All options but no dollar and no butter
#319

I'd be interested to find out what you hear back from Chris. I've had issues with my lower right flipper being weak, adjusting the leaf switch stopped some intermittent half flips and fixed a little bit of strength, but its still never been strong enough to trap the ball and be able to hit the right ramp. Anything over 40 on my coil strength doesn't seem to change anything and my hold is set to medium with 6.5 pitch.

What's the consensus on the scoop - are people putting mylar down in front or is there no need? I had some down in front, but think it may be affecting successful scoop shots and am thinking of removing.

Are there fuses in this pin? My left flipper and pop bumper don't work. All connections look good and I'm out of ideas.

Do they work in test mode?

Open the coin door, pull the white post on the inside left of the coin door frame and go into DIAG then Coil tests and test the individual coils.

If the coils work in test, you probably just need to regap the switch leaves to make them closer on your pop bumper and your left flipper button.

No, coil test was the first thing I tried. Switches register in switch test.

Forgot where I was and was giving you spike2 solutions. For Spooky, yes, there are fuses that control the coils on the board inside the backbox. 3A slo blow. If the board in the backbox looks like the one below, then it's the fuse at F2 on that board in the lower right area.

Spooky-cpu_board-close.jpg

Found it. Blown fuse in the upper board. I didn't notice the fuses behind their plastic protectors when I was looking earlier. Finally, I can play my first game!

Can you take a picture of the fuse you took out? I don't have a spooky machine, but the diagram doesn't specify if they're full size or the short ones like WPC'95/Houdini, etc. Spooky documentation leaves a lot to be desired.

They're the small ones that are used in WPC95 games.

5mm x 20mm or 6mm x 30mm?

I think 5x20 is standard on modern equipment.

6x30 is Williams standard.

It's hard to get a good pic. It's just a 5 x 20mm. Says T4AL 250V

Thanks!

That's 4A, not the 3A the board diagram says it should be. Was that fuse in the F2 spot?

Maybe Spooky started overfusing with 4A fuses in post RZ games to stop them from popping randomly when they were 3A as the diagram shows? There's quite a few posts about it in the Rob Zombie era.

According to the diagram, F1, F2 and F3 all should be 3A, so this 4A one is a surprise.

Also, for the record, this is an "L" ranked slo-blo fuse, which is middle of the ratings for time to blow (according to the IEC 60127-2 spec). H is faster slo-blo and E is even slower slo-blo. Fast blow fuses can have speed ratings, too.

So T is timed or slo-blow fuse type
4A is the amp rating
L is the blow speed within the fuse type (slo/fast blo)
250V is the voltage rating

Are your Rick and Morty F1 to F3 fuses all 4A, too?

You posted a pic of the Pinheck board.

TNA, ACNC and R&M have PROC boards.

rd

Well, that would explain it, thanks. Rob Zombie is the last spooky I've had the backglass off of.

Where's the pic/diagram for that board? The P-ROC I see on multimorphic's site I don't see the fuses.

The fuse ratings for the P-ROC board can be different depending on what is in the game according to their documentation. They were 4A on my game as well.

Thanks. Is there documentation specific to each Spooky game that uses the P-ROC that would show fuse differences, for example? I couldn't find any...

Got to admit, its getting better ,getting better all the time!!!

Got my game set up over the weekend and put in a few solid hours yesterday streaming it. Love the game! I had to make some tweaks to the flipper positioning (and still need to adjust a bit), but overall all my shots are behaving the way they should (meaning, I won't need to adjust rails/forms on the orbits). The one glaring issue is the subwoofer/glass rattle. It's not just glass rattle. It literally rattled my upper ramp opto out of it's connector mid-game. I don't think I really could have imagined just how much rattle the sub is causing this game from peoples descriptions. Take a red tremor shaker and put it on max on a game like game of thrones and even that is less rattle than this is causing. I'm not talking about setting your amp to 100% either, at like 10% sub balance it's still insane. It's unbelievable to me that everyone involved played this game and didn't think "we should put a sub box like on tna on this game".

Yes, you can adjust things to make it less rattly, yes you can put anti-rattle tape under your glass...but why? None of that fixes the core problem which is that the subwoofer needs a ported box. We as a community need to come up with the right sizes and materials for this, because spooky has 100% left us high and dry and on our own for this one.

I love this game, and it deserves better than "bvvvvvvvvvvvzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz"

Sadly I dont think so. It would be nice to have a wiring diagram and fuse list at a very minimum

Yea that is the only really disappointing thing for me. Wish they would have built an enclosure like TNA. Not sure how they can miss the amount of vibration coming from it. I mean it is ridiculous. I am probably going to run a separate speaker outside of the game.

Season 4 has finally dropped on Hulu! I can’t wait to start watching it and I wonder if this means any new S4 content for the code is approved/released this week!?!???

