Austin Powers
Stern, 2001Quoted from Chalkey:Joined the club today! Does anybody have a rom with the for real soul boss nova / AP theme, or do I need a $400 pinsound to make this happen?
I dont think anyone has figured out how to change the sounds for whitestar games yet. There is a lot of cool source music available from the Austin Powers movies so Pinsound would give you lots of options. Quality of the music itself would alos be much better via pinsound.
I agree that AP is a highly underrated game! Got mine back in Feb and still love it! Finally got everything to register points. Dr Evil has to be dialed in just right.
Can anybody tell me why the time machine sometimes throws it back at the flippers and sometimes lets it roll to the back? This is before the mode gets started. I feel like it used to do it every time and now it's throwing it back less and less. I've been slowly going through this one so I dont know if it's a switch I fixed or what. I got that opto going not too long ago, not sure if it's related.
Quoted from Chalkey:Can anybody tell me why the time machine sometimes throws it back at the flippers and sometimes lets it roll to the back? This is before the mode gets started. I feel like it used to do it every time and now it's throwing it back less and less. I've been slowly going through this one so I dont know if it's a switch I fixed or what. I got that opto going not too long ago, not sure if it's related.
Is it holding the ball momentarily before it kicks it back or lets it roll into the hole? In other words, is the magnet is working?
Yeah, the magnet works and the ball seems to go slowly back and forth and either get violently thrown forward or just drop. It seems like if it's hit hard / fast it throws it back but if it is a slower shot it rolls out the back.
Quoted from Chalkey:Yeah, the magnet works and the ball seems to go slowly back and forth and either get violently thrown forward or just drop. It seems like if it's hit hard / fast it throws it back but if it is a slower shot it rolls out the back.
Mine does the same. Yes my magnet works too. I tried cleaning the tube and it made no difference.
Quoted from Chalkey:Can anybody tell me why the time machine sometimes throws it back at the flippers and sometimes lets it roll to the back? This is before the mode gets started. I feel like it used to do it every time and now it's throwing it back less and less. I've been slowly going through this one so I dont know if it's a switch I fixed or what. I got that opto going not too long ago, not sure if it's related.
Normal AP operation. You know the magnet is working because that's what throws the ball towards the flippers and also drops it behind the time machine. It's the pulse length of the magnet and that is moving the ball either forward or back. There is no setting to change.
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:How come whenever I get the Fat Bastard multiball, I don’t hear any bagpipe music playing in the background but when I watch others playing on youtube, I hear bagpipes playing?
Do you have the latest ROM's installed?
Quoted from docquest:Do you have the latest ROM's installed?
I'm a newbie and can't update this old pin myself. I can do the newer ones with the USB keys, but how would I update a ROM on an old pin as such? Thanks.
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:I'm a newbie and can't update this old pin myself. I can do the newer ones with the USB keys, but how would I update a ROM on an old pin as such? Thanks.
When the game is turned on it should display the ROM version numbers it's running. The ROM's are physical chips on the pinball boards . The CPU ROM should also have a sticker on it indicating the version number. In the olden days if a pinball machine needed a code update you would need to get a new ROM chip from your distributor.
The last CPU code update for Austin Powers was version 3.02, the latest version of the DMD display code was 3.0. If you don't have the latest versions you need to replace your ROM chips to get the latest code. If you have a ROM burner you can download the latest code from Stern's website and burn them yourself. The simpler way is to just buy a pre-burned ROM chip from Marco and just replace the old chip with the new one. The ROM chips are in sockets so you can exchange them with the new ones without any soldering.
Here are links to the latest CPU and display ROM's. the other ROMS in the game don't need to be updated because they never went beyond their original 1.0 versions.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1061
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1062
Here's the change log showing the differences between the ROM versions.
Software Release 3.02
Date July 18, 2002
CPU ROM
apcpu.302 checksum $5DFF
* fixed code to stop recycling balls thru the trough if the top lanes
were not made.
Software Release 3.01
Date November 8, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.301 checksum $5DFF
* New dispatch edge routines should help do a better job
of knowing which edge they are really on and help fix
the missing coin problem.
