Quoted from manadams:#206 here, this game is worth getting just for the Plumbus tilt, so excited!!!
"When the Plumbus is jostled, the chumbles are agitated." 
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Love the way the multiball starts with the two balls falling to each flipper, then the scoop shoots the third ball between them as they're falling
The crystals look great as well!
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Don’t break your arm jerking yourself off...
Love that call out in the game! It was even funnier that it happened when Charlie was playing.
High score callout .... came up from Charlie entering "Spooky" as high score Lol
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:Better name for this thread would have been Wubba-Lubba-Dub-Club
Instead of "Wubba lubba dub ... " (I am in great pain, please help me) .....
I thought "Totes Malotes" would have been fitting 
(Totally Bad-ass) 
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:I thought someone posted the dimensions after it was shown ready to be boxed at spooky.
Not 100% sure but I think it was Luke maybe.
Anyone here remember that?
Should maybe be a key post?
I do recall the height being quoted in "hands" ?
Quoted from goingincirclez:It's a really tough call isn't it? Both work really well. The black trim blending with the artwork sky makes it look integrated as opposed to "afterthought".
Another thing to love about this company is how they shared the color name / recipe a while back. So you can always go purple later on, even if you don't decide until after delivery. And as a standard buyer I appreciate being grated the potential ability!
Personally I'm thinking black trim but purple legs - both as respectively integrated extensions of the cabinet art - could be pretty sweet.
Yeah tough choice. I'm going with the "if in doubt, max it out!" Lol
Black I would generally prefer for several reasons, but I think the purple looks better overall, here's why ....
The black matches the dark sky on the font of the cab so the sky blends together with the door, but the door contrasts with the lower front of the cab. This makes it look kinda half and half, slightly odd. Like there is part of the landscape missing, and the black sky strangely extends down beyond the horizon. Just looks a little wierd due to the sky being black as well.
With the purple, the door is contrasted against the entire front, allowing it to have a "hovering" or "in front of" kinda look. Like as if the Sky And Landscape are Both "behind" the coin door. Looks more.... complete, tidy, right. Also, every other bit of trim on the game including legs and speaker panel are purple, and it seems to make the black door look a bit more out of place.
I'd like to see how it looks with purple frame and black door. But to achieve that I'd just go standard full purple door and get a spare black door to bolt in (even just for the chance the purple door panel could get kneed in on site).
Purple door option I think....
Is there the possibility for Morty to go "off the grid" when playing "Roy - a life well lived"?... like Rick does.
Like a single lit White Shot, in only one phase through Roy, that takes you off grid!
Quoted from Coindropper:From what Eric said on the stream, there are “Rick” shots that can take Roy off the grid. Off the top of my head, I think it was a meseeks box shot or something that will light the Rick shot (I could be wrong, but I know he said something would briefly light it).
Thanks!
This game is going to be pretty good ......
"Totes Malotes, Dawg!"
Quoted from Tsskinne:Finally got a good one. Filled up adventure card and visited enough dimensions to get an extra ball![quoted image][quoted image]
What happened when you got to ten (Tenth ? ) adventures? . How did that work? ... any choices? , multiball adventure? , Morty quotes?
Quoted from Whysnow:guessing most posts you are thinking of are either cliffy stlye which dont wear, but only get dirty?
or Stern style which are harder (almost plastic like rubber) that are black so you dont realize.
These are a silicone type material. A bit softer but nice feel to them.
I prefer a cliffy type material for route, but those are thicker. Wish cliffy made a slightly thinner OD style.
Superbands do slim eurethane post sleeves in a variety of colours...
Quoted from kermit24:Those post rubbers look like the pinball life brand silicone which seem softer than the superbands type material. I’m not a huge fan of them because the seem to wear much earlier.
Eurethane is a tougher and harder material than silicone. More resistant to tearing. Superbands are made of Eurethane, or equivalent.
Silicone is a quite different material. The "feel" may be preferable for some, but the material is just not as durable. It gets nicked or pinched more easily. Nicks or flaws can tear more readily. It is softer and probably closer to the effect of softer rubber. "Grip" is a whole other discussion. Afaik Titans are Silicone.
These days I use almost exclusively Superbands
I might still consider using silicone or actual rubber though, on some older slower paced SS games.
Quoted from mbasnight:My buddy went to tilt to play R&M and got the ball lodged good in a spot. Tilted the game and it didn’t budge the ball. Not sure if it was fluke or not because he’s not a pinhead (but I hyped up the game so much he wanted to check it), but I wanted to upload a pic I made of where he told me it got stuck. I wish he took a real pic of it.[quoted image]
No matter how many hangups are identified and sorted... ther is always one! Lol
I wonder if Eric can deal with such a rare occurence by having the ship coil fire to dislodge that ball during ball search?
1 week later
Quoted from SpookyLuke:Every Rick and Morty we have built has dual leaf switches for staged flippers. I would assume someone mistakenly saw the single leaf switch for the magnet.
Is there any more details or clarification about the fuse issue preventing the magnet and Right flipper activation together?
I had thought this as well. Why wouldn't the launch have been able to full plunge into portal. This would make the game capable of reloading its staged re-entry ball .... if nothing else it could make sense just for this, but would have wanted a regular plunger for the skill shots.
If that's all there is to pick on... well that's pretty damn good! ... and the way it turned out is fine anyway... means we won't be needing to clutch a plumbus to squanch the ball!
Quoted from gac:Maybe don't count the lowest 10 and highest 10 ratings in the overall rating. Maybe 10 isnt the right number but that would eliminate the extremes in the rating process.
10 is good! ... 10%.
Strike out the top and bottom 10%.
Quoted from wesman:Phrasing it as trading down is confusing.
I think you're trying to say you have spot 231 and would like a spot under that, i.e. sooner, and if someone wants your spot, that has sub 231, let you know.
Totally. Mos people I think would call going to an earlier number "Trading Up".
Seeing a pic of how the diverter is set up kinda explains to me why the orbit is a bit clunky at the top ... 
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Is it possible for the ball to hit those diverter fasteners??
That is the bit I was looking at. Shoot spinner - Ball hits screws - Rattles. Even if it doesn't hit the screws, it kinda looks like the ball can hit the leading edge of the ball guide by the pivot of the diverter.
I can not quite understand why the diverter could not have created a bit smoother/more even ball path. Can see how the ball guide bend helps stop the ball hitting that rattle ... but what happens with the right orbit then?
Instead of the bend in the ball guide, I'll probably be looking into the diverter for my game. Shim/spacer between the flap and the shaft with countersinking of the holes and countersunk screws. Two fold, bring diverter flap into line more with ball guide, and also remove fouling screw heads. Or something like that maybe, if the spinner orbit is not working smoothly.
I guess the "die in a cage" thread title is appropriate for the corona virus environment .... just about due for something a tad lighter, hey Scott?
1 week later
Quoted from tbutler6:Just chatted with Charlie and Bug in Twitch, he said the wire form changes have been implemented. Screws out for flex and other things. Excited for this game...
How do fang club members find this stream?
Quoted from FuryosJustin:I'm in on a standard too, does anyone have a guess at how many standards there are? Between 40-60??
Less than 40 afaik ?
Quoted from dnapac:Curious if it stays on long term. I tried a post rubber and it just fell off after a couple balls.
It will stay on until the point where it rotates and the split is in line with the ball contact... then the ball hitting it would just pop it off.
I've used this method on other games to deaden some hard knocks in designs.
I found that by putting that slit on a decent (diagonal) angle, instead of in line with the hole in the rubber, they tend to stay on there when a ball strikes them as the rubber rotates to all positions.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Though I appreciate all of the inventive suggestions, though I would really like to see Spooky make a permanent improvement to the launcher setup. It feels absurd to have people who just dropped 8k+ on a new game needing to modify something so basic just to get decent performance. I’m optimistic that they’ll tweak the design based on the performance of these early batches. We’ll see....
Would have been better to use the tried and tested wireform guage of 3/16", rather than the quite flimsy looking lighter stuff there, imho.
I kinda cringe at the sugestion of bending powdercoated metal, willy nilly for "tune up", or from the ball bending it.... it isn't going to prolong the integrity of the coating 
Also, after the first time a piece of metal is bent and the grain is broken, every bend or even flex there after is one step weaker that piece of metal becomes. If it is not strong enough to resist bending at the start... that condition is only going to get worse until finally something breaks.
**Not written just to be negative, or have an angsty tone. These are observations and trade knowledge. I guess various tone may be applied depending on reader.
Quoted from FatPanda:It's not really a big deal. Definitely not a game breaker. It's more about making it as consistent as possible (predictable) but it certainly plays nearly as good without. If the wireform is adjusted correctly 9.5/10 times it will launch correctly. This is truly a minor tweak to make up for that .5 times where it might get some extra topspin and roll up into the return shot. It's pinball. Things should be predictable to a certain extent, but the opposite is also true. I'm not sweating it and anyone waiting for their games shouldnt either. This is just a "fine tune."
IF the wire(form) is not substantial enough to maintain its shape or "setting" during gameplay .... well then it will not be consistent, will it. Bending wireform ramps shouldn't be done after powdercoating. They should be made the shape they need to be to work properly, then get the coating. The end.
From someones post earlier, seems the wireform bends from gamplay launches and/or from ball activity during gameplay... if this is accurate then how can there be consistency?
I don't mind tinkering either. I'm a fitter and machinist and tech. But I am not everybody. Also if the wireform is not substantial enough... well that is more than just tinkering, it's replacment.
Quoted from FatPanda:I'm not going to argue with you. Im just explaining why I'm doing the things I'm doing. I am telling you that 95% of the time, the ball will launch correctly. It's pinball. Every new game needs adjustment.
I agree new games it is expected to require Adjustments, of course!. Bending leaf switches is adjustment. Adjusting fittings or adjustable hardware is adjustment. I am drawing the line at Bending wireforms that are powdercoated though. This shouldn't suddenly be called "normal" or required for an 8k pinball machine.
B/W used 3/16" wire for a reason I suppose ....
Some bits are over engineered, some may be under engineered. It happens.
Thin easily bendable wire I suppose makes things a bit less costly... but sometimes I care more about quality....
Not about arguing, just quoting. Merely for reference, and highlighting the issues of bending flexible wire coated in non flexible powdercoat. Completely valid concerns, could keep them to myself but then what is the point of forums?. The wireform looks a bit on the flimsy and weak side, and people are having dramas, supposedly "fixed" (temporarily?) by bending a PowderCoated wireform?
It's fine for me I can just make a bespoke improved wireform (should it come to pass that I need to lateron)... but I am no manufacturer so wouldn't be making one for everybody Lol. Just trying to highlight a potentially bigger issue, early, for the benefit of Everyone, including Spooky!
Quoted from Whysnow:I would like to see either a modification or aftermarket option for a wireform end like this with some modification.
Basically so the ball hits 2 wires and the end. The top wire is slightly closer and directs the ball consistently down to shot delivery.
The wires that the ball rolls on and the single stop ring will need adjustment over time and allow for some inconsistency/ need for tweak by end user based on the pitch and level of their game and shooter delivery speed.[quoted image]
Constructive criticism doesn't mean any of us aren't loving the game Spooky has made... I'm more excited than ever about a Pinball! 
Quoted from dnapac:I haven’t noticed the wireform bending with gameplay...but would admit it does need some refinement. Wife and I have played between 500-600 games. I’d say, more than almost anyone. It’s early. I have an early game because I like the challenge to improve. Those that want a dialed-in game are later. All complainers have no complaint for months to come. Not sure why there’s so much angst...when you’re months out and the early ones are the guinea pigs (me). If anyone can complain...that’s me...and I’m not. This is a winner...and if you don’t think so, there are many waiting for a spot.
Sorry if I seemed "angsty", I'm not. I'm mega excited, and would love to be in early to help with ironing out any kinks, but being overseas I wait in suspense for the group container. Also grateful to all those with games helping out in this regard. I hope that feedback I might give from so many pictures, videos, and text might be of some use, potentially. In the world of pinball, so far this game has a remarkably short list of "issues". Rick and Morty looks to me like it will be one of the GOAT pinball games! .... way to go Spooky! 
Just to help picture my relatively minor concern...
Padded and unpadded proven wire ramp end designs.
.
1fc307d2edcbec3f86ef3c536735b5715a3322f0 (resized).jpg
Rick and morty wire ramp end.
.
The guage isn't the main issue I am seeing. Mostly it is that the ends are unsupported and can bend with airballs or Harder launches, and also vibrate with the nature of the game of pinball. Coupled with the "adjustment" which is likely, fatigue is going to eventuate, the question being time. I fear the wires could later crack at any of the four red marks. I imagine a very simple solution can solve all the existing and potential issues, that would be to add a final half hoop to the end of the wireform, scribbled in purple. It can then be made so that it maintains correct manufacturer (functional) "adjustment" for the life of the game.
0ce1ec4e552d5a8ca2fb1e299dde61fc94671b54 (resized).jpeg
I understand the intention may have been to give a minimalist feel, or to improve visibility?. But, I think the small additional obstruction to the view is needed, more than the tiny amount of extra ball visibility.
Also, for production, the rubber at the end. I wonder if it could be an idea that Spooky might dip the tip of the end hoop in purple dipping plastic/rubber coat? ... this might be to protect from powdercoat chipping as much as anything...
Quoted from jonesjb:epthegeek are you exploring ways to use the horseshoe toy to manipulate a ball in different ways for modes? Or is it pretty much reserved for locks? I’m not sure how you could already be holding balls for multiball for the current or another player.
Quoted from Kevlar:I asked basically this question a few pages back but it went unanswered.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/42#post-5594832
I have been wondering about this too. Heres some of my thought or speculation...
For any adventures to be able to make full use of the horseshoe, they would need to be locked out any time there are balls in lock. Also, locked balls may need to treated like "bank a ball", where if a player drains with a locked ball then their locked ball(s) are released, so that each ball in play ends with empty locks for the next player/ball.
This way, horseshoe modes (adventures) may be started only when no balls are locked.
Would this lead to some players avoiding locks, to go for a chance at some lucrative special adventure?
Competitive players would be happy to see empty locks at the end of each BIP, I'm sure. Although for me I like the stealing locks concept.
Rick and Morty seems to be tough enough that "bank a ball" should not make things too much easier... ?
I really have no idea what will pan out of course. Just thoughts 
The only issue/question I see that I think needs addressing for the Upper Spinner Orbit, besides removing the two guide screws, is the "rattle" that Regularly rejects the ball back down to return through the spinner again. For Sweetly placed valid shots.
Way too regularly I'm watching "perfect" shots to the spinner fly past it and rip it good, only to brick on some aspect of the diverter transition, and finally dribble back to the spinner. Perfect shots should not be rejected with such frequency.
It is in the streams. All of them.
