(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (2 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (2 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (2 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #494 LCD screen info Posted by spazzman90 (2 years ago)

Post #639 workaround - to drooping shield targets Posted by markp99 (2 years ago)

Post #1966 Info on Easter eggs Posted by bigd1979 (1 year ago)

Post #2062 cliffy saucer install. Posted by PDFVT (1 year ago)

Post #2201 Urgent attention to flipper strength rates message from CGC Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #2952 speaker lights for AFMR classic Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #3001 SOL PIC Posted by Damien (1 year ago)

Post #3167 Picture of crazed plastics defect on AfMr Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)

Post #3174 list of issues Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)


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#2615 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

I bought my SE Sunday. Should have it within a week or two.
I completed reading all the post from the beginning of the thread (did get side tracked a few times...)
When it comes to mods, in general, do the original AFM mods fit the AFMr machines?

Cliffys do not, you need to ask specifically for the remake ones.

#2616 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Tend to disagree here. Stern bars have no adjustment. So when they get loose... then what. I had a LOTR that had a loose lock bar, I never could figure a way to tighten it. I really like W/B lock bars because they can adjust. I have all my games dialed in just right on the lock bar tightness.

Weatherstripping foam works great to snug them back up.

#2644 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I have a TNA coming and was debating not getting the butter/clearcoat finish, but now that I know the stuff can peel, I'll go with the butter... CGC should offer clearcoat cabs!.. unless having clearcoat cabinet is a bad idea?

If the cab is separating at the joint (as it looks like in that pic) clear is not going to stop it and may make the cracking and peeling worse. But this is a good example of why wrap-around cabinet stickers are a bad idea.

#2676 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

For those with an issue, I’d suggest using yellow gorilla glue or titebond 2 glue (available at local hardware store) and use a bar clamp to bring the wood back together.

Titebond III for the win.

Quoted from pintechev:

Folks should contact CGC for support and options.

Unless they're the second owner in the warranty period, in which case CGC will do nothing under warranty.

#2691 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

That's unclear. Both JJP and Stern have a history of supporting me on recent model, 2nd owner pins. Considering CGC takes support seriously and AFMr has had some common, non-trivial speed bumps, I imagine CGC will take care of folks.
snaroff

I'm speaking from firsthand experience. For example, according to them, can't get the updated pic chip that fixes a pretty serious potential electrical problem with the flippers under warranty unless I'm the first owner. Extremely lame of CGC.

#2695 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Couldn't agree more. That sucks...big time. Very lame. To be honest, I think it's lame that all the companies warranties aren't transferrable. The only reason more collectors don't freak out is Stern/JJP still support most folks. I know they've supported me, despite what the "fine print" on the warranty says.
snaroff

It's a SUPER TERRIBLE policy for CGC being a supposed "premium" vendor, and definitely asking a premium price. Both Stern and JJP will support second and third owners in the warranty period in a limited way (things like cabinet sticker nitpicks, no, broken boards and coils, yes, in my experience). Essentially the two year CGC LE warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on when you factor in the reality of the high end collector market where machines move sometimes in MONTHS, not years.

Anyway, I was told this PIC thing is more like a recall and they should cover it if I contact them directly instead of going to the distributor as is the usual policy (the policy I followed when I was denied). I'm a little less steamed, but only a little. This really bad warranty system will restrict their growth once more collectors get a taste of the wrong side of it. Made me a LOT less excited about anything CGC announces next, that's for sure.

Quoted from stpcore:

Is this confirmed that CGC won't help second owners regarding the PIC chip?

I was denied by the distributor (not one I've ever used, the one that sold this to this original owner), citing CGC policy. However, I've now been told to contact CGC directly since this PIC thing is more like a recall and they'll handle it. I'll report back.

#2698 1 year ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

That does suck, but they do have to draw the line somewhere. A lot of warranties don't transfer.

But they're drawing the line way too harshly. Literally the worst in the industry that I'm aware of. I know firsthand that JJP is the best covering 2nