(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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  • 736 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by zebpin61
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106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 20,183 posts in this topic. You are on page 168 of 404.
#8351 3 years ago
Quoted from garretswinning:

#351 paid in full today expected to ship beginning of next week for those keeping track of builds. Almost there pretty excited to play this pin again.

Just received and paid invoice for #388 today.

#8352 3 years ago

Ok I know this has been discussed before but I don't see it in the key posts... can someone tell me the total height of the topper from the top of the backbox? I glossed over this before as I was going to put it in a room with a high ceiling but now may put it somewhere else.

I do know you can drill a hole in the mount to lower the disk if needed but I'm not sure by how much... I figure maybe an inch or so (to be safe).

Thx!

#8353 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I was so happy with my 72mil score. But alas, it did not hold. My son crushed it!
[quoted image]

And I was coming here to post how excited I was about getting my best score so far, only to be humbled by your son's ridiculous score. Wow!

This score almost doubled my prior high score...but I obviously still have a long way to go. My goal is to get to the 100 mil mark.

IMG_4605 (resized).jpegIMG_4605 (resized).jpeg
#8354 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Ok I know this has been discussed before but I don't see it in the key posts... can someone tell me the total height of the topper from the top of the backbox? I glossed over this before as I was going to put it in a room with a high ceiling but now may put it somewhere else.
I do know you can drill a hole in the mount to lower the disk if needed but I'm not sure by how much... I figure maybe an inch or so (to be safe).
Thx!

I have 7' in my basement. The topper is a few inches over 7 feet. Lowering the disc doesn't help because you can't lower the Rick and Morty plastic. Luckily I do not have a ceiling in some spots.

Screenshot_20201201-122041_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201201-122041_Gallery (resized).jpg
#8355 3 years ago

Just received notification that game 371 is completed and will be shipping today or tomorrow! Shoop!

#8356 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinstym:

I have 7' in my basement. The topper is a few inches over 7 feet. Lowering the disc doesn't help because you can't lower the Rick and Morty plastic. Luckily I do not have a ceiling in some spots.[quoted image]

Well you certainly made that work didn't you?

7' is helpful but it would also matter then how high you have the back legs jacked up and most of mine are set pretty high. So it could be over 7' if yours are not as high (or less if yours are set even higher than mine).

So I'm still looking for the height of the topper itself as I can then add that to my other machines already in the questionable area and see if I have that much space on top to pull this off.

But the 7' gives me something to work with so I'll use that measurement first.

#8357 3 years ago

here.

Quoted from northerndude:

It’s about 87” tall with topper.
Pin is 75”
Topper 12”

#8358 3 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Seriously folks, how deep is the appreciation for how great playing and addicting this game is for you guys?
I find it after 5 months owning it as fantastic as the first day still and I’m as still as addicted to pressing Start.
*Even though I can’t seem to get my shooter lane perfected, even as I’ll have 30 perfect shooter lane games, the power seems to be a little volatile from press to press of launch (or Squanch in my case)

The key to me nailing down my shooter lane was that the wire form was not securely seated into the playfield (see picture) it would sometimes move up and down. So no amount of adjustment at the other end would get it consistent . I pushed it down into the playfield and glued it from the bottom. It is way more consistent now, and rejects are less than 1%
20201201_131238 (resized).jpg20201201_131238 (resized).jpg

#8359 3 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

The key to me nailing down my shooter lane was that the wire form was not securely seated into the playfully (see picture) it would sometimes move up and down. So no amount of adjustment at the other end would get it consistent . I pushed it down into the playfield and glued it from the bottom. It is way more consistent now, and rejects are less than 1%[quoted image]

Thank you, i'll follow up with that, didn't think to look at the beginning of the rail. Mine are super consistent, then it'll fail at the top 10 times in a row

#8360 3 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

The key to me nailing down my shooter lane was that the wire form was not securely seated into the playfully (see picture) it would sometimes move up and down. So no amount of adjustment at the other end would get it consistent . I pushed it down into the playfield and glued it from the bottom. It is way more consistent now, and rejects are less than 1%[quoted image]

I had the same problem and my solution was to put playfield rubbers on the bottom to keep it from rising up. I posted about it a few pages back.

