You are more than welcome anytime!

I'm looking into some sort of battery universe mod using a capacitive screen. I have ideas of what I want it to do, but I have only a vague idea to go about it.

without going into things leading to legal details...

character lounging around / or some kind of calm setting when nothing is happening, that may change occasionally (representing day to day life). When you look in, this is what you see.

If you tap on the window, they freak out, or something crumbles, or run around frantically, cowering...

A small speaker in the cabinet that when playing the game, things like tilts, or the shaker going off triggers audio of distant (small) screams, or something to the effect of people screaming 'what's happening!!?' (calamity/chaos) using some form of mercury switch.

Just brainstorming at the moment.

Is the butter cab worth 1000.00?

Depends on the customer, really.

If it is always gonna be burried in a lineup, out on location or likely to be sold in the next year or two? Probably not.

Mine is staying here and standing alone in its spot. Since a NIB may very well be a one off for me, I opted for the Candy Coating.

Yes...if you have the $$. Even if you sell it down the road, I'm convinced it will be a desired feature and you will get your money back (since it's "limited" and gorgeous). Just look at what Stern customers pay for LE's and they get very little in return. Shit, the art and clear on my Spooky cabinet looks nice than many Stern PF's The craftsmanship is amazing.

Anyone have a schematic for R&M? Specifically what power connection on what board controls what solenoids? Mine blew the left fuse on the upper board. Only replacement I had was a 3A fast blow which went right way. I bought some fuses off Amazon but won't have them until freakin' Wednesday. In the meantime I'd like to know what that fuse controls so I can troubleshoot. I've heard tales of the right flipper combined with magnasave but have no idea if that's true.

Can I throw a 5A fast blow in there or is that a terrible idea? This is why I want a schematic.

One more thing: those fuse holders are crap! I know they're not made by Spooky but Jeebus H! I know I'll be replacing those at some point. Ok, rant off. Please help me.

3 amps compared to 5 amps is a pretty significant difference. What was the original fuse rated at?

Original fuses are 4A slow-blow.

I don’t think I would risk it but that’s just me. Even a 1 amp difference could be problematic for these controller boards.

Ace Hardware carries Buss 3A, 4A, 5A Slo Blo (timed) fuses in a variety pack (and some single packs if you're lucky). Packages are yellow and they're usually on an end cap. There's an Ace about 7 miles from you. I would do that. Over fusing is a BAD idea, especially if you have a bad transistor or coil that caused the fuse to blow.

No other pinheads around you to borrow a couple 4A from? If you were close, I'd happily lend you a handful until you're straightened around.

While the fuse is blown, test the transistor to make sure it's not shorted and also the coil resistance (ohms) to make sure that one of those isn't bad. Because if they are, they will just blow the fuse again immediately.

An uncompounded 10% discrepancy may be fair to consider acceptable, in general only. That would still point to 5 in place of 4 is over-rated by 25%, that is more than double your "rough line in the sand" .... I wouldn't be doing it in my game either. Especially given that your properly rated(?) 4A fuse blew, suggesting an actual issue.

I had a good 2-shot combo in the game today, unintentional but still a fun one to try to pull off. With no locks lit, I hit the left side of the flooble crank, which richoched into the left car lock, which had opened a moment prior.

I'm still wondering where the solenoid list is? Something caused the fuse to blow in the first place. It's on location so I obviously want it up an running ASAP. I don't remember getting a manual or anything with the game. I'll email spooky and see what I can get out of them.

Are people having to pay tax and delivery fees on their games? If so, what are they charging for delivery?

Somehow I managed a "Double Super Skill Shot" yesterday. Didn't even know it existed! Pretty cool.

The inner loop multiplies the skillshot, if you make it after looping. More loops = more multiplier.

Which is great if you hit the skill shot at the end, but do you get anything besides charging the car if you hit the inner loop repeatedly but miss the skill shot at the end? It's practically all luck, no time to aim, the way the ball whips around there after two loops! I wonder if I wouldn't be farther ahead in the long run just going straight for the garage. Just another strategy decision, I know, but more info leads to better decisions.

Risk/Reward

Many owners in this thread have adjusted many of the ball guides on R&M. The only ball guide I adjusted is the guide that feeds the right upper flipper, which improved the feed to the flipper considerably.

At the moment, the only "bogus drains" I'm getting has to do with the right orbit and diverter. When I nail the orbit with the left flipper (while the diverter extended), the ball often goes straight down the right outlane. Does this happen to other folks?

I know there are recommendations to adjust the loop guide, but I thought that was for when the ball is moving in the other direction (from the upper flipper).

Thanks for any advice.

Quick review for those interested...

The hooked on pinball lighted rail kit and pinball life RaM hinges.

I was a bit skeptical on the hinges I liked them but also felt bad taking off the spooky logo from the hinge / machine. They looked good but look a lot better lit up... like Rick himself I suppose.

The portal light is nice as well and really sticks out when your in a dim room or without the overhead lights up.

Install - install was easy. Really just a screw driver and some clear tape and 1 socket to swap the hinges if you do that as well.

Overall I am happy with it. And looks good with the bright button upgrade as well.

On suggestion would make is that I would like to have ability to have it fade I and out. Something simple set it and forget it like the bright buttons use... that would really make it pop and stand out.

Right not they are just on or off with the button.

If anyone know how to make that happen (fade in and out) let me knownthat would look bad ass

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I've done this several times, and every time I shake my head and know it was bullshit, but lucky

Is there a loops champion coded in?

Thanks for the review. I bought the same kit which is now in my box of R&M mods for when my game arrives. Glad to see the install with the bright flipper buttons (which I also have). Just curious what you did on the other side with your magna save button and how that side looks?

