Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020Quoted from MikeS:Typical on Rick and Morty I should say but not NIB Sterns. I got my game in June and it had over a hundred plays in the audits when I got the machine. I confirmed with a friend that received his game around the same time and his game was the same way. I just reset the audits through the menu so that the audits were accurate for me. It's not a big deal.
I didn't say it was a big deal. It was surprising. Just raising the issue for people that care about accurate audits.
Quoted from razorsedge:...... the whole game is so friken Awesome!!! :3...
... I still have a few bits I'd like to do, such as add an enclosure like the one in TNA. Some other stuff too.
....
A pic that missed the post ... #500 has balance ports already for the boom box 
Also, been having no rejects from the scoop to speak of. There is a washer visible at least one side of the scoop. It's been fine and I haven't touched it at all.
Quoted from hawkmoon:I'm also wondering why all these bugs are still there as we are already half way through the builds??? No QC???
Still concerning indeed, I know spooky indeed has good customer service but as we are soon over halfway in production i wonder why many of the same issues arise... maybe they are stressing the games out too fast from the fsctory, because corona ddlayed the schedule?
Quoted from Edenecho:Still concerning indeed, I know spooky indeed has good customer service but as we are soon over halfway in production i wonder why many of the same issues arise... maybe they are stressing the games out too fast from the fsctory, because corona ddlayed the schedule?
I unpacked #175 one week ago and I've been really pleased with the build quality overall. The game has incredibly strong "bones"...the PF and cabinet are exceptional. Tweaking shots/mechs has become part of pinball...for good or bad. Took me 1 month to "dial in" my Iron Maiden and Dialed In. I'm pretty happy with the way my RM #175 shoots out-of-the-box. Scoop rejects are currently my only annoyance.
In an ideal world, all the shots would be fully dialed in. Since this is tough to do apparently, I would simply like more guidance from the manufacturers about what tweaks they recommend (after the game is out for 6 months or so). In the old days, Stern would issue "Service Bulletins". Pinside has become the place to go for such tweaks, however there is often conflicting opinions. Would be great for the manufacturers to decide whose idea is the best and publish their opinion. For example, I want to reduce the number of scoop rejects, and would prefer to implement a Spooky approved solution.
Quoted from snaroff:I unpacked #175 one week ago and I've been really pleased with the build quality overall. The game has incredibly strong "bones"...the PF and cabinet are exceptional. Tweaking shots/mechs has become part of pinball...for good or bad. Took me 1 month to "dial in" my Iron Maiden and Dialed In. I'm pretty happy with the way my RM #175 shoots out-of-the-box. Scoop rejects are currently my only annoyance.
In an ideal world, all the shots would be fully dialed in. Since this is tough to do apparently, I would simply like more guidance from the manufacturers about what tweaks they recommend (after the game is out for 6 months or so). In the old days, Stern would issue "Service Bulletins". Pinside has become the place to go for such tweaks, however there is often conflicting opinions. Would be great for the manufacturers to decide whose idea is the best and publish their opinion. For example, I want to reduce the number of scoop rejects, and would prefer to implement a Spooky approved solution.
If you have checked. There's currently only a couple things. Early on, Spooky put out a couple videos on how to tweak a couple things, IE- the shooter lane rejects (which i'm still struggling with after 5 mos owning) and I believe the scoop. If they are sending the product out like it is currently, i'm assuming that's the way they want the production models out in the world. If you want to tweak/adjust something,, that's up to you.
I'm seeing a lot of "this shoots well out of the box". and a few "I needed to tweak this' from buyers...... Spooky has adjusted from the early games out and has done those things with a couple items on the pin already.
Quoted from snaroff:Took me 1 month to "dial in" my Iron Maiden and Dialed In.
If Dialed In needs dialing in, then what hope is there for any other game!
Quoted from PinMonk:All machines have the problem to some degree with long, continuous play, including JJP, which is next up for a kit. Why are some worse than others? I don't know yet, but part of the puzzle may have to do with the coils chosen. TNA and AC/NC both have different coils than Rick and Morty and still have mild fade reaching 143F, but Rick and Morty with a different coil used is 10 degrees higher on the right flipper with severe fade. The coil kits fix the fade problem by holding every coil I've tested to less than 110F (most are around 100F) for as long as you want to play the machine. So the problem is fixed, and as I do more testing and make more kits, I hope to find a better answer to the "why."
