The Avengers (Premium/LE)
Stern, 2012
The Avengers (Pro)
Stern, 2012There have been 9 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).
Quoted from RobKnapp:
Its an Idea. But the switches are all bent to hell form me tweeking them . I did order a pinballlife leaf switch tool. I get tem really sensitive /close together and 8 games later they are not responsive . Maybe it is the rubber ?
Do you have your coil power set at maximum? It's in the settings.
Quoted from shock_me:
The Smash standup target behind Hulk.
That is you must hit the stand up targets down and the pinball must hit the pushplate switch in front of HULK figure. If so HULK will raise his arms up for a short time exposing the Smash target behind HULK on the left.
Do you have your coil power set at maximum? It's in the settings.
No I set coil settings on all my STERN to HARD (maximum) . But on The AVENGERS I have them on soft as advised in some other Thread about to many air balls. What do you recommend ??
Its an Idea. But the switches are all bent to hell form me tweeking them . I did order a pinballlife leaf switch tool. I get tem really sensitive /close together and 8 games later they are not responsive . Maybe it is the rubber ?
The 2 1/2" sling rubbers are too sloppy put some 2" on there.
No I set coil settings on all my STERN to HARD (maximum) . But on The Avengers I have them on soft as advised in some other Thread about to many air balls. What do you recommend ??
Mine are set to Hard but I don't remember if the sling will fire the ball at the THOR targets or not. I'll pay closer attention next time I play. I don't get air balls btw with this setting.
Took my soft Saturn rings off today in favor of new black rubber, like what the game shipped with. Games plays better. Doesn't look as cool of course, but plays better. I was getting a lot of airballs that I think were due in part to the backspin those shot rubbers were putting on the ball. I'm also positive they made hitting the BW ramp harder.
I'm heading for BFE again now. I can feel it! AVLE haters can suck it! This game rocks.
The Vs. Mode is were I get confused . There is some info on DMD but I have a hard time understanding who to attack. Example Thor Vs. Iron Man . Do I try to hit THOR And Iron Man or do I focus on just one of them.
What I noticed about the VS modes is that they follow the movie exactly. I'm pretty sure in Iron Man vs Thor you basically go back and forth hitting iron man and thor, then only iron man or thor depending on which one is lit and then at the end, it's just like the movie, you have to hit the captain america shot to break up the fight.
Any suggestions on the launch? Mine seems to randomly not go all the way to the top on auto launches...
If that is not an issue, then you can try to bend the tabs of the auto launcher if they are not well aligned with the ball and trough.
I have tweaked the auto launcher and manual plunger and will still get random bad plunges. The trough design is iffy and finicky. Others have tried to add plastics to better guide and deflect the ball to go straight.
Make sure the ball plunger hits the center of the ball itself for the manual plunge.
You can loosen the three screws from the inside of the cab and scoot it left and right a little.
The auto plunge is a little more tricky but you can "tweak" the prongs to be sure they contact the ball properly.
I don't have issues with mine but I have a chrome shooter which has a heavier spring.
Quoted from RDReynolds:
Sounds like there's no real good way to ensure proper launches on the machine then? How weird.
Yes there is.
Stabilize the ramp.
Take the side to side play out of the autolauncher forks at the pivot.
Tweak the forks in the shooter lane.
Make sure the ball rests centered in the forks and is not resting on the plunger tip.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-tweaks-have-you-done-to-hulk-le
The Vs. Mode is were I get confused . There is some info on DMD but I have a hard time understanding who to attack. Example Thor Vs. Iron Man . Do I try to hit THOR And Iron Man or do I focus on just one of them.
Look at the insert lights. For a while both are lit and you hit both...after a buncha hits, it starts to alternate.
As for the sling issues - here is the problem. It's design. Look at the holes that the switches are sticking out of...they are different than most Stern sling switch holes. The usually have a lot of space behind the switch...but not on Avengers for some reason ...so the switch hits the wood and bends back. My best solution so far has been the transparent 2 inch rubbers from Pinball Life. They still get bent a bit...but not nearly as bad as with regular rubber.
Don't bother with the coil settings...that won't affect your slings . There should be an update coming with sling power adjustments like on ST and Metallica.
I thought that Stern said flat out no more Avengers updates? Would be very glad to be wrong on that...
Quoted from Rarehero:
They never said that. They said there are "currently no plans" ....that's not a "no".
OPTIMISM~!
I like it. 
Quoted from tbanthony:
Got to buy an LE then you get a manual for only $2,000 more!
Is there really no manual for this game online?