#8361 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I had the same problem and my solution was to put playfield rubbers on the bottom to keep it from rising up. I posted about it a few pages back.

How much is sticking through the PF?

Enough to put a thread on it with room for a washer and nut?

#8362 3 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

The key to me nailing down my shooter lane was that the wire form was not securely seated into the playfully (see picture) it would sometimes move up and down. So no amount of adjustment at the other end would get it consistent . I pushed it down into the playfield and glued it from the bottom. It is way more consistent now, and rejects are less than 1%[quoted image]

In the spirit of constructive feedback for @spookycharlie...

The ball launch wire-form on this thing is the cheeziest POS I've ever seen on a pinball machine. The wires are bent under the playfield to secure them? Not screwed down?

The open end where the ball drops should have additional braces to give it a chance of not just flexing out of the way over time as the ball slams into it.

I have no idea who signed off on this design, but they surely didn't play more than a few games in a row to not see how inconsistent it is. $$$ on the table to the first person to offer a solid replacement.

#8363 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

How much is sticking through the PF?
Enough to put a thread on it with room for a washer and nut?

It's just bent at a 90 degree bend on the bottom to keep it from coming out completely. My guess is some of these are not being bent close enough to the playfield and are leaving too much space for it to move up/down. I posted pictures in my post.

#8364 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

It's just bent at a 90 degree bend on the bottom to keep it from coming out completely. My guess is some of these are not being bent close enough to the playfield and are leaving too much space for it to move up/down. I posted pictures in my post.

of the 2 pieces that stick through on mine, one was not bent at all. The other had maybe a loose 30 degree bend. I didn't have room to get in and bend it myself, so glue gun was easier

#8365 3 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

of the 2 pieces that stick through on mine, one was not bent at all. The other had maybe a loose 30 degree bend. I didn't have room to get in and bend it myself, so glue gun was easier

I would bend it straight, pull it out, thread it and put a nut and washer on both legs.

Bending the wire over to secure it doesnt allow for easy removal down the road.

All it does is break off the legs after a couple removals.

#8366 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I would bend it straight, pull it out, thread it and put a nut and washer on both legs.

This is genius, right here.

#8367 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

This is genius, right here.

LOL, where's my $$$ for the solution...
(my game is still in the box, otherwise Id do it and post a "how-to")

#8368 3 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

If you get a really good stack going with an adventure/good dimension/multi ball you can BLOW up a score if you're getting seeds while doing it

That's it absolutely!
My best score was 180 million and i really cannot 100% explain why and how it happend.
I can only guess how it came about.
Had a running adventure the common multiball together with the meeseeks multiball,
a lot of jackpots and super jackpots, 4x multiplier and 40 megaseeds.
And the end of the multiball i looked up to the display and saw 169.000.000.
I was shocked, because my best score was 60 million before.

Tight outlanes, 0 adventures at start, one extraball, free game is an extra ball too.

Put the score in the pinside list and was happy to see that i had 1 million more than Mike with 179 million.
What a day, - love the pin !!

#8369 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I had the same problem and my solution was to put playfield rubbers on the bottom to keep it from rising up. I posted about it a few pages back.

This absolutely works.

#8370 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

This absolutely works.

This is what I did too.

#8371 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I had the same problem and my solution was to put playfield rubbers on the bottom to keep it from rising up. I posted about it a few pages back.

