Kellogg, IA
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(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from metallik:Just to put this in context, the game he played was mine, and I have done *zero* dialing-in except grinding down a rivet on the right ramp (causing airballs), aligning the flippers to the inlanes and installing the latest code with all defaults for flipper settings. What he noticed are the differences between a build in the 80s vs a build in mid 300s (mine).
We played all night, to the point we went from a clean playfield to visible balltrails even on the trap position. NO flipper collapse except for one point-blank pop slam into left flipper, and it recovered immediately. Left ramp was always makeable from a trap, and I'm not even running fans. Set a new GC (beat my buddy's old GC by 600K)
I still have a few tweaks to do to the upper area (diverter and UR corner switches) but I'm really happy with how it plays now.
Theses statements are interesting because my build was mid 300’s and it also played very well out of the box. No real issues. The one thing I did immediately to mine was the right flipper button repair but i did my own version with some small zip ties instead of the No Fear disk. Never had another issue with that after.
So I wonder if those machines (mid 300’s) were just put together really well? 
Quoted from Eric_S:Where are you moving to? I've gotten to be quite the expert at moving over the past year.
I'm bummed that we didn't get to hang out during your brief stint in the Madison area.
Right now we are just doing a 7 month rental down the street while we build our new home in the Sauk City area. I only jave 3 games setup and R&M is one of them. Moving sucks but ill eventually have a dedicated gameroom with more room for pins.
Quoted from Rum-Z:The best I've done was 11 million plus, and I was amazed at that. I stacked it with multiball, got the multipliers up, and made all of the shots at least once. I don't know how you pulled 25 million plus out of it. That is bonkers! Congrats though.
I have no idea either. I know that I hit the full series of shots and a few extras beyond that and then I heard the replay sound and looked up at the score and was like holy crap!
Quoted from RobT:Chuck, I love my SThLE probably about as much as you do.
But it ain’t no R&M!
They all have their place in the pinball game of life. And R&M is no GOT or TWD!! 
Quoted from metallik:Just to put this in context, the game he played was mine, and I have done *zero* dialing-in except grinding down a rivet on the right ramp (causing airballs), aligning the flippers to the inlanes and installing the latest code with all defaults for flipper settings.
These may seem like nothing, but imagine all that stuff not working right especially the flippers. I think you would’ve sold it by now.
But yeah, all games are gonna need some tweaking. This game with the tough tight shots, without it playing smooth, it’s too frustrating.
Quoted from metallik:I don't doubt mine can be tweaked to play even more smoothly, just saying the tweaks aren't absolutely necessary to enjoy the game. I've got a list of adjustments I plan on making at some point...
And that's what I'm pointing out. People say 'see, didn't need to do anything!' alluding to others being crazy that they tweaked theirs. It just isn't the case. There's a wide variance of how these things were put together. What you might see without tweaks isn't necessarily what anyone else sees without tweaks as your might be closer to what it is supposed to be already. That's been pretty widely catalogued in this thread. The issue is we've never been told exactly how the orbits for example are supposed to be aligned. We just 'assume' they should follow the art closer, and it certainly seems to play better if they do. If they are off, it just makes a hard game even harder for no reason.
Random thought… I wonder if Rick and Morty’s Moonmen were somehow inspired by the Finnish Moomin?
https://www.moomin.com/en/
’Rick and Morty’ Composer Ryan Elder on How to Write a David Bowie Song For a Fart
https://www.indiewire.com/2017/09/rick-and-morty-composer-david-bowie-fart-1201877820/
Quoted from Zablon:And that's what I'm pointing out. People say 'see, didn't need to do anything!' alluding to others being crazy that they tweaked theirs. It just isn't the case. There's a wide variance of how these things were put together. What you might see without tweaks isn't necessarily what anyone else sees without tweaks as your might be closer to what it is supposed to be already. That's been pretty widely catalogued in this thread. The issue is we've never been told exactly how the orbits for example are supposed to be aligned. We just 'assume' they should follow the art closer, and it certainly seems to play better if they do. If they are off, it just makes a hard game even harder for no reason.
My guides were tweaked (by me) to deviate from the art in several areas. A simple example is the guide above the upper flipper. Pushing it "back" to align with the flipper DOESN'T align with the art, but it's way better.
Quoted from astroroxy:Anyone else have an issue with the Jerry dimension on the latest beta? Everything after that all the shots say looking good, or slow down, even when it's on the next player and they are out of the dimension.
