(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

4 years ago

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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by cconway84
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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (4 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (4 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (4 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (4 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (4 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (4 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (4 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (4 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (4 years ago)

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#13 4 years ago

I have an LE on order, and I am VERY excited! Seriously hoping to be in the first batch.

I commissioned a local artist to whip this little guy up. He's keeping things under control on my couch!

2017-05-02 20.03.06 (resized).jpg

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

There will only be one batch of LEs now, so you are in luck. They are going to run all of them starting next week (or maybe this week? The extra week of producing SEs may be done now). If the production stays at 60/week, that will give us all 1000 LEs in 17 weeks.

That is the best news I've heard all week!

Last i heard they had shuffled things around a bit, but it was still going to be a two-part run. Your version is much better!

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

I am just using Doug's post as a guide. It also sounds like they may ramp up to more than 60 per week during this time based on him saying that it should take 3-4 weeks to build 250 MMRs. Counting back from mid November (late estimate to start second round of MMR), we have many weeks of AFMR (guessing minimum 4 since 3 would have probably been written as few instead of many), which would get us back to mid October, then 3-4 weeks for initial MMR batch, would take us back to mid to late September for conclusion of AFMRLE batch. If LEs start next week, that would leave 12-13 weeks for the run of 1000 LEs, which would mean they will be at better than 60 per week. Check my math, but I think that time frame describes Doug's post pretty well. The one variable I don't know yet is where I am on the list. lol

I read that post a little differently. I read it as 150 SEs, then 1000 LEs, but he also refers to a second batch of 1000 games after a first batch of 500. He also refers to taking a break from AFMr to build MMR. I don't necessarily see that as meaning the break will or won't happen "between batches" (IE: 150 SEs and 350 LEs in "Batch 1", then MMR, then 650 LEs and 350 SEs/Standards in "Batch 2". It could just mean that no SEs or Standards will be built until all the LEs are done, and 250 MMRs get built in there somewhere.

Like I said, I like your reading better. That's what I get for doing psycholinguistics in graduate school! lol!

3 weeks later
#134 4 years ago
Quoted from spazzman90:

Feel like I'm outside a velvet rope waiting to get in. Really looking forward to it!

That's it! Ticket in hand, just waiting for the next group to go in.

1 week later
#179 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Waiting on my LE, and just curious to hear from owners how the game feels in respect to build quality.
Also, how is it compared to the original AFM? Had someone tell me the original flows better and feels stronger.
Just interested in hearing from anyone who has received theirs already.

I don't have mine yet, but I've been lucky enough to play on two different SEs on location.

It may be because every original I've ever played has been pretty thoroughly worn, but the remakes both felt REALLY good. Lots of nice power in the flippers, and maybe it was just all the fresh rubber, but it sure seemed to be well-balanced and smooth. In particular, the shaker motor integration was amazing: made the game feel almost like a thrill ride.

Like I said, I've never had the luck to play a HUO game that had been well taken care of, so maybe i was just experiencing the same feeling one gets when you drive the brand new model of the car you've been driving for the last few years, and everything feels awesome just because it has zero wear. In any case, I'm glad I decided to go for the remake rather than hunt around for a nice original.

#180 4 years ago

While I'm waiting to hear something, I'm trying to accurately plan my basement entry strategy. I've got a relatively narrow door, and I'm trying to figure out if I'll need to remove the backbox to the game down the stairs.

Any chance one of you lucky new owners might be willing to put a tape measure on that backbox? Of course, I don't expect you to interrupt a play session, but maybe when you're taking a beer break?

I've scoured the PDF of the manual, and while there are dimensions for the backglass, there's nothing in there that I could find about the actual cabinet.


#182 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

28 1/2 inches wide.
LTG : )

And my door is 29 inches at the narrowest point, in like Flynn!

Thank you!

1 week later
#242 4 years ago
Quoted from Join_The_Cirqus:

Game is amazing!!!!!
Glad To be an Enabler

That is one seriously impressive row!

#258 4 years ago

Do I see some Moto Glass custom toppers?

