I don't have one so I can't tell for sure, but I don't get why there isn't just a tube directly under that cone-like white piece and have two posts or hooks on the cone attached to small springs attached to the tube/pedestal below that pull the cone down to a home position where the inside of the cone it rests on top of the tube, then when it's poked from underneath, the springs pull it back down onto the tube to "home" position. Would get rid of that plastic square on the side completely and make the printed plastic it covers fully visible. You could make the tube top curved so the cone rested somewhat randomly to introduce more jiggliness in the spring above, too.

I agree with you (not a wonderful design). It's not that exciting a feature, which is why people are looking for ways to disable it (to avoid plastic breakage).

I imagine the modding community might improve on this...

Given all the other tweaks throughout this thread, I imagine Spooky has more important fish to fry (like the flipper bushings).

Can’t you just remove the metal plate on the plunger underneath? That’s also the source of the clanking sound on my game.

The two "pivot" screws, being without tension (retaining, with set clearance) is perfectly legitimate in terms of engineering, considering the materials. Nylok nuts were designed to meet a need for various applications (where the old metal crimplok nuts were inappropriate).

All that is needed is for those two bolts (floating anchors realistically) to be the guide and passive locator, without having any clamping tension to concentrate fatigue in the plastic part (it is Bad firm fixing these outboard bolts, it inhibits the ability of the part to flex across its whole surface area, promotes failure where distortion is concentrated and becomes extreme). An anchor is needed there, and there isn't really a more appropriate choice for the fixture. Not without over-complicating things anyway.

Spooky would do well to QC this during assembly, the problem would no longer exist. I set mine appropriately the first day out of the box, no problems about a thousand games now .... design seems pretty good in my view, but only if assembled correctly to avoid stress and breakage.

Two more ways that might help snapping or noise, besides a minimal amount of dry lube on the coil bracket where the flap slides and loose bolts, that could be effective:

-Trim 1/8" from the ship pin, less travel would mean even less chance again of the plastic snapping. I don't think this would make heaps of difference in terms of noise though, since most of the movement and rattle seems to come from the violence of the plunger stroke itself.

-Add a PeT-G washer between the Flappy Plate and the bell of the coil plunger. I could see this dampening alot of the flappy plate noise, against the bell.

The lubricating coil bracket, and loosening ship screws, got rid of almost all of the really annoying noises from my ship action. It's not more noticeable than the topper now really, and I haven't tried either of the two other ideas, as yet.

Certainly, the clackky noise (and the ship action) can be disabled by removing the flappy plate itself, and the game remains fully functional. Without animated ship.

I think it adds something though, just the same as the head in Frankenstein Lol

Heads up! My game has been routed and seen a fair amount of play, and is beginning to wear. It’s a non-butter. I will be removing the side rails and putting Mylar to stop it as-is, but some might wish to prevent wear at all.

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I thought that was camera flash shine initially. Yikes, that definitely calls for a mylar round or something under the see-through armor before this happens to other routed ones...

Happy new year Spooky true believers!

Drinking in the Freeek Kingdom.

So testing / trouble shooting did confirm bad transistor. Spooky worked with me all day via email to verify it was in fact the transistor. Should ship one out on Monday. Decided I wanted it running sooner so I stole #1 (unused?) and put it in #8(left flipper) Was extra careful with the iron and the solder sucker definitely helped.
Happy new year!

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Great news. Running now is better than running next week.

That guy sure does say bitch a lot

Just looked at mine, similar story...

LH
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RH

Game count of about 1000

Yeah, fortunately it kind of matches the art and blends well, for now

Yep, mine broke as well. Do you have a bit more detail on how you fixed yours? Thanks.

Is yours a butter?

Nope.

I wouldn't expect this to occur with butter.

Might be another argument for the pros to going butter.

Tech talk, sick of it!
Happy new year!

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Part 2 - Added a post rubber to the bell, made a significant difference. A bit extra material I think would have all but eliminated the bicycle bell like sound the flappy plate gets up to. Perhaps a round profile rubber would work sweet there mate

https://twipys.com/2020-twipys-ballot/
R&M seems like the logical fit for many of these categories.

Just sayin... let’s get Scott, Eric, and team spooky the recognition they deserve for this awesome game!

That is a great improvement!

Nice work.

Yes, everyone please remember to vote and keep Spooky in mind as R&M deserves a good deal of consideration.

By the way, is there anywhere to download Scott’s music from R&M? We can’t find it online like TNA is. Thanks.