Quoted from dnapac:The adjustments have definitely helped, but 30-40% of the time I rip the spinner the ball gets to the top of the loop and the slowly trickles back. Diverter seems to work fine. Are others guides bent like this and do others have that triangular plastic (laying flat on the playfield). The plastic seems to be protecting the playfield from the diverter, but it sticks out into the lane...is this normal?
[quoted image]
Lol .... yeah, what he said! 
I was looking at the screws in the diverter and or the step from the diverter pivot to the right ball guide that meets with it.
Countersunk screws and a flush surface maybe?
Alignment of diverter with the right ball guide?
It is hard to tell with no physical game present and only pictures, of course.
Quoted from jonesjb:Why is that crimp at the top of the inner orbit, I'm guessing it's necessary? That seems to me what may be causing the rattle at the top of the upper orbit.
My assumption would be that it may be to do with directing the ball path away from that diverter "rough spot" that I described.
Problem I see there is the way things get very unsmooth when the diverter is closed for the right orbit past spinner.
I can't wait to get my game!! ... partly so I can fiddle (I like tinkering lol)
Quoted from jhoward1082:Are anyone else’s post rubbers getting obliterated extremely fast? A couple of mine are already turning black and getting torn up after 2 days...
Switch to urethane. I never looked back, wish I'd discovered the material for pinball rubbers sooner.
Quoted from dnapac:Mine lasted around 500 games. Then I replaced them with Cliffy post sleeves...really loving them.
"SuperBands" are another urethane option. Between Cliffys and Superbands there is a huge variety of shapes and colours available.
Quoted from kklank:Yelobird made the adjustments he talked about earlier on my game and now it plays with some good flow. I’ve had ir for a couple weeks and just finally pulled it out of the box today. It played like a total pig before the adjustments with left and right orbits rattling and not hitting inner loop or very infrequently due to upper flipper not line up properly with the steel guide.
I rarely believe anything you say anyway because you’re always saying how great Spooky is and trying to get everyone else to drink the kool aid. I like Spooky but they gotta straighten this stuff out for the other people down the line because the geometry was not spot on imo. There’s no doubt about it.
I never seen these kind of adjustments made before on a game once purchased but I’m sure Spooky will make those adjustments. They’re good people.
But this should’ve never happened.....
Not all of the adjustments, particularly the more severe ones, are required to make the game play well. At least that is the way it looks to me.
Seems all issues, including the rattles at the diverter, can be rectified with very minor tweaks, including but not limited to leaving out the superfluous screws.
Some of the adjustments pictured and described are simply way over the top and altering the intention of the game, I think. jmho.
Quoted from kklank:Be more specific please. What adjustments are the “severe ones”?
I would say drilling new screw holes ... but it's just from my observation of streams, and knowing what mods had been done to the machine in the given stream.
After removing the surplus screws, adjusting within the boundaries of the guide slotted holes, and maybe some minor tweaking/altering of bends in the guides ... game plays very well.
Only question, the rattling at the diverter maybe. But this looks like it can be made good with a well adjusted ball guide, but might also vary with playfield pitch ....
I'm providing thoughts and feedback. I don't have a game yet so no trials or definitive answers here.
I won't be putting new screw holes in my playfield, that much I know. Just me though.
Removing lights from the playfield because they no longer fit, to me is a distinct sign that things have gone a bit too far .... ?
Quoted from Yelobird:What lights were removed missed that post? Guess you will see when you get your game and set it up to your preference. All anyone is doing is showing you what you can do if you would like to improve it. As for “just removing a screw”, it’s 18ga stainless steel not rubber. Removing a single or over several screws will not make it suddenly bow as a ball passes. Trust me I tried that lol. All good and loving the game now.
Quoted from iepinball:I had to loosen the wood rail to get the post underneath for the curvature I wanted, plus I had to remove one LED :/
8th & 9th pics.
I think you'll find the removing screws is allowing movement you can't notice, but is there.
Consider a hard steel ball on a hard solid steel block. If you drop the ball on it, the ball will bounce. The energy is sent back. No real "give", but the material is still "springy".
Then the same hard steel ball dropped on a hard steel sheet, overhanging and Not supported from below (the impact zone)..... the impact of the ball, the energy, is absorbed in the movement, or "give". A dead blow, that doesn't "bounce" (or bounces Significantly less, at least).
By screwing the fairly thick ball guides down with many screws makes a "rigid" and less giving wall. It is firm, and energy returns to the ball, "bouncing" it off the guide.
Now take a heap of screws out so that some flex can absorb/store energy as the ball impacts, meaning it would bounce less on the guide (if at all), and follow it. The guide returns gradually after the End of Impact, with some energy gradually being returned to the ball on gradual return to shape. ie. less per rate than the centrifugal force holding it against the guide.
Someone else described it quite adequately a few pages back. Repeated here with different words. The impact is dampened, spread. There is a "time" consideration that varies too, absorption, duration, reflection, stuff, things ... Lol
I'm all on board with some screws being deleted, especially when it is endorsed by the engineer responsible for the game.
I don't think radical ball guide alterations are warranted at all.
Quoted from Yelobird:..... I don’t think you’ll see the give you are assuming.
Trust me I am not assuming about that. Period.
As I said, you may Not "See" a difference. But the fact is that there is substantial difference. As is evident as well in the streams/videos, with different playfield setups. The shots to the spinner start to work better as the ball gets less bounce (without the screws). Not me saying that, just physics, and the streams. Just because You Cant see momentary degrees of "flex" doesn't mean it isn't happening (more), and affecting the way the orbit behaves, to the point where it then proves to work more often than not.
Modifying the layout so drastically, to make sooooooo Easy?? ... not the path I'll be going. But that's just my preference. People can do as they desire with their games, ultimately.
Quoted from kklank:So let me get this straight. Do you actually own a game yet?
Or are you just talking from an engineering perspective?
Because if you don’t own a game yet, give it a rest. Seriously.
Where are you from by the way???it doesn’t say under your Avatar. Just want to make sure you’re not another dude from Wisconsin protecting the Spooky name.
Sorry, I did not realise most people couldn't see my location. Fixed
Game or no game does not change the way stuff and things are, mate.
The game stands up fine from what I have seen, without outrageous modification. That's just my reasoned opinion. Love it! ... Can't Wait!!! 
Quoted from kklank:Game or no game? Really?
Good lord.
This is simply ridiculous.
Stop.
Remind me to buy my next game based off your recommendation of what you see in a video. Lmao.
Sorry mate. Not happening.
Having a game or not is irelevant to the question at hand. Take a chill pill there, bud. 
I've paid for a game. Pull your head in.
Quoted from Yelobird:So with your engineer view, can we agree that the #whysnow game Hole is in a Completely Different location to the (3) games we have? Seems pretty obvious to me?
Tbh I haven't followed that aspect of the discussion just yet? .... I was just pointing out that from my observations of stream gameplay, which is no less visibility of flow than real life, just removing the screws alone makes sufficient improvement. That's observation of what happened. The part that is my view, is that it is enough (just removing the screws) to be playable/enjoyable. To me severe alterations, like in the order of half an inch, are "hacks".
If people reason that they want to drill new holes wherever, it is their option to do that. I will just go with the holes provided by Spooky.
I'd have to try to understand what the point is around the image you're talking about ....
Quoted from Yelobird:Totally agree on that rail. No question as its very long and that does help. We are discussing?? the center loop.
Same principle exactly. Just the depth that varies!
Someone else's game?
I'm confused... have we read all the same responses?
I'm not going to speak for origins of stuff and things that other people post.
Railgate! .. 2020's storm in a teacup! Lol
Quoted from Yelobird:Just trying to help others. I tap out. lol Going to watch the Troz gameplay video tonight and see if I can figure out how he gathers so many dam seeds!
Umm ... by making the spinner shot to Charge Portal a Gimme. Next question.
How about if Spooky just make it an option.... one layout for pinballers, and the optional "easy" layout for any seal flippers that want a gimme game.... 
I trust the Spooky team to analyse the thread and other info, be it sense or nonsense ... make any changes they see fit, and deliver us/me another fantastic game!
Quoted from dnapac:Trust me...it’s far from “easy”, and with 17 plus dimensions, I think it’s not suppose to be a rarity to make.
The problem of the shot being made does not appear to be to do with the rail below the spinner (where radical changes have been made), that is improved well enough by removing screws from what I have seen. The rattle at the diverter transition that stops clean shots, is the issue that was remaining in the 14th April stream. That would get frustrating when it happens so often.
I'm confident I will be extremely happy with what I pull out of the Spooky box.
Quoted from Yelobird:Why is it you make this so personal? We are trying to help?? You are free to have your opinion but WE have games so I suspect our facts might be of a bit more value. No? You disagree, thats fine. Really odd how defensive you are about factual help. Not one person said anything bad about the game or company. I sincerely hope Spooky makes minor changes to the build so you don't have to do anything.
It's not personal. It is about Rick and Morty.
I have no problem doing mods. My concern is for any customers that do.
My opinion is the radical rail repositioning is just that... radical. Whom does it? ... I don't care. It's nothing personal.
It could change the difficulty of the gameplay so much that the intention of the coding might be undermined. Scores are no longer comparable. No wonder some people can get dozens of megaseeds and others can not, besides player skill.
I'm guessing, but I suppose the 99 megaseeds is a number that is not intended to be realistically reachable?. Suddenly 99 won't be enough for well practiced players. What would you do to solve this? ... as more often players can collect 495% of their ball score? Lol
Rattling up the top is a different issue, in a different area of the playfield. Radical hacks still not required though.
You are the one making it personal. Unfortunately.
Quoted from epthegeek:It’s the inner loop shot. Lit arrow is blue if you have any. Make the shot and it kills the farthest right local with a bit of bonus points added in.
We did get some insight into defraculation grenades at least! Thank you Eric
Quoted from epthegeek:Yes, but people are pulling the outside rail away, which changes the arc and path of the ball. I’m just saying you should make sure that as the ball rolls on that outer rail it still activates the switch. Software needs the ball to register there in either direction to work right.
878787051bb188d9328ee804a035eacd89a0c246 (resized).jpg
IF the game in the most recent JD stream was modified like this, it could certainly be a plausible explanation for why so many upper orbit shots were not registering.... frequently happened throughout the Stream.
I guess it could also simply have a defective switch ...
e6650669ddc2438de511b16236298bc89c85c81c.jpeg (resized).jpg
If this is the pic that everyone is having a cow over for some reason, to me it looks exactly like the original spooky hole is hidden beneath the bracket. This doesn't seem to be showing the original screw hole, or position. You can even see marks on the playfield through the uncovered slot, not white clean wood. Like where the toe of the flange used to be clamped against the playfield, at original assembly. The old screw hole would be just out of visibility.
That's just what I see compared to all the other stock photos. Most all others are in a very consisten position from what I see. I'm just looking at this picture of kinda unknown origins.
Quoted from jonesjb:That’s your hypothesis. We don’t actually know that there is an original hole there or if these are two different original placements of the screw.
No one is having a cow, we’re asking questions and trying to just understand more.
I was asked what I thought, that's all. What I think, is that it is a picture of a game that has had a screw moved already. That's it. Maybe I'm wrong. Just the observation that was asked for.
People actually are "having a cow" . Assuming, that spooky can't get consistency of better than half inch?.
Or do some people think they were just trying random layout variations/positions? ... after prototype? ... in production? Really?
... and when there is clear evidence that the upper orbit can already be easy enough made 6 times in a row Without making any new screw holes, hmmmm, this layout "redesign" is completely un-necesary. ie, proves to be basicaly achieving nothing additional than what removing screws and minor bending achieves anyway.... pointless.
I digress ...
More likely, the screw in an unexplained spot is just some confused pinsiders, making poorly informed assumptions, about random pictures... whilst making mountains out of molehills. Lol
Quoted from docquest:So many new posts since I was last on. I thought new code came out with new modes or something but it's just more "rail-gate" LOL.
That mystery pic was actually mine from over a month ago that someone else scribbled a bunch if lines on.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/36#post-5549501
It all started when I was trying to see what I could do to make the inner loop shot less clunky. I noticed that the rail had a slotted end so I experimented with moving it all the up vs all the way down. Some were suggesting moving it all the way up to increase the curvature of the rail. I thought that was a very bad idea since it would let the ball hit the exposed metal rail edge and ding up the ball. Based on previous posts it sounds like some pinsiders are experiencing this.
Soon after this, Scott was on Kaneda's show explaining how to provide more flexibility to the rail guide by removing it's two middle tab screws. This helped but in my case it helped even more if I also increased curvature of the rail by moving the bottom mounting tab location just a little bit. Yes I (gasp!), made a new screw hole. I "drastically" and "radically" altered the rail guide position LOL.
[quoted image]
All three of the shots I adjusted (garage, inner loop, upper flipper) seem to follow the same pattern. If the rail follows the artwork on the playfield it shoots much better. Here's an example of my garage shot rail before and after. It shoots way smother when the rail follows the curve of the playfield art.
[quoted image]
Thank you for clearing that up!
A few sceptical pinsiders might now be able to find confidence that Spooky can actually provide consistently positioned screws.
Quoted from jonesjb:Looks like your hypotheses was correct. Well done.
It was evidence based
I'm inspired to go hack up my Getaway to make that pesky upper loop a bit easier!
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:just curious, what's your getaway loop record?
mine is 6 loops and I can honestly say I repeat the loop 2/3 times a lot or with no problem. When its more it always amazes me and feels so great/rewarding because of the speed!
About the same for me!. I had 5 loops but that was beaten some time ago by my mate, it's been 7 for ages! ... and, Exactly! . Challenge, satisfaction when you Do get it within the tight window. Especially when it's for a jackpot. However, get the shot a bit too far off and, although it is well within the opening, it rattles and fails.
It's the same with RaM. If you hit that HS2 upper guide rail in the wrong spot it simply fails. Interesting that loose screws makes HS2 shot more makable as well
If you hit Ram in the wrong spot, of course it will fail too. This is the point. It is the style of opening that the shot has. A shot that looks Super Wide, but really is not. Still easily makable, and repeatable in standard form by removing 2 screws.... just, you aren't supposed to be going to nail that sucker as a given. Same as HS2. The target is not clear, and needs to be learned. Watch a new player try to shoot HS2 upper orbit. It only happens by accident in the first instances.
The satisfaction we are speaking of, rewarding feeling of making the TOUGH shot.... for Most pinball players it would no longer exist, because now we can do it with no eyes like tommy! Lol
It isn't "railgate" either is it, it's more appropriately described as "hackgate" .... since there is nothing that much at all wrong with the rail positions, realistically. From observation. Just people going to extremes to make a game suit themselves. Which is fine (for them).
*to clarify, It Was a Sarcastic comment about hacking the crap out of my getaway, I prefer shots that are intended to be a bit tough in a game, to remain a chalkenge, and remain satisfying for me when I complete them. Just in case anyone Assumed I was maybe Complaining about HS2 layout, I'm not, I love its challenges.
