(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

2 years ago



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  • 520 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 245 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (2 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (2 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (2 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #494 LCD screen info Posted by spazzman90 (2 years ago)

Post #639 workaround - to drooping shield targets Posted by markp99 (2 years ago)

Post #1966 Info on Easter eggs Posted by bigd1979 (2 years ago)

Post #2062 cliffy saucer install. Posted by PDFVT (2 years ago)

Post #2201 Urgent attention to flipper strength rates message from CGC Posted by NeilMcRae (2 years ago)

Post #2952 speaker lights for AFMR classic Posted by Lermods (2 years ago)

Post #3001 SOL PIC Posted by Damien (2 years ago)

Post #3167 Picture of crazed plastics defect on AfMr Posted by Onwallst (2 years ago)

Post #3174 list of issues Posted by Onwallst (2 years ago)


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#914 2 years ago

Attack From Mars LE #267 reporting for duty! I must say the light show is second to none! Rick/CGC have made a statement with this one that is received loud and clear: why would you need to have an original AFM when you can own one of these! I want to thank you guys on this thread for helping me with the unboxing and the setting up of the machine Epecially with my low ceiling issues.

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#915 2 years ago

In dealing with my low ceiling issue, I made a small modification in the the ceilng just above the topper alien’s head
I used a inch and a half hole saw (saved the plug of sheet rock) then beveled the hole with a utilily knife It ends up looking like a shadow of a saucer above the alien all the while allowing him to move without contacting the ceiling. ( now i just hope my wife doesnt notice...)

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#919 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Hah, my ceiling is about that exact same height. No holes for me. I disabled the Martian in settings, but still enjoy the light show.

Awe come on man! That topper coupled with the flipper sounds when you touch it will make you jump! It's Awesome!
It's easy to fix that hole in the sheetrock. You just stuff the piece you removed back in and spackel it up, little paint and gone!

#938 2 years ago

After playing for a couple of days we were getting balls flying of the right return ramp into the drain after a lock activation and lots of air balls. (too Fast) so I turned down my flipper coils to Min. That nailed it and it didn't slow the game down too much. I also was getting rejects when the shooter would launch the ball. Tried everything from alignment of the coil to upping the strength even tweeking the leveling. I finally got that resolved by dropping the coil strength to Min also. It seems the games come with everything turned way up. I had turn down the GI and insert lights (just too much) Playing perfect now.

#942 2 years ago

I have Prosound in the other four games I have and the Pyle sound system in that AFM LE just blows them away! (nothing to do with the Prosound kit it's the old wpc 95 wav boards) Just no comparison!

#950 2 years ago

I set mine to min no issues like that

#951 2 years ago

I had a green under cabinet kit. Decided to install it on AFMLE hopeing that I could figure out a way to hook it up interactive. I found that the speaker led kits use 12v so I tapped in to the yellow (pos) and the black (neg) on the right speaker led pod
Boy what nice light show! Flashing the green glow interactively Especially when your playing. I have not experienced an under cabinet light show like before on a pinball machine.

#953 2 years ago

The green was my choice and it flashes with the game. Everytime I get atomic blaster it lights and it pulses when you destroy the saucer.

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#956 2 years ago

Thanks, Feel free to pm me on pics on the install and the wire connections.

#963 2 years ago

OK Guys Here it is Cabinet light show 2.0! I got all 5 colors in synch with the colors in the game. PM me and I will send you the video.
I cant post a video on here. I will put up pics of the install.

#964 2 years ago

Here are the pics of the install. A couple of things: tap into the speaker led pod plug. You will need a 12v 5 color led strip that uses ground for activation (full time 12v signal) yellow is the positive (in the plug) green wire for green led red wire for red led and blue wire for blue led. It looks fabulous!

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#965 2 years ago

Here are pics of the colors

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#967 2 years ago

I turned on the lights for these pictures. It really looks stunning with the lights down! I was surprised that I got all 5 colors. I figured I just get blue green and red. The game is in total control of the color changes just like the speaker leds.

#969 2 years ago

When you play it certain things that you do in the game has a color. Like Atomic blaster building is blue. Big O Beam is white.
Attacking saucers or cities is red. Martian Attack is Green. Destroy the saucer is a light show of all the colors. Also Jackpots trigger a light show. Its much better in action!

#970 2 years ago

Here is a link to the video

#971 2 years ago

The LED strip kit I used is a 5050 RGB kit 12v (constant power) switched ground (activates the LEDs) You can get these on Ebay item number 302383732527. They are about 12 bucks. The kit comes with a remote. It is not needed since the game controls the LEDs.

#972 2 years ago

Thanks to everyone from (Facebook) "Pinball Enthusiasts" for thumbs up on this project!

#1001 2 years ago
Quoted from racecar85:

estion for you guys adding interactive undercab lighting. Where is the source of this lighting signal. I have a classic with an RGB main saucer, but no speaker lights. I'd like to tie in the undercab lighting to the saucer, just not sure where the saucer is getting its color changing signal. Thanks for any

It’s this plug. (See pics) the yellow is 12v positive blue green and red are the switched negatives that turn on the leds. Use a dvm to verify.

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#1002 2 years ago

You guys that have standards should be able to go right off the board with the under cabinet lighting. It would nice to do a piggy back plug for J8. (for LE) Check with Marco for the right plugs.

#1004 2 years ago

It's the same one Mark. I had to change out of that original strip remember. That black one was the wrong polarity. You need to just take an Exacto knife or equivalent and just scrape off that rubber coating to get to the pads. Make sure you scratch those pads real good before you tint them with soldier. Then tint the pads and wires to just soldier them together. It works real good and doesn't overheat the strip. You can cut off that strip where ever you need at those dividers. Some guys staple them to the bottom which gives a nice neat look. You can also use some zip screws and large plastic washers (hardware store). Just make sure you don't put a screw through the strip!

