyers.

Last thing I'll mention. I've got another 3D print solution that I'm testing. I have some friends coming over tonight to put it through the paces. If it works out, I'll drop that one tomorrow and maybe then there would be a reason to sell both parts together. I appreciate all the positive comments. I've never designed something for a pinball machine before and this is pretty cool .

Still having the issue where if I'm in a 10+ game, the right flipper fades to the point it's impossible to make the left ramp from the cradle position.

The temperature after about 10-15 minutes was about 185F.

Then I tried cranking the flipper power to 4, and it shot up to this!

I've rebuilt the flippers twice, then did a full assembly swap, and same issue.

I'm planning to order the PinkMonk fans, but in the interim, I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

Thanks!

PXL_20210523_042338520 (resized).jpg

Yea I have the metal one and I will admit, I'm not exactly clear on what it actually protects. My clear seems fine, but the ridge of that metal circle is halfway down the hole. I would assume the cracking/chipping would be at the upper edge...

Honestly don't think a 3D printed ring is going to hold up on balls running through there though long term.

More power will increase the temps. More power makes more residual heat which creates more electrical resistance which makes it harder to do the same work to maintain the same flipper power, which creates more heat, which creates more electrical resistance, etc, etc, etc. As the resistance increases the heat goes up.

The only way to break that cycle and solve the problem is to have external cooling to move radiating heat away from the coils. It's just science. You can reduce the power to the flippers which slows the heat progression, but you still end up with fade.

We don't currently sell a pop bumper LED board. The one in R&M isn't from us. I think it's a PBL board.

We do have a bunch of LED boards on our site... all of which we use in our P3 games, but the only boards used in R&M from us are the P3-ROC, PD-16, SW-16, and PD-LED.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

.

The original prototype that I made, and posted a drawing of with dimensions, left the metal ring top edge about 1/32" higher than the lower bevel edge around the top opening of the playfield hole. This means that the ball can no longer touch the playfield hole wood at all, between the protector ring and the ball guide around the portal hole. The ball can not reach the wood at the impact zone on the left. I suppose there are ball guide variances as well though for different copies.

The reason I made it is that the left side of the portal, around the top bevel, was getting pounded and the clear was curling off.

Possibly the extra height that I designed it with is the reason I had to update and make a cutout for the gutter coming from the right orbit. I was getting hangups there that needed the glass removed for any slow moving ball. I removed the protector after marking in place with the house off, and made the alteration. No hangups any more, and hole still fully protected.

I suppose no hangups on the mantis production version because the ring is so much shorter then?

Does it still protect the wood top edge?

I eliminated unwanted jump across issues and rejects as well by a piece of sticky High Density foam (1/2" square block) stuck to the "ceiling of the cellar", underside of the garage floor in the middle. This makes the ball tend more downward as it covers the portal void and has solved basically all stray portal shots.

I was able to get about 100 balls played with the 3D printed protector tonight. It got a crack on the left side. Same spot razorsedge just talked about. I'm modifying the design to try and take a little bit of extra impact.

Based on the testing tonight, I'm pretty confident that it will work. I might need to lower the print resolution to .1 in order to make something that is really strong around that edge but overall I'm still pretty happy with it. Even the crack has failed to spider out and I drilled that shot 20-30 times. My guess is that the challenge will come from what is behind the plastic. In order for this thing to work, it needs the wood/clear behind it to be pretty uniform. I won't be able to map to the dimensions of every game.

Even with the crack it does the job, it just doesn't look as cool. I'll test my second version tomorrow and report back. I just wanted to post in case anyone has tried to make one.

VERY interested in doing this. This is the last ‘tweak’ my machine needs.

What replacement switch did you go with?

Yes, when I got my game the "soft" feel of the right flipper switch drove me nuts. I tried a bunch of things (disc, homemade stiffer plastic extender) but in the end it was the "zip tie" fix that really made the switch feel the same as other flipper buttons.

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/153#post-5962051

I tried the zip-tie but it seems more like a bandaid. Then I soldered an additional leaf to lengthen the long throw to the flipper button but it’s still weird and not staging correctly.

