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(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You can run, but you can't hide, bitch.


By TheNoTrashCougar

10 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,780 posts
  • 411 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 minutes ago by rai
  • Topic is favorited by 248 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

45 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6780 posts in this topic. You are on page 135 of 136.
#6701 3 days ago
Quoted from Palmer:

I don’t know how you qualify pickle Rick. I seem to see it more when I jump a few portals in a row. I did notice that if you hit the mystery shot when pickle rick is qualified, it will start it without having to hit the garage shot.

Lit like any other adventure, it just can’t be the first adventure (garage is more difficult a shot).

#6702 3 days ago

Game froze on me today. I was having a good game too. Got into the scoop for multiball and double hit the flippers immediately. Game released one ball, allowed me to play on for a few seconds with the other ball locked and 3rd ball in scoop, even though the multiball intro was still playing, then the game restarted.

epthegeek

lastest code.

#6703 3 days ago
Quoted from MEuRaH:

Game froze on me today. I was having a good game too. Got into the scoop for multiball and double hit the flippers immediately. Game released one ball, allowed me to play on for a few seconds with the other ball locked and 3rd ball in scoop, even though the multiball intro was still playing, then the game restarted.
epthegeek
lastest code.

Send me a log, he says as always.

/“crash” not “freeze”. Very different things.

#6704 3 days ago

1. My left in/out lane lights.
2. Dimension reentry arrow.
3. Slam arrow.
4. Bottom left morty card light.
5. In/out lane GI lights.
6. All left GI lights up side 4 under the big left plastic, and 3 under left ramp.
Are all out.

Message from the underlit Freeeek Kingdom.

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#6705 3 days ago

Scratch all that,
The light driver board, in the center of playfield, above the opto board is wonky.
We got it to light, by pressing on the power connector but it wont stay on, or sych colors.

And of course there are a zillion wires in the way. Shit.

Fear and Loathing Benecio Del Toro (resized).png

#6706 3 days ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Send me a log, he says as always.
/“crash” not “freeze”. Very different things.

It definitely didn't freeze. It crashed. I've had mine freeze before and this wasn't it.

I don't have a log as my game is at an on-site location, and I don't carry a flash drive with me. I should start doing that.

#6707 3 days ago

.
It's unfortunate when you spend all this money on a new machine and have to do stuff like this. Stern switched to plastic brackets likely as cost savings however the added benefit is they are thicker then the metal ones. I feel bad for the newbies who never purchased NIB before and don't know any better.

Yes,isn,t it!!!

#6708 3 days ago

The PD-LED needs a tight connection on the 5V power. Simply spread the 2 pins on the board power connector slightly to get the connector plug to connect tighter and this will fix your issue.

Quoted from gonzo73:

Scratch all that,
The light driver board, in the center of playfield, above the opto board is wonky.
We got it to light, by pressing on the power connector but it wont stay on, or sych colors.
And of course there are a zillion wires in the way. Shit.
[quoted image]

#6709 3 days ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

The PD-LED needs a tight connection on the 5V power. Simply spread the 2 pins on the board power connector slightly to get the connector plug to connect tighter and this will fix your issue.

Good tip! Too much White Claw in the Freeeeeeak Kingdom.

24
#6710 3 days ago

Just so everyone knows... we are having our supplier check on the legs being slightly more narrow. No idea why they would be, but we'll find out. Pretty sure these are all stamped on 1 machine for all pinball companies. None of us own a giant leg stamper.

#6711 2 days ago
Quoted from MEuRaH:

It definitely didn't freeze. It crashed. I've had mine freeze before and this wasn't it.
I don't have a log as my game is at an on-site location, and I don't carry a flash drive with me. I should start doing that.

Also can you report back exact version of the code you have when you plug in the stick. There’s a bunch of latest versions floating arond.

#6712 2 days ago

Checked the legs on mine today, they are fine, about 1mm gap off the decals. I'm a low number, 20.

#6713 2 days ago
Quoted from Flipper-airbrush:

pictures without and with light. I love it.
And a little video
[quoted image][quoted image]

Why is “Balls” capitalized? After lower case “my”, it makes it looks like “Balls Axl” and “Balls Thanos” are a person’s name.