[quoted image]
Appreciate Vireland providing a solution for those who have their R&M with current coils having issues.
I wonder why Spooky changed SKUs on coil components? What's the advantage of the FL-22-9900 vs FL-11629?
For future builds, why not go back to previous coils if it helps minimize the issue? Seems strange not to switch if its only just $1 difference in parts versus having consumers buy $115 flipper fan mod kit.
Questions for Spooky I suppose.
Quoted from hawkmoon:I'm also wondering why all these bugs are still there as we are already half way through the builds??? No QC???
Do you just troll this thread looking for a chance to repeat any negative comment made? Do you even own the game?
Your schtick grew old a long time ago...
Quoted from snaroff:I unboxed my game 1 week ago. The audits claim I've played 411 games and my avg score was over 6M. Bizarre...neither of these numbers could possibly be true. I would estimate I've played 100 games (max) and my avg score is ~2M. I'm running the latest release.
Unfortunately, I didn't check the audits just after unboxing. Has anyone else checked their audits for accuracy? Sometimes with unfinished code, audits aren't fully implemented. As you know, some folks look at "games played" effecting resale value, so making sure the count is accurate is important.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You know whats funny I had the same problem When I got #77. I played maybe 10 games and started tweaking/adjusting the orbit rails and the 3rd flipper basically dialing-in R&M since I had a early build and played another 10-15 games.
R&M was Sitting unplayed for about a week due to work schedule when I finally got the chance to play some R&M I check the audits for shits and giggles and notice I had 273 plays in my audits I was blown away I had so many plays knowing I only played less than 50 games. I thought I was going crazy I even accused my son of playing the game while I was at work he told me he hasn’t even played any games lol. I wasn’t mad I was just confused on what was happening but now I’m glad I wasn’t going crazy 
I figured the audits had previous plays that wasn’t deleted by spooky before it was shipped.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Do you just troll this thread looking for a chance to repeat any negative comment made? Do you even own the game?
Your schtick grew old a long time ago...
I’d suggest not feeding the trolls. Before you know it they will be PMing you with their complaints
Quoted from Blackzarak:You know whats funny I had the same problem When I got #77. I played maybe 10 games and started tweaking/adjusting the orbit rails and the 3rd flipper basically dialing-in R&M since I had a early build and played another 10-15 games.
R&M was Sitting unplayed for about a week due to work schedule when I finally got the chance to play some R&M I check the audits for shits and giggles and notice I had 273 plays in my audits I was blown away I had so many plays knowing I only played less than 50 games. I thought I was going crazy I even accused my son of playing the game while I was at work he told me he hasn’t even played any games lol. I wasn’t mad I was just confused on what was happening but now I’m glad I wasn’t going crazy I figured the audits had previous plays that wasn’t deleted by spooky before it was shipped.
Damn kids... playing my pinball machines!
Ha ha, that’s too funny!
I’m sure you are like most of us, you wish the kids would play more pinball!
I will say this though, my 15 year old definitely likes RM the most out of my line up of pins. He actually said after playing it “this is the best one.”
The 12 year old still play’s Deadpool more but only because it less of an ass kicker, I think.
Folks, the range of motion on the diverter under the house doesn't seem right (movement is less than 1/4"). The top photo is the diverter extended...doesn't come close to meeting the inner/spinner ball guide. The bottom photo is the resting position. If someone has the hood up on your game, can you snap a couple photos of this mech...or, if someone has already investigated this, please point me to a post. Thanks!
IMG_2772 (resized).jpegIMG_2773 (resized).jpegQuoted from Gasoline:Appreciate Vireland providing a solution for those who have their R&M with current coils having issues.
I wonder why Spooky changed SKUs on coil components? What's the advantage of the FL-22-9900 vs FL-11629?
For future builds, why not go back to previous coils if it helps minimize the issue?