#1005 2 years ago

Once you get that thing going post up the pics!

#1008 2 years ago

What a light show! Nice Job!

#1015 2 years ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Us folk down here in Australia just received emails asking for final payment! Container could be on its way as early as next week

Post up some pics when you get it!

#1020 2 years ago

Here is my video on both the interactive cabinet lighting (that coinsides with the game play) and the interactive saucer lighting (that coinsides with the topper lighting.

#1025 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I’m confused on the interactive cabinet lighting. It looks the undercab lighting is static, always on and just changing when the speaker lights change. It would be better to tie your undercab lights to the topper lights, that would really be interactive

When you play the game you see that the lighting for the speakers coinsides with modes in the game. You cant get anymore interactive that! The topper just flashes randomly. There is nothing static about the cabinet lighting.

#1026 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Even your cat seems to be enjoying it!

She loves that game! You would think that she run out there with hair on fire.

#1028 2 years ago

Frankmac's video is Rock Custom.

#1036 2 years ago

That's good news for all of us!

#1038 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

You can get more interactive, you can tap off the flashers circuit via the board. You basically need the equivalent of a piggyback/splitter. My guess is what you did to tap off the speaker rgb, you could do the same for the flashers in the game. What you’ve done is nice, not trying to be critical, just noting another possible way.

. If you tap into the flasher circuits all you are going to get is more flashing lights. You can call that more interactivity if you like it’s just not so in my book. Interactivity is the software controlling the lights this is clearly evident when colors of the lights coinside with game modes.

#1040 2 years ago

Nice Job! that looks awesome!

#1042 2 years ago

Yeah just check it out. I'm not saying that everyone should have the same opinion. I just find myself looking for what the lighting does when I enter certain modes because the changes in color light up the room. Like when I attack the mother ship everything goes RED! Or when I get a piece for the Atomic Blaster everything goes blue. Then the saucers that I lit up, work with the topper so they sometimes flash completely different colors then the cabinet and the topper (cant really figure out why the colors are different then the topper colors, but anyway) I am waiting on parts to hook up a second saucer because the topper has two separate sides and I want a lit saucer for each side so their lighting will oppose and bounce from each other.

#1043 2 years ago

Here is the three way cable I made up that allows for a plug and play for either under cabinet lighting (controlled by the game) or a flashing saucer lighting (controlled by the topper board) the connectors the game uses at the speaker led pods and the topper leds are identical ( 4 pin square . 062) The wire colors and positions are the same as well. I got my connectors from Marco Specialties You should be able to get them from anyone that sells electronic components

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#1045 2 years ago

Those are Trendmasters Mars Attacks movie toys. You can find them on Ebay from time to time. There is one on ebay now item number 112614753091
32 bucks Just know that once you get it you have to take the screws out so you can split the saucer and put in the LED strip. Its pretty easy.

#1048 2 years ago

WOW! How long has it been in service? Any issues?

#1050 2 years ago

That's good to hear!

#1051 2 years ago

Anyone have any idea if there are any LEs left? Have a friend that was looking for one and said he could not find one.

#1054 2 years ago

Thanks guys!

#1078 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Thanks for posting that image. I think I'm still a fan of warm white on AMFr.

Yep same here.

#1095 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Already on it. My 4-pin connectors/contacts arrived from GPE this week.
I'll first be tapping into the Topper LED strips to see how I like it, with more RGB effects (fading/color switching, etc.) than the speaker LEDs provide. If its too *busy*, I'll back off to using the speaker LED connector.
Yay, weekend project

Tapping into the topper connections can also be done with the Lermods kit. The topper connection (4 pin square .062 and is the same as the speaker LEDs with the same wire colors and positions) will give you more flashing and still have interactivity of the game. I used the topper connections for my Saucer mod. The topper connection has two sides. Either side will light the under cabinet LEDs.

#1099 2 years ago

check your leveling. This game is really sensitive to side to side leveling. I have my back to front angle at 6.5 degrees also. My SOL almost always delivers to the left flipper if not to the rail. If your leveling is good, Try turning down the setting a notch. ( I had to turn down the flippers and the ball launch coil) Lastly tilt the playfield and try adjusting the coil bracket a bit.

#1102 2 years ago

I think your Beer cup is too big!

#1104 2 years ago

Y yes that's why you have a Beer Seal under the lockbar to keep that Big Gulp cup a Beer from runin down into your game shorting out and starting a fire and burnin down your house then spreading to the neighbor's house and to gas station on the corner. Then after the detonation and flattening the bowling alley where that MM that you really like playing will wasted in the street.... and all because of that missing beer seal!

#1114 2 years ago

Ace Hardware has the ones you want. Ask for extra thick nylon washers. The only have white.

#1115 2 years ago

Installed they look like this

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#1119 2 years ago

Since they are plastic you can paint them. Black, Green ect... I would just paint the area seen not compressed once they are installed.

#1121 2 years ago

how many plays on your game?

#1124 2 years ago

Thanks guys. I have been monitoring mine pretty close and nothing so far. Im in for about 300 plays now.

#1133 2 years ago

You made a good choice! You wont be disappointed .

#1138 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I get an occasional mis-registered shot to the saucer hole - registers as a ball lock. Maybe 1 or 2 out of 10 hits.
Had assumed it was the ball hitting the wrong switch.
Not sure exactly what to look for down in the hole as an adjustment

Yeah this has happened to me once so far. I am going to check the drop target switch and see if it might just be barely making sometimes. That switch has to be made and the ball has to make the switch inside the hole to destroy the saucer.

#1139 2 years ago

Ok so I checked both switches. The target switch was fine. The subway switch was making late so I adjusted the sensitivity up some. Now it makes almost immediately. I am thinking that should do it for you guys also.