How much metal rod is sticking through the bottom of the playfield? The better solution would be to add some collars to secure them. I'm assuming it's 1/8" wireform (plus about .005" of powder coat). These would probably work well: https://www.mcmaster.com/6432K73/

#8372 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

How much metal rod is sticking through the bottom of the playfield? The better solution would be to add some collars to secure them. I'm assuming it's 1/8" wireform (plus about .005" of powder coat). These would probably work well: https://www.mcmaster.com/6432K73/

There is a lot of material underneath. Probably a good 8" at least (though I'm terrible at judging lengths). Couple of those aren't a bad idea. I just went for the quick fix with what I had on hand.

#8373 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

There is a lot of material underneath. Probably a good 8" at least

So many jokes to make.

#8374 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

There is a lot of material underneath. Probably a good 8" at least (though I'm terrible at judging lengths). Couple of those aren't a bad idea. I just went for the quick fix with what I had on hand.

Quoted from guitarded:

So many jokes to make.

Everything is bigger in Texas?

Your wife went from excited to disappointed very quickly?

#8376 3 years ago
Quoted from lookyloo:

In addition to removing the speaker grill, I added this MDF spacer to my subwoofer. It helped move the cone suspension away from the cabinet cutout. Much clearer bass now.
amazon.com link »
I had to drill holes in the spacer and use longer machine screws. I also had to remove some staples in the ground wire to get it over the lip of the spacer to reattach it to the subwoofer.
I still have a small amount of rattle to ferret out. Even with three layers of felt tape, the plastic track at the top of the glass is still making noise on really low notes.

Thought I'd report in re success using the MDF spacer lookyloo linked to in his post a couple weeks ago https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-RING-10BZ-Speaker-MOUNTING-RECESSED/dp/B01DL1RQ56

Overall I thought the install went really easily. This particular spacer is about 1/2" thick so I bought four 1.75" 8/32 screws to use with it which were plenty long. The inner diameter of the ring is greater than that of the speaker which at first I thought would be a problem, but in the end actually made customizing it for the screws easier because with the spacer in place (but not the speaker) you could still see just a little of the actual screw mounting points in the bottom cabinet, making marking where to drill really easy. Once marked, it was out to the garage where I used a 7/32" bit to to drill holes just inside the inner edge of the spacer, and once fully drilled thru I just used a little leverage with the drill to open up the inner edge to make it fit right. At that point, I test fitted it which you'll see in the first of the attached pics.

At this point I took a swig of beer because I never get this lucky on the first try. I then decided I might as well use a little wood glue to fasten the MDF to the cabinet floor. Doing so would make installing the speaker and lining up the holes much easier because I wouldn't have to deal with the spacer shifting during that process. So, displaying patience I normally don't have, I clamped it and let it sit overnight.

Of course the first thing I did after installing the speaker today was play with the sub volume. Honestly I don't know why I bothered buying a shaker for this, that subwoofer is all you need. The second pic shows you the end result.

One final note. Until I removed the speaker I didn't realize that the outer ring of the speaker itself is a type of high density foam. The foam is stiffer than beer seal but still gives when you press it. I thought I'd mention it because someone more knowledgeable may be able to explain how this helps it do its job. See the third pic for a closeup and you'll understand what I mean.
Test fitting MF spacer (resized).pngTest fitting MF spacer (resized).pngfinished product (resized).pngfinished product (resized).pngfoam edge (resized).pngfoam edge (resized).png

#8377 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Did you just connect wires to the sub connectors and run directly to the external sub? I'm wondering if you did anything other than that. I'm looking to hook up an external sub as well and don't want to mess anything up. Thanks

Yes just alligator clips to the internal sub and wire directly to the external, this leaves you a little of the bass feel in the cabinet but all the sonic boom going on from the external. No damage/issues to amp or powered sub. You can of course bypass the internal sub completely if you want to hook the external directly to the amp in place of the internal, but not necessary.