Thinking about buying a R&M but a buddy who has is said the code is still incomplete, like the wizard mode is about picking a mode you've already played. I've never owned a spooky. Like to hear from you if you think the code is close to finished. As well, do they continue to code long after sales are finished?

Yes, buy my metal one
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839

Well it's a hack I suppose, but it gives me the flipper button feel I'm looking for. I have no issues with my flipper staging either, but I've have my switch stack apart like 3 times trying different things over time, so not really too sure how close to "stock" it is anymore.

Spooky should really hire me to play one of their early production games for awhile and give them notes on the "details" that matter that they seem to miss for some reason.

The code is great. Impossible to comment on "completeness" since it's subjective.

It's false that the wizard mode is about picking a mode you've already played. Love Potion #9 is a deep mode that is preselected by the wizard mode and isn't available until you fill up the card.

None of us know the future, so speculating on what code will be done "long after sales are finished" is also hard to comment on.

Here you go:

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

Right now, I have a plastic washer glued to the clear blade, otherwise, I can't get it to flip both flippers.

I'm hoping that the replacement switch will work better.

Does anyone know what gauge of wire the flipper switches use?

The wires going to my switch have almost no slack, so I figured I'd solder some wires to it on the bench, then just Western Union splice it to the existing wires in the cabinet.

Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback. I understand we dont know the future...but, has spooky continued to work on their other titles, updating, improving the code?

Thanks for the link.

My wires are pretty short too. Since the flipper button wires don’t carry much current, anything close to stock gauge should work fine.

The code updates on ACNC have slowed down quite a bit now, but they were still putting out code for a while into the R&M run. Although, the ACNC code feels just about finished as is now, so not sure how many more code updates there might be left.

The code on this R&M is fantastic even in its current revision it does not disappoint. Rick potion number 9 is the wizard mode for now and is only obtained by completing the adventure card. The assets in code sound and call outs are one of the best in all of pinball.

Agreed.

Set your adventure card to start at '0'.
Don't increase your Ball Saves from factory settings.

...and this machine has a wizard mode you won't see for quite some time.

Yes.

100%

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I have a line on a machine now, so am in the position to buy. I also know a couple of people who have owned and sold, one saying the build doesnt even compare to a Stern Pro. I cant say since Ive never seen one or played one, but reviews here look pretty impressive, although there is the standard hype and honeymoon period that sees most machines get great ratings, but then settle into their rightful place 18 months or so later. I like harder machines, JP is kicking my butt, but I love it because when I have a good game, I know I earned it. I understand R&M can be challenging and for some that is downer, but for me its a plus...

I have a Iron Maiden premium, and I’ll say the R&M is a damn good build. Playfield looks amazing, sound system is awesome.

build quality on R&M is excellent. it's has it's small issues, just like every new stern and JJP does (i work for a distributor). there are plenty of fixes out there if you need them.

code is good. if the game is too hard for anybody, lower the rear levelers and tweak the game settings to your liking.

spooky just released updated code (may 18). nothing really added to the game, just some tweaks and issues in the background fixed.

every game on earth can be made easier or harder. i will never understand someone selling a game because "it's easy to beat" or "it's impossible to play"

With all due respect to my FLiPs buddy, saying the build quality on R&M is excellent is a stretch. I don't doubt you may have lucked out, but as this thread clearly shows, there have been a lot of build issues for many of us. I've owned 70+ games. R&M is my first Spooky game, and it has taken a lot of effort to dial-in.

Out of 70+ games, it's probably in my top 2 in terms of NIB dialing-in effort (Dialed In being the other problem child). None of my Sterns have required anywhere near the effort of R&M or DILE.

Sure, maybe some of the tweaks aren't absolutely essential, but the game just didn't play all that well out-of-the-box for many of us. Flipper issues, stuck diverters, ball guides out-of-whack, shooter wire forms, VUK needed lowering, pop bumper ring breakage, etc.

Worth mentioning the game has great "bones" (PF, cabinet, back glass, etc.), but the build itself could have been a lot sharper.

My wires are really tight as well...evidently a common problem.

You don't say?

OH WAIT, you have......like 40 times.

