Lit like any other adventure, it just can’t be the first adventure (garage is more difficult a shot).

Game froze on me today. I was having a good game too. Got into the scoop for multiball and double hit the flippers immediately. Game released one ball, allowed me to play on for a few seconds with the other ball locked and 3rd ball in scoop, even though the multiball intro was still playing, then the game restarted.

epthegeek

lastest code.

Send me a log, he says as always.

/“crash” not “freeze”. Very different things.

1. My left in/out lane lights.
2. Dimension reentry arrow.
3. Slam arrow.
4. Bottom left morty card light.
5. In/out lane GI lights.
6. All left GI lights up side 4 under the big left plastic, and 3 under left ramp.
Are all out.

Message from the underlit Freeeek Kingdom.

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Scratch all that,
The light driver board, in the center of playfield, above the opto board is wonky.
We got it to light, by pressing on the power connector but it wont stay on, or sych colors.

And of course there are a zillion wires in the way. Shit.

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It definitely didn't freeze. It crashed. I've had mine freeze before and this wasn't it.

I don't have a log as my game is at an on-site location, and I don't carry a flash drive with me. I should start doing that.

.
It's unfortunate when you spend all this money on a new machine and have to do stuff like this. Stern switched to plastic brackets likely as cost savings however the added benefit is they are thicker then the metal ones. I feel bad for the newbies who never purchased NIB before and don't know any better.

Yes,isn,t it!!!

The PD-LED needs a tight connection on the 5V power. Simply spread the 2 pins on the board power connector slightly to get the connector plug to connect tighter and this will fix your issue.

Good tip! Too much White Claw in the Freeeeeeak Kingdom.

Just so everyone knows... we are having our supplier check on the legs being slightly more narrow. No idea why they would be, but we'll find out. Pretty sure these are all stamped on 1 machine for all pinball companies. None of us own a giant leg stamper.

Also can you report back exact version of the code you have when you plug in the stick. There’s a bunch of latest versions floating arond.

Checked the legs on mine today, they are fine, about 1mm gap off the decals. I'm a low number, 20.

Why is “Balls” capitalized? After lower case “my”, it makes it looks like “Balls Axl” and “Balls Thanos” are a person’s name.

Should have at least had a comma. “Lick my balls, Axl”

Lick my balls

<insert grill>

Axl

#237 arrived today after an absolutely horrible experience w/ R&L Carriers. They “forgot” to put it on the truck on Thursday and Friday, and it finally showed up at 7am this morning (Saturday). I’ll never use them for shipping a pin in the future.

Handful of issues that I’m going to be working my way through - many of these have been reported by others.

- Right flipper button has issues. Top flipper engages first, followed by the bottom one, so I’m guessing the wires are backwards on the dual leafs. The bottom one also doesn’t engage reliably.
- Ridiculous levels of bass. I’ve dialed the sub volume just a hair over completely off (counter clockwise). Seems like it is way too sensitive to the tiniest adjustment. I will need some kind of anti rattle tape for sure.
- Shaker motor is also way too strong, so I’ll open it up and tweak the angle between the weights.
- Getting quite a few air balls on the right ramp. Does it need some kind of shield/protector there? Maybe flipper strength should be dialed down.
- Looks like I’m having the cab decal issue around the legs that others have reported recently. I’m going to either add an additional protector, or some washers/shims. This is more than a little annoying, and makes me not want to play it until I figure out a solution.

Glad to finally have my machine, but wish it were a bit more “ready to play” out of the box.

I just ran into another game where I hit this shot twice and the megaseed on it didn't collect. I did see the loop light get triggered, so I grabbed the audit logs off the game and will send those along to @epthegeek.

Shots to the loop back are registered by the switch on the right. Just make sure your switch activates ok with the ball.

Yeah it is definitely more about the way the top flange of the leg is formed. I've found it varies quite a bit. It's like some legs are "over-formed" or something. The mounting face forming overall less than 90 degrees, meaning the outer edges project toward the cabinet. When pressing, the same dies can give a different result depending on a few factors, one being material, another being tonnage (or force). More force or less springy material will affect the "set" or the amount of "spring back". If the cabinet protector standoffs were slightly larger all would be fine, one solution.

Example, 1 out of 4 of my TNA legs touches the cabinet no matter where I bolt it on. All other legs there is about 1mm gap at minimum, both sides.

