Have they changed things? I know they have posted videos on how I need to tweak my guide rails and tweak my spinner and tweak this and tweak that... so when the QA process takes place, why aren't these things tested and tweaked? Why is my flipper switch hitting the coil? It's really easy to put me in my place... either they fixed these items that people have been bugging about for a while or at 300 games in they haven't. If the manufacturer's don't want to be bashed then they should make sure that games being delivered now are all such that every owner can come here and post how great the experience is, that they fixed the issues in the latest games, etc.

Spot on there, I finally got back to it just now. As soon as I had a decent look around in the back of the cabinet I soon discovered the culprit, one single connector disconnected on the power distribution board next to the power supply. Game fired straight up. I levelled it and played a first game. Was really happy with the how everything played, interesting shots a and some nice flow around the top of the playfield. Look forward to many more games soon as I load the latest code.

Man that's literally the first thing that stood out to me the big rattle. I am going to have look at mine today as well.

I ordered this earlier today. I expect it to help.

I've got a spacer on order as well. I think between that and the anti rattle tape which has already made a difference on my game, it should be vastly improved.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NN6B9R6

Just had my best game yet. Got to pick my adventure for the first time as well.

Start button is like crack.

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I'm up to a few dozen games in. Some others have played my machine more than I have, and scored alot more too. I kinda make it look awkward maybe, playing Lol... but it's fun!

I'm gonna get dialed in onto that spinner shot better, it's awesome repeating that sucker!!

Please can someone confirm that this wire it supposed to be in this pin of the connector? ... or is it a loose trimmed extra or something?

This is behind the back panel, the connector for the ship. This is the connector if removing the house/ship.

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My diverter was installed behind the ball guide, which blocked it from actually doing it's job. Explains why it wasn't working and making annoying noise (coil plunger was bound). I was able to lift it over the guide, which enables the plunger to move as you would expect. Easy fix, but getting to it was a bit of work.

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Were you happy to finally get your pin, and find out that.yes,its not gonna play new out-of-box? Justeverett can't wait to get his hands on a new pin he has to fix before he can play it, then tell everybody he can actually diagnose and fix all the bugs in his precious purchase!! AND,yes,I have one on order.my build #is 499! #500 already went down under!

Don't know "justeverett", so I'm not sure I get the point/humor. When you get your #499, you'll thank all of us who are posting problems/fixes so you can then fix YOUR "precious purchase"!

Why are you asking this? It doesn’t seem like a genuine question, and it’s almost like you are gleeful or trying to rub it in.

I am generally concerned for your health at this point. Just sell your spot so you don't get a heart attack when you have issues out of the box.

You know what??? I think your right!!!

me also.
Makes sense.

Hawk has a problem with me because I told him to f*#% off when he PMd me after I downvoted one of his post. I just try to ignore him.

Okay I think now I'm all done with adjustments to ball guides and the diverter. It's late Saturday night, fellow Mortys just left. We somehow recorded a few good games, decided at the start to film as many as I could, and then just upload the one standout. I had a second and final pull apart for refinment today. Happy with the test run we just had now, most definately. It was good this morning... but Awesome now tonight!!

So here are a few pics of how my top guides were as it came out of the box. This is first looks after removing the house for the first time, Tuesday.. .

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I was a little surprised at the way ball guides were all leaning this way and that, with uneven kinks and bumps around what I thought should be smooth curves. Also leaning back at the top of the main right orbit, fast shots will ride up that, get air... also the diverter screw head was sticking out and the ball was deflecting off of it.

Long story short, two phases of adjustments went on, pull downs. At first seemed about 90% success for my opinion, second pull down and tweak today sorted out some remaining issues, this Rick Flows Pretty Sweet now!!!

Here's the pics of the top end right before I replaced the house and ramps this afternoon, the final solu .... errr, how it ended up. :3

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Mud map of significant bits...

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Yellow circle, straighten/align top ball guide at diverter, and kinked diverter about 30 degrees at shaft to conceal screw heads, also added kink at tip. Green line tracing over dirt mark seen in original pics, where it looked like the ball would kick off the screw head. Red Circle, moved the "crest of the hill" closer to centre.

