What can I say; I’m McGuyver

Sorry if asked before.....

But why are there two little holes in the playfield below the flippers?

Question from the Freeeek Kingdom.

Flipper alignment.

To set the flippers. I always used a small Alan key but I think there's an actual tool. Slide it in the hole, let the flipper rest on it and tighten down from underneath

Ahhhhhh. A factory jig to align the flippers?

No. Use the holes to align the flippers. Usually having the flipper pointing right at them.

That’s not how Spooky ships these games. The flippers are about 1/8” above the alignment holes.

Good to know. Thanks.

Mine was set at 29, so dropped them to 28, feel that same to me.

I see your ramps are prototypes and that you don't have the sprung steel flaps at the bottom between them and the plastic ramp. Perhaps that is why yours don't exhibit the ball launching behavior?

So most of the time my right ramp shoots like butter, but I had one wild ball launch incident this afternoon. I tend to play on the fly and so the ball velocity can be very high. I shot off the left flipper after the ball shot out of the portal and I think the ball was airborne all the way to the ramp (almost felt like a hockey wrist shot for the fellow Canadians), when it hit the ramp it launched straight into the air and landed behind the spaceship and got stuck there. No ball search or nudging could free it. Had to pull the glass after tilting trying to set it free.

Looking at my right ramp the sprung steel flap is convex-shaped instead of concave, which every other ramp flap on my other games and the left ramp on R&M also are (concave). So instead of following the contour of the PF and the ramp, it bubbles up away from the contour. I can even see the PF lights behind / under it when looking at it along the PF.

I wonder if the ball is hitting the flap with enough force to compact it and then it springs back and launches it into orbit? I'd say the flap might have been installed backwards to look like that...

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I think the ball is hitting the flap rivets and getting enough upward launch off them to clear the ramp walls. I've had a few crazy airballs off the right ramp as well. Eric's ramps don't have the rivets.

Possible. Nothing a piece of acrylic over the entrance and then again over the turn at the top wouldn't fix.

Your flaps are showing.

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Those ramps are crooked as balls

Damn you've worked all this magic from that thing? Color me even MORE impressed! Unreal.

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Looks like the screws missed the holes and are not lined up straight

I know this has probably been asked and answered but has anyone hooked up an external subwoofer and bypassed the internal speaker entirely? I've gotten most vibrations out of the cab but I'm interested just to see how it would sound only hooked up to my external.
The internal sub still runs when it's wired from the speaker to the external and I'm not sure how to only run the external alone.

Next will be to tackle my shaker which must be more like a Red Tremor as even on the lowest setting it's a jackhammer that shakes the backglass, speaker panel, etc etc. I suppose I could experiment with the weights to see if that smooths it out a bit.

The zipties under the glass does work really well! I just installed some and no more glass rattle!!!

Yesterday I had installed the subwoofer spacer on my machine that someone else posted but that didn’t really help much on my machine. But no big deal it was relatively cheap and worth the try.

I just want to add on the zip tie trick... you don’t have to cut anything on the machine to add them but definitely you need to cut the large head off the zip tie end.

I just lifted the glass channel slightly with my fingertips/nails and wedged a total of 4 zip ties in underneath the glass. 2 on each side 1 towards the top and 1 towards the bottom.

****after posting this I turned my volume up to 7 and got a little rattle again. So I just added a couple more cut zip ties (total of 6 now, 3 on each side) and sounds great again. No rattle.

You will have to remove them and re-install them anytime you remove the glass but it just takes a minute to do.

It really works great though!!!

Here are some pics;

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Ohh I thought it was a spinning fixture. That's what it looked like in that arrangement with the plastic sitting up like that.

That would be really great though... a spinning portal instead of the clear opening on the garage door.

I was thinking of printing a small picture of a portal on a translite like material and putting it there.

Or even better a holographic one like on Ghostbusters!

Would make a great mod!

Don't recall you posting but what flipper rubber are you using? Stock or other?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rick-amp-morty-pinball-mod-co-development-thread/page/8#post-5994171

Everyone has a Plumbus in their house. Now, have one in your pinball machine as well!

https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/plumbus-pop-bumper-replacement

Get yours today! Limited quantities shipping in time for the holidays!

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I'm on 26 and have no trouble making either ramp. In fact sometimes the ball is force fed down the backboard drain and flies out to the upper flipper airborne!!

Wow! 39 that's massive! lol ... you don't get any fade?

I don't know if I'd suddenly get airballs by winding the power up to ludicrous, but I'm not too keen to be trying that. Stock of 30 seemed way overpowered to me at the start, I went to 24 and worked my way up until happy, wanting to minimise coil overheating and fade.

Did the coil spec get changed at any point in production?

Mine was a little bit like that, where the ramp seemed it could be sitting lower and curving the flap (more). The edge was meeting the playfield at an angle, scraping it. Should sit flat at the leading edge and curve up to the plastic. But fitting the playfield protector made it sit real nice, both ramps a nice curve, and flatter at the start with not so much digging in. I didn't play many games before fitting that PF protector though.

Also the left ramp was scraping the interior art fairly hard when sliding out the playfield (and when in playing position) so I trimmed and adjusted that at the same time, for the good of my art blades as much as anything. It made the left ramp opening slightly wider and a little easier to hit as well. There were already other predrilled holes in the playfield, so I didn't be too fussed about relocating the ramp start to another spot. Moving the start that direction also helped with clearance from scraping on the art blades further up, less trimming that part the better. Definitely backhanded the left ramp a few times.

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If ramps are sitting too high and definately pulled down to the wood (but with the flap not curved enough/ramp still too high), some plastic could be trimmed from the underside face until they sit at the desired lower (?) height.

