make sure you put the flippers back to default or you risk blowing the board on the machine. See the thread above.

Question about replacing the Bally logo with custom logo.
When i went to load my custom logo there was already a very cool alien face as a second option.
If I replace this logo with new custom logo will it be erased? Is there a way to save custom logos from the machine to microSD?

Ihave tweaked out the shooter lane issue...biggest change was REDUCING the autoplunger strength...but now back to default awaiting solenoid driver updates. I have the super power flippers that launches airballs allover where adjusting strength does nothing. I kinda like the crazy airballs and crazy fast gameplay...and I no longer have playfield dimples...they have all merged into one

Thanks all, these "tecnical forums" have been very helpful.

Yup; aware of the issues. Thanks for the heads up!

Userlogo

There can only be a single userlogo.bmp at a time. I think you'll lose the currently loaded logo when you insert the new one, unless you've got a copy of that file on your PC...

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+1

PIC 2.0 is their software update?

PIC is a type of micro controller:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PIC_microcontroller

It’s what runs the Solenoid board software.

Try this .... my fix and it worked for two others

1) Make sure your ramp is bent correctly like CGC says.

2) This worked for me and others, mines 99% now. ( dont want to say 100% and jinx it because a misfire can always happen and this is NOT CGC approved and you still need to adjust your shooter as best as you can )

Remove jump ramp and use a piece of 1" x 1/2 inch double sided tape. Place the tape on the ramp flap starting right where the ramp meets the flap edge . ( Put the 1" side along that edge where they meet. )

Place ramp back on the game being careful not to let the tape touch until its in position and press down.

When looking at the game tighten the right side screw down untill its snugged down, then tighten the left side screw WATCHING THE CENTER of the jump ramp closely. When you see it start to dip just slightly On the ( watch the left edge ) back off a just a hair.

Turn your setting to MAX and try. What I think it may be doing is when you tighten the left screw down its causing a dip in the ramp causing it to be steeper and lean to the left.

Then tightening sequence is MOST important but being sure the game is level and at the recommended pitch is also very important.

OK so I just received and installed a new Controller Board (AFMrLE) my game settings with my old board had the flipper coils at -2. That setting was just right to prevent the overpowered flippers causing crazy air balls at default.
The new board had all the coil adjustments set to default ( to be expected) As I played my first game I noticed the flippers felt weak had trouble getting the ball to go up the ramps with any speed So I bumped up the flipper coils to +2 Perfect! This is what I would consider normal behavior for the coil adjustment!

What was your experience prior to the board blowing?

I didn't have the flipper coil issues that a lot of these guys are seeing. My game responded to coil adjustments just fine. The board was replaced for a separate issue. I just thought it was significant that the flippers were weak at default instead overpowered. ( I have an early build date 8-1-2017)

I think it’s interesting that changing the controller board would have that affect. The coil power and code really comes from the Solenoid Driver Board. The controller board is just sending on and off messages. But if you’re happy and the game is working then all good!

I felt the same way. Im surprised that it affected the machine that way. It just seems more normal now with a +2 on the flipper coil. Go figure....

After the initial bend attempt worked for a few games I went back in and bent the left popper assembly inward more than I was originally comfortable with, still just a little though, and after playing all night tonight it never failed once on default power. Essentially it's getting the popper assembly below the playfield aligned with the scoop above the playfield. I'll flip away tomorrow night as well and report back if it continues to be successful.

The instructions are to have your flipper power set to default until the software update. It is clear. You could be risking your solenoid board again.

My 12v power supply failed day 1 had i think 8 games with wife and KAPOOT I have a sheet covering it and pretending its not there we enjoyed the games we played though

Don't think so here... It's clear that my situation did not involve the solenoid board It involved the controller board for a different reason

Man that stinks! Please let us know how CGC gets you going again!

Sucks. fyi...when the warranty expires, you can buy the exact part on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-RS-150-12-Supply-Single/dp/B00DECSE8G/ref=sr_1_1

snaroff

My AFMR LE Flippers are too strong causing airballs everywhere and every game
Playfield timber must have more clearcoat than MMR as dimples are in the thousand after 60 games and more prominent
If I had known I would have bought a playfield protector
The game is 3 times brighter than MMR so I would say playfield is more lit exposing any imperfections easier to the eye
I now have accepted and as other members have mentioned they will blend in overtime

Thanks for that snaroff! As always you are on it!

fyi...most people end up not liking PF protectors...negatively impacts gameplay.

Sounds like airballs are your biggest problem (which was true for me when the game was functioning). If the ball is being propelled so violently, it can obviously contribute to deeper than normal dimples.