Yes, it is documented now on the bugs list.
Quoted from snaroff:My guides were tweaked (by me) to deviate from the art in several areas. A simple example is the guide above the upper flipper. Pushing it "back" to align with the flipper DOESN'T align with the art, but it's way better.
My upper flipper may not follow the art exactly, don't remember, but my left orbits do as close as I could get them. (before they were way off).
Don't presume the art is in exactly the same place on every playfield.
Now, I don't know that it isn't for a fact, but it sure would explain quite a bit.
There must be an allowed tolerance, in manufacturing there is no such thing as perfect.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Don't presume the art is in exactly the same place on every playfield.
Now, I don't know that it isn't for a fact, but it sure would explain quite a bit.
There must be an allowed tolerance, in manufacturing there is no such thing as perfect.
Very possible, however those are machine done right? whereas the parts were put on by hand. I agree, there may be a bit of variance, but I doubt it is as much as the actual parts.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Just discovered this gem.
Wow! How do you get to that mode? New code?
Quoted from TigerLaw:Wow! How do you get to that mode? New code?
Hold the start button down after a bad ball one.
I was going to suggest this, feeding flipper coils constant current instead of a fixed voltage, but I searched first and was disappointed to see it was proposed three years ago (in another Spooky thread!) since apparently it was subsequently ignored when it could have been incorporated into R&M:
Quoted from mamawaldee:Flipper force, like any magnetically derived force, is dependent on current, not voltage. If you can maintain the coil temperature, flipper power will approximately track with voltage. As the flipper coils heat up with constant use, resistance increases, current decreases, and force will decrease.
This problem will exist until somebody begins using closed loop current control on the flippers, the same way you control torque with motors.
You implement closed loop coil current control, and feed the coil rail with a SMPS that can provide the required current at low line voltage, and this lack-of-force problem can theoretically be eliminated. Only true mechanical wear will remain.
The idea being that you start with an oversized coil that will still be strong enough when hot. Then the system simply forces the chosen current through it (when you flip, of course), by lowering the activation voltage when it's cool and raising it as temperature increases. (It doesn't need to monitor the temp, though, it just keeps the current constant.) I would imagine it takes longer to heat up too, since you're not blasting it with the full voltage while it's cool.
Next game, perhaps? (A retrofit solution would rock, though! Aftermarket geniuses, put on your thinking caps!)
This article I found is what got me thinking about it:
https://www.electronicdesign.com/power-management/article/21805436/use-current-to-drive-solenoid-relay-from-array-of-voltages
Quoted from marspinball:Anyone have any issues installing the mantis garage protector? It won't slide into place. It's just a hair too large. I don't want to damage the clear and don't want to use any more force than necessary.
Any suggestions?
Did you have any luck getting it in? Mine's not sliding in easily (getting stuck on the clear in the whole I think) and I also don't want to damage anything.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:I was going to suggest this, feeding flipper coils constant current instead of a fixed voltage, but I searched first and was disappointed to see it was proposed three years ago (in another Spooky thread!) since apparently it was subsequently ignored when it could have been incorporated into R&M:
The idea being that you start with an oversized coil that will still be strong enough when hot. Then the system simply forces the chosen current through it (when you flip, of course), by lowering the activation voltage when it's cool and raising it as temperature increases. (It doesn't need to monitor the temp, though, it just keeps the current constant.) I would imagine it takes longer to heat up too, since you're not blasting it with the full voltage while it's cool.
Next game, perhaps? (A retrofit solution would rock, though! Aftermarket geniuses, put on your thinking caps!)
This article I found is what got me thinking about it:
https://www.electronicdesign.com/power-management/article/21805436/use-current-to-drive-solenoid-relay-from-array-of-voltages
Multimorphic is the one you need to be lobbying with this idea (though I don't think it would really be better IRL). They make the P-ROC hardware. Spooky and American, etc are limited by the limits of that hardware. They therefore can't re-write low-level hardware timing and execution rules at will. However with the new Ben Heck board on the next machine (or YOUR homebrew, the licensing is DIRT CHEAP, if you haven't heard) maybe he has/could put that option in.
EDIT: Skimming the article, the PWM they recommend Spooky and Stern are definitely already doing for coil management on holds.
