How difficult is the loctite to break loose if you need to change a coil stop? Those aluminum stand-offs sheer off pretty easily.

Yes, no issue tightening the stand-off bolts, and the kit also provides a small tube of lock-tight. I'm also pretty sure the design has already been extensively tested on other pins. Fan runs constantly when power is on.

That seems like a problem for future me

The color provided is blue.

Screenshot 2020-12-27 101436 (resized).png

thanks for the review arzoo. Appreciated.

I may try on my personal game once it arrives in a few weeks.

New Mode Idea?

I searched the thread and I can't believe that only one person (@titanpenguin) thought of something like what the Vindicators did? You start the mode and a drunk Rick appears on the screen and says "I'm so fucking drunk... hit three ramp shots in like...... 1 minute or something.... and make it a lesson about yourself". And you complete 2-3 random Drunk Rick events, hitting the scoop for each one you complete to move onto the next one, and then the noob noob shot to end the mode.

I wonder how many more modes are in the works, or game updates in general. I want to see this game evolve over time.

Thanks. Did you just hand tightened the stand offs or use a nut driver? I have a kit here I need to install.

I used a nut driver, but it's a tight fit between the nut and coil stop bracket. The kit also provides a small wrench, but that's a bit tricky to use on the right flipper given how it's surrounded by wires and what-not. Regardless, you definitely need to tighten with a tool (not hand tight).

I used my Milwaukee electric screwdriver during the install. With a 6” extension it made it easy to quickly install everything. Definitely need to give it a hand tight check after running up the bulk of the threads.

I'm sure that can be an issue, but another cause of airballs is having the rubber on the flipper bats positioned too low (not that you are doing this).

I had never had any airball issues to speak of. Based on the earlier discussions in this thread about the flipper bats being too high, and people placing the rubber lower on the flipper bat to compensate, I tried the same thing on mine.

Even though I did not put the rubber *that* much lower, it was enough to create massive airballs from both lower flippers. I did a test game with the glass off, and literally within the first 30 seconds of playing, a ball went flying out of the pin onto the floor. It was crazy.

I obviously put the flipper rubber back where I had it (pretty much right in the middle of the bat) and things are back to normal.

Interesting. Yeah, I actually don't have a big problem with air balls, but still think the rivets should be out of the ball path as much as possible. Not a big deal, just a quirk.

I'd like my flippers to be lower than where they are now (with my lowered, adhoc bushings), but the game is playing great, so that too isn't a big deal. I'm hopeful Spooky will nail the height in the new bushings.

All good, thanks for clarifying, was just commenting on the pic and what I could see.

Still hoping the threaded standoffs are durable enough. If they are aluminium isn't too reassuring.

It's something that happens, High Tensile socket head screws snapping off on those coil stops from fatigue and alot of stress, whatever the game or style.

I suppose the proof will be in the puddin'

The tension is handled by the 10-32 hex steel standoffs that replace the retaining black cap top screw's job of keeping the coil stops on (loctite included). So the old retaining screw's only job is to keep the fan bracket attached to the new steel standoffs. You can see a picture of the steel standoffs on the product page where all the pieces are laid out (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/04552-tibetan-breeze-spooky-pin-flipper-cooling-kit).

They're steel hex standoffs, not aluminum. Crazy expensive per piece, and one reason the Spooky kit is more expensive than the Spike one. I would not use aluminum on such a high stress/high vibration part.

I've tested the Spooky design extensively (many, MANY iterations to get to the final design). Standoffs are stainless steel and do the work of keeping the coil stop on, so there's little stress on the fan bracket, which is PETG for durability. We're ~3 months in with this design and no failures, so I'll see how it goes, but I believe the design is good for the long haul and I didn't skimp on parts, focusing on quality components that will last.

No pun intended?

I had thought about adding a thermal switch when making these, but that's more complexity and cost in a kit that's already over $100, so I nixed the idea. It's 100% do-able, but I just don't think the benefit is there for most people that will buy it.

The fans are excellent quality and rated to run about 7 years on at a 24/7/365 always-on environment. Most route locations turn off overnight, so you're likely looking at like 14 years of service in that case. It's not really an issue. Together, they only draw 4/10ths of one amp, so the power consumption isn't a consideration when the main meanwell power supply with the always-on fan Spooky uses is sucking up multiples of that as long as the machine is on, too.

It's good quality stainless steel, not the cheap stuff, hence magnetism fail.

I made a change to the instructions cover section just now to specifically call out the standoffs as stainless steel due to the mild confusion here. I want people to know the quality they're getting.

Thx for the additional info pinmonk

Very nice!!

No more concerns from the super critic here!

No problem. This kind of discussion is actually good because it lets me know where I can communicate information better in the product page or instructions. I just changed the instruction first panel so all of them from here on out will specifically state the hex standoffs are stainless steel.

Time to open the hood again, since I trimmed down the bushings and lowered the flippers I've been getting more air balls. I also put new green titan rubbers on. Not sure if its a combo of both but going to raise my right flipper a little. Morty got a little aggressive with the basketball hoop as its laying in the driveway now. Gives me a chance to do some other tweaks while I'm in there. Forced me to stop hitting start.20201228_120630 (resized).jpg

Why not wait until Spooky releases the updated brushings?