Quoted from kklank:You certainly have all the answers.
... that sounds a bit like the pot calling the kettle black. I'm not actually hacking up a game to make it "right" or "how it should be". Lol
I'm just pointing out what is in my opinion the complete nonsense of it all.
You don't have to concur. You can still do as you wish, of course, as long as every other buyer does not have to recieve a cakewalk game, just to suit what might seem to be a minority "preference".
Maybe the game hack information/posts would be more appropriate in the general RaM thread?
Quoted from kklank:Quoted from TigerLaw:
The first production game has been delivered. Club thread now opened. Abide by club thread rules, keep drama in the hype thread and out of this thread. Stay upbeat and positive. Thanks
That means Not bagging and hacking a game, preaching it's no good out of the box, making radical unnecesary mods and pretending they are going to be essentially needed to make the game "good". That is Rubbish.
Quoted from Yelobird:Just ignor it and Eventually he will find some other crusade. Lol. On that, have you tilted the game Yet?? Funniest tilt in all of pinball!
You say that as if I'm the only person that enjoys a challenge... Lol
You're right... time to -Ignore-
I've said my bit. I'm sure others may have thought about it too, except they're probably smarter than me, and know not to get into debates about academic issues, discussing nonsense, with some whom proclaim to know no better than The Design(er), or science.
Okay then. Carry on
Quoted from Yelobird:Thanks Eric!! Ok I am a bit slow on the good vs bad Meeseeks? I think that is what was tripping me up if anyone knows.
Quoted from epthegeek:Good meeseeks [multiplier] is total number of active meeseeks +1 (good or bad, as long as the one on the shot is good).
Bad meeseeks [divisor] is total number of bad meeseeks +1.
So it seems that All meeseeks contribute to the Multiplier value, but only Bad meeseeks contribute to the Divisor value.
The multiplier/divisor is for only the shot that the meeseek is on.
Don't let all 3 go bad! .... that jackpot might get divided by 4
Quoted from jonesjb:Yes, this is smart because it adequately incentivizes the risk vs reward. The good Meeseeks maintain and build their value, as long as you don’t wait too long.
It would be frustrating to get 3 meeseeks, have two go bad and the remaining good one only be worth 2x. Why even bother? With the way it’s been implemented, this remaining good meeseeks will still give you that 4x value.
So it appears the strategy would be, if you have mixed meeseeks, to shoot the good first as the salty meeseeks still builds to the multiplier. Then collect salty meeseeks once happy meeseeks are collected. Collecting salty meeseeks or drain seems to be the only way to get rid of them. Or .... hit another meseeks box and use the salty sod to boost the new good meeseeks?
Just because an owner is modifying a machine does not automatically mean that whatever "modifications" they may be making are reasonable, or actually required, at all.
To them, they may be "required" so they they can enjoy Their game in their Way, that is their personal choice. Majority of others seem to be having no problem making the shots, at all. Tough games are of course not to the enjoyment of all kinds of players or levels, but at the end of the day this is supposed to be a Tough game. That's all.
Quoted from hawkmoon:So,as we all can see,many owners are already modifying a brand new pin!It seems other adjustments must also be made! And no,I don't have my pin yet,will be next year before #499 hits the assembly line!
Quoted from jhoward1082:I’m curious, considering there will be a minimum of 10 adventures (modes) I’m assuming and hopefully many more than that (fingers crossed) is there any thought to eventually making what adventure you start user selectable instead of always random? It would help a lot with strategy to be able to start total rickall with multiball for example as opposed to roy. It would also allow you to redo adventures and/or avoid other ones. What are other people’s thoughts?
Morty (player) gets to choose every tenth adventure on the Morty Adventure Card. That's how the show goes
I think the number lit on the card at game start has some adjustment?, which setting that to 9 or so may achieve what you desire? ... if when it is supported
Quoted from Yelobird:Man I need to learn how to play better....
Aint that the truth!
Heard a roumour Wisconsin supreme court ruled lockdown invalid? .... does this mean Spooky will be able to get the line running again sometime soon?
1 week later
Phases shifting, thanks to a phaser...
It's like when there's a twin engine aircraft aproaching and the engines are running slightly different revolutions ... amplification/attenuation cycle of certain matched/unmatched frequencies, that can affect note/tone also.
1 week later
Quoted from Blackzarak:Even better news I just got a called today saying it will arrive this Tuesday between 12-4 Ooh yeah.. now I’m debating on keeping it or just selling it to have money and space for the possibility of new JJP pin ...Damm to many good pins coming out this year
Don't do it Jerry!!!
Quoted from Edenecho:Cant read all posts for the last months here, so just asking;
With the physical fixes being done to Rick n Morty after delivery, for example the fixes Karl Deangela has done to make the game play butter smooth, is this fixes that will be now done in production for the games being produced in the factor?
All that is needed, Spooky will be doing.
Quoted from Krsmith9:Without spoilers, I liked the season finale, but I hope they use something else for the final wizard mode. They said they were waiting for end of season to decide what to do for the wizard mode.
How about no one specific "adventure" ... but instead you just start Ricks wizard mode "Rule The Multiverse" ? Lol
.... Rick, Morty, Squanchy and Birdperson!? ... take on The Galactic Federation
Quoted from arzoo:Do we know this for sure, that Spooky has made more aggressive tweaks?
No the "more agressive tweaks" are extra layout modifications made by one or two owners, but not necesary. Spooky and Scott have said they will delete excessive screws.
Refer to post by @dnapac...
Quoted from dnapac:I tried a lot of the fixes. Moved the upper flipper, various movements and fixes to the spinner lane guide, etc. in the end, all that’s needed is the removal of a couple screws in the guide. This makes it more flexible when the ball goes around the lane. Even Scott admitted he over built the guide. As far as I know, this is the only physical change Spooky is doing, and the only physical change that is needed (in my 700+ game play experience). This is such a fun game to play! My wife and I can’t stop playing it...and our other pins (except ACNC) get very few plays per week now. You all are gonna love this pin!!
Quoted from LukyDuck:Okay, so I had heard of R&M in the past but never watched it. Then the announcement of the machine by Spooky. That got me into watching the series with my GF’s 16 yo daughter. She loves the show now as do I.
Now I am starting to watch the streams of people playing the machine and wonder if I should have put down a deposit.
I love the lights and sound effects. The call outs are great. And they did a good job including video shots from the show.
For fans of R&M, this is a great game. Now I am wondering if I should buy someone’s spot. I presume they are all sold by now.
Someone selling just a few posts back there too!
Quoted from rai:What is Stern doing with the JP topper??
From the post seems it might be a mode(s) that is only available with the topper installation/purchase?
Rocky and Bullwinkle
Quoted from epthegeek:Yes, it's not new. TFTC had it and some other game I can't remember off hand.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:I remember it in Last Action Hero too. Very fun Eric! Good job.
Thanks for streaming the latest code Bowen, but also for your excellent rules commentary. It was nice to see the Meeseeks Mania running alone so you could see more of it and hear the rules for the new MB.
Indeed. Great stream, I really like Bowens videos and commentary. Holding the ball too long in Whirly Dirly: "Hurry the Fu@# UP!" LOL
Also after all this time, just realised that the prototype had Jerry on the middle target..... obviously Jerry was moved to the bottom where he belongs!
Quoted from Pmaino:Quick question for the club here. Is anyone having a good amount of air balls off the ramps? As I inspected the screws on my ramps it looks like they might be a bit too big as they don’t sit flush with the ramp. I’m afraid to screw them down any further as the screws are already showing through on the underside of the playfield. If the left most screw on the left ramp were to be screwed down any further it would not allow the ball to Travel through the subway. Here are a few pictures. I had to remove the right screw bc it was really bad on the right ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The screw head is close to the edge, the screw would have to sit proud a fair way before the ball would be able to touch it. Have you tried putting a ball against the edge of the ramp above the screw to see how much clearance, or if the ball actually can touch it?
Quoted from Pmaino:Of course I understand you can turn down the power of the flipper, this wasn’t my issue. I noticed the ball would hit the screw and send it flying. Just trying to find out if the screw installed was accidentally too big. No need for the sarcasm. The game is awesome just trying to fix this problem.
Yea I tried this and the ball actually touches the screw when I run it over the ramp.
Is the side of the screw head catching on the ramp flap and pulling it down with it? .... the screw head should clear the cutout in the ramp flap, and not catch on it. Just another thought
Where you have your finger on the ramp flap, looks like should be a bit straighter curve meybe? ... the flap edge appears to be lifted where it meets the playfield in that pic.
It might have just needed to be screwed down a little more. The screw would be tight before it comes down tight on the ramp, the plain unthreaded section before the head does that, and helps stop it coming loose.
Hard to say without being there really... but I think it is unlikely that you have different screws there than every other game.
Quoted from cooked71:Why is that? It’s a skill just like every other pinball skill. It’s not random or pure luck. Is it too easy once you get the hang of it?
According to a large proportion of people it is not in the general spirit of the game. Same as slide saves and bang backs. It's a grey area though, and subjective.
Quoted from jonesjb:I wonder if there would be a knocker dimension?
Oh please yes! ... that would be up there with the wilhelm and TNA dimensions!
Quoted from Whysnow:Looks like just bending the hood of the scoop down would have taken care of it also. ???
That is the very first thing I do on any scoop I am adjusting.
I agree. On my TNA scoop rejects happened quite a bit if your shot was not well on target. But the scoop still worked 100% if your aim was true. Never woried about it for a long time, just tried to play better instead. Then when fitting the pink protectors I examined the scoop and its wear markings, and tested the ball in the scoop opening whilst noting the angles and geometry that were at play. The scoop was very high and straight, it appeared that the misaligned shot would just bounce against the back of the scoop, and the ball would then roll a lap around the top of the opening in the playfield.
I personally as a tradesman would never want my scoop mech mounted on washers for one thing (especially unevenly or on an angle/skew), nor lowered down below the stock mech height. I did however decide on "tweaking" the curve of the scoop. After bending the scoop down quite a bit, at the strategic zone, even the really off shots that probably shouldn't make it go in there quite easily now. Washers not required at all for mine, and with the bend it is now noob-noob easy to make. Even though I'm not real consistent, and miss totally, alot! Lol
Quoted from MikeS:I think it would be a bad idea to have a dimension for an optional accessory. Same goes for a shaker dimension. I think either should be used to give extra feedback or effects as intended.
To many people a knocker is not an optional accesory for pinball. If some people do not like knockers that is fine too. A knocker dimension would not be a bad idea at all. People that don't like real knockers can just have the fake boobs, I mean knockers, when in that dimension. No problem! .... or order a real knocker. Easy
I will definately not be having a shaker in my game. Does that mean there should not be a shaker dimension?? . No. It does not. Shaker dimension can still exist with or without a real shaker connected, shaker go "BRRRRRRR" , just the same as fake knockers. Spooky sub probably would out do a shaker using effects, anyway Lol. You don't want it real, cool ... does not make it a bad idea, or not worth doing, for everyone else. Most people.
Quoted from epthegeek:Man, git outta here wit dis trash. R&M ain’t got no fake knocker noise. No knocker - no knock.
That's a good thing!... not many things in pinball more irritating than that horrible fake screeching noise that some mobs substitute for reality. Better off with nothing at all if one doesn't want a physical knocker, than some god awful sfx.
Quoted from MikeS:Agree to disagree then. I just don't see what would be cool about a dimension that shakes the hell out of your game. And if you dont have a shaker I guess it would do nothing? It just doesn't seem creative for the ruleset. And knocker dimension is a sure fire way to tick off others in your household. And making loud noises just doesn't seen strategic. The game already has the Wilhelm Scream dimension.
Are you being serious?? ... Pmsl
I agree that shakers just rattle the crap out of your game for no good reason, and are for the most part highly over rated in my opinion. The machine doesn't create enough fatigue and loose fittings on it's own by nature 
Knockers though, and noise, are par for Pinball.... well, to Most people anyway.
Quoted from SpookyLuke:I believe this playfield as it leaves the factory is the most durable playfield in pinball right now. It has even made huge leaps and bounds since ACNC. I truly do believe that! We don't handle playfield protectors at this time but we have talked about it!
I'd go a playfield protector if it were an option.
Quoted from MikeS:I wouldn't put a playfield protector on this game even if it was free. It simply doesn't need one and will play better without it. The amount of dimpling is perfectly acceptable.
Subjective opinion there.
It is Much easier to fit during assembly than requiring a customer that wants one fitted to dismantle their game before playing it.
Charge what it costs, and the upmark, is there a reason why this should not be an option if alot of owners wanted it?
Quoted from MikeS:You're not wrong. I just know that I'd never put one in a Spooky game because it would make it less fun to play. Does JJP still offer to do this from the factory or did they stop? If they stopped I wonder what the reason for doing so was?
Doesn't make it less fun at all for me. Maybe all protectors or instalations are not equal.
Subjective, again.
Playfield protectors have been great for me, anyway.
Quoted from jbigdoggf:Could spooky Mylar in the factory for a charge ?
Same argument for protectors.
Quoted from The_Casual:Honestly, I can't decide between a purple or black door. I'm seeing a lot of unboxings with black doors and then a couple of purples pop up - is there anything I'm missing on deciding on a door color or is everyone having this much trouble?
If you can't decide, go Kalaxian. Later if it isn't to your liking, black door much easier to get than a Kalaxian door, I guess. I'm going Kalaxian for that reason, maybe later on a black door with Kalaxian Purple frame would look good?
I'm not getting the DBV option though, I'd much rather have the "Peace Among Worlds"decal, and I have no use for the DBV slot anyway.
Quoted from jonesjb:Go purple, aesthetically it will work better. Trust me. I can give a breakdown of why, if necessary, but it’s the clear winner.
Have to agree. To me the black door looks a little out of place. Of course, it is still a subjective thing.
I think part of it is the lack of contrast between the black door, and the black cabinet front. But the bottom of the black door contrasts against the lower coloured part of the cab. The purple frame seems to make things look better to me, outlining the whole door rather than just the bottom half of it, and meshing better with the other purple armor as well.
Quoted from MikeS:I like the Kalaxian color but the black plastic coin insert/returns contrast with it and bring too much attention to the coin door IMO. The black is just more subtle and blends in with the rest of my line-up. But it's great to have options for those that prefer the Kalaxian color. I also like the look of the DBV door over the one with the sticker (even if you don't add anything in the DBV slot), but that's just aesthetics.
[quoted image][quoted image]
73e767a894cf0c84b0e6bf3552021cec91b6eebc (resized).jpg
Another possible combination.
Quoted from Whysnow:There is a legit market for a cliffy type material in a thinned OD.
Also there is a product already available! .
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-super-bands-translucent-post-sleeves.html
Effectively the same material as cliffys, polyurethane. 11mm dia.
PBL actually supply SuperBands, but not the full range it seems?.