3 weeks later
#475 4 years ago

Finally in the club! LE 186 made it home!

2017-08-29 14.31.21 (resized).jpg

#542 4 years ago

No flipper delay here either, although I did break a spring on one side, so the reset was slow. (BTW, BIG "Thank you!!!" to Lloyd for helping me with a quick field fix while I wait for a new spring!)

#561 4 years ago

Setup update:

Got ol' 186 out of the box and into the basement.

I removed the backbox to get it through the narrow basement door, which turned out to be extremely easy: 1 wood screw holding in the big cable sheath (be careful putting it back in), 1 ethernet connector, a couple of Molex connectors (for the speakers), and a bunch of PCB connectors.

I think I got them all in the attached pic. In any case, the majority of the connectors are in two large bundles that join into the big sheath, and they held their shape well enough that it only took a few glances at the pictures I took to make sure everything was back where it belonged.

I shoved everything into the main cabinet, and removed the sleeve nuts from the inside of the cab so I could remove the carriage bolts that hold the backbox on. Be careful: there is a small plastic spacer/washer between the backbox flange and the cabinet side. Getting that thing back into place was the hardest part of the whole adventure.

Naturally, replacing everything is the reverse of taking it apart.

Once it was set up, I put in a set of new balls from Marco's, as I have heard nothing good about balls that come with games. Maybe these are fine, but I had the new ones, and it's under five bucks.

After messing around a bit, I settled on 7.4 degrees, which seemed to give a nice balance. It was fast, and the game seemed to flow really well.

3 days and 290 plays later (new game!), I noticed some dust in an in-lane, so i decided to clean the playfield and give it a coat of wax.

Holy smokes! At 7.4 degrees with new wax, this thing just FLIES! I may actually shallow it out a bit, we'll see how the regular crowd reacts to it.

Over the course of four days, I have to say, I was really surprised at how much "settling in" the game has done. At first, it seemed like there were a few rattles here and there in some of the mechs, but everything seems to be on a trajectory toward being more solid and stable.

The one exception is that there is a bit of rattle on the playfield glass. I'm going to try the electrical tape trick and see how that works.

afmr-backbox removal connectors (resized).jpg

#563 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I adjusted the lockdown bar on mine so that the beer seal would compress and keep the glass from rattling, it took care of the issue.

I have to admit, I'm not sure what a Beer Seal is. Would you please elaborate? I'd love to do what you did. It seems small words would be appropriate.

#568 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

Oh, Ok, I get it now! That makes total sense, I'm sure mine wasn't adjusted either. I'll give it a shot, as the lockbar kind of feels a bit high anyway.

I have definitely witnessed the escaping glass. It's a little alarming at first, to be sure.

Thanks much!

#572 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

Aaaaaaand... That did it! Thanks again!

1 week later
#628 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Ok, so I finally got around to aligning my flippers to remove the droop that was noticeable from the factory and ... WOW! what a huge difference this small adjustment made to the way the game plays, my first game after making the adjustment was 30B! Unfortunately, this also changed the timing needed to make consecutive rams and orbits needed to score the 5-Way Combo, and with three balls remaining, I was unable to complete this and it's needed to start RTU I may have just choked under pressure
If you have never adjusted a flipper before, all you have to do is loosen the 3/8" nut that secures the flipper paddle around 3/4 turn, align the flipper to be in a straight line with ball guide, and tighten it back up. You will want to make sure you retain the proper gap (vertical play) by feel or with the blue alignment tool; this tool is actually clear with blue translucent protective tape covering it, feel free to remove the tape

Another great tip! I hadn't even really noticed the droop, and I admit, it was a bit daunting doing the adjustment for the first time. Like most "just do it" experiences, though, the learning was enough to overcome the scary, and now I feel like I'm going to be messing with it quite a lot, 'cause I'm sure I'll be looking super closely all the time to see if they're even a fraction of a degree apart from each other.

It's a great improvement!

