The hold strength isn't what overheats coils. That heat comes prodominantly from the power strokes, and associated settings.

The problem with medium hold on the right flipper is that it collapses when catching the scoop feed. What is the best way to have a strong hold and also make the left ramp consistently??

Wax the playfield and ramps, it'll fly up there then. Game will be a lot harder for a while though.

Post #3828 EOS position for R&M

If you look in the key posts there is one about the EOS position. Near the end of stroke, but not right at the end, a little before where u would set a bally/williams eos
This works well for me on medium hold, the scoop only drops the flip a very small amount.
I had my hold on high before I adjusted the EOS

Check your gap between the bottom of the flipper and the top of the white nylon flipper bushing poking through the playfield. If it's too tight that will rob power. There should be about the thickness of a credit card of vertical play.

If that has a gap so there's some play, REMOVE the flipper coil stop and inspect. Nothing should be loose on it. You sometimes can't tell if the flipper coil stop has broken without removing it, but it will cause what you describe, and sometimes the flipper will stick briefly in the up position, too.

I tried the hold strength at medium and high. I can switch it back to medium. I'll also check for any binding, but I'm pretty sure the mech is fine. I've also tried adjusting the flipper position - I moved it up a few degrees to make the back-flip into the right ramp easier, but maybe that's making the left ramp harder?

Thanks for the tips, I'll check the gap and coil stop (although I have no issues the the flipper sticking in the upper position).

My EOS is adjusted exactly as you described. A scoop feed shouldn’t collapse a flipper held up.

A broken coil doesn't always cause occasional flipper stick but it will rob power, so you can still have a broken coil even if you're not seeing the occasional sticking.

When I checked the flipper mech I noticed that the EOS leaf was engaging way before the end of the flipper stroke and that was adding an additional pressure and (I'm assuming) robbing power. I adjusted the EOS so it engaged at the end of the stroke and the flipper seems to make the left ramp shot more consistently, even with the power lowered to 40. The only issue is now occasionally the flipper will stick in the up position?

I haven't checked the coil stop yet.

That sticking might be related to the EOS being too tightly adjusted which is a quirk related to the Spooky hardware somehow.

Or, it could be a broken coil stop.

Also sometimes, the switch leaf can "grip" or snag on the pawl/crank switch activating tang, binding it up at the full stroke position.

Suggesting this as it adds up with that you have been adjusting the eos switch.

Sometimes with alot of deflection the rubber boot on the crank tang can hook up on the very end of the switch blade (for some setups) preventing the crank/flipper from freely returning to rest.

That doesn’t impact the pin/support that goes through the playfield holding the end in place?

I had a weird thing happen to my R&M on location. I stepped up to play it and realized the pop bumper wasn't popping. Took a look at it and the ring was cocked at a funny angle. The whole thing was binding so I lifted the playfield and realized one of the lock nuts had fallen off the pop bumper ring so that one side had slid down and locked the ring in place. Thankfully the coil was fine. I located the nut and reassembled it. Tightly.

Having owned well over 100 games from all eras and companies I have never had a lock nut come off a pop bumper so I never checked it. I'm gonna put that one on the assembly line person. Anyway, no harm, no foul just a PSA to maybe double-check the tightness of those nuts.

That’s a common problem. It’s happened to a few here, little metal to grip on the screw. I will use some locktite if it falls off again.

This happened to my TNA, but hasn't happened to my R&M. Will plan on proactively adding Loctite.

That pic I posted is my game, the u turn has been perfect from day 1. My friends r&m (he posted here looking for solutions) would only register u turn less then 50%. We took slow mo vid of both our u turns, and saw that his hugged the outer guide all the way around, and missed the switch. Slow-mo of mine showed it hug the rail, until it got to the two creases I highlighted in red in my pic, those creases kick the ball back in towards the switch. My mate then made tweaks from what he saw in the videos.
My understanding is that he grabbed the end of the outer rail with long nose pliers, and put similar bends in the very end of his rail, plus tweaked the switch, now he registers 100%. It was done in place without removing any guides, altho this is based off his description, I didn't do the tweaks
IMG_20201026_174815 (resized).jpg

Moving forward, I will be selling the Blue Crystal Scoop Mod direct. I think the initial surge is over and it will be easier for me to distribute this way. Please PM if interested. Thanks to all that have supported this project.

Does anyone sell a scoop light as a plug in mod?

Yep that's exactly what I did to fix the issue.

So are leg protectors included?

Yes

I can tell you where it would fit.... the one where he runs / splatter into the wall would be a perfect match sequence !

the legs on my R&M are pinched in. I put felt and additional plastic leg protectors but no matter what my legs are pinching against the cabinet.

This might have been asked before but it feels like every time I check into this thread, someone is mentioning how the "bass is too loud" which leads to "rattling the glass", and then we have others telling them to lower the bass or put some tape on the glass. Any reason why Spooky isn't doing this at the factory? I mean, why are they putting the bass too high, especially if the music is part of the game's core strengths? Seems like an odd thing to overlook, especially when post after post is complaining about it.

I believe the cabinet is mostly airtight and the internal subwoofer is inside the cabinet (not like TNA which had the speaker inside an box) therefore when the bass is loud it rattles the air inside the cabinet and causes glass to rattle effectively the cabinet is like a large speaker enclosure. I can feel the air escaping at the flipper button but mostly it just rattles the glass. I turned the bass amp almost completely off. I attached the speaker wires to an external subwoofer.

Oh purty please! and make it a spoooooky one!

The woofer is oversized for the cabinet IMO. The bass that comes from it isn’t tight at all. It’s muddy and sloppy. So it’s a combo of a bad woofer choice for the cabinet and the amp overdriving it. I agree an external sub is the best route right now.

