#710 paid for and shipped yesterday

Same here. Took a few games for me to realize it wasn't working, but once I fixed it, it was fine

#722 in the house! White flippers with black bands, if anyone is wondering. Had a weird issue that the playfield glass went in crooked causing problems locking the lock down bar. But it was resolved. The yellow envelop wasn’t included so Morgan is sending it soon.
The game appears to play without issues but I’ve never played this pin before. Now to play and understand the rules!

What is in the yellow envelope? I don’t think I had one in mine..

Im curious on this as well.

Has anyone tried a different switch for the right side double flipper switch?

My pop bumper has died suddenly. It registers hits, but the coil isn't firing during games or in the coil test. Anything I can do/try aside from asking Spooky to replace it?

I had a similar issue, except the glass was not cut at a clean angle (instead of being straight, it was angled a bit) and wouldnt set correctly into the lock (creating massive bass reverb ....oh the bass). I swapped with an existing piece of glass for the fix. Also, fyi, my bass was cranked to an 11 from the factory......assuming this was an oversight....so i adjusted to perfection

Rarely do pops die. Probably a wire is off the lug so no power to the coil. Check it out

Same here and I was #706.

But you're going to want to shave down your flipper bushings by 1/8" at some point though. They are still using the old incorrect flipper bushings that are too high. This causes the flipper rubber to wear down quicker because its hitting the edge of the rubber instead of the middle. Also, having the flippers at the right height will help ensure better flipper accuracy since its making contact with the ball on the middle of the flipper.

Visually check for a broken/loose wire at the coil lug for that pop bumper. The most-likely cause.

Yup you were right. Wire snapped off the solder point. I guess I'll need to go buy a soldering iron. It was inevitable, really.

Thank you!

All part of the pinball lifestyle.

Maybe it’s only for me but the important thing that supposed to be in the envelope was a sticker signed by the spooky team and an extra set of decals.

Hmm..I didn't get any of that...

I bought extra decals and asked for the team to sign the pin.

I haven’t put much time (just received it today) into RAM but for the little I played I feel it’s a freaking awesome pin! I had to sell my TNA to make room and was hesitant to do so but RAM hits all the buttons for me, more so than TNA. Call outs are spot on, shots are super varied and challenging, etc.. This is my first NIB and I’m sure glad I got in on it.

I know we are crazy far into the builds, but if there is anyone who needs to abandon their slot please let me know. Or if you for some wild reason want to sell (for a hopefully reasonable price?) drop me a line. Just FOMOing for days on this one.

Invest in a nice temperature-controlled soldering station like a weller:

https://www.amazon.ca/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B077JDGY1J

Checked my audit today, and average ball time is 17 seconds hahahahaha!

Curious to know what you guys are getting.

I'm scared to look. I know it isn't high...and even when it is high, it's a lot of bricks. I played for about an hour tonight and it was like I'd never played the game before. Couldn't hit anything with any accuracy except the outlanes.

586 shipped today! Anxiously awaiting arrival.

Is anyone selling bushing that's are already shaved down correctly? I know I could probably try and measure and do by hand but scared it would not be flush

I'm willing to pay as well!

It's crazy because I'll have like 20 terrible games around 1-5 million, then I'll have one 50+ million, rinse, repeat.

I'm hoping when I get my fans that the right flipper will be able to make ramp shots on the longer games.

When your teenage daughter says “I got you something for your birthday, Dad.”

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I fixed my plastic spring for the ship using the extra spooky sent me. I installed the new one keeping the nuts loose as recommended and I lowered the coil pulse. I’ve played 20 games and it is cracking again. This is fucking ridiculous. Someone must have a better idea for this thing.

At one time I was considering R&M or GnR and reading about issues here put me off , as there were a lot of negative issues.

Now though, GnR is off the list as no way would I risk it with the bubbling playfields.

Kudos to Spooky as R&M has one of, if not the best playfield in the business.

Most other QC stuff can be tweaked, but not poor playfields.

Looking forward to Spooky's new game which must be incredibly soon

Aside from the inscrutable choice to suddenly make the playfield physically THINNER for Rick and Morty, I would agree. That's one choice I hope they do a 180 on from the next title onward.

Standard 733 is ready for pickup! on Monday

I heard that Spooky were meant to be supplying these shorter bushes, but that was five months or so ago... !

I do have a extra set that I did shave down 1/8", I will install them sometime tonight or over the weekend. Been waiting to to get the shooter lane Cliffy's protectors, they should be here today.

