If the diverter is working, a switch past it isn't. So the game thinks the diverter is stuck open.

Check switch, also check if it goes up and down in slot in the playfield smoothly, not dragging on one side.

LTG : )

It should move up and down with the screws as needed.

Glass off, playfield up and leaned back, put lockdown bar on and then adjust as needed, when you can watch what is happening.

LTG : )

No.

They Aren't.

Because according to psivo's post, it happened right away. He tried a new coil ( no idea if CGC sent one or he had one ) then psivo hoped the 2.0 PIC would fix it. No mention in there in letting CGC know what was going on, so they could send a new driver board. I'm sure CGC never knew about hoping the the 2.0 PIC might fix it part, they would have informed him no.

If he opens a ticket, or adds to an existing ticket, they'll get him what he needs.

LTG : )

At the time you talked to them, it was an isolated incident. They didn't know until other collectors started having the same issue and opened tickets. On the support desk it started and snowballed within a week. And that is why the ticket desk. CGC sees a trend, knows somethings up, and figured it out and came up with a cure.

Also at the start of this, there was at least one bad flipper coil popped up, and the first thought was some bad coils got out.

LTG : )

I don't have access to those who called and talked to Doug or Arturo. I did follow along on the ticket desk.

So if you are referring to direct calls, I apologize, I didn't have that data.

LTG : )

Clip the pin is best. Remove plug from connector second best.

LTG : )

See if you have the 2.0 PIC on the board in the head. If lower number, leave flippers at default setting and get 2.0 PIC from who you bought the game from.

LTG : )

DSC00481 (resized).JPG

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Here is one, same as yours. It's too late to open mine up. I cut the pin on mine.

You are safe to do either. Cut the pin or pull the plug in the connector.

I do tech support for the remakes. So you are safe to do this.

LTG : )

amfmrtopperboard2 (resized).jpg

Here is the one in my game. I cut the pin.

LTG : )

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Just the left.

LTG : )

Easy to check. Open back box, and compare to these pictures with the latest "chip"

LTG : )

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Loosen the lock nut and slide it over more.

No reason too unless you need it. Unless you lower them to help with the above problem.

LTG : )

No.

Bend wall back a tiny bit. Or if it's getting stuck on the gate, bend the gate bracket up a little.

LTG : )

You might not have the right PIC on your driver board.

Please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Under Support on the Help Desk and open a ticket. Post a picture of your driver board in the head.

LTG : )

Check if the PIC ( long IC ) on the driver board in the head has a label like 1.0, if so you need the 2.0, open a ticket under Support on the help desk at chicago-gaming.com . If it has 2.0 or nothing like either, you are good to go. If 1.0, then don't mess with coil settings until you upgrade.

Firct page of the CGC menu has what software version is in your game, check against the one on CGC's website on the AFM page. Page 1-10 in the manual explains the CGC menu.

LTG : )

In the back box, behind the translite. Page 1-60 in the manual.

As other pointed out, check the high power interlock switch on the left side of the coin door opening. Two fat white switches there, top one is high power interlock. With the coin door open you can pull the knob out to check. If things work then, make sure the flap on the coin door that closes it is bent over enough to close it good. You can check that switch too and see if the wire connectors are on tight.

I've attached a picture ( from a WOZ, wire colors might be different ) to give you an idea.

If you leave the key in the lock, pull it out slightly so the lock doesn't turn. If door is loose, bend the cam on the lock a little to tighten the door.

LTG : )

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Did you pull the knob on the switch out ? Are all the wires still on it ?

Left and right gate are low power. You lost high power.

LTG : )

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Please open a ticket on the Help Desk under Support so the engineers can see what next. If it goes to me I'll kick it up to them.

LTG : )

What ticket number ? If you need parts or something, CGC probably won't be on it until Monday. If it's how to do something, I can help.

LTG : )

I alerted it to Edwin.

He should be on it on Monday.

Thank you,
Lloyd

Should be marked. AC in, DC out. Put a meter on the DC and see if it's right. Careful of the AC 110 in.

LTG : )

1.0.0 ( 1.1 is the Williams software version ) check the CGC menu, first page is what is in your game. Page 1-10 in the manual explains how to get into the CGC menu.

You can always check the website - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ - go to Attack From Mars and scroll down to the bottom.

LTG : )

No.

LTG : )

Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver. Up or down to tighten or loosen.

Loosen big locknut under the playfield - slide post in slot - tighten big locknut under playfield.