Software Release 3.00
Date September 20, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.300 checksum $ACFF
Display ROM
apdsp-a.300 checksum $6A34
apdsp-f.300 checksum $23E6
apdsp-g.300 checksum $236A
apdsp-i.300 checksum $C176
* adjustment added to remove references in game to "Washington D.C."
Software Release 2.03
Date August 8, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.203 checksum $CDFF
* removed phrase from "family" settings
*************************
Software Release 2.02
Date August 2, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.202 checksum $D0FF
* New U.K. coin setting default, Hard/Easy rule settings reversed
Display ROM
ap_dispa.201 checksum $D6E3
* fixed aux. coil #3 "draw" bug
*************************
Software Release 2.01
Date July 26, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.201 checksum $C6FF
* pulse for stacked balls in trough fixed
*************************
Software Release 2.00
Date July 24, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.200 checksum $CAFF
Display ROM
apdisp-a.200 checksum $F31F
* all references to "Fat Bastard" removed from family settings (dot's & speech)
*************************
Software Release 1.04
Date July 23, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.104 checksum $02FF
* removed farting from family mode (which occurs only in ver 1.03)
* Run time machine longer after "catching and throwing" a ball
*************************
Software Release 1.03
Date June 29, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.103 checksum $02FF
* less farting
* Replay bug fixed that stopped awarding replays and instead awarded extra balls
*************************
Software Release 1.02
Date June 11, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.102 checksum $1CFF
* Corrected Replay code that lowered the desired match percentage
* MOJO hidden jackpot "A" register trashed bug corrected
*************************
Software Release 1.00
Date June 7, 2001
CPU ROM
apcpu.100 checksum $A5FF
Display ROM
apdisp-a.100 checksum $4096
Sound ROM's
apsndu7.100 checksum $DA7B
apsndu17.100 checksum $D2B9
apsndu21.100 checksum $9E75
apsndu36.100 checksum $51F3
apsndu37.100 checksum $0AE5
I'm a new Austin Powers owner and had a question for the group. Sometimes my time machine randomly stops spinning. If I go into diagnostics the ramp switch and opto's seem fine and the motor runs when I activate it. However every now and them the time machine won't turn on when the switch is activated or if it turns on its only for a short time. It's frustrating when that happens because if the ball is in the tube it needs to rotate long enough for the ball to fall through the hole. If it only rotates a small amount, it results in a stuck ball. This doesn't happen every game, just every now and than. Anyone else see something like this?
Also FYI,
Mike Meyers was interviewed on the Alec Baldwin show last week. Very good interview and he did mention an Austin Powers 4 may be our future with the movie focusing on Dr Evil's point of view.
Quoted from docquest:When the game is turned on it should display the ROM version numbers it's running. The ROM's are physical chips on the pinball boards . The CPU ROM should also have a sticker on it indicating the version number. In the olden days if a pinball machine needed a code update you would need to get a new ROM chip from your distributor.
The last CPU code update for Austin Powers was version 3.02, the latest version of the DMD display code was 3.0. If you don't have the latest versions you need to replace your ROM chips to get the latest code. If you have a ROM burner you can download the latest code from Stern's website and burn them yourself. The simpler way is to just buy a pre-burned ROM chip from Marco and just replace the old chip with the new one. The ROM chips are in sockets so you can exchange them with the new ones without any soldering.
Here are links to the latest CPU and display ROM's. the other ROMS in the game don't need to be updated because they never went beyond their original 1.0 versions.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1061
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1062
Here's the change log showing the differences between the ROM versions.
Thanks a lot, man! It's tough being a newbie on these boards, but it's nice to have to get some straight-forward useful responses like yours, much appreciated! Just made the ROM purchases and will try to change them myself when they arrive. Should do the trick!
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:e the ROM purchases and will try to change them myself when they arrive. Should do the trick!
FYI, if you've never replaced a ROM chip before, be very careful when prying it off. The little legs will bend and break easy. Also when installing the new chip, make sure you line up the slot on the chip. Hope this helps.