Should have at least had a comma. “Lick my balls, Axl”

#6714 2 days ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Why is “Balls” capitalized? After lower case “my”, it makes it looks like “Balls Axl” and “Balls Thanos” are a person’s name.
Should have at least had a comma. “Lick my balls, Axl”

Using the King’s English it should of been ...

Lick my balls

<insert grill>

Axl

#6715 2 days ago

#237 arrived today after an absolutely horrible experience w/ R&L Carriers. They “forgot” to put it on the truck on Thursday and Friday, and it finally showed up at 7am this morning (Saturday). I’ll never use them for shipping a pin in the future.

Handful of issues that I’m going to be working my way through - many of these have been reported by others.

- Right flipper button has issues. Top flipper engages first, followed by the bottom one, so I’m guessing the wires are backwards on the dual leafs. The bottom one also doesn’t engage reliably.
- Ridiculous levels of bass. I’ve dialed the sub volume just a hair over completely off (counter clockwise). Seems like it is way too sensitive to the tiniest adjustment. I will need some kind of anti rattle tape for sure.
- Shaker motor is also way too strong, so I’ll open it up and tweak the angle between the weights.
- Getting quite a few air balls on the right ramp. Does it need some kind of shield/protector there? Maybe flipper strength should be dialed down.
- Looks like I’m having the cab decal issue around the legs that others have reported recently. I’m going to either add an additional protector, or some washers/shims. This is more than a little annoying, and makes me not want to play it until I figure out a solution.

Glad to finally have my machine, but wish it were a bit more “ready to play” out of the box.

#6716 2 days ago
Quoted from Kiwipinz:

Has anyone had issues with the right turnaround not registering shots? I've gone though switch test and it seems fine but when I use a ball to test it doesn't seem to be hitting the second switch properly to register going round the loop, which means collecting megaseeds and meeseeks is super hard on that shot.
I've tried repositioning the switch but there isn't much give, and its still (intermittently) not registering.
Any advice is appreciated.[quoted image]

I just ran into another game where I hit this shot twice and the megaseed on it didn't collect. I did see the loop light get triggered, so I grabbed the audit logs off the game and will send those along to epthegeek.

#6717 2 days ago

Shots to the loop back are registered by the switch on the right. Just make sure your switch activates ok with the ball.

#6718 2 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

My game has this damage as well, cutting by the protector isn't going to help much as the damage is from the leg, well outside of the protector.
In my case the game was being played and the legs worked a little loose, allowing the leg to dig into the decal.
even after tightening the legs, they still were pretty much right against the decal, that's not really right.
Its almost as if the leg bends around the protector and into the cabinet, making the metal shim protector basically useless.
I put some of the plastic "slightly larger than the leg" type protectors on and called it a day, mine is a route game anyway.
but I would recommend that people keep the leg bolts tight, and inspect the gap between the leg and cabinet. and you may need to add more protection to be safe.

Yeah it is definitely more about the way the top flange of the leg is formed. I've found it varies quite a bit. It's like some legs are "over-formed" or something. The mounting face forming overall less than 90 degrees, meaning the outer edges project toward the cabinet. When pressing, the same dies can give a different result depending on a few factors, one being material, another being tonnage (or force). More force or less springy material will affect the "set" or the amount of "spring back". If the cabinet protector standoffs were slightly larger all would be fine, one solution.

Example, 1 out of 4 of my TNA legs touches the cabinet no matter where I bolt it on. All other legs there is about 1mm gap at minimum, both sides.

It just means I put that leg on the back, so that it rubs on the rear cabinet face. Just a slightly off kilter pressing, slightly out of tolerance in some way.

Larger leg protector standoffs would be the practical fix, I would rekon.

I don't like the artwork cut away around the leg outline. Same with playfields incidentally, and deleted art around posts etc. , because everyone can't achieve as good as we could 30 years ago, apparently.

#6719 2 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Very similar to the issue I had on the back legs for Dialed In. I just put two nylon washers between the inside leg and the metal standoff and that moved it out enough to stop the contact with the cabinet. Short of a leg redesign, a thicker metal standoff would also take care of this.

More surface area hey? ... a little larger footprint so standoff comes closer to edges of legs.

#6720 2 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Well they should be fine in this case so long as the metal guard under them prevents the plastic guard from hitting the decal at all.

Problem being that the over formed leg would still flex the plastic inward, to a collision course with the cabinet decal just the same They are bigger than leg outline so could be even worse..