It seems that this batch of legs is slightly less than 90 degrees an must pinch to be attached.

older williams legs seem to be slightly more than 90 degrees, no pinch...

fender washers?
double up the thin protector?
switch out the legs?

Make up a better protector out of old williams legs?

I felt like air was trying to escape too. It made me think if the cabinet had a few ports drilled it might have been fine.

Is the speaker on R&M an actual subwoofer and not just a woofer? If it is a sub then yeah, it would be the right thing to have an air port of 4" or so in the cabinet bottom or back.

It’s a large subwoofer. But not enclosed like TNA. Is it 12 inches?

I’ve always thought the way to go with ACNC/R&M is to make a box, ala TNA, but port it through the bottom of the cab.

I used to make sound enclosures for bands (as one does), I’d buy the 18” speakers and make the cabinets. Big W Bins and the like. I had a book from the States that had all the acoustic designs. Half the bass comes from the back of the speaker, you need the ports to move the air.

I fully intend to make one for my ACNC - I’ve just been really busy restoring a house the whole year.

I’ll report back when I do make it!

rd

Try these. They're at least twice as thick. No way the leg will hit the cabinet.

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-hidden/

The cabinet speaker needs an enclosure. Unless a speaker is designed to operate in open-air (which a pinball cabinet is essentially open air) the speaker will not sound good. It's been a problem with all pinball machines up to TNA, where an actual enclosure was included. The enclosure will keep the speaker from moving the free air inside of the cabinet, which means no glass rattle unless you really crank it up. And you'll get tighter bass notes.

You can bypass this by turning the amp down, building an enclosure, or adding an external sub. IMO, amp adjustment is personal preference, and I would rather Spooky spend time building, testing, and shipping games, and fiddle around with amp settings.

Side note, you can get a Polk PSW10 for $50 on CL. Cheapest and easiest way to "fix" the bass.

Need to find the Q and V specs for this speaker and go to town, I'm just not sure I have the balls to drill port holes into my butter cabinet. LOL But I can tell you this, I'm not turning down the bass since feeling the game is part of the experience. So I already ordered rolls of that Tesa fabric tape.

I noticed mine were pinching and cut/pushed the decal in three locations. It's the left side of the leg that is pushing in. I took mine off and put some plastic protectors on and noticed my legs were also less than 90 degrees. Can't tell exactly how much, but you can visually see it's not a right angle. The legs have actually cracked the plastic clear ones I got.

To everyone just putting plastic protectors on when the legs are pinching your cabinet, I’d advise you don’t do that. It will just expand the area of contact and make a larger problem. If your legs are part of the recent batch that seems to be flawed, contact spooky.

My “recent batch” was back in June.

Now we're talkin!

Those suckers are perfect.

Did you contact spooky?

Quick question for you guys who own this pin, preferably second owners. I have the opportunity to get on in a few weeks (NIB) at a premium over MSRP, but nothing crazy...about going rate for used, maybe a little less. I have played it on location and enjoyed it. I haven't read everything in all the R&M posts but whats the plans for Spooky to add more adventures and how often has it happened. Does anyone have buyers remorse? especially at the premium prices.....Im on the fence.

Spooky/Eric have said they plan to add more adventures but Eric has tempered all of our expectations (rightfully so). I imagine there will be handful of additional ones and there was talk about a wizard mode. I do hope more content gets added. More adventures would be great. So would an additional multiball mode. Right now we only have 2 MB modes and Meeseeks Mania, although awesome, tends to start when you don't expect it. Need another MB mode that we activate like the Grom Battle.

That said, the game is really great as it stands. No buyers remorse here. It helps that I have been a huge fan of the show since season 1. The game is tough which helps with longevity. I don't think you will be disappointed.

I just contacted them as per advice from this thread. Will report back once i get word from them. Im #131.

We bought ours (BSE #74) used and are very very happy with it. It may as well have been new. We paid a premium but were happy to do it. No buyers remorse here. We play it a lot and are really enjoying it.

As far as your other questions I'm sure someone else can speak to that.

~Sandra

Here you go. I made a snapshot from the PE web. https://www.parts-express.com/grs-10sw-4-10-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-482

I made a few mods to my R&M and really improved the sound! I'll post more details soon.
One simple test to do is to open the coin door and see if that reduces the glass rattle. I figure that's a pretty big port! I already put some anti-rattle tape on my glass so I can't easily see what effect the open door has on the glass rattle.

I tried the Tesa fabric tape but I found it was not that sticky. Maybe my roll was old?? Please let me know how yours works.

Speaker_specs (resized).jpg

Hello,

I was "on the fence" for TNA meaning didn't know if it was a good enough pin etc. and I asked a lot of questions and talked to owners and got to play a few games but the few games played on location was nothing compared to owning the pin. I am talking about TNA but the same can be said of R&M, I wasn't sure got a chance to play on location liked it but still wasn't quite sure. But in the home environment is way way better.

I think R&M is brilliant pin. I just got it but love the pin and the layout is much better than I had thought and the rules are great. I think there will be more modes but no idea when. I think there should be 11 modes (or more) so you could fill up the card and not get any repeats. I won't likely get 10 modes in one game but to me the modes are the best part of the rules.

I don't know how much I would pay, the game is already pretty expensive with shipping I was at $8200 without butter cabinet. I think it's already priced at a premium, I don't mind paying that much to support Spooky but I really would not want to pay much more than that.

Does anyone have buyers remorse? especially at the premium prices.....Im on the fence.

I do yes. Selling after a week or so.

Booooo.