Quoted from razorsedge:

The gap does make a difference but mostly with knockdowns, as far as I'm aware.
If the flipper is up and switch closed, a ball deflecting the flipper won't cause a re-energise until too late when the EOS switch activates too early.
My game was unplayable before adjusting, could barely trap, horseshoe shots would cause a held up flipper to collapse.
Fixing the EOS setting solved all this for me.

Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I appreciate you trying to help but I don't know what an EOS switch is, or where to find or whether to know if it's "engaging too soon" or what a leaf switch is. I'm basically a guy who just bought a new car but has no idea how it works or how to fix it, which is probably the difference between some owners in this thread being somewhat miffed at all the stuff they need to fix and those who understand how pins work and how to fix them. It's kinda frustrating for us newbies. Usually you're not asked to work on your engine after you purchase a $10k car, but alas, I love Spooky and wanna support them but this can get frustrating. I think some people in this thread need to be a little more patient with newbies like myself. We're not all techies. I just bought the game because I love playing pinball and loooooove Rick & Morty.

Quoted from razorsedge:

Yep, all my posts I use (replace) urethane as it exhibits the best durability by far, and plays just fine. I gave up on silicone a long time ago, it's just too weak as piss to give good value for pinball machines, especially the energetic kind like TNA or RaM.
Mostly I use Superbands, but others make good urethane rings as well, I think Cliffy uses the good stuff too.
Superband slim post sleeves fitted fine (not loose) on my TNA, and I ordered the same for RaM. On TNA they already outlasted the originals by 4 fold and still look brand new. Same for flipper rings. Chewed up post sleeves and flipper rings... that isn't a thing anymore if you go to a suitable material, well so I've found anyway.

Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I appreciate you trying to help but I don't know what an EOS switch is, or where to find or whether to know if it's "engaging too soon" or what a leaf switch is. I'm basically a guy who just bought a new car but has no idea how it works or how to fix it, which is probably the difference between some owners in this thread being somewhat miffed at all the stuff they need to fix and those who understand how pins work and how to fix them. It's kinda frustrating for us newbies. Usually you're not asked to work on your engine after you purchase a $10k car, but alas, I love Spooky and wanna support them but this can get frustrating. I think some people in this thread need to be a little more patient with newbies like myself. We're not all techies. I just bought the game because I love playing pinball and loooooove Rick & Morty.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

For anyone dealing with the sub woofer issue, here is my fix.
But first, I didn't try this however I noticed that in the Lepai/Lepy amp there are two sub outs. Spooky wired up both of those to the single sub. I am going to venture to guess this is part of the issue. I assume that is for a sub with two inputs or for two subs. I was assuming they used two sets of wires because that wire is hella small for that size sub but maybe those wires should both be going to the same single sub output. I don't want to bend over the cabinet again for a long time trying to put the old amp back in and test.
That aside, I was still very unsettled with the game needing to be on a volume of 2 and the amp turned way down to even get the sub at a manageable level. The outputs from the PC should be at a level that the amp can handle. In either case, I just ditched the stock amp and went with something different. While the Lepai/Lepy amps aren't much different in price or function I screwed with that one enough to question the viability of it.
I tried a few different options and this one seems like the best to me. It has RCA inputs so no change there. It has wire outputs (or banana plug) for the speakers, a single sub out AND it manages/handles the levels properly. Game is on a volume of like 10 or something and I can use the sub and speaker volume controls properly and the sub does not rattle at all. It was also one that I could get quickly from Amazon versus a week.
amazon.com link »
The DC plug the game has in it is a bit too large for the amp. I am using a different DC power supply, I am sure you can get converters on Amazon to change the barrel size. I have a bunch that came with a DC bench supply but they sell them individually or as a kit. Worst case, buy a $10 DC adjustable supply that comes with them (and then you have a spare).

Quoted from kermit24:

Wow lots of detail here. I appreciate the time it took you to write this up, but this should absolutely not be needed for an $8K+ pinball machine.

Quoted from kermit24:

but this should absolutely not be needed for an $8K+ pinball machine.

Quoted from snaroff:

It isn't needed. 7 days ago, I posted a really simple solution that worked great for me (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/159#post-5975793). From my perspective, the audio system provided by Spooky is first rate...it just needed to be dialed in! Replacing the amp to solve the subwoofer issue is nonsense.
My RAM audio system sounds AWESOME...have it currently set on 11...not 2! As good as PinWoofer systems, which I have in many of my games.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Except your solution is a pain to implement and doesn't resolve the fact that the current amp (at least mine) can not be used to adjust the levels on the sub anything past "just on"... it just isn't right and I'm anal enough to not live with "just isn't right". Plus it's not the sub that's causing the issue, it's the thing driving the sub to that level.