Man...I haven't played a single game on those lists....

Rick and Morty is easily top choice in many of the categories.

Yea, with no shows in 2020 I had pretty limited exposure to new stuff as well. Voting off of streams is odd, but is what it is. I sure hope Rick & Morty wins some things.

I've played most of the 2020 games and Rick and Morty is easily my favorite among most categories which is saying a lot considering how good the other games are. The game is fun and addictive and puts a smile on my face every time I play it.

If you're having trouble with coils, check to make sure the wires are soldered to the coil lugs. I had two coil lugs that weren't soldered.

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Found the post about bending the rail - thanks for posting that seems to be working!

Still cant figure out the upper flipper issue.

I tested the coils and the upper flipper is working fine during the test.. however when in a game it will just stop working, or just start flipping randomly or delayed - no longer in tandem with the lower right flipper. Not sure what else to do or check.

See the post right above yours, make sure the wires are actually soldered to the flipper coil lugs and not just wrapped.

Spooky team, might want to slow the pace down a hair.

Yeah I checked that first and they are soldered on. Another pinsider suggested adjusting the switch. Here's a pic of my right flipper with the button pressed in.. so the plastic piece needs adjustment?

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Yeah, just bend that back leaf closer to the rest of the stack so it makes contact easier/quicker and stays engaged. Also, make sure the little "nub" dot at the end isn't jagged or broken off on the inside where it makes contact.

I just put up my best score. This game is so rad!

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Did terrible on Rick potion #9.

I did fondle the most balls with 11 though!

Thanks for the heads up! I checked my game and saw that it was just starting to wear on the right side. I ended up taking out two of the screws on each side rail and put some peel and stick mylar down for protection. You can't tell that its even there and the game should be well protected now. It only took about 10 minutes.

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Spooky making a running factory change and putting a thin piece of die-cut thin circular plastic under the armor there on both sides would stop this in its tracks for the approx 40-50% of machines left to run.

Wrong thread sorry.

Don’t you have the butter finish?

I have the standard decals which look great, but I do sometimes regret not splurging for the butter!

Noooo

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Just upgraded the stock lcd to an LG one and installed PinMonk fan .

Both made a huge difference and highly recommended. (Though the screen replacement is definitely a luxury).

Also put the spacer under the speaker - what a pain in the a$$ that was. As usual what seem like simple jobs turn out to be the hardest.

More than the fan? Getting the power supply in a position to work on with the Spooky machines is definitely not convenient...

Power supply was a bit of a pain but I knew what to expect since I had to take one out of TNA a while back. Just have to be slow and methodical and follow your instructions- which are excellent BTW.

What a difference though. Well worth it.

Yeah, once you get the power supply in a position to work on it, the rest isn't hard, just lots of steps. But that back connector REALLY should be a molex to allow easy removal and attaching without mistakes. Maybe on Ben's upcoming Spooky...

And yeah, people write me all the time about how they knew it would be better, but didn't know how MUCH better it was once the new fan was in. Basically from a vacuum cleaner in the next room sound to almost nothing.

Here’s some “after” photos of the LG lcd upgrade. Much crisper, cleaner and more vibrant colours, not washed out - much deeper blacks (sounds like a tv ad, but I guess that’s what they’re selling also). Unfortunately Don’t have “before” photos.

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I haven't seen it IRL, but I would assume the stock LCD is a TN panel because they're super cheap. Unfortunately, TN panels have poor color gamut/reproduction and terrible viewing angles, washing out the screen if you're only off angle a few degrees up, down, left, right. I would guess the LG panel is some flavor of IPS or a PVA panel, both of which have better color gamut and much better viewing angles. What's the model on the LG you got?

I’ll dig up the details and post here. Definitely the viewing angle is much better also.

Bit of a shame this is considered a worthwhile mod :-/ Did you fiddle with LCD panels settings before popping in the new panel? I wonder the bulk price difference between buying the OEM R&M panel vs the on you've used.

Adjusting the LCD settings of the stock panel won't help the poor viewing angle that causes a washed out look even a few degrees off angle if it is a TN (as it seems to be). That's why I'm interested in any part number markings on the stock panel to determine what kind of panel it is as well as the model of the LG to confirm it's an IPS flavor or a PVA.

Anybody else had the thrill of CLUNK lost ball in the cabinet yet?

The ball fits through there rather easily. Didn't take long to figure out what happened!

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