I treat cliffys and superbands the same, and take it as a wider variety, broader range of sizes to choose from by browsing through both catalogues.
I think these are the same, but all dimensions are listed here:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/39-6556-21
"Green gloss polyurethane Super-Bands™ bumper post sleeve is 1/4 Inner Diameter x 7/16 Outer Diameter x 1-1/16 inches tall (6.35mm ID x 11.113mm x 26.9875mm height)."
SuperBand 11mm OD post green (resized).jpg
SuperBand 11mm OD post (resized).jpg
They also make the Bell Bumper cone shaped rubbers you find on games like sys11 etc. in polyurethane.
These are the kind of post sleves I would like to see, rather than silicone. On the posts at least. It seems like they are available from PBL?
For me it isn't too hard to do the upgrade. Just poking at one of the rare opportunities to make Spooky games even better!.
Maybe this could make the option list? 
Polyurethane Rubbers - $35
They are a little more pricey than silicone generally. Also some may prefer the play of the standard issue silicone over the durable but hard polyurethane. It is certainly an option I would opt in for.
Quoted from Dantesmark:.... maybe im just a wierdo.[quoted image]
Don't be so hard on yourself! 
I noticed these are described as being "Not glow-in-the-dark" ... despite being called "Fluorescent pinball Glo-Balls™".
The others look cool though, especially the Pearl White glow in the dark, takes on the surrounding light colour.
Quoted from Coindork:Is there not a brand that does actually glow in the dark?
I’ve never put a colored ball in a machine other than putting a white ball as the egg captive ball in my Data East Jurassic Park, so never looked too far into it.
Normally I would think colored balls are tacky, but in this case it seems like it would work really well.
Yes it seems the second link in that post does supply "Glow in the dark" balls.
They state that the white glowing balls take on the colour of surrounding light.
Quoted from delt31:For folks that replaced their posts with better ones, can you provide the link so I can buy the same? Also were any of them tough to replace due to plastics, etc?
Sounds like target stickers are already being resolved by spooky which is great.
I also agree that neither are a big deal.
Quoted from razorsedge:Also there is a product already available! .
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-super-bands-translucent-post-sleeves.html
[quoted image]
Effectively the same material as cliffys, polyurethane. 11mm dia.
PBL actually supply SuperBands, but not the full range it seems?.
I treat cliffys and superbands the same, and take it as a wider variety, broader range of sizes to choose from by browsing through both catalogues.
Quoted from FatPanda:Pinball Life also carries Cliffy opaque sleeves
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsballystern-1-116-colored-post-sleeves.html
Quoted from Kevlar:Are they the same diameter as the original posts?
Does the 1/16" shorter make any difference?
Quoted from MikeS:The height doesn't make a difference. They are slightly wider as well but it made no discernable difference in gameplay to me. The game following installation i put up 18 million. If you don't hit your shots cleanly in this game the shots won't complete.
I just went with the SuperBands for TNA because they were the same dimension.
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:Not an official owner yet, but patiently waiting on machine number 745!
One of the [apparently very few] non-Blood Sucker Editions :3
Just wanted to post so I can tag along with y'all here, cheers!
Pmsl That's IT! ... that's like totally a THING now!?! .... Gold!, you've coined the "puckered lips" emoji!? Lol
:3
:3
:3
"Good - Job!"
Quoted from toyotaboy:the contrast has to do with viewing angle.. Seeing how I'm 6'4" I probably have the steepest angle and when I played the one at pinball life I didn't notice any display issue. quite frankly the comparison between those two screenshots are so close I could barely tell which is which.
Quoted from dnapac:That “before” looks horrible. Mine never looked like that, and after adjusting the settings, my display looks better than the “after”. No screen swap for me.
That before and after image is clearly fabricated nonsense, at least in substantial part. If you are going to take before and after images of displays at least get the view angle within 30 degrees for "before" and "after".
Obviously manipulated photography if you look for a moment, the "before" picture is looking down on the display so severely in comparison so that it can look more "washed out". You'd need to be 8 feet tall to get that "before" perspective from standing behind the lockbar.
Ignore kanada for "tech tips" is my advice. Zak as well by the sounds.
983e4f31a4b170cea99a4d72fabc0e4dfe710d3b (resized).jpg
What you see here is nothing more than a bullshit Cunning Stunt by a self proclaimed Stunning C@n+!!
I bet they didn't even change screens at all, just camera angle. They probably were not even smart enough to manipulate the Picture settings on their unchanged display, for a convincing improvment of their fabricated "photo shoot".
There doesn't look to be much difference really anyway, it's his principle of dishonesty and manipulation that truly sux, not the display.
Quoted from TomGWI:My screen on R & M seems fine. My TNA is a little light and I did adjust it.
What screen did you order Neil if you don’t mind me asking?
The screen IS fine
The issue is psychological.
Quoted from jonesjb:I mean it’s not manipulated photography.
But yes, it’s a matter of preference and not a dealbreaker. Subtle difference but definitely there.
It is manipulated photography, the shot angle is Very different for "before" and "after". That is manipulated, Not a credible Comparison for brightness etc. when you do that kind of rubbish. It is clear to see this in their pic, if you look, it is right before our eyes.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:mate, its not fabricated nonsense. honestly. If you don't think you need a screen then fine; for those who want a better picture then what's the big deal. Thats why Sony has 10 different models of TV at different levels of quality and price point.
Yes, the picture is misleading, on purpose too I say. It is inconsistent between the two shots for angle. Wildly different. My post wasn't saying people cant do what they want, just that Kanedas "picture" shoot is rubbish (because that is a fact, you know, the angles mismatch as well as other points).
The image is made as a troll effort plain and simple, mate.
Classic K-man style.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:dood, Kaneda might be doing his usual windup and taking pictures to show the difference in screens is always challenging but he hasn't fabricated those pictures; please stop talking nonsense that there is no difference in the screen; there absolutely_ is fact_ because one is 1080p one isn't. one has better view angles, one doesn't, one has stronger colours, one hasn't, maybe that picture doesn't show it well but the replacement screen is hugely improved, if you are happy then cool, but those who want to improve it, let them make their own call.
You are misunderstanding my particular context of the word "fabrication". The angles are so different it is stupid. Give yourself a rest bud!
Quoted from NeilMcRae:eye of the beholder my friend but hell no I won't.
There is an improved screen; the lord god geniuses of screens at colordmd recommended it. Folks are saying there is no difference when with my own eyeballs I've seen the difference, three of my buddies saw the difference on mine after discounting and went off and bought the screen, loads of people on the TNA thread did it. But here in the R&M pinside thread we are in a dimension when even the fact that the manufacturer of the screen shows the specs are different they are not believed that there is a difference! WTF?! Have you seen the two screens in question?
You've gone well beyond what I was actually posting about, which was Kanedas troll image.
Besides that, you are blowing it out of all reasonable proportion. Where do you want to stop for such minor improvments? ... you can keep going in tiny incriments... then .... $500 screen? 
. Not everyone buying a pinball is Loaded you know.
I look at the playfield for pinball anyways! Lol
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:I've played a TNA for weeks on end and agreed the screen needed to be upgraded. The owner bought a new one and switched it out, and the difference was amazing. It was like a whole new game.
I purchased ACNC in February. It's flawless. The screen is great. No adjustments needed. Because of this I figured Spooky had upgraded.
R&M comes out and everything was fine for 5 months. And now people are talking about upgrading it? I don't really understand what prompted all this...
It's a vocal handfull of owners choosing to go next level of display quality... ala JJP. Higher end displays, well ... look Better!
For most owners, adjusting the OEM stock display settings to preferece (brightness down some, contrast up some, gamma On), makes everything honky dory.
Fyi The stock display settings are 50, where min is 0 and max is 100.
On my Standard TNA Display I have:
B:25
C:90
G:On
That gives me a dramatic improvment compared to the standard display settings. It looks good to me.
It sounds like my TNA display might still be inferior to the displays going into R&M. ??
Quoted from MikeS:Thanks. I know how they're designed to be used but I never use the leveler nuts at home. Its easier to adjust on the fly without them. I always start with my front leveler flat against the leg and level as needed. I haven't had any fail yet and if they do its only about $1 for a new one.
Being locked up firmly, helps prevent damage to the threads over time vs if left loose. Same goes for leg bolts into cabinet, which also protects the cabinet from damage in that case.
If leg leveler locknuts from the top are done tight down onto the crimped nipple type "nut-sert", it will damage the nut thread, the leg insert thread, and the leveler thread. The lack of flange face top side is one problem doing that, with these. No nut ok, but I wouldn't lock from the top in most cases.
Quoted from TomGWI:No idea why but I keep getting balls stuck behind the garage when I make a right orbit shoot to the back left hole. It has happened now about 10 times. Anyone else experience this? Ball sits behind the opto. It is impossible to dislodge without a magnet under the house.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are there any parts look loose or missing?
Quoted from jonesjb:I’m not really sure how or why this is happening, but from your photo it looks like the ball is getting stuck behind the metal tab. I illustrated in razorsedge’s photo.
[quoted image]
The pic there is just grabbed from way back in the thread. Just noticing how short that guide is. Why is that ball guide only half usual height? .... looks like the ball gets on top of it? .... I kinda thought it might be higher with a hole for the opto. Also then protecting the opto PCB, and preventing the ball going anywhere behind there ? ...
Quoted from Kevlar:Might just be the photo but is that opto exposed to knocks from the ball?
I thought, why is the ball guide half ball height? 
The ball would frequently go bouncing in there where the post is now, it seems, crashing to rest against the opto PCB in the void that existed. The post in there is to stop it lodging in the crevice, but the opto can still get a hit it would appear.
Quoted from screaminr:Like the saying goes , never buy a Monday or Friday car .
Not that you had a choice .
You want a Wednesday one my old boy always rekoned.
Quoted from bemmett:So I noticed on the drop targets mainly for Beth, Summer, Jerry and Rick they weren't registering very well. Seems on mine the cushion behind the target was just too much and was preventing the switches from making consistent contact. I just shaved off a little of the cushion on each and now they react MUCH better.
No adjusting switches?
Quoted from JustEverett:I'm starting to wonder how many R&M buyers are first time NIB owners (or even pinball owners in general). I've unboxed a lot of games from every manufacture currently building except American, and there are always issues. I helped unbox a JJP pirates at a local bar and there were all kinds of issues out of the box. I also unboxed another JJP Pirates at a friends and did almost nothing right out of the box. Pinball machines are a complex mess of electronics, mechanisms, and hardware. They are going to have problems. Just calm down and know that Spooky will do more than any other manufacturer out there to help you fix them.
Hey Spooky Pinball .....
Sorry but I'm somehow missing something in the confusion there, what are you actually annoyed about again?
Everything's working fine isn't it?, things are getting sorted... for Spooky customers at least. Also, you essentially align with the quoted post Lol
Everyone has the right to be offended of course, and anyone can not care. Fine, be offended Lol. Nothing actually happens when someone just gets annoyed or offended by things, except maybe unless they turn all chainsaw masacre or get full psycho!.
Everyone's so sensitive these days!. Soft....
Uncle Razor prescribes a teaspoon of cement ... and says Harden the Fu@# up!!! Lol
Quoted from JustEverett:Literally no one on the forum is saying anyone should be silent about issues. We were all responding to a guy who came on here ranting rather than attempting to have a meaningful discussion.
Here here... and thank you for helping people to get that, some whom maybe didn't seem to have time to read all posts properly.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Ok, fair enough. That still doesn’t validate an industry standard of incomplete initial build development and using paying customers as guinea pigs to figure out how to finish your product.
Trouble is you're in the wrong thread for that here...
I guess some people just not grasping the bootique principle very well. First quarter of the run are prototypes, really. Raise issues by all means. Try not to be an arse in doing it.
Easy
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:Completely disagree! A product is a product is a product. Whether you pay $0.10 for something or $1M, the fact is that any company producing any product has to produce the best product they can for their consumers (and if mistakes are made, listen to feedback, improve and grow from that feedback). Yes, pinball is a "boutique" industry but it also has a bunch of folks basically saying "It's cool if you guys send us products that are faulty, we can fix the smaller problems" HENCE why these companies continue to ship out products with faulty parts in them (because they're cheaper for them). Stop the enabling. We're paying a LOT OF MONEY for these products, you need to stand up and demand that they produce them properly, not make excuses for them. I work VERY HARD for that money. PS: Once again, I stress...this is NOT about SPOOKY! They are the one company that I see in pinball that does what I just stated above. Even if mistakes pop up in their machines, they LISTEN and ADJUST and SHIP out better product. Unlike some others.
Have you bought a Stern lately?? Pmsl
Difference is Spooky don't seem to act like the stereotypical greedy capitalist.
If they were you'd be paying like 10k for a game of RaM quality. For the base model. JJP teritory.
Not a fan of "pinstadium" at all, myself. That thing is totally killing the look of the game with its over the top couloured washout.
Pickle Rick looks Great though!
Quoted from Dantesmark:Which is better?[quoted image][quoted image]
Not a crappy misleading camera shot in the dark maybe. The first one looks alot better! . But, also no point in taking pictures, when they are not indicative of real life. The second one looks drowned and awful to me.
In real life they are totally unnecesary, actually for me they detract and are a pita.
At least in your first camera shot the art colour and inserts can actually be seen clearly. Try fixing the exposure on your camera for more indicative and representative images to compare. That might be an idea.
Quoted from Dantesmark:Honest question guys... have you ever played a game with pin stadiums on them?
Yep, I have. I wasted money on One Set, just to try. Never again. They are overpriced fluff that detracts from most Good games.
Customised support lighting is Waaay cheaper to impliment, and works Much better in a variety of aspects, imho.
TNA and RaM definately are two games Specifically, on which pinstadium will destroy completely a major aspect of the game, because of the way that RGB GI is utilised. No question!
Alien is another.
Maybe I can appreciate Atmosphere.
Maybe I have sensitive eyes ...
Quoted from Dantesmark:So you spend 8k+ on a pinball machine, but think an extra $250 to have the ability to see the beautiful artwork clearly is overpriced fluff?
I get thats its not everyones cup of tea, but why poo poo it? Hell its won two twipys for best mod if i rickall.
*** Pay $250 to ruin the 8k game you mean?
Those things should really come in a kit that includes a Welding Shield!
Not poo pooing 
You posted, people give opinion. Many people don't really like it.... obviously they are all bad people because they don't like a washed out horrible look of their great game the way you obviously do. If you don't want feedback then maybe try not posting?
It's all subjective, no need to take it all personal like.
If you really like it, that is Great, for you! ... just that not everyone likes the same, don't get feisty at people not flocking behind you, no problems!
I can see the game, no problems. Cheers
Also, I think the Pickle Rick is Great!!
Quoted from KingofGames:Maybe a stupid question.
Will i have a probleem with the power suply in europe? Since we use 220 volt instead of 110.
