#47 of 250
Quoted from nocreditdot:If you LE guys don't mind, what's your game number? Let's see how many of the 150 are represented here in the club. Mine is number 132.
Mike
121
Quoted from J85M:Right guys I had these ideas when I had my original Avatar LE, I'll soon be rebuilding my collection hopefully in the next couple of months and an Avatar is top of my list to get back as soon as I can. I enquired with Matt at back alley a couple years ago about this but he was mega busy at the time and Hes even busier than ever now.
I've found a sculptor here in the UK through another project who can hopefully do the mod, what I want to know is if any other Avatar owners would be interested depending on costs obviously which I don't know as of yet but if I can give a rough idea of potential number it may help me drive down the final price.
The mod itself is to make the pop bumpers feel more integrated into the theme, they always felt a little lacklustre to me, my plan is to get sculpts/models made of the flowers from the film and shown on the DMD and hopefully have them able to bounce as the bumpers fire.
what we see in the DMD when in the popsand just for reference images from the film of the flowers, Ideally they would bounce when bumpers fire, don't think I could get them to shrink and regrow but bouncing is pretty close. Should also look pretty cool once the colourdmd for avatar is eventually released to have the DMD and playfield tied together more.
So what do you guys think? It's something I will do for myself but thought I would offer it out to anyone else interested.
It's an interesting idea but I'd have to see them on a game.. I spiffed mine up by putting 3 different color mini domes on mine. I thing they look great. People who don't know the game think they came from the factory like that.
Hey guys, Hooked has LE style chrome aprons again, I got one with the blue windows from his last run a year or so ago and it finishes the chrome job Stern started on the LE. Starting at $260. You can reuse your stickers if you wish.
How do you get the stickers off the old apron without tearing them up? I have the chrome apron just haven't installed it.
Quoted from bonanza:How do you get the stickers off the old apron without tearing them up? I have the chrome apron just haven't installed it.
If you have a plastic apron, they should just lift off very easily, use a blunt knife or anything with a rounded edge to lift then slightly and once they start to lift they should come off easily and in perfect condition and just put them straight down on new apron.
Quoted from J85M:blunt nice
I think you meant knife. Yes that works nice, just to be sure I warmed mine with a hair drier on low.
Quoted from bonanza:How do you get the stickers off the old apron without tearing them up? I have the chrome apron just haven't installed it.
Does yours have the blue windows? Comets BIG flat flashers really wake you up. When wiping it off make sure you use a micro fiber cloth.
Yes a blunt knife is a lot more efficient than a blunt nice, it will take you ages using one of those
The chrome apron came uninstalled when I bought my machine from MNhotrod and it has the cutouts for the blue windows but I'd have to transfer the blue plastic from the old one to the chrome one. I kind of figured removing the stickers would be near impossible without mangling them so I haven't moved forward on that project.
Looks like I'll have to give it a try.
Oh you bought his, I played it at our Pinball BBQ and fell in love with the game and bought one shortly after. I just transfered the blue windows and stickers from my stock apron to my chrome one without a problem but I left the sticker around the blue plastics off.
I believe that means that there are 3 different multi balls at the link shot, one in succession of the others. Don't know if it's random or in that order. It takes more shots progressively to start another multiball. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
But does the game actually use those names then, on the display or in shout outs? Can't say I've ever noticed them before reading the names today on the card for the first time.
i'm happy to scan it and email if you want
couple of questions for my rules sheet:
1) in link MB, after the 15 shots you need to trap a ball in the link lane for a 3M SJ, then hit this trapped ball against a timer for a 6M DSJ, right? and if you miss the timer, the trapped ball gets released, so you have to try to tap it and hit it again i think. so ..... can these points be doubled/tripled? and can you score that SJ more than once, or is the second trap unpaid? cos if you rewarded each time, you could time it out, let it fall, and score a doubled or tripled 3M over and over i think? i could test this with the glass off, but maybe someone already knows this possible exploit.
edit: so i took the glass off and attempted to answer this for myself. i got the ball in the link lane and was awarded the SJ, and the doubler indeed worked. but i let it time out, and what happened next i wasn't expecting - instead of letting me try again to lock in there, i had to go back and shoot the 15 link jackpots again. ok, easy with glass off - but for some reason, 'victory laps' had been awarded and i couldn't progress. i couldn't get the ball to lock in the link lane any more, and couldn't get the link insert to flash, even after awarding myself every shot on the game multiple times. is this a bug/ is it not possible to get the link DSJ after you fail to hit the trapped ball? i was able to start and complete amp (flashing) but everything else was locked out as i was trapped in link victory laps.
