(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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  • 736 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 hours ago by zebpin61
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106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 20,183 posts in this topic. You are on page 269 of 404.
#13401 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I haven't been keeping up with every last posted issue / fix / theory / change in Flippergate. But I have noticed that between the various issues, perceptions, solutions, revisions, and personally-tuned settings between games, there are a LOT of moving variables in trying to sort these issues out!
So I was thinking that a matrix would be handy, something kind of like this:
[quoted image]
I don't promise it is complete or thorough, but maybe someone smarter than me can refine it (or suggest the edits to me). That way when people are having issues they can baseline what they have as they change settings. Or folks that claim to have "perfect" games can share their secret recipe?
I'm one of the last games to be delivered so I haven't been able to directly help much, but I think this could be useful?

This will certainly be helpful for some people! . Good work!... key post somebody please!?

#13402 2 years ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

This thread be like
[quoted image]

Jerry Daycare FTW

#13403 2 years ago

I thought all this flippergate talk was going to breakout into its own thread....?
I see 35+ new posts to this thread, jump in thinking “no way, ANOTHER code drop”, only to find out it’s just more of all this flipper speak.

Flipperty flip flop flip

#13404 2 years ago

A Jerry Daycare thread might be more fitting. For some posters. :3

#13405 2 years ago
C3140467-11BD-4AB9-B8DB-0CAA5E6EEC9F (resized).jpegC3140467-11BD-4AB9-B8DB-0CAA5E6EEC9F (resized).jpeg
15
#13406 2 years ago

Tonight i moved my RAM into its proper location in the Spooky row. Had to move the whole row down a spot since i’m particular about chronologicalness. Plus i like it at the open end because the cab is so purdy.

Anyway i ended up a little shallower than before, my inclinometer reading 6.6 this time. I played a game to see how that shot and wow i had my best game ever. Nailed the garage several times from the upper flipper. My guide rails are factory, i didn’t F with them at all. Played a few more at this pitch and really liked how it played, so i’m leaving it.

Out of the box i’ve only adjusted the switch gaps on the flipper buttons, the EOS’s and the stand up targets. I’ll shave down my flipper bushings one day. But i can hit every shot and don’t get many rejects from the scoop. Still in the honeymoon phase and basically don’t play anything else right now.

#13407 2 years ago

My mate has been getting into it, wiped the floor with me too Ha ha

The follow the leader right orbit at 8:30 was interesting.

Then at the end, that description sounds alot like one of those Fun Dimensions mate! Pmsl

I got a description like a fault. I had missed what happened during the game, I didn't see til I watched the recording back Ha ha .. " This flipper was, it was flipping when I didn't want it to flip, and it wasn't flipping when I wanted it to flip!!??" :3

13
#13408 2 years ago

Wubba Lubba Dub Dub!!

#494 in the mutha fuckn house. Countless months to finally arrive safe and sound on my doorstep, but couldn’t be happier. So excited to delve into this amazing pin!!

Thanks Charlie, Eric, Scott, Bowen and all the lovely folk at Spooky. Fuck yeah!!!

3E9CA128-1218-46B2-B7E7-C1450BDFE93C (resized).jpeg3E9CA128-1218-46B2-B7E7-C1450BDFE93C (resized).jpeg

#13409 2 years ago

Does anyone have installation instructions for the Blue Crystal Mod?? Mine didn’t come with any.

#13410 2 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Does anyone have installation instructions for the Blue Crystal Mod?? Mine didn’t come with any.

Here you go

20210408_185420 (resized).jpg20210408_185420 (resized).jpg20210408_185440 (resized).jpg20210408_185440 (resized).jpg20210408_185445 (resized).jpg20210408_185445 (resized).jpg20210408_185455 (resized).jpg20210408_185455 (resized).jpg20210408_185501 (resized).jpg20210408_185501 (resized).jpg20210408_185508 (resized).jpg20210408_185508 (resized).jpg
#13411 2 years ago

I just got my build sheet (590 standard) the other day, How long do I have until payment is required?

#13412 2 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Here you go[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you

#13413 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammer1021:

I just got my build sheet (590 standard) the other day, How long do I have until payment is required?

About 2/3 weeks

#13414 2 years ago

New diverter I made going in today.

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#13415 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

New diverter I made going in today.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Good luck, looks good

#13416 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

New diverter I made going in today.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

n/m I see it.

#13417 2 years ago

Question: Could a person weld the current diverter components together as well or would it be too weak or maybe the two metals are not the same?? So far haven't had issues with my diverter but I would definitely consider it.

#13418 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

Question: Could a person weld the current diverter components together as well or would it be too weak or maybe the two metals are not the same?? So far haven't had issues with my diverter but I would definitely consider it.