#631 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

AFMr - Drooping Drop Bank
Not a big deal, but the drooping drop bank on my new AFMr tweaks my OCD compulsion. It's leaning to the right...and it makes me crazy
The assembly has a good degree of slop allowing for this alignment issue; I can easily rock the assy left and right. There does not appear to be any stop or adjustment screws to improve this condition.
Any suggestions to address or minimize?
My OCD brain thanks you in advance.

If you figure something out, please let me know!

On a related topic, my drop bank stopped dropping. During normal play, it would register hits, but never drop.

It failed the startup test, as well as the motor test (test 19).

Motor test failing
Startup test report

I lifted the playfield and wiggled some stuff, and got it back for a while. Sadly it was only a temporary solution. Since I've got a fancy new warranty, I figured I'd open a ticket, not expecting that I would get a response before Monday morning. Whatever they're paying LTG, it isn't enough. On a Sunday night, I got a response back about 10 minutes after submitting the ticket, suggesting I completely re-seat the connector for the down switch:

It's the lower connector in this picture:
2017-09-10 19.35.09 (resized).jpg

One of the crimp connections to one of the sockets felt a bit loose compared to the other ones, but a full disconnect-and-reconnect seemed to do the trick.

If it happens again, I'll replace that crimp connection.

2017-09-10 19.37.07 (resized).jpg

As always, a big "Thank You!" to Lloyd!

#702 4 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Has anyone used it in a tournament yet? How are the mystery scoop awards handled? Thank you.

If you mean Tournament Mode, I tried it out. Every SOL award was 50,000,000 points. Every single one.

I didn't like it.

It may well be that I just didn't get far enough for anything else to show up, but that's all I ever got.

#741 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Weird....I had a spare and popped it in...flippers nice and smooth....I play it most evenings, so will find out if it's reoccurring or not pretty quick....doubt it.

Same thing happened to me on the evening of day 2. Since this is my first non-EM pin, my spares drawer is pretty bare. Lloyd sent me an awesome tutorial on how to bend a new hook in the part of the spring that was left, and that got me through until the replacement showed up.

#742 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Don't feel bad...right there with you....just walked away from the damn thing...a definite love hate relationship at the moment. My timing on this game just sucks right now.....machine is awesome, however...very, very glad I grabbed one..

Me too. There have been a couple of sessions where I have set a new personal best, and then minutes later discovered just how low it is possible to score.

A near miss on just about any shot seems to lead to a warp-speed drain, and there appear to be magnets in the outlanes.

My high score is just over 8B, and I've accomplished all the goals, just not in the same game.

On the other hand, making progress is SO satisfying!

#768 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Second note to self- hoping to make it to expo and see Lloyd again, personally thank him, and buy him a steak, adult beverage, or whatever he may choose. He and I have been through repair battles on several of my machines. I would not have nearly the confidence to work on these things if it wasn't for him.....

Once again, Lloyd is Da Man.

I can't imagine he buys a lot of his own adult beverages these days.

#794 4 years ago

Another LE in black here. I'd say mine is on the "glossy" end of the "semi-gloss" spectrum. I went this way simply because I ordered an Alien LE in green, and in my modest collection, that's a lot of green.

Honestly, I probably should have gone the other way, since the Alien green seems to be lot lighter and brighter than the Martian Green, and there's a lot more of it on Alien. That said, the black looks gorgeous on AFM.

#797 4 years ago

Question for y'all...

This has happened once in a while, but just now happened about six times in a row:

The force field is down, the callouts indicate that the saucer is one shot from being destroyed. A shot goes right up the middle and disappears... And I get awarded a lock. Twice just now I managed to actually get awarded the multiball for three successive shots to the saucer. Before I open a ticket, is this normal behavior?

#802 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

There's a wire gate in the lock/ saucer subway that can get stuck up or bent ... which can cause this issue. Check it out...

Cool, thanks! I'll check it out.

#804 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

There's a wire gate in the lock/ saucer subway that can get stuck up or bent ... which can cause this issue. Check it out...

Found the solution!

