My factory wireform worked flawlessly.

I replaced it with the PBL, because why not?

...but never had an issue here.

As someone who is getting his R&M delivered Wednesday, can someone link to or explain the wireform issue?

I have the new wireform and it was a huge improvement for me. Not only does it deliver flawlessly, I can pump up the power for a much faster delivery, nice for when I am getting saved a lot, which is every game.

The stock wireform is basically an under-built, poorly designed piece-of-junk. It's supposed to stop the ball after it leaves the shooter lane and drop it in front of the upper right flipper. My experience is that the ball with either shoot past the end of it and around the right loop, or bounce off the end of it and back down into the shooter lane more often than not. It requires finicky manual adjustment, and never stays working 100% for very long.

The new wireform solves this 100% by resembling an actual part engineered for a pinball machine.

However, others have not reported any issues, so you might as well wait and see how your game plays in this regard.

It's a key post. Here you go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/20#post-5492610

You really shouldn't have to worry about it since the adjustment has worked for most of us and is real simple. I'm happy with my stock wireform. If an improved part was available, I'd get it (but it's not, apparently). Why it was pulled is a mystery.

That reminds me.... for those with 3D printers, I finally uploaded my launch fix to thingiverse. It's an alternative to the updated wireform.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/247#post-6223596
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4865438

My first test piece has held up just fine after hundreds of launches. I'll take some videos and create a new thread. I found some purple sparkly filament that as an added bonus glows in the dark haha.

Pretty sure it was put on the shelf until all of the Rick and Mortys have been built and shipped.

Mostly because some were intimating that the 'improved' version should have been used going forward.

No knowledge of this per se...but that looks to be the way it shook out.

First time getting this one.....

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Also, my factory wireform for shooter lane was defective, absolutely worked on it tirelessly for months and months. THe PBL replacement new one is a dream.

I’ll see how mine is once I get it, and print this on my Ender if need be. Thanks for posting it!

After waiting 18 months and reading every post in this thread, 724 has arrived! Ordered on day one, direct from Spooky. Now I gotta wait a couple hours for help getting it inside, so anxious

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Had two issues with my stock ball launch wire form:

1. It was pressing / torquing very hard against a connector (see photo). Every ball launch was jolting that connector and could have (eventually) caused some issues with the connector pins or even a cracked solder joint on that PCB. I quickly zipped off the end of the wireform with a dremel cutting wheel.

2. The wireform ends are not pulled snug enough against the playfield (see wireform bend as it comes out of playfield in the photo). There is a lot of play here and I wonder if this was another unforeseen issue with the thinner playfields. It really looks (to me) like this wireform was bent with a thicker playfield in mind.
FYI, my wireform would start climbing upwards (which caused some issues with ball launches) but it has since settled down. If you can get your wireform to "stay down" you will be rewarded by more consistent ball launches.

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Bug in the new code....

Just finished MoonMen. Loaded up both locks. Death save to scoop (multi-ball lit). Then nothing but the searchlight and a few nice words from Rick. Hard reset.

hey folks, Anyone currently know of a source to buy these other than PBL ?
My pop bumper bulb went out after it was flickering for a few days. I wanted to buy this bulb for my pop and a spare and also thought i'd grab a spare regular board mount rgb led for a couple spares also.

https://www.pinballlife.com/p-roc-rgb-pop-bumper-board-assembly.html

I have a cart loaded up with like $16 in bulb spares, but shipping is $64 usd for fuck sakes. I asked nicely to PBL if there was an alternate shipping option like tossing these in an envelope and the mail and they brushed me off....

Yep , you can buy it at Multimorphic directly
But I think you can repair the led, mine did the same .just remove the plastic washer , re solder
I ve put a bit of glue gun around it too, and it’s fine now , too much vibrations here

Thank you, i'll take a look

PM me if you want to have PBL ship to me (should be about $10) and I can drop ship to you for like $20-$25 or whatever the actual cost is. Should be almost half that cost.

Cliffy protectors showed up today, Here is a pic of them installed (3 piece set). I have about 70 games on mine before I installed them and the wood rail was starting to "feel" a divot. I also never adjusted the coil strength so lowering it should help. If anyone is interested, here is his website.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/protectors.htm

He also may not have them listed yet because I just sent him the pictures. So you may have to email him for the details until he gets them listed on his site.

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586 has arrived! A couple of loose connectors but otherwise perfect!

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I had this issue after leveling the height of my drop targets; I originally leveled them because the ball would hang up on top of the target if it was a soft shot.

I assumed I messed something up so I leveled the drop targets again with the nuts and it went away. It was either the height of the targets were wrong or I was bending something without recognizing it and got lucky on the second try.

#639 in the house! Flippers were so bad it was nearly unplayable. Did the update and that helped, but still not acceptable. The lower right flipper works perfectly, the upper right and lower left don’t fire all the time when you press the button. Any suggestions?

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#725 in the house!

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Sounds like you have to calibrate your EOS switches. The switch should engage right at the end of the flipper stroke.

yeah, I think the cabinet switches were the issue. Adjusted and seems a lot better

Very nice. When I visit next I'll give it a real good look over and play test.

Still kinda feeling special having black flipper bats and seeing all these white flipper bats out of the box. Hugs!

