(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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  • 742 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 hours ago by Jigz
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106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 20,219 posts in this topic. You are on page 137 of 405.
14
#6801 3 years ago

Remember to email us if you have an issue guys! We don't know unless you tell us!

#6802 3 years ago
Quoted from MrCliftron:

There have been some issues with the legs from spooky having a fighters angle than they are supposed to and as a result, digging into the machine a bit. For those without leg protectors on hand, best to use different legs for now. That's why the different legs here.

I knew that.

Good thinking.... I have a spare set of legs to. I’ll have to keep this in mind when I get mine, hopefully in the next 2/3 weeks.

#6803 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I knew that.
Good thinking.... I have a spare set of legs to. I’ll have to keep this in mind when I get mine, hopefully in the next 2/3 weeks.

To be clear most legs are totally fine and even if someone does have an issue its often 1 or 2 legs not the whole game. Also everything we currently have in the shop seems to be correct and good.

#6804 3 years ago

I have this handy tool I bought from Home Depot for when I was installing floor trim in my basement. I think I’ll try to use this on the legs when I get mine to make sure they are not less than 90 degrees. Pretty sure it will fit.

I’ll have to try it on my spare legs when I get home from work today.

The tool is only like 5/6 bucks. Works great for cutting trim at the right angle though!
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#6805 3 years ago

I got a couple of "bad" legs, too. Wish I would have known before putting them on. Damage isn't too noticeable, but still...

#6806 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

Remember to email us if you have an issue guys! We don't know unless you tell us!

Spooky needs to work on their Psychic Support Hotline(tm)!

#6807 3 years ago

Doubling up your protectors is the best solution until Spooky comes up with a factory fix (thicker metal protector). In my case I had an extra set of the stock plastic Stern protectors.-i swap these with metal on Stern games.

If you double them up the leg no longer touches the decal, whereas before mine made slight contact on one leg.

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#6808 3 years ago

The Blue Crystal Mod is now available.

https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-pinball-blue-crystal-scoop-mod.html

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#6809 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Doubling up your protectors is the best solution until Spooky comes up with a factory fix (thicker metal protector). In my case I had an extra set of the stock plastic Stern protectors.-i swap these with metal on Stern games.
If you double them up the leg no longer touches the decal, whereas before mine made slight contact on one leg.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, but that only works before you have the damage.

#6810 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Doubling up your protectors is the best solution until Spooky comes up with a factory fix (thicker metal protector). In my case I had an extra set of the stock plastic Stern protectors.-i swap these with metal on Stern games.
If you double them up the leg no longer touches the decal, whereas before mine made slight contact on one leg.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

And on some games metal protector will cause decals to ripple.

I know on other games you have to cut the decal around protector so protector just isn't touching decal at all.

Then double up with plastic over metal.

I don't own this title but have had bad decal experiences on many other games!

#6811 3 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

There are consequences to all these Mortys that have Prestiged to receive their higher numbered games...especially “THOSE” times, you little junkies!
- DtF
(“Soon To Be” Proud owner of a Jerry Edition)[quoted image]

I am fairly certain that since 231 has not shipped (at this point being the Ultimate Jerry Edition) someone at Spooky has Soul Bonded with your machine and it will never leave Wisconsin. Soul bonding is not just for Dragons anymore.

#6812 3 years ago

236 supposed to be delivered tomorrow between 1-5PM.

We’re leaving for the beach at 5PM so I may not get a chance to unbox the pin.

#6813 3 years ago

“I’m telling you Rick, Jerry Edition 231 should be any day now. Don’t worry about the dimensional splicing placements, they’re split into batches. The dimension number is based upon a theoretical hypothesis, dependent upon the options selected. Ignore the practical order you expect of numerical digits, as the reasoning cannot be understood by your kind in C-137.”

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#6814 3 years ago

Anyone else having issues with the pop bumper? I keep adjusting the switch, but after a few dozen games the gap is wider again and I need to close it a little or else the ball will just hit the bumper and roll to the flipper.

#6815 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

To quote "Chopper":
"It either Works, or it uses Bluetooth ... but it can't be fu@king both!"