Season 4 has long been aired, this should be nothing new for content

There’s been discussion about how Adult Swim wouldn’t allow Spooky to release S4 content until the S4 DVD’s came out, so finally dropping the whole season on Nov 1 on Hulu (and HBO I think) is potentially reason for content to be approved for release. Charlie also said something in that podcast to the effect of some cool stuff possibly already done but waiting to be unlocked/turned on, so again maybe they’re just waiting for Adult Swim to say OK...

The Season 4 DVDs were released late September.

Yes I was just using that as an example. Charlie noted how particular AS is with the the approval process and for materials to be released etc... So if AS wouldn’t let Hulu or HBO release the whole season until a certain date then it’s reasonable that they could be holding back Spooky in certain materials until a certain date. He also mentioned something big for the R&M camp to come soon while he was discussing the content approval process. Listen to the podcast and see what you think it’s somewhere before the halfway point.

Ok, cool, fair enough. I was wayyy off

I assume they are using the Multimorphic PD-16 boards for the coils/drivers like they used in TNA and ACNC. Here is the manual for ACNC on spookys site.
Fuses are at F1 and F2. 4A fuses slo-blo 5x20mm.

https://www.spookypinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/ACNC-Manual.pdf.
See page 18 for a picture/diagram/reference. Of course the coils/wire locations are different but its the same board.

And that’s the wayyyy the news goes....

Just turn down the bass...almost to off...it'll get rid of the rattle but still be plenty thumpy.

Yeah, it can be done.

Mess with the controls and you’ll sort it out.

I will make a ported sub box for my ACNC at some stage and share the design.

rd

How did you find this? I wasn't able to find any manuals on their website. Is there one for R&M?

How loose should the bottom flubble crank screw be? Took mine off to replace the post rubbers. Man those get beat up to all hell.

8B55EA43-22CC-4983-87C6-5620F2C8F702 (resized).jpeg

Noticed that the newer games are coming with traditional black post sleeves. Looks like they gave up on those.

Please do!

Yes, I've already done that, but again...why? It doesn't actually solve the problem, it just makes it bearable while not dealing with the actual core issue which is a design flaw. That's like applying velcro to things in your car that are rattling because your wheel alignment is out.

https://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/

No manual for R&M. Maybe they will put one together eventually.

Adjusting the amp in no way equates to a design flaw. I wish Spooky would just start shipping the amp turned down a bit so we would quit seeing this complaint. It's getting old. Seriously, just turn the three little knobs until it sounds good. It's really not difficult.

Seems like a valid complaint to me though. Yeah, you can turn down the amp so it doesn't rattle anything (just barely turned on with the knob), but you can't really get full, loud bass out of it without a ton of rattle the way it is now. You can neuter it, but you can't make it sound like its intended to sound.

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. It's great Danesi jams, who doesn't want the bass up?

The way the machine rattles out of the box is absolutely unacceptable.
I used 3 layers of anti rattle tape along with weatherstripping to the backglass panel to get it barely tolerable.

Is the converse a design flaw (applying the same logic) where no bass can be heard, and you have to add an external subwoofer or a $250 aftermarket speaker kit or $400 board (Pinsound) to get any decent sound of the system? People are complaining about "too much bass" when you can turn it down. Spooky can (maybe should) crank all the settings down, then people would complain "not enough bass"?

Not complaining about too much bass. The sound system in the game is one of the best I've heard. However, not enough effort was given to venting the sub and/or preventing unwanted vibration in the rest of the cabinet.

i agree and what I've been saying for some time, but at the same time too much bass is causing the glass to vibrate, so the complaint is still there. Adjust the amp and move on, or apply one of several other solutions posted if you want more.

My two cents...

I’ve had Dead Pool premium for 2 years now. And the sound was “Meh”

So recently I spent a little money on a speaker upgrade (Flipper Fidelity) to make it better, louder and have more bass. Definitely a plus with the music in this pin.

Well I never had the glass rattle before and now I do! So I have to install some anti rattle tape to address it or turn it down. Go figure.

Spooky puts good speakers in their games and we’re complaining about rattling? Would it be better if they used the cheap shit speakers that Stern does?

What the game needs is a box for the sub and port holes out the bottom of the cabinet like TNA has.. I wish they would have continued using them on ACNC and R&M but I'm sure it got axed in the BOM

They should offer it as an option
/add on for a fee.

I would be good with that.

It's a fucking pinball machine, not a high-end sound system for crying out loud.

People on pinside will complain about *anything* it seems.

I added amps and upgraded speakers in my AiQ and it now rattles like a Yugo on Michigan roads. Just the way things work... tighten your loose bits or turn the bass down.

I do think Spooky ships with the bass a bit too high, but it's like, one knob man. Just turn it down.

Does anyone have a recommended fix for getting the mini loop on the right side to register more reliably? I'm only getting about 30%-40% of the shots registering (on the second switch on the shot).

Prediction... this shot will be Rick and Morty's equivalent to the lower ramp shot to the right ring!

LOL< does it matter? I can't hit that damn shot anyway, HA