It just means I put that leg on the back, so that it rubs on the rear cabinet face. Just a slightly off kilter pressing, slightly out of tolerance in some way.

Larger leg protector standoffs would be the practical fix, I would rekon.

I don't like the artwork cut away around the leg outline. Same with playfields incidentally, and deleted art around posts etc. , because everyone can't achieve as good as we could 30 years ago, apparently.

More surface area hey? ... a little larger footprint so standoff comes closer to edges of legs.

Problem being that the over formed leg would still flex the plastic inward, to a collision course with the cabinet decal just the same They are bigger than leg outline so could be even worse..

"THAT's what SHE said!"

Well,I don't have to say anything anymore, the last hundred posts say it for me! Don't they!!!!

JJP and Stern legs are same story, variability, some legs still get into the cabinet despite the standoffs.

If the standoffs from the supplier extended say 5mm more all the way around, it wouldn't be a problem.

If we needed a canary in a cage for minor pinball issues, you're a prime candidate!!

Try raising minor issues like this in a stern thread, and see if anything pro active ever comes about there!

One thing is for sure, newer machine legs are thinner and way more flexible than old legs. Just another 'modern perk' of manufacturing things cheaper.

Well...after several weeks and several mistakes, I have finalized the design. If interested, the mod will be available on the PinballLife website sometime in the the next week or so. I chose to distribute through them as it creates the least amount of work for me.

Many thanks to all the Pinsiders that provided comments and support throughout this process. What a great community we have here! Enjoy.

Link to instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M99yqI-EcPWj1QbXQwtzAMZ-CoG1uaATHaIPvZC7L3Y/edit?usp=sharing
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Note: the mod is always lit blue but combined with the playfield light show, it appears to turn colors.
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very nice!

Can we see a picture of it zoomed out with the rest of the play field in the photo, please?

perfect timing... I need to put an order into PL anyway!

Looks amazing!

Nice work!!!

Maybe, post a link once its a available on PBL? (if that's allowed)

Looks great. I wanted in on this from the beginning. What's the price? (I don't see it yet on the pinball life site... and, of course, I just placed an order with them yesterday )

I've noticed the same issue on my machine. What is the fix for this? The switch activates in test but not in gameplay unless the ball is moving very slowly. Thanks.

Thanks for the kind comments. The mod will be $50.

I had same issue. Was not wired backwards. The space between the contacts had to be adjusted to make sure the lower flipper fired before (or at same time) the upper flipper and on a consistent basis. I adjusted the gap between the contacts and it has been good since (knock on wood).

$50 bucks for that!!!

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Well.....after several games with the new mod installed, I can confirm it will not help improve your scores. I am still a terrible player.
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Maybe you installed it incorrectly

And you're missing a ramp screw.

That alone could cost you 10,000,000 points.

Good eye. Actually. There is a screw missing from each ramp. I only put one screw in the ramps when I am constantly swapping the parts in and out. I will get them installed soon. Thanks!

I believe there's three power settings for shaker, don't go changing weights until go through settings.

Make sure this guy's coindoor lock is extra-tight, seems like he's hard to please...

That is fantastic news, thanks for the update!

Holy crap, getting R&M next week, what should I do to protect the decal from the legs??

Buy the felt protectors from PinballLife. All my JJPs come with them from the factory, I bought a set for RM and it left with zero damage.

I haven’t tried the nylon washer suggestion yet, but that and the felt is what I’m going to try. Just make sure when you install your legs there is space between the leg and the cab.

I just turned up the lower right and upper right flippers on my game (40 and 25 respectively) and increased the lower right hold power to high as I was getting a lot of dips when the scoop kicked out. First game after making the adjustments was the best I’ve had.

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Is there any reason not to put the hold strength to high?

Keeps the flipper from collapsing during play.

You’d have to ask SpookyLuke or someone more knowledgeable than myself on that one. At first I was thinking the EOS switch needed adjusted by decided to try this first when I saw the option.

Pull off the metal protectors.
Place fender washers under them where the screws are.

Raise them off the game 1/8"

Or get another set and double them up, (probably better and longer lasting, washers tend to crush into the wood over time).

Get longer screws if necessary.

I wish the decals weren't placed so close to the leg protectors or the leg protectors were more well judged in the first place rather than all these home remedies.