You can borrow mine Vic when it gets in.

Thanks for the offer. Let me know. I'm positive there's a way to make it not so annoyingly loud.

I’m 531 folks all paid up!!

What is required to get this game running up to par and keep it running?

I’m super excited for this, I’ve been waiting a long time.

It’s time to get SCHWIFTY IN HERE!!

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At least one way: I got rid of my topper. The noise was too much. And I didn't care for the characters' pose. And maybe no one noticed, but an open portal on the show does not simply revolve in a circle, looked dumb to me. (I want my $0 back! ) Didn't help that a soffit in my ceiling kept me from pushing the game back as far as I wanted, besides.

I rewired the flashers into the backbox, and now the backbox lighting is no longer static. I mentioned this here a while back, but no comments were forthcoming...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/186#post-6030465

Did you sell it or are you selling it? I'd buy it if it's reasonable to use as a lab subject to figure out how to quiet them.

Check the recent key posts on this thread. There's one about 50 days old from an August build that goes through the must tweak list.

Link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/185#post-6027439

It would be nice to get an updated perspective from a newer build if anything has changed

As another info point I have never had an issue with flipper fade, launch issues, or flippers feeling weak. I have turned down both my flippers because i was getting air balls and just notching it down a couple solved the issues. The garage shot is the smoothest shot in the world, until it is a brick wall, so I mostly attribute that to it just being a hard shot in general not as much a design issue. I know where it is on the flipper to hit it every time, me being quick enough to hit that spot is another thing. Bending the hood of the scoop a tad also solved about 90% of my rejects which was a very quick fix.

With all that said, oh boy did I have to switch out that power supply fan immediately. It is a HUGE difference in ambient sound if you like having that amazing light show in attract mode going while not playing. Game is damn near silent with the fan swap

Data East games did not use PWM.

They were single wound coils, but used Solid State flipper control which allowed a single maximum high power pulse of 40ms or something, before reverting to hold power at that single winding.

The 40ms pulse would be cut short by the EOS switch if it was made before the 40ms pulse time was reached. So, no pulse width management.

PWM is a 21st century thing.

How exactly did they "revert to hold power?" You can't increase the resistance of the coil (like the hold circuit of a dual-wound coil), so how did DE reduce the power flowing through the single-wound coil? Is there logic on the board that switches the power to flow through a resistor after the 40ms initial pulse? AFAIK the only realistic way to cut power is to "turn it on and off really fast" AKA PWM. If PWM is not being used on Whitestar and SAM games, why do the coils buzz when held up?

Hold voltage. 9v I think it is for some of them. DE through to SEGA changed the setup a litle as they progressed.

PWM also reduces the effective voltage, but does it by pulsing at different intervals or for different times. This means no need anymore for the 9vDC hold voltage to be supplied in addition to the high power voltage.

So, there is alternate voltage for hold, on the same coil winding. Can't 100% recall all details off hand, but one that DE used was their "Dreger" flipper hold system. Which as far as I recall is the 9vDC for flipper hold.

They had to come up with something other than what Williams had, that would work, due to legal action and patents. This is where "TYFFASI" printed on their SS flipper boards comes from... "Take Your Fu@king Flippers And Shove It"

Not as familiar with Whitestar, but SAM system I guess is about where PWM was firmly in place. So it started about turn of the century then, with later SEGA and Stern ? .

So what's the deal with the replacement flipper bushings? Do we have to email spooky to get them or are they going to just send them out?

Also I think we would not be having all these issues with a new in the box pinball machine if they just spent some more time play testing each game before shipping them. I would have gladly waited another month or so for them to adjust each switch to make sure they worked without the buyer having to make all these adjustments.

