I listened to the same interview and this was not an assertion as much as a comment on the depth the AS people didn't realize would go into a machine.

Good luck with your Raza Purchase. Perhaps you will even get a machine one day?

Even Jerry wouldn’t get a RAZA!

4B5D49CF-5870-4F06-B248-F61023359B88 (resized).png

Somewhere along the line of this crap year I convinced myself that I was 448. I saw it was getting really close but no email. Then I checked my invoice, and I'm 488. Woops. Close, but not close enough!

Bummer!

But at least you know you can’t have have that number be 848 or 884!

The picture of the MRS installed is from my game. It's been working perfectly. Originally when I messaged matt I wanted it for the right orbit switch but with some tweaking I got that working so instead when I got it I installed it in the loop right next to it. I'll be getting a second one to replace the right orbit switch just so I don't have to worry about adjusting it in the future.

If anyone is interested in one message Sonic and he can get you sorted.. They're kinda pricey for a switch but are worth it IMO.

Ha ha ha
And only Jerry would take game advice from Kaneda and Muller, over say..... Bowen and Eric P.
At least he hopefully made a profit from flipping a machine he didn't even like the theme of to begin with.

Did I just hear a
"Lik, lik, lik, my extra ball" callout for xtraball?
Love how when you hit the power switch it goes
"What, what, what are you........"
Keep hearing new stuff I hadn't noticed before

I know others have posted similar pics, but thought I also concur, lowering the flipper and changing the flipper angle so it's just above the calibration hole (using a toothpick) absolutely makes the left ramp shot more consistent. In my case I removed 3/32" from each bushings. I could probably have gone to 1/8" safely.

I'll also mention for anyone who's planning to swap out their bushings when Spooky provides the new ones; be aware that the three screws holding the bushing to the mounting plate have small 8mm lock nuts on the back side. I wasn't expecting this and when I removed the first screw the tiny nut fell into the rats nest (which somehow I found). The screws are threaded into the plate, so I guess the lock nuts are for extra security. Bottom line, you have to remove the plate from the playfield (8 wood screws, not all the same size) to remove the bushing.

Bonus question, guess the two pins barely visible from the two slits under the apron.

20201221_180940 (resized).jpg20201221_183930 (resized).jpg

One on right is 9 ball

Left is nip it

I didnt bother putting the tiny locknuts back on - I know why they're there, but have never used them on my older BW games and never had an issue in the past. But if you are taking the whole plate off, you may as well put them back on.

Is your left flipper in that photo "stock"?

That's correct.

That is also correct.

Seemed obvious, but I asked because my stock flippers are quite a bit off and I have no clue why. PF is level, but the left flipper sits considerably higher than my right. I know it's not the bushings. The other variables are the flipper plate and playfield thickness. Sigh.

IMG_2926 (resized).jpeg

The eagle has landed bitches!

20201221_132848 (resized).jpg

20201221_143313 (resized).jpg

20201221_152719 (resized).jpg

20201221_184313 (resized).jpg

20201221_190158 (resized).jpg

20201221_191121 (resized).jpg

Merry Christmas, Bitch!

Congrats!
Wow, they’re pumping them out

how about it... I picked up 313 on November 11th!

If they keep this up, at this rate they'll be done before spring!

Way to go Spooky!!!

Difference in flipper gap would be the obvious variance I would look at ...unless that is with both flippers not gapped and sitting directly on top of the bushings?

If that is the case, I would pull the bushings put them on a flat/level surface and look to see if the top of the bushings are level?

Doesn’t spooky close for at least a week at Christmas?? That will slow them down a bit...

Gapping doesn't impact where the flippers rest.

If there is WAY too much gap (up down travel), the crank/plunger may follow in line with the coil/sleeve (not allow the flipper shaft/bat to drop and rest on the bush face)... so holding the bat and shaft at an elevated rest position (not resting down on the bush face). This would also produce a weaker flipper that might also not really bind either.

Thanks for the response, but I have the B/W gap tool and my flippers are gapped perfectly (yet they are uneven). I'll have to take this to Spooky directly at this point...doesn't make sense to me. I thought that after fixing this problem (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874), the flippers would be in alignment. It helped, but no cigar.

