(Topic ID: 309657)

Paint line bleed with cab stencils - Attn Cab Paint Experts

By GPS

2 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by GPS
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 2 years ago

    Hello All

    I have experienced some bleed through on the stencils for my game. I have done this before and did not have an issue. Not sure what caused it. I’ll blame it on Rustoleum!!??

    Anyway, I DO NOT want to sand the whole side down to redo this. Is there anyway, keeping in mind I am not an expert painted, that this can be made to look much better?

    I am all ears. Please share your expertise as I cry in my soda!

    Thank you
    George

    George
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    #2 2 years ago

    Not too bad. Just mask off the the white sections and and shoot a couple light ncoats of white over the bad sections. All straight lines, so any good blue or green tape will work.

    #3 2 years ago

    Thank you jj44114 I am grateful. Really think it had something to do with the black paint. I think I am going to switch to krylon for the white and black on the cabinet.

    Well I need to wait three days minimum to do anything.

    Thank you again for the advise

    #4 2 years ago

    What does the group think about using a brush to touch up the areas in question in addition to the masking? Just thinking I would have better control??

    #5 2 years ago

    Honestly...I would take some frisket and mask off the black, making the lines perfectly straight. Then, paper mask off the rest of the cabinet and respray the bleeding areas with the white. I would spray it so you don't get paint build up or brush strokes showing. You went through all that trouble of getting it so beautiful, take another (I know it's a pain in butt) hour and mask it off right and re-hit the white. After you strip it and everything is perfect, you'll be so glad you did.

    As for the black, me...I'd have to mask off the white and respray that black too, but if you want to do that the quick way out, you should be fine by spraying the black paint onto a q-tip and lightly touching those few white spots that are showing to blend it in. That should be fine.

    GL.

    #6 2 years ago

    Thank you Pinfidel I don’t have any frisket left around but I thought I could stop at the local auto paint store and get some stripping tape and use that. That seems to have a very high resistance to paint bleed. Your thoughts?? Thank you!

    #7 2 years ago

    Blue 3M masking tape is designed exactly for this purpose.

    #8 2 years ago

    Real paint line masking tape (not just paper maskin tape as that will bleed).
    Also I would scrape off some of the black bled-through paint so that you don’t build layer upon layer.
    Then use a paint can of the same white and paint a larger area than just where it’s bled through - light coats.

    #9 2 years ago

    Looks like the edges of the stencil weren’t perfectly sealed, possibly because the wood surface isn’t perfectly smooth. It’s also possible that you sprayed too heavy of a coat. Even a well applied stencil on a smooth surface won’t be able to block paint that is moving, especially rattle can paint (which is loaded with solvent). Always go with light coats. When I’m using a rattle can, I’ll build it up gradually, usually in two or three coats spaced apart in time according to the directions on the can.

    I agree with recommendations above to mask it off (tape for the lines and paper or plastic for the rest of the cab). Frog tape works waaaay better than blue 3m tape. Yellow frog tape is my go to for paint work. It’s for delicate surfaces - less aggressive adhesive that poses a decreased risk of pulling up or damaging fresh paint and other surfaces, but seals really well and makes excellent lines. The green stuff is probably too aggressive of an adhesive for this job. Be sure to seal the edge really well with your finger. Don’t seal the whole width of the tape, just the edge you are painting. The rest of the tape can be gently adhered. The less surfaces you stick to the fresh paint the better.

    Also, wait until the paint you’re going over is fully cured so you don’t get an odd reaction from residual solvent vapors trying to escape from the older layers up through your fresh layer. Use the same paint as before so that it matches perfectly in tone and sheen and so that the chemistry is the same.

    I’d turn the cabinet on its side so that the side I am working on is flat like a table.

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from ViperTim:

    Real paint line masking tape (not just paper maskin tape as that will bleed).
    Also I would scrape off some of the black bled-through paint so that you don’t build layer upon layer.
    Then use a paint can of the same white and paint a larger area than just where it’s bled through - light coats.

    What tape do you like?

    #11 2 years ago

    The key to any stencil job is less paint is better when using cans like rustoleum. Light coats.

    #12 2 years ago

    Thank you kindly all who took the time to share their thoughts!!

