Allyn, WA
For those that bought the Tibetan Breeze Cooling Kit, does that just run all the time while the game is on? or does it have a sensor to only turn on when coils get warm?
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from toyotaboy:For those that bought the Tibetan Breeze Cooling Kit, does that just run all the time while the game is on? or does it have a sensor to only turn on when coils get warm?
It is on the entire time the game is powered on (I have them on ACNC). But they are silent and have a long life expectancy.
Waiting on shipping notification has me buying mods.
Is flipper fade much of an issue on the upper flipper?
Trying to decide if the 3 fan kit is worth the money
Quoted from fnord:Waiting on shipping notification has me buying mods.
Is flipper fade much of an issue on the upper flipper?
Trying to decide if the 3 fan kit is worth the money
For me it was really only the lower right flipper that could not make the left ramp shot to the top (after some time). You might want to hold off on the order until you know for sure that you have an issue making the shots. On the other hand, keeping the flipper strength consistent is always a good thing.
I definitely saw fade on the upper flipper during a stream session. it is used the same amount of time as the lower flipper.
Quoted from fnord:Great, thanks for the input
Quoted from Jakers:Does anyone make mirror blades for this game?
Some one need to make black mirrors for this game. Its the only way.
Lethbridge, AB
Has anyone made adjustments to the Beth, Summer, and Jerry targets?
They seem incredibly stiff and tough to activate outside of a direct hit. The foam backing on them is very thick.
Also what gameplay purpose does the Rick target serve other than a leaderboard mention?
Quoted from Soulstoner:Has anyone made adjustments to the Beth, Summer, and Jerry targets?
They seem incredibly stiff and tough to activate outside of a direct hit. The foam backing on them is very thick.
Also what gameplay purpose does the Rick target serve other than a leaderboard mention?
I was fiddling with this yesterday. It seemed from what I could tell the connectors are held together (touching) and the ball hitting spreads them. The foam is wedged against them so they do not activate easily. I am not 100% sure this is how they are set up but the initial look seemed to be like that. If this is how it really is, cutting back a little foam should help the issue.
I would have expected them to have a gap, and ball hit makes the leaf touch, and the foam prevents them from going too far...but... will require some more investigation.
Also, they put the stickers over the top of (rivet?) but it's pointed. These stickers won't last long as there is a huge bump under all these stickers. Normally the rivets are mostly flat inside.
Quoted from Zablon:I was fiddling with this yesterday. It seemed from what I could tell the connectors are held together (touching) and the ball hitting spreads them. The foam is wedged against them so they do not activate easily. I am not 100% sure this is how they are set up but the initial look seemed to be like that. If this is how it really is, cutting back a little foam should help the issue.
I would have expected them to have a gap, and ball hit makes the leaf touch, and the foam prevents them from going too far...but... will require some more investigation.
Also, they put the stickers over the top of (rivet?) but it's pointed. These stickers won't last long as there is a huge bump under all these stickers. Normally the rivets are mostly flat inside.
I adjusted the leaf springs on those targets. Makes them trigger like all my old BWMs machines.
Quoted from Coyohtay:I adjusted the leaf springs on those targets. Makes them trigger like all my old BWMs machines.
which way are they? Did you just bend them out away from the cushion?
Quoted from Zablon:which way are they? Did you just bend them out away from the cushion?
Just bend the rear contacts a little closer, not the target part, the standard switch gap is about 1/16" or a little less.
Bend from the base of the leaf, not the top.
use an adjustment tool or thin needle nose with power off of course:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Quoted from Dodgey:Number 552 here, returned options sheet with request for the TNA rgb lighting speaker kit thrown in the cabinet for 95 bucks....( for my TNA).....disappointed they wouldn't accept my offer....would only accept 75 bucks ....damn you spooky . Customer for life.
With Customer Service like this, I just don't understand how Spooky thinks they can run with the Big Dogs?
I had a similar situation I want to complain about! One of my ACNC wireforms broke recently after having the game over a year. I emailed them a photo and asked them if they had anymore in stock so I could buy one. If not, I was going to weld it myself (but would have to remove powdercoating with no way to replicate it exactly). Instead of selling me a new one, they want me to send it back to them and they will make the repair and powdercoat it for free! What is this world coming to when you can't even spend money anymore?!?!
Quoted from Zablon:which way are they? Did you just bend them out away from the cushion?
I adjusted them so the gap was closer. I bent the side of the leaf not touching the standups to close their gaps so a lighter hit would trigger them. So towards the center of the playfield if that makes sense. Mine originally had to be really smacked at full speed to trigger. it was continually missing strikes that should have registered.