If it isn't obvious, I wasn't replying to you! I was replying to Chris/youdontknowme, who recently received his game and has 1 post in this thread! (and I'm pretty sure doesn't have the time to wade through 14,000 posts). Really easy to ignore without a childish, snarky comment...

You are thinking of the hours it took him to dial it in.
He's said as much at least 100 times.

...also, he's played in several tournaments.

Anyone have this music issue: I’ve had this happen in Scary Terry and Pickle Rick where there was no real background music but just a constant chord being held, like an organ. After the adventure ends the music goes back to normal.

In case anyone still doesn't know, go to the top of the thread and click Show Index and you can see the 74 posts that should be on your must read list. These include fixes and official statements from Charlie (Owner), Luke (Support), Scott Danesi (Designer) and Eric Priepke (Coder).

No one wants to read 14,000 posts. Especially when at least 1K of those posts are owners bickering about opinions.

Keyposts y'all (resized).png

Oh no...you must not be in the Mando thread. lol.

Whats going on in the mando thread?

stupid debate about if you call them developers or coders.

Yeah, I’m going to kick up Multiball Monday maybe as soon as next week. I need to get my Oktoberfest working and it is being a bit of an ass at the moment.

As for the hole protector, I’m testing a new design and I’ll hook everyone up ASAP. I think it just needs a little more or a little less plastic to withstand the harder shots. I think I am pretty close to a good solution.

What are you using for filament? Maybe using some Ninjaflex so the part is a little spongy would absorb impacts instead of cracking/breaking.

I was going to suggest along the same lines; try TPU filament. You may not find the exact color you want, but it will never crack. Generic TPU is cheaper and easier to print than ninjaflex. If I get a chance to play around with it, I have some black TPU to try out.

I installed a much longer right button cabinet switch in the end, from an old SEGA Star Wars Trilogy cabinet I had here. Works great!

Yeah, I am using PETG because I didn’t want to pass the impact to the wood. TPU would probably work if it is thick enough. The negative would be that it might slip out of the hole since I am relying on the pressure fit to keep it in place. If anyone else prints it with a different material let me know.

I have another update on the 3D print portal protector. I've modified the design and added what I shall refer to as the "love hump". After making the modification I manually threw 100 balls at it from each direction. I'm pretty confident that this will prevent any sort of cracking in the plastic but I can't guarantee anything as I only have one game to test on. That said, I really slammed it. I cannot imagine a ball traveling faster then I was throwing it with my hands.

So...that brings me to my next item...expanded testing. I have had a lot of people message me asking if they could buy one of these. As I've said, I didn't expect to sell it (hence my posting of the files) but I understand that not everyone has a 3D printer or even if they do, they might not want to hassle with the material and post production process. As such, I've decided I could go ahead and try to sell it.

Since I would like more testing before I start cranking them out, I'm going to sell 10 then collect feedback. In the event that you buy one and it breaks, I will work with you to understand what happened then possibly revise the design. I'll send you another one for the cost of shipping only.

As for price, the first 10 will be $40 each. That includes cost of materials, cost of manufacture (time and maintenance), finishing work (sanding smoothing), packing & shipping (roughly $8), and my time. Assuming everything goes well, I'll set a final price and perhaps list them on a Pinside shop. Excuse me while I wade into the world of mod creation.

Lastly, because this is the internet I have to say if you don't like the price, prefer the less expensive Mantis hole protector, or have any other complaints...don't buy one! I've given away the design for free and explained exactly how to make them. I simply want to help people and I'm not looking to get into some kind of debate about how my design or material choice is shit or how I should loose money on each ring because that helps everyone .

For now: if you are interested, hit me up with a Pinside PM. I already have the first 10 but I may be able to expand that fairly rapidly depending on people's schedules and their ability to test.

Screenshot 2021-05-24 100743 (resized).png

I'm watching the show Dummy for something stupid to watch....I had no idea it had a big connection to R&M. At first I thought it was just a coincidence, and then later they flat out tell you.

590 standard has arrived

20210524_130714 (resized).jpg

Nice call thanks! One wire was broken off (grey)
I did a visual inspection on it the other day but still missed the broken wire. Repaired ASAP here I’m sure.

image (resized).jpg