I got #455 a couple of weeks ago. Played it for 10 days or so before making any tweaks to it. I ended up making 3:

1) Sliding the ball guide above the upper flipper outward to the right to make it line up with the flipper. Easy to do by loosening the screws, giving it a little push, and re-tightening.
2) Following Karl DeAngelo's suggestion about the inner loop. Removed the kink, removed the clear plastic, and moved the screw very slightly down the playfield. Makes for a much smoother loop shot.
3) Did the think where you slide one of the ball rail tabs under the side rail for the garage shot. Easier to shoot now as well.

They've definitely made some changes at the factory since production started as Scott D mentioned, and the game shot fine with those. With the adjustments above it seems to flow better for me - easier to repeat loops, combo shots, etc. I prefer it with the changes.

Yes, they took a bit of elbow grease and time. Am I upset about it? Not at all. I'm happy to support a company that's so invested in making its customers happy.

I had this problem with the switch for the right orbit up in the corner. Worked fine out of the box, but then it started to bend getting hit by the ball. I think maybe it was sitting too high? Took some adjusting, but got it nice and smooth again.

I also felt like I was making the inner loop/skill shot (spinner loop) and it wasn't registering more than it was registering.

Even though all my original switches worked fine in switch test rolling the ball over them, I ordered 4 magnetic reed switches from M&M Creations and swapped out all 4 switches up in the loop areas.

Swapped them this past weekend and couldn't be happier. Super easy to install. Thanks to M&M for making these, and thanks to the owners who mentioned this product here in the thread. Will be looking for places to add these switches in my other games.

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I added these to the outer orbit and love them too. Interesting that you put one on the inner loop. I'm getting occasional airballs off of a switch that's sitting too high... rather than adjust the one that's there, I might throw one of these in. Good idea!

Yeah. I'm done with adjusting.

Love it! Looks great!

Matt & Dan
M&M Creations

How much was it for 4 switches?

$35 each switch I think.

For those having issues with the flippers sticking, Eric posted about a month ago on the subject; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/198#post-6074621.

MRS are not cheap, but they are a 1 time fix on most games. Right around $35 each I think,

MRS so hot right now...

Hi Mettle64 - you don't need to drill a new hole. Good process from a pinsider to stick the end of a cue tip with light colored paint on the end to mark the MRS platform as you slide the switch into the slot. Just drill the mark and only install one screw. These are very light and non-contact so no worries of it moving with one screw. We don't put a hole in because we've noticed substantial tolerance on these holes from switch to switch so you could bind the MRS so we're trying to prevent that.
Thanks
Dan

It was necessary for me to drill a hole to make the change I wanted, but not necessary to drill the hole to play and enjoy the game.

Up to you what you want to do with your spot, of course. Pinball should be fun, so if this stuff makes you anxious, go ahead and flip the spot - should be easy to do.

One thing is for sure...none of these games will play remotely the same.

So as I have played more I have another observation/question.

At times when the portal is lit, the right orbit if the ball travel is slow will go down the orbit instead of to the garage. I assume the diverter should not allow this? Are there times when it doesn't close when the portal is on or should it always go to the garage? I assume it has to be working.

EDIT: N/M as I thought about it, it can only pivot at the top which would mean when it is open it can go thru either and a slow ball would go down the orbit much of the time.

New legs and improved shooter lane arrived today.

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Did you have to ask spooky for the new shooter lane wire form?

Bought it from pinball life

So my voltage wire broke off at the motors contact point during shipping. I'm never going to resolder it since I prefer it without sound.

(Rick voice) Yeah-haaa.... Fuckin up some shit!!!!

Just had my highest score yet.

This game is sooo amazing when you’re making shots and dialed in. I Definitely have a love/hate relationship going on with this pin! Mostly love but hate it when it kicks my ass.

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Anyone up to date on what number has shipped recently?

For anyone wanting to follow along with the megaseed tree upgraded ramp support I started a thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/megaseed-tree-upgraded-support-rick-amp-morty-by-pmc

Mine broke off recently too. Unsupported thin tab with heavy resistor and wire attached. I had to grind away the casing, resolder it and then hot melt the crap out of it. But yeah, I am hoping to replace the motor, PinMonk said he was looking in to it.