#1155 2 years ago

I wonder if it might have become dislodged during shipping (Topper Box). My topper box was very loose due to the top of the game box caving in at the front.
The only thing that was holding the topper box on was a single nylon strap.

#1177 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Finally finished under-cab lighting

Looks good Mark!

#1178 2 years ago
Quoted from Captain_Howdy:

Hi Guys
This is my first post on pinside, so be gentle
3 days ago i got AFMre from Ministry of Pinball in Holland
All arrived in very nice condition, but when i started the game it just flashed quickly and the fuse of the room went out, and it looks like it did the same on the AFMre
Both the T5L was burnt
Now im about to replace the T5L, but i cant find any here in Sweden
I can only find T5A
See the pictures
So my question is - Are they the same?
i googled a bit, but got no clear info on this
Many Thanks

Sounds like something got messed up on the conversion. Hope you get this problem solved quickly.

#1220 2 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

I'm blown away by the new SE. It is in a different class of anything I have owned. The display, the sound and the customization is mind blowing.
However, there are two issues I wanted to ask some of you about.
1.) There is a ball launch issue. About half the time, or slightly less, the ball, when launched, bounces around at the end of the drop before making the turn into the jet bumpers. This is pretty annoying, as the ball just simply drains down the right orbit and never gives an opportunity for the jet bumper bonus much less the super skill shot when it happens. Anyone have any ideas?
2.) I am getting a LOT of airballs. Like, a LOT. I have the flippers running at -3 and my rake is set to 6.7.
Other than these two knocks, the game is a wonder to behold. Even my wife was impressed, and that is a minor miracle. I'd love to hear your thoughts.

I had both of those issues. Try turning down the launch coil to Min. Turn down the flipper strength to Min also. I corrected these two by those adjustments. Make sure your game is dead nuts side to side level. My angle is 6.5 degrees. There are still air balls but they are more normalized.

#1225 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

What shots are causing airballs? Random? Do the airballs usually lead to drains? Like hopping over an inlane/outlane divider?
I have one on order and hope this is possible to minimize with some adjustments. Maybe the flippers or flipper rubber need adjusting?
Curious,
snaroff

The most common is the Lightning lock shot! This is the absolute perfect shot to enable the lock. That ball goes so fast up the right return ramp that it just flies to the drain! I have had an occasional side air ball that lands the ball in the shooter lane. I found that turning my flipper power to Min stopped most of it but not all!

#1233 2 years ago

Thanks for posting that. I will make that adjustment and turn up that coil.

#1234 2 years ago

Hopefully CGC will take notice of this issue and make an adjustment at the factory!

#1266 2 years ago

Now you have a spare!

#1313 2 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

LE delivery tomorrow. Finally!

Awesome What Number?

#1321 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Ours should have been delivered days ago.
Been sitting in Amarillo and Dallas for ever.
SAIA is the slowest trucking company I have seen.

This is good info. Noted!

#1324 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

extendo, I made the image 320 x 80 as specified, but I did notice the speaker panel bezel did obscure a couple rows of pixels of the image at the top and bottom edges. I shrunk my image down within the 320 x 80 frame just a bit to accommodate.

Thanks for post this Mark. I want to play around with this some. Just another cool thing about these remake games!

#1358 2 years ago

So I have added two alien Commanders to my game. The one on the left is red and the one on the right is blue. The game design was very accomadating to install them. There is a vacant mounting post on the left by the return scoop. That is where I mounted the red Commander. There is a predrilled hole beside the plastic ramp on the right to mount another mounting post for the blue Commander. I plan to light up the eyes with a fk109 2 blinker led board that fits two led circuits. I did this with two aliens on my Cactus Canyon I will post with pics when im done.

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#1359 2 years ago

Here are the parts.

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#1361 2 years ago

I always thought it was blacked out to be less visible

#1374 2 years ago

Hey Look my matians have the power to grab the ball!

(Pic taken through the glass)

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#1375 2 years ago

Martian Basketball anyone!

#1376 2 years ago

My turn for the flipper return spring to break.

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#1386 2 years ago
Quoted from Yaklam:

’m getting prepared for my AFMR to arrive here in Australia - hopefully before Christmas?! From everyone’s experience who already have theirs, to minimise wear and tear, can I ask what are the protectors I should consider installing?

Cliffy has a complete kit that offers total protection for SOL Mother ship targets and lock. Think he also has a drain hole gard as well

#1387 2 years ago

Thanks Mark and Loyd I did just that. I am interested in your cause Loyd. Should I clean those holes up with a drill bit?

#1389 2 years ago

Ok got it. Thanks

#1398 2 years ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Where do they come from?

I picked these two up on Ebay. You can also get the board kit there.

#1400 2 years ago

Anyone that has an AFMR on order or just received should read this ENTIRE thread and take notes. This thread has a lot of intricate and specific info on the game (From owners) and how to set it up to play correctly. Also specific issues that need correction and adjustment.

#1401 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

My game came from the factory with a mantis type protector in the sol hole. Is more protection there really needed?

IMHO no! People just need to make sure that the Mantis is installed correctly.

#1404 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

The area behind mothership drop target takes a beating and starts to chip quickly. Also in front of drop bank can chip over time. Apparently few people have had chipping in ball lock scoop and drain area but on my original i have no issues in those 2 areas

The original playfields were not clear coated like these so they didnt get the type of wear in those places (chipping)
I used Cliffy protection in the Mother Ship hole and added mylar for the target area and the lock hole. I have been watching the drain hole with no wear as of yet.

#1414 2 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

I removed the screw, securing the wireform that might be in the way. Still having issues with the ball launch.
Becoming bitter.
Is there some way to tell if the autolauncher is properly aligned? I feel as though that's the best place to start. Thanks!

