Martin, TN
I did pull the switch and the 50+ fuse f103 is good all the wires are connected to the switch on the door....
(Topic ID: 206552)
Linked Games
Attack From Mars (Remake - Classic)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017-
Attack From Mars (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
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Attack From Mars (Remake - Special)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
Topic Gallery
Quoted from flamehead:I did pull the switch and the 50+ fuse f103 is good all the wires are connected to the switch on the door....
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Please open a ticket on the Help Desk under Support so the engineers can see what next. If it goes to me I'll kick it up to them.
LTG : )
Quoted from flamehead:Opened ticket no response 24 hours ago
What ticket number ? If you need parts or something, CGC probably won't be on it until Monday. If it's how to do something, I can help.
LTG : )
Quoted from flamehead:Ticket # 3015
I alerted it to Edwin.
He should be on it on Monday.
Thank you,
Lloyd
Quoted from flamehead:How can I test that.
Should be marked. AC in, DC out. Put a meter on the DC and see if it's right. Careful of the AC 110 in.
LTG : )
Quoted from weolmd:NIB AFMrSE
The left ramp doesn't always trip the lane light. It misses probably about a third of the time. Is this common or are there any known adjustments?
Go into switch test and start checking switches with a ball.
Adjust as necessary to get consistant operation
I know there has been a few bits and pieces on this thread around the flipper settings and have read a few different angles. Now that I have had the game for a bit, I am wondering if people have their flipper power at default or have made an up/down adjustment?
Quoted from Wildcat_33:I know there has been a few bits and pieces on this thread around the flipper settings and have read a few different angles. Now that I have had the game for a bit, I am wondering if people have their flipper power at default or have made an up/down adjustment?
Everyone has lowered the flipper power a couple notches, lowered the slings and raised at least one of the pops.
Also narrowed the outlanes a bit or all the way.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Everyone has lowered the flipper power a couple notches, lowered the slings and raised at least one of the pops.
Also narrowed the outlanes a bit or all the way.
Many thanks, this was a big help. Didn't know about the outlanes and when looking at mine, one was wide open the other was maybe halfway. Makes total sense now why i have been right drain heavy since day one.
I made all of the adjustments except for at least one of the pops. With an increase here, do you achieve super jets quicker?
Quoted from Wildcat_33:Many thanks, this was a big help. Didn't know about the outlanes and when looking at mine, one was wide open the other was maybe halfway. Makes total sense now why i have been right drain heavy since day one.
I made all of the adjustments except for at least one of the pops. With an increase here, do you achieve super jets quicker?
I have the upper right?
Up a notch for better action.
Quoted from flamehead:Still no resolution. I tested The interlock switch itself with an ohmmeter and the switch is working fine tested all the fuses on the sol board and they are all good. Can it be the power supply? How can I test that.
Any progress yet
Quoted from f3honda4me:Is the current software version 1.1?
1.0.0 ( 1.1 is the Williams software version ) check the CGC menu, first page is what is in your game. Page 1-10 in the manual explains how to get into the CGC menu.
You can always check the website - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ - go to Attack From Mars and scroll down to the bottom.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:1.0.0 ( 1.1 is the Williams software version ) check the CGC menu, first page is what is in your game. Page 1-10 in the manual explains how to get into the CGC menu.
You can always check the website - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ - go to Attack From Mars and scroll down to the bottom.
LTG : )
Thank you as always, you are much appreciated!
Quoted from Pinballocd:My AFMRLE received on Friday. This pic was taken in the box. Was this ever address by CG for AFMR? I know the water is hot in the MBRLE world. Got one of those on the way wondering if I will have matching numbers and cracks.
[quoted image]
Is the cabinet front loose or unglued? Never glued?
Cracked in the box?
Dropped? Shipping damage?
Immediately call distributor.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Is the cabinet front loose or unglued? Never glued?
Cracked in the box?
Dropped? Shipping damage?
Immediately call distributor.
Don’t think damaged in shipping or at least form anything out of the normal with the shipping. Game looks good besides the crack. Emailed PPS.
Essex, ON
Ok. Question:
I play my AFMrLE and my sol shoots straight down to my left flipper....right where it supposed to go.
After say....10 games, it begins to quite often shoot straight down the middle. Sometimes even just “trickles” out to the right flipper. What the heck? Why does this happen and ruin potentially good games?
Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Quoted from Pinballocd:My AFMRLE received on Friday. This pic was taken in the box. Was this ever address by CG for AFMR? I know the water is hot in the MBRLE world. Got one of those on the way wondering if I will have matching numbers and cracks.
[quoted image]
They addressed it in the MBR thread today. It has to do with how the decal was wrapped. They are changing that to address future machines. For your machine you’d have to contact CGC and I’m guessing they would send new decals you’ll have to install.
Quoted from hollywood:Ok. Question:
I play my AFMrLE and my sol shoots straight down to my left flipper....right where it supposed to go.
After say....10 games, it begins to quite often shoot straight down the middle. Sometimes even just “trickles” out to the right flipper. What the heck? Why does this happen and ruin potentially good games?
Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Wall power inconsistencies perhaps.