It would probably need to be TIG welded but yes, should work.

#13419 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

Question: Could a person weld the current diverter components together as well or would it be too weak or maybe the two metals are not the same?? So far haven't had issues with my diverter but I would definitely consider it.

Possible to move the bend over portion to the other side of the post, tap new threads in the post through holes and use new screws from the backside?

It isn't clear to me what specific issue this attempts to fix.

#13420 2 years ago

703 Delivered.

I feel my game may not be square.

I spent a good 10 minutes trying to get the lock bar back on as the glass was a tiny bit longer on one side.

When looking near the back box that same side doesn't touch all the way. Other than that amazing machine!!

On a side note I thought the shaker was going off It turns out it was just the bass. When it did I nearly soild myself. I shook the entire apartment building.

#13421 2 years ago
Quoted from astroroxy:

703 Delivered.
I feel my game may not be square.
I spent a good 10 minutes trying to get the lock bar back on as the glass was a tiny bit longer on one side.
When looking near the back box that same side doesn't touch all the way. Other than that amazing machine!!
On a side note I thought the shaker was going off It turns out it was just the bass. When it did I nearly soild myself. I shook the entire apartment building.

Interesting, I'm 705 and have the same issue with the cabinet not being square...reached out to Spooky and spoke with AJ I believe...said try to bend the lockdown tab to clear the glass the other option is to remove a small notch in the wood on the side of the machine where the glass hits the top of the machine to allow it to go higher and clear the lower receiver edge...not what I really want to get involved in on a new machine...shit should be square...cabinet building 101...pics are right side top side and left side bottom..

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#13422 2 years ago

Try flipping the glass?

I had the same issue and mine only likes to be in there the one way. Not saying my cab isn't out of square a bit, just that flipping the glass gave me the room I needed.

#13423 2 years ago

Had the same issue and flipping the glass didn’t rectify anything. Got 1/4” drill bit and did some careful routing in the top of the offending channel. Right as rain now. Just go slowly.

#13424 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Possible to move the bend over portion to the other side of the post, tap new threads in the post through holes and use new screws from the backside?
It isn't clear to me what specific issue this attempts to fix.

Quoted from klr650:

Question: Could a person weld the current diverter components together as well or would it be too weak or maybe the two metals are not the same?? So far haven't had issues with my diverter but I would definitely consider it.

The screw that is at a bad height so that the ball hits it, causes a problematic rattle. Perhaps another aspect overlooked in going to this thinner playfield, I don't know.

I wouldn't have gone to any welding extent. The only reason I kinked the diverter plate while still installed was to try solve the problem simply and effectively, alot easier than pulling it all apart and installing the countersunk screws with locknuts on the back. The kinking solution worked extremely well as it turned out, just as long as the bending procedure doesn't go way overboard of course.

Installing countersunk fasteners was definately what I was going to do, as it would have been a pretty simple excercise, but the kink ended up working perfectly, so obviously I never got to that stage.

#13425 2 years ago
Quoted from astroroxy:

703 Delivered.
I feel my game may not be square.
I spent a good 10 minutes trying to get the lock bar back on as the glass was a tiny bit longer on one side.
When looking near the back box that same side doesn't touch all the way. Other than that amazing machine!!
On a side note I thought the shaker was going off It turns out it was just the bass. When it did I nearly soild myself. I shook the entire apartment building.

Make sure the game is level. Many people (including myself) have had this problem. When it’s not perfectly level the cab twistsa bit and isn’t square. Once perfectly levelled the glass squares up.

#13426 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Interesting, I'm 705 and have the same issue with the cabinet not being square...reached out to Spooky and spoke with AJ I believe...said try to bend the lockdown tab to clear the glass the other option is to remove a small notch in the wood on the side of the machine where the glass hits the top of the machine to allow it to go higher and clear the lower receiver edge...not what I really want to get involved in on a new machine...shit should be square...cabinet building 101...pics are right side top side and left side bottom..
[quoted image][quoted image]

Same issue here. I have to take a small chisel, and lightly tap into the top of the channel to get it to fit.

Was not at all impressed that I had to do that on a brand new game.

But that was just the beginning of a long list of issues for me.

Thankfully, I'm down to just the flippers, which by the sounds of it, means I'm in the same boat with a number of people here.

Let's hope they can get the right people at Spooky to work on this, so epthegeek can focus his talents on making this code even more amazing

#13427 2 years ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Make sure the game is level. Many people (including myself) have had this problem. When it’s not perfectly level the cab twistsa bit and isn’t square. Once perfectly levelled the glass squares up.