Bit confused reading some of these posts.

Right now thinking about adding this game, AIQ or GnR to my collection.

This looks like a great game and yes, lots of tweaking required - but as long as you get there in the end, that is dooable.

Then I read about PROC flippers falling when struck.

I played Cactus Canyon Continued - it has PROC and flippers were great.

Is this an issue that would make me put this game further down my list, if it's not fixable?

No, the flippers work great

Of R&M, AIQ, or GNR I'd take R&M. It's definitely brutal and most people who only play a couple games can't get into the game play. I think it's just tough to find the shots at first (similar to JP for me). AIQ is a great game, and definitely on my list eventually, but I can't stand the theme. GNR is a fancy light show box to me. I've played a lot of games on a local SE and I just can't get into it.

So how did you fix the flipper fallback? Curious.

After adjusting my EOS switches, I've never really had any issue with the flippers getting knocked down. Occasionally I'll get a slight knock down when the ball returns from the horse-shoe at a crazy speed, but it's rare.

Game #465 shipped on 2/1 and arrived 2/6. Spent a dozen hours or so getting it dialed in. Next up will have to be the Tibetan Breeze flipper coil fans because once you start playing, it’s hard to stop!

My flippers don't fall back, they worked fine out of the box

I think cactus canyon had dual wound coils so that could make a difference but CCC and R&M are coded by the same person. And there are lots of other PROC games that don't suffer from fallback. So should be able to achieve the same here. Mine currently fall a bit but I haven't adjusted the switches yet

So, what I'm hearing is, it isn't an issue until it's an issue?

...here too, no issue.

I really think that you need to try and play another R&M if possible.

While I do get flipper fall back on occasion, it is pretty rare overall. It is certainly not a major issue like it appears to be with yours.

I was thinking the same thing. I need to pay attention more. Maybe it happens to my left flipper sometimes with a quick hard shot from the pop bumper? Definitely nothing that makes me want to pick up the phone and call Spooky about.

All my flipper settings untouched from however it shipped.

I'm also looking for a reason to order those coil fans, but I'm not having issues so far. Pretty much just myself playing the game though.

Im curious.

PBL sold mirror blades made for TNA and you could have spooky install them when they made your game.

The mirrors that PBL sold. Were they b/w size? Were they custom cut?

Is the R&M playfield anything like tna? Could you use the template from that cut to make blades for R&M? I want to get the black mirrors....it would be nice to have a cutting guide. Can any one who has done it send me a pic?

Might be smart to simply email Terry at PBL. Between him & Scott both being there, see what they recommend.

I don't have access to another one, Rob. Just to be clear, my flipper fallback doesn't happen all the time. It's most annoying during multi-ball when balls are flying fast and furious. And let's be clear, it's not "me"...it's the game. My son immediately noticed and commented on this, and he's a pretty serious player. Many folks on this thread have experienced it and apparently have seen it in other PROC games. I'm glad you don't think it's a big deal, but I feel differently (and I've adjusted the EOS switches, cranked up the software hold, etc.). Even if I played another game and it was better, all that would indicate is quality differences between games. Again, I've been a collector/player for a very long time and I'm not quick to complain...I've had a boatload of issues with this game that I've fixed without any help from Spooky. I just wish they would be a little more forthcoming on this particular issue. I emailed Luke to see what he recommends...

Yea, it's been stated multiple times in this thread of different people having this issue. it's not just him. Mine seems to be getting worse over time. Various people are having different issues.

It's also annoying coming off the pop bumper. Glad some don't have the issue - for me it's a minor annoyance, not a game killer. Guess we need a poll. haha

Spooky works overtime to fix things. Just not sure what the solution is here since it appears to be a quirk of PROC, not a mechanical issue? We'll see if the new bushings help, too.