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Purple circle, low density sticky foam to prevent stucky balls there. White circle, bent the very end of the tip about 20deg (I used a 10" shifter longways, bent as close to end as possible, just the last 4-5mm Max) so that it creates that smoother transition and doesn't interfere with the portal orbit shot path. Green path, now has no screw head interfering to kick the ball away, and the begining there is straight, for that right orbit top guide I just smoothed out the corner to match the art and plastic then made sure the last 2" was straight, upright, and on course. There is also a slot in that guide tab to align correctly then with diverter/shaft. Red arrows, if you don't up the diverter power then strong orbit shots seem to sometimes push the diverter part way back and causing a clunky transition.

So tonights top video, best of the three...

When I set up I just put the rear leg bolts about 10mm more extended in height than the front. I checked out the PF incline I'm at today and got 6.3 deg centre of playfield. I upped the diverter power a fair bit, and will probably go to about 6.6 degrees tomorrow and try that out.

I was pretty happy with how it played just now anyway... so was the other Morty!!

And I'm all knackered here at the end of the day, and mildly pickled ... la la la de da ...

Hey all. I haven’t been following this thread much at all, but wanted to hop in and throw down a mini review. Big thanks to RobT for having me over on Black Friday for a day of pinball.

R&M never really interested me. Boutique game, low production, theme that doesn’t interest me (though I do enjoy the humor), and I’ve walked past it many times on location to play Sterns, GNR, and Hot Wheels instead.

That said, am I glad RobT picked up this pin. What a cool freakin game! R&M is pure fun and delight. The dimensions are such a cool feature; coupled with the adventures, music, call outs, and layout... this game makes for an addicting ‘one more game’ style pin. Cabinet, art, play field, etc...quality is all very well done. I am very impressed with what the spooky team have done. As for gameplay; rob had his game dialed in quite well, perhaps a little help from NimblePin to get it playing like that? In any case, we were hitting consecutive upper loops combo’ing it to the garage, ramp shots felt smooth and satisfying. The shots are tough but satisfying. The pop bumper slingshot is a really fun addition as well. Only a couple times did I hit the right portal loop and it not go all the way which didn’t bother me. All in all, I was really impressed with how well this game plays, both in layout and rules.

Congrats to owners and future owners. This game holds up very well on its own against most the other current games in production as well as some of the so called juggernauts.

All the pics you guys are posting of pf adjustments are awesome. Seriously helpful. It would be even more awesome if someone made a video. Showing and explaining exactly what you are adjusting and why. Showing how easy or hard it is to get to here and there. How to remove the ramps and the house. What plastic is breaking under the spaceship, and what you loosen to try to keep it from breaking.

Pics and words are great. Vids are better. The go-to-all-tweak video.

I've removed the right ramp to adjust the feed to the upper flipper, and I adjusted my lower left flipper that was wonky out of the box, but I'm waiting for detailed vids before I get crazy.

The thing I'm most impressed with is how you had no rejects from the scoop. I definitely need to fix mine today.

If you don't like what you see, you still have plenty of time to sell your spot. Won't lose a dime, probably make a couple bucks.

I had to reinstall the droptarget bank on my AIQ because the targets were pushed into the rubber and wouldn't drop. All games need tweaks. If you want true plug and play, buy a PS5.

Just kindly stfu with your negative nellie crap here plz

Is there a confirmed list of all the rubbers this game uses? I want to finally try titans, and I don't want to miss any pieces. If someone knows the full list, I would be very grateful.

OK,but before I go,lets just summarize; Spooky hit a winner with this theme! Thats where it all started, and ended! Topper has to be "tweaked"to muffle offending loud sound Backbox has to be inspected for sneaky connections that are unplugged during shipping! Sound system is excellent,however,woofer rattles the glass, and there is no fix for this just "tweek" the glass Flipper fade and overheat can't be fixed, but a aftermarket product will "help' this unfixable problem Fan in pin too loud like a jet engine, not fixable, but replaced with another aftermarket product Legs biting into cab causing damage to cab currently being "looked into" by Spooky??Ball guide problems galore, diverter switches bad,gobs of glue where there shouldn't be, wires too short or loose, washers found loose in cab bottom,then, when some of you finally get to boot up.nothing works, so you have to start all over again to see if you missed a loose connection!! Yes,some of this is common in new pins I agree, but this is getting worse not better!! It really bothers me to be so negative about something I really wanted, but its all too much for me as a causal owner to have to contend with for 9K! Have fun,B safe!! Good-bye,and yes,I hear you,and good riddence!!