10
#8378 3 years ago

Blue Crystal Mod Update

Thanks to everyone for the overwhelming support on this mod. It has been a crazy couple of weeks fulfilling/shipping all the orders. To those that missed out buying direct from me, Pinball Life will once again be distributing this mod. Honestly, it was just too time consuming to build and process/ship orders. They are back in stock at the following link. Thanks again!!!

https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-pinball-blue-crystal-scoop-mod.html

#8379 3 years ago

Fart Dimension. Are the farts real? Is there a mix of real and fake? What's the ratio?

If there are real farts, I'd like some sort of fart credit screen. Maybe play each and every fart individually and have fart owner names scroll along with them.

Thank you.

#8380 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

If that's true, WOW. Even more respect for the craftsmanship that went into the cabinet! I guess it would explain the cost as well. Don't recall who told me butter was based on RadCal-like technology. Thanks for the clarification!

If they're anything like the direct printed cabinets on the ECLEs, they're amazing. LOVE that cabinet glossy look and feel. The only downside is I've heard that they can chip at the corners (or if damaged) and if that happens, you're screwed. But I had a WoZ ECLE for 5 years or so and it was perfect the day it arrived and the day it left, no chips.

#8381 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If they're anything like the direct printed cabinets on the ECLEs, they're amazing. LOVE that cabinet glossy look and feel. The only downside is I've heard that they can chip at the corners (or if damaged) and if that happens, you're screwed. But I had a WoZ ECLE for 5 years or so and it was perfect the day it arrived and the day it left, no chips.

It's just like the ECLEs. Super nice. I blanket wrapped it when it left and it suffered no chips. I think chipping fear on butter is overblown, just be smart and careful.

#8382 3 years ago

Invoice for BSE #386 paid in full

10
#8383 3 years ago

No. 335 delivered today. Forgot how hard this mofo is, it’s been whooping my ass for a couple hours. Definitely needs a tweak or two because the garage shot is unmake-able from the upper flipper atm. Outside of that, it’s incredibly fun. Off to the key posts I go!

5F0951C3-8ED3-4279-B273-CE1342ABF56C (resized).jpeg5F0951C3-8ED3-4279-B273-CE1342ABF56C (resized).jpeg
#8384 3 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Invoice for BSE #386 paid in full

When did you receive your build sheet? Expecting my invoice soon.

#8385 3 years ago

I’m super excited. Picking up my game on Thursday. Just in time for my birthday. Thanks spooky. Wubba Luba dub dub. I’ll be posting trip updates to Facebook pinball mayhem. And as a added bonus i have Friday off too!!

16
#8386 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinstym:

Fart Dimension. Are the farts real? Is there a mix of real and fake? What's the ratio?
If there are real farts, I'd like some sort of fart credit screen. Maybe play each and every fart individually and have fart owner names scroll along with them.
Thank you.

The farts are 100% Jack Danger.

#8387 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

Funny that this is mentioned, as I experienced this exact situation for the first time just last night. The LED colors were all "stuck" in a yellow color after a restart on ball 2. Rebooting fixed it, just as you mentioned.

Yes I too have had odd LED's lock on white a couple of times. October public code. After using the game restart function a bunch of LED's were locked on, and a Tilt I think it was had two locked on white the Rick drop target and Meeseeks box LED stayed white through the blackout and into the next ball. I thought there was an LED hardware issue, but both cases power cycle corrected things and didn't seem to be repeatable (didn't happen when I tried to replicate). I couldn't fully recall circumstances, and wasn't recording.

Not sure if this is known or fixed, but I aught to have a few more go's at reproducing the condition, perhaps ... (if it is new/unknown?)

@epthegeek

#8388 3 years ago

#331 arriving today!

#8389 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The farts are 100% Jack Danger.

That's some great fart acting. I think I could do that, but then I wonder, could I fart under pressure? I'd definitely need a good spit guard.

Maybe some day when things settle down code wise, we can have our own farts inserted into the game. I'd pay $100 bucks easy to have my very own fart in there. I can see and hear it now... first fart of the dimension... hey guys, that's me.