Thanks to bigd1979's suggestion, I looked at the underside of the lock/saucer subway, and found that the trough switch had lost a screw, and therefore wasn't registering, thus confusing the game as to where the ball had come from. I found the screw in the speaker cone, and replaced it.
Missing screw
The trick is that there is an adjustment on this switch, and I found it needed to be in the "tightest" configuration, where it was most sensitive.
2017-09-23 21.25.00 (resized).jpg
It looks like all is now well. Hopefully this will help if anyone in the future experiences the same symptoms.

1 week later
#870 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Has anyone played around with the userlogo on their AFMr?

2017-10-01 21.09.07 (resized).jpg

One of my best friends' brother in-law is a famous graphic designer. My friend commissioned him to make me a custom logo for my arcade as a Christmas present a while back.

#879 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'm not noticing any flipper delay.

Me neither.

2 weeks later
#947 4 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Classic - $6500
Special - $7300
Limited - $8000

Yeah, the impression I've gotten is that CGC isn't letting the dealers discount.

#948 4 years ago

The game was really kicking my butt. Lots of airballs and warp speed SDTM drains. So I played with the flipper strength, as a number of owners have advised, and it's much better now. I'm actually hitting al my shots with a LOT more accuracy. It seems also like the ball doesn't pick up as much spin as it did with the flipper strength set higher.

A weird thing, though: at one point I set the strength to MIN at one point, just to see, and the right flipper didn't move AT ALL. I figure that can't be right. Any suggestions as to what I can look for?

3 months later
#3222 3 years ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

I was playing AFMr tonight and scored 10 billion and change on my first ball. Completed almost everything needed to get to rule the universe. Yep, I thought I was well on my way to a new grand champion score. Two balls later and I didn’t even make it to 11 billion, son of a b****. I love this game but man that’s just not cool.

What you have just experienced is what I like to call "Attack From Mars".

The same thing happened to me today, although it was 4.5B on ball one, then about 4.6B final score. I also didn't get too close to RTU.

Seriously, though, thank you for sharing, I'm glad it's not JUST me!

1 week later
#3577 3 years ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

Need some help. This game has given me nothing but problems first of all since I’ve had it. Anybody know how to fix my problem. Sometimes when I hit the saucer hole it gives me a locked ball instead of destroying saucer. Tried stuff can’t get it to fix. So damn frustrating.

I had the same issue. Lloyd is right, you need to look at the switch on the subway. I posted some pics of the offender in post 804 in this thread.

Hope this helps!

Also, For what it's worth, after a few hundred plays, my game has almost entirely settled down. I had a few gremlins at first, but they seem to have gotten bored and moved on. Hopefully this will happen for you as well.

1 week later
#4422 3 years ago

Hi all -

Just reporting on a small issue that's come up.

I just installed PIC 2.0 into my LE, and I honestly can't remember if it was doing this before or not, but my speaker lights are now only showing various shades of green in interactive mode, and interestingly, won't turn off when I select "Off" in the menu.

I've opened a ticket (Hi, Lloyd!), and will report the outcome back here.

Here is a quick video showing the problem:

#4454 3 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

PIC 2.0 does not affect the lighting.

I know. It was a coincidence. I just wasn't sure if it was happening before I was messing around in the backbox.

#4463 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Likely something just came partially unplugged when you were in the backbox. I'd just open it back up and check all the connections again carefully.

That was step one. I'm starting to think I've got a bad board.

I'll make sure to let everyone know how this works out.

I was in a very early batch of LEs, and 2000 plays in, I've had VERY few issues, mainly involving things vibrating loose in shipping and some minor setup issues. It's kind of depressing to see how upset people are getting, justifiably or not. I'm hoping this ends up being a (small) success story to add to the mix.

#4575 3 years ago

Oh, man!

So, here's what I have to say:

1) Got a new board from CGC. Fixed the speaker LED/Undercab lighting issue. I have all the colors now. On the down side, I lost all of my high scores and all of my settings. No worries, I can fix all that.

2) Got the green Titan kit. I'll post pics when I get it installed. I kind of think the gitd might have been the better move.