That's the kind of cool thing about this coil temp testing project that turned into these kits. It turned up and is still turning up all sorts of interesting questions. I don't have the answers to most of them yet, but I hope that as I add more data, patterns will start to emerge that help solve them. I also want to start testing coil resistance cold and then after 60 minutes of play to see what the heat does to resistance as well.
Even if Spooky went back to the FL-22-9900 which are pretty consistently 143F after 60 minutes - that's enough to cause play issues, and it likely would be in the severe category after another hour of straight play on top of that as well. So going back to the FL-11629 may help somewhat, it's not an actual solution to long-play fade.
Quoted from PinMonk:That's the kind of cool thing about this coil temp testing project that turned into these kits. It turned up and is still turning up all sorts of interesting questions. I don't have the answers to most of them yet, but I hope that as I add more data, patterns will start to emerge that help solve them. I also want to start testing coil resistance cold and then after 60 minutes of play to see what the heat does to resistance as well.
Even if Spooky went back to the FL-22-9900 which are pretty consistently 143F after 60 minutes - that's enough to cause play issues, and it likely would be in the severe category after another hour of straight play on top of that as well. So going back to the FL-11629 may help somewhat, it's not an actual solution to long-play fade.
It's the ramps! FL-11629's are the big kahunas, aren't they? More power!! 
Quoted from snaroff:Folks, the range of motion on the diverter under the house doesn't seem right (movement is less than 1/4"). The top photo is the diverter extended...doesn't come close to meeting the inner/spinner ball guide. The bottom photo is the resting position. If someone has the hood up on your game, can you snap a couple photos of this mech...or, if someone has already investigated this, please point me to a post. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Do you get full range of motion on the topside of the playfield? Here's a pic of mine for comparison. There's not a lot of travel but the divertor on the topside is able to hit both the loop rail and the backrail fully.
Quoted from Kevlar:I discovered after a few days of ownership that my divertor wasn't working at all. Turned out to be the clamp onto the shaft was loose, just needed setting and tightening. It's basically a flipper.
What was your indicator that it wasn't working? Sometimes my ball will catch there and come out with way less momentum.
Quoted from Kevlar:Every right orbit shot went to the garage.
...it's not supposed to? oh boy.
Quoted from MikeS:Do you get full range of motion on the topside of the playfield? Here's a pic of mine for comparison. There's not a lot of travel but the divertor on the topside is able to hit both the loop rail and the backrail fully.
[quoted image]
No full range of motion...doesn't come close to the loop rail. Is the photo you provided the diverter against the back rail?
Quoted from Kevlar:Nope, only when the portal gun is charged, portal is ready.
Correct, if the gun isn't charged, it should hit the orbit down, rip the spinner and fire across to the bottom right of playfield.
Quoted from snaroff:No full range of motion...doesn't come close to the loop rail. Is the photo you provided the diverter against the back rail?
Yes. The photo is of the default position against the back wall. When engaged it closes off the loop.
Quoted from MikeS:Yes. The photo is of the default position against the back wall. When engaged it closes off the loop.
Thanks...one more question. When it closes toward the loop rail, does the plunger move toward the coil or toward the stop. I assume the coil, however yours doesn't look like it has much room.
Quoted from snaroff:Thanks...one more question. When it closes toward the loop rail, does the plunger move toward the coil or toward the stop. I assume the coil, however yours doesn't look like it has much room.
Coil. It doesn't need to engage much.
Quoted from MikeS:Coil. It doesn't need to engage much.
If you look at my "engaged" photo, my plunger isn't even as high as your resting position plunger. Almost seems like something is blocking mine. When it fires, it makes a strange noise. Is your diverter noisy when it engages?
Quoted from snaroff:If you look at my "engaged" photo, my plunger isn't even as high as your resting position plunger. Almost seems like something is blocking mine. When it fires, it makes a strange noise. Is your diverter noisy when it engages?
Not at all. I would maybe try loosening the pawl and move it to a position closer to mine. Maybe it's binding?
Quoted from MikeS:Not at all. I would maybe try loosening the pawl and move it to a position closer to mine. Maybe it's binding?
