'Now. Don't forget to have fun."

Gotta be one of the best, 'having a bad game?', callouts ever.

The 'li li li lick my extra balls', and when you get double super skill shot and 'We have Jesus Christ here' is also a favorite

Quick update.

After changing springs (left using Stern, and both rights using WMS) and getting some games in, I'm still seeing the issue where a ball high up on the playfield comes down, hit the flipper, and it slightly dips down, and then flicks up causing the ball to essentially shoot on its own. I would say that the power fade issue has reduced, but not the "dip & flip" and the upper flipper still does a bit of fluttering (better than before though).

Also, one thing I'm trying to figure out is the right flipper shot to the left ramp. When I first got the game few weeks ago, I could hit the shits regularly, but the issue was power, so it couldn't make it up the ramp. Now that I have the power (He-Man!!!!!) I can't find the ramp shot. It's very inconsistent, and doesn't feel like skill, but luck when you hit it.

I tried filming a quick gameplay video to see what was going wrong. One observation I've made is that on the left side, the ball transitions from the ball guide to the flipper smoothly. It's like a perfectly straight line. On the right side however, it has a tiny little drop from the guide to the flipper bat that actually create a small bounce, making an accurate shot almost impossible.

I have lined both flippers up with the ball guide, so not sure what else to do. I might try to raise it a little more, but already as the flippers are set, I can't hit the lowest target on the left side.

I'm wondering how you guys who set flippers to the toothpick hole are getting accurate shots? Is there not a drop from the guide to the flipper since the flipper is aligned lower?

Thanks for all the help

I think that was a Charlie addition to the script; and the chuckle is just Justin cracking up as he read it. Kinda fun that it made Justin laugh.

I don't know which mode I was in, but Rick says something like "well, 3 out of 10 isn't bad... Actually on second thought you really suck". I cracked up so hard I ended up draining from not being able to concentrate and I was having a good game.

This seems to be a recurring theme with the funny ads that are part of interdimensional cable. It's as if they purposely chose the first take, where Justin is reading it for the first time, making him laugh. To me that is a comedic genius move by the production...as it makes it far more memorable. Sounds like you guys did something similar with the Jessica's Kingdom call out.

You can clearly hear it on Man Vs. Car ("wouldn't the car always win?") and on the Two Brothers ad where he stumbles his way through the script and ends with ("It's just called two brothers?" *laughs).

We are all anxious to hear any new ones you can sneak into future updates.

The interdimensional cable bits are 100% ad-lib. He just rambles random things and then they give them to the animators with no direction on what to do with it.

I have zero issues making my ramp shots. Here is a reference pic of where my flippers are set relative to the guide holes. Basically "thick-toothpick in the holes, with flipper rubbers resting on toothpick".

IMG_0022 (resized).JPG

Here's a reference pic of some flipper return springs:
64105885141__2D322119-92AF-4FCC-AF29-D24166B7F749 (resized).JPG

From the top to bottom:
R&M
Classic Bally
Williams? (not sure, sorry)
Modern Stern

You can see how much larger and beefier the stock R&M springs are, they also have noticeably more resistance when stretched than the modern Stern ones. Though the R&M ones are a bit longer so wouldn't need to stretch as far I guess.

I installed the Stern ones on my game yesterday and worked my way up the Flipper Hold Strength settings, starting with DEFAULT, Low, and going up. My EOS switches are set to close at the very end of the flipper stroke.

For me, the new springs didn't seem to change much with regard to the flipper knock-down issue. I still prefer the AGGRESSIVE / High setting and see the least issues with that. I didn't test ORIGINAL as my overall feeling is that the general flipper feel is more responsive with the newer approach in DEFAULT and AGGRESSIVE.

It did feel like the flippers were overall snappier with the smaller springs installed though - I'm keeping them on.

I'm not sure what this means exactly, but the difference between 'default' and 'original' is just the timings for holding the flipper up after the flip - nothing else is different. The 'original' option uses 1ms power on/Xms power off cycles, and the other 2 use 2ms power on/2 x (Xms power off). Should be no difference in 'responsiveness' The flip action and recovery actions are the same no matter what.

Ah, okay. Somewhere along the way I must have gotten confused and thought "Original" was the old approach to the flipper code, before you adopted the more hardware-based approach. I've been ignoring it for that reason, because when I tested the last code release the new code was so much more responsive to me.

I'll give it a try too.

#725 options list received today.

43BE098E-B19E-4B4E-9271-36E881A71208 (resized).jpeg

Along the same line: "Extra Ball, mother#%@!"

Build sheet received on #721 today.

Just had a killer game. ~50M were in Love Potion #9. With the new cooler running flipper code and fan running, the flippers played strong throughout!

Really love the scoring on this game...always feeling like a "good ball" rewards you. Some games you can flail away and never get rewarded (in terms of points). Dialed In is a great example...almost all the points are in the SIM card shot.

IMG_3768 (resized).jpeg

Build sheet submitted for 724 today. Here come the standards.

In the words of the great noobnoob...."Gaaawd Damn!"

Does anyone know the name of the font used on the display (things like high scores, etc.)? I wanted to make a couple of custom apron cards and would like to match the font.

Who sells that cup holder? That is bad-ass!

Build sheet submitted for Standard #647

Build sheet submitted for #586 Standard

Does anyone have the ability to expertly shorten standard bushings? If so, maybe we could get a group order together to make it worth your while, and we could just have some of these made rather than waiting on Spooky?

