To find the model number, you have to take the LCD out of the metal casing that it sits in. It's a bit of a pain unless youre going to change it.

The controller on the back are identical (just different firmware).

As I said before it's by no means necessary to replace the screen. Just an OCD thing and some people enjoy doing this sort of stuff. And it's cheap - $70-80.

With an IPS or PVA panel the off angle viewing will be much wider, the blacks will be better and the colors should pop more due to better color reproduction.

Also, it would be interesting to know if Spooky has the assets at 1080p in the code and is scaling down to 720p. I doubt they are, but if that was the case, you might get a resolution bump, too.

Or less. Some on alibaba I saw were in the $50 range with shipping for "samples" (i.e. qty 1).

But yeah, totally an OCD upgrade, but definitely improves the display visibly.

Nope. 720p to save on size.

Yeah, I figured. Save the 1080p for the 500 unit Council of Ricks SLE and do a hardware rollup with all the changes and the playfield thickness restored.

Thanks for watching! I concur. This game has the best theme integration into a pinball, ever. Nothing comes close. Karl Urban pulling a few lines in Stern Trek and "Hopper" in Stranger Things sure is cool but it's not as authentic as R&M.

If you're 6' like me you'll see the washout on the very final all-black screen that just has a tiny Morty head on it. The black is grey unless I hunch down and then it goes all black. Also notice it in the "What the hell?" ending sequence as it's so dark. That's really the only time it bothers me at all. But it's the LAST thing I see usually

I have my brightness at 0, contrast 100 and gamma on. I also play it in the dark hence the brightness setting. I do have the PF set pretty steep also. I hadn't considered that until you mentioned it.

.

I’m 6’4” hence me going LG.

Yeah I was going to say "look what can be done when they have all the assets"... but then realized they really didn't - it's missing quite a few voices from the show.

But it's coded SO WELL you never even notice. When they've added a new voice like Scary Terry it was excellent quality. So well done it fits right in with the authentic dialogue made for the machine. It would have been easy for that to hit a wrong note and stick out from the rest of the modes.

The voice work on this game reminds me of the care and quality on many classic WMS/BLY games.

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They had actual up and coming Chicago actors for a number of them. You can hear the talent. Stern using whatever employee is walking by when they're recording leads to memorable-for-all-the-wrong-reasons performances like XMEN's infamous "Shitty Beast and Friends."

I like to play in a dark room and have Pinstadium's on many of my games. I have an extra set and was considering installing them on R&M. Have you added Pinstadium's? Do they plug into the service port? Pleased with the result? Thanks for any feedback.

I think you'll lose lots of the lightshow with Pinstadiums man

Believe me we have these arguments here at least 100x per week! Do we raise price to add this? Do we improve this? Do we spend more on that? Do people care about this? We did this and nobody noticed. We should have never added that. We fixed that but made a different bigger issue. We need to keep price low.
What license do people want? We need to expand to meet demand. New people vs experienced guys lead to build issues.

You guys would be shocked how much we discuss here lol! We have TONS of improvements on a list on the office door here for next game. This stuff is all so much more complicated than surface value.

Appreciate you chiming in here, Luke! It helps in reminding that you are checking out whats going on and probably have take decisions with the spooky gang on what will be fixed and what will be done for next game

Looking so much forward to my RnM!

I feel so silly for even asking this. I’ve done this a zillion times on other games. I’m working on things, so I decided to lower the flippers per Scott’s recommendation. However I can’t get the damn things tight enough. They keep jumping up a little higher after a few games. The Alan screw/bolt is on pretty tight but they just won’t stay. Any ideas? Am I just that weak? Ha!

locktite?

Oh no no. I don’t mean the nut, my fault. The flippers themselves at rest I mean.

OHHHH. Duct tape.

Someone mentioned that the linkages tend to do that once they have been torqued a good bit, once or twice already and will likely need replacing to get that grip again.
So, if you have replacements, swap them.

I don't have my R&M yet...But if these are the type I am thinking they are, it might be possible to add a washer or two and get a hint more bite (at some fresher threads)? I have had that work on the clamping style mechs I am guessing these are.

Anyone hear any word about when the next batch of games with butter cabs will hit the line?

Thanks both of you!

That someone was me, and yes, they likely need replaced now. Look at the pawl where the tightening bolt is... if the two sides reaching around the flipper shaft start to touch where you're tightening it, it's toast and won't tighten again, have to replace. Keep the plungers if they're still like-new (tap out the rollpin) for spares.

if it is gouged, you should be able to swap left and right bat shafts so that you have a new place to tighten up against.

Flipper bats need to be very tight or they will slip. Make sure you are using a hex to hold the other end while you tighten the nut.

TheNoTrashCougar you said "bat shaft." Lol.

New public build available - I'm sure the spooky page will update soon, but you can grab it at https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/ too
Just fixing stuff with this pass - no new content this time.