You have the rarest - a R&MBSBLM Edition

Ok need a bit of help here! This is my very first pinball machine!

What do I need to do first? (yes, its upright on legs.. lol)

Thanks for any and all help...

PBL did the same to me (totally brushed me off). I also asked nicely (for a cheaper shipping option) and I let them know that we Canadians are patient and would prefer shipping via USPS. I used to love PBL but they are being total wankers with regards to shipping right now.

Is the upper right flipper supposed to have a pickle Rick decal on it?

You have an upper left flipper?... :p

There is a pickle rick on the playfield under the upper right flipper. You probably saw a mod someone did in a picture.

lol too many beers

Has anyone figured out a clean headphone option yet? I know I can plug my wireless dongle into the amp and I get the signal there, but by plugging in there it doesn't kill the sound from the speakers which I want to do. My master bedroom is right above the arcade, so late night R&M games need to be played with headphones. I have the Kalaxian Crystal coin door and don't want to screw it up.

Would love it if someone were able to make a small component which would have a 3mm input and a volume pot on it, and it can be kept right inside the coin door or even snaked underneath the table and mounted underneath close to the player.

Why don't you buy the headphone coin door setup, but not mount it and lay it inside the coin door?

You could probaby put a y adapter in the computer audio jack, one lead to your headphones, the other to the Amp. Then turnoff the amp when you just want to play with headphones. You’ll have to have a long cable on your headphones or an extension.

This may be the best option...

About to replace the stock right flipper switch with beefier ones, but the lugs are reversed.

Does it matter what order I solder them?

See attached, should I keep the red and grey on the same side, or should the higher lugs be used for red and grey?

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you will be fine just wiring it up. what you want to make sure of, is that the lower flipper fires first, then the upper as you push harder on the button. this will enable you to cradle a ball on the lower flipper while still having control of the upper flipper. i say that it enables you, but it is a much harder skill to actually learn.

So it doesn't matter if the red/grey are on the left or right lugs? Or whether they're on the higher or lower?

Thanks

As long as you keep the pairs the same, it doesn't matter if they're on left or right side. Red/Black and Gray/Black. It's essentially two switches stacked on top of each other. You just want to wire it so when that switch is connected by being pressed together with the flipper button, that circuit is completed.

Pinovators has the kit which works great. I have it for the bill acceptor door, but I know they sell kits as under mounts for WPC games, so I would assume they could do the same for Spooky. Email them and see but the external headphone jack and volume control is great.

So, I'm about 750 balls into the game and I've noticed just a little bit of a rough spot on the portal hole. I'm not a huge fan of the metal protector so I decided to design my own that more or less follows the same pattern I've had on my Cirqus Voltaire for many years. Via some 3D print magic and what I'm now realizing is a great filament I came up with this (pictures). It is a simple snap fit that is designed to lock into the hole with a very tiny "foot" which grips the bottom of the playfield. It takes about 20 minutes to install because you have to remove the house. In testing so far (5 games) it seems to work pretty great. I did get one "lip out" from a fast moving ball in the right orbit but I've also seen that without a protector so I have no way of knowing.

I'm curious to know the thoughts of the community. If this is something people are excited about I could print and ship them as well. I don't think they would be very expensive.

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That green looks pretty sick as in awesome... if you do make more I'd be interested if the plastic proves durable enough.

I'm interested too.
Maybe you can also provide the 3D file for DIY version.

Yeah, my theory is that it is certainly stronger than the clear coated wood. Also I hit a few with a hammer on cement just to validate they could handle some impact. Basically the wall portion will not break whereas the lip portion will chip away. I cannot imagine a ball hitting it at the speed of a hammer. I honestly don’t think a ball could even impact the ridge in such a way that it would chip, but I need many more hours of testing to validate that. I suspect the only way it would be fully tested would be to put a bunch of them out there in the wild.

Yeah, I have no issue providing the file. I’m not looking to make money on it…just help people out. I just need time to upload everything to public spaces.

Anyone have issues adding a shaker/knocker? I have the pbl shaker and knocker but neither work in test. Would like to see a picture of the IDC connectors from the board to the the shaker/knocker breakout to make sure everything is pinned correctly.

Awesome! I was too shy to ask, myself, but I also figured the development cost must have been negligible.

Still, I'd be happy to Paypal you something once it prints okay for me! Or donate to Pinside! Or both!

Now, if someone would design a replacement ship flap we could print...

3D printing is great, who cares if it breaks? Print another! Fiddle with it first if so inclined!

Looking forward to unveiling the thing I 3D printed for my R&M, just need to become an instant expert at painting first!

Anyone still reading who has never tried 3D printing may not realize how cheaply you can get your feet wet. My brand new Ender 3 was like $100. And that was two years ago at least.

Mantis has been doing awesome hole protectors for years that work great. I installed the Mantis for the Portal hole and it was an easy install and plays great.

My feedback on yours is this...since it covers the bezel and looks like it sits above the PF slightly, I'd expect your solution to alter the ball path more than the Mantis protector (which sits below the wood bezel). Sometimes the ball flies up into the garage and it looks like your protector might cause the ball to go airborne.

Yours does look nice and in theory looks easy to install. I'd also be concerned about your protector moving and having to be adjusted every so often.