No problem, Spooky got you covered
Quoted from Blackzarak:I had the same problem as well and notice only when there’s a certain combination with meeseeks multi ball. I’m pretty ire it’s a software/code isssue (Same thing happens to me with Elvira HOH when I hit certain mode combinations but it has been fixed with Lyman
:3
Geez Elvira horrors sounds pretty buggy for highly experienced machine builders...
Thank goodness this is The Rick and Morty thread, and we have Eric! ... "GOOD JOB!"
Quoted from MikeS:Ive had this happen a few times. My shooter lane coil strength is perfect for one ball, but in the rare instance that it needs to fire out 2 balls there isn't enough strength. Upping the coil strength introduces new problems. Ive let Eric know. I would think just boosting the stength during the 2nd and third attempts would solve it.
The way the launch ramp ends does create an issue. If it could handle dropping the faster moving ball reliably, it would certainly help things for the two ball stuck scenario. The issue likely wouldn't exist to start with, since all launches will then always make the grade anyway. Some parts of RaM overengineered, this part underengineered imho.
Having multiple tries at launching balls on any repeated basis is not fun to have happening during your multiball game, at all. The wireform may or may not be substantial enough, but it definately Looks flimsy. I should not have to dial back launch power just to make the ball drop consistently, really.
The only aspect of the game I have any concern with. Maybe it is sufficient? ... but it is certainly not ideal. Not hard to remedy when my game gets here if the wireform is still this way, I will certainly create a fix or improvment so that launch power can be elevated and still drop the ball consistently.
If Spooky have thier hands tied and unable to make any changes to the wireform, I can understand in some circumstances changes just aren't possible*. Maybe it could be a Mod opportunity.
I'm not worried about it at all for myself, I have fixes in mind. Point is it would be the icing on the cake to recieve a NIB pin and not have to do any Stranger Things from out of the box. If Spooky could pull that off they would be shipping A++ Grade games, and setting the highest standard bar None!
It is an issue, it is minor, but has potential to make any copy a bit temperamental, inconsistent with launches. Just posting my thoughts about it, trying to be constructive. Regardless, game still R(i)cks! ... looks like The GOAT for me!
Quoted from Kevlar:Agree with everything you said, the shooter lane wireform is a very poor design. I've said basically what you said, to Luke, the end is too flimsy and it's too dependent on the perfect ball speed to work, the margin for error is tiny, too slow or too fast and the design just doesn't work. I suggested something could be made, to clip onto the end and attach to the nearby orbit/turn around loop post, to stiffen the whole thing and force the ball down.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/43#post-5596394
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/43#post-5596817
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/44#post-5600492
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/45#post-5601894
It was raised quite some time ago.
Quoted from jonesjb:Does the UFO have a solenoid?
It is Identified, that is Not a UFO.
That is Ricks flying car,or ship.
RaM thread cred dead lol
Quoted from ziz:This happened a little while ago!
[quoted image]
Is that part acrylic or polycarbonate?
Quoted from PinMonk:It seems like it snapped like acrylic. I'd think they should be using PET-G on all the plastics in the game for its durability. Learned that lesson making the Shadow Plastic Supersets...
Also learned years ago from the Alien games. That game is Terrible for shattered acrylic plastics.
Quoted from Kevlar:Hmm...that's not good, hindsight is 2020 obviously but bending a piece of plastic as a hinge...probably always going to fail eventually whatever you use. Maybe a part re-design is needed here.
If the right plastic is employed it should be fine. Lexan/Polycarbonate/PetG would surely be ok, these allow deformity and tend Not to crack. Tough but not as hard, you can fold Lexan, no crack. Lexan would be used for your Stock Car windscreen, for example. The 3 plastics I listed there really aren't the exact same as each other, either. They are similar.
Polycarb etc. would not snap that way, it would tend to deform or lose shape if bent beyond its yield.
Acrylic however, is naturaly fairly hard, and does not go well with being stressed or copping deformity. It cracks, or snaps, if you try to fold it or it gets stressed.
Acrylic is certainly much more common, easier to work with, and costs significantly less.
Material selection is a component of design.
Quoted from zaphX:And what was your number?
If it's the same situation as me, number not known.... whatever is built to go in the Aussie group container I suppose. I have asked a few times, but can't seem to get any info. It's no big deal.
I put my options list in about 3 weeks ago as well, as soon as we recieved it.
Quoted from cooked71:I’ve got no idea what my number is.
Lol glad to hear I'm not the only one!
Quoted from goingincirclez:Sorry for the thesis... it sounded like you'd never done one before. So as for differences I've not had the fortune to own a Spooky yet (but am on the R&M list!) but figure it can't be too different; all my pins and service work on all other vendors / eras have shown minor variations on the same basic theme. So if you can handle the serpentine mess of a Sys11/WPC game, I'd say you're all set!
Good guide. The only thing I noticed that may help that I have done.... instead of just letting the cable loom drop into the cabinet, I lassoo the whole lot together with a loop of string, leaving a long tail to hang out of the backbox hole. This makes it much more straightforward to retrieve on reassembly, and preserves original cable routing.
Quoted from zaphX:That's what I was hoping too, but it sounds like a big batch of Aussie games are in front of us.
Remembering Aussie build numbers are Spread Throughout the lot (including at least one standard that I know of), but I guess still 2-3 weeks worth of building for the container. For timing, and what that calculated to from the info at hand, the Aussie production was going to be Equivalent to as if they were all in the hypothetical vicinity of 230-250 (for the timing, not actual build numbers).
It is also possible, therefore, that in getting to build No.160 for example, there could be build numbers Below 160 that are destined for Oz. If there are, then those games would not have been built as yet either, as far as I understand the situation.
Translated, I think Spooky will be well into the 200's before the Aussie lot is run.
Quoted from waynetrane:Isn‘t it 42 ?
The answer to the question ... What is the meaning of life, the universe, and everything? 
Quoted from Hungryforapples:Anyone from Australia know the most cost effective way to pay spooky?
the quickbooks link requires a credit card or routing number. If I pay through CBA it seems I'll pay 500 or so more than a service like transferwise...
Spooky chooses Quickbooks, afaik that isn't optional?... not that I'd know for certain (Edit: Thank you for the option posted below RD!). I seem to recall asking something about it for some reason for TNA. I had no issues with Quickbooks, exchange rate was ok for mine, not much different than paypal or any others, it seemed. All within a cent. I use a credit union though too. Maybe CBA are just ripoffs?
Maybe they would take a bank cheque?
+ 3 cents in the dollar or so is a pretty major difference. What's the catch?
There's always a catch. I think maybe sometimes different ways can perhaps cost Spooky more, as well. ?
Au Dollar is being bullish... already saved thousands in the last few months of rate gains (compared to March)... heck by next week it'll probably cost you another 500 pennies less again, anyway! 
I found my invoice in the inbox today. Some of my funds are cold hard, have to get back from work in the sticks and get that paid in.... I'll let you know how the exchange rate goes for me after the weekend. I suspect I'll get 70-71 cents in the dollar on Monday.
Meanwhile I finally learn my build number
BSE #500 heading downunder soon bitch!!
:3
:3
:3
Quoted from jonesjb:It was a 90's reference.
Or is that "still is" a 90's reference?, which can still be "was" even though it "still is".
"Was" is past tence, regardless of if things have changed or not.
Thus demonstrating to anyone not fully understanding the english language, that many words in the language can be exactly the same word, but still have very Different implied Meanings, depending on an often overlooked little thing called Context.
People often write and leave context open to interpretation, weather on purpose or not, and this can lead to misunderstanding and confusion. Happens a fair bit with text.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Dude - if you’re going to be on writing patrol, at least get your spelling and capitalization scene together. Lol.
Didn't you know you're allowed to use capitals for emphasis these days ? Lol
It's a tough act to follow on pinside anyway, so needless to say I don't get too fussy aboot it in general.
Also remembering different countries each brutalise English in their own unique and colourful ways... I'll point things out, and happy for things to be pointed out to me! 
If I didn't know it was fixed, I would have assumed "this was a problem with ACNC" could well mean the issues remain. The effort of one or two more words is all that was needed for clarity or context. Actually, No extra words! Only one different, "a" becomes "fixed".
"...this problem with ACNC was fixed"
Lack of clarity in posting, well intended or not, leads to confusion. Common these days especially on the web, I suppose we should be used to it by now
Thanks for picking up on my poor English anyway! . I do appreciate it!
:3
Quoted from estrader:Try “whether” if you’re going to police post.
Thanks. Trivial in comparison for cause and effect.. But that Was a great pickup, anyway! ..... Still is!
Quoted from Dantesmark:Got an idea... thinking about a way to put a digital screen in here to make the letter/numbers random?
[quoted image]
Maybe 5 small Alpha-numeric display blocks instead, like the actual thing? (rather than an LCD display panel).
Would be cool
If someone wants to be a real showoff thos 5 displays could also at times in between display a scrolling text message like you would get with sys11 etc.
"Portal Gun Ready!!"
"Caution - Low Power"
"Launch the Ball!"
Quoted from The_Casual:Thank you, I thought I saw it way earlier in the thread and Spooky solved it so I think it’s a bit different.
I didn't see it "solved" as yet?, just an interim "tweak" fix. If it has been adressed I missed it, sorry. The shooter wireform still gives trouble afaik, from going through the posts. It is rather flimsy. I believe some form of simple mod (add-on) *could* address it?. Numerous posts critical of the wireform, and describing issues, have not been made key posts. You have to wade through or search to find them. The "tweaks" do not address all issues. The issue you describe does fit the bill though.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/84#post-5732689
Quoted from Makakka:Still "only" 1st layer code. Some deepness is needed not JP complexety but at least a second layer.
What? Lol
Quoted from Makakka:You can start every mode without finishing anything prior. That is the first code layer.
Btw In the May podcast from poorman Mr. Priepke said wizard mode „not yet“. So maybe this year.
I don't think that is true... and I think your mould, or "model", seemingly of stern code comparison of what constitutes "normal", or general assumption about what everyone else judges as "layer", or just "good" even, seems a bit limited in whom it aplies to. Doesn't aplply to me you will find, anyway.
To me there are already many layers, almost infinite you could say, not your "usual" layers though. It's Great!! . Just my counter opinion
I think it is Fantasticaly refreshing, and quite glad it is Not another run of the mill repeatable or limited life Stern ruleset. 
Perhaps RaM is not the game for you? ... or not going to turn into the thing you might want for it to be?
Quoted from jonesjb:Agree, while I wouldn’t be disappointed in more, the existing:
...Layer of adventures
...Plus a layer of dimensions and mega seeds
...Plus a layer of Meeseeks
Create a nice balance of depth as well as approachability.
Add in another multiball, more dimensions/adventures and maybe a wizard mode and the pin is pretty much perfection. At this point I think additional dimensions and adventures would benefit the game more than additional complexity. But that’s just an opinion.
Totally agree. The more Adventures and Dimensions this game gets, ultimately the more Legs it will have, less likely to play even the similar game path twice. Designers a bit like Rick Sanchez ... Wierd Smartarse Genius! Lol
Don't forget bitches, Megaseeds! ... Get Some!!
Quoted from Makakka:.... yes with the current code style this is not the game for me I wouldn’t even play it. If my nr. 357 arrives with no second layer I would leave it unboxed and if I lose all hope for a second layer I would flip it.
I'm not a great fan of "wizard modes", or mega deep code/rules that make you fall asleep. Deeply "layered deep" code kinda sux a bit really in my opinion.
You can keep them overpriced JJP's . Sys11 and early SS, that ilk is where it's at for me. Shorter tougher games... rather than some 2hr borefest, and chopping wood the subsequent games.
I'm sure there will be some sort of wizard mode, but I really don't see any changes coming that will satisfy you.
Doesn't seem like you're much of a RaM fan at all either, saying all that sort of gobbledygook?
An oddball perspective that to me is basically just nonsensical. You do have a kinda strange definition of "layer".
Sounds like this game is not for your unusual tastes, really it sounds like you might as well just sell it now. Buy a turtles or something. Set RaM free for someone whom appreciates the refreshing style of game.
Someone will buy your spot in a flash, not everyone is looking for a game that attempts to prevent repetitivness by making it so deep you couldn't be bothered playing the confused mess anymore.
RaM is not deep but broad, and that is multiplied in layers through several aspects, and that means no two games will be even close to the same, always new combinations and something different. We (I) want unexpected.... you obviously want predictable.
Are you sure you're in the right thread?
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Waiting patiently for someone to sell me their BSE queue position. Come on folks!!
Hey look!! ... Here's @Flynnyfalcon, there is that BSE you're after mate!, this guy aint gonna like this game when it's done by the sounds .... pounce while the opportunity presents!!
Quoted from TheCoinSlotTC:What's the latest game # that went out? I'm sure we're in 2021 with #425 but just trying to get a better time frame.
Did you write a letter to Father Christmas?
Quoted from epthegeek:I only saw the early part of the stream (but will review later), but I think Karl has some flaky opto problems in the ship. That single ball stuck trying to release on the left was a strange one I’ve never had anybody else report.
The mania ending slowdown is a know thing that I thought I had beaten because I hadn’t seen it in a while. Apparently not entirely.
24:35 a ball comes to rest around the up post under the ship, the game starts to lose it from there. Seems like solving the hangup would help things?
Quoted from o-din:Son in law and daughter approved.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Judge Dredd and Radical! ... jeez man, you have some of the best games out, there! . RaM in great company!
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:Not a rumour mein fruend, the 'Aussie batch' is fact
I see there was an overseas fellow the other day... thought the actual Existence of Australia was mere rumour !? ... Pmsl
Dude is from some other reality!!
Quoted from Cammy:Request for an option to disable the knocker on TILT please!
The Knocker goes off for TILT?!? .... f'ing awesome!! Lol
C-500 paid in full, now the excited anticipation is building!!
It sounds like the container isn't too far from departure ...
Quoted from garretswinning:Request the option to double the knock on tilt lol that is epic. Is there another pin that does that? I honestly dont know. Is this a first? Spooky does a heck of a job on the small details that become so effective bravo. Cant wait to see what is next
^^ This!
Love the integration of the knocker into aspects of the game like this.
Bring On the Knocker Dimension!!
Knocker fires with each hit of the Flooble Crank or Slam Ring or something, awards 25 schmeckles, and wide open for a funny title given Mortys fascination with hooters! 
"8oobL3-Kn0ck" - Flooble Knocker Dimension
Quoted from newovad:Invoiced is the build sheet. Most people seem to pay day of when they get that request, so that is listed as Paid in Full. Probably confusing but since this was just for my record keeping, that's how I thought of it.
My build sheet and invoice were weeks apart, they arent the same. Build sheet is build sheet/options. Some time after submitting the options, then you get an invoice.
Quoted from jonesjb:Yes that makes sense, but rather than flashing lights (which I agree would be annoying and not work), I'm recommending a subtle pulse/difference in brightness. Something like the current underwater dimension... But movement pulse instead.
