Quoted from northerndude:Kitkland meeseeks for score divisors, regular for multipliers
Nah, salty meeseeks divide.... Kirklands just do Nothing Lol 
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Topic Gallery
Auckland
Ogden, UT
Quoted from mariobeans:Any reason why spooky didn't use spring washers with their coil stops?
On the screws? Ya I can't figure that out either. Locktite? Weird.
Quoted from harryhoudini:On the screws? Ya I can't figure that out either. Locktite? Weird.
Well I noticed all my solenoids would wiggle a bit and after adding spring washers around the coil stop if fixed the gap and now there is no movement with the coil
Quoted from mariobeans:Well I noticed all my solenoids would wiggle a bit and after adding spring washers around the coil stop if fixed the gap and now there is no movement with the coil
I also don't get why the flipper adjustment screws aren't like JJP. Only needing one tool to tighten with the captive washer/nut that has one side trimmed down. I don't see these item options on PBL, which I thought supplied most of their parts, so it seems like maybe they are sourcing some of these outside of PBL. I am probably going to do some surgery on the flipper mechs, if not just replace them, and trim the bushings at the same time. Something still feels off even after so much adjustment and new sleeves. I think that might be also related to your findings.
Quoted from mariobeans:You seem to be referring to the washer and screw that bolts the coil stop... anyways I noticed all my solenoids would wiggle a bit and after adding spring washers around the coil stop it fixed the gap and now there is no movement with the coil
Quoted from harryhoudini:I also don't get why the flipper adjustment screws aren't like JJP. Only needing one tool to tighten with the captive washer/nut that has one side trimmed down. I don't see these item options on PBL, which I thought supplied most of their parts, so it seems like maybe they are sourcing some of these outside of PBL. I am probably going to do some surgery on the flipper mechs, if not just replace them, and trim the bushings at the same time. Something still feels off even after so much adjustment and new sleeves. I think that might be also related to your findings.
What would you replace them with? Do you know which bushings spooky is sending out? Do they have to make custom? I'd prefer just to order some asap because pretty much all rubbers are getting destroyed except superbands, but I've seen complaints of superbands causing more spin to the balls which I do notice.
Also are you're flippers getting knocked down about 40% after being hit by the center scoop? Are the solenoids just weak (high hold)? Hoping I can just try coils from a different manufacturer, but I know nothing about coil compatibility.
Newport
Quoted from harryhoudini:I also don't get why the flipper adjustment screws aren't like JJP. Only needing one tool to tighten with the captive washer/nut that has one side trimmed down..
I don't like that type of clamping screw, I've had quite a few of those break before they're anywhere near tight enough to stop the flipper moving. Give me an Allen bolt with nut anytime.
Quoted from mariobeans:What would you replace them with? Do you know which bushings spooky is sending out? Do they have to make custom? I'd prefer just to order some asap because pretty much all rubbers are getting destroyed except superbands, but I've seen complaints of superbands causing more spin to the balls which I do notice.
Also are you're flippers getting knocked down about 40% after being hit by the center scoop? Are the solenoids just weak (high hold)? Hoping I can just try coils from a different manufacturer, but I know nothing about coil compatibility.
After lowering my 2 bottom flipper bushings, the knock down isn't as common/annoying. Didn't lower my upper flipper yet and the knock down is more annoying...when I nail the right orbit/loop and the ball comes flying back at the upper flipper.
Question for people with other Spooky titles: Is the flipper knock down a problem on other Spooky games?
Quoted from snaroff:After lowering my 2 bottom flipper bushings, the knock down isn't as common/annoying. Didn't lower my upper flipper yet and the knock down is more annoying...when I nail the right orbit/loop and the ball comes flying back at the upper flipper.
Question for people with other Spooky titles: Is the flipper knock down a problem on other Spooky games?
Knockdown was an issue with TNA early on because of the scoop firing at full power directly at the right flipper. I mitigated it with software, but I am going to have to try the lowering of the bushings and see if that helps even more. I know on my game it is not an issue, but the different games seem to all have different results. This is pretty neat and helpful to read what you guys are finding here. Thanks!
--Scott
Quoted from harryhoudini:I also don't get why the flipper adjustment screws aren't like JJP. Only needing one tool to tighten with the captive washer/nut that has one side trimmed down. I don't see these item options on PBL, which I thought supplied most of their parts, so it seems like maybe they are sourcing some of these outside of PBL. I am probably going to do some surgery on the flipper mechs, if not just replace them, and trim the bushings at the same time. Something still feels off even after so much adjustment and new sleeves. I think that might be also related to your findings.
We switched styles because we were often unable to get the other style tight enough without them breaking.
Quoted from mariobeans:Well I noticed all my solenoids would wiggle a bit and after adding spring washers around the coil stop if fixed the gap and now there is no movement with the coil
Great idea mariobeans That might help minimize the flipper hum too - do you know which washers size we should you use, I may try this.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Knockdown was an issue with TNA early on because of the scoop firing at full power directly at the right flipper. I mitigated it with software, but I am going to have to try the lowering of the bushings and see if that helps even more. I know on my game it is not an issue, but the different games seem to all have different results. This is pretty neat and helpful to read what you guys are finding here. Thanks!