I have mine on a variac now to stabilize it.
Quoted from hollywood:Better yet...what is a variac? Lol. I searched and they look big? Do they come power bar size somewhere?
20amp 120v variac cost about $80.
They are sorta big but have a cool steampunk look to them.
I originally bought for my Houdini but it doesnt need it any more after the power supply upgrade from the factory.
My power is very inconsistant so I plugged all my games into them.
Regulated power is really nice, the games are super consistant now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:20amp 120v variac cost about $80.
They are sorta big but have a cool steampunk look to them.
I originally bought for my Houdini but it doesnt need it any more after the power supply upgrade from the factory.
My power is very inconsistant so I plugged all my games into them.
Regulated power is really nice, the games are super consistant now.
It’s weird, I’ve never had a power issue. It’s like the coil gets tired?? After a few games it slows down...I don’t think it’s power related. When I let it rest (lol), it goes back to normal - right at the left flipper; I don’t understand? 
Dumb question, installing Cliffy protectors on my AFMRLE tonight, where does the Lock and Drain protectors go? Any pics?
Thanks!
Quoted from hollywood:It’s weird, I’ve never had a power issue. It’s like the coil gets tired?? After a few games it slows down...I don’t think it’s power related. When I let it rest (lol), it goes back to normal - right at the left flipper; I don’t understand?
They call it flipper fatigue.
Hot coils have more resistance and less power.
Some games with long ball times, most notably LOTR, have had fans added to cool the coils, or replaced the coils altogether with different ones.
I've noticed it on WOZ and TH after 40 mins of play om a very long game.
Adding fans to these games might be in order if the game times are continuously long.
Quoted from Pinballocd:Dumb question, installing Cliffy protectors on my AFMRLE tonight, where does the Lock and Drain protectors go? Any pics?
Thanks!
For the record. Just got this pic from Cliffy.
AFM-R-diverter-lock-001 (1) (resized).jpgI think I inadvertently erased my “Total Plays” number. Is there anyway to retrieve it? I am considering selling my LE and have a real close estimate but want to be able to report an accurate number. If not, is there another report I can access that you think would be of use to a prospective buyer?
2 weeks later
Ok, silly question but figured I’d ask versus trial and error. How do you close the outlanes? Is it all done from the bottom of the playfield? Can’t see where to get at them from top Sam they look to be under the plastics.
Also my lockdown bar is a little loose. Where do you tighten that up?
Quoted from pghpinfan:Also my lockdown bar is a little loose. Where do you tighten that up?
Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver. Up or down to tighten or loosen.
Quoted from pghpinfan:How do you close the outlanes?
Loosen big locknut under the playfield - slide post in slot - tighten big locknut under playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver. Up or down to tighten or loosen.
Loosen big locknut under the playfield - slide post in slot - tighten big locknut under playfield.
LTG : )
Thank you.
I have a MBR Le as well , same approach to close outlanes?
Quoted from LTG:Yes.
LTG : )
Cool thanks!
Quoted from JohnDelNJ:This may have been asked before but what essential Cliffy protectors would you install on a new AFMR? Thinking about getting one and want to order them to have when it gets here.
Thanks!
The entire AFMLE kit Cliffy has; all are needed.
Hi all -
Tonight I noticed that my main saucer lights are not working at all (LE). In the test menu, the "Saucer LED test" looks like it's working, but none of the lights on the saucer illuminate, either in automatic or manual mode.
What I have tried:
- Re-seating the connector at J14 (labeled "Saucer"),
- Re-seated the 9-pin Molex connector that comes out of the back of the saucer assembly,
- Re-seated the 2-pin Molex connector that is in teh same bundle.
Any thoughts before I open a ticket with CGC?
Thanks!
-Michael
2019-03-06 20.03.37 (resized).jpgQuoted from LTG:I'd open a ticket.
LTG : )
On it, thanks!
2 months later
Quoted from LTG:Check if the PIC ( long IC ) on the driver board in the head has a label like 1.0, if so you need the 2.0, open a ticket under Support on the help desk at chicago-gaming.com . If it has 2.0 or nothing like either, you are good to go. If 1.0, then don't mess with coil settings until you upgrade.
Firct page of the CGC menu has what software version is in your game, check against the one on CGC's website on the AFM page. Page 1-10 in the manual explains the CGC menu.
LTG : )
Same issue with the game I got today. Was your issue fixed?
Quoted from BubbaBeast:Looking for any suggestions that you guys might have regarding balls going into the shooter lane or outlane when coming around the right lock shot onto the wireform at any significant speed. I saw a few people post about this earlier in the thread - but I didn't see a definitive fix. I've loosened the screws and moved the wireform to a variety of different locations. Some are better than others, but nothing has been 100% yet (I'm still losing balls down the outlane - especially at high speed). Has CGC (or anyone on Pinside) come up with any good solutions?
Having the same exact issue with the game I got today. Did you get this resolved?
Quoted from mjthompson:I think it goes on the top of the post I have circled in the picture. I don't believe there is anything attached to the top of it once it's installed.[quoted image]
Problem solved! Thank you!
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