I agree, this idea is more of an animation by playfield lights. Motion effect.
Like when you're standing stationary on the beach. Then a wave rolls in over where you are standing. The incoming wave not giving the strongest effect, but the outgoing water running back. If you focus down at your feet at this point you get the sensation you are moving when you know you are not. It can unballance you, I guess similar to the intention by having something similar in a game dimension.
This vid is for some other motion effect, but best I could easily find and it helps visualise the playfield lighting behaviour to give the effect. It is more Motion effect than "flashing".
With the annimation going the other direction it could also fit a description of "W@t3r-fa11" dimension. Or "Ant1-gr@v"...
Quoted from Westbury:Does anyone know what would cause my Rick drop target to just outright fail over and over on The Drop Target Tests.
On Manual Test i just get STATUS -Target Up-Target Failure-Target Failure-Target Failure-Target Down and so on and so forth,
When i go to the cycle tests the Error up/Down will just go and go and go and stack up failure after failure and also give the status of Target Failure. I dont know if its something i can physically fix because i havent had to time to pop the hood but does anyone know what would cause that?
By "fail" , is it not going up or not going down? . Unclear from your post.
If it is not staying up, could be broken plastic ledge. If not going down fully could be fouled switch blade.
Quoted from cakalues:Im guessing the delay shipping #141-151 was simply due to Spooky building all the international export games in a batch and getting those off in shipping containers.
Yeah more than 30 games at Very Least between Aust. and NZ, and mostly games over #200 build. Mine is 500, and at least one Std as far as I know of personally. These have been shipped or near ready to ship, and have not been counted in this speculative number of games built?. Build number does Not reflect the number of games that have been built. Way out, there.
Didn't the charity auction game, #750 Std, get built already too?
This crap reminds me of the invoice gate nonsense from the original thread
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:I swear I just saw something about the show being canceled.
It's a cycle. $ wins. Or "cancel" culture?
Just the same dirt scraping and propoganda regurgitating x "cancel culture". Show goes on.
It doesn't need covering again, been in the RaM thread here already ages ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/43#post-5597514
Go find it in the other thread if one must. Carry on!
Quoted from cooked71:The guy is cleaning gutters, not installing them, and therefore deserves to be ridiculed.
It's something Jerry does immediately before falling off the ladder Lol
Quoted from schwarz:Commonwealth?
Wikipedia:
A commonwealth is a traditional English term for a political community founded for the common good. Historically it has sometimes been synonymous with "republic". The noun "commonwealth", meaning "public welfare general good or advantage", dates from the 15th century. Originally a phrase (the common-wealth or the common wealth – echoed in the modern synonym "public wealth") it comes from the old meaning of "wealth", which is "well-being", and is itself a loose translation of the Latin res publica (republic). The term literally meant "common well-being". In the 17th century, the definition of "commonwealth" expanded from its original sense of "public welfare" or "commonweal" to mean "a state in which the supreme power is vested in the people; a republic or democratic state".
The term evolved to become a title to a number of political entities. Three countries – Australia, the Bahamas, and Dominica – have the official title "Commonwealth", as do four U.S. states and two U.S. territories. Since the early 20th century, the term has been used to name some fraternal associations of nations, most notably the Commonwealth of Nations, an organization primarily of former territories of the British Empire, which is often referred to as simply "the Commonwealth".
Quoted from SpookyLuke:Its honestly not all that unlikely that we will hit 380 by Christmas
Also I guess, build progress will start to skip past the build numbers that have since already been built and shipped, for international customers. Such as mine at #500
It would be fair to say then that as #380 gets built, the actual number of games sent out the door would have to be somewhere in the 400's, maybe.
Quoted from Kevlar:I just had a ball get stuck in a similar spot, just further along, after the opto. I've mocked up an image as it was hard to take a photo of and I didn't want to remove the left ramp and house just to do it. The ball was actually a left garage lane shot that bounced to where it finished up. Not sure if Spooky have addressed stuck balls in this area on newer machines ( mine is no.20 ) but it's obviously an area that could do with some improvement. Has anyone else had stuck balls here or put anything in place to try to prevent it? I'm thinking of screwing in a post just right of the large garage hole ( left of the hole the cable comes through ). This is actually the first time it's happened to me although I've had the ball bounce about a bit in that area before and come back down the inner loop when it should have gone in the garage hole. Not a frequent problem but would be an issue if it happened in the middle of a league meet as it wouldn't shake loose and was hard to reach ( I managed to reach it with a magnet ).[quoted image]
I'm trying to understand why it is not a full height ball guide? .... it appears to be lower than the opto for height.
Quoted from jonesjb:Yes, he made it sound more intriguing/out there.
The post is only 2/3rd finished yet! ... can't you see the brackets are waiting to be closed during part 3!
Quoted from PinMonk:Should have a ramp flap spring steel joint, or have an actual mini hinge with a spring on it.
Quoted from boustrophedonic:Would be nice too if the top wasn't flat since the ball gets stuck on the top lip a lot which usually requires removing the glass.
Just a change of material can solve it. Shape change, to ease the hangup. Not a big drama, I have some lexan here to use if I have a snap incident...
Quoted from wesman:Stern often seems to win due to userbase numbers alone....
The TWIPY public choice system is obviously too unbalanced to be any real guage of what is really the best game. It's just a popularity/volume survey.
Quoted from PinMonk:You can do it with a spring steel flap (that would probably break from the constant flexing, too, eventually or a nylon hinge with a E clip and spring on the back end. Should look fine. Either would be much more durable than what's there now.
Or just use a more appropriate plastic, one of the several available not prone to cracking as the current material obviously does. This has been covered before. The material is obviously not entirely suitable for the job it is asked to do. It isn't SpaceX science
**PeT-G is modified from PeT by the addition of Glycol. This makes PeT-G much more Brittle than PeT or Polycarbonate. It also means PeT-G is much cheaper. PeT-G is a bad choice for the application. The ship just needs the correct polymer for the given application (Lexan or Polycarbonate, not PeT-G). Simple.
Quoted from PinMonk:Even PETG will eventually crack and probably break if being bent slightly over and over and over as it appears that does (I don't have one to verify the action or how far it's being bent when activated). A springloaded joint seems like the best long-term solution.
You're describing what is already happening. I think you may have mis-read my post?
It is made of PeT-G currently, as far as I am aware?. That is the problem. It should be a material resistant to cracking/brittleness which PeT-G is Not!. Use better polymer, no problem
I have no issue really for myself, easy access to Lexan/Polycarb here in the form of Impact Faceshield refils as a fringe benefit, that s#it is tough as old boots mate and *Will Not Crack* , if it happens for mine I'll just make an improved one from a repurposed personal impact protection screen.
Lexan or Polycarbonate can Fold In Half and Not Break. It will tend to Strech yield under extreme or repeated strain rather than crack or break.This is why they don't skimp out for Nascar Windscreens.... Lexan will not so easily permit entry of stray wheels or other debris. It's your Life man! . No skimping!
**Squanching still okay
Quoted from PinMonk:Polycarbonate is strong for impact resistance, but is not suitable over time for repetitive bending. It WILL stress crack from repetitive minor bending. Potential cleaning products used in/around the playfield will accelerate that. Also, the thicker the piece, the more likely the stress cracks over time. Pretty sure there's a better answer for that area that doesn't involve any plastic piece.
No I think the design is just fine apart from material selection, and whatever way you slice it Lexan will outsee the life of the spring, and also by very scientific definition either alternative polymer in fact Will handle Many Many (terry) folds more action than that Actually Brittle Already PeT-G.
I'm okay with people not interested in the realities of polymers or engineering, I'll sort mine. Just trying to help everyone else. All good
*It does Not need to be replaced by a needless ugly hinge or other metal part. Period. Also we have been here before, a few posts after yours there the material is clarified Without Doubt, and it is behaving like PeT-G too, much more brittle than Polycarb or Lexan, many folds.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/87#post-5743770
What happens if the 2 fasteners farthest from the ship are released? (to alow the flex over More Material, less flex per area, use the Zig AND the zag?) *EDIT: never mind the fastners I think it might assemble differently than I assumed*
Are these two bolts fastened through and fixed to the plastic below it??
c6a03e70817a1a3edce50ad96873ea556a70f566 (resized).jpg
If so, and all they do is hold down that end of the plastic, the problem might be alleviated by simply removing these two fasteners. Or maybe kept loose, rubber gromet and nylok?. The flex is then spread through the two outer aspects as well as the original point, Ricks ship may have more varied movement though.
Quoted from xfassa:Could it be as simple as drilling holes at the end of the cut lines to reduce the stresses?
Edit: Nope.... corner already rounded. [quoted image]
Corner rounded is not the only important consideration, radius makes a difference, as does surface finish. Bigger radius is better, to a point. Too big and there is not enough plastic body remaining for strength.
I might have to re-consider saying no design changes should be needed, the narrow slot ending creates a concentrated stress point.
A Larger Radius will distibute and reduce the Concentration of stress across a larger area of the material. I think the very concentrated strain at that very very small and rough radius there is just too much for the PeT-G. It's a little bit like "tear here". Combined with those two bolts clamping that end fairly firmly to the surrounding plastic?.
Some radius or another, a simple keyhole relieif at the end may be enough for a legitimate and effective fix, SpookyLuke ?
**"Drilling" a hole Might seem like a great idea at the time, but Please DON'T try it! . Likelyhood is shattered plastic parts, for multiple reasons. It also has potential to cause injury considering that. Just saying.
Having a keyhole there is on the right track though I think. Along with relaxing the two bolts somehow, maybe.
c6a03e70817a1a3edce50ad96873ea556a70f566xx (resized).jpg
Maybe One bolt in the Centre only would alow the more desirable flex pattern, less concentrated. Combine with some keyholes. Done?
Of course this could lead to cracking the plastic beneath around the one bolt hole, concentration, if bolted tight. A washer/rubber gromet, and so not firm mount might cover it.
Is it possible this is the difference between games where the ship Lasts, and the few where it Doesn't Last? .... Bolts Tight, rather than Relaxed?
I'm thinking those two bolts at the end need to be there for stability and to keep the end of the plastic spring from raising, but also need to have some amount of loose slack so that the plastic can flex across that whole "bolted" area. Nylocks holding that "loose" position.
Quoted from Yelobird:Or.... just use the correct polycarbonate plastic much easier and rather low cost fix. I’m sure they will address this in no time.
I agree in some respects there... but most are lasting well and the odd one or two lasting like 100 games? ... but if the explanation for this anomoly is just tight bolts where they really want to be loose and have some play? = solved
If they have not all been cut already, adding the relief should be very cheap and straightforward. Same for assembly details like "keep these 2 bolts loose".
Quoted from Jherre6:Under noob noob. Not that you need to see a broken piece of plastic, but behold...
[quoted image]
This one has happened before as well :
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/22#post-5496458
Quoted from JustEverett:Follow-up on this as I decide whether to move forward with design and production. I'm looking about ~$500 at least up front costs into this fix plus variable cost of material and time going forward. I figure my breakeven will be selling about 100 units at $30. I see pinball life has the replacement plastic available for $2. The fix I'm coming up with would be a 1 time fix and it would never break again.
So would all the owners rather just keep replacing the plastic with the Pinball life replacement? Or would everyone be willing to spend $30 for a lifetime fix?
I think it will be fine
I'll just check 2 bolts aren't (too) tight and go from there.
Quoted from cottonm4:If they would use polycarbonate there would be no breaking problems. But poly is a little more expensive than Acrylic if that is what they are using. But what is the point of pinching pennies if all pinching does is lead to is broken junk.
It is quoted as being PeT-G. Not junk, just needed an engineering tweak.
PeT-G takes more abuse than Acrylic, but less than polycarb.
It is suitable material really (even If not the best), but certainly needed those reliefs, which have been updated now.
In my opinion, slack on the end two bolts there would only be benefit, as well.
Most games these seem to have lasted just fine so far, without the new improvement. So now even Better!
Quoted from Kevlar:Another noobnoob "protector" bites the dust...[quoted image]
Like with this protector... why is the rectangle cutout in there??
It doesn't appear to be in the actual plastic?
If the rectangle cutout Does Need to be there, maybe it warrants a third post up the top, for more support?
I really like the art blades. Too much of Crazy Colours and busy side art I would see as distracting visual clutter, and take something away from the playfield and cab art. It gives a good minimalist contrast to the detail in other areas.
Only way it would have been better imho is if the graphics were printed on mirror blades, maybe black mirror.
I assume the art blades were basically the work of the Adult Swim artist as well anyway? ... perhaps not the final choice going to Spooky?
I will probably install mirror blades over the inside art, anyway, I suppose that would preserve the original art decals too.
I certainly would not have been down for either of the "photoshop" art blade jobs at all, overdone and cluttering the art. Yuk!. Personal preference of course but to me that would just look grosse. The eye needs somewhere to rest! lol. Thank You for Not doing that AS!!
RaM art blades, perfect fit I think... great work Spooky and Adult Swim!
Quoted from nettek:350 something, but it is part of the Aussie builds, so I believe it's been built and will be part of a container load on its way shortly.
Indeed, including standards and my #500BSE
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Ive been saying this since day 1. Do you know how expensive the black mirror blades are??? $225!!!! Woah!
So who knows some one who can print vinyl decals? Im thinking maybe decals of different planets in sparkle, shiny, different textures and colors. They would stand out nicely and not be too distracting. Plus you wouldnt ruin your $225 blades lol. I can do the pshopping, just need to find some one who can print decals.
Well considering that, regular mirror blades with the art would still be cool I think.
Quoted from JohnDeere:I have had 3 Asrock boards for personal use and they have been rock solid.
Solid, As Rock
1 week later
Quoted from jbigdoggf:Question- will pinball life sell a replacement playfully?
Seems to be about the only place you can get a replacment TNA playfield, so I guess that is where they'll be...
Quoted from epthegeek:Here's something you could discuss: Anybody have ideas for good clips to use for collecting an extra ball (when you collect it, we already have the robot to serve it) or locking balls in the ship?
I've been over the show a few times looking for stuff and haven't really found the right thing. Found the slam save clip on one of those passes, but still don't have anything for those other two things though.
Possibly not for family, but two locked balls for Gromphlomite battle at customs could surely be the first then the second Megaseeds being shelved by Morty? Lol.
Or, First scene/lock with Rick pointing his arm and finger Wayy up in the air, explaining... "I'm gonna' need you to put 'em Waay up inside your buthole Morty!" . 6s
Then second ball lock/scene in customs; 'Did you get those seeds all the way up your butt!?' . 'Yeah Rick.' . 22s
Also this could kinda work for collecting extra ball, if a custom callout was available!?
"Lick Lick Lick my -extra- Balls!" Lol
Or maybe if it's possible to somehow get "EXTRA" on the side of the van/heli before "BALL FONDLERS". Lol
EXTRA BALL, FONDLERS! !