I have 63 games on mine (1 week old) and mine looks fine. I will probably remove the metal tap/flap thingy on the coil that hits the ship rod if it becomes a problem. I have not noticed it moving anyways since Im more focused on keeping the ball in play. I do have a mold/model maker coming over this weekend to play it and I will see what he thinks. Maybe we can come up with something that will still work and look cool but it will never be like AFM at the current design.

Yep...official post from Spooky/Charlie below. Bummer there has been no update considering all the flipper woes. Oh well.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/182#post-6017299

Ouch! I'll have to check mine.

I'd recommend you increase the ball saver times in the settings (start by doubling them).

Stern's default ball save timers are much more generous than the ones on R&M. Also, the ones on R&M get "used" once your ball has been saved once, which is not how any other company's ball savers work (that I am aware of). I know Scott D. added this to TNA where it made sense to prevent players from exploiting the ball save to launch balls into the reactor over and over, but I do NOT think it's a good general approach to how ball savers should work on other games.

To put this game on location without the ability to guarantee players get min 20s -30s per ball seems unfriendly.

Lower/shorten the rod so it doesn't move as far.

Yesterday I found the little metal rod on the floor of the machine. The metal "loose" piece that makes contact with the rod does not have a centered hole drilled in it, therefore it shifts to the right and after a few firings of the coil, the metal rod often gets stuck on the side of the metal loose piece as it drops past it, and thus stops the coil from firing.

For now, I just removed both from my machine, as adjusting it on the track didn't help. Sent a note over to the service department for a new metal piece there hopefully with a centered hole. Not sure if the hole placement makes a difference on yours but it sure does seem to be messing mine up.

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Can someone tell me where I can get the improved shooter lane wire form?

Thanks

Pinball life had them, but then abruptly stopped selling them...I'd reach out to them and see what the deal is

I'm wondering if we could accomplish the exact same behavior with a flap made out of thin and flexible Vivak or something. If I think about the material used for blister packaging or playfield protectors. That stuff is way more flexible than the plastic being used.

I kept looking at the design of this and wondering if we could just make a pyramid shape that has a lip on the outside. The idea being that the pyramid edge would rest on the playfield until the post pushes it up. Once it gets pushed up the lip would catch the underside of the plastic and make sure that the ship didn't go flying out.

Based on the behavior, I don't really see the need for a "spring" like design. All it needs to do is hold the thing in place until that post knocks it around.

I attached a picture of what I have in my head...not sure if this makes sense to anyone else or not.

R&Midea (resized).png

Email them. Just ask. PBL

You need to email [email protected] directly. He is said to still have them, but they're not listed on the site.

Morty "Reset Target Failure" (3 photos below from test mode). Anyone dealt with this?

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In regards to the upgraded shooter lane wireform, can anyone that has installed them provide any feedback on them? Worth it?

Yeah, I'm planning to try that if/when mine breaks (don't have my machine yet). I have one of @toyotaboy's metal ones to use as a template. Will be very easy to trace and cut flexible blister-pack type material with a hobby knife.

And if that works, then great! And if not, well, I have the metal one

Would anyone that has either made adjustments or had a later build of the games that has said is playing great and flowing well to take any pictures from above of how the rails are positioned and where the flippers are lined up in relation to the holes? Mine (#247) is not playing badly and its a great game but just curious how others are setup in relation to the earlier builds. Might now know how great it can be since I have only played mine.

Absolutely zero issues in over 1500 games. It works perfect every time.

As others have said works great on standard coil settings...drops the ball perfect everytime

Funny, my factory wireform works practically every time... certainly well enough to not waste a Benjamin replacing it.

But if you're one who would rather spend $35 upgrading a switch instead of bending the blade on it... go for it!

Meanwhile, it's getting to where I'll be able to buy another game with the money I've saved not replacing things on R&M!

I had to decrease it to 14, to get it just right but otherwise it's never been an issue. Seems like many have - and I think it's a combination of angle of the pf, coil power settings, and how the wireform ends are bent/formed. I can see how the modded version could fix the issue in most cases without having to dial it in just right for how steep you have your game set up.

My factory wireform was a total PoS, as i clearly indicated in a ranty post awhile back. There was nothing I could do to keep it working for long. So HAPPY to have the improved wireform from PBL! Best $50 I ever spent.

I have a friend with a R&M that claims his factory works perfectly, so I dunno.