Same with mine, took out the glass to do some adjustments and could not for the life of me get the bars to go down after. Leveled the game perfect and flipped the glass and for whatever reason it goes in easy. I ended up making a tiny mark with a sharpie at the edge of the glass to know the side that works. Also make sure its past that lip at the very top if it is not fully under it wont go in (that also tripped me up when I first got the game).

#13428 2 years ago

Ditto. Cab not square. Tried flipping glass. Eventually resorted to bending lock bar tabs and more or less forcing things. No proof but guessing is that cab left spooky ok, but loading and unloading + manhandling along the way + rough ride lead to alignment issues.

#13429 2 years ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Had the same issue and flipping the glass didn’t rectify anything. Got 1/4” drill bit and did some careful routing in the top of the offending channel. Right as rain now. Just go slowly.

The original glass fitted fine but the invisiglass was a tad longer.
There are two small blocks of wood at the top of the glass channels that stop the glass
from going all the way in. A little routing/drilling sorted the issue and I certainly don’t get any
glass rattle with the sound on 11 !!

#13430 2 years ago

20 or so games into ownership... and while it's been a mixed bag so far, I'm super happy. What an amazing game, brilliant, but freakin brutal!! Build quality seems great and initially out of the box it plays quite well, but after updating to the latest firmware I had numerous problems with phantom flips, machine gun flips etc. I reset the EOS switches to within an inch of their lives and it's now playing perfectly. Now to somehow improve my flipper skills.

#13431 2 years ago

Turns out my upper flipper had some questionable soldering on one of the lugs. After re-soldering it, things were awesome. I would suggest anyone who has any upper flipper weirdness after playing for a bit to closely take a look, and make sure its solid and done well. For me the game would play fine at the start, and then after awhile the upper flipper would just start acting weird. If I left it alone, and came back the flipper would be fine at the start again. Played for a long time last night and things were great.

#13432 2 years ago
Quoted from LouMatt:

Turns out my upper flipper had some questionable soldering on one of the lugs. After re-soldering it, things were awesome. I would suggest anyone who has any upper flipper weirdness after playing for a bit to closely take a look, and make sure its solid and done well. For me the game would play fine at the start, and then after awhile the upper flipper would just start acting weird. If I left it alone, and came back the flipper would be fine at the start again. Played for a long time last night and things were great.

I had to resolder my upper flipper and meseeks target within the first week. After that all the rest have held up fine.

#13433 2 years ago

New diverter looks good and functions perfectly. Loops are fast and consistent.

Made a little spacer with a hard post sleeve and a nylon washer. Made another small adjustment to the right orbit. Seems to be working great.

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#13435 2 years ago

Build 2021.05.11: - This build is available to test if you would like but is not considered and official public update just yet
- Fixed: The 50 point bug that would mess up the megaseed digits
- Fixed: Crash in changing dimensions in tournament mode
- Fixed: Crash if you entered the service menu when an adventure intro was happening.
- Fixed: bad high score image replaced with blank circle instead of magenta grid of trash.
- Fixed: Roving shots in Scary Terry could stop roving after the timer ended.
- Fixed: Grenade light in purge wouldn't re-light if you had none and got another.
- Fixed: The speaker light colors and PF flash colors in bonus weren't matching properly.
- Fixed: Flipper settings are all properly re-read after adjustment, without a restart.
- Changed: Put Jerry's Simulation dimension back in without the 'my man' call out.
- Changed: Options for what hold pattern to use have been removed. After much testing and discussions
with an electrical engineer friend, the ORIGINAL pattern is now the only one.
- Changed: An "EXTREME" option added for even stronger hold at the expense of more heat.
- Changed: Recovery rules were moved back to the software side (instead of hardware rules) to reduce
complexity and simplify race conditions with rapid flipping.

#13436 2 years ago

Is the flippergate page new (link at the bottom of the code page)? https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/rm_flippers.html

There are a lot of good technical details documented.

#13437 2 years ago

Anyone know if we will be getting a true Wizard mode coded into the game?

#13438 2 years ago

Is the “my man” line removal some type of Adult Swim request, or from some other source? I know I’ve heard that line throughout the episodes.

#13439 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Is the flippergate page new (link at the bottom of the code page)? https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/rm_flippers.html
There are a lot of good technical details documented.

It really is an excellent document. Eric did a great job explaining how things work and the reasoning behind all the different variations. I'm not sure it was previously well understood just *how many* different handlers had been implemented - nor that a running build change was made last summer. Nor that some of the settings "reverted" from one version to the next. This would certainly explain all the conflicting reports and experiences people have had up through now.

Spooky ought to add this to the game's manual.

I think this document coupled with a troubleshooting matrix (like the one I posted earlier), might go a long way toward helping people get their games tuned, or at least to a more consistent point for cross-referencing.