I figured you could get a bulk of them on the cheap from Pinball Life, and then someone with the right machinery could easily and quickly cut them down for us and sell them at a reasonable premium.

I don't want to be messing with this myself, and from the sounds of it, there are others who feel the same.

Any takers?

The shortening the bushings part doesn't bother me...it's the taking the flippers apart and trying to put them back together again..lol.

Similar to this, there are times when I start Whirly Dirly (w/o MB) and the u-turn shots are not lit and do not progress the mode shots. This last time I saw this, after completed the mode, the u-turn then lit up both purple inserts (while in between modes). Shooting them didn't count for anything.

The ship shots don't light up for Whirly if you have a lock lit or a ball in the lock. I think Whirly wants loop shots which the ship isn't if locks are involved.

Ah, good to know. Although, I am pretty sure I did not have any balls locked. Even so it wouldn't explain them lighting up after the mode completed.

It will also not light up if lock is lit.

I can't explain why they lit up after the mode but I have seem some odd lighting during transitions before.

Here is the thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tmnt-mutagen-cup-holder/page/3#post-6174634

This is explains a lot. After the most recent code update and my flippers went from normal to wacky, I messed with the settings for an hour but could not find a good balance. Thankfully, klr650 solved the mystery! Tonight I set the flippers to "Original" with all other params at default, POWER CYCLED, and what do you know, the flippers are back to normal, which is so great!

Eric has expressed in recent posts his level of frustration. I get that, software dev is not easy, I know this to be true from experience. He says "try this to fix the problem" and we say "we tried that and it did not help" (paraphrasing). Thankfully this forum provides a sounding board so we can eventually get to the root cause. And then we can get back to playing pinball.

Just did the same thing as you...and WOW is it better for me on Original vs. Default. I had actually never tried the Original, I've only had my machine since the 4/5 code update and figured the Original setting wasn't going to work based on the comments I read in the thread. My only concern now is heat and if the flippers lose power after a few games. I'll test that this weekend.

Just to confirm in case anyone is wondering...I adjusted my EOS and flipper button contacts. On Default, I was getting lots of knock downs on the upper right flipper only, and was getting a lot of the pulse kick back with the lower flippers. On Original, the flippers feel stronger and tighter, with no pulse back (I can actually catch the ball with the flipper bats). I also have noticed the knock downs on the upper right flipper have been drastically reduced. Original hold...default everything else is how I'm rolling for now.

I have the different springs coming but may hold off on trying them if my flippers can show some staying power over time.

Thanks epthegeek for all the continued support!

Right flipper had power to make the left ramp shots, but I stupidly decided to change the alignment because I could not hit the button left target with the way it was.

Now, just from re-aligning it, the flipper now fades after a couple of minutes of play, and the left ramp is impossible to make.

What is up with this game??? I've never had a game this finicky.

Anyone have any ideas???

Reset your EOS.

Got my RnM this past weekend and have been doing some minor tweaks. Everything was working fine but just had an issue crop up. The second trough is not staging balls properly and when I drain my current ball, it does not register. I end up with 5 balls in the drain and none in the 2nd trough. I checked all the switches in the troughs and the optos and they are all working in the test menu. I also checked the optos in the tunnel. Anyone else experience this issue and if so, any suggestions on where to look?

Would the EOS engage differently just from adjusting the flipper like 1/8"?

Also make sure there is a tiny gap (like edge of playing card) between the flipper and the bushing. If it's jammed up against the bushing (easy to do since they are so high) it will drag and overly heat the coil. Just yank up on it and make sure it has some play.

But yeah that could indeed affect your EOS if it's now not engaging at the end of the stroke.

If it’s heating up that fast, it’s probably binding due to being put back together a bit off.

You clamped the flipper shaft too high or low when you adjusted the droop, and it's pulling in at an angle now, causing friction and weakening after a few minutes.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but with other games, I've used the WMS flipper gap tool on the top side of the pf, and at the bottom, I push the part that clamps to the flipper bat shaft all the way up, so the only movement is the gap created at the top.

Is this correct, or should there be some space at the bottom in addition to the gap at the top?

So when everything is set, and you grab the flipper and pull up, how much play should there be? Like 1-2mm?

That's how I do it and that sounds about right

I stopped using the tool and instead manually eyeball the plunger. Too much variance in playfield/bushing/bracket size and installs these days to blindly trust the tool.

With the flipper resting on the bushing, the clamp should be placed so the plunger goes into the coil perfectly straight when the flipper is activated. I snug things up, then use my finger to push the plunger into the coil a few times with the flipper on the bushing to make sure it's correct height, then adjust the droop, then confirm the clamp placement didn't change, then tighten up more.

Good afternoon group. I'm joining the club this evening and I wanted to check in and ask if anyone has any unboxing and set up advice specific to this game or spooky in general. This is my first unboxing of one of their pins. Thanks in advance and I hope you all have an awesome night.
PB72

It's not a box per se, more like wrapping, the bottom is on the pallet. Don't cut the strap holding the head til the game is up on legs. There's instructions in the parts box on top, get those first and you should be fine.

Be careful about the topper too. It sticks out and is flimsy.

Find another hobby?

So I put in williams return springs and it felt like the flippers were more free (not struggling). Shots felt much more predictable and makeable.

T

Invoice came today for #722. Glad I sold one of my pins just in time to make room for this one!

703 Butter invoiced and paid

There's gotta be at least 50 Rick and Mortys in California now, the R&M capital.