#6721 2 days ago
Quoted from o-din:

But...it's so hard...

"THAT's what SHE said!"

-4
#6722 2 days ago

Well,I don't have to say anything anymore, the last hundred posts say it for me! Don't they!!!!

#6723 2 days ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Well,I don't have to say anything anymore, the last hundred posts say it for me! Don't they!!!!

JJP and Stern legs are same story, variability, some legs still get into the cabinet despite the standoffs.

If the standoffs from the supplier extended say 5mm more all the way around, it wouldn't be a problem.

If we needed a canary in a cage for minor pinball issues, you're a prime candidate!!

Try raising minor issues like this in a stern thread, and see if anything pro active ever comes about there!

#6724 2 days ago

One thing is for sure, newer machine legs are thinner and way more flexible than old legs. Just another 'modern perk' of manufacturing things cheaper.

16
#6725 2 days ago

Well...after several weeks and several mistakes, I have finalized the design. If interested, the mod will be available on the PinballLife website sometime in the the next week or so. I chose to distribute through them as it creates the least amount of work for me.

Many thanks to all the Pinsiders that provided comments and support throughout this process. What a great community we have here! Enjoy.

Link to instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M99yqI-EcPWj1QbXQwtzAMZ-CoG1uaATHaIPvZC7L3Y/edit?usp=sharing
20201018_100715 (resized).jpg
Note: the mod is always lit blue but combined with the playfield light show, it appears to turn colors.
20201018_102709 (resized).jpg

#6726 1 day ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well...after several weeks and several mistakes, I have finalized the design. If interested, the mod will be available on the PinballLife website sometime in the the next week or so. I chose to distribute through them as it creates the least amount of work for me.
Many thanks to all the Pinsiders that provided comments and support throughout this process. What a great community we have here! Enjoy.
Link to instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M99yqI-EcPWj1QbXQwtzAMZ-CoG1uaATHaIPvZC7L3Y/edit?usp=sharing
[quoted image]
Note: the mod is always lit blue but combined with the playfield light show, it appears to turn colors.
[quoted image]

very nice!

Can we see a picture of it zoomed out with the rest of the play field in the photo, please?

perfect timing... I need to put an order into PL anyway!

#6727 1 day ago
Quoted from rmarmol1:

very nice!
Can we see a picture of it zoomed out with the rest of the play field in the photo, please?
perfect timing... I need to put an order into PL anyway!

20201018_105257 (resized).jpg
#6728 1 day ago
Quoted from xfassa:

[quoted image]

Looks amazing!

Nice work!!!

Maybe, post a link once its a available on PBL? (if that's allowed)

#6729 1 day ago
Quoted from xfassa:

[quoted image]

Looks great. I wanted in on this from the beginning. What's the price? (I don't see it yet on the pinball life site... and, of course, I just placed an order with them yesterday )

#6730 1 day ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Shots to the loop back are registered by the switch on the right. Just make sure your switch activates ok with the ball.

I've noticed the same issue on my machine. What is the fix for this? The switch activates in test but not in gameplay unless the ball is moving very slowly. Thanks.

#6731 1 day ago
Quoted from gac:

Looks great. I wanted in on this from the beginning. What's the price? (I don't see it yet on the pinball life site... and, of course, I just placed an order with them yesterday )

Thanks for the kind comments. The mod will be $50.

#6732 1 day ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

- Right flipper button has issues. Top flipper engages first, followed by the bottom one, so I’m guessing the wires are backwards on the dual leafs. The bottom one also doesn’t engage reliably.

I had same issue. Was not wired backwards. The space between the contacts had to be adjusted to make sure the lower flipper fired before (or at same time) the upper flipper and on a consistent basis. I adjusted the gap between the contacts and it has been good since (knock on wood).

#6733 1 day ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Thanks for the kind comments. The mod will be $50.

$50 bucks for that!!!


EA652DED-7158-4115-B357-D684346E8093 (resized).jpeg

#6734 1 day ago

Well.....after several games with the new mod installed, I can confirm it will not help improve your scores. I am still a terrible player.
20201018_113502 (resized).jpg

#6735 1 day ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well.....after several games with the new mod installed, I can confirm it will not help improve your scores. I am still a terrible player.
[quoted image]

Maybe you installed it incorrectly

#6736 1 day ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well.....after several games with the new mod installed, I can confirm it will not help improve your scores. I am still a terrible player.
[quoted image]

And you're missing a ramp screw.