:3
Quoted from macethetemplar:The operation Phoenix could work for an extra ball. It’s a few seconds for all the sections of the lights/equipment to power up so timing should work. Extra ball floating in the liquid. Besides an extra ball is like an extra life...[quoted image]
Quoted from delt31:Haha. Nice. Well I agree - it does come up a lot. I don’t recall what episode it’s from either or why you would need to check your teeth but if you end up finding out why, good one to replace with more variety ; )
Evil morty!
Doofus Rick!
Cheers
You would go and get your teeth checked to confirm what reality you are in. Different realities, different teeth. Doesn't Rick keep a dental chart for this? Lol
The full quote might help you with context:
" ... Uh oh, you might be in a new reality, go get your teeth checked!"
.... so like identifying with dental records, except confirming you are actually where (dimension/reality) you thought you were (or not).
I hope that helps for you.
Quoted from jonesjb:epthegeek I had a quick look for a wide shot, then found this scene in rick potion #9 (even better!). I think it's on point (just after 8 minutes into the episode)...
First part of the animation could even be split to focus on either Rick or Morty during the run to the car. What do you think?
[quoted image]
Quoted from epthegeek:Ooh, maybe. We’re using that for the Rick Potion #9 adventure - but it might be ok to re-use.
Only problem, Morty is in the wrong clobber, wearing a torn suit instead of his usual.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:What video was that?
The podcast, recorded on video this month.
Quoted from newovad:Don't listen to Jones, he had his held while he moved. I just disregard all the outliers, including most of 180-200 as that seems to be the international block. We have different distributors asking for money at different times, which can also confuse things. 204 arrived last Thursday, 217 paid up today. 205-213ish should arrive this week. Let's start with that and go from there.
But most importantly, just breathe (while the Canadians mess up the logic of what we think we know with their out of sequence numbers).
Remember, international block is Not a "block" as such. Mine is #500 which has been built now, international just Built in the 180-200 "Period", along with the standards and whatever numbers scattered across the build numbers.
Makes guessing timeframes easily skewed significantly.
Quoted from melumga:Any Aussies have an idea when they'll arrive on our shores?
Container left last week, info from Spooky.
Probably floating on the ocean by now... hopefully the Ricks go undetected by MR NIMBUS! Lol
Break a leg!
Quoted from xfassa:Well....i went back to the drawing board. I really didn't like the original or my reprint in translucent green. So. I tried to make a death crystal version. Any better?
[quoted image]
Looks great! ... an idea for even further improvment; the crystals can hide the spring mount, mount the crystals to the stationary outer section instead as someone else suggested. Even maybe make the spring mount just a smidge shorter, and then adjust for less violent ship movement?
Quoted from zaphX:Not everyone reports their progress, and batches for overseas go out of sequence.
A container load of Ricks is due to stop floating on the ocean around 27th October, to be united with their Oz Mortys... #500 is among the full container
Quoted from gonzo73:My favorite ridiculous animal in the Playerpuss, but Im terrified of visiting Australia, because I grew up watching Mad Max, the Earthling, Road Games, Picknick at Hanging Rock, on the beach, and Walkabout. In everyone of these films people travel into the country and horrible shit happens.
Jesus! in Walkabout the Father tries to gun down his kids, then blows his brains out. And this is in the first 4 minutes.
The Shire looks much more relaxing.
Don't forget about the drop bears, flying kangaroos, and very large cow snatching saltwater crocodiles
p.s. the last one is the actual tourist killer, maybe cos crocs are more placid where they come from?
The Platypus, verging on extinct... a mammal that lays eggs!... if you see one in the wild buy a lottery ticket! They are really very cute!
d8e8a3709c8948a9bcbaf716be16e158_18 (resized).jpg
Also like snakes, they won't hurt you anyway, if you don't surprise them by sticking your finger up their bum or whatever. lol
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Haha, lets hope not
It's all good... aparently we get opposite to NZ...
We get the Aussie Eddition; all the Grey Legs with the Purple Armour!
Will sit by TNA just nice!
Quoted from Izzy24:I got the 4 GI’s working, I found the unplugged connection. But I still haven’t been able to get the light under the crystals to work [quoted image][quoted image]
Plugged on right way around?
Right place?
I'm gonna say check with Spooky support before going rotating any plugs around any way you're not sure.
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:What are location people doing on updates?
Haven’t been updating and code is from over a month ago...wary of updating due to these freezes.
What is the latest public stable version?
I am assuming that the freezing and resets issues should only be happening for the Beta and testing/feedback folks??
I guess the game would surely ship with good stable code?. Us operators don't really want the game resetting or freezing too regularly for customers, when it can be turned on for 8 hours a day.
I know it will all get smoothed out fine in time. Just need to confirm what is the current stable Non freezing version of code that can be put on the game when it arrives next month, so that it is not resetting or freezing onsite and can make it through each day without copping an "out of order" sign from the location owner.
Quoted from gonzo73:Four hours, 30, 40 games in, no lock ups. Or resets. Rock solid.
[quoted image]
What code revision is installed?
Quoted from hawkmoon:For us who haven't got our pin yet, what are you showing us in the previous pic???
Quoted from shimmydisc:I got standard 724. What’s the lowest confirmed number for a standard?
I know of one somewhere in the six hundreds... can't remember exactly, would have to look it up.
Afaik "standards" are not the last series of numbers. They just generally get built last, some international standards have been built already.
Quoted from greenhornet:here are some scattered notes on machines in the 200s. earliest date listed is when info on that machine number was first noted. date followed by 'c' came from club thread. no 'c' from hype thread.
Something helpful to potentially add perhaps, so that waiters can see what volumes of build numbers get skipped. Add in any games that have already been built, such as #500 which is in a container on its way to me now!! Hoorah!!!! :3 ... Along with a few dozen other international games already done.
When it gets to say # 300 been built .... there could well be less than 400 builds left to go, if that makes sense. Skipping all the completed build numbers. Like my #500 that is already done.
You see, the recent delays here and there that have meant inconsistency, from international builds out of order, come back around in bursts of rapid progression later, as those done numbers pass through the local build in sequence.
I suppose any low build number standards to local buyers also get skipped, until last.
Quoted from Hijacked:I’ve got # 193- standard edition
Quoted from Cantabkiwi:Arrived and being set up in New Zealand.
Big thank you to RotaDave and the SpookyTeam.
(Yes it’s got custom purple legs with black trim. Its the limited,limited NZ version)
[quoted image]
Standard Limited New Zealand Edition!
Super Super Limited!
Quoted from canea:Yes! I hear this too every time.
I'm no programmer, or anything. Just a thought though, could this be some programming unclosed loop or mismatch... a leftover or whatever, maybe leading to wierd gremlins at next powerup?
Sometimes even the smallest wierd things could be useful, I would guess. Could mean nothing, but at least we know.
Could it be happening with every game with that code, and only a few people notice? ... is it processing a voice file? .... is it just man in the moon speaker noise?
Quoted from gac:Thanks everyone. I'll try to manually adjust the leaf blades and see what happens. However, I've never heard of the "outer" switch blade (first to make contact) controlling the upper flipper on a machine. If they are designed to activate the lower flipper first, how could it somehow be reversed? Sorry for my lack of understanding.
Yes the longer leaf against the cabinet should be the bottom flipper afaik. Yes it will close first.
It seems we are considering the possibility upper and lower might be swapped somewhere?, explaining how the bottom flipper might be intermittent, being controlled by the shorter inner switch (not making good second step contact).
If this has happened, adjusting the switches may aleviate the intermittent flipper, but they would then always still have to be staging backwards.
Quoted from gonzo73:HEY!
Forgot this, saturday night I took off the front legs to adjust.
The right leg had pressed into the vinyl art on the front cab and ripped the vinyl.
Why not the leg recesses on Tna, or Alice.
This is a design regression spooky.
Fun! Right kiddoes?
I'll get a picture of it tomorrow night. It ripped it right at the top front leg corner as it starts to taper up.
Leg protector's for those who are still waiting for thier games?
I think so!
What color? I'm pissed so I dont care what color.
Start ordering.
At least its covered by the leg.
Mildly pissed in the Freeek Kingdom.
Quoted from PinMonk:Not leg protectors. They need standoffs. I'm surprised spooky machines don't ship with them...
https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html
What? Lol ... really??
My TNA was fitted with them from factory... I thought this was basically a standard now. If there really are none for RaM's, I must say would be a bit disappointing really?.
I may have to order some more of those before I can play, no way I'm bolting legs on there or setting up without them in place? .... 
My game is about 2-3 weeks away now, getting very close!! :3
Edit: Post confusion cleared up, all good!
Quoted from DNO:My game has this damage as well, cutting by the protector isn't going to help much as the damage is from the leg, well outside of the protector.
In my case the game was being played and the legs worked a little loose, allowing the leg to dig into the decal.
even after tightening the legs, they still were pretty much right against the decal, that's not really right.
Its almost as if the leg bends around the protector and into the cabinet, making the metal shim protector basically useless.
I put some of the plastic "slightly larger than the leg" type protectors on and called it a day, mine is a route game anyway.
but I would recommend that people keep the leg bolts tight, and inspect the gap between the leg and cabinet. and you may need to add more protection to be safe.
Yeah it is definitely more about the way the top flange of the leg is formed. I've found it varies quite a bit. It's like some legs are "over-formed" or something. The mounting face forming overall less than 90 degrees, meaning the outer edges project toward the cabinet. When pressing, the same dies can give a different result depending on a few factors, one being material, another being tonnage (or force). More force or less springy material will affect the "set" or the amount of "spring back". If the cabinet protector standoffs were slightly larger all would be fine, one solution.
Example, 1 out of 4 of my TNA legs touches the cabinet no matter where I bolt it on. All other legs there is about 1mm gap at minimum, both sides.
It just means I put that leg on the back, so that it rubs on the rear cabinet face. Just a slightly off kilter pressing, slightly out of tolerance in some way.
Larger leg protector standoffs would be the practical fix, I would rekon.
I don't like the artwork cut away around the leg outline. Same with playfields incidentally, and deleted art around posts etc. , because everyone can't achieve as good as we could 30 years ago, apparently.
Quoted from PinMonk:Very similar to the issue I had on the back legs for Dialed In. I just put two nylon washers between the inside leg and the metal standoff and that moved it out enough to stop the contact with the cabinet. Short of a leg redesign, a thicker metal standoff would also take care of this.
More surface area hey? ... a little larger footprint so standoff comes closer to edges of legs.
Quoted from Fytr:Well they should be fine in this case so long as the metal guard under them prevents the plastic guard from hitting the decal at all.
Problem being that the over formed leg would still flex the plastic inward, to a collision course with the cabinet decal just the same They are bigger than leg outline so could be even worse..
Quoted from hawkmoon:Well,I don't have to say anything anymore, the last hundred posts say it for me! Don't they!!!!
JJP and Stern legs are same story, variability, some legs still get into the cabinet despite the standoffs.
If the standoffs from the supplier extended say 5mm more all the way around, it wouldn't be a problem.
If we needed a canary in a cage for minor pinball issues, you're a prime candidate!!
Try raising minor issues like this in a stern thread, and see if anything pro active ever comes about there!
Quoted from MarkA:Good question!
Easily???, no (IMO). How many times does Bluetooth work flawlessly? I still can't get my Bose to hold a connection to my phone while I am on a call with my PC! Drives me crazy! Pinnovators chose to stick with a direct connection for now because you simply plug in your headphones and it just works.
Will BT get perfected on Pinball? Absolutely! But for now, our kit gives you everything you need at your fingertips. (mute choice, game level, headphone level).
The other issue is there may be a delay in the audio from the machine to your head (latency) I belive they have improved on that since I last checked.
I hope that answers your question.
Did you get a chance to listen to the audio in the video yet? It's amazing! Scott did a great job on the sound!!
Mark
To quote "Chopper":
"It either Works, or it uses Bluetooth ... but it can't be fu@king both!"
Quoted from JohnDeere:Wait, are those holes for checking if the flippers are set correctly? Just use a toothpick and line them up or something?
A "datum" point, reference to assist with flipper alignment and symetry.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:... Aaaand they're sold out again.
Hope you're making more! I need one, too!
I think the run might be about 750...
Quoted from jonesjb:Definitely not normal. What is your hold strength at? Keep it at medium or lower otherwise they may overhead and weaken.
The hold strength isn't what overheats coils. That heat comes prodominantly from the power strokes, and associated settings.
Quoted from PinMonk:That sticking might be related to the EOS being too tightly adjusted which is a quirk related to the Spooky hardware somehow.
Or, it could be a broken coil stop.
Quoted from arzoo:When I checked the flipper mech I noticed that the EOS leaf was engaging way before the end of the flipper stroke and that was adding an additional pressure and (I'm assuming) robbing power. I adjusted the EOS so it engaged at the end of the stroke and the flipper seems to make the left ramp shot more consistently, even with the power lowered to 40. The only issue is now occasionally the flipper will stick in the up position?
I haven't checked the coil stop yet.
Also sometimes, the switch leaf can "grip" or snag on the pawl/crank switch activating tang, binding it up at the full stroke position.
Suggesting this as it adds up with that you have been adjusting the eos switch.
Sometimes with alot of deflection the rubber boot on the crank tang can hook up on the very end of the switch blade (for some setups) preventing the crank/flipper from freely returning to rest.
1 week later
Quoted from Kevlar:I've made that ( deflection ) shot too and actually messaged Eric saying he should code something in for when that happens, a sort of ' NO FUCKING WAY! ' callout or similar. I guess it would be impossible to know if it came off the upper flipper or the lower flipper though so that rules that out
Wouldn't a 3 switch sequence (orbit/loopback, right flip, left ramp) within a tight time window be able to pick that up?
Yeah you may be right, a bit tight...
Quoted from pinball_ric:Updated my previous shooter lane fix with a picture.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/146#post-5949377
Whoa what happened to the powdercoating in that pic!?! ... looks like the ramp wire bends on instalation and removal or something? ... and it's mostly flaked off!?
That method of holding the ramp down by Spooky is certainly... interesting.
Looks like a bit more precision might be worthwhile when bending that bit of the ramp sometimes, perhaps?, to prevent the launch malfunctioning. Most don't have this problem though either hey?. Even in best case I still can't imagine quite how the curved ramp anchor end design and a straight drilled hole in wood?? , could ever mate together too well (if that is what that is)?.
The patchup solution you have there looks like it's doing the job pretty well, as long as the fix stays in place... I fear it may only be temporary. I rekon that ramp anchor is probably going to flop around more and more every launch, til the rubbers eventually work their way down and the malfunctioning comes back again and so then stuck again with the same problem.
I suppose could use superglue, and scrape it off each time we want to remove the ramp ....
