(Topic ID: 163511)

(ATX) First pin: 1966 Central Park (pics, vid and schematics)

By theoakade

7 years ago


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  • 31 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Boatcat
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#14 7 years ago

While you have the special lit, go to the back of the machine and at the credit unit, you'll see 3 free-standing switches. Just adjust all 3 to be closed all the time. After doing this, hit the special target to see if it works. Closing all 3 switches will also put the game on free play where you won't have to keep hitting the dime switch on the door, hope this works for you. If the credit target still doesn't work, report back and we'll move on with that.

The 10-point-when-lit sling alternates with the other side upon hitting anything worth 1 point. Look for the 0-9 unit in the head and while hitting something on the playfield worth 1 point, watch to see if this unit is stepping up. If it is, remove the 3 screws on the unit that are facing you. This removes the spring-loaded contact wipers and makes for easy access to cleaning the rivet board. Once cleaned, take just a few drops of 3 and 1 oil and smear on the rivets, this will make the unit step nice and snappy. Once done, re-assemble and make sure the contacts are sitting squarely on the rivets, (while the unit is sitting idle). The alternating relay under the playfield, (alternating this feature on the playfield back and forth), is driven by this unit. If the unit is NOT stepping at all, check the coil making sure it's good and is connected, then clean and check all switches on the 1-point relay in the head. There are 5 or so switches on this relay, 1 of them is to step up the 0-9 unit.

The 1's score reel appears sluggish probably due to grime build-up. Very common problem, particularly around the 9's digit. It will need to be taken apart and cleaned up. Don't let this task intimidate you. After sliding the score reel out of the housing, it's just 3 screws to remove the actual reel. There's a small printed board there to clean also. Make sure when re-assembling that the contact on the circular leaf switch is closest to the number 2 digit, (or you won't be matching on the right number at the end of the game). Also, be careful sliding the unit back into the housing from making contact with the backglass.

1 week later
#16 7 years ago

Hey, Theoakade.................No follow-up?

1 week later
#18 7 years ago

Hey, theoakade,

Upon watching your video, looks like you need to re-read the first 2 paragraphs of my post for fixes on the 0-9 unit and the special targets. I kind of spelled it out there to get you started on them.

To keep the game working on coin entry:..............Of the 3 switches on the credit unit, (in the head), I suggested you adjust, 1 switch will open when the credit reel reads "0" This will keep the game needing a coin to re-start. I suggested you close all 3 switches originally just to make things easy for you, but this will put the game on free-play.

As far as the illuminating lights behind the score................While the game is on, lower the panel of mechanical equipment in the head by swinging the top "L" shaped bar 90 degrees. It will rest on a bracket inside. You can reach in and twist the entire light bulb socket gently either way and the bulb will probably light, (after making sure your bulb is good). By doing this, you're actually cleaning dirt out from inside the socket.

#20 7 years ago

Hey, theoakade,

Yes.............The unit turns during the entire game with each 1-point switch made on the playfield. In the head, there are relays turning each reel, 1-point relay, 10-point relay, etc. On the 1-point relay, there should be 4-5 switches. 1 switch to energize the score reel, 1 switch to hold the relay's own coil in, (EOS switch on score reel), 1 switch in series to roll over 10's reel when 1's reel has reached "9", 1 switch to energize the 0-9 unit coil, and 1 switch that opens when this relay is energized to de-energize the trough gate coil, (under the playfield). Take a small tool and short each switch together 1 at a time and you will see each action happening individually. Don't forget to check the 0-9 unit coil and it's wires.

#25 7 years ago

There is no reset switch on the 1-point relay. Rolf schematically spelled out what I already told you above, I'm not working with a schematic but not really needed here. The switch with the green-yellow wire is normally open, when closed, energizes the 0-9 unit coil.

As you can see, it's the only switch in the circuit to energize the 0-9 unit. If you're not getting any action when shorting the switch closed, again, check the coil and it's wiring.

#29 7 years ago

theoakade,

On the 1-point relay, before touching anything, short out the switch with the green/yellow wire with a small tool or something during a game. It should energize just the 0-9 coil. All 1-point switches take a beating from use over the years so very common to have to clean these good if not working in normal operation. Since all match numbers and playfield lights are working, you shouldn't have to touch the 0-9 unit at all for now.

If the 0-9 unit coil doesn't look burned up, it may have an open winding, but this is NOT very common. More common to see a coil burned out, (from windings getting hot and shorting together). If the coil looks good, take a jumper wire and run it from the coil's green/yellow wire to the slate/white/red wire on the 1-point relay, then, manually push the plastic relay actuator in on the 1-point relay. If the unit still doesn't step, replace the 0-9 unit coil.

1 month later
#31 7 years ago

Happy to help you out whenever you're ready, Theo!

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