2) to start final battle, you don't necessarily need to get all inserts flashing i don't think. so does this mean you don't actually need to complete all the modes? which ones can you not worry about finishing, or have i got that wrong? i'm reading the Pinball News writeup here http://www.pinballnews.com/games/avatar/index5b.html and it's in the bit where he first talks about final battle (about 3/4 of the way down the page). i think you don't need the navi SJ, what else?
Hi again you AVATARS !!,
Been over a week since my last visit-life gets in the way of anything close to daily..sometimes weeks before I can get here.
Have my nice pro game up and running like a champ-at least tonight anyway.Just feeling her out and making adjustments to my liking-added a couple little mods,setting a longer ball save time,reset hi scores,wiping it down,leveling,etc.,etc.
OK the purpose of this post is,can I buy and install a shaker motor with the pro code..just the way it is ?
Thanks Kirk in Colorado
Quoted from cooldan:guys, i'm nearly done with the rulesheet, but can anyone tell me what this thing on the rules card is about, for Link multiball: "advance towards one of three multiballs (VIPER WOLVES, THANATOR, LEONOPTERYX)"
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:I believe that means that there are 3 different multi balls at the link shot, one in succession of the others. Don't know if it's random or in that order. It takes more shots progressively to start another multiball. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
There is only one Link multiball unfortunately, those other descriptors aren't in the game. It's always just Link multiball and it just takes more hits to start it each time, nothing special.
Sounds like they had some other ideas for the rules but they just never made it in.
thanks akm, what about the other Q - which of the 'flashing requirements' are *not* essential for Final Battle?
I believe flashing means they are lit for the rest of the game vs lit modes that reset after each ball drains. Unless I'm mistaken inserts do not need to be lit for final battle; keep in mind I have never made it to final battle but I have been within 1 or two shots of final battle at least twice
Quoted from cooldan:thanks akm, what about the other Q - which of the 'flashing requirements' are *not* essential for Final Battle?
Nothing has to be flashing to get to the Final Battle.
There may be a software setting that can be set to require the modes to be completed to qualify the Final Battle, but on stock/default/factory settings, each insert just has to be lit, not flashing.
Having inserts flashing just makes it easier to get to the Final Battle, because if you drain, you won't have to start the mode again if it's already complete (flashing).
Bump from my post # 868-shaker motor on my Avatar Pro-all went like it was gonna be plug and play-not so for me-any help appreciated !!
Quoted from Half_Life:#47 of 250
Now that was a good looking machine .
I have chrome swap out aprons for anyone looking to jazz up there AV or AVLE.
With or without the blue aprons available.
hookedonpinball.com
Quoted from HOOKED:Now that was a good looking machine .
I have chrome swap out aprons for anyone looking to jazz up there AV or AVLE.
With or without the blue aprons available.
hookedonpinball.com
I love the way it looks on my LE.
The link behaviour is what it is... if you have locked a ball in link multiball (first superjackpot) but fail to hit it again within 10 seconds for the double super jackpot then it releases it and you have 'victory laps'. Not being able to go for superjackpot and the flashing link insert within that multiball. A little faulty code imho. That is whay I have set my link timer for superjackpot to 15secs instead of default 10.
Yes those scores can be doubled/tripled and very worth doing so!
Link only alternates between viperwolves and thanathor in animations. Unfortunately nothing more attached to this and no leonopteryx animations..
Well done Dan, even better than you BDK rule sheet, http://papa.org/wp-content/uploads/Batman-The-Dark-Knight-Rulesheet-English.pdf
top job.
Going to look at a pro tomorrow. All original (no mods). Looks like it's in pretty good shape but might have done some routing. It has the bill collector attached and it looks like the magnet has mushroomed and maybe even a small amount of playfield wear right by the magnet.
Fair price?