Coaticook, QC
Quoted from fnord:Did you have any luck getting it in? Mine's not sliding in easily (getting stuck on the clear in the whole I think) and I also don't want to damage anything.
My protector was also a bit hard to fit, I gave a couple of light taps with my screwdriver handle and it fit into place without damaging the clear
737 (standard) paid; I thought it was never going to happen. 
Decided to run it at a friend's arcade for a bit as I'm going to be moving soon and it'll be fun to share with my friends + the community; things are finally feeling a bit more normal here in Portland. I know the general consensus is to play the game and then go from there, but is there anything preventative I should do in this case to make sure the game doesn't turn into a big headache for the location owner? Right now I was just planning on mylar around the flipper buttons (cause the cabinet decals seem to wear out incredibly fast...) and letting 'er ride.
Just a little concerned at the amount of grinding/welding/drilling going on in this thread, this late in production... but still very excited.
edit: does anyone have a picture of the decal wear on a routed BSE (in the holes of the portal lollipops)? just realized no mylar is available with a hole cut for the magnasave button... I'm debating skipping it, but don't want to end up with a bare white cabinet.
Quoted from PinMonk:Multimorphic is the one you need to be lobbying with this idea (though I don't think it would really be better IRL). They make the P-ROC hardware. Spooky and American, etc are limited by the limits of that hardware. They therefore can't re-write low-level hardware timing and execution rules at will. However with the new Ben Heck board on the next machine (or YOUR homebrew, the licensing is DIRT CHEAP, if you haven't heard) maybe he has/could put that option in.
EDIT: Skimming the article, the PWM they recommend Spooky and Stern are definitely already doing for coil management on holds.
Ben Heck is licensing his boards for home brews? Well that's interesting...
Quoted from JohnDeere:Ben Heck is licensing his boards for home brews? Well that's interesting...
Maybe benheck will jump in to clarify, but it seemed like he was looking to license his new board set debuting with the next Spooky machine to anyone and everyone that wants to make a deal to use it. Because, if you haven't heard...IT'S DIRT CHEAP to license.
Quoted from nogoodnames222:737 (standard) paid; I thought it was never going to happen.
Decided to run it at a friend's arcade for a bit as I'm going to be moving soon and it'll be fun to share with my friends + the community; things are finally feeling a bit more normal here in Portland. I know the general consensus is to play the game and then go from there, but is there anything preventative I should do in this case to make sure the game doesn't turn into a big headache for the location owner? Right now I was just planning on mylar around the flipper buttons (cause the cabinet decals seem to wear out incredibly fast...) and letting 'er ride.
Just a little concerned at the amount of grinding/welding/drilling going on in this thread, this late in production... but still very excited.
edit: does anyone have a picture of the decal wear on a routed BSE (in the holes of the portal lollipops)? just realized no mylar is available with a hole cut for the magnasave button... I'm debating skipping it, but don't want to end up with a bare white cabinet.
I have standard #192 with approx 1200 plays, no sign of wear around buttons. What I have noticed is my hands have "polished" the ends of the lockdown bar where my hands sit, nothing missing, just more shiny.
Preventative, check the nuts under the pop bumper are tight, order a spare set of rubbers especially a couple of extra post rubbers, align the flippers (toothpick in the hole, flipper resting on toothpick) adjust yr eos, should b good to go
IMG20210518165341 (resized).jpgIMG20210518165355 (resized).jpgIMG20210518165425 (resized).jpg
Quoted from FuryosJustin:I have standard #192 with approx 1200 plays, no sign of wear around buttons. What I have noticed is my hands have "polished" the ends of the lockdown bar where my hands sit, nothing missing, just more shiny.
Preventative, check the nuts under the pop bumper are tight, order a spare set of rubbers especially a couple of extra post rubbers, align the flippers (toothpick in the hole, flipper resting on toothpick) adjust yr eos, should b good to go
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome, thanks for the feedback. Idk why some of the BSEs seemed to wear so bad but if yours looks that mint still, I'm not gonna bother with mylar unless I notice an issue developing.
My stupid plastic “spring” that holds the ship broke. I’m not sure how since it is such a brilliant design. :/ is there a recommended fix for this that isn’t a large piece of metal?
Quoted from nogoodnames222:737 (standard) paid; I thought it was never going to happen.