So I messed with the dancing austin again
I took everything a part and cleaned everything and put it back together and same result. He just doesnt spin like he use to. He is not hitting anything underneath and the spring has good tension. And other suggestions?
Quoted from bicyclenut:So I messed with my dancing Austin today. Putting more tension on the spring didn't do much. What really helped was taking it apart on the underside. It's really easy. I cleaned the nylon sleeve and it works much better. I also found that the pop bumper guard behind dancing austin was hitting him a little as he would spin. This caused it to spin in a jerky motion. Hope this helps
Is the geometry on everything square? If you disconnect the mech does he spin smoothly on his own?
I'm going to LED this thing. Interested to see what looks best on the inserts for the modes that are halfway between yellow and orange.
Anybody taken their mylar off? I'm thinking about doing this during my big playfield cleanup as it's torn in front of the austin scoop and looks like crud around the edges where there's a black outline.
Everything is square
Austin does spin smoothly when the mech is disconnected just not sure what the problem is here.
If he's spinning smoothly try approaching it from the other angle... does the plunger move smoothly in the sleeve? A lot of times loosening the coil stop, re-aligning and tightening can help if things are a hair off. If that's not it there might be drag in the linkage somewhere, or an actual coil power problem which I would think would be the least likely scenario.
Quoted from Chalkey:Is the geometry on everything square? If you disconnect the mech does he spin smoothly on his own?
I'm going to LED this thing. Interested to see what looks best on the inserts for the modes that are halfway between yellow and orange.
Anybody taken their mylar off? I'm thinking about doing this during my big playfield cleanup as it's torn in front of the austin scoop and looks like crud around the edges where there's a black outline.
Yes on the mylar removal. I used the duster spray and peeled very slowly. I like the bare field, but......a couple of numbers peeled up with the mylar!? Would not be a big issue, but they are not available for replacement doh!! I would be very hesitant about peeling another mylar. The glue left behind takes a lot of elbow grease to remove. I first tried the flour method and got nowhere. It took extra strength goo gone. Really think it over if you want to remove!
Quoted from corvettepinner:Yes on the mylar removal. I used the duster spray and peeled very slowly. I like the bare field, but......a couple of numbers peeled up with the mylar!? Would not be a big issue, but they are not available for replacement doh!! I would be very hesitant about peeling another mylar. The glue left behind takes a lot of elbow grease to remove. I first tried the flour method and got nowhere. It took extra strength goo gone. Really think it over if you want to remove!
I agree with you on this.
I recently removed the mylar on a Taxi pf. I tried every method i could find. Went real slow, cold and hot. In the end It still pulled some of the paint up. As corvettepinner states , it really leaves a mess behind. Pull it up only if you have to.
Quoted from bicyclenut:I agree with you on this.
I recently removed the mylar on a Taxi pf. I tried every method i could find. Went real slow, cold and hot. In the end It still pulled some of the paint up. As corvettepinner states , it really leaves a mess behind. Pull it up only if you have to.
Mylar removal makes me so nervous.
And it's different every time. My buddies sf no problems at all, it was easy. But when I had my bop I stopped right after I started cause I knew it would be toast, and had a feeling I wasn't going to hold on to it.
@gameover1173 have you taken a look from the top down for your Austin problem? Something topside may be causing friction on the spinner causing it to slow down.
Yes I have looked from topside too
Does everything look correct in my pic?
Quoted from Thrillhouse:@gameover1173 have you taken a look from the top down for your Austin problem? Something topside may be causing friction on the spinner causing it to slow down.
Quoted from gameover1173:Yes I have looked from topside too
Does everything look correct in my pic?
My game is on location but I should be down there tonite. I'll take a look and send some pics once I get there.
Here's a pic of mine, pretty much the same. I have some dried grease on the center pin but I think someone added that. Normally there's no need to grease metal/nylon contact. It looks like your spring has a little bit of slack, you may try shortening the run on it. Maybe try cleaning the side of the disk that makes contact with the micro switch. I would also look at the bushing set in the playfield between Austin and the disk to see if it's gummed up if you haven't already.