Thanks Eric!

#13440 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Is the flippergate page new (link at the bottom of the code page)? https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/rm_flippers.html
There are a lot of good technical details documented.

This is very nice to see. Takes a lot of the mystery out of it. Thanks epthegeek !

#13441 2 years ago

Just an FYI for those patiently waiting for the last couple months - the redesign of the Rick and Morty Tibetan Breeze flipper coil cooling kits is done and the few backorders I had paused back in March will be sent out later this week with the new design, and then the new kit will be made available on pinmonk.com this Friday.

The new bracket design is on the side of the flipper plate like the Stern Spike kits that have been rock solid for almost a year now. I've also upgraded the fans so all of them are running 50% more CFM than the original ones. Cooling performance is even better with these changes.

What this change means is that I have to customize the kits for each Spooky release a bit due to geography being different around each machine's flipper plate causing clearance issues, so initially this new kit is ONLY for Rick and Morty. As I get more tested with the new design, I'll add back the other machines with slightly different kits.

#13442 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Is the flippergate page new (link at the bottom of the code page)? https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/rm_flippers.html
There are a lot of good technical details documented.

One thing I haven't gotten around to doing is measuring the ACTUAL Stern Spike duty cycle for their flipper coil holds in real time. It seems like there HAS to be something special going on there because the heat build when holding is SO MUCH less on Spike than SAM or Whitestar Stern systems. I think there's some know-how left there for Spooky to mine.

-1
#13443 2 years ago

Curious if it's just my game, or if the flipper bats on this are different than other games.

I looked at my older and new Sterns, and my Williams and Bally games, and the tip of the bat is all about the same size. Looking at my R&M, and then tip is noticeably thinner.

Can anyone confirm this, or did I just get some weird thin bats!?!?!

Thanks

#13444 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Is the “my man” line removal some type of Adult Swim request, or from some other source? I know I’ve heard that line throughout the episodes.

I don't think it's an adult swim thing. More a "woke" thing
Some user "Chris the pintern" or something like that, made a complaint that the "my man" call-out was racist because jack danger did the voice and is white, while the character is black.
Of course this "Chris the pintern" just flipped his early spot and never even owned the game

#13445 2 years ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

I don't think it's an adult swim thing. More a "woke" thing
Some user "Chris the pintern" or something like that, made a complaint that the "my man" call-out was racist because jack danger did the voice and is white, while the character is black.
Of course this "Chris the pintern" just flipped his early spot and never even owned the game

Jack publicly apologized for this and stated he was wrong.

Chris streamed the game publicly after he took delivery. It’s now sitting somewhere in Alabama.

You couldn’t be more wrong- but this is pinside so it’s always possible

#13446 2 years ago

What actor says the line in the show? I'd always assume licensing issues when something has to be left out. Very cool that they were able to re-add the dimension without it.

#13447 2 years ago
Quoted from scruffypinball:

Chris streamed the game publicly after he took delivery. It’s now sitting somewhere in Alabama. You couldn’t be more wrong- but this is pinside so it’s always possible

ah, but what if he had two ?

#111 christhepintern
. . . . . 12.21.19 bse dep sold for 2500 to timmmmyboy 2.15.20c

#203 christhepintern DISTRO
. . . . . 12.20.19 4sale bse @3000 may del expected
. . . . . archived, taken down

#13448 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

One thing I haven't gotten around to doing is measuring the ACTUAL Stern Spike duty cycle for their flipper coil holds in real time. It seems like there HAS to be something special going on there because the heat build when holding is SO MUCH less on Spike than SAM or Whitestar Stern systems. I think there's some know-how left there for Spooky to mine.

Yeah, hooking up my scope to some spike coils is on my todo list.

#13449 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Yeah, hooking up my scope to some spike coils is on my todo list.

Some multimeters have a duty cycle measurement setting, too.

#13450 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Just an FYI for those patiently waiting for the last couple months - the redesign of the Rick and Morty Tibetan Breeze flipper coil cooling kits is done and the few backorders I had paused back in March will be send out later this week with the new design, and then the new kit will be made available on pinmonk.com this Friday.
The new bracket design is on the side of the flipper plate like the Stern Spike kits that have been rock solid for almost a year now. I've also upgraded the fans so all of them are running 50% more CFM than the original ones. Cooling performance is even better with these changes.
What this change means is that I have to customize the kits for each Spooky release a bit due to geography being different around each machine's flipper plate causing clearance issues, so initially this new kit is ONLY for Rick and Morty. As I get more tested with the new design, I'll add back the other machines with slightly different kits.

If I have the original design, will they still be sufficient for this game? I just got my game so I haven't had the chance to put them on, but I've noticed some significant flipper fade already.

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