Yes, Remove the apron and make sure the launch plunger is making a centered contact on the ball. Shim the right wire form at the saucer mount (one with the screw )with a thick washer. The problem will go away! Yes sometimes we have to tweak NIB games to get them Dialed In. This game is this best pinball machine I have seen manufactured period once it is tweaked and adjusted. You have to appreciate a machine that is as adjustable (coils, lighting) as these new remakes are. So you have to make some adjustments...

#1417 2 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

I've been making some minor adjustments and it is playing better (and I would now consider it "playable").
While I have purchased many NIB games, and recognize that things can move around during shipping etc, there are NUMEROUS posters on here with the same issue, complaining about the auto-launcher not making the orbit, and its poor alignment.
So thanks, but shit like this should be tested and tweaked at the factory before being received in peoples homes.
One offs are going to happen. This is nothing short of being poorly designed, or poorly put together.
Fortunately, it appears that it can be corrected with some patience and maybe a little luck

I understand your frustration. But if your looking for absolute perfection out of the box your not going to find it anywhere regarding pinball machines. No manufacturer is going to provide that for ya. I have been buying and collecting for 22 years and I haven't seen it yet.

#1425 2 years ago
Quoted from BaggerVance:

My plunger has the same issues. Gets caught up at the corner, maybe 1 out of 4 appempts. Haven't really put anytime into the fix yet. Seems like a few others are similar?

The fix is really trivial "one thick metal washer is all it needs" My super skill shot works great now! The really great thing is that I didn't even know the game had a super skill shot. Funny thing though, it sits next to my CC which (with Eric's continued) has the best super skill shot I have ever experienced and works the same way (left flipper held) My game is set up and running perfectly. I am feeling a little guilty that it seems to be getting all the love these days! Just waiting for my MM to speak up and say "Hey Man What About Me"

#1427 2 years ago

yeah the mirror blades add that new dimension to Playfield.

#1434 2 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

AFMR is 2017 game of the year!

Who Says?

#1458 2 years ago

I have an original MM and there is a big difference in flipper geometry between the two. I have my flippers set to Min.

#1459 2 years ago

Hey FrankMac you can add me to that list for Game of the year!

#1460 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I have an original MM and there is a big difference in flipper geometry between the two. I have my flippers set to Min.

Just checked and I was wrong my flippers are set at -2. I don't get any balls flying off the ramps with that setting just an occasional air ball.

#1462 2 years ago
Quoted from PDFVT:

611 arrived today! Well worth the wait. Can't talk now, back to saving the earth...

Congrats welcome to the club!

#1489 2 years ago

Does anyone know what Playfield glass is in the LE. Is it HD glass? Want to get a couple of sheets for two of my other games. It stunningly different then standard glass. Did all three versions get the antiglare glass?

#1501 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

So, I was visiting New Hampshire on a routine TDY for the USAF this week, and I found a place called Flat Top Johnny's that had an SE of the game.
I have to say, I was thoroughly impressed. I had a complete blast playing it, and I won't deny once I do my mirco PF swap on my original, I am mulling over selling it and getting an SE. Game was sick, played great, felt right, and I just absolutely loved it.
The one thing really stopping me is all the good mods/upgrades (Bill Ung saucers, runway lights, martian LED eyes, PinBit strobe kit with upgraded strobe light, ColorDMD, Polk external sub, custom powercoated habittrails, all cliffys, custom painted saucers, all red ramps, Rottendog power driver board) I have currently in mine. I am even considering just buying an SE and "saving it for a rainy day" - after all - they'll produce those for a while, so it's not like I'm robbing anyone of a game.
So very happy for everyone that now owns this game. It really does play like the original (I'm not going to get into the weeds about how the flippers don't respond microseconds after the buttons are pushed), and I am absolutely eyeballing TPF 2018 with fingers crossed that MBr is coming next. AFMSE spoke well for CGC, and I will definitely bring home MBr if it as solid as this remake has been.

Good Info thanks for posting that. I always wondered what the original owners thought about the AFMrs. I am an original owner of MM and I have a similar view on that remake.

#1503 2 years ago

Very Cool!

#1511 2 years ago

If they do the MBr, wonder how they are going to: address the scoop issue (ball bashing the shit out of the edge of the scoop) and the Drac Trac (balls just pounding on that open cut) I guess you could protect the Drac Trac with Mylar... and maybe put a post along the side of the scoop to take the hits....

#1513 2 years ago

Yeah I restored mine and nothing protects the vertical edge of that scoop. I had to reconstruct the pf around that scoop hole and install a Mantis protector. The Mantis wont protect that vertical scoop edge.

#1514 2 years ago

Here is a before and after.

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#1515 2 years ago

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#1529 2 years ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

Have all the AFMr's had mylar added in front of the scoop and saucer target area. Just saw a LE with this from the factory.

I believe so.... I added mylar to the: trough kick out, In front of the left target bank and over the line of inserts in front of the SOL hole. (I saw an old pf out of an original that had 20,000 plays. That area of inserts in front of SOL had some bad wear spots)

#1537 2 years ago
Quoted from Alex_swe:

Trying again.. Haha, thanx.
English vs Swedish

Understood lost in translation!

#1538 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Thanks its classy, felt it was safe

Its the best one IMHO. The powder coat is some what flat so that shot down the green for me.

#1553 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

I did this green for a customers AFM

Now that's Stellar! If it looked like that I would have been in on a green one!

#1554 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im playing with the flipper settings on my AFMr.
I have had them down to -8 and up to +2.
With the lower settings the game is more predictable and has plenty of power but lacks that feel of battle!
Im back up to default or -2.
The balls can fly off the wireforms on default, but the intensity of the game is improved a lot.
Im going to raise the pitch a little and keep the flippers at a high setting for now.
I really like the intense battle feel of the game at the higher rate in spite of a few airballs.