Quoted from Calfdemon:I had a similar situation I want to complain about! One of my ACNC wireforms broke recently after having the game over a year. I emailed them a photo and asked them if they had anymore in stock so I could buy one. If not, I was going to weld it myself (but would have to remove powdercoating with no way to replicate it exactly). Instead of selling me a new one, they want me to send it back to them and they will make the repair and powdercoat it for free! What is this world coming to when you can't even spend money anymore?!?!
Same with me, I contacted Spooky and asked to pay for a set of standup target stickers (I have one slightly damaged sticker) and instead they sent me two sets at no cost, the nerve!
Quoted from Zablon:I was fiddling with this yesterday. It seemed from what I could tell the connectors are held together (touching) and the ball hitting spreads them. The foam is wedged against them so they do not activate easily. I am not 100% sure this is how they are set up but the initial look seemed to be like that. If this is how it really is, cutting back a little foam should help the issue.
I would have expected them to have a gap, and ball hit makes the leaf touch, and the foam prevents them from going too far...but... will require some more investigation.
Also, they put the stickers over the top of (rivet?) but it's pointed. These stickers won't last long as there is a huge bump under all these stickers. Normally the rivets are mostly flat inside.
I had to adjust every single leaf switch on my game to make them register without needing a hammer to activate them. They should have been adjusted from the factory (this is a new in box pin afterall, not something off a route). This in addition to fixing numerous mechs that were put together incorrectly and also the right flipper switch needed lots of work to function like its supposed to. My game is a Jan 2021 build.
Quoted from planters49:I had to adjust every single leaf switch on my game to make them register without needing a hammer to activate them. They should have been adjusted from the factory (this is a new in box pin afterall, not something off a route). This in addition to fixing numerous mechs that were put together incorrectly and also the right flipper switch needed lots of work to function like its supposed to. My game is a Jan 2021 build.
That's nothing. You should have been around for Heathkits.
Quoted from PinMonk:That's nothing. You should have been around for Heathkits.
I made a heathkit color TV with remote, and a computer.
Wow! If they only made a pinball machine!!!!!!!!
Quoted from planters49:I had to adjust every single leaf switch on my game to make them register without needing a hammer to activate them. They should have been adjusted from the factory (this is a new in box pin afterall, not something off a route). This in addition to fixing numerous mechs that were put together incorrectly and also the right flipper switch needed lots of work to function like its supposed to. My game is a Jan 2021 build.
The only things I've needed to adjust so far are the 3 left targets and the slingshot. Everything else is working as expected fortunately. While I'm sure my flipper height needs adjusted it seems to play fine as is. I think I have the angle up to 7 though.
Quoted from PinMonk:That's nothing. You should have been around for Heathkits.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Wow! If they only made a pinball machine!!!!!!!!
That's what he was referring to; they did make one!
bally-heathkit-fireball-pinball_1_e68e65aa5aeba32d51829faf72f997ac (resized).jpgQuoted from DanQverymuch:That's what he was referring to; they did make one! [quoted image]
Yeah, that kit was strictly in the realm of "i wish" for me as a kid. We couldn't afford something that extravagant. It had to be one of the most expensive things in the Heathkit line. It'd be cool if Stern went retro and offered kits for a "The Pin" machine. That experience building electronic devices is really useful, so the sooner, the better, especially in the era of the pandemic. Online clubs could spring up around building it.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:That's what he was referring to; they did make one! [quoted image]
If they had one on the showroom floor in redwood city, i might have bought one!
I built quite a few heatkits.
They were awesome!
I wish I had bought a few hundred Heathkits and stored them unbuilt - - they're worth a fortune now!
You can still get your kit groove on, though. One source is PAIA Electronics, and they have expanded from synthesizer and audio projects to all kinds of things they never used to deal in. http://paia.com
Obligatory R&M content: finally retweaked my garage shot. Stuck the tab under the side rail. Moved the one LED to the nearby wire hole. Bent the guide to follow the artwork. I was able to screw all the screws back in the existing holes, as it turned out. Much less rattling rejection now. Sweet!
Quoted from RobF:I'm on the fence for the speaker LEDs. Is the glare when playing as bad as the the pictures/videos seem to show? I didn't have them on my TNA, so I don't have a good reference on what to expect.
I don't notice any glare.. But I also put on ar glass. I think they are a must have. Even the reflection in the non ar glass isn't noticable when playing.
1219201645a_HDR (resized).jpg0119211809 (resized).jpgQuoted from RobF:I'm on the fence for the speaker LEDs. Is the glare when playing as bad as the the pictures/videos seem to show? I didn't have them on my TNA, so I don't have a good reference on what to expect.
