Quoted from Manic:

I've spent a blistering hour or three on "tweaking". Changed the flipper rubbers and replaced the fan that sounded like a Concord landing in the living room.
I "could" fool around with some of the guides but it's playing damn good so I figure I'll wait.
.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

How does JJP manage to?
Why does PBL keep selling only the other style?
I have 3 JJP machines and have owned 5 total and never had it break.
Locktite? Why?

Quoted from JustEverett:

I've probably spent ~5-6 hours including: adjusting both the garage shot and upper loop guide rails, full replacement of rubbers to titans, and fixing the bushing on my right flipper. I'm still fairly new to pinball, but it's all been similar to what I've done with other games. Seems like there is always something that bothers me enough to require a little tweaking.

Quoted from cooked71:

I think he was having trouble loading the latest code on a very early build game that had very early code so thought he would try incremental updates to see if that might work.

Quoted from epthegeek:

The code update completely replaces the game code - incremental does nothing.

Quoted from Magicchiz:

I too am looking for a older code. We picked up a very early game and the new code is not loading. even with trying twice.
Tried all sort of different usb drives.
Game just says update required.
Magicchiz

Quoted from JohnDeere:

There are some different methods for the garage shot rail adjustments with some ending up scratching the playfield or being implemented by spooky later on. Have we had a post that says what to try and achieve over all for these? I seem to get some bricks on the garage shot opening i would love to solve but it seems like multiple approaches are covered.

Quoted from epthegeek:

I just don't understand why anyone would want to go backwards. There have been significant fixes in every public release thus far.

Quoted from Manic:

Some muscular minion at Spooky had cranked the connectors down so hard that getting them off the power supply was one of the tougher things I had to do lately.

Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I don't know. I bet they wonder how we manage to make such good playfields.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

I think I win the award for weirdest place to lose the ball! I lost a ball under the playfield during play. In a multiball I saw 2 balls collide, one go airborne, and fly down the left side between the apron and the side rail. I never would have found it if I wasn't watching closely.

Quoted from Manic:

Looks nice but I assume that dustbuster whine is the game's original power supply fan and not your mod right? Hearing that whine brought it all back again! Vic's fan kit is a MUST but getting the power supply out with the PF in the way killed my back with the contortions I had to make
Some muscular minion at Spooky had cranked the connectors down so hard that getting them off the power supply was one of the tougher things I had to do lately.
.

Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I don't know. I bet they wonder how we manage to make such good playfields.

Quoted from epthegeek:

It's a public build. No real harm in it. I just don't understand why anyone would want to go backwards. There have been significant fixes in every public release thus far.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think it'd be common for someone to want to revert if prior releases worked and latest does not. Not saying it's likely the issue but if prior upgrades worked and the latest doesn't then it seems like a reason.

Quoted from TireFryer426:

The second is with the horseshoe. Mine seems to have a little wobble on the left side that will result in a SDTM if I hit the right side hard.
Intended or no?

Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Latest code works fine. Eric wouldn’t release an update that doesn’t work. Op needed a different usb stick. There is a huge variability in these sticks. Some work right away and others are not detected for some reason. When you find one that works just keep using it.

Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Latest code works fine. Eric wouldn’t release an update that doesn’t work. Op needed a different usb stick. There is a huge variability in these sticks. Some work right away and others are not detected for some reason. When you find one that works just keep using it.

Quoted from Zablon:

If you ask me the main problem is it shouldn't be rocket science and have to order a specific USB stick from a galaxy far away to update a game. Why do pinball manufacturers seem to have more of an issue with this than any other device that uses USB?

Quoted from mrbillishere:

That last bit is sage advice. I (we?) have been dealing with this ever since Stern gave us the ability to flash code via USB and dealing with it is just part of the penalty we pay for these luxury toys.
I literally have a bag of different ones marked with the type of machine they work on. You just never know what'll work, be it a tradeshow POS freebie or one you bought at BB for thirty bucks, there seems to be no rhyme nor reason.
I was going to post links to ones I know are reliable but sadly (at least on Amazon) they're NLA because the world has moved far beyond 8GB flash drives. Folks may do best to see what's available at their local supermarket as they tend to have older stock sometimes. If it helps, I'm having great success with Patriot and Transcend.

Quoted from razorsedge:

I was over at the pub so I whipped out the verniers for a bit of a survey of TNA while I was there.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Then back at the workshop I took the same pics for RaM.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
TNA playfield is about 1/16" thicker, but with less plies.
Both games are fitted with playfield protectors that are 0.70mm.
RaM flipper bushes have been trimmed by 1.5mm (about 1/16"). This made an extremely noticeable difference to how well the flippers worked.
Both games flip beautifully.
I identified (confirmed) a while ago that the left RaM flipper is not sitting quite square because the bat is not moulded exactly square to the shaft. It still works just fine though.
So, my bats are now 2.2mm or so closer to the play surface, than a box game with the original bushings that does not have a protector.
*BTW Anyone considering a "Playfield Protectors" protector, they don't fit without a whole bunch of trimming. I emailed them with basic details of the half dozen or more places where changes were obviously made (from early prototype I assume) and where fairly dramatic changes are needed. I offered to send detailed pics, but I have never heard back from them.