Was just watching the great Bana flick the other day!

#6816 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Anyone else having issues with the pop bumper? I keep adjusting the switch, but after a few dozen games the gap is wider again and I need to close it a little or else the ball will just hit the bumper and roll to the flipper.

Check and make sure neither of the nuts came off underneath. This happened to me along with a few other people. I had to tighten them both back up and the adjust the switch.

#6817 3 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

And on some games metal protector will cause decals to ripple.
I know on other games you have to cut the decal around protector so protector just isn't touching decal at all.
Then double up with plastic over metal.
I don't own this title but have had bad decal experiences on many other games!

I’m having same problem. Going to get a second set of metal protectors I guess

#6818 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I’m having same problem. Going to get a second set of metal protectors I guess

What is Spooky’s solution when you call them? Sending an extra set of leg protectors??

#6819 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

Remember to email us if you have an issue guys! We don't know unless you tell us!

email sent

#6820 3 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

So it looks like I'm the only R&M owner whose pop light never worked properly. It went from hardly lighting at all to now out completely.
I've adjusted the bulb which helps temporarily but then dies out. I'm assuming that I have to completely remove the housing and re-solder each wire. I don't exactly know how to do this since the housing is so hard to get into.
I'm not complaining, just writing notes for any future owner who has the same issue. Hopefully I will figure this out and help others down the road who have the same issue. Totally annoying since it looks like such a big part of the game. It never turned white, never blinked at the start of a game for a megaseed alert, and never blinked at the start of pickle rick. It lit every other time but those 3 times. Now it doesn't work at all.

I FIGURED IT OUT!

I went into LED test mode and scrolled all the way down... scrolling up is easier, but anyway... I found the pop light and when I turned it on, a completely different light on the pin was blinking (inner loop arrow). When I put it on inner loop arrow, the left ramp rectangle was blinking. When I put it on left ramp arrow, the pop light would blink. I removed electrical tape and had to move the male to male connector on one of the connections to fix everything. Once I did, the pop worked!

Additional Stuff:

I also adjusted the inner loop. I removed the plastic and took off the screws that held down the ball guide (3 of them) and bent the guide into a more-curved position around halfway up the inner loop.

I also adjusted the garage shot. That took a little longer, moved a lot of plastic and maybe 10 screws to get to the ball guide. Same deal as above, just curved it and made it fit more snug to the left side of the playfield.

OH, and I removed the house and bent the back end of the inner loop shot. I bent it more towards the front of the game. This allowed the ball to better clear the back of the playfield as it cleared the inner loop. I also worked to get the diverter unstuck. I didn't even know the game had one. I got it unstuck and now it prevents the ball from getting into the garage from the right orbit shot.

Lots of adjustments, glad I made them. The game works flawlessly now. Very fluid. It's like a whole new game!

#6821 3 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

I FIGURED IT OUT!
I went into LED test mode and scrolled all the way down... scrolling up is easier, but anyway... I found the pop light and when I turned it on, a completely different light on the pin was blinking (inner loop arrow). When I put it on inner loop arrow, the left ramp rectangle was blinking. When I put it on left ramp arrow, the pop light would blink. I removed electrical tape and had to move the male to male connector on one of the connections to fix everything. Once I did, the pop worked!
Additional Stuff:
I also adjusted the inner loop. I removed the plastic and took off the screws that held down the ball guide (3 of them) and bent the guide into a more-curved position around halfway up the inner loop.
I also adjusted the garage shot. That took a little longer, moved a lot of plastic and maybe 10 screws to get to the ball guide. Same deal as above, just curved it and made it fit more snug to the left side of the playfield.
OH, and I removed the house and bent the back end of the inner loop shot. I bent it more towards the front of the game. This allowed the ball to better clear the back of the playfield as it cleared the inner loop. I also worked to get the diverter unstuck. I didn't even know the game had one. I got it unstuck and now it prevents the ball from getting into the garage from the right orbit shot.
Lots of adjustments, glad I made them. The game works flawlessly now. Very fluid. It's like a whole new game!