This is where I am at (-2) for the same reasons. An air ball or a jump once in awhile is fine for me. I like a fast thrilling game with lots of unknowns!

#1561 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Can someone point me to a good guide for how to adjust flipper position? I think my left flipper is the tiniest bit off, balls have a tendency to bounce as they roll onto it just enough that it keeps throwing off my shots. I could also be crazy, but it really looks like the left side is a bit higher than the right side right?

Yep your right it is off. I just compared it to mine. Use the distance between the dark gray area and the black line on the arrow. The right flipper is correct.

#1562 2 years ago
Quoted from jamjam:

I’m having an issue where the ball gets stuck under the spaceship after defeating it. A good shake will release it to the VUK but it’s registering as dirty pool or a lock when that happens. Any thoughts? Thanks

I had this happen to me. The ball hangs up on the switch lever sometimes. You have to push that lever down some. There is an adjustment on the switch mount under the play field. 2 screws. Make sure you do not reduce the sensitivity of the switch so that the ball wont activate it once it runs over it.

#1609 2 years ago
Quoted from GreenMarine:

Trying to figure where these two cliffys attach to. Anyone out there have an idea?

The long straight one looks like its for the Martian target area The other one I'm not sure maybe the lock.

#1620 2 years ago

The Latter!

#1621 2 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

Excited to get mine but I’m not as good at fixing this stuff as you guys are so I’m kind of nervous.

Have no fear my good man we will assist you in getting her all straightened out! Just pick up (from Hardware store) a couple or three 8/32 flat washers.
Remove the screw on the right wire form ramp (just below the saucer). Lift the ramp gently and slide two of those washers in under the mount hole. Replace the screw. You will need a no 2 Phillips screw driver. I am running my Auto plunger now at Default setting.

#1648 2 years ago

OK so what I am seeing here are two separate groups of people. There are those that have skills to just do a few small adjustments (shimming a ramp included) in a few minutes and having an amazing pinball machine that will stand the test of time. There are those of us that have limited skills (which is OK)
That feel that they shouldn't have to use a tool to set up their game to play properly. (valid concern) I feel that it is my moral obligation to help anyone that needs it to get their machine to play properly. I truly believe that CGC will get the MEMO and make some factory adjustments to take care of the quality control issue. We just need a little patients.

#1662 2 years ago
Quoted from abetterway:

I don't think you are trying to insult the second group, are you?
Do you really think there are people with such limited skills that they cannot use a screwdriver and add a washer? This issue here is not that they cannot do it, it's that they should not have to.
This is a Limited Edition $8,000 game. I for one didn't expect to have to modify the game as soon as I pulled it from the box. That appears to be an incorrect assumption and to be expected in this line of business. I will have to deal with that going forward.

I am not suggesting anything insulting for anyone. I am just posting on what I am seeing in here. If you guys cant fix your game, don't want to fix your game, don't think you should fix your game, too lazy to fix your game, whatever... its fine by me. Don't post on here just to complain... open a ticket and talk with CGC. If you want a little help on being proactive and fixing your game your self there are plenty of people here to help you. That all I am saying.

#1674 2 years ago
Quoted from abetterway:

You are not very nice person are you?

Actually I am a very nice person you can ask my wife! (maybe not) anyway.... I am a bridge builder not burner. I think we got off on the wrong foot here. (my fault, It usually is) Your concerns are Valid and noted on here. We want to see you resolve them either by doing yourself (I can Help) or by opening a ticket with CGC. This game is awesome, the build quality is Awesome and you are going to love this game once you get it setup right. Please PM me if I can help you with that. I love to help people. I have been collecting fixing games my whole life (well most of it anyway). Im reaching out -----

#1675 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I dont think i would attempt to put those on. Is it me or is it normal that i cant control the ball well on the flippers on attack from mars like i can on star wars?

If I was in your neck of the woods I would help you install them over a beer. I am sure there are a few Pinsiders in your area that would do the same if you just post it up that you need some help installing.

#1696 2 years ago
Quoted from sofgwhat:

I'm not sure they're producing the LE's in sequential order. I just received #0454 a couple of weeks ago and it was made on Nov 14, 2017 (date on game's badge). I know they went through the number matching LE's first, just seems like I have a relatively low number for a recent build.

They are not. They made the matching number LEs (matched to MMr LE) first.

#1697 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Anyone know of anyone other than Pinball Decals that does martian LED eyes?

If you want plug and play these your kinda stuck paying the piper. If you want to do your own here is a way to do it more cost effective. Ebay has the rubber martians Lighthouseleds.com has the small 6v leds prewired. Just connect two in series ( red wire to black wire) for one martian set of eyes that now will work with 12v (2 6v leds in series) bore out the martians eyes with a dremel (or drill bit) insert the leds through the back of the head to the eyes ( sounds kinda gross) then pick up a led flasher kit Future Kit fk-109. (Ebay) use 12v to power the board. The Future Kit flasher board comes unassembled so you will have to solder in the components via instructions (pretty simple and a good way to learn soldering if you dont know)
The board is able to flash two martians at a time. It will alternate both martians in wig wag fashion ( one on other off. Other on one off ect..) the 12v signal i used was one of the Lighting circuits for the speaker leds at the board.

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#1698 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

resistors so they are just glowing instead of eye searing

Since these are LEDs two in series the eyes tend to glow warmingly not burn like a laser. The POT in the middle of the board adjusts the rate of flashing faster slower.

#1701 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here is an annotated before/after photo that describes what fixed this for me. After a dozen or so launches, it seems to have done the trick! More testing is necessary, but looks good so far...