I think they are essential. The way it was meant to be. You should probably get them for your TNA.
Quoted from RobF:I'm on the fence for the speaker LEDs. Is the glare when playing as bad as the the pictures/videos seem to show? I didn't have them on my TNA, so I don't have a good reference on what to expect.
The reflection is there on TNA but never noticed it at all until now. Picture shot from my eye level and Im 6'. Highly recommended and will be getting them for my R&M when its gets built.
IMG_1038 (resized).JPGQuoted from Chitownpinball:Some one need to make black mirrors for this game. Its the only way.
I just saw a post in the R&M Facebook groups where a guy fit black mirror blades to his game. He shared a few pics but no detail on where he got the blades.
Yes the speaker lights reflect on the glass, but the position they reflect on (as you can see in the pic) does not interfere with gameplay because the ball is hidden in those areas. While I notice it when I start a game, you don't notice them while playing.
I have the speaker lights on my ACNC and will be getting them on R&M as well. They reflect some, especially in photos, but are not noticible during play. That said, I got a bent plastic from Pinball Life and no more reflection...
Quoted from JustEverett:I just saw a post in the R&M Facebook groups where a guy fit black mirror blades to his game. He shared a few pics but no detail on where he got the blades.
I've been told you can cut the mirror blades to fit with the right tools... May be worth trying for this pin.
Quoted from Jecco74:I've been told you can cut the mirror blades to fit with the right tools... May be worth trying for this pin.
Good lord. I am not cutting $235 black mirrors myself. Do you know a guy?
Quoted from Jecco74:I've been told you can cut the mirror blades to fit with the right tools... May be worth trying for this pin.
Here are two of the three pics he shared.
2AA8F4C8-6120-4B6F-95D2-92A3F046B0E4 (resized).jpeg7778E0AD-B7B0-49C7-B9EA-7DE3DAF9856B (resized).jpegQuoted from Jenniebear:Has anyone bought the blades from Pingraffix? I would like to see them installed.
eh, normally I like their stuff, but those look pretty uninspired.
Quoted from Zablon:those look pretty uninspired.
There isn’t much to pick from on this game. The Spooky ones are very dark.
Quoted from Jenniebear:There isn’t much to pick from on this game. The Spooky ones are very dark.
I agree. They could have continued the landscape with hills and the crystals. Powerbladez with glowing crystals all over might be cool as well. Other than that..not sure.
SpookyCharlie
TheNoTrashCougar
wondering if it would be possible to have a setting in the code that dims or turns off the speaker lights during game play - similar to the Stern setting that dims the backbox lights during gameplay
Quoted from McDoom:I just paid off my game. It should be coming this month. Can’t wait!!
Any tips for a new owner?
Yes, read ALL the key posts on the top of this thread.
My friend just came and took away my Game of Thrones to make room for R&M. Paid my invoice two and a half weeks ago, hoping to get a shipping confirmation any day now. Extremely excited to get this game up and flipping!
Pre-bought the silent fan kit, some cabinet leg protectors, extra bushings, anti-rattle tape, and the subwoofer insulation ring. And awaaay we go!
After you deal with the glass rattle (I used the zip ties and they worked great) the biggest rattler in the game is the ship mech since it is directly above the sub. Due to it's construction there isn't a good way to prevent it from rattling that I've seen yet. I did wrap the bottom edges of it with electrical tape so it doesn't bang against the end of the mech and that stopped some of it. You can't really do much else without it binding up.
Quoted from avanwinkle:My friend just came and took away my Game of Thrones to make room for R&M. Paid my invoice two and a half weeks ago, hoping to get a shipping confirmation any day now. Extremely excited to get this game up and flipping!
Pre-bought the silent fan kit, some cabinet leg protectors, extra bushings, anti-rattle tape, and the subwoofer insulation ring. And awaaay we go!
Nice job getting a head of the curve, and from reading along to be able to do what you need to do, instead of needing your hand held when the time comes!
Quoted from avanwinkle:My friend just came and took away my Game of Thrones to make room for R&M. Paid my invoice two and a half weeks ago, hoping to get a shipping confirmation any day now. Extremely excited to get this game up and flipping!
Pre-bought the silent fan kit, some cabinet leg protectors, extra bushings, anti-rattle tape, and the subwoofer insulation ring. And awaaay we go!
Mind sharing the link for the subwoofer insulation rung? Thanks!
Quoted from CashMoney:Mind sharing the link for the subwoofer insulation rung? Thanks!
Atrend S10 10-Inch Woofer Spacer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0013NWD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_hzSOVd5EQXAWn
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