Quoted from pinball_ric:From the wireform wiggling up and me pushing it back down.. the rubber was pretty tight so maybe it pulled the powder coat with it? no idea
Part of the idea of powdercoating is that it's a tough durable protective coating. It is also fairly rigid, and doesn't like being on stuff that bends substantially. It flakes off, even more easily if it is not prepared and stuck well.
I have been very uneasy from the start with this thing about Bending powdercoated wire around all over the place willy nilly, and the flexing associated with the thin wire being pounded by the ball, especially at the excessive overhangs..
Looks like a very well built game overall. But letting it down, the launch wire ramp seems like it could have been better implemented somehow. All things considered, a minor and maybe subjective issue. Still, nothing that could stop me from loving this awesome game!.
Quoted from melumga:I received my machine yesterday (the first in Australia to do so, I’m told) and it hasn’t been the best experience. I started feeling anxious when I noticed the top of the box was bulging and had a tear in it (image 1)
Here is my list of day 1 woes:
- Chip in butter cabinet (front left) - image 2.
- Cabinet splits in both front sides - image 3, 4.
- Coat pooling under leg area on front left - image 5.
- Left ramp was not aligned with hole in back wall and dug into it. image 6.
- “Hardware Connection Failed” error at boot up. Power cable to board in backbox unplugged. All good now.
- Right speaker not working. Caused by broken clip that holds the end of the wire in the receiver in the cab. Reassembled the clip. All good.
- Ball save timer screen not displaying all sections of the numbers. Loose cable under the screen. Keeps coming loose every few games.
- Phantom ball locks occurring a lot. The game erroneously thinks a ball has been locked in the horse shoe and then launches a second ball into play. Flippers stop after one of the balls has drained. I’m on latest code - 2020.10.12
- Game reboots when another ball is in play due to a phantom ball lock situation and Gromflomite MB is started.
I've emailed Spooky and am awaiting a response.
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Whoa man! ... 
When my TNA arrived I got the box separately, it was "New Out of Box" lol, the staples couldn't hold the box together very well on their own at all after a few handlings... I know I dodged a bullet with it. I'll say Bills Pinball Transport saved my arse on that one!. The box wanted some glue or something in combination with the staples.
About 10 days to go here, mine has to travel the breadth of Oz still yet as well... we will see how that goes I guess fingers X'd, I'll certainly post for the occasion!.
Quoted from northerndude:Crappy for a couple of those items for sure. The connections, thats been pretty normal. I bet the cabinet corner split must be all the movement for being in transit that long?
I have a used Alien machine that came from Netherlands to Oz ... +2 months ocean freight And a shipping transfer/reload... a couple of thumb screws rattled out of the coin mech holder in the coin door, but no rickety or split cabinet corners with that cabinet, and that is a machine full of bulk weight!. Idk?
See what #500 looks like when it gets here I guess ....
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:Wayne, that is indeed a very good point mate. It's the one factor that hasn't been made clear yet. I had (quite possibly falsely) assumed the container was delivered to Mark's warehouse for unloading or at least he was there to supervise the unloading of it at the forwarding agent's warehouse. I've asked for that specific as it would most certainly explain the situation. It would also no doubt affect how Spooky views the situation. It also would back up my feeling that it was a mistake Spooky didn't engage you like they have in the past, which is also relevant for the guys already having tech issues out of the box.
The contents of the container would have been inspected by AQIS and ABF of course, at a quarantine warehouse. They wouldn't care in the least if one or two tipped over, and why wouldn't they neglect to report any "minor mishap" if they think there is any possibility they might get away with it? ... the lack of "Tip and Tell" and Drop/Shock labels is a big downer for shipping a NIB pinball across the planet in 2020. Considering the risk it is cheap insurance and encouragement for handlers to respect the goods.
*Edit: Guessing... updated a couple of posts above.
Quoted from melumga:Mark sent me some photos of the games as he received them. He states that "They put 8 of the games on top of other games. Yours was one of the ones underneath hence the damage on the top. Travelling 40 days on a ship with 130kg games on top. I think there also must have been some rough weather as it looks like those games on top might have moved around a lot. That’s a lot of weight on the games underneath".
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I'm sure nobody would mind paying an extra bunch of dollars to have them shipped upright. One shot thing isn't it?. I couldn't believe how cheap the shipping cost was this time. I can obviously understand why now though. I guess restrictions wouldn't have helped oversight either...
Would Tip n Tell have possibly prevented this?
How could anyone seriously pack our games like that?
This is kinda depressing. Wait over a week to find out how cronenberged my Rick is ...
There is no way there is going to be any more than 1 or 2 undamaged games from in there.
Quoted from arzoo:Wow this pin is brutal on the tips of the flippers! These are Titans I put on from day one (about a month ago). I've switched back to the black bands from Spooky for now. I guess it makes sense given that the garage, left ramp, and right orbit all require shots at the very end of the flipper.
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Titans have a really short lifespan in my experience. I won't buy them anymore, I got tired of rotating and replacing them all the time. Superbands are the way to go for me, hands down.
I don't get why spooky still has to use those really crappy post rubbers they are weak as piss. Super light weight.
Quoted from jonesjb:I tried Superbands in this pin and really didn’t like them. Superbands put so much spin on the balls that it really affects the vectors of the shots.
I notice bugger all difference really, but I definately prefer the way superbands play anyway, so it's superbands all ways to me. Maybe it's partly just what people are used to, IDK.
All I know is the silicone is junk, and nowhere near durable enough for me to bother putting on any of my pinballs ever again, it gets all trashed up and pinched to pieces in notime man. Tried it out too many times already in the past few years. Silicone for pinball rubbers just sucks nads I say.
Only place I still have them is on protected spike posts, for nudge bounce effect which isn't as prominent with the superbands.
I'd say I prefer super bands not because of the way they play, but because they are durable and consistent. Best value. Prefering the way they play is likely just a result of Superbands being what I mostly play pinball with. Love it!
Quoted from o-din:I put traditional green rubbers on mine day one , you know, real rubber (kinda matches the color scheme), and they have been on for months now. They seem to work great.
Yeah I would choose genuine rubber bands before silicone, especially for flippers and post sleeves. I prefer rubber than urethane, but with games on location using urethane means I never have had to replace them, just cleaning. Superbands have been by far most cost effective in my situation.
Quoted from melumga:I really don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but aside from the cabinet damage during transit (which I’m sure Spooky will make right), I’m also having issues with phantom ball locks and reboots. Here’s a video (shot over 3 consecutive games) that captures the weirdness.
I’ve checked and reseated all of the optos. The switch test shows the correct switches firing as the ball activates them. The dropdown target tests pass with no errors.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Mr Meeseeks was def right ... "It's gettin' wierd!" Lol
Send log data to Eric perhaps hey?
There could be some mixed up switch connectors, or something, too?
Also, is the ball save countdown timer intended to come to a halt part way through its countdown, for seconds at a time? . It resumes from the time it stopped at, unlike some display freeze/recovery.
Quoted from melumga:I really don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but aside from the cabinet damage during transit (which I’m sure Spooky will make right), I’m also having issues with phantom ball locks and reboots. Here’s a video (shot over 3 consecutive games) that captures the weirdness.
I’ve checked and reseated all of the optos. The switch test shows the correct switches firing as the ball activates them. The dropdown target tests pass with no errors.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Oh and I'm on the latest code - 2020.10.12.
I notice a repeated anomaly in your video there.
Twice (maybe more) in the video at 27 sec and 55 sec, you bash the Right flipper and at the same time the ball save Pauses and the game goes into sequence to launch a ball and adds the second ball.
Perhaps something shooter lane or trough related could do some of this, too?
Is this something to do with that "flipper switch hits the shooter plunger" thing, or some such??
Quoted from PinMonk:The point I was trying to make is the transparency that was wanted in the original design can be preserved while at the same time making the part actually durable by separating it into two pieces with a springloaded hinge. If people don't care about trying to keep it looking OEM, then that doesn't matter.
Two things, first the most straightforward simple way to solve is to just cut a piece from Lexan or other material that is actually appropriate for the application, secondly this doesn't happen to most other games does it. There is some other condition that causes these to break on a small proportion of machines. It has been stated before that the post coil adjustment can be too high which causes excessive or more violent deflection of the ship. So it probably just requires that the up post coil be adjusted so that it does not push the ship up so far.
Just highlighting stuff that has been covered and bounced around earlier in the thread.
Quoted from cooked71:Can we just use the Tie Fighter On A Spring mech?
Prolly not Lol
They break too apparently don't they? . Also Lil Deadpools drop off the perch as well, mate here his broke off in his LE not long after he got it.
Quoted from PinMonk:Do any other pins have a post that repeatedly bends a piece of plastic over and over? I can't think of any...
Not the same way, but my Frankenstein launches balls full toss onto playfield plastics by design! Pmsl
Watch in awe as balls bounce off of the sheet plastic in there. Yeah they deflect/flex. Yeah they break Lol
I replaced most of the plastic guards with faceshield plastic (Lexan) . They bounce better now, and do not break.
Quoted from gliebig:I don't even notice my stock fan noise.
You must not be doing it right!?
You just aren't focusing hard enough on it yet still, that's all!!
With some extra practice you'll be able to pay more attention to it in the background, so that it can bother you the entire time you're playing the game!!
Don't feel left out though if you still aren't bothered, it isn't for everyone hey. 
Quoted from LouMatt:I think that's a good idea. I was wondering if there was an option to do that already actually, I just haven't checked yet.
You can't do that with code, it is the horseshoe up post, and is part of the rule set/playfield programming..
If you want to disable it you'd need to do it mechanically/physically by preventing some component from striking the ship, but letting the up post still operate.
Still needs to be pinpointed as to just why the vast majority of games are not breaking their ship pivot plates.
Not using PeT-G is the main part of the solution since its characteristics do not fit with the application which is repeated fatigue from flexing. PeT-G is just too prone to cracking, even if it is slightly better than acrylic.
As I've said, if (when) it happens to me I will simply be making a new one just the same but from appropriate polymer. Done sorted. Over.
Metals will introduce their own myriad of problems depending on what metal, no really Suitable metal options that are not more costly than what is actually needed, and aesthetically less pleasing to boot. A 2 buck piece of lexan should not be such a perplexing hurdle for anyone, it's readily available. Way simpler as well than delving into fraught metal alternatives, which most will still crack just the same anyway... unless you like rust, or flaky paint, or oils inside your machine??.
Quoted from tarzxvf:Maybe the ship coil needs tweaked to be less powerful? I've got a lot of games on mine and have not had any problems yet, but I did buy a backup plastic just in case.
Indeed, can't it be adjusted down in power?
Another place I see there could be a variable that impacts this, the two nyloc fixings farthest from the ship... if these are left without tension (or loose) so that only the locknut holds them in place, I think that could well be spreading the flex enough then to prevent the rapid breakage, The flexing will be less concentrated and spread over more areas of the plastic since that mounting point can now change angle and move a little, rather than being held so rigid and forcing the flex to concentrate along that one line.
This is a factor that could be quite variable at the factory. First thing I will be doing is making sure those two bolts have some slack.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:So I don’t know if this is the same issue some people are having with their right lower flipper or not but I’m sharing this fix I just did on mine because the scenario seemed similar.
So I’m on day 3 of owning RM and yesterday I started noticing the lower flipper starting to act funny.
Not flipping sometimes, being weak (meaning ball was pushing the flipper back down) not being able to make the left ramp or shoot the ball more than halfway up the playfield and the flipper would also flutter.
So I checked the coil and it was fine, not binding and seemed ok. Then looked at the flipper button and noticed it wasn’t really making good contact because that long plastic bar that gets pressed by the actual button was just barely engaging the leaf switch contacts. So I tried adjusting those but still had issues.
After removing the switch and using what I had on hand here’s a few pictures of what I did to improve the button, lever and switch contact. I just cut some smaller zip ties up and put one small piece of duct tape around it to keep it where I needed better contact.
It’s working great now!
I know there’s a post about a disc or something that’s from the No Fear pin but I didn’t have that and so, like I said, I used what I had on hand.
Also I just want to say thanks to Chris at Kingpin games for helping me out with the issue. I texted him about it and he called me right away to help. Thanks Chris!
****If you make this same fix make sure the zip tie head is placed in line with the top of the closet leaf switch lever. Look closely at the pictures. The picture I took of the plastic lever out where you can see the zip ties and tape clearly is a picture I took of it before I placed in in the correct position.
***I added a pic of the zip tie size that I used 2 of.
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Now we can see how backwards staging is possible only from adjustment, and without swapped wires
Normally that first switch blade would be longer, meaning it Must close before the second switch can be pushed closed. Not sure why such an unusual reach-over (and short blade?) setup has been used. I suppose there must be some good reason.
Does anybody know where we go to get the service manual for Rick and Morty?
Like this one for TNA...
https://www.ipdb.org/files/6444/2017_Total_Nuclear_Annihilation_Service_Manual_dated_4_17_2019.pdf
I was speaking with another owner whom had seen his machine from the container, said on his game the playfield hangers came out of the lockdown receiver. Playfield dropped into the cabinet.
I assume the spring loaded clips allowed it to come out. Either it's not positive lock enough, or there were some extreme forces involved. Idk.
I get the reasons for the change, but still imho it was a mistake to move away from the positive lock receiver/lockbar setup. It allowed adjustment, provided more support for the bar (brass screw heads), and more secure.
Quoted from Good-Times:Wow what a nightmare the entire consignment has been! Do you know if his was one that was stacked on its side on top?
I think it was a bottom one, correctly oriented, another game perched on top of it.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:They might look pretty nice on top of the back box with a pinball in its arms (instead of butter).
Put a whitewater dome on the top and let it aimlessly wander around Lol... "Oh My God!" ...
Quoted from FuryosJustin:Other dimensions pop up quite often,you get all those ones with the glitchy/remix sounds, like pop deactivated, super spinner, left side triple, family targets triple... Plenty come up, don't know what you guys are on about.....plus the other ones mentioned, what other game has so many dimensions lol
Sounds to me like the adjustment is already there for anyone whom needs it, as already suggested, set the machine to 10 ball games... solved!
Quoted from pinballslave:Not having the pleasure to play this game... when you enter a new dimension, is the ball in the subway or trapped somewhere else at this moment?
If so, there could be the option to choose which dimension, from all those available for a specific category, you play... I realise that idea is going to wind some people up, but, if it's there as an adjustment in the settings, some might love it... more code needed than just simply truly randomising of course. Just a thought...
What happens is that there is a staged ball in a trough directly above the left inlane. When a ball goes in the garage the staged ball is immediately popped out into the inlane, a teleport effect. Bait and switch. While you play with the staged ball now, the ball that went into the portal/garage runs down the subway and becomes the new staged ball.
Quoted from xfassa:Wow.... those went quick. Currently, I am out of the blue crystal mod. I have enough parts to make one last batch of 10. It will probably take me a week to build them. If anyone is interested in getting on the list, please send me a PM. Thanks for all the support!
PM Sent!
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