OK...that's very useful information. Since yours isn't noisy and mine is, I'm sure it's binding. Seems like it's nearly impossible to dial this in without removing the house (given the mech and location). As you know, when dialing in a flipper, it's essential to actually see the flipper
Probably the same for the diverter, since seeing it in action is kind of important. Hopefully it's not too much work to remove the house.
Quoted from pinballslave:If Dialed In needs dialing in, then what hope is there for any other game!
Quoted from snaroff:No full range of motion...doesn't come close to the loop rail. Is the photo you provided the diverter against the back rail?
Mine was the same, diverter tip couldn't reach the spinner orbit guide. Left a half inch gap, not traveling there fully. I done some adjusting underside and bending topside to make those orbit shots both work right. My diverter worked, but the shot would catch no matter if for portal orbit, or right standard back thru spinner. Neither would complete smoothly before the tweaks.
Yes need to remove ramps and the house. Luckily for me I was doing that anyway to fit the protector.
Quoted from snaroff:OK...that's very useful information. Since yours isn't noisy and mine is, I'm sure it's binding. Seems like it's nearly impossible to dial this in without removing the house (given the mech and location). As you know, when dialing in a flipper, it's essential to actually see the flipper Probably the same for the diverter, since seeing it in action is kind of important. Hopefully it's not too much work to remove the house.
Removing the house isn't too bad. 2 screws on the left ramp, 3 on the right and then that clear plastic cover. Then I think its just 2 screws holding the house in place. When you have it off is a good time to look at your loop orbit and right orbit and make slight tweaks to make them smoother. I didn't make any new holes but the rails generally give you a small amount of play where the screw holes are to make them smoother.
Quoted from razorsedge:Mine was the same, diverter tip couldn't reach the spinner orbit guide. Left a half inch gap, not traveling there fully. I done some adjusting underside and bending topside to make those orbit shots both work right. My diverter worked, but the shot would catch no matter if for portal orbit, or right standard back thru spinner. Neither would complete smoothly before the tweaks.
Yes need to remove ramps and the house. Luckily for me I was doing that anyway to fit the protector.
Sigh. Thanks for chiming in. I had a feeling both the ramps and house would need to come off to fix this. Bummer.
Quoted from MikeS:Removing the house isn't too bad. 2 screws on the left ramp, 3 on the right and then that clear plastic cover. Then I think its just 2 screws holding the house in place. When you have it off is a good time to look at your loop orbit and right orbit and make slight tweaks to make them smoother. I didn't make any new holes but the rails generally give you a small amount of play where the screw holes are to make them smoother.
OK. Doesn't sound too bad. Did you leave the ramps/house connected?
Quoted from snaroff:Sigh. Thanks for chiming in. I had a feeling both the ramps and house would need to come off to fix this. Bummer.
OK. Doesn't sound too bad. Did you leave the ramps/house connected?
Its been a while but I think I did leave them connected. The house may come completely out but I don't remember for sure. Pretty sure the ramps just have a single connector underneath if you do want them completely out of the way.
Quoted from hawkmoon:I'm also wondering why all these bugs are still there as we are already half way through the builds??? No QC???
I was somewhat floored that I had to adjust the garage shot on #297. Still need to do the scoop adjust. Had to cut my flipper switch. Cash box rail is not screwed in all the way and for some smart reason they used square heads so I gotta dig one of those out. Sub is stupid loud and even with game volume down to 2 (1 has no sound... I would think that would be zero, but what do I know) and the knobs on the amp fully adjusted it's still annoying. I don't think too much has changed in production from #1.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I was somewhat floored that I had to adjust the garage shot on #297. Still need to do the scoop adjust. Had to cut my flipper switch. Cash box rail is not screwed in all the way and for some smart reason they used square heads so I gotta dig one of those out. Sub is stupid loud and even with game volume down to 2 (1 has no sound... I would think that would be zero, but what do I know) and the knobs on the amp fully adjusted it's still annoying. I don't think too much has changed in production from #1.