EDIT: Ah, I can see in the photo with your playfield up that you went green on that button too. Can you post a pic from the right side so I can see the overall look with 2 green buttons and the glowing portal? Thanks again!

dunno how you're set up but the machine that i play at my local will hit noob noob if you just hold down the right flip, as i recall

Is there a place I can see the Rick and morty code revisions?

I also see a code date 1/3/21 I would think that is brand new but don’t see any talk about it?

Thanks

01.03 was one of the betas, Not a public release.

Public release change log is available here: https://soldmy.org/rm_changelog.txt

Bug fixes and tweaks, no new content.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/194#post-6057583

703, checking in. Hoping to get it by May for a self birthday present. Also if someone could do me the honor of verifying my account I would be forever grateful! Haha, the only time I can post here is when it slows down

Also does spooky plan on releasing a manual?

A couple of games from mid week, a friend learning how to play...

*ummm, there is swearing and stuff in the vids, hah ha, you know ... just sayin' ....

These vids still December public code... I love how on the game restart the ball search shoots the ball into the scoop with the upper flipper

Been using new code all weekend now, might be no additions, but definately noticing things that are changed/fixed!. Haven't encountered any problems, so far so good.

Sorry but there was a bit too much alchohol and shenanigans and recovery going on at the weekend, new code recording kinda got neglected ... lol

Thanks EP!

does spooky plan on releasing a manual?

Hell no!! Spooky does,nt print manuals !!!

Didn't you back out of your purchase after all the negative comments you love to post? If that's the case, why are you still in the owners thread spewing your negative bullshit? Go hate on Spooky somewhere else. No one here wants to listen to your drivel.

Just tinkering today. Just did this as a test.
If somebody wants to pipe it to a bigger display the DVI channel on the MB is live.

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I was thinking about tossing the video out to one of my tv’s for fun. Doesn’t it have an HDMI out to use?

how does that hinge light hook up? I dont see any pics of install

HDMI out is used for default display. They make DVI to HDMI cables though.

On the button portals is that using the factory portal art, and just attaching el paper behind it?

Anti rattle tape arrived today.
Outcome = fantastic. Dampens the bass from the glass, even dampens and softens up the shaker on machine overall. Good stuff. Now what to do with 5 rolls!?. As 5 rolls was cheaper than 2 on Amazon.

I will use on my DP as I swapped out al the speakers in it and have a tad bit of glass rattle here and there on it

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Factory button portal art is the cabinet decal. I believe the EL (with it's own art) goes over top of the cabinet decal but underneath rails.

So, kind of hilarious on how awful I was in a game today. Played at least two multiballs, started on the factory 4 stamps. I was able to make it to Rick potion #9 (hilarious song btw) and hardly made one shit the entire game. Worst score ever to get as far as I did I’m sure! HA

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So I've been messing with my right flipper switch for a couple weeks now.

I really dislike the tension with the plastic leaf and I tried the no fear spacer, but the switch was drilled in 1-2mm too short so the leaf only sits 1mm on the no fear spacer so if you ever slap the button the spacer slips past the leaf. Another flaw with the spacer is when the leaf sits on the spacer it causes the button to push towards the bottom which causes extra friction, sometimes it starts feeling sticky.

I tried a williams double switch (sw-1010a-13) which fits perfectly but the contacts are tungsten which i guess are designed for higher voltages which im assuming is causing the upper flipper to work intermittently especially if you slap the button. This is just a guess and I'm still unsure why the williams switch isn't working that great. It might have to do with the switch only having 1 ground leaf when spookys has 2 ground leafs. I dunno...

Has anyone had luck with using a different leaf switch? The stern switch on my TSPP looks like a good option also, but I might just take the extra long leaf out of the williams switch and replace it with spookys plastic one.

Let me know if you have any suggestions that will give me consistent flipper tension.

No dynamic tension?

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I am simply trying to say that we don't get to choose the bend radius or anything like that. I am not any happier about it than you are. I did notice our GnR came with metal protectors and then felt protectors also. You could also try 2 sets of metal protectors.

So I ordered a standard edition and it’s too late to upgrade to a Blood Suckers. What side rails does Spooky use?

This was the repair I did to my RM when I first got it. I’ve never had anymore flipper issues with the lower right flipper after making this repair. I’m over 600 games in on my machine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/153#post-5962051

This is also one of the key posts on this thread.

It looks like Rick and Morty Standard edition is only 4 reviews away from being eligible for the Pinside top 100. If it were eligible, it would be in the top 10 based on current reviews. Since it's the same game as the BSE minus the trim differences, it makes sense to review the standard as well and get this game up to where it belongs in the rankings!

I can back up Pinball-Obsessed 100%, I did a variation of his solution and took 2 mins and hit more left garage shots in the first test game than in the previous 10 games probably, not to mention lower right flipper strength consistency.
My mgrs told me "the right flippers died", so I went down planning to install the no fear disc because I had already tried to adjust the leaf and power numerous times. The no fear disc wouldn't work cause I had installed a light on my magnasave button that was going to be in the way. So instead of moving the light I cut two zip ties and got some gorilla ductape and without taking anything out applied them to the leaf upside down from the key note suggestion, I turned the game on and still nothing on my right flippers. Looked at the lower right flipper coil and one of the wires soldering had broken, soldered it back on and played a test game and holy crap it was pure power to both right flippers! Its had a few hundred games since then and still works like a charm.
Just snip 2 zips tape them without getting in the way of the flipper button hitting the factory plastic leaf, and re-adjust your leafs to make proper contact.

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So a few things.

No one has played a standard (just as a point)

But additionally, if a person hasn't played a R&M they shouldn't be reviewing it.

More people have NOT played a R&M than have.