If routed and doesn't need many parts and the cab is nice I'd say 3000-3300, check the menu and see how many plays on it. Look at the star posts and see if there's any wax in the groves on them, if there is it means they have at least waxed it. Look at the underside of the pf inserts especially around the flipper coils and see how dirty they are, it's a good indicator of it being played a lot if they're dirty with coil dust. The pf wood in that area my be dirty with dust too so check that.
Question for the X multiplier inserts and LEDs used there. As you can see the inserts are a lighter green then the Banshee inserts which are a darker green. What have you guys used for lighting in those? Green, warm white, or cool white to clearly differentiate between the multipliers and Banshee? I'm thinking if you use green LEDs it may look too much like Banshee. Thanks.
I use Comet 2 SMD cool white clear dome in all the inserts, they make the facets of the inserts sparkle, if the undersides are clean of course like the new Stern games do. I got tired of the color bombed insert look.
Work will begin on the color dmd at the end of the month!!! Hopefully by years end we will have them!
Quoted from nocreditdot:Work will begin on the color dmd at the end of the month!!! Hopefully by years end we will have them!
That is great news!
Last I checked there was 57 of the 250 LEs listed by pinsiders in their collections.
Quoted from bonanza:That is great news!
Yup sure is.
Quoted from bonanza:Last I checked there was 57 of the 250 LEs listed by pinsiders in their collections.
You'd never know it by the number of posts in the club.
Back in the avatar club. Where can I get the spring fix. Was not sure if it's a Reg spring part used when stern issued the update
Quoted from billsfanmd:Back in the avatar club. Where can I get the spring fix. Was not sure if it's a Reg spring part used when stern issued the update
Hey welcome back, which one did ya get? You'd probably have to contact Stern for that spring. Hope they have some left.
I think your fine with out the spring, I tripled my rubbers around that bottom post where it exits the pops and that helped plus you need to learn how to nudge better. I took the spring out of mine and have not even thought once of putting back in.
So I embarked on an Avatar journey this weekend. My goal was to put down a playfield protector, put in some fluorescent green pinbit protectors, change rubbers (easy peasy), and change GI bulbs if needed (which I didn't since previous owner did LEDs).
So to do the playfield protector you have to take the vast majority of plastics off the play field and it is a bit of a pain in the butt. I tried to take lots of pictures, label things, put nuts and screws in bags, etc. There seems to be some people who love the playfield protectors and others who do not. At least in theory I think it is a good thing. After reassemble I can not tell that it plays any different as that was a critique by some. My take on the playfield protector is that if you are planning on disassembling the playfield anyway it would be the time to do it. I did not have any issues with the product. I'll have to see how it goes long term.
The pinbit protectors are a nice product and I really like the way the fluorescent green makes the blues of the game pop. Is it a bit over the top? Maybe but I am liking it. I only had two issues. First I have an LE which has the link/coffin that opens up and the piece that goes below the link/coffin does NOT take into account this fact. So I had to grind the piece on a lathe and eventually got it to fit. I did end up breaking the piece but as it is behind the link/coffin I wasn't too upset.
The second issue is with this same piece. There is a gate at the top left of the machine which is attached to the left most RDA lane plastic. Normally the tip of the plastic tucks under the gate. With the added thickness of the pinbit protector the gate will not screw down correctly. So I nipped off the corner of the protector and the game plastic and everything was right in the world.
When I took the ramp off I disconnected the flashers from under the playfield. One little trick I discovered was to thread the wire / connector back down through the playfield I used a soda straw and some painters tape to tape the connector to the straw and shove it back down the hole. The straw provided a semi stiff item to grab and the painters tape came off easy. It's what I had around and I felt I had to improvise to get it all back together.
Looks pretty good to me.
Here's a few pictures
Anybody have a correct rubber size and quantity replacement chart by chance? Definitely need to replace the sling rubbers so should I go with 2" or 2-1/2"? Thanks all!
Manual calls for 2" rubbers for the slings. There is another place you use a 2" ring so you will need 3.
Also yuriijos helped me notice that the manual calls for 38 x 7/16 Inch O.D. rings. This has got to be a misprint because there are not 38 places to put these things. I still have a bag full of them so best guess is you will be fine if you order 8 or those rings.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/avatar-club-open-to-owners-and-the-interested/page/18 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.