Only if you want them to call you a dick.

Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

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In this forum it's Jerry, Jerry!
Only if you want them to call you a Jerry.

...but ya gotta admit: a "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas" pin would be DOPE! DOPE! DOPE!

...insta-buy for me and somebody else here...

I've made that ( deflection ) shot too and actually messaged Eric saying he should code something in for when that happens, a sort of ' NO FUCKING WAY! ' callout or similar. I guess it would be impossible to know if it came off the upper flipper or the lower flipper though so that rules that out

Where are we at on deliveries and invoices and payments I haven’t seen many updates on this lately?

Jerry Edition 231 is scheduled to be delivered Thursday 11/5, 12pm-6pm......loooosssssssssseerrrrrrrr

Fuck I hope this thing plays unreal and perfect for ya!

Nice glad to see you’re getting it.

Seems like weekly the numbers were flying now it’s gone quiet again.

#279 is ready for pickup

Spooky Luke said they were putting the 320s on the line about a week ago.

I got number 313 (paid for it last Friday) so I called on Monday to see when I can go pick it up (I probably called to quickly) They told me to call back in a week because it’s still on the line. I think once you pay it still takes them another week or two for it to be done.

***i’m not complaining, just an update where I’m at.

Recently Pinnovators spent a lot of time hunting down the rattles and vibrations in our R&M last month. We learned a lot!

There are a few contributors to the multitude of rattles so we went after the really big ones first. Here are our top two issues and solutions.

- Glass Rattle: Solution: Anti-rattle tape on the glass. Ok we all knew that was #1. We are in the process of testing out our own tape solution but for now you must have some sort of anti-rattle tape applied to your glass.

- Cabinet Speaker Excursion: (This is the big one!) The speaker surround hits the speaker grill and / or the cabinet hole edge! This is what gives you that nasty rattle/distortion on the really low frequencies like when your ball is over. We identified a high-quality spacer that is very easy to install under your speaker (no it's not made from MDF). We even tracked down the correct longer screws to go with the spacer.
Once we had the spacer installed, we had to turn down the sub-amp a bit because the speaker moved a lot more (but now without hitting the grill!)

Pinnovators put together a low cost upgrade kit ($30+shipping) where you get everything you need to squash this major rattle. You still need to have your own anti-rattle tape but we hope to have our tape version for sale later this weekend)

Here is the link to our new kit.

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/rick-morty/products/spooky-speaker-spacer-kit

If for some reason you are not satisfied with the solution we will take returns.
So far our machine is a LOT better sounding than when it came into our house.
Feel free to check out the installation manual on the product page to see how easy it is to install. This kit also works with ACNC. TNA uses the same speaker but we don't have one so we are not sure if that has an issue.

One last plug! Here is a link to our R&M headphone kit in action! Plug in your headphones on your computer/phone and hear just how great your R&M should sound! Each kit also has a subwoofer output too.

Thanks,
Mark

Wouldn't a 3 switch sequence (orbit/loopback, right flip, left ramp) within a tight time window be able to pick that up?

Yeah you may be right, a bit tight...

Funny ... this was the first thing I was going to do with my sub box project. Lift up the speaker and add a separation layer between the speaker and the cabinet bottom. Isolates the speaker vibrations from the cabinet more.

Nice one.

rd

Only if you want them to call you a jerry. Correct!
It was all tee'd up, and I swung and missed.

Still, might look bad if you were to send Spooky
" better " parts, and said install them.

Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

Fixed it for you.

Ancient Canadian secret.

for those still counting….. 288 should ship today!!! : )

(edit for typo)

Anyone hear if a code update is coming?

How long do you have to pay the invoice from Spooky once it's issued?

Seem Eric releases a beta every couple of weeks, why not try the betas to keep the fun going.....

probably until it`s built. But they wont ship it out, unless its part of a group that it needs to go in

Greetings,

In our view the best / most common tape is UHWM (Ultra High Molecular Weight) which has an acrylic adhesive backing and extremely low coeffieient of friction (CoF). It sticks to the glass very well, and is slippery enough to allow the glass to slide in and out of the channel easily. It's 0.030" (30 mil) in thickness, and cut to 0.25" x 43" strips. Its a bit hard to find in low quantities so we offer it as part of our system. We also sell it stand alone, but recommend that if you only a single application of tape you get it through Tekman on PinSide. Here's our offering:

https://pinwoofer.com/playfield-glass-shake-reduction-tape/

Next, the speaker grille is an obvious source of rattle and we advise our customers to simply remove it. Note that a grille will still rattle even with a spacer. (We're confused how you can claim this is a solution only to also say on your website that the volume needs to be decreased???)

Finally, a spacer ring is vital which is why we have always offered it with the PinWoofer system. The image on your website is not very clear - is that gasket made of foam? Regardless, we do not recommend using a foam gasket or something compressive. MDF or plywood is in our view the best material to use because it is rigid and does not allow the speaker basket to deform during bass hits and will not degrade over time.

Thanks

Fight, fight, fight, fight!!