Do you have any pictures of the adjustments? Or are they similar to ones from earlier in the thread

#6822 3 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

IN....I’m a YUGE fan of that classic Jerry look. So spot on for that extra Jerry sizzle!
I would so add that to the panel!

Mod orders flying in. So many it’s going to be hard to manage so I’m going to make these in Batches for #’s 230-239.

Batch 1 will be #’s 239, 236, and 230 in that order.

Batch 2 will be #’s 238 and 232.

Batch 3 will be #237 only.

Batch 4 will be #’s 233, 234, and 235 just to try synchronous numbering.

Final Batch will be #231 but I will only make it when RM #657 has shipped. #231 will have the word “Ultimate” before the word “Jerry”.

Hard at work:

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#6823 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

Do you have any pictures of the adjustments? Or are they similar to ones from earlier in the thread

Similar. I didn't want to pile on.

10
#6824 3 years ago

Just unboxed and setup #246, have not had a chance to level it or get many plays in but she's gorgeous. Sorry to #231, im sure yours will be home soon.

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#6825 3 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

I FIGURED IT OUT!
I went into LED test mode and scrolled all the way down... scrolling up is easier, but anyway... I found the pop light and when I turned it on, a completely different light on the pin was blinking (inner loop arrow). When I put it on inner loop arrow, the left ramp rectangle was blinking. When I put it on left ramp arrow, the pop light would blink. I removed electrical tape and had to move the male to male connector on one of the connections to fix everything. Once I did, the pop worked!
Additional Stuff:
I also adjusted the inner loop. I removed the plastic and took off the screws that held down the ball guide (3 of them) and bent the guide into a more-curved position around halfway up the inner loop.
I also adjusted the garage shot. That took a little longer, moved a lot of plastic and maybe 10 screws to get to the ball guide. Same deal as above, just curved it and made it fit more snug to the left side of the playfield.
OH, and I removed the house and bent the back end of the inner loop shot. I bent it more towards the front of the game. This allowed the ball to better clear the back of the playfield as it cleared the inner loop. I also worked to get the diverter unstuck. I didn't even know the game had one. I got it unstuck and now it prevents the ball from getting into the garage from the right orbit shot.
Lots of adjustments, glad I made them. The game works flawlessly now. Very fluid. It's like a whole new game!

I would think these adjustments could easily be done by spooky when building the machine? :/

#6826 3 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

I would think these adjustments could easily be done by spooky when building the machine? :/

I had one of the earlier builds, well before much of the feedback came through. They did adjust some things on their own, like the inner loop rail screw was purposely removed by spooky.

I am miffed at the quality control though. The game was delivered with 5 connections in the wrong spot, and my game in particular was dead on arrival. How does that stuff happen? But what separates Spooky from all other companies is their ability to make things right. They got on the phone with me and shipped a new part to me within 24 hours of my purchase. Whenever I email them with an issue, they email back with the answers I need. I also own ACNC and my dumb ass killed the servo board. I contacted Spooky about it and Morgan sent me a whole new board at no cost!

Sure, we could complain that this tiny little company isn't living up to big company standards, but they always make up for it and do the right thing in the end. I love what they do for their community too. It's a family company and I will be there to support them when they release their next title too!... assuming I like the theme and all that.

#6827 3 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

I had one of the earlier builds, well before much of the feedback came through. They did adjust some things on their own, like the inner loop rail screw was purposely removed by spooky.
I am miffed at the quality control though. The game was delivered with 5 connections in the wrong spot, and my game in particular was dead on arrival. How does that stuff happen? But what separates Spooky from all other companies is their ability to make things right. They got on the phone with me and shipped a new part to me within 24 hours of my purchase. Whenever I email them with an issue, they email back with the answers I need. I also own ACNC and my dumb ass killed the servo board. I contacted Spooky about it and Morgan sent me a whole new board at no cost!
Sure, we could complain that this tiny little company isn't living up to big company standards, but they always make up for it and do the right thing in the end. I love what they do for their community too. It's a family company and I will be there to support them when they release their next title too!... assuming I like the theme and all that.