Is there really no manual for this game online?
My year old Avengers LE was bending the sling leaf switches. New 2 1/2" rubbers from PBL solved that!
I still get the 555 bulbs popping out of the sling sockets, going to hot glue them with a small dab of glue.
I adjusted the auto shooter and plunger to align properly. Took lots of messing around. This adjustment along with stabilizing the ramp using Tracelifter's instructions fixed the shooter lane, I get 95% going all the way to the top until I replaced the shooter tip. Now if I manually plunge too hard, the ball goes airborn and hits the Hawkeye ramp!
Moved Loki Lock plastic one screw FORWARD (towards the player) to open up the Fury target. Moving it back like many have done just made him a target for launched balls. In the forward position with a 3/8" spacer under the metal tab and him bent backwards to clear the glass. Now I can see Fury target glowing and he never gets hit by the ball launching.
Replaced the double LEDs in the Loki plastic with single SMD green LEDs. The single point of light for each looks better to me.
Added LED flashers to all locations, including back board. The CA flasher between the pops looks really great in pure white! The Red Flex head flasher behind the Fury target looks much better than the washed out colored 906 bulb. The flash of the LED flashers can be blinding until you get used to it. I had to put flasher power to low but it is still pretty intense.
Adjusted the Hulk switch really low and with a hair trigger. Used to get stuck balls 2-3 times per game. Now I get them once every 3-4 games. They are fixed easily with a ball search.
Had to drop the Hulk magnet 1/4 turn to make it flush.
Adjusted the BW spinner switch to be a hair trigger and lubed the spinner shaft in it's mount.
Adjusted the first BW ramp plastic to be 3 washers higher (this REALLY makes a big difference on the smoothness of BW shots!).
Installed DMD glare guard film that eliminated the reflection of the DMD in the glass.
Added a Polk 10" subwoofer. That really makes the Hulk smashes HIT HARD! Very cool mod for around $100.
Next up:
Getting some large shrink wrap to eliminate the silver reflectors on the Hulk lights (with LED GI and flasher, the reflector isn't needed).
Install Avery laminating sheets (easily removable plastic protection similar to Mylar) to high wear areas of the PF like the landing spots above the pops, ball drop spots, etc
Install Moleskin foam in the Hulk saucer to reduce bounce outs.
Full shop job with all new rubbers and posts. I bet the parts installed are are most likely factory stock and could use replacing.
Quoted from Schwaggs:
Install Moleskin foam in the Hulk saucer to reduce bounce outs
Would you mind posting a photo of the Moleskin in the Hulk saucer.
At what angel did you point the flex Red flasher behind the Fury target. Thanks, Rob
100_0173.JPG
100_0180.JPGQuoted from HOOKED:
You really need my mod to fix this area....just look at what your missing.
If you don't want the full kit with the figure just the new replacement LOKI lock step plastic is plug in and play ready.
You really need my mod to fix this area....just look at what your missing.
I've got your mod, it rocks! I used Purple LEDs, though....Green is Hulk's color.
.....
Adjusted the Hulk switch really low and with a hair trigger. Used to get stuck balls 2-3 times per game. Now I get them once every 3-4 games. They are fixed easily with a ball search.
....
Try this as well.... easy fix that eliminated 90% of my stuck balls by raising Hulks arms a bit
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hulk-avengers-ball-hang-up-fix#post-1498474
Would you mind posting a photo of the Moleskin in the Hulk saucer.
At what angel did you point the flex Red flasher behind the Fury target. Thanks, Rob
I have not installed the moleskin mod yet but saw somewhere else that someone recommended that. When I first got my machine, the ball never fell out of the saucer but lately it started doing this when dropped from the BW ramp even with the factory mod installed.
For the flasher, I removed the socket from below and installed the flasher from there. I slightly twisted the flasher face to point directly at the Fury target from behind. It provides an awesome, pure red glow vs the washed out glow of the colored incandescent!
I tried a tweak over the weekend with great results. I added a typical metal washer, along with the stock black plastic washer under each screw that holds the Black Widow spinner to the BW ramp. This raised the spinner slightly reducing the ball impact on the spinner.
The spinner still spins normally but the ball has more momentum to make it to the end of the ramp!
Worked like a charm for me!
I recently picked up a HUO Hulk LE. The good news is that it is like brand new... the bad news, is that is like brand new. Still has the original software and none of the tweaks needed to make the game work well. After dialing in the shooter rod, updating software, and various adjustments, I ordered the update kit from Stern. Looking at the replacement plastic with the two spikes that goes behind the Hulk, I can see no way that this piece is not going to break.