    #14 2 years ago

    i redid the left side of an F-14 and there are ton of little nooks and crannies that i went back over with felt tip paint pens after re-masking with straight line painter's tape

    i like to think it came out well, though in the end i let my wife do the final pass at it and called it done because i just couldn't stop futzing with it. if you zoom in under the left flipper button it's not quite perfect but i sold that game so it's someone else's OCD trigger now

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    #15 2 years ago

    You can use blue painters tape or that green frog tape. Those are made to peel away without pulling off any paint under the tape. That's the important thing, using a tape with enough tack to stay down, stop blleding and that peels off cleanly.

    My suggestion, get some 1/4 inch fine line detail tape. Stick that down first, making all the lines perfectly straight. Then, take some masking paper and lay that down beside the detail tape. Then take blue painters tape and seal the paper mask by taping the painters tape to the 1/4" detail tape and the paper mask. Now, after you're done with the touch up spraying, you simply peel off the detail tape and the blue painters tape and paper mask will all come off together.

    I wish you were closer so I could come help you do this. It's so much easier to do than actual explain.

    #16 2 years ago

    Thank you soo much @pinfidel!! I am grateful. At least unknown how I screwed up. Way too much paint too fast. Live and learn.

    Soni came home this eve and CAREFULLY took a single edge razor blade and was able to clean things up to my satisfaction. I’m pretty ocd so I think most would approve!!

    The paint was still a long way from dry this eve. I just put way too much paint on too fast. Way too much.

    Thank you again so very much!!

    #17 2 years ago

    Yes, spray paint builds up very quick..you need to move at a good pace, one not too fast and not too slow.

    A good way to do spray painting is to lightly mist over what you're spraying and just do multiple coats. So, you'd spray a nice misted coat on and then leave it to mostly dry before misting in another coat. Then, let that coat dry before adding another coat.

    Doing it this way takes much more time and you may have to spray your area 6, 8 or even 10 times to get solid/full coverage, BUT you'll never have runs and the finished product will yield professional results.

    Doing it this way will also give you lots of practice spraying so that you get the "feel" of it and are far more comfortable doing it. Before you know it, you'll be able to cover things in 3 or 4 coats without runs or issues.

    BTW, I've been a painter my whole life. I've painted inside and outside homes, buildings, commercial, residential, schools, gymnasiums, train stations, busses, vehicles and the occasional pinball machine, to name a few things I've done.

    #18 2 years ago

    have found the best way to stop (or at least reduce) paint bleed - once either the stencil or tape is down seal the edge with a thin layer of the base colour. just dip your finger in the paint and run along the edge.

    #19 2 years ago

    All great ideas and I remain thank ful!

    I sprayed the other side of the head this eve and that went ok. Two coats letting about ten minutes elapse in between the first and final. Did ok. I am going to change to krylon for the cabinet. Gloss white and black should not be that different from brand to brand. It’s just soooo much easier to work with. I’ll keep the magenta Rustoleum as that is the critical color that I would not want to Mis-match. The head is now done and drying. I will then put the transformer assembly back in along with the cage that I was able to locate from a nearby pinsider. Those always seem to be missing. Anyway glad to have found it. It makes the head more complete.

    I then have to reattach the door and put the wiring harness back in. I did reinstall all new molex connectors as well as lamp sockets. Did not do the headers. Figured if I need to do that I will. It’s easy enough to remove a board but tougher to do the harness while still in the head. We shall see.

    Getting closer to the playfield swap! OH SHIT!! Kind of nervous. I’ll take lots of pics and label the hell out of the harness. Shouldn’t get too far away from me this way! I hope at least!

    Thanks guys!!

    #20 2 years ago

    It's gonna look truly amazing when it's done brother. Can't wait to see pics.

    GL the rest of the way. Hope everything goes easy and smooth for ya.

    #21 2 years ago

    Thank you Sir

    #22 2 years ago

    I have put in a ton of time thus far and am no where close to done. Just spent a good two hours just polishing the lockdown bar!! I like that to be shiny!

    I am trying to be as thorough as possible as I go through the machine. Head…New molex connectors, new lamp sockets, completely cleaned, repainted and new nomenclature put in head. Added five x pin displays. Added the x pin resistor network so the new leds won’t flickers. New paint of course. Re-capped the sound board.

    In addition to the polishing work this eve that’s it thus far. Going to completely repaint cab and do a playfield swap. That should qualify as some kind of shop job?? lol

    Thanks again

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