Quoted from lapean111:

I am an idiot, and just shorted something out while adjusting my pop bumper switch. Now, my left flipper, left drop reset, drop, and garage flasher, and probably some other things stopped working. Can anyone tell me which fuse needs to be replaced? Also, did this game come with extra fuses?

Quoted from lapean111:

Found the blown fuse, can anyone tell me the spec for the fuse?
EDIT:
Its a 250v T4AL (So 4amp slow blow). Found a pack of them on Amazon.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Ace hardware has them and there are a number in St. Paul. Some are open until 9pm. BUSS fuses in a yellow package.

Quoted from lapean111:

Thanks man! Will run tomorrow, the time of night at which I should be driving has past due to today's celebrations.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I just realized that this is R&M and it uses the shorter fuses. I don't think Ace carries the short 20mm ones.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I just realized that this is R&M and it uses the shorter fuses. I don't think Ace carries the short 20mm ones.

Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

Quoted from JohnDeere:

I understand and take part in the conversation for things like shot adjustments but the amount of times it just devolves into petty whining and finger pointing about things is a bummer. I feel like spooky being so active and helpful in here makes some be even more abrasive for whatever reason, because they know its seen. Being in the TWD thread for years we had nothing but issues (STDM drains from the pops(!), bricked shots to riot, Well walker breaking, prison doors not registering hits, roll overs not working for skill shot, no lighting in bicycle girl, rail adjustments for shooter lane and barn shot, crossbow constantly breaking and bricking the game, etc etc) but at the end of the day we knew it was a good game and it was fun to fix and tinker to make it perfect, not an opportunity to constantly call out Stern for something. Pinball is hard, all the games play different and everyone will not have it set perfectly the same as they did play testing. Just a few degrees off will make a rail reject or a shot be off that may of tested fine. This is ok, thats why its fun to own these things so you can dial it in. God forbid my game came out of the box with no improvements I could make, whats the fun in that?

Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

Quoted from Soulstoner:

I agree that it’s a shame people use this thread as a sounding board for their issues and complaints, especially when they direct them at spooky employees specifically.
However, I disagree because where else would owners vent their frustrations? And unlike other companies, Spooky actually has a presence here, taking feedback, and answering questions, which they’ve been applauded for on many occasions. As long as it’s constructive, I wouldn’t classify it as whining and is totally welcome.

Quoted from JohnDeere:

I tried to use the rail adjustment to differentiate between 'constructive' and whining but to clarify I 100% agree with you on posts that gave us things like rail adjustments, leg warping, code bugs, etc that have given spooky a ton of good feedback that they have taken and ran with. 99% of the posts on here are like that, but sometimes it turns into just straight up attacks or off handed remarks about X thing that should never of passed QC or how i paid all this money and I should never have to change things blah blah. That's just toxic and makes it so we wont have Spooky be in here as often, its also why if you notice most companies don't bother.

Quoted from Rockytop:

I got my game last night and could use some help with flipper coil settings.
Hitting the left ramp is a bit of a challenge. I can hit it on the fly, but from a cradle I don't have enough juice with factory settings.
Generally speaking, what coil settings are you all using? (Obviously the pitch of the game has a big impact on this) I'm just tying to get an idea of what most people are doing.
I'm sure this has been discussed, but I haven't read the whole thread.

Quoted from Lounge:

There is a setting for a ball save time on horseshoe - I set mine to 2 seconds.

Quoted from Rockytop:

I got my game last night and could use some help with flipper coil settings.
Hitting the left ramp is a bit of a challenge. I can hit it on the fly, but from a cradle I don't have enough juice with factory settings.
Generally speaking, what coil settings are you all using? (Obviously the pitch of the game has a big impact on this) I'm just tying to get an idea of what most people are doing.
I'm sure this has been discussed, but I haven't read the whole thread.

Quoted from jonesjb:

I thought this might be the case, I suspect this is a common occurrence, it won’t likely be visible to most unless you look close and run your hand to feel the clear peeling away.
At least it’s in a location in the back and easily corrected with a cliffy. Have others seen this? To be clear, this isn’t a manufacturing defect or anything, just looking for added preventative protection to the playfield in a vulnerable spot.

Quoted from razorsedge:

I noticed it as I seen a "curl" of clear that lifted from the bevel where the bashing happens at the left side of the hole. The curl still being attached at one end, prior to it now having broken off. I noticed it through the garage floor with the game completely together, only the glass was off.
I am currently engineering myself a mantis style protector to fit inside the hole ... also considering how to stop the right orbit portal shot leaping straight across that big hole and coming back down the garage lane so often.

Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

Quoted from razorsedge:

So I removed the subway yesterday, what I found in the subway was half dozen or so decent sized slivers of clear that seem to have flaked off from the bevel of the portal hole, from where the ball bashes hard at it.
[quoted image]
So I came up with a "mantis" style hole protector to help things.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
It's just some 2-1/2" milk tube, with 1mm SS sheet fabricated so that there are four mounting holes. 2 surplus screws that used to be in ball guides along with 2 that already held the subway, keeping it firmly in place.