Cool!

Putting the zip ties in the channel would work fine too.

If you don't want to have to reinstall them everytime you move the glass, there is a channel of rubber "glass holding material" running down the length of the cabinet glued to the top, that you slide the glass through. By cutting a small notch and inserting a much smaller piece of zip tie, it causes the rubber channel to torque slightly, and firmly grip the glass. Completely removable and invisible to the eye.

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This game is so much fun!! .... even when you're playing like a Jerry! :3

Another here who just goes, screw it... on the fly baby!!

Rick and Morty kinda suits that.... half the time it forces you to anyway!

I was just chuffed to have made good use of the antigravity for a change! Lol

I boosted the flipper power up to 27. Pf pitch I measured 6.7deg.

Could probably sustain flippers 30 for long periods, but don't think my machine needs any more flipper power after 26 really, perhaps more if the pitch went steeper. I'll probably end on 28 once it goes out.

Also I have employed this bad boy to help keep that right ball fondler cooler...

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While I don't really agree with your choice of putting a plumbus on the pop bumper from a design standpoint - I have to admit, you executed it very well.

I agree, great looking mod, bang on. Just an awful place for it, imo.

How about a plumbus start button???

You could press the dingle bop to start the game. (gross)

I laughed the first time the plumbus tilt warning came up on the lcd screen and my 15 year old was playing.... he was like “eowwwwww” what the hell is that? (He doesn’t watch Rick and Morty) hilarious!

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Stock until yesterday pm, then some purple PerfectPlay silicon. Was seeing launches with both though off the right ramp.

Had another one last night, this time the ball launched off the middle of the ramp near the top, about 20% of the distance away from the corner at the top.

I think the ramp is flexing.

Well count me as a customer.

Super enjoying the pin with only 1 regret on my build sheet.

I regret not ordering the coin door with the bill acceptor. Don’t get me wrong, the one it comes with is fine, but I really wish I had the coin door so I could add the external volume control and headphone jack. While there is an option to turn swearing on or off, the voice callouts are mostly not changed, but bleeped. I don’t feel comfortable playing this thing on full blast as intended next to my 4, 6, and 9 year old playing army men on the floor. There are still plenty of mother ****ers, sh**s, and f**ks. I fully understand not everyone needs family mode, but I do with I had gotten that version of the coin door so I could play during the day when they are around.

Only issue out of box was the top countdown display was out a digit. I emailed Spooky and they had a solution in my email box within 4 minutes. I had a loose ribbon cable, no biggie and it works perfect now.

I added zip ties under the playfield glass channel and it 100% fixed my glass rattle issues for about $.05
I have not modified my machine (other than purple flipper bats), but will start having fun modding it out over the next few weeks. I really like the purple rubbers and will probably go with that look along with a few cheesy playfield characters. Who am I kidding… I love cheesey character mods and plan on going full bore with this one. I see many meeseeks in my future.

I found the inner orbit shot to be extremely reliable on my late build machine (came off the factory floor 11/30). The only shot that is unreliable on mine is the garage shot. I will be doing the wood rail mod as discussed in this thread on https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/37#post-5552517. However, now that I have figured out the right orbit largely does the same thing excepting the super jackpot, I will be going that way. I will likely be installing the “no fear” flipper button disk as I have experienced a little bit of flipper flutter. That left ramp shot is also tight, but makeable.
My score has improved drastically since figuring out how to use the magna save. It acts very differently than the Williams one as you have to carefully time your release. The megaseeds and getting to alternate dimensions is also critical to a good score. My best is 30,000,000, but scores are rapidly improving (just got it).

I really hope we get some more modes soon. It was teased that Spooky had the rights to add new modes as new seasons came out, but I have not seen anything that I didn’t see 6 months ago when I got to play pre-covid, other than Meeseeks mania (not sure if new). As it is, to fill the card from 0 you will have to repeat a mode or two.

Overall, really enjoying the game. Build quality on everything seems great so far, and am really looking forward to a few new modes (hopefully) and enjoy haw differently the game shoots. I did not get the “butter cab”, but the quality on the decals on this seem to be much better than that on many other machines brands.

Thanks Spooky, keep it coming!

We are in... loving it!

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I just had one this morning hop off the ramp and over to the lane to the right of it right at the bottom of the ramp, basically where the opto switch is at the bottom, wasn't even moving that fast. Very odd.

There must be something going on with your flaps ...

**Looking back at your pics and description, your flaps not curving up to the ramp, straight in that up direction?.... they will be acting like a trampoline.

My comment would be, from how mine were as well, if I had not have fitted the playfield protector then I would definitely have had to trim down the bottom faces of both of the ramps so that they could sit lower and then the flaps could have a bit of curve so that they could provide a smooth transition.

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Trimming the bottom face of the ramp would have the same effect as adding a playfield protector, flex the flap more.

Flap being flexed Too Much, so it buckles and sticks up, will cause other problems and still mean airballs... probably.

The bottom setup in the diagram is also Much more friendly for your clear playfield coating.

Yes, my right ramp flap resembles your diagram, it is not "sprung" properly to hug the ramp+playfield, acting more like a ramp itself (or trampoline). I'll have to remove the ramp to see what if I can do anything about it.

Thanks.

It's really hard to see the one that is doing the tilt detection

That looks perfect!

Fricken perfect and great price. Spooky does move fast to make things happen.

Awesome Scott!

Is that something that will be going on machines or do we just need to plan on ordering one? Just asking because my machine is still a number of months out.

Why plan if an airball is never gonna happen? Like I said, i've never had one. I'm sure many others haven't? maybe i'm assuming things

You are a speedy man, Mr. Danesi