Great idea. I'd love the video to come from Spooky. For example, Spooky has a YouTube video on adjusting the shooter lane. The benefit to Spooky is fewer support calls. Spooky support has been very responsive to me so far...really impressed. Casually mentioned the really rusty balls that came with the machine and they had new balls in the mail immediately (without having to ask for them).

There are so many posts about tweaking ball guides that it's hard to know if any of them apply to my game (#175). After lowering the scoop, fixing my diverter, and dialing in my audio, #175 is playing great. I looked at the ball guides while I had the ramps off (to fix the diverter) and everything looked pretty sensible, so I decided not to fiddle with anything.

I've "fixed" 3 things with #175 (diverter, scoop, audio) and the effort was far less than NIB games I've dealt with from Stern/JJP. Not saying Spooky shouldn't try and improve, but your analysis is way too negative. The love and passion that Scott, Eric, and the entire team put into this game is oozing. I realize that reading all this stuff may make you nervous...I get it. Rather than vent/worry, wait until the game arrives and make your own decision! This game will be a hot item for a LONG time. It's not just about the modern/cool theme...it's one of the rare games that fires on all cylinders. I have no doubt it's going to be highly sought after classic. The only problem is, it's one of the most difficult games I've ever owned. For some people, this will be a turnoff.

you'll should go , no trolling in an owners thread.

Wow. Angry much?

I gotta say though that he's right about the issues. These are all that are mentioned so far in this thread. However, I've been able to tweak or fix everything he listed for $0 total, just effort. I might buy the replacement fan eventually, but that's not necessary.

I've got my game dialed in perfectly right now. I just spent yesterday making the final tweaks and adjustments, and it plays super fast now. The portals are easier to hit and the number of dimensions I travel are easily double than before. I hated the work I had to put into this game out of the box, but now that I'm done I love this game immensely! I spent 3 hours on it the other day without realizing it. What fun!

What he also left out was Spooky's exceptional customer service. They are a young family company, they acknowledge the issues, and they work really hard to satisfy the customer. That's why I was a buyer before, I'm a buyer now, and I'll be a buyer later. They'll get better, not worse.

Thank you Spooky, keep doing what you do!

I also somewhat agree with this assessment.

However all of the items mentioned are really not too bad to fix.

My API Houdini was in near prototype phase when I received it. But with help from API and support from the community the game now plays like a dream!

I expect R&M the be way less work, the community has done all the work for me!

Someone should make a by the numbers from beginning to end "Rick and Morty NIB setup and tweaks" thread with some pics to help out the community.

This would be invaluable to the next 400 owners.

When you put all those in a big block of text, it sounds bad, but you're really missing what's great about the game by focusing on a few molehills.

I bought the fan, but never put it in because the original hasn't bothered me. Don't notice it. Same with the topper motor. Does it make noise. Yes. Doesn't bother me either. There is a problem with the sub the way it is shipped imo, but plenty of people here don't think it's a problem at all. Others are experimenting with cheap (>$10) fixes.

My cab got a little torn up by some bad legs. Spooky is working on this and will get some of us replacement legs, etc. and make sure that games going forward don't have bad legs. They care and they're doing their best with a problem that wasn't their fault.

I've never experienced noticeable flipper fade. If it's a problem for you though, there's a fix.

I took out a screw on the left garage shot rail. I leveled up the right rail with the upper flipper. It took all of 10 minutes and the game shoots fine.

Check the connections after shipping. Stuff comes loose. No big deal.

Is there a solution to the destruction of the post sleeves? They take a beating. Are there other, strong alternatives that actually fit?

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Oh boy, - it might look like this from outside, but trust me this pin is so special and unique, that none of the issues can break the love.
It can swing your mood sometimes, but nothing you are not familiar with from Stern & JJP experiences.

Interesting, please tell how you really feel about R&M

Mine (#175) has black posts...I hear they switched because of the wear on the translucent. I notice that the black are very loose fitting...they move really easily. Wonder of movement would cause them to wear more quickly. Were these loosely fitted? Curious.