3) No fob with LE 186, which was a pre-order, delivered in August of 2017. I am now sad...

That's all for now...

1 week later
#4667 3 years ago

One more in the chorus: I pre-ordered LE 186, and have had a couple of relatively minor issues. Most of them were things lke prematurely broken flipper return springs, and adjustment issues. Most recently, I had to get a replacement board due to some funky lighting action. In all cases, CGC, Arturo and Lloyd were all great.

I can't see any issues with my playfield, and I'm not going to get out my magnifying glass to make sure.

I am really happy with my game, but also disturbed at what appears to be CGC's response to more major issues.

I'm still looking forward to the next announcement, and actually kind of hoping it's a title I am a little less excited about. My budget could use a year off after AFM and Alien, and I'd also like to see how CGC evolves with regard to their support policies on the next round.

1 week later
#4822 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The most brutal one on the machine here is missing the lock ramp and having the ball roll back out of the lane next to the center targets and right out the right outlane.

Ah, yes, the shot that, more than any other has caused me to "just walk away"...

#4825 3 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

I always give a little nudge if it is rolling out of that lock, always keeps it away from the right outlane.

This works well most of the time at keeping it out of the outlane, but I often find it dumps it into the right sling. Often the results are the same.

The solution, of course, is to just make the shot in the first place!

3 weeks later
#4979 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just finished an epic game (for me).
Made it to RTU for the first time!
25 billion points.
It took me a year to do it.
It was well worth the wait.
Amazing experience!
Thank you CGC for making this amazing game available to us.

Congrats! Still hunting for that particular white whale, myself.

#5023 3 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Mezelmods is making a building to cover the VUK. This is just the prototype so it will have more detail. We have other mods coming to so look for my thread soon.

Ooooooh, that looks nice!

3 weeks later
#5152 3 years ago

Thinking about a couple of mods for LE #186, I'd love to hear what peoples' experience has been:

1) Invisiglass - Seems like a pretty nice upgrade.

2) Pingraffix Powerblades. I like the design, and feel like they really fit in with the existing artwork. The tough part is that the mirror blades in the LE are already pretty cool. What I'm not completely clear on is if the mirror blades need to be removed first, or if the Powerblades go on over the top (minus the bolt heads, of course). If the mirror blades are removed, are they a standard size and shape? If I pull the trigger, I may want to keep them around and install them into another game down the road.


#5162 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

My game is really loud even with the min volume override turned on. Is there another option to reduce volume b/c right now at 2, it's loud!

Sounds like you might need to open a ticket. Set below 3, mine is at a very comfortable late-night volume. The sounds of the coils are much louder than the sound effects at that point. Above 6 and stuff in the room starts rattling.

#5227 3 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello, does anyone know if I can buy an AFMR LE Topper and put it on my AFMR SE? Thanks

Quoted from LTG:

Go into your CGC menu and see if the topper software is in there. If so then all you need is the topper and small board for the head and harnesses.
LTG : )

Good point. If you manage to find a topper for sale on the secondary market, make sure to get the topper board as well, since it's not in the plywood box the topper comes in, it's bolted into the backbox.

2018-05-26 17.08.38 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#5316 3 years ago
Quoted from Bricarus:

Anyone know or have an idea of how many of these remakes where made/sold?

You mean so far? Pretty sure they're still cranking them out. If they've stopped for a break, I suspect they will start up again as demand dictates. That's how it happened with #MM.

I think all 1000 LEs are spoken for, or at least in the hands of distributors.

1 month later
#5675 3 years ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

So,.. Dirty Pool is a genuine play?? I have had this twice, and thought it was a code bug where the ball got lost, and the force field wasn't dropped as the code didn't know it was trapped. So I did the cannon thing against the force field to get the ball in the mothership hole, as was too lazy to take the glass off

It's genuine all right. It's a call back to TAF, which has a "Dirty Pool" callout around the bookcase. AFM also has an animation for it. It just flashes "DIRTY POOL" a couple of times, but it's there.