LTG : )

Yes.

LTG : )

I'd open a ticket.

LTG : )

I have an LE here in commercial use since the beginning and no issues like you saw.

LTG : )

Sounds like a ground wire. Could you post a picture please.

If all else fails. Check and see which fuse blew.

LTG : )

Back box. Driver board. Lower right corner. Fuses F102, F103, F104. Check if the LEDs next to them are on. Please do this with the power on and coin door closed or high power interlock switch pulled out.

LTG : )

Definitely a ground wire. My game doesn't have it. You could always open a ticket on the website https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ under Support - Help Desk and see if they know.

And it doesn't have anything to do with your problem.

LTG : )

F103 20mm 4 amp slow blow ( or time delay ). 250 Volt

LTG : )

None of your 50V High Power Solenoids are working. That is what that fuse covers.

LTG : )

My pleasure.

LTG : )

Yes. I edited my post. It's 250 volt.

LTG : )

Please open a ticket under Support - Help Desk https://www.chicago-gaming.com/

You may not hear back until Monday.

Though you have the 2.0 PIC in there, I don't know if there could be a different version of it ? Not to mention broken wire, not connected connector, bad motor, etc. Can you try measuring power to the motor lugs, behind the huge Martian ?

LTG : )

I kicked your ticket up to the engineer.

Thank you,
Lloyd

They did that when released. Choose the one you want.

CE, SE, LE.

I believe the only reason for MMR is they did want to make the large display available. Which is available on the SE and LE games of the other titles.

LTG : )

If the shooter lane switch is working right, closes when a ball is on it, stays closed. And isn't binding in the slot it goes up and down in the playfield in. I'd try a factor reset to see if it fixes it.

I'd swap the left and right flipper button opto boards. See if problem moves, or goes away.

LTG : )

Reflow solder on the coil lugs, or try swapping left and right flipper coils. Sounds like an issue with the hold.

LTG : )

Please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ and under Support - Help Desk. Open a ticket so they can look into it.

LTG : )

Lower their strength in the CGC menu. Page 1-10 in the manual or this video.

LTG : )

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

Did you turn down the minimum volume override in Adjustments A.1 #28 ? You can set that to 0 or 1, then use the "-" button on the coin door to lower volume further.

LTG : )

Top left corner of the game. On the ramp.

LTG : )

Behind the saucer up there. Hole in the ramp for the screw and hole in the ramp for the tab sticking down. To prevent balls getting there.

LTG : )

He's on it.

LTG : )

No.

LTG : )

No. Williams software, which CGC uses, didn't allow for it.

LTG : )

I'd enable the high power interlock switch on the coin door and run through coil tests. See if you lost a couple or all.

Then check fuses lower right corner of the driver board in the backbox.

LTG : )

I'd pull it's fuse and check with an ohm meter to see if it's partially blown.

Then make sure plunger moves freely. And reseat connector for that coil to where it plugs onto a board.

LTG : )

Please check under the board in the saucer to be sure the insulating paper thing is between the metal and the board, so it isn't grounding out.

LTG : )

Swap left and right flipper button opto boards and see if problem moves.

LTG : )

Make sure coil stop is on tight too.

LTG : )

Be sure the opto interrupter is clearing the opto beam enough.

A tiny bit of up and down play on the flipper bat (not back and forth ) ?

LTG : )

Yes. Same in original and remake.

Remake LE uses translucent ones. Original and other AFM remakes use the opaque ones.

LTG : )

No idea if it exists. Watch the ball, if it's hitting the bottom of the wireform, raise it a bit. Be sure the plunger hits the center of the ball.

LTG : )

Don't cut anything.

Is the ball setting on the shooter lane switch crooked ?

Loosen the coil/plunger bracket, try moving it to aim better. Be sure coil sleeve isn't worn.

LTG : )

Remove it. Look it over for wear or cracks.

LTG : )

Have you tried loosening the bracket and moving the coil/plunger to the left a little ?

LTG : )

Increase playfield pitch or lower flipper strength in the CGC menu. Page 1-10 in the manual.

LTG : )

If you look at it from the side, is it hitting the flap on the right and going back down instead of to the shooter lane ? If so bend the flap out a little.

If not that, coil sleeve in the coil in good shape ?

If not that, the whole coil assembly is held on the end of the ball trough, 4 screws, loosen them and slip some washers between trough and bracket and retighten them, that should bring it out a little and contact the ball better.

LTG : )