For subwoofer breathing, can I just drill a few holes with a spatula bit through bottom of cab or is air release not that simple?

Interesting, did not realize that they made a switch to other post sleeves. But I am not surprised.

The originals (in my picture) are not loose fitting. They are the PerfectPlay "thin" post sleeves. https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-thin-stern-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html

If Spooky started using other post sleeves, and they are loose fitting like you say they are, it just confirms that there isn't a stronger alternative that actually fits. I wonder how much different the larger/loose fitting post sleeves play vs. the original thin version?

BTW, I have game #119.

No, don’t use a spade bit for that, you won’t be happy with the results. Rarely do those make a nice circular hole.
You’ll want to use a proper hole saw for that job.

Mine has the ports cut in from Spooky

Here’s mine from bottom view. (Yes I removed the speaker “grill” cover). Just a hair under 2” port holes

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I don't see any reason to cut holes in the cabinet for the sake of improving the audio. The only opening I have is in the rear/back of the cabinet...near the fan. The assertion that the cabinet is "air tight" and that's why the vibration is awful isn't what I've experienced. The 3/4" ring and adjustments to the amp is all I needed to solve the problem. Would be interesting for Spooky to explain the change to the cabinets.

Ffs, sell it and move on.

It’ll be your loss.

IMO this game is better than it looks. I think the price creep is real, meaning it was a $7K (base) but very easy to get to $8300+

And somewhat $8K+ is a lot of money but imo it’s so worth the price. I know a lot of folks *don’t* like it but if you click with it it’s so much fun. I think it’s a pin that has a few problems but more than makes up for it by the fun to play.

If you load it with all the options, it weighs in at $9500 (including shipping). I don't know how many are being shipped outside the US, but even if it's only 250, that leaves only 500 for this country. The license and the addictive play are going to make this a big hit. All the kinks will get worked out and the software will continue to evolve. Sure, it won't be universally loved, but that's to be expected.

Well I went to a fellow pinheads house to help with his dialed in and he had one of these pins . I have to say it is a awesome game !!! I think it has its little flaws but after it’s timed in I can see this game being great ! It’s funny , challenging and keeps wanting you to push start . Definitely putting this one on my list for the future

Yep, all my posts I use (replace) urethane as it exhibits the best durability by far, and plays just fine. I gave up on silicone a long time ago, it's just too weak as piss to give good value for pinball machines, especially the energetic kind like TNA or RaM.

Mostly I use Superbands, but others make good urethane rings as well, I think Cliffy uses the good stuff too.

Superband slim post sleeves fitted fine (not loose) on my TNA, and I ordered the same for RaM. On TNA they already outlasted the originals by 4 fold and still look brand new. Same for flipper rings. Chewed up post sleeves and flipper rings... that isn't a thing anymore if you go to a suitable material, well so I've found anyway.

Okay, I have never played the game and I have number 610. I own an acnc and if I compare it which one is more difficult? I have to make the decision to keep my place and the 25 percent price increase hurts. is she worth it ????

What is your total US?

aprox 13700 usa dollar

I own ACNC and R&M.

Which is more difficult? The shots on ACNC are harder/tighter, while the ball is more out of control in R&M. Each is difficult in its own way. I have the same amount of good and bad games on both pins for different reasons.

I know it's not the answer you want, sorry. Both are great games. I keep hitting the start button on each one.

I like acnc because it is difficult ... but if they are both equally difficult, do you rather get another one in line which is easier .. and would you sell jjp potc for it?

Tough decisions for sure; My assessment based on not owning either and only a couple hours of play on both (aka my opinion doesn’t mean squat ) - ACNC is harder to make shots, but easier to keep the ball in play while R&M is easier to make shots but harder to keep it in play. I prefer R&M as I love wild games like it, where ACNC seems more controlled trap & shoot style game. But, I do enjoy ACNC a lot as well.

Regarding the trade tax, I haven’t followed the other threads and know nothing, but did you not get a warning? and if you ordered the game before the tax, shouldn’t you be exempt?

Can anyone offer advice on a LED question? I notice that at times the lights will turn odd colors, however when I do the RGB test in settings every light can display in the four colors properly. What should I do to fix?

Need more info. Which lights, which colors, which modes. Video or image would be very helpful. If they work in test modes they would seem to be wired correctly.