Build 2020.01.05:
- Added: New "Bonus Coins After" and "Number of Bonus Coins" settings (Default to 0, aka: off).
This way, bonus can be applied differently than full credits.
For an operator request of: $2/game - $3/2 games. So if you pay up $3 at once,
the settings can coin-up the other half credit.
- Fixed: Crash bug in Scary Terry FACTS under certain conditions
- Fixed: Crash possible when the bayou dimension ends based on timing
- Fixed: Ending whirly dirly adventure normally with a scoop shot could leave the diverter in a disabled state.
- Fixed: Mania multipliers reducing too quickly so adventure points weren't also multiplied.
- Fixed: Mania max multiplier was erroneously capped at 3x
- Fixed: Mania multiplier would 'stick' as was on any collected shot during mania, instead of going off.
- Fixed: Mania meeseeks timers didn't pause/resume with system timer pause/resume.
- Fixed: Mania multiplier decay wasn't working properly all the time.
- Fixed: Current active meeseeks multiplier is added to new meeseeks immediately
- Fixed: Crash possible in updating meeseeks for mania info string based on timing at end of game.
- Fixed: Force the bonus calculation to round to nearest 100 to avoid messing with megaseed display
- Changed: Intermittent freezing should be resolved (according to beta test reports)
- Changed: Moved "Pop up" displays in front of full screen video clips.
- Changed: Updated logic for checking if the diverter should remain disabled after a left in-lane.
- Changed: Meeseeks multiplier blue light will fade as it gets closer to lowering in value.
- Changed: Every meeseeks box target hit adds 15 seconds to active good meeseeks - before it would ONLY add
time if there was a bad meeseeks on the playfield. If there were no bad meeseeks, it would just
add new.

Sweetness...thank you for your hard work.

Does anyone else have issues with the autoshooter not firing strong enough to get the ball over the rail during multiball? It works fine during 1 ball play, but during multiball, 50% of the time the ball won't make it up the rail to the playfield.

It's time for me to read some rules. I'm sucking big time. I'm reading the new update and thinking, bad Meeseeks? Time to stop just trying to hit lit shots.

Are we really in the 400's already? I havent heard a peep from Spooky about paying for #493 yet....getting nervous. Whats the deal? I havent been pinsiding at all for months.

They are in the low 400's. They just got off holiday break, so I imagine some new emails should be going out in the next few weeks or so.

Using the flippers on this game makes my room lights flicker more than any other game ever has.

Enough so that I would like to be able to do something about it. It's really distracting. Plus I have to think it's making coils weaker during multiballs, etc, dragging down the line voltage.

I have a big 'ol Best UPS that I could use, just needs a new battery, bet that'd smooth things out.

But that would be a hundred pound bandaid. Maybe a big capacitor on the game's high voltage line?

But maybe it's partly my cheap LED floodlights, they do weird things like glow dimly when the circuit is supposed to be off (on dimmer circuits), so maybe they're sensitive so slight variations in line voltage too. I just never had a problem with it before getting R&M...

Any ideas, opinions or similar complaints?

Wonder if that is in anyway related to the abnormal heat issues with the flipper coils. Pulling too many amps?

Can you try plugging the game into another outlet that's not on the room light circuit?

After swapping flippers and trying my hardest, I just can't get the flipper to stop creeping up after a game or two. i am just going to replace the crank. Before I go getting the wrong one, this is the part (the new one) correct?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-right-flipper-plunger-and-crank-assembly.html

Coincidentally I am dealing with a electrical issue in my basement. My electrician just told me, yesterday in fact, that lights should be wired on one circuit and outlets should be on another. Meaning they should be on separate breakers. So assuming everything is wired correctly pinball machines shouldn’t affect the lights. Unless you have them plugged into your lighting circuit.

So I just learned my lighting and outlets are not wired separately or at least not all of them… And I also think I have some flickering occurring but haven’t looked to see which game causes it. I think I might be checking that tonight when I get home from work.

#412 is being delivered to me on Monday

I experimented as well - I'm 5'9" and if I crouch about 3 inches, it is pretty dialed in

Thanks fellas. Nerves calmed. Lol.

Good idea, I will try that.

I will also look into that. You know how it goes with finished basements, seems rather likely.

Thanks!

I wondered that too. I also wonder if switching-type power supplies are ideal for such repetitively varying loads. In a normal computer the load is much more constant. If the HV is even on a switcher, have not seen schematics or docs to indicate one way or the other, nor have I tried to figure out where the HV comes from inside the game itself. Insights welcome!

Right there with you. #488 here.

I think I'm up to 70 games in and out of my basement since 2003 and none of those games ever caused an issue with my basement lights. Lights are on their own circuit breaker.

We had a bathroom put in down there about 5 years ago and the guy put the bathroom lights on the same line with the pump. Every time that pump goes off, the bathroom lights flicker. Super annoying. Will have it corrected next time we have something essential enough to need an electrician.

Yeah, its definitely due to the outlet you have it plugged into is on the same circuit at your lights. In a previous house, every time we flipped WOZ, the bathroom lights would flicker which was on the other side of that wall. Could have caused some seizures if someone was in the bathroom during multiball. Ends up that the bathroom lights were tied into that outlet circuit.

In this house, I made sure all of the outlets in my gaming area on on their own circuit. Unfortunately, I didn't pay that much attention during our kitchen remodel and now whenever the microwave turns on, the pendulant lights over the island dim. They tied those 2 circuits together unfortunately. At least when the microwave is revved up, I no longer piss my pants and forget who I am for a half hour or so... (I know its after Christmas, but the microwave made me think of that movie quote).

Yeah, guys, that was the problem, I had just forgotten that light will do that because I hadn't had pins plugged in along that wall in a while. In fact, I had also forgotten I used to run an extension cord for that very reason! A little embarrassing. Blame it on the new game, right? I will self-flagellate with a wet noodle forthwith.

I’m sure someone else will run into the same issue and think the same...

29AEB244-266D-4E31-81FD-CADB700CEC8F (resized).jpeg

So if you start Purge while in fl-33p dimension, only use the right flipper button. All flippers flip but the counter doesn't decrement Just avoid the right-orbit shot if another dimension is lit. In theory it should be possible to finish with all 25 flips... wonder what kind of bonus that awards?

* Blood Dome.

More points due to more flips remaining.

#435 Checking In
Invoice received and paid around noon PST!