I am really looking forward to getting my RnM, but this is also important points to note:
Dont they have a quality control checklist, going through stuff especially the issues which are often mentioned? It seems lackluster no to do this, and it would also be easy to add these things to the list of issues to check before giving it a go for shipping.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I was somewhat floored that I had to adjust the garage shot on #297. Still need to do the scoop adjust. Had to cut my flipper switch. Cash box rail is not screwed in all the way and for some smart reason they used square heads so I gotta dig one of those out. Sub is stupid loud and even with game volume down to 2 (1 has no sound... I would think that would be zero, but what do I know) and the knobs on the amp fully adjusted it's still annoying. I don't think too much has changed in production from #1.
Wow.... is all I can say to your post.
All the stuff spooky has posted on this thread and their efforts to address issues/concerns... pretty harsh to say nothing has changed since #1 was produced.
Now I know why other manufacturers stay out of the threads
Spooky just got Cronenberged...
Quoted from ArcadeBar:Mine had this message when I first received it from being shipped. Ended up being a cable pulled in the back right bottom corner of the cabinet, I guess from the harness stretching a tad tight to the head after backbox was lowered for shipping. I had looked over the entire pin and couldn’t find anything loose/wrong but upon looking again I found this one little guy unplugged and hiding from me down in there. Hope you locate it!
Great tip thanks for that. In tiredness and it being night I could easy have missed that kind of thing too
"Morty you rocked this like Jessica gave you the keys to the kingdom" literally laughed out loud. I love this game! Thanks team Spooky and Justin.
I love the pin but to have to adjust both side rails and drill new holes in the pin 236 is not good. Plus I am not very handy with DIY fixes that I'm afraid that I'll mess something up and break somethin while doing these fixes. My right side rail was a good 1/8 inch higher from the flipper so the ball was in the air as it passed the flipper.
Quoted from rotordave:Send it my way when you get bored with it, Robby T!
rd
I will keep you in mind RD! Hope your friend is still enjoying the TnA!
Quoted from mariobeans:Anyone have a link for the pinball monk spooky coil coolers? can't seem to find them on pinballmonk.com
Not on PinMonk site, they are in his pinside shop here though
Quoted from mariobeans:Anyone have a link for the pinball monk spooky coil coolers? can't seem to find them on pinballmonk.com
Its in the pinside shop under biz, think it might be "pinball monk"
Quoted from Pinstym:Hopefully removed in an upcoming update... "2 adventures left, we can do this!" along with other call outs like that after ball 3 drains.
I’ve thought this quote would suit well when you drain your last ball during adventure 9 (from S4 E5, Rattlestar Ricklactica)...
Morty: Aw man, I wanted to go to boob world
Rick: Well now we can't because you F-ed up. Gotta learn a lessen.
Quoted from adamross:Anyone selling a kit to fix the sub rattle? It's killing the enjoyment of the game for me and I've already applied anti-rattle tape to no success.
You could try this?
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/rick-morty/products/spooky-speaker-spacer-kit
Quoted from Edenecho:I am really looking forward to getting my RnM, but this is also important points to note:
Dont they have a quality control checklist, going through stuff especially the issues which are often mentioned? It seems lackluster no to do this, and it would also be easy to add these things to the list of issues to check before giving it a go for shipping.
C'mon man, checklists are for Jerrys!
:3
...
All of these items were done, but that isn't the point. Maybe More checklists is a good plan? ... and also then filling them in. Not ticking at all is like the opposite of the classic "tick and flick".
@SpookyLuke, you really need one that says "Gap Switches" , and another saying "Ship Bolts Loose", and some others. Then both (all) get "Check!". 
Before I played too many games I loosened the 2 outboard ship bracket bolts (pics posted earlier) so they had at least 1/16" free slop. This game also still has the original ship bracket without reliefs. Several hundred games later, no cracks or anything, and it becomes Much easier (less load) on that flappy coil bracket below that squeaks, too. cooked71 , I used a little silicone spray (into a cap then brush sparingly) to get rid of the last remaining squeaks in that, now it's pretty sweet!
Keep up the good work!
Quoted from adamross:Anyone selling a kit to fix the sub rattle? It's killing the enjoyment of the game for me and I've already applied anti-rattle tape to no success.
Unhook the sub and connect external. No fix worked for me except that and it's great
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/163?hl=adamross and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Jupiter, FL
Litvinov
Newport