Yes absolutely, I am in for one closer to 600, so one of the later builds, hoping even some more stuff might be smoothed out by then. but as you say, it is a small company and as I already own TNA I am very happy to support them. Still, hoping that the physical tweaks and adjustments are taken care of at the factory

-2
#6828 3 years ago

I am glad you are all enjoying your pins. Does anyone have any idea when spooky is going to release a new title?

#6829 3 years ago
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:

I am glad you are all enjoying your pins. Does anyone have any idea when spooky is going to release a new title?

Late 2021-ish’ ...???

They seem to be about 1/3 of the way through manufacturing R&M.

#6830 3 years ago
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:

I am glad you are all enjoying your pins. Does anyone have any idea when spooky is going to release a new title?

What about the Ben Heck / Spooky / CGC partnership game? That may come soonish.

#6831 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

What about the Ben Heck / Spooky / CGC partnership game? That may come soonish.

Wrong thread.

#6832 3 years ago

“Did someone say they saw 246 lurking around before 231? Where? WHERE?!?!? Is there no order to this madness?!?”

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16
#6833 3 years ago

I believe 231 had a drill bit sent through the playfield during final testing(Blame spooky Bug)! Had to be rebuilt I think it is getting boxed today. The cabinets are pre built with all the add-ons specific serial number to game so when we have one damaged on the line we swap the whole playfield and re-assemble.

#6835 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I believe 231 had a drill bit sent through the playfield during final testing(Blame spooky Bug)! Had to be rebuilt I think it is getting boxed today. The cabinets are pre built with all the add-ons specific serial number to game so when we have one damaged on the line we swap the whole playfield and re-assemble.

Awwwe jeez, thanks Luke for the update on Jerry Edition 231!!! Such a Jerry type of thing to happen to the first Jerry Edition R&M! Sounds like Bug literally soul bonded with this pin using the bit.

What's the likelihood of the Jerry Edition designation somewhere on the pin? Is there an Easter egg hidden somewhere? lol

#6836 3 years ago

I have been able to get a few more plays in this morning and wanted to report in. Very first shot I attempted after unboxing was a garage shot and it was super smooth, I was able to hit it 4 more times easily during the next couple games so whatever adjustments being made are working. I have played an earlier run local that was nowhere near as easy to hit. The inner loop I can not confirm since I'm terrible and have not even got it in the zip code of the opening yet. Lights look great, nothing seems off so far. The upper flipper switch seems to be a tad off which should be an easy adjustment since it seems to want to be fully pressed before engaging and will release sometimes during a press so will just have to adjust that switch. Besides that the bass is super loud so will crawl in and turn that down later. Otherwise game looks and plays great.

#6837 3 years ago

Pinbalk life just says 'add to wishlist' when I try to buy one... any advice ?

#6838 3 years ago

Can we get a confirmation that Spooky has indeed made changes to the rails in the loops and garage shots?

I have read through the key posts and such to see what the fixes are, are these being done from the factory now?

#6839 3 years ago

Also on this leg thing... has anyone installed the light legs and ... what color and... can you share a picture.

I have them on TNA and like them a lot.... but just cannot decide the color to use... thinking white just to highlight the butter cabinet

#6840 3 years ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

Can we get a confirmation that Spooky has indeed made changes to the rails in the loops and garage shots?
I have read through the key posts and such to see what the fixes are, are these being done from the factory now?

In my opinion this isn't needed.
Hardly ever brick that shot, it is hit it or miss it.

#6841 3 years ago
Quoted from jbigdoggf:

Pinbalk life just says 'add to wishlist' when I try to buy one... any advice ?

I was able to order it yesterday, so I suspect it might be out of stock.

#6842 3 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

In my opinion this isn't needed.
Hardly ever brick that shot, it is hit it or miss it.

But does it rattle around in those shots? It seems to me that's what most of these fixes solved, just smoothing things out to make things less clunky.

#6843 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I believe 231 had a drill bit sent through the playfield during final testing(Blame spooky Bug)! Had to be rebuilt I think it is getting boxed today. The cabinets are pre built with all the add-ons specific serial number to game so when we have one damaged on the line we swap the whole playfield and re-assemble.