--Scott
Thanks for the background, Scott. I appreciate your perspective/help!
Now that I've dialed-in the inner loop/diverter (and can get the ball from the right orbit->upper flipper
, it's really noticeable how prone to knockdown my upper flipper is. Since the ball isn't traveling at full power VUK type of speeds, this surprised me. If you guys can mitigate this with some software tweaking, it would be awesome (or tell me how to tweak my flippers). This isn't a huge issue...all under the heading of trying to optimize my build to fully realize the design point you were shooting for!
Quoted from snaroff:Question for people with other Spooky titles: Is the flipper knock down a problem on other Spooky games?
This isn't an issue with ACNC
Quoted from SpookyLuke:We switched styles because we were often unable to get the other style tight enough without them breaking.
How does JJP manage to?
Why does PBL keep selling only the other style?
I have 3 JJP machines and have owned 5 total and never had it break.
Locktite? Why?
Quoted from mariobeans:What would you replace them with? Do you know which bushings spooky is sending out? Do they have to make custom? I'd prefer just to order some asap because pretty much all rubbers are getting destroyed except superbands, but I've seen complaints of superbands causing more spin to the balls which I do notice.
Also are you're flippers getting knocked down about 40% after being hit by the center scoop? Are the solenoids just weak (high hold)? Hoping I can just try coils from a different manufacturer, but I know nothing about coil compatibility.
As far as I understand the bushes are just shorter, so I'm just going to chop mine down. Seems the height isn't really much of an issue unless they are too tall. Slightly shorter shouldn't bother much to my untrained, unprofessional eye. They are making "custom" ones as far as I know.
I think your knockdown might be related to either scoop eject power and/or EOS adjustment. I *think* the EOS helps with flipper hold power but now I can't remember between the discussions here and the multimorphic slack. Also there is a hold setting in the menu, turn it up to high.
Coils seem to be based on windings (how many wraps and individual windings). I'm guessing slight changes to the number of wraps could be ok, but I'm planning to screw around with that unless someone knowledgable (maybe Eric or Scott) wants to suggest alternate coils. I have a few different B/W and JJP options here I might just test.
Sydney
Quoted from Bearcat:Any suggestions where to buy a flipper trough or backboard LED strip?
If you want to be the 2nd beta tester PM me and I can send you at cost. Haven't listed them yet but they will be in production this week.
Quoted from cooked71:Does ACNC have a scoop that fires directly at the flippers?
Not as straight on as TNA & R&M. The scoop fires at the right flipper but from the left side of the game. Either hold the flipper up and it will tip over (or sometimes drain), or live catch the ball when it comes to the right flipper.
I ended up wrapping some mylar around the edge of the hole in the garage. Given the ball really whips around the right orbit, I wanted to prevent the clear from cracking and the wood from chewing up. I checked and it doesn't look like a Cliffy exists for this, but I think there'd be a bit of interest if Cliffy made a protector available.
How are other's playfields holding up in this area?
Quoted from jonesjb:I ended up wrapping some mylar around the edge of the hole in the garage. Given the ball really whips around the right orbit, I wanted to prevent the clear from cracking and the wood from chewing up. I checked and it doesn't look like a Cliffy exists for this, but I think there'd be a bit of interest if cliffy made a protector available.
How are other's playfields holding up in this area?
Mine looks like new. I doubt that area will wear at all...no need for a Cliffy. Over the years, I've really moved away from Cliffies unless absolutely necessary. So many scoops shoot like crap with Cliffies installed (STTNG Neutral Zone, KISS VUK, DILE Phone Scoop, etc.). In my home, there just isn't enough play to cause much wear, and I'd prefer the game to shoot well...
Quoted from jonesjb:I checked and it doesn't look like a Cliffy exists for this, but I think there'd be a bit of interest if cliffy made a protector available.
I'd make a cliffy if I had my game to take measurements. I assume Scott could make some up since he has the CAD data.
I had some ship mounts fabbed in fatigue resistant 301 stainless. Posted it as a reply to a R&M facebook group because I didn't want to advertise (and I would think Spooky would want to do the same if they are having to keep replacing them).
rnm_stainless_ship_mount (resized).jpg
Quoted from toyotaboy:I'd make a cliffy if I had my game to take measurements. I assume Scott could make some up since he has the CAD data.
I had some ship mounts fabbed in fatigue resistant 301 stainless. Posted it as a reply to a R&M facebook group because I didn't want to advertise (and I would think Spooky would want to do the same if they are having to keep replacing them).
[quoted image]
Are you making these available?
Quoted from cooked71:Does ACNC have a scoop that fires directly at the flippers?
There is a scoop on the left side that fires at the right flipper. The launch orbit comes around pretty fast and hits the left flipper as well. Probably not the same velocity but have never had the flippers on ACNC get knocked back either way.
Quoted from toyotaboy:I can.. I have 5 left from the dozen I made (already got 2 PM's since I posted that).