Quoted from brerspidur:

I'll say that the previously linked felt tape on the glass got rid of about 80% of my Rattle, although it did take 2 layers. The glass fits very snug now. The pinnovaters sub ring got rid of another 15%. I tweaked some of the amp settings, but they are not turned all the way down. I can listen at pretty loud volumes with great bass, and nearly any rattle

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm just sucking it up and moving past this. I don't think the fixes are going to be coming for this kind of thing so I'm just going to fix it if I am going to keep the game. Next up, redesigning the shooter coil mounting situation so I don't keep screwing up the switch when I lower the playfield, don't feel the coil through the flipper button and don't get pissed off each time I look at it.

Quoted from Fytr:

I just got my game and set it up yesterday and had the same issue. Could feel the plunger hitting the flipper switch.
[quoted image]
My solution was to lower the entire switch assembly one "hole". My right switch had 4 holes in the cabinet, and was mounted in the bottom two. But it was still too high and could hit the shooter lane plunger. So by lowering it so the top hole in the switch mounts in the very bottom/last hole, it is at the correct height to clear the plunger. I did have to very carefully drill a small pilot hole in the cabinet for the second lower screw hole and then screwed it in there. Seems to be working well there, though the overall level of resistance provided by the switches is less now because of the lever-action the longer plastic piece is given. Might need to adopt spring-loaded flipper buttons.
[quoted image]
I also replaced the plastic blade with a thicker variant that has less flex than the original.
I plan to do a larger write-up / review after I have a bit more time on the game (which is a blast!). There are certainly a couple of things I've found that are really questionable, this switch setup being one of them.

Quoted from snaroff:

Trust me, when it comes to audio, you ain't more anal than I am. My cars, my homes, and my pins have the best f-ing audio on the planet. Won't bore you with the details...don't want to get into a pissing match with you!
Pain to implement? $10 and 2 hours? That's a pain? You clearly don't know what you are talking about, sir.
As I said above, "My RAM audio system sounds AWESOME...have it currently set on 11...not 2! As good as PinWoofer systems, which I have in many of my games."

Quoted from arzoo:

I was so happy with my 72mil score. But alas, it did not hold. My son crushed it!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

Spot on there, I finally got back to it just now. As soon as I had a decent look around in the back of the cabinet I soon discovered the culprit, one single connector disconnected on the power distribution board next to the power supply. Game fired straight up. I levelled it and played a first game. Was really happy with the how everything played, interesting shots a and some nice flow around the top of the playfield. Look forward to many more games soon as I load the latest code.

Man that's literally the first thing that stood out to me the big rattle. I am going to have look at mine today as well.

Quoted from melumga:

Where's the best place in Aus to order these Superband sleeves? Thanks.

Quoted from snaroff:

Trust me, when it comes to audio, you ain't more anal than I am. My cars, my homes, and my pins have the best f-ing audio on the planet. Won't bore you with the details...don't want to get into a pissing match with you!
Pain to implement? $10 and 2 hours? That's a pain? You clearly don't know what you are talking about, sir.
As I said above, "My RAM audio system sounds AWESOME...have it currently set on 11...not 2! As good as PinWoofer systems, which I have in many of my games."

Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Awesome!! On the bass I also already had a Polk external sub and hooked it up day 1 and it’s amazing. I did play around with the internal sub first and experienced everything talked about in the threads. But if you can swing it hook up an ex sub and never look back! Enjoy watching your friends jaws drop to the bass in this audio package - ex sub $100, total enjoyment and look on your friends faces - priceless((;

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I've had that upper right switch issue going for a while and I've been trying to adjust it but I think the space back there is enough that it will always be possible for the ball to slide by the switch. I sat there recording it for a while the other night trying to figure out the exact replication for it and all I can tell is that it is simply the switch wire being pushed to the side. The video goes on for a bit but you can hear the switch test noises and notice when the switch doesn't trigger.

But then also this happened so can't wait to get these loops and switches dialed in.[quoted image]

Quoted from arzoo:

I was so happy with my 72mil score. But alas, it did not hold. My son crushed it!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Good-Times:

I plan to bypass the sub if it's not sounding mint, just putting the final touches and covering on my 18" sub build
[quoted image]

Quoted from razorsedge:

I initilly had more problems with that orbit switch there not registering orbits and spinner shots. The ball guide was way too close to the switch and any tricklng ball would roll right past it without registering.
[quoted image]
The curve got smoothed out instead of being like a pointy elbow, and the guide by the switch moved hard up against the woodrail. Also the "fork tounge" bit on the inside helps stop any tricklers missing the switch.
For that switchback I just done the suggested tweaks a few posts back of kinking the end of the loopback guide in toward the loopback switch, and adjusting switch position. Never misses now.