So a factory installed ultra deep dimple? should have shipped it that way lol.

#6844 3 years ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

But does it rattle around in those shots? It seems to me that's what most of these fixes solved, just smoothing things out to make things less clunky.

Shots are smooth when you hit them, clunk when you don't, like any game. They're difficult, narrow shots; no amount of messing with them is going to make them wider or easier. Imo.

#6845 3 years ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

But does it rattle around in those shots? It seems to me that's what most of these fixes solved, just smoothing things out to make things less clunky.

Nah not really, it’s a wide shot though so there IS a sweet spot.
The best/most reliable way at least for me is to hit a perfect inner loop shot and then just hold up the flipper.
Reminds me of The Shadow.

#6846 3 years ago

So my stand up targets on the left side were pretty unresponsive and I try to avoid adjusting leaf switches if I can avoid it. (I can never find my damn leaf switch adjustment tool usually) So I just removed the foam pads behind the switches and they are working as I would expect now. I did a little googling on the foam pads and it appears that they are a common thing but I've never seen one before. I'm assuming that they are there to provide a cushion for the target to keep the target from breaking over time. However, those three targets on the left aren't getting a lot of abuse so I'm guessing removing the foam should not be catastrophic for a HUO machine.

I'm the second owner of my machine and I'm assuming the foam pads were in there from the factory.

Anybody have thoughts or experiences on this topic?

#6847 3 years ago
Quoted from sandersj:

So my stand up targets on the left side were pretty unresponsive and I try to avoid adjusting leaf switches if I can avoid it. (I can never find my damn leaf switch adjustment tool usually) So I just removed the foam pads behind the switches and they are working as I would expect now. I did a little googling on the foam pads and it appears that they are a common thing but I've never seen one before. I'm assuming that they are there to provide a cushion for the target to keep the target from breaking over time. However, those three targets on the left aren't getting a lot of abuse so I'm guessing removing the foam should not be catastrophic for a HUO machine.
I'm the second owner of my machine and I'm assuming the foam pads were in there from the factory.
Anybody have thoughts or experiences on this topic?

I thought of doing that, but figured that the foam would are intended to balance out/crush over time so I decided to leave in.

12
#6848 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I believe 231 had a drill bit sent through the playfield during final testing(Blame spooky Bug)!

Spooky Bug to the office please... !

#6849 3 years ago
Quoted from sandersj:

So my stand up targets on the left side were pretty unresponsive and I try to avoid adjusting leaf switches if I can avoid it. (I can never find my damn leaf switch adjustment tool usually) So I just removed the foam pads behind the switches and they are working as I would expect now. I did a little googling on the foam pads and it appears that they are a common thing but I've never seen one before. I'm assuming that they are there to provide a cushion for the target to keep the target from breaking over time. However, those three targets on the left aren't getting a lot of abuse so I'm guessing removing the foam should not be catastrophic for a HUO machine.
I'm the second owner of my machine and I'm assuming the foam pads were in there from the factory.
Anybody have thoughts or experiences on this topic?

I had very unresponsive standups too but after adjusting the leaf switches it sorted them.

#6850 3 years ago
Quoted from sandersj:

So my stand up targets on the left side were pretty unresponsive and I try to avoid adjusting leaf switches if I can avoid it. (I can never find my damn leaf switch adjustment tool usually) So I just removed the foam pads behind the switches and they are working as I would expect now. I did a little googling on the foam pads and it appears that they are a common thing but I've never seen one before. I'm assuming that they are there to provide a cushion for the target to keep the target from breaking over time. However, those three targets on the left aren't getting a lot of abuse so I'm guessing removing the foam should not be catastrophic for a HUO machine.
I'm the second owner of my machine and I'm assuming the foam pads were in there from the factory.
Anybody have thoughts or experiences on this topic?

Manually pressing the target foam and "breaking them in" is usually enough to get them soft enough to register. The foam provides cushion to the back of the target to the bracket, and also provides a little spring to bounce the ball back into play.

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