I decided to take another look at mine. ( plunger is working fine now after the wire form was raised) I have no gap. I did notice that the Plunger to Ball geometry is off and remains so due to the fact that there is no adjustment to correct it. The plunger is centered (left to right) but not vertically. The plunger is actually hitting the top of the ball. Again, there is no adjustment (bending included) to correct this problem. So in summation, launch power on the ball will be decreased due to this condition and there is nothing you can do about it that I can see. My game is launching fine so I am not going to take this any further.

#1707 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

"Stern NIB pins are the worst" doesn't seem like the best approach for encouraging folks to discuss their issues

Come on Man! He didn't say that Stern Games were the worst NIB. He was speaking about two specific games he bought that had quality control issues when delivered NIB. Nobody is bashing Stern here just saying that it happens to best of them.

#1709 2 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

It's the implication and inferences drawn from those comments

Yeah but what he said is being skewed here. He was not Stern bashing he was making a point that it happens with other manufacturers and he used his personal experience.

#1748 2 years ago

I seem to recall someone using nylon washers for the leg bolts, does anybody know what size?

The ones I use that work great are at Ace hardware. They are the “extra thick nylon washers 3/8” they have the white only you can paint them any color. The white look fine on the black trim.

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#1752 2 years ago

Here is one of the ones from ace. They appear to be thicker and less wide than the others.

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#1758 2 years ago
Quoted from masterchen:

Having an issue with a Test Error
Switch F6- U.R. Flipper But.

Switch the flipper boards to see if the error follows the board, If so then open a ticket with CGC.

#1762 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

I've been having the same issue off/on, everything plays fine, so not sure what is up. I've seen it show up for both flippers, then the next power up nothing, then back to F6.

Have you tried reseating the plugs on the flipper boards? It sounds like a connection issue. I had this happen on my SS once. I switched the flipper boards to see if the problem followed the board and it stopped permanently. So I concluded that it was a connection issue.

#1766 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Glad the diagram helped! I really hope folks with shooter lane issues open tickets with CGC...they need to know about the frequency so they can tweak future builds. At the moment, I don't think CGC thinks this is widespread (which is why the brand new builds still have the problem...mine was built on 12/6, only 10 days ago!)
My left orbit has occasional rejects as well. fwiw, the rejects don't happen on my HEP AFM. I need to compare the 2 when I get a chance.
snaroff

I would like to see CGC make a new bracket for the shooter solenoid so the shooter plunger will hit the ball correctly.

#1767 2 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

After making the same adjustment to the plunger coil that Snaroff was kind enough to illustrate with pics, and then levelling the machine side to side at the back and near the flippers, I'd say I have my pin working about 95% to how it was designed.
Still appears as though the left orbit guiderail may have been bent or something, but I'm going to play it this way for now and consider replacing the guiderail some time in the future.
I assume nobody else is seeing rejects from the left orbit? I can make the shot 3 times in a row on some games, but there are times when the ball seems to hit that guide rail and loses all steam, immediately. Definitely not the way it's supposed to function.

My wife told me today that ours had that problem early on. She thinks that when I set my flipper strength to -2 that it stopped. I played mine just now just to hit that orbit as many times as I could and it was smooth. What are your flippers set to, (strength) and post up a pick of your flippers so to see how they are configured. Maybe also a pic of that lane to compare to mine.

#1771 2 years ago

Except that can vary from game to game.
And when the coil energizes, it pulls the plunger to one side, not perfectly straight back.
LTG : )

Loyd you should take a look at how high that plunger is on the ball. Its a lot. That plunger isnt going to move that much.
Any of you guys that play pool know what the ball does when you hit it on top like that. If the bracket were adjustable, then we could dial it in on the games that need it. This situation will continue on to the next remake that is autolaunch (MB comes to mind).

#1773 2 years ago

My Game launches fine now. I am just saying that if the bracket were adjustable we wouldn't be having the issues with the launch and there are quite a few of us that have had that issue. At the very least, check the launch at QC before the game leaves.

#1778 2 years ago

This happens because the plunger is hitting the top of the ball and there is no adjustment Shim the ramp and turn down the shooter power and everything should work fine.

#1783 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Does anyone else think the shooter lane rejects occur when the ball contacts the wiring that crosses under the ramp right there? Is that standard? I’m pretty sure that’s where balls are hitting and losing required velocity.

It hits the wire form ramp due to the launch solenoid plunger.

#1788 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

This is my biggest concern. Even when dialed down to -23, I am seeing balls violently/occasionally fly off my right wireform. Doesn't seem to happen as much on my left. This is my first CGC pin/platform, so I'm really new to this technology. Does anyone know if this is the same power management and board set used on MMr? Or has it been revised dramatically?
snaroff

Something must be going on with some of these games where the game is not responding to the adjustments. Have you tried setting your flippers to Min just to see if the game does indeed turn down the flipper power? I set my flippers to -2 and the game responded perfectly. I do not have any air balls (very few) and I do not have balls coming off of the ramps anymore on the (perfect) lock shot especially.

#1789 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I am working on a theory and a fix for the shooter problem besides making a new bracket
I was closely looking and old Bally parts and comparing them to new
This was a design issue I a long time ago. I trying to make a fix now with a plastic printed sleeve on the plunger
When the plunger is in rest position it only sits 24.5 mm in the sleeve
When like this is has 3-4 mm play at the tip compared to 1 mm play when in.
My threory is this is what’s giving the shooter inconsistency
I will let ya know

Does your plunger sit in the middle of the ball? If not how far off is it vertically?

#1800 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I have never experienced this and I do that skill shot on every ball.

