NIB AFMr

If I hit the drop target while it's lowering (which happens often), it will stop until the end of the game when it resets completely. Is that normal? Otherwise it functions perfectly.

Sorry if this has been asked - I searched and couldn't find anything.

If you are referring to the 3 target forcefield bank, this doesn't sound normal to me. I've done this plenty of times and it just keeps lowering as it should.

Yes, that's what I mean. Sounds like I should contact CGC.

I've recently purchased a nib amfrse. I'm not sure if my questions are technical or play settings or both.

1. When I shoot the right ramp(atomic blaster) it doesnt register 20% of the time. Mostly on super skill shot, b ut does happen other times.

2. The mulitball/lock ramp takes 6 shots for the second multiball. I'm thinking this is a play setting but not 100%

1 - check the switch - it might not be adjusted for fast shots.

2 - that is normal. Each additional city takes an additional 3 shots to defeat.

Was there any sort of software update/fix for the games that the flippers were wayyyyyy to strong ? I purchased my remake used and it has those issues . I read something on here about not decreasing flipper power as it was ruining MPUs?

Lower their strength in the CGC menu. Page 1-10 in the manual or this video.

LTG : )

Hey All,

I just purchased a NIB AFMrSE this weekend (Jul 2017 build date). It's been a blast so far, and this thread helped me troubleshoot a couple issues (mainly lowering flipper strength to stop the ball lock shot from flying into the outlane drain). However, I am also experiencing something which seems incorrect, but haven't found any comments on it:

I feel like the top left jet bumper doesn't fire appropriately. It's as if its sensitivity is lower than the right and bottom jets....often times the ball will fall onto the left jet bumper, nothing fires, and then it bounces into the right jet bumper which fires. It seems like the left jet bumper should be firing quite a bit more than it does. I don't see any real adjustments in the PIC for this other than increasing the strength for when they DO fire. Any thoughts/suggestions? Is this by design? Am I overanalyzing it?

You likely just need to adjust the gap on the pop bumper switch, it’s a leaf/spoon switch adjustment.

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

Thank you for the answers.....super helpful. I don’t have a leaf switch adjustment tool, so I had to use pliers.....this specific switch is in such a PITA position.....I was able to improve it a bit, but I’m definitely ordering the tool now.

Can't find this anywhere: even at 1 the volume is insanely loud, is there an update or fix for this?

Did you turn down the minimum volume override in Adjustments A.1 #28 ? You can set that to 0 or 1, then use the "-" button on the coin door to lower volume further.

LTG : )

So I was cleaning the playfield and replacing rubbers and it occured to me I had no idea where this part went. Went through all my pics but no joy. Could a kind citizen let me know where to put this part? Thanks in advance.

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Top left corner of the game. On the ramp.

LTG : )

Behind the saucer up there. Hole in the ramp for the screw and hole in the ramp for the tab sticking down. To prevent balls getting there.

LTG : )

I have a LE that I bought used a while back. The Martian on the topper had never worked for me. I finally got around to looking at it and fuses #105 and 106 were blown. (3amps) I only had 2.5 Amp fuses and put those in and they blew upon the game being turned on. I've read there were some issues when they were produced. Any recommendations on where to go or who to contact for support.

Thank you much. Rob

First, what CGC firmware is in your machine? Open the coin door and hild down the service credit button on the inside of the door for 4 seconds to access this menu that should display the software version and playfield firmware version.

F105 and F106 are both for 12v, so the issue is probably somewhere in the lighting, unless it NEEDS 3A Slo blo and the 2.5 (was it slo blo or fast?) you had on hand simply weren't enough..

Rev 1.0 firmware, I'm ordering 3 Amp fuses.

3 Amp SLO BLOW. You don't want regular fuses.

Is your topper enabled in the firmware settings of that menu?

You also want to check the version of the EEPROM in the backbox to ensure you have the one that fixes the critical flaw with the flippers.

SOL 2.0 on the driver eprom should be on the label. Most of them are printed pretty big and plain to see.

But you never know...

I've got fuses ordered. My board has the 1.0 on it.

Do I need to contact Chicago gaming to get updated chip ?

Thanks to all for the help.
Rob

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DEFINITELY contact CGC immediately and have them send you the corrected EEPROM. That version can literally damage your machine.