If any of you guys do end up pulling your mylar be sure to put a small patch or some frisket on the drill section of the playfield. When the scoop shoots the ball out it will eventually wear a divot into it. Every Austin I've seen on location has this wear in the same spot because of it. I'm surprised to hear that some playfields were mylared, mine definitely was not.
20181129_213238 (resized).jpgIn another week or two I'll be doing a pretty deep shop job on my AP. The mylar has a big tear in front of the austin scoop so I'm going to remove it with the freeze method. Anybody have any experience with this? I've done it before but never on a game this new or mylar this large. Also going to reform and cliffy the scoop which is a bit daunting due to the different bevels.
Quoted from Chalkey:In another week or two I'll be doing a pretty deep shop job on my AP. The mylar has a big tear in front of the austin scoop so I'm going to remove it with the freeze method. Anybody have any experience with this? I've done it before but never on a game this new or mylar this large. Also going to reform and cliffy the scoop which is a bit daunting due to the different bevels.
Please let us know how your mylar removal goes. I have the same issue with mine, the full playfield mylar has a big wear hole right in front of the Austin scoop. Although the mylar is worn through there the artwork is still intact. My plan was to remove the mylar and then put down a plastic protector. I'm hoping none of the artwork comes off with the mylar but if it does I could repaint or use small waterslide decals for the missing areas and they would be fully protected once the playfield protector is installed. Unfortunately I just missed the 20% sale the german protector guys had for new years.
Quoted from DougAUS11:Hi Austin Powers owners,
Just got an Austin for my collection and chasing the scoop plastic if anyone can help ? or even a scan possibly ?
Cheers Doug
I just posted a scan in your other thread but will add it here for others if they need it.
ap_scoop_300.jpgQuoted from docquest:I just posted a scan in your other thread but will add it here for others if they need it.[quoted image]
Thank you very much docquest.This will help complete my game.I just sent my side legs and armour to the chromers going to duplicate what a mate done here in Aus a few years back.
IMG_2355 (resized).jpgI got my AP at the Allentown show last year and still have a blast playing it. Too bad it doesn't get more love. What are the odds a color dmd will be released for it soon ... like this year? Any guesses??
Quoted from Chalkey:I don't know if anybody is working on the dots but with it being such a colorful game it would be awesome to have.
Absolutely! I would definitely be ordering one.
Quoted from Chalkey:In another week or two I'll be doing a pretty deep shop job on my AP. The mylar has a big tear in front of the austin scoop so I'm going to remove it with the freeze method. Anybody have any experience with this? I've done it before but never on a game this new or mylar this large.
Did you attempt your mylar removal yet? If so any advice to offer? I'm thinking about doing mine since it has a big wear spot in front of the scoop.
My Dr. Evil will sometimes come up late, and occasionally not at all. I assume this is the relay. I plan on reflowing the solder on it when I get a chance. Is it possible to clean the contacts inside the relay, or is there anything else I can do to help the problem?
Bonus shots of purple titans
20190218_100509.jpg20190218_100517.jpgQuoted from Chalkey:My Dr. Evil will sometimes come up late, and occasionally not at all. I assume this is the relay. I plan on reflowing the solder on it when I get a chance. Is it possible to clean the contacts inside the relay, or is there anything else I can do to help the problem?
I'm assuming you could clean the contacts just like you do on an EM game relay. But if rhe reflowing of the solder solved the issue I'd just leave it alone. Reflowing the solder seems to have fixed my time machine intermittenly not spinning issue.
That playfield protector you installed looks great, almost like glass! What technique did you go with for the adhesive removal?
Alcohol + flour. It took a l.o.n.g. time.
I did the freeze method for removing the mylar. Lessons learned:
If you put just the lip of the playfield over the lockdown hardware it will sit flat and keep the liquid where you want it. Also, take your time and wait for the freeze action to make the mylar "pop up" on it's own or you'll risk losing clear.
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