#5715 3 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I want to get Titan rubbers but am confused which will look the best. I have an AFMR LE with green trim. I am thinking red will pop nicely, any suggestions?

I have an LE in black, and I went with green Titans, thinking there was a lot of red and warm colors on the game so the green would pop.

I now actually think the right choice would have either been red or glow-in-the-dark. The glowy ones are the typical glow-in-the-dark color in normal light, which actually looks really cool on the game.

If you go red, you won't go wrong.

#5720 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

That's for originals not remakes just a heads up .
Not sure there is a difference but they have them listed separately

I'm pretty sure the wiring connectors are different. A clever owner with a well-stocked spares box could make it happen, I'm sure.

2 weeks later
#5817 3 years ago
Quoted from ctviss:

I'll be joining you guys soon! I have an SE on order from PinballSTAR and it should be shipping early next week! It will look great next to my BK2K.
Does anyone have any tips on setting it up? This will be my first NIB pinball machine.
I'll probably put on the PinBits fluorescent plastic protectors after I test the game out, and I might install the drop-target and shooter/ball eject Cliffys - those seem to stand out less than the others and not cover any artwork; I'm sure the SOL and mothership holes will be fine with the factory Mantis-style protectors.

I would strongly suggest the Cliffy treatment for the Mothership and force field. After about 4,000 plays, the only spot I saw noticeable wear was on the Mothership hole, and the plywood there had gotten pretty soft. Did the factory start putting a protector on there? Mine didn't come with one, but my LE was from an early batch, as far as I can tell. As for the force field, the Cliffy actually looks quite natural, and blends in with the art nicely. As an added bonus: prior to putting in the Cliffy, I would occasionally have a ball stick in the groove where the target bank had dropped. It happened enough that I had a standard practice to get it loose. With the Cliffy, that behavior has been reduced by about 90%.

So far, the SOL hole is looking good, but I've got the Cliffy waiting in the wings (by "wings" I mean the coin box) for the day when I can see wear.

Otherwise, the setup is pretty painless, and for most folks it's fine out of the box: just clean the oil off of the balls and have at.

Some people (me included) find the flipper droop to be a bit weird, and then there is the eternal outlane struggle.

You've got a great game on the way, have fun with it!

#5823 3 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Has anyone set their flippers so that they do not droop, and if so did it change the shot angles in a good way or a bad way?

I set them so the tops of the bats are in-line with the flipper ball guides. It was a change of MAYBE three degrees, but now that I say it, that seems like a lot. It feels way better to me, though. The only drawback I've found is that when I play on location, it takes me a while to adjust.

Who am I kidding, I look like a complete idiot, since everyone I'm with knows I own one!

1 week later
#5857 3 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Put some pingrafix powerblades in tonight.
Amazing[quoted image]

Those look beautiful! If my LE didn't already have mirror blades, I'd be going for those. Do you have some video of the animation?

#5864 3 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Put some pingrafix powerblades in tonight.
Amazing[quoted image]


#5876 3 years ago
Quoted from fish1975tx:

Request permission to come aboard!
[quoted image]

Permission granted, welcome aboard! You're gonna have a great time!

1 month later
#6020 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Decently new to Pinball...so quick question. Is post passing fairly difficult on this pin? I can post pass no problem on my IMDN, but the ball follows a much different path when I try and post pass on AFMr. Just want to know if post-passing is/isn't feasible depending on the pin...

In my experience, post passing can vary depending on the design of the game, flipper angle, material and age of the rubber parts, etc.

#6039 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

OK...so, just curious, on your AFM are you able to post-pass reliably?

Indeed I am.

1 month later
#6289 2 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Yes. I ordered the Cliffy’s Dec 24. Still waiting on them. I guess he is super busy.

My experience with Cliff is that he is a supremely nice guy, makes a wonderful product, and is a one-man show. He bends every single bit of sheet metal himself. You'll get a great product, but it will require patience. It will absolutely be worth the wait!

