(Topic ID: 206552)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Technical Thread


By chrisnack

1 year ago



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  • 351 posts
  • 77 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by cohlhoff
  • Topic is favorited by 88 Pinsiders

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#259 1 year ago

I have an interesting behavior:

During sling activity the lock diverter or something near it will chudder.
Not all the time, but once or twice in every game.

Its hard to track down as it works perfectly.
It only does this during a game and most noticeably when there is a lot of sling action.

Pounding on the playfield doesnt reproduce this problem.

2 weeks later
#260 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have an interesting behavior:
During sling activity the lock diverter or something near it will chudder.
Not all the time, but once or twice in every game.
Its hard to track down as it works perfectly.
It only does this during a game and most noticeably when there is a lot of sling action.
Pounding on the playfield doesnt reproduce this problem.

Solved it

evidently Shaker motor is causing vibration of the sling rubbers and causing the slings to activate if they're set too close

1 week later
#263 11 months ago
Quoted from Atrain:

Received my AFMr SE on June 12. Made in Dec 2017. Some very frustrating issues
1. Left flipper doesn't work. Same exact issue as posted 5months ago in this thread. The bottom bracket fell off into the cabinet and the solenoid isn't working
2. Lockbar is so hard to work with. Never had an experience like this before.
3. When shot into lock, balls falls off of wire rail into out lane
Very very frustrating experience so far

Coil stops fall off all the time, especially on the flippers.
Put a drop of blue loctite on the threads of the screws this time, they will hold.
The screws need to be fairly tight on flipper mech parts, but dont strip them out.
Reassemble the flipper mech, make sure its intact i.e return spring etc.
While you are there, check all of the screws you can see on everything (I mean every single screw on the entire game. It will take about 15 mins). Tighten as necessary or blue loctite on metal/metal parts.

If you strip out a screw in the wood: put a 3/8" piece of toothpick or bamboo skewer in the hole with titebond III wood glue, the re-insert the screw and tighten it up. it will be better than new when done.

Lower your flipper power or increase the pitch of the game if balls are flying off the wireforms.
Get a digital torpedo level if you dont have one already.
My game pitch is set at 6.6 degrees (measured on the playfield not the glass) and flippers on set at default.
The game is set very level side to side or horizontally (measured in 3 places as an average).
Balls are not flying off the wireforms. If they were I would lower the flipper power incrementally until it stopped.

I using pinball life super bands on the flippers in red. They have less bounce and are easier to live catch the ball.

Pinball is an action game and takes maintenance. All pinball machines fall apart without maintenance.
This is not an issue with CGC or any manufacturer its just the truth.

The lockdown bar is fully adjustable. the brass screws in the receiver adjust it with patience.

Press down on the lockdown bar above the yellow handle while pulling the yellow handle.
Installation is the reverse.

If its super tight (preferred) loosen both screws 1/2 turn each or tighten 1/4 turn each as needed.

The simple tweaks, adjustments and repairs you need on your game are not difficult or even time consuming but they need to be done.
Remember for the home user, pinball is as much of a hobby as it is a game to play.

If you are looking for a turn key perfect environment with no maintenance, get a video game or an Xbox.

#265 11 months ago
Quoted from Atrain:

Thanks for the good advice. Was able to implement them (used tthe Loctite, adjusted the brass screws). So far so good. Thanks for talking me down.

Great news!

Now, "Return to battle Soldier!"

#268 11 months ago
Quoted from ctozzi:

I'm having the same issue I'll try it in the am.

Firmly press down on the lockdown bar over the yellow handle, while pulling the handle when you re-install it.
Its supposed to be tight.

Basically, if they got it on at the factory and adjusted it, you can too.

Sloppy loose lockdown bars affect game play.

1 month later
#273 9 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

I get a LOT of balls stuck in the diverter on the plunge on my LE. Any ideas?

What is the angle of your Playfield?

Have you applied the shooter Lane fix or order the replacement ball guide for the shooter Lane.

There is a service bulletin on that fix. If the ball won't go all the way around on the plunge for the super skill shot.

Call Chicago gaming company for the fix.