#6737 1 day ago
Quoted from schwarz:

And you're missing a ramp screw.

That alone could cost you 10,000,000 points.

#6738 1 day ago
Quoted from schwarz:

And you're missing a ramp screw.

Good eye. Actually. There is a screw missing from each ramp. I only put one screw in the ramps when I am constantly swapping the parts in and out. I will get them installed soon. Thanks!

#6739 1 day ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

#237 arrived today after an absolutely horrible experience w/ R&L Carriers. They “forgot” to put it on the truck on Thursday and Friday, and it finally showed up at 7am this morning (Saturday). I’ll never use them for shipping a pin in the future.
Handful of issues that I’m going to be working my way through - many of these have been reported by others.
- Right flipper button has issues. Top flipper engages first, followed by the bottom one, so I’m guessing the wires are backwards on the dual leafs. The bottom one also doesn’t engage reliably.
- Ridiculous levels of bass. I’ve dialed the sub volume just a hair over completely off (counter clockwise). Seems like it is way too sensitive to the tiniest adjustment. I will need some kind of anti rattle tape for sure.
- Shaker motor is also way too strong, so I’ll open it up and tweak the angle between the weights.
- Getting quite a few air balls on the right ramp. Does it need some kind of shield/protector there? Maybe flipper strength should be dialed down.
- Looks like I’m having the cab decal issue around the legs that others have reported recently. I’m going to either add an additional protector, or some washers/shims. This is more than a little annoying, and makes me not want to play it until I figure out a solution.
Glad to finally have my machine, but wish it were a bit more “ready to play” out of the box.

I believe there's three power settings for shaker, don't go changing weights until go through settings.

#6740 1 day ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Well,I don't have to say anything anymore, the last hundred posts say it for me! Don't they!!!!

Make sure this guy's coindoor lock is extra-tight, seems like he's hard to please...

#6741 1 day ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Well,I don't have to say anything anymore...

That is fantastic news, thanks for the update!

#6742 1 day ago

Holy crap, getting R&M next week, what should I do to protect the decal from the legs??

#6743 1 day ago
Quoted from rai:

Holy crap, getting R&M next week, what should I do to protect the decal from the legs??

Buy the felt protectors from PinballLife. All my JJPs come with them from the factory, I bought a set for RM and it left with zero damage.

#6744 1 day ago
Quoted from rai:

Holy crap, getting R&M next week, what should I do to protect the decal from the legs??

I haven’t tried the nylon washer suggestion yet, but that and the felt is what I’m going to try. Just make sure when you install your legs there is space between the leg and the cab.

#6745 1 day ago

I just turned up the lower right and upper right flippers on my game (40 and 25 respectively) and increased the lower right hold power to high as I was getting a lot of dips when the scoop kicked out. First game after making the adjustments was the best I’ve had.

620AE2AF-2F8E-41B6-ADA3-1A8DD6097616 (resized).jpeg
#6746 1 day ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

I just turned up the lower right and upper right flippers on my game (40 and 25 respectively) and increased the lower right hold power to high as I was getting a lot of dips when the scoop kicked out. First game after making the adjustments was the best I’ve had.
[quoted image]

Is there any reason not to put the hold strength to high?

#6747 1 day ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Is there any reason not to put the hold strength to high?

Keeps the flipper from collapsing during play.

#6748 1 day ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Is there any reason not to put the hold strength to high?

You’d have to ask spookyluke or someone more knowledgeable than myself on that one. At first I was thinking the EOS switch needed adjusted by decided to try this first when I saw the option.

#6749 1 day ago
Quoted from rai:

Holy crap, getting R&M next week, what should I do to protect the decal from the legs??

Pull off the metal protectors.
Place fender washers under them where the screws are.

Raise them off the game 1/8"

Or get another set and double them up, (probably better and longer lasting, washers tend to crush into the wood over time).

Get longer screws if necessary.

#6750 1 day ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pull off the metal protectors.
Place fender washers under them where the screws are.
Raise them off the game 1/8"
Or get another set and double them up, (probably better and longer lasting, washers tend to crush into the wood over time).
Get longer screws if necessary.

I wish the decals weren't placed so close to the leg protectors or the leg protectors were more well judged in the first place rather than all these home remedies.

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