I'd take the flippers out and rest your level on the bushings themselves... That will eliminate extra part and adjustment variables.

If level across the bushings then you need to investigate your flippers/adjustments.

If not level, the isuue is in the mechs (Is each bushing tigthened identically? Is each base plate flush against pf at all 4 corners?)

Looking at your pic again, I can see a bit of the flipper shaft (metal) above the right flipper (left in the pic). The bottom of the flipper plate should sit flush on the bushing, so maybe razorsedge is correct in that the plunger mech is somehow pushing the flipper shaft up? Goingincirclez had some good suggestions. I would also check that the metal plate on the bottom of both flippers is screwed tightly to the plastic. I guess it's even possible both the flippers are not manufactured identically?

Also, those digital levels can be flaky, I know with mine just tapping it and it will change a tenth of a degree or more.

Woohoo! Welcome to the club, bitch!

I've checked most of what you've mentioned...will double check.

A couple questions.

I think I'm going to have to remove the head in my driveway in order to get it in my house and upstairs. Does the shipper contact you before delivery? If it's raining i'd obviously like to put off delivery a day. How hard is it to remove the head? I've only ever had older B/W which have all be really easy, any tricks I should know?

Spooky sent me a shipping tracking number. The shipper will bring it to a regional distribution center, in my case 45 minutes from my house. The shipper will call to arrange a 8 hour (yes 8 hour) delivery window... remember, they primarily do commercial deliveries. You can delay the delivery from the wharehouse up to a week without paying storage fees I believe.

Good luck!

search for removing the head in this thread as it's been discussed, and highly discouraged.

It likely depends on the shipping company. R+L texted me to schedule delivery. I called them and set up the time, i also requested the driver call before arriving as my driveway is a mess. I only have about 1/2" to 1" clearance on the doors coming into the house so shipping blankets FTW.
The head is only connected by the hinge bolts but LOTS of wiring. If you pull the head, at least leave the protective tape in place to avoid scuffs when reattaching. There is also the topper to be careful with when dealing with the head. Good Luck! I know i was as nervous as a whore in church bringing it in.

Just spent a day lowering the flipper bushings, adjusting the right orbit, etc. No doubt that part of my problem playing this game was the sum of all the little things that needed tweaking! On my second game after the tweaks, got to Love Potion #9 for the first time about to cross 50M on Ball 2.

Unfortunately, then I bumped into this software bug:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0dGY3uThGoxh4q

Has anyone else experienced a weird loop/hang on LP#9? Watch video for details. Eric? epthegeek

Except when it does, got it.

Glad you were able to grind those bushings down, finally. Sounds like your machine is shooting better now.

Just noticed something cool. My machine's born on date is exactly 1 year after purchase date.
12/16/2019 -----> 12/16/2020

What number of pre-completed stamps did you start on?

Unless you have very small doors. The head should fit through a standard 30” door once you remove the door. Exterior doors should be even wider. You can also stand the machine on end and put the head through the door jam slide it over the couple inches and then slide the other side it....

Or.... get a sawsall and cute a hole!!

I see your point, but yeah, I'm pretty experienced/anal about my flipper gaps It is shooting *much* better...thanks for your help. That left ramp is still very steep, so the ball doesn't "fly" up, but it makes it much more comfortably now.

Haven't done the upper flipper yet. The bottom flippers were pretty time consuming. The switch on the left flipper was poorly soldered and broke loose, so I had to redo that as well. Since most of collection has modernized, haven't broken out the soldering tool in awhile. The location of the right flipper was also a PITA...had to remove the support bracket.

Fortunately, I have plenty of time to play with this...like a big puzzle. Rewarding when the game is playing optimally.

Given how much tearing down/fixing and commenting on the shooting and flipper fade etc, I'm surprised that it took this long for anyone to point out the gap issue.

I’ve seen the game on the current code sometimes will freeze about 5-6 stamps in. I don’t think your issue is related to Rick Potion.