My machine will do this every ball when the launch solenoid is set to default now. If I try to adjust it stronger, it will not even make it to the top of the pf without hitting the wire ramp (even after the shimming) every ball let alone the skill shot. This will be the case until we can find a way to get the launch solenoid plunger to hit the middle of the ball. (like it should)

#1801 2 years ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

All the positive reviews I think I am going to join the club soon. Is the consensus to go LE? When they first came out I was not a fan of the green but now I feel it is the way to go.

Get the LE while you can! They are going fast. You get the most for your money with the LE IMHO.

#1805 2 years ago
Quoted from Baffle_Ball:

I too was having the same issues with the shooter lane and with balls flying off the right side wire ramp. I removed the screw from the ramp near the saucer so the ramp sits a little higher. The ball no longer flies off the ramp. For the shooter lane I first adjusted the plunger power higher with no success. I then set it to minimum and now the ball makes the super skill shot pretty much every time.

This seems to be the silver bullet for now. If we had a reengineered bracket I believe we could solve it. It would be nice if everybody could just pop off their apron and see if their plunger is contacting the top of the ball. Don't adjust anything just see where it is. My theory is that every game has the same condition.

#1836 2 years ago

Its obvious the difference between Marks and mine his bracket angles forward so his plunger is centered on the ball. Need you bracket Mark!

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#1838 2 years ago

With the ball

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#1839 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Whthrs, the front end of your bracket actually looks bent (front). I am guessing you too have excess.clear coat at the front of the bevel like mine.
Looking at my photo above, there is the slightest bend on mine too.

Yeah but my bracket is level. Yours is angled down. That's why your plunger is on the center of the ball. If you were to level the bracket it would be hitting the top. Putting washers on the back of the bracket is not an option for me because its too high.

#1842 2 years ago

So take look at this. I pushed down on the front of the bracket and now its centered. I didnt think that bracket was as easy to just bend a bit. Dont need your bracket after all Mark

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#1843 2 years ago

Yeah its the clear coat underneath that's doing that. Its tight It wont move.

#1852 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Its gotta be software......... I put on default and it works great.

I feel your pain! I did the same thing tonight I managed to get mine to shoot properly set to +1 now but it still is not consistently smooth so I am thinking of going back to default. I did find one thing that calmed it down a little. The metal ramp at the end of the shooter lane had a spring to it. It wasn't sitting flat at the end (it kinda stuck up in the air a bit) So I pulled it out and tweaked a little so it would sit down when screwed down. Made a small difference.

#1853 2 years ago

Here is the ramp.

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#1860 2 years ago

Or you can just push down just slightly on the bracket bending it just a little to get the alignment. No washers needed.

#1866 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

So is everyone’s shooter working 100% with the washers on the shooter

No, But I think I have finally got what was causing my issue. After getting the alignment vertically with the plunger on the ball (by Bending slightly on the bracket), I was still getting an erratic ball launch (ball seemed to just wobble off the top of the shooter ramp). I removed the metal ramp at the end of the shooter lane (yes the one with the rivets). I determined that my ball wasn't hitting the rivets it was jumping too high off of that metal ramp. My ramp has a small crease about three quarters up where the ramp goes from an angle to flat. That crease was acting like a speed bump making the ball jump off the ramp instead of rolling off causing the erratic ball behavior entering the top of the playfield. I just smoothed that out with counter bend (opposite way as the crease)
Now the ball rolls off the ramp like should when its shot. IMHO I would try this before redrilling any holes and repositioning that ramp. My balls are launching correctly now at high setting.

#1872 2 years ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

whthrs166, do you have a picture of how it looks now?

Yeah it would be difficult to show the difference with pictures. It really is easy to do. You just want to take out the speed bump by bending slightly backward. It will smooth out the ramp so that it is a gentle slope instead of an incline to speed bump.

#1873 2 years ago

I really hope that all of our corrective action here on this issue will help others dial in their game and get it performing properly. I also hope that it gets the attention of CGC to look into this issue and move forward with a corrective action on their end.

#1880 2 years ago
Quoted from eagleeyemma:

Either way mine is fixed for now..

Yay! That is awesome! Mine has been working perfectly. That skill shot is so fast now, that if you blink you will miss it.

#1911 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Also, is it normal for the ball to often hit the metal intake under the spaceship, causing the ball to bounce back out, not making it into the hole? I have a plastic playfield protector and am curious to find out if that is causing the ball to jump up a bit more often than it

No not that I have seen on my machine. (your talking about the mother ship here) I don't see how a PF protector would cause that. Do you have a mantis protector for the mother ship hole? The only draw back to the Mantis type protector is that it does make the hole shots a bit more difficult.

#1917 2 years ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

That black trim looks amazing! I assume that is a limited edition (considering the topper)? Was this a trim color that you were able to request from CGC, or did you do this after the fact? Either way, it looks badass! Love it.

Yes it’s the LE an early build. I odered the black trim. I almost did green, but the powder coat wasnt quite to par with my standards for this title. Thanks

#1927 2 years ago

Better wait for that cord to be sent, using something else will void the warranty....

#1928 2 years ago

Ok just kidding

#1934 2 years ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Up and running now! Great game!

Nice troubleshooting!

#1943 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Should I try moving the gates up a bit when they are in the lowered position, so that it is more flush with the playfield/plastic protector?

Yes this! I have installed quite a few PF protectors. Anything that comes up from the PF has to be level with the protector when its in the down position . There is an adjustment screw on the bottom the that unit. Just tweak it til the shield is flush with the protector. That's probably your air ball issue. I went through this with my CC and my TOTAN.

#1954 2 years ago
Quoted from jmagla:

LE425 arrived yesterday

Looks nice in there!

#1955 2 years ago

OK Guys How many saucers have guys shot down in the video mode? How many do you have to hit to get extra ball?