Price?
And those 5 sold out.
Starting a list so I can make a larger batch:
1 - calfdemon
1- gac
1- jonesjb
1 - mikes
1- docquest
1 - USMCSGT0331
1 - attack7
1- monkfe
1 - kidchrisso
1 - jigz
1- estrader
1- eagle14
1- cooked71
1- SR230CC
1- loumatt
1- pinbalt
1 - Jherre6
1 - dendoc
1 - Soulstoner
1 - Chisox
1 - goingincirclez
1- bemmett
1- db666
1- JustEverett
1- pinballinreno
1- cheeks
1- ezeltmann
1- Ramrod215
Added over 3 years ago:1- tigerlaw
Added over 3 years ago:1- JSpeights
1 - hocuslocus
1 - jguzik420
Added over 3 years ago:1 - Pinzap
Added over 3 years ago:1 - msw
Added over 3 years ago:1 - Hjbondar
Added over 3 years ago:1 - dancosta
Added over 3 years ago:1- pdxmonkey
Added over 3 years ago:2 - slawnski
Added over 3 years ago:2 - slawnski
Added over 3 years ago:1 - boatshoe
Added over 3 years ago:1 - Chitownpinball
Quoted from toyotaboy:And those 5 sold out.
Starting a list so I can make a larger batch:
1 - calfdemon
1- gac
1- jonesjb
1 - mikes
Please add me to the list, I'll take one if you make more
I'd be in for one too, toyotaboy - thanks!
Quoted from toyotaboy:I'd make a cliffy if I had my game to take measurements. I assume Scott could make some up since he has the CAD data.
I had some ship mounts fabbed in fatigue resistant 301 stainless. Posted it as a reply to a R&M facebook group because I didn't want to advertise (and I would think Spooky would want to do the same if they are having to keep replacing them).
Can you explain this a bit more. I don’t have Rick and Morty yet, so I’m not 100% sure what this solves. Thanks!
Quoted from toyotaboy:And those 5 sold out.
Starting a list so I can make a larger batch:
1 - calfdemon
1- gac
1- jonesjb
1 - mikes
1- docquest
1 - USMCSGT0331
1 - attack7
1- monkfe
1 - kidchrisso
1 - jigz
Add me please (assuming youll ship to OZ).
Quoted from damadczar:Can you explain this a bit more. I don’t have Rick and Morty yet, so I’m not 100% sure what this solves. Thanks!
In the garage there is a large hole, the edge of this hole gets hit by the ball when it goes at high velocities, and over time may chip away at the corners.
Yep mine has the clear peeling away in a curl from the bevel of the hole, where it has been getting bashed by the ball drops. It won't take long to get bad... needs a cliffy. Might be tricky to make universal though with the apparent variability of ball guide screw placement.
As far as the ship plastic made of metal, no need whatsoever here it's great with the factory part. Just have it installed appropriately.
Quoted from jonesjb:In the garage there is a large hole, the edge of this hole gets hit by the ball when it goes at high velocities, and over time may chip away at the corners.
I thought he was referring to the stainless car/ship base that is a replacement for the stock perspex on that always breaks?
Ie: this thing:
new ufo (resized).jpg
Replaces this thing:
stock ugfo1 (resized).png
Lethbridge, AB
Quoted from toyotaboy:And those 5 sold out.
Starting a list so I can make a larger batch:
1 - calfdemon
1- gac
1- jonesjb
1 - mikes
1- docquest
1 - USMCSGT0331
1 - attack7
1- monkfe
1 - kidchrisso
1 - jigz
1- estrader
1- eagle14
1- cooked71
1- SR230CC
1- loumatt
1- pinbalt
1 - Jherre6
1 - dendoc
Count me in for one to Canada please!
Quoted from toyotaboy:And those 5 sold out.
Starting a list so I can make a larger batch:
1 - calfdemon
1- gac
1- jonesjb
1 - mikes
1- docquest
1 - USMCSGT0331
1 - attack7
1- monkfe
1 - kidchrisso
1 - jigz
1- estrader
1- eagle14
1- cooked71
1- SR230CC
1- loumatt
1- pinbalt
1 - Jherre6
1 - dendoc
Yes please! Thanks.
Quoted from dendoc:And me for the Aussie batch. We can probably have them sent over in 1 batch then organise postage from here.
I don't mind the postage to Oz with an item that small over stuffing around to re-distribute on arrival here.
To be the voice of...well the opposite, I can't imagine that actually looks good? Needs some paint or artwork on it. Too much of it shows to be just a big chunk of metal. I suppose maybe the crystal mod in front might cover it up some?
That being said, it does seem it might be necessary.
Quoted from goingincirclez:I know it's been discussed, but that type of plastic really isn't designed to flex. For the trouble of switching to a more elastic plastic, I have to suspect a piece of die-cut spring steel in the same shape, would work a lot better and last almost forever. To preserve cosmetics they could laminate it with a mylar sticker of the same art currently beneath the transparent part.
Great work on the steel hinge @toyotaboy! Put me down for one... And if I had my game, I'd work on the sticker!
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