For those that wonder what the modification is about, apparently when the Hulk slings the ball against the rubber just to the side of this left arm, the ball can get forced under the plastic and end up resting against the bridge arm support. When the ball search feature kicks in and the bridge is raised, this opens up enough room that the ball falls into the hole and TWACK... that awful sound of the ball hitting the bottom of the inside of the cabinet. Not cool.
The purpose of spikes are to prevent the ball from getting into that space. The problem is, the plastic piece is not strong enough and not supported well enough to do this... it just breaks.
To address this problem, I made a metal support that goes under the plastic that ties into the support posts for the plastic on the other side of the bridge support. PETG might work, but this is thinner and much stronger. (We are dealing with the Hulk here).
I bent a lip on the side towards the Hulk and then at the rear hanging over the back metal ball guide to give extra stiffness. It worked out quite well!
Quoted from Sheprd:
To address this problem, I made a metal support that goes under the plastic that ties into the support posts for the plastic on the other side of the bridge support. PETG might work, but this is thinner and much stronger. (We are dealing with the Hulk here).
I bent a lip on the side towards the Hulk and then at the rear hanging over the back metal ball guide to give extra stiffness. It worked out quite well!
Cool! Wanna make me one? If not, maybe you can send the plans to Cliffy and he can make some... 
The spikes are not the reason the plastic breaks. The originally shipped games were having that Hulk plastic broken and also the occasional ball falling into the cabinet because the spikes were not there.
The breakage is from the ball being forced into the side of the plastic by the flailing Hulk arm and then the torque breaks the plastic around the screw in the above diagram.
Quoted from DCFAN:
The spikes are not the reason the plastic breaks. The originally shipped games were having that Hulk plastic broken and also the occasional ball falling into the cabinet because the spikes were not there.
The breakage is from the ball being forced into the side of the plastic by the flailing Hulk arm and then the torque breaks the plastic around the screw in the above diagram.
Certainly hulk hitting the side with his arm or forcing the ball against the edge of the plastic could break the plastic as well. Any force applied to the area in the diagram is going to put too much stress on the plastic at the point that they are breaking. That is why I put a lip on the metal edge to provide a little more rigidity. There are a few more places in this game that seem very poorly supported as compared to older games. Cost savings I guess...
We should start a poll... if Cliffy made a protector available, who would buy one?
Certainly hulk hitting the side with his arm or forcing the ball against the edge of the plastic could break the plastic as well. Any force applied to the area in the diagram is going to put too much stress on the plastic at the point that they are breaking. That is why I put a lip on the metal edge to provide a little more rigidity. There are a few more places in this game that seem very poorly supported as compared to older games. Cost savings I guess...
We should start a poll... if Cliffy made a protector available, who would buy one?
I cut a plastic protector out of lexan with a jigsaw for my game. I did that for all the plastics I thought might be more likely to break.
Quoted from thebitz1:
need some help getting a replacement spring for the loki locking post - the lock post will not stay up and the ball simply slides down to the flipper. Any ideas where I can get this and what is the actual part name?
Thanks!
Page B9 of the manual
Conical Spring - Part number 266-5020-00
I recently picked up a HUO Hulk LE. The good news is that it is like brand new... the bad news, is that is like brand new. Still has the original software and none of the tweaks needed to make the game work well. After dialing in the shooter rod, updating software, and various adjustments, I ordered the update kit from Stern. Looking at the replacement plastic with the two spikes that goes behind the Hulk, I can see no way that this piece is not going to break.
For those that wonder what the modification is about, apparently when the Hulk slings the ball against the rubber just to the side of this left arm, the ball can get forced under the plastic and end up resting against the bridge arm support. When the ball search feature kicks in and the bridge is raised, this opens up enough room that the ball falls into the hole and TWACK... that awful sound of the ball hitting the bottom of the inside of the cabinet. Not cool.
The purpose of spikes are to prevent the ball from getting into that space. The problem is, the plastic piece is not strong enough and not supported well enough to do this... it just breaks.
plastic.JPG
To address this problem, I made a metal support that goes under the plastic that ties into the support posts for the plastic on the other side of the bridge support. PETG might work, but this is thinner and much stronger. (We are dealing with the Hulk here).
I bent a lip on the side towards the Hulk and then at the rear hanging over the back metal ball guide to give extra stiffness. It worked out quite well!
DSC_6020.JPGDSC_6019.JPG
To make the part:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/all-hulk-get-is-tilt-avengers-club/page/11#post-2740721
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