You're completely missing the point, though; the speakers are great, the bass levels are great, the music is great...the problem is the rattle caused by those. If I put in aftermarket speakers and it rattles, that's my own problem to deal with because it's an aftermarket mod and is not what the game/cabinet was designed around (the tolerances are different). If I buy something and don't modify it, it should work as designed and as intended. I have a very hard time thinking Scott wanted everyone to tune out the bass of his music, especially considering how integral bass is to his music. I also have a hard time believing the machine was intended to sound like a car belonging to a high school kid in the 90's with bass rattling every loose bolt on the car. It's not about audiophile grade shit, it's about it coming from the factory sounding like an overpowered aftermarket system in something that was never designed for that. Why does my TNA not sound like that, even though it has the same type of bass heavy soundtrack by the same person and similar speakers? A ported sub box. Spooky stopped putting those in on ACNC and R&M and I'm saying that that was a mistake that we the consumers now have to deal with. I don't want to live with shitty sound, so I'm forced to find a solution to a problem they had already solved on TNA and chose to remove most likely due to BOM.

Cabinet should have more holes to allow the air to leave the inside of the cabinet. The air inside the cabinet is creating a wave and rattling the hell out of the the glass. I can feel the air trying to escape from the flipper holes. It's practically air tight so the air creates a wave/vibration.

And no matter what you post on pinside you will be told you're absolutely wrong within an hour.

Can you tell us how to turn down the knob again? We don't get it.

Post # 5873
Key post

So, I have just discovered something which may explain why some of you don't find this to be as big of a deal as others. northerndude has confirmed that the bottom of his cab does indeed have two port holes beside the sub and mine does not. His build number is 84 and mine is 273. Mine is butter cab and I don't think his is. This tells me that the company plans changed regarding the sub box, and that it was originally meant to be there (or that they had a ton of leftover cabinets from other games that did have port holes). Either way, it's weird that my game is missing something that his game has.

5873

Mine is #89 and has the two port holes. I had to turn down the bass, but since adding anti rattle tape it hasn't been an issue and sounds great!

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So to me that would suggest those port holes have helped, but definitely haven't totally solved the problem, so it's not just a matter of "put more holes in the cabinet"

The glass channel is just too loose. Even the crappy Stern speaker would get glass vibration if you turned AIQ up enough (that game has lots of low end). Wrapping the edges of the glass in tape takes up the space and stops the rattle.

Interesting. 212 for reference.

212 (resized).jpg

Regular cab or butter cab?

Regular.

Well at least that rules out butter cabs being completely different. It seems the early machines had port holes?

Must say I think your on to something here. Good catch!

n/m

Here is a Slow motion video of the mini loop switch not registering, for those curious of the physics at play.

Unhook the internal sub and hook up external. Problem solved. I did this literally day one of owning and never looked back.

It is crazy to me that spooky hasn't figured this out b/c the shake is so extreme on this game!

Not really airtight at all... there is a big mesh in the posterior portion of the cab - though your point is still correct.

I think someone posted the make of the sub (grs 10sw-4, they sell it at PE) it is simple enough to look up the sub and build an enclosure based on the Thiele/Small parameters.

https://speakerboxlite.com/subwoofer-box-calculator/

This site is helpful to provide optimal values in creating an enclosure. If I get downtime I may do it - problem will be fitting it with the shaker in there based on material thickness used, should be doable though.

Sorry, my cheap oppo doesn't have the best slow mo

Saw this box was discussed on the parts express product page for the subwoofer Spooky uses:
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-tr10f-10-single-truck-box-speaker-cabinet--260-636

Granted, even tho it is relatively low profile, I would bet the shaker motor will be in the way if you keep things as-is.

Shame because the price is certainly right.

Video from the Future!

Ha ha, yea, it's 5.30pm on Tuesday arvo here, knocking off work for the day, bout to pour a cold one

I've been working with Luke now. I was wrong about the hold voltage measured at the coil (had the meter set to VAC doh!), so that's not the issue. Voltage at the PSU was 49.6v and he suggested bumping that to 50.5v. I also lowered my pitch to 6.6 (from 6.8), and adjusted the flipper position a bit lower (I can still just barely make the right ramp with a back-flip). With all those changes I was able to make the left ramp for the first few games, but then the flipper weakens and the left ramp shot becomes impossible. I'll continue to work with Luke today, he's thinking maybe a defective flipper bushing or possibly the flipper has to much or to little vertical slop. I'll report back later.

Don't have R&M yet but my ACNC is missing the port holes in the bottom of the cab as well. TNA with sub box has ports. I've considered cutting holes and building a box around sub myself

I do agree that Spooky needs to just turn it down before shipping games. Look at how it brings out the whiny compainers. It just baffles me that so many people see EQ settings as a design flaw. It's laughable. I adjusted mine day one and there is still a ton of bass and the overall sound is so much better than what any other manufacturer ships (with the exception of maybe the new GNR system...I have only played a couple games so I can't judge that one yet). Speaker Gate 2020!

There have been a couple posts about switches not registering or the one in the inner loop needing to be angled differently to accommodate the ball. Any chance these magnetic switches that someone used in RZ would solve either of these issues?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rob-zombies-spook-show-international/page/214#post-5913329

I have a GNR LE and the bass department is definitely lacking. It’s loud and sounds great but not enough bass and I also don’t think there’s an adjustment for the bass either, unfortunately. I’ve looked for it, but maybe I’m wrong?