#1969 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

metimes when you shoot the Big-O-Beam, a cow is displayed and a female voice says: "Would you look at the size of that cow?!" and a moo is heard. 
Sometimes when you shoot the Tractor Beam, a cow is beamed up. (View animation).DOHO is also seen in this animation. 
Whenever one of these animations appears, hit the Launch button repeatedly for lots of mooing sounds. Do this for both of the ramps and then the next Video mode will be Cow Attack Video mode, where the 
saucers has been replaced with mooing cows.

That is awesome thank you for your insight! I am going to copy your post and put it on my note pad!

#1970 2 years ago

So I finally was able to take down 30 saucers. I got the extra ball but I dont know how many saucers it took to get it.

#1973 2 years ago

I don't think they intended to have playfield number coinside with the LE number.

#1974 2 years ago

I have #360 PF in #267 LE.

#1978 2 years ago

Watch out for that Grinch!

#1979 2 years ago

Been thinking about doing some lighted flipper buttons (green) I really like them on my MM. I like the glowing effect. Any of you guys done these. Did you do a plug and play kit or do your own?

#1982 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Been thinking about doing some lighted flipper buttons (green) I really like them on my MM. I like the glowing effect. Any of you guys done these. Did you do a plug and play kit or do your own?

I have an Idea, and to answer my own question here, I ordered a set of clear flipper buttons. I have some of the LED strip left over from the under cabinet lighting mod. I will install the clear buttons and take a couple (per side) of the strip LDEs and tie into the cabinet lighting so the flipper buttons will be multicolored and interactive with the game.

#1983 2 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

Does still being in the box add a lot size? Every pin is a tight fit down my stairs, especially JD, but that doorway looks pretty wide and that machine taking every square inch.

Box makes it much tighter in the doorway.

#1984 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I got the cliffys but could not get info. on installing them. Anything I should know before installing them?
Thanks

The posts that have to be removed are in there really tight (for obvious reasons) Some of the guys have had to drive them out after the nut was removed. Just so you know.

#1989 2 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

I'm ordering next week and trying to decide on black or stainless. If anyone has a pic of their black game in the light, and wants to PM me, I would appreciate it.

PM sent

#2006 2 years ago

Yes and mine does open all the way. Go to solenoids/ diverter and watch it open close. Then tilt the PF and see if anything is binding or broken when it works.

#2028 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I got 28 last night with no extra ball. Ill look later should come down at 30 and mother ship at 40/50. You get 1 smart bomb.

Yeah it must be 30 for the extra ball. I have not, at this point, used a smart bomb so the 30 kills is straight up. I usually do not do that well but I am thinking that once I start using the smart bomb, I will do better consistently.

#2029 2 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

went with green translucent rubbers. Love the glow effect.

I like those! I am getting a Titan Competition Silicone ring kit for Christmas (green). I have these on my MM and love them.

#2030 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

It seems to be tuned to be way more difficult than it used to be. I've only seen an EB once and I couldn't hit it. I used to just sweep back and forth but it seems something always gets through with that strat, and I've never seen the mothership.

Thanks for this! I agree. There seems to be a sweep pattern that really works well but I am sure there is some luck involved with getting the timing down.

#2031 2 years ago
Quoted from brittlewater:

Yeah, it has not been effecting game play that i can notice. Seems to work OK, but error message pops up 50% of the time i turn on the machine and i want to fix it. I am currently in 2nd place on the preset factory scores... hopefully that will be changing soon.

The old B/W errors would pop up if the machine didn't see certain components used in a certain amount of time. Gates, switches, ect... Switch errors were most common. I would make sure your game launches correctly (use the super skill shot) I would agree with hoby1 that your game is probably :thinking:not launching properly.

#2034 2 years ago

Yep and we expect your numbers to go up!

#2046 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

If i cut back the pp a bit, I could have the best of both worlds though... just wanting to ensure that is the right way to install a pp together with a cliffy.

I think its the only way.

#2047 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Oh that stuff doesn't bother me too much, it's been made pretty clear that this is the sort of thing that can happen. I'm more wondering if AFMR is going to stay in my collection long term to be honest. It's great fun and my nostalgia shades from being a kid heavily drove my interest in owning it but it just seems a bit lacking for a machine I paid 8k for. That's in no way a dig on CGC or anything obviously, as it's a perfect remake. I'm just comparing it to my restored WC94 that was only $2600 next to it and it seems kind of lacking in longevity. My brain keeps wandering off to more involved/longer ball time games I could have in its place (really interested in owning a Hobbit at some point).

If you are one of those guys that wants longer ball times then TH is your Game. I had one for awhile it was great but I just decided that I was done with JJP games period.

#2052 2 years ago

Ok so I shot down 32 saucers but i used the smart bomb No Extra Ball!

#2057 2 years ago
Quoted from PDFVT:

Cliffys worked for me as well without cutting the PP

You guys should post pics of that.

#2059 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

I absolutely love it and won't be getting rid of it anytime soon

They just took a fantastic timeless title and enhanced it! A title that most people couldn't or didn't own! (including myself) What I like are the guys that have an original and bought the LE! That tells ya somthin right there! Then they rave about the AFMrLE! Just great to hear that! Hats off to you guys!

#2066 2 years ago
Quoted from PDFVT:

Also added the protector under the Mothership as I started getting damage to the hole on the second day of play.

Awesome pics thank you! I will be looking at mine as time goes on.

#2080 2 years ago

Looky at what I got for Christmas! The lockbar is for CC

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#2082 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

UPDATE: I successfully removed the posts, by wrapping the end of the vice-grips with electric tape and twisting the posts out. Same getting them back in, twisted them in. All good!
And if anyone is wondering if they should get cliffys, I would say yes, as there was already a bit of damage starting on the hole below the spaceship... caught it just in time.

How many plays on your game?