Considering how many folks are speaking up and submitting tickets, I imagine a fix to the "flippers on steroids" problem is being worked on.

snaroff

You should see it with PDI glass

Thank you might get 1 for spare anyway

Here I'll post it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjnidctcncvd7zw/Popper%20Alignment.mov?dl=0

Lots of bending going on here........ Its so funny how many people are still complaining about the shooter but I have only heard from two other pinsiders that tried the fix i mentioned and they are having zero issues now. Ill keep playing my game and making that super fast skill shot every time. Go figure.

I did the CGC fix mine works perfect everytime at any setting.

What about the other 50 or so folks still complaining about it.

If they did the factory fix and it didn’t work, they need to open a ticket and say whats next!

Ours is sitting at home waiting for a board... We are in Aus too. Put in a ticket with CGC. We already made an air ball protector over the drop target. This got rid of 80% of the air balls. The original has plenty of air balls too.

image (resized).jpg

Wow. That many huh! There has to be a solution for you so that you dont have to use that. Once they have the software update out you should be able to dial down the flipper coils and eliminate the airball to some degree.

Thanks for that. Sold!

I have played with ramp and adjusted plunger multiple times and done many slow motion videos. At this point i have 90% super skill shot, 5% makes it only to top but doesnt do super skill shot, and 5% comes back down. To me, the problem lies within the ramp. Every time the ball hits the ramp it pops up and moves side to side. If the ball stays far enough right on exit from ramp it does fine. But 10% of time it moves too far left and hits right side of the right playfield ramp. But based on all the slomo videos i have taken the ball movement is random. I think the user who mentioned double sided tape and has right screw tighter than left screw is on to something. Givin the ramp a left to right tilt makes sense. I have bent mine to give some tilt but still not 100%. I havent played the original too many times, but did the ball go around super skill shot 100% of time?

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This is the bend fix they sent me as well. Once I bent it enough the eject has not failed once in two days.

Loosen up both screws and do as I said before... look at your left screw when tighten against the PF, you can see its causing a dip from the reflection. loosen up , add double sided tape, tighten right screwall the way, then tighten lkeft just till you see a dip of any sort then back it off a bit.

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I went back to ramp and tightened right screw as much as possible and loosened left screw to give it a left to right tilt. I will play it more tomorrow, but the few tests tonight seemed improved. I have the plunger centered as much as possible.

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Also using the double sided tape takes up some of the transition gap from the flap to the ramp when you tighten. looks like yours is what i have been talking about. Hope it works.

I will try double sided tape next if this doesnt work. Thanks again for the input.

Bending is a half assed fix. I can't believe they released that as a "repair"

What did you have in mind? I guess they could have sent out new ramps.

The fix is fine. It's precisely the same fix Chris Hutchins (considered one of the top pinball restorers in the world?) suggested for my HEP AFM restoration.

snaroff

This was pretty much my point. I don't mind having to bend something and I understand that is expected for owners, but with the machines under warranty I'm just surprised CGC didn't manufacture some functioning replacements and send us those to install.

If CGC did as you suggest, guess what? Many of you would still have to bend it for it to hit the black chute in the proper place. Many of them mechanisms used by CGC are the original mechs! They haven't been reengineered and suffer from many of the same idiosyncrasies. The folks building these machines should be verifying it all comes together and works properly as a whole.

snaroff

This is the truth we will probably never truly see. (unfortunately) even though it may happen and should, if the remake brand will be successful long term.

yep, but to be honest, I'm more concerned about all the electronics failures. I know a handful of collectors with AFMr and the sum of component failures is disturbing. If the first wave of machines were much more solid, it should be straightforward for CGC to get to the bottom of what "changed". Did they switch board suppliers? Did they forgo testing to build/ship as many machines for the holiday season? Did the firmware/software change? In my case, 2 Solenoid board deaths in the first 25 games was something I've never experienced in my 15+ years as a pinball collector.

I realize the mechanical issues are disturbing to folks new to pinball, but it's normal. Very costly, high-end pinball restorations ship with similar mechanical issues. If it isn't obvious, the reason this happens is games aren't fully play tested (the only REAL way to fully nail some of these issues). The reason they aren't play tested is cost and aesthetics (the restorer or manufacturer doesn't want to pre-dimple your PF

CGC does seem to have their heart in the right place, but it's going to take more than responsive support to fully satisfy folks who didn't signup for all the tweaks and down time. Telling folks to put their flipper power back to "default" for 3 weeks (resulting in nonstop airballs) is equivalent to telling folks to turn the game off for 3 weeks while they figure this out. Not optimal...to be polite.

snaroff

I have a diverter stuck open message on my afmr. Any help in fixing?