I need to attach a sub woofer for sure.

No one is saying it is a design flaw. You have to turn it all the way down and then literally a hair up without it rattling the whole game! Just not a lot of range of control. I really want to pump up the bass more so maybe I need to just buy an external sub.

I thought someone verbatim called it a design flaw earlier, but I could be wrong. It just seems like such a dumb discussion to me. There are plenty of options to get the sound each person wants and people just complain about the rattling non-stop. It just gets old.

Is it a design flaw when Stern uses "woofers" that don't even have a surround for the cone, just paper all the way to the metal frame?

There is nothing wrong with Spooky's hardware. If you don't like the tone settings out of the box, turn the knobs.

At the risk of changing topics and posting something positive.........I'm the second owner of a BSE and the previous owner did most of the recommended tweaks. When I got it home having not read any of this forum I set the play field at 6 degrees in deference to that left ramp. The game shot clunky AF but was still sooooo much fun. A few days ago I started reading this forum more and saw that Spooky recommended a 6.5 degree inclination. I changed it and suddenly the game shoots MUCH better. As in on my 4th game with the new inclination my first ball beat my old high score.

Just another data point that play field inclination seems to be VERY important on this table. Man, what a fun game..............

Remember also you don't need a ported sub. A sealed sub will also work well.
The "problem" is in the low range that shakes everything so if you want the bass extra loud without shaking go external or isolate it from the cabinet of the machine.
(Snarky response) ask spooky to put in a smaller inferior bass driver because you don't like how far to one side the knob is.
Just some ideas while I patiently wait for my machine to get here.

Want a cool dual function table/bass check out the svs pc2000 I can confirm this thing will make your house windows shake.

Edit- I used this method for in ceiling speakers and lights when building my home theater if you want to give it a try
https://soundproofguide.com/diy-soundproofing-in-wall-in-ceiling-speakers/

I adjusted the switch to be more sensitive, which helped but I was still getting unregistered shots. So I bent the end bit of the guide towards the switch and that has fixed it.

20201019_215806 (resized).jpg

To me the problem was venting. My cabinet did not have sub ports on the bottom. It had one air vent on the back, and I believe it was insufficient for the airflow the sub was generating. When you can feel the air being pushed around the flipper buttons, it tells me there is too much pressure going on in there.

It's not air pressure, It's Blim Blam trying to escape.

BLIM BLAM (resized).jpg

I wonder why they routed that switch hole so close to the inside rather than in the middle, angled? If they don't have all their playfields made yet, they can make a running change and fix this pretty easily with just an adjustment to the switch hole placement/angle.

I'm back in the club! Pinball Karma comes back around! 7 months ago I sold my Rick and Morty for cost to a pin buddy when I thought I was losing my job due to COVID. I kept my job. Earlier today when talking pinball he mentioned he was full up on pinball machines with a GNR on the way for his last spot and did I want my spot back. Hell to the yes! So I am back in on #373 R&M. Just gotta pay later in the week when I see him and call Spooky. Super excited. I got a TNA in the interim (not the same) but love Danesi's game and love the music. Been following the cartoon and it's great. Really looking forward to making this my first NIB.

What number are the up to on the line?

HEY EVERYONE - if you haven't pre-bought or don't have your quiet fan kit by now, you're nuts

#91 here, - no port holes.
But i was damn close

Port holes are for ships!
You son's of bitches!
I voted!
My civic duty and my right's of citizenship have once more been excersised, and upheld.

Now it's time to play R&M, spin records, and Booze into the night.

Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

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the-bad-news-bears (resized).jpg

Can someone help me out.

I’m having a super hard time with the garage shot and inner orbit. I played on location and wasn’t as hard as my own machine.

I tried to toe out the flipper but that made it worse.

I have a slow motion photo but don’t know how to post on here. But here are still images.
E9745E36-414A-4A7A-9480-964F1CC30EAD (resized).png
99CD305C-7480-4E7C-9046-F9429ABB9479 (resized).jpegE57EA78F-8015-4930-A81A-CD06349BFED1 (resized).png4EDD59F8-4DDB-4666-AAF3-5B0B4893D695 (resized).png

Your results may vary, but one of the first things I did to our game, was adjust the rail that feeds the upper flipper, it made my shots much more consistent. It's been covered by others much better then I can explain but basically, remove the right ramp (3 screws) remove meseeks plastics, loosen the last two screws holding the rail, and align the rail the best you can. Mine slid in quite close with the slotted tabs. Others take it a little further, but that worked well for me. 15min job, about 7 or 8 screws to undo,

#74 here. Ours has the holes.

I made what I though was the impossible shot - upper flipper to the left ramp. The ball must have deflected just perfectly off the pin on the left side of the ramp entrance and had enough power to make it to the top. Total luck, and I was totally surprised!

I've 85% done this a few times, but wont finish the trip

Infuckingpossible! On my machine!
I wanna see video evidence.
Wow.
Congrats on making that shot.

Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

Ha ha ha, yea, I've only gotten 85% there, I know I'm gonna get it one day.
Who needs a ramp shaped like a slipper then....... Looking at you avengers

All Rick & Morty owners are now checking the undercarriage of their machine.

I'm too tall, see pic, I'll let a short person check it.
Port holes sink ships!

Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

I'm # 482 and I ordered my fan on 7-28-20. Should I sent it to Spooky and ask them if they will build my machine around it.