No no - just engaging! lol

Just an update on Spooky pin flipper coil temp testing with some temps and fade results. I only have a few more beta tests to finish and these will be ready to go. I had to make a custom bracket for Spooky pins since the Spike configuration wouldn't work, and that took extra testing to make sure it was effective. The cooling kit solves the Spooky pin fade problems in all cases.

(These are all at least 60 minutes of continuous play)

Moderate fade with temps in the low-mid 140s:
TNA, Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle

Severe fade with temps in the low-mid 150s (on the right flipper):
Rick and Morty

Still to be tested: Rob Zombie, America's Most Haunted

You need a kit for WOZ and TH.

Those longer playing games can really benefit from a coil cooler.

How long until we have the "silent fan" mod for the "Spooky flipper coil cooler" mod??

The coil cooling fans are the same ones I use in the Spike power supplies. Two of them together add up to less than 17dB. Super quiet.

Making a JJP machine kit is literally the next thing on my list as soon as GnR gets here. I estimate the Spooky kits will be ready in about two weeks.

I don' t know the history here. Is coil heat an issue on Spooky games? Asking because I have never had such a worry or concern on any other games. And if so, is it not something that can be resolved with different coils?

Rick and Morty seems to be worse than the other spooky ones tested so far (on the right flipper, mainly as it gets a workout). Although of all the machines tested so far, Stranger Things is the champ with temps that maxed out my gauge at over 157 degrees (so I don't know how high STh goes).

But in general, with coils you're fighting the laws of thermodynamics. Energy is converted to action and heat, and if there's not enough time between pulses to let the heat dissipate, the heat continues building, which increases electrical resistance of the coil windings, which increases heat, in a loop. Unlike the other coils in the game, the flippers are firing all the time with few pauses of more than a few seconds, so they just build up heat, which affects their performance over time. Some games are better at building pauses into the action that gives the coils time to cool for short bursts. The fans just help continuously dissipate the heat to prevent heat buildup and in turn, electrical resistance. All of that said, if your playing time is 30 minutes or less, you don't have to worry about fade. It only happens over time, but once it starts, it only gets worse unless you let the machine rest (allowing time for the heat of the coils dissipate).

Here's a really easy explanation of electrical resistance:
https://nationalmaglab.org/education/magnet-academy/watch-play/interactive/heat-resistance

I definitely notice flipper fade on the lower right.

I've been working with Spooky to figure out why I could not make the left ramp shot, and based on a suggestion by AJ, I increased the flipper shaft gap to about 1/8" vertical play. Mine was much tighter than that, and although it did not feel like it was binding, it must have been rubbing enough to decrease the flipper strength. With the larger gap and the coil set to 40, there's more than enough strength to make the left ramp even after prolonged game play. So problem solved! Thanks to Luke and AJ - great tech support!

Getting this message on screen, anyone know how to fix?

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#331 should be coming home soon. I was just invoiced.

Checked every plug and cord on game, still dl same message as above. Checked some pics of boards in the topic gallery and I am wondering if the game is missing the one circled in pic? If so, it is nowhere in my machine. Any info appreciated:

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It is Stuck on this screen now. Fresh out of box. Playfield lights up, every now and then it will boot to “Hardware Connection Failed” screen.

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Email Spooky directly.

Try this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/143#post-5940350

Thanks for that, did, no luck.

Found my TNA had the same issue. I fixed it with high density foam tape;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/147#post-5945367

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Ok update, found missing cord, up and running but topper not functioning.

Cool!
Can you tell me if there is enough room to add a 1/2 speaker spacer and fit the speaker box over the speaker?
Would you mind posting a few pictures of how the speaker box is made? Maybe a few measurements!
Be careful with the foam tape. The weight of the speaker may eventually squash the foam.
How is your sound now?
Thanks for posting this!
Mark

Are the beta releases on the website? Or is there an email list?

Eric had to limit the betas because of some issues. I’d guess he’s still testing with reliable beta testers, but there nothing public because of the issues that came up about a month ago.

Same problem I had. Lift the playfield there is a quick connect that got unplugged. follow the cable from the PNY hard drive on the right side in the back box. You will see a connector loose and hanging under the playfield. just reconnect it and it will read the hard drive. Just make sure the colors match up when plugging in yellow goes to yellow black goes to black and so on.

I had an issue with the ball launch wireform sticking up too much and causing the ball to bounce around and lose momentum. It looks like maybe the wireform wasn't bent close enough to the underside of the playfield which allowed it to work it's way up over time. I'd pushed it down a few times already but it kept happening.

Finally decided to put in the fix I'd been thinking about. Put a thick post rubber on each one and pushed the rubber all the way up to the playfield so it should hold it down hopefully. Been working so far but it hasn't even been a full day yet.

I didn't bother to contact spooky as even if they sent me a new wireform I'm not sure I could bend it right if at all.

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Pictures?

Anybody have the list of rubbers this takes.. ordered a bunch of titans off the database and I am definitely short...