Quoted from Good-Times:

I plan to bypass the sub if it's not sounding mint, just putting the final touches and covering on my 18" sub build
[quoted image]

Quoted from Fytr:

I just got my game and set it up yesterday and had the same issue. Could feel the plunger hitting the flipper switch.
[quoted image]
My solution was to lower the entire switch assembly one "hole". My right switch had 4 holes in the cabinet, and was mounted in the bottom two. But it was still too high and could hit the shooter lane plunger. So by lowering it so the top hole in the switch mounts in the very bottom/last hole, it is at the correct height to clear the plunger. I did have to very carefully drill a small pilot hole in the cabinet for the second lower screw hole and then screwed it in there. Seems to be working well there, though the overall level of resistance provided by the switches is less now because of the lever-action the longer plastic piece is given. Might need to adopt spring-loaded flipper buttons.
[quoted image]
I also replaced the plastic blade with a thicker variant that has less flex than the original.
I plan to do a larger write-up / review after I have a bit more time on the game (which is a blast!). There are certainly a couple of things I've found that are really questionable, this switch setup being one of them.

Quoted from arzoo:

I was so happy with my 72mil score. But alas, it did not hold. My son crushed it!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

No point really in putting in a spacer kit if the sub just isn't blending properly with the rest of the audio, since it's actually too loud to begin with due to the difficulty of getting the settings to well blended level.

Quoted from kermit24:

Wow lots of detail here. I appreciate the time it took you to write this up, but this should absolutely not be needed for an $8K+ pinball machine.

Quoted from snaroff:

Well, the spacer helped solve my vibration issues. At the moment, RAM sounds as good as any of my PinWoofer enhanced games (and I'm a big fan of Dan's PinWoofer product...was an early adopter).
Stock Stern speakers have no spacers since the stock speakers are dirt cheap and the system is awful/underpowered. PinWoofer adds spacers since the better speakers/amp demand it. I believe this is true for RAM as well. The backbox speakers have nice spacers and sound great. It's a shame Spooky doesn't have a spacer for the sub, but it was cheap and straightforward to add. The bigger shame is Spooky did do a great job on the audio setup, but the out-of-box experience is arguably crappy. For audio aware folks, not a big deal. For newbies and folks that don't have time to fiddle, it's a darn shame!

Quoted from Good-Times:

If the spacer is helping there are two reasons for this; either it’s stopping the woofer’s surround from hitting the grill, in which case you could just remove the grill, or it’s decoupling the woofer from the cabinet, in which case a felt or EVA foam gasket will do the same.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Holy crap.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Just not big enough

Quoted from Manic:

The leg clearance and angle now look good. Is that how it came out of the box or did you double up the leg mounts or something?
.

Quoted from Fytr:

Yes, my legs were fine out of the box. I do have a set of felt mounts on just because I had them but they wouldn't be necessary.

Quoted from arzoo:

I was so happy with my 72mil score. But alas, it did not hold. My son crushed it!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Fytr:

Yes, my legs were fine out of the box. I do have a set of felt mounts on just because I had them but they wouldn't be necessary.

Quoted from Concretehardt:

It’s official... I suck at pinball!

Quoted from arzoo:

I know, right!

Quoted from kermit24:

Was this score achieved with stock settings and a tilt bob installed? How many extra balls?

Quoted from arzoo:

The pin is set stock with the exception of starting with 0 adventures (stock is 2). Tilt bob is installed, but the pin is on hard floor so slide saves are possible and I'm sure my son used the two tilt warnings on each ball. One extra ball (can you even get more than one?). PF is set to 6.7 degrees. He finished with 33 seeds and had 20 early on. Completed 9 adventures, 5 or 6 successfully.
Also, as the game progressed the left ramp was more difficult due to flipper fade. I've ordered the cooling kits, although I'm concerned that would allow my son to put up an even higher score LOL

Quoted from MikeS:

You can get a second extra ball after completing the Morty card.
I would love to hear a review of the cooling kits once you get them installed.

Quoted from snaroff:

Considering all the care Spooky takes with the metal leg protectors and blanket wrapping, it's unfortunate that something as simple as legs could be defective

Quoted from MikeS:

That was a heck of a game by your son and props doing it starting with 0 adventures (default is 4 I believe but I have mine set at 2). You can get a second extra ball after completing the Morty card.
I would love to hear a review of the cooling kits once you get them installed. The game does get harder when the flippers start fading in long games as it becomes almost impossible to backhand the right ramp and you need a near perfect shot to make the left ramp. If they work well I may end up ordering a set as well.

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Please tell me your son is at least an adult and not some snot nose 12/13 year old kid
My best game so far is around 32 million!
Are we just all Jerry’s???