Decided to run it at a friend's arcade for a bit as I'm going to be moving soon and it'll be fun to share with my friends + the community; things are finally feeling a bit more normal here in Portland. I know the general consensus is to play the game and then go from there, but is there anything preventative I should do in this case to make sure the game doesn't turn into a big headache for the location owner? Right now I was just planning on mylar around the flipper buttons (cause the cabinet decals seem to wear out incredibly fast...) and letting 'er ride.
Just a little concerned at the amount of grinding/welding/drilling going on in this thread, this late in production... but still very excited.
edit: does anyone have a picture of the decal wear on a routed BSE (in the holes of the portal lollipops)? just realized no mylar is available with a hole cut for the magnasave button... I'm debating skipping it, but don't want to end up with a bare white cabinet.
I only run my machine in my basement. The only "go grab the attendant" stuff I've dealt with (Dad help me, the ball is stuck) has to do with the Rick and Morty drops. If they are not perfectly flush with the playfield the ball can hangup there. There are adjustment screws underneath and its an easy fix, but something you want to get dialed in before it gets public loving.
Good luck!
Quoted from nogoodnames222:Idk why some of the BSEs seemed to wear so bad but if yours looks that mint still, I'm not gonna bother with mylar unless I notice an issue developing.
Probably depends on the player(s), some are tappers, some are slappers, and some just press the flipper buttons. I decided to go with this solution because it looks cool! https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p161/Rick_and_Morty_pinball_mod.html
Quoted from Aniraf:My stupid plastic “spring” that holds the ship broke. I’m not sure how since it is such a brilliant design. :/ is there a recommended fix for this that isn’t a large piece of metal?
Here’s the replacement.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0185-00
Quoted from Aniraf:My stupid plastic “spring” that holds the ship broke. I’m not sure how since it is such a brilliant design. :/ is there a recommended fix for this that isn’t a large piece of metal?
Make sure you don't overtighten the mounting nuts on install and that you check the actuator to make sure it isn't moving that flap too far up. I shortened the throw a bit and lowered the power on mine.
Quoted from Aniraf:My stupid plastic “spring” that holds the ship broke. I’m not sure how since it is such a brilliant design. :/ is there a recommended fix for this that isn’t a large piece of metal?
Someone a while back in this thread recommended loosening the nuts that hold that flap down so the plastic is loose and it absorbs some of the impact so it is not all on the bend. I had to take off the house and the plastic around it to do it (you have to hold the bolts from under while you loosen up top). I did this immediately upon receiving my game and even though I had bought the metal version and another backup from Pinball Life (not counting the one they gave me with the game also), I have over 1400 plays on my game and zero breaks.
Since you are replacing yours, just do not tighten it down when you reinstall the new mount. Leave it loose so it has play. The lock nuts will hold it wherever you set them.
Has anyone had the entire right side go dead on them?
No right flipper, no sling, no launch, no ball feed.....
I think I’m about done with this game.
Quoted from Lounge:Has anyone had the entire right side go dead on them?
No right flipper, no sling, no launch, no ball feed.....
I think I’m about done with this game.
And if the fuse is good, a wire just broke off on the top flipper.
Like it did on mine.
Wellington
Quoted from Lounge:Has anyone had the entire right side go dead on them?
No right flipper, no sling, no launch, no ball feed.....
I think I’m about done with this game.
Yep it's happened a fair bit on ours. Bottom right fuse (4A slow blow 20mm) on the board in back box.
Hoping for a small addition to the feature menu... I enjoy the topper just not the noise. Can a 3rd option be added in the Settings - Rick and Morty (Feature) - Attract Mode Topper -
As is: Enabled or Disabled
Requesting: Enabled, Enabled (Lights Only), Disabled
Either way, loving this game!
Quoted from ezeltmann:Anybody have a pic of the mech that moves the ship . Mine appears to be broken , with the metal bar not attached to anything.
TIA . already sent to Spooky.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
No that's right, the rod should be loose, and it pushed up by the metal bar below it that is attached to the coil. Looks like maybe yours is set too high or too short as it should be touching that bar.
Quoted from ezeltmann:Anybody have a pic of the mech that moves the ship . Mine appears to be broken , with the metal bar not attached to anything.
TIA . already sent to Spooky.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mine looks like yours. I assume yours got stuck? The rod on mine has gotten stuck in the up position a couple of times, thought it was strange how loose it felt when I lifted the table to discover the issue. Curious if others have made any adjustments to prevent this.
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