I have already trimmed down the bushings. Did this earlier. Needed to get hoop out of driveway,, its hard enough for me. Will install new bushings when we get them or save for a rebuild. Seemed like I was getting a lot of English (not sure if there is a pinball term) on the ball prior to lowering. I need all the help I can get. I did double my GC score. But have no evidence that it wasn't just luck. Still loads of fun and I don't mind a little tinkering so long as it doesn't keep the game down for to long. On a side note I love the Terry call out "welcome to my nightmare castle" wondering if there will be more Easter eggs in addition to the TNA dimension.

Turn down the flipper power. It's likely that now your flippers are making more direct contact with the ball so the higher power could be too much after your adjustments.

FYI...Luke @ Spooky told me the software setting for dialing the flipper power down/up don't do much (or anything, IIRC).

It directly adjusts the number of milliseconds the full power pulse is applied. Period. 30? that’s 30 milliseconds. 32? That’s 32 milliseconds.

Will give this a try

Mine are on 27 now, and whole game (including ramps) is like lightning! . Can also make left or right ramps from trap.

It would make sense to me that if I turned my flipper power above 30 then I might start getting alot of airballs and ramp flyaways.

It is an interesting way that the flipper control system works on this game. I like it. Some ways like the Antigravity, very player influenced.

What other games with Electronic Flippers let the player cut the power stroke before the flipper reaches an end of stroke switch?

Is this the same way TNA works? ... I'm unsure, does TNA use the EOS to cut the flipper power stroke?

I took a picture of the spacing of my flippers to the playfield.

Seems like a lot if height off the playfield.

Does this look like I will need new bushings
?
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Yes. Every game is affected. There is no fix till spooky has new ones made. You could shave yours down if needed.

So, your recommendation is to shave his bush? This thread has taken a hard turn.

ohhhhh my!

actually your last picture shows an excellent example of how the ball is hitting the lower portion of the flipper...you can see the wear there on the rubber...

Your left flipper looks like mine, where the tip is higher than the base.

My R&M has crashed a couple times during the last few days. Where do I email the error log?

Crashing over here also. I thought a new build was close?

I've had enough test results in that I'm not going to wait for more and make the 3 flipper coil cooling kits for spooky available right away. In multiple temp tests on different Rick and Morty machines, it's not uncommon to see the upper right flipper exceed 180F in long sessions >90 minutes (>170F after 60 minutes, even), which is crazy. Just got another test in with an almost 184F peak temp.

So there are now 3 and 4 flipper spooky flipper cooling kits in the pinmonk store. I will make add-on kits available shortly for anyone that bought a 2 flipper kit already and wants to upgrade to the 3 flipper setup. With all three fans connected, the kit draws 6/10ths of 1 amp, so very small power draw.

LOL. Well done fine sir. I reward you all the internet points... And should just pull the trigger on the parts of yours I have sitting in my cart

Take your time. You don't want to rush and make a potentially painful mistake.

I'm only careful while shaving. The rest of the time, I'm wreck less.

What color under cabinet lights is everybody doing? I'm thinking about green, it is next to a stranger things pin with black light under it

I don't see 3 flipper cooling kits on your store.

You have to go to the spooky fan section, and then there are options for 2, 3. And 4

I don't see the need for a third flipper cooler as it shouldn't have a shot that will need that type of upped or sustained power to make. Garage shot/spinner loop shots should be more than ok with any flipper power

Anyone else have an issue where you make it into the garage but it doesn't eject out of the scoop at the flippers and you end up with two balls in the subway? The first time if I remember correctly a ball search didn't work to eject it. Not sure if its a code thing or if the ball is skipping switches/optos? Hasn't happened to often. Just curious if there's a known cause and possible solution.

Never had this issue on R&M ... but have had it before on another game, and there was a light bulb in the subway causing the ball to randomly not eject. Should make sure there isn't something that fell into the subway.

I had an issue where entering the subway didn't cause the preloaded trough ball to immediately eject. It would travel down to the VUK and then realize 2 balls were in the trough and a ball needed to be kicked out. It was caused by a bad connection to to the subway entrance (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/178#post-6007267).

Anyone else have this happen? The ball was pretty wedged...activating the flipper didn't un-wedge the ball. Glass needed to be taken off.

Seems like the ball guide in back of the flipper is too short OR should have been installed closer to the flipper tip.

IMG_3047 (resized).jpeg

Yes some people posted this situation before. It was recommended to try and align the meeseeks target closer to the flipper tip I think (thus reducing the corner gap between target and rail)

don't yet have my game to compare unfortunately !

Thought about that, but that requires a mod to prevent these targets from moving (something I posted about recently) OR the need to constantly reposition meeseeks to help prevent this (PITA). Not a huge deal for home play, I guess, as long as it doesn't happen too often.

I like the way you think, I was the same way. The problem is since the right upper flipper is flipping in tandem with the lower flipper, it's getting hot as well. In addition to extreme heat, I have video of one just failing - it stops working at all - until it cooled a bit on the next ball because it got so hot (I don't know why as I only have the video, was it swollen from the heat? Dunno.). So that is a heretofore unknown issue to me. I didn't know they could stop working. Plus, I would think that over time 180F+ on the playfield is going to cook the wood and end up with something like magnet burn that will eventually show through to the top. So there are cosmetic concerns, too.

None of this is a problem if your sessions are 30 minutes or less because the extreme heat doesn't come into play. But if sessions are typically 60 minutes or more, definitely an issue, especially on Rick and Morty, which has the highest coil temps with long play of any machine I've tested so far.

I solved this by putting a washer under the one side (under the playfield, closer to the center of the playfield), it will slightly tilt it and prevent the issue.