5 months later
#288 4 months ago
Quoted from BubbaBeast:

Looking for any suggestions that you guys might have regarding balls going into the shooter lane or outlane when coming around the right lock shot onto the wireform at any significant speed. I saw a few people post about this earlier in the thread - but I didn't see a definitive fix. I've loosened the screws and moved the wireform to a variety of different locations. Some are better than others, but nothing has been 100% yet (I'm still losing balls down the outlane - especially at high speed). Has CGC (or anyone on Pinside) come up with any good solutions?

I also reduced flipper power.
Works flawlessly now.

#292 4 months ago
Quoted from flamehead:

Hit the start button on my afmr today and the ball kicker didn’t kick the ball into the trough. So then I noticed the flippers and bumpers weren’t working. All the low voltage stuff seemed to be working. Fuse? If yes anyone know where it’s located? Thanks in advance

It's in the manual, I'm not sure the page number.

#294 4 months ago
Quoted from flamehead:

Hit the start button on my afmr today and the ball kicker didn’t kick the ball into the trough. So then I noticed the flippers and bumpers weren’t working. All the low voltage stuff seemed to be working. Fuse? If yes anyone know where it’s located? Thanks in advance

Yes, check the white coin door interlock switch and the mounting bracket.
If its lose or bent back to far it wont engage, and kill all the high voltage power

1 week later
#310 3 months ago
Quoted from weolmd:

NIB AFMrSE
The left ramp doesn't always trip the lane light. It misses probably about a third of the time. Is this common or are there any known adjustments?

Go into switch test and start checking switches with a ball.

Adjust as necessary to get consistant operation

#312 3 months ago
Quoted from Wildcat_33:

I know there has been a few bits and pieces on this thread around the flipper settings and have read a few different angles. Now that I have had the game for a bit, I am wondering if people have their flipper power at default or have made an up/down adjustment?

Everyone has lowered the flipper power a couple notches, lowered the slings and raised at least one of the pops.

Also narrowed the outlanes a bit or all the way.

#314 3 months ago
Quoted from Wildcat_33:

Many thanks, this was a big help. Didn't know about the outlanes and when looking at mine, one was wide open the other was maybe halfway. Makes total sense now why i have been right drain heavy since day one.
I made all of the adjustments except for at least one of the pops. With an increase here, do you achieve super jets quicker?

I have the upper right?
Up a notch for better action.

#320 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

My AFMRLE received on Friday. This pic was taken in the box. Was this ever address by CG for AFMR? I know the water is hot in the MBRLE world. Got one of those on the way wondering if I will have matching numbers and cracks.
[quoted image]

Is the cabinet front loose or unglued? Never glued?

Cracked in the box?
Dropped? Shipping damage?
Immediately call distributor.

#324 3 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Ok. Question:
I play my AFMrLE and my sol shoots straight down to my left flipper....right where it supposed to go.
After say....10 games, it begins to quite often shoot straight down the middle. Sometimes even just “trickles” out to the right flipper. What the heck? Why does this happen and ruin potentially good games?
Thanks for any insight you can provide.

Wall power inconsistencies perhaps.

I have mine on a variac now to stabilize it.

#327 3 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Better yet...what is a variac? Lol. I searched and they look big? Do they come power bar size somewhere?

20amp 120v variac cost about $80.

They are sorta big but have a cool steampunk look to them.

I originally bought for my Houdini but it doesnt need it any more after the power supply upgrade from the factory.

My power is very inconsistant so I plugged all my games into them.

Regulated power is really nice, the games are super consistant now.

#330 3 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

It’s weird, I’ve never had a power issue. It’s like the coil gets tired?? After a few games it slows down...I don’t think it’s power related. When I let it rest (lol), it goes back to normal - right at the left flipper; I don’t understand?

They call it flipper fatigue.
Hot coils have more resistance and less power.

Some games with long ball times, most notably LOTR, have had fans added to cool the coils, or replaced the coils altogether with different ones.

I've noticed it on WOZ and TH after 40 mins of play om a very long game.
Adding fans to these games might be in order if the game times are continuously long.

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