1 week later
#6343 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I just completed rule the universe for the first time and I had to share it with someone who would care. New GC with 21.2B on my home AFMRLE. I bought it a year and a half ago? Damn that was fun. [quoted image]

Congrats! I've been wistfully glaring at TEX for about a year and a half as well, but I suspect it will be a while longer before I can match your accomplishment!

#6356 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Remake NIB owners. Did all versions of the game come with the manual?

My LE did. That's all I can offer.

#6372 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

Today was a good day!
[quoted image]

Yes, indeed it was! Welcome to the club!

3 weeks later
#6451 2 years ago

After several months, I finally completed a bunch of construction in my basement, and was able to level my LE, re-set the flippers back to the factory angle, and close up the outlanes.

For the first time, I managed to get all six of the blue lights lit and was aiming for the SOL scoop to start RTU when I drained the last ball. So close, and yet... So close...

2 weeks later
#6521 2 years ago
Quoted from BBC:

Hi guys, quick question. Did the nib games come with a goodie bag or anything? I just got an LE and all it has with it is the manual and coin box. Thanks in advance!!

Mine didn't. I had to order a key fob.

2 weeks later
#6548 2 years ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Picked up an AFMR Classic from TPF this weekend, been playing fine but noticed something new tonight. When the force field has been down for a while during an attack wave, sometimes the martians will start jumping and the forcefield will go up. It will go right back down, the martians will stop jumping and the attack wave will continue like nothing happened. Any idea what's going on there?

That sounds like a ball search.

#6551 2 years ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Ok, now that you mention it bet that’s what it was. We were testing lower flipper power at the time and cradling longer than usual to do so but were shooting at just the right time to make it look like it was an intermittent thing, thanks!

It truly was the least I could do.

#6560 2 years ago
Quoted from Red_Devils:

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys I really appreciate it! Modding is done for the day, I changed all the rubbers except under the rear ramp plastic like way2wyrd said, I also added Lermods under-cab lighting and backboard/trough combo lights, flipper decals and the decal for the force field. I feel proud of myself even though it took me all day. Next up will be the pingraffix powerbladez which I also picked up from TPF, I love this machine
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work, looks great!

1 month later
#6775 2 years ago
Quoted from ausretrogamer:

I don’t recall having to cut anything. The topper connection should plug in without the need of cutting pins etc.

Back in the early days there were a few games that went out with the pin un-cut.

To make the cut, I would use a small pair of diagonal cutters and snip it as close to the base as I could get.

2 months later
#7171 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have an LE and the topper is still in the wooden box lol.
I never installed it.
I may some day, but for now I dont need it.

Mine was in the box for about a year and half before I could get my game into its permanent location.

It adds a lot more to the gameplay than I thought it would, and that Martian looming over everything is definitely a major presence on my pin row.

#7178 2 years ago
Quoted from Fizz:

So what does everyone feel is a good score on this game?
My highest so far is 11.4 billion. But for the most part, I'm feeling like anything over 4 billion is a pretty solid game. And anything over 2 billion is at least decent. What do you guys think?
I also have lots of games well under a billion.
I haven't ruled the universe yet, or even conquered mars. So I have a long way to go to beat this game.
But I'm just talking about in general, games where you don't rule the universe, what's a solid score in your opinion?

Personally, my "floor" is destroying the first 2 saucers. That usually means I've hit around 2 billion, and I won't be mad at myself.

A "decent" game is around 4-5 billion.

A "good" game is 8-10 billion.

A "breakout" game is anything above 10 billion. At the moment, it takes about 11-12 to get on the leaderboard.

My PB is 17 billion. I managed to light RTU, then got so excited and distracted by that blue insert next to the SOL scoop that I promptly drained my last ball after horribly misreading a dead bounce, so TEX is still The Man on my machine.

#7182 2 years ago
Quoted from Fizz:

I love how this game always makes me feel like all of the goals are within reach. But then pulls it right out from me.

Exactly this. I suspect that once I'm reliably Ruling the Universe, the game is still gonna be in my collection. I'm sure it's gonna feel like it's letting me win just enough to keep me from getting too confident.

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