To dream.

#8391 3 years ago

Game #371 arriving tomorrow!

#8392 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I would bend it straight, pull it out, thread it and put a nut and washer on both legs.
Bending the wire over to secure it doesnt allow for easy removal down the road.
All it does is break off the legs after a couple removals.

What about the powdercoat flaking off everywhere?.

Couldn't it have just had a TNA setup with addition of a minimalist angled striker at the end of it to direct the ball at that post trap on inner of the orbit. Would have probably been more reliable, and cheaper at the same time. Needing to bend wireforms to "re-tune" or remove them isn't really ideal, I have to say.

At the least maybe weld a couple of threads to the ends or something, rather than just bending the wireforms as the fastener.

#8393 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The farts are 100% Jack Danger.

There should definitely be a ' fuck! that wasn't a fart! ' callout.

#8394 3 years ago

Anyone have a suggestion on how to reduce the center scoop rejects? I'd say one out of three direct shots will reject. I've tried bending the scoop lower and higher. Higher made it worse. Lower maybe helped a bit. I've also tried adding a small felt pad but that made it much worse. I feel like the problem is the ball hitting the back of the scoop and then then leading metal edge. Adding washers to lower the metal below the wood would probably solve the problem, but then the wood would take a beating. Maybe a cliffy instead? This is the last thing I need to resolve to get the pin really dialed-in nicely.

#8395 3 years ago

Invoice #435 is right around the corner!!! In the meanwhile, “hey Siri, play snake jazz” - Ssss Sss Sss Sss Sss

#8396 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Anyone have a suggestion on how to reduce the center scoop rejects? I'd say one out of three direct shots will reject. I've tried bending the scoop lower and higher. Higher made it worse. Lower maybe helped a bit. I've also tried adding a small felt pad but that made it much worse. I feel like the problem is the ball hitting the back of the scoop and then then leading metal edge. Adding washers to lower the metal below the wood would probably solve the problem, but then the wood would take a beating. Maybe a cliffy instead? This is the last thing I need to resolve to get the pin really dialed-in nicely.

Search in this thread. You can add a washer to the underside of the scope bolts that will lower it slightly. It makes it easier to hit.

#8397 3 years ago
Quoted from thescottiep:

Invoice #435 is right around the corner!!! In the meanwhile, “hey Siri, play snake jazz” - Ssss Sss Sss Sss Sss

Im in the 700's, shooting/hopeing for the end of May....gives me time to figure out where to put it since Im maxed for space and have two pins in storage......

#8398 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Anyone have a suggestion on how to reduce the center scoop rejects? I'd say one out of three direct shots will reject. I've tried bending the scoop lower and higher. Higher made it worse. Lower maybe helped a bit. I've also tried adding a small felt pad but that made it much worse. I feel like the problem is the ball hitting the back of the scoop and then then leading metal edge. Adding washers to lower the metal below the wood would probably solve the problem, but then the wood would take a beating. Maybe a cliffy instead? This is the last thing I need to resolve to get the pin really dialed-in nicely.

I lowered it with washers and it totally solved the problem...didn't bend anything. The metal is totally level with the wood, which means the wood WILL NOT take a beating. It's really pretty straightforward. Before leveling the scoop, I had 6 of 10 rejects. Now it's 1 of 10.

#8399 3 years ago

So when I'm in "switch test mode", and extend the lower flippers, EOS fires (as you would expect). When I extend the upper flipper, no EOS fires. Normal?

#8400 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I lowered it with washers and it totally solved the problem...didn't bend anything. The metal is totally level with the wood, which means the wood WILL NOT take a beating. It's really pretty straightforward. Before leveling the scoop, I had 6 of 10 rejects. Now it's 1 of 10.

So you're saying the metal is even with the inner sloped edge of the playfield, no lip at all? If the pf edge is not taking a hit then I'll give this a try. Thanks.

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