Fastest way is probably via phone:
(708) 231-1800

He's on it.

LTG : )

Can you dump audits to a USB flash drive on AFMr? This seems common on all the other manufacturers, but I couldn't find anything about it in CGC manuals for their latest remake pins.

No.

LTG : )

Seems like an odd oversight, no?

No. Williams software, which CGC uses, didn't allow for it.

LTG : )

This isn't a clone of Williams code. The software's been updated, I.E. the features can be updated.

turned on my afm for the first time in a few weeks, went to start a game and A) things sounded quiet but B) no ball shot out after hitting start.

What are the steps I should take to troubleshoot the issue? thanks

I'd enable the high power interlock switch on the coin door and run through coil tests. See if you lost a couple or all.

Then check fuses lower right corner of the driver board in the backbox.

LTG : )

Just ran through the solenoid test and the 'trough ejector' gives this pathetic little 'oomp' while all others are nice and strong. Should i still check fuses in backbox or is this point the single failing solenoid test telling me something more specific to look/address ?

I'd pull it's fuse and check with an ohm meter to see if it's partially blown.

Then make sure plunger moves freely. And reseat connector for that coil to where it plugs onto a board.

LTG : )

AFMR-SE Flasher and Saucer chase lights....

OK, I am a tinkerer...and was gonna put some addressable LEDS in various places on the playfield, and decided that the right side flasher would be a nice place to start. I stuck a multimeter pretty deep into the socket to grab voltage and the flasher stayed on solid. I assumed it was the socket itself, no big deal. Did a voltage check at the board...and F*CK. It stays at 12v perpetually. It is on the pcb board on P96-FL16. Am I screwed? It's not the end of the world, but now I look at that mini saucer lit up ALL THE TIME and want to puke.

Also, unrelated but similar...my mothership chase lights crapped out. Is this common? I've not seen a single thread about it. And if so...is it usually just buying the 50 dollar pcb board and swapping out? Sucks not to have that either. I'd say I learned my lesson, but the truth is...I have NOT.

Please check under the board in the saucer to be sure the insulating paper thing is between the metal and the board, so it isn't grounding out.

LTG : )

Electrical Noise/Feedback?

I have an AFMr CE. It's newish to me....

I have a feedback/buzz that comes through the speakers. It seems to be in sync with the back of LEDs.

If I unplug the back box from the boars the noise goes away. But once plugged in the noise is back. I'm certainly not a pro, but seems to be electrical interference of some kind.

I tried putting the back box cable through a isolator thingy that I had but no change at all.(see pic) I tried unplugging each individual LED on the back box but no single one was the culprit.

Any suggestions?

Game is still playable - its just annoying to listen to.

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I have had my classic edition for about a month and it has developed an annoying issue. The right flipper bat randomly sticks after the flipper button is hit. It resets if the flipper button is hit again, but it is effecting play. It does not appear mechanical, since it returns fine by hand. I also noticed I can launch a ball if I hit the right flipper button. Any thoughts?

Swap left and right flipper button opto boards and see if problem moves.

LTG : )

Make sure coil stop is on tight too.

LTG : )

Switching flipper opto boards has no effect. Stops are nice and tight.

Be sure the opto interrupter is clearing the opto beam enough.

A tiny bit of up and down play on the flipper bat (not back and forth ) ?

LTG : )

Sounds like it's sticking and just time for a rebuild. Easy enough, and fairly inexpensive.

Change the backbox dimming levels until it goes away.

circling back on this.. turned out the trough eject coil had bound and was preventing it from doing it's thing. Manually untangled it and all fixed.

Need replacement Martian targets. Are they unique to remakes or can I use the Williams version.
If unique where can I source them.
Thx.

Yes. Same in original and remake.

Remake LE uses translucent ones. Original and other AFM remakes use the opaque ones.

LTG : )

LTG I have the remake. I think you mentioned a bulletin on getting the ball launched smooth into the top. Mine rattles and doesn’t make it up top on launch. Could you let me know where to find the bulletin if it exists?

Thanks
John

No idea if it exists. Watch the ball, if it's hitting the bottom of the wireform, raise it a bit. Be sure the plunger hits the center of the ball.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG!

thanks hope you had a great T-Day!!!