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(Topic ID: 245839)

Austin Powers Laser Cannon Coil will not fire - any help out there?


By wamonkey

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by wamonkey
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 1 year ago

Question - in test the magnet divertor to the laser works, the mechanism moves, the coil will not fire in test or in game play. I have checked all the fuses - all good, I have checked the wiring - all good, I have replaced the coil - still does not work, the fire button works (the sound can be heard on the fire).

Just does not fire. The MPU has no battery acid damage that I can see but I know the main ROM chip is right below where the battery holder is - can't say it never had a leaking battery but it looks super clean.

The wiring is not pinching or binding it all looks good.

Any tips or any help would be appreciated.

#2 1 year ago

Have you checked the plunger to make sure it moves freely in the coil sleeve? There is a test in the settings specifically for the laser, have you ran it with a ball in the cannon?

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Have you checked the plunger to make sure it moves freely in the coil sleeve? There is a test in the settings specifically for the laser, have you ran it with a ball in the cannon?

Yes I ran the Austin powers specific test for the laser even putting the ball in the cannon it would not fire, the plunger in the coil is free moving.

I kind of leaning toward a logic issue because the divertor does not que properly during game play but works in test. Just seems like some kind of mpu error. I don’t know why but everything looks good otherwise.

Still no luck to date - just won’t fire even though the fire button works.

#4 1 year ago

I had this problem with my AP and it turned out to be a cold solider joint on the fire button.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Question - in test the magnet divertor to the laser works, the mechanism moves, the coil will not fire in test or in game play. I have checked all the fuses - all good, I have checked the wiring - all good, I have replaced the coil - still does not work, the fire button works (the sound can be heard on the fire).
Just does not fire. The MPU has no battery acid damage that I can see but I know the main ROM chip is right below where the battery holder is - can't say it never had a leaking battery but it looks super clean.
The wiring is not pinching or binding it all looks good.
Any tips or any help would be appreciated.

Did you check the drive transistor that controls it? Sounds like it's blown. Test Q4 ("laser beam eject) on the board. You'll need a multimeter.

If you don't know how to test, read up on it here:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Driver_Transistor_.22Quick_Check.22

#6 1 year ago

I figured it may be a board issue - - I figured something had to be wrong with the logic that makes it fire.

Thanks -

Quoted from vireland:

Did you check the drive transistor that controls it? Sounds like it's blown. Test Q4 ("laser beam eject) on the board. You'll need a multimeter.
If you don't know how to test, read up on it here:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Driver_Transistor_.22Quick_Check.22

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I figured it may be a board issue - - I figured something had to be wrong with the logic that makes it fire.
Thanks -

Do you have a multimeter to test the transistor? They're dead simple to test and relatively easy and cheap to replace.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Do you have a multimeter to test the transistor? They're dead simple to test and relatively easy and cheap to replace.

Yes - I have all that I just hate doing board work just don’t want to damage a irreplaceable board, too hot burn a trace or something then I would be screwed. The board is not available anywhere.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Yes - I have all that I just hate doing board work just don’t want to damage a irreplaceable board, too hot burn a trace or something then I would be screwed. The board is not available anywhere.

If you have a temperature-controlled soldering iron, it'd be pretty hard to burn a trace, and even then it could be jumpered. First things first, though. Test the transistor to see if it's bad.

And the board you want is 520-5300-00. It's still available some places because Stern made a new batch last year. But you shouldn't have to do that. Transistors are a pretty common repair...

#10 1 year ago

I think I tested it right - looks like the transistor is bad. Used the pinwiki guide....

Thanks all -

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