After the last public build I leaned in to what helped reduce the freezing situation previously even more (was afraid to try it before the release in case things went wrong) and feedback from the testers is that the freezing is gone completely now.

Well, took me ~2 weeks after unboxing to realize the flipper height was foobar after hunting down another flipper build problem (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874). Flippers on my #175 never felt "right". Based on some earlier posts, I thought it was related to "bad" flipper bushings (which wasn't true apparently).

After fixing/lowering both the scoop and flippers ~1/8", it's clear the root cause of these issues is the non-standard PF width. Since many of the parts were developed for B/W pins, it's pretty important that the PF width match the B/W specs! I really love aesthetics of this PF...couldn't be better, BUT it just seems like deviating on the width is asking for problems. I really don't like having to fiddle with 3/8" screws for mechs like the scoop and flippers that need to be fastened securely. If people that are lesser skilled (or are in a rush) start doing many of the tweaks discussed in this thread, I just know someone is going to use the wrong screw and damage their beautiful PF. Also complicates building these beauties, which must be a pain at Spooky! Still love the game and I'm glad Spooky is listening to us alpha/beta testers. If my game were sold to a newbie (or someone that didn't have the time to investigate/tweak), I'd feel bad for them.

I'm almost glad that I wasn't crazy about the topper (despite it being a free bonus!) and that it didn't fit where I wound up putting the game.

I took it off, and moved the flashers inside the backbox. Now it isn't always simply statically lit up!

At some point I may add something to make use of the motor voltage.

If Eric wanted to make a setting to make them flashers optionally do more than simply flash when the portal is open, that would be beyond awesome. Low priority, I realize.

The video doesn't do it justice, as the backbox flashers are much more prominent in person.

Even though the stock apron cards are nice, I decided to upgrade to the lenticular cards (see thread on Pinside). The effect on these is awesome, and now I finally have Squanchy in my game. Highly recommended!

20201222_142814 (resized).jpg

20201222_142822 (resized).jpg

20201222_142837 (resized).jpg

20201222_142850 (resized).jpg

While i more or less agree, anyone that drops $8k on an unfamiliar hobby without the where withall to hire someone to maintain or the interest to maintain a pin themselves is a bit silly.

I have always believed, Pinball is kinetic art that humans pay money to hammer on. Kinda like giving a pane of glass (read iPad) to a 6 yr old. These things are imperfect and prone to breaking.

That said, i do agree that measurements must be considered for things like PF depth for hardware that penetrates said PF. Happy Spooky sees that and is willing to offer a proper fix.

Not sure I grok the iPad analogy...I worked for Apple for many years and iPads are incredibly reliable consumer devices (even in the hands of kids).

In any event, I agree with your opening statement, but it's a matter of degree. If I had to pay someone to find/fix the problems I've already dealt with as a new owner, the bill would be significant. I would imagine most techs charge a minimum of $50 per/hour. I've spent 10-20 hours on diagnosing/fixing problems, and if I had to pay someone $500-$1000, within the first 2 weeks of ownership, well, I wouldn't be happy.

When I purchased my first NIB game (Lord of the Rings) in 2004, within the first month, the "Gimli switch" failed. The distributor that sold it to me came to my house and installed a new/improved switch. After that brief service call (which was free), the game has played flawlessly for the next 16 years! No joke. They don't make 'um like that anymore!

That's great news! Since many people have been effected by the freezing, do you have plans for a mini update to squash the freezing bug? Seems like getting it out asap is a win/win. If it's a simple bug fix, it helps us. If it's a complex bug fix, it helps you get air time on the fix.

We'll do another public build relatively soon with just fixes; no new content. Just not quite yet.

#380 arrived yesterday.

Was expecting #386 as that was my place in line. All the options look correct - maybe just a placard mix-up??? Anyhow - if you’re the owner of #380..... enjoy #386.

Adjusted flipper angles and two orbit rails and now just the right flippers and she should be good. Going to try the flipper reed switch fix tomorrow. Having the weird right upper flipper actuation and lower right flipper ‘knock-down’ issue.

Have to imagine Spooky is coping with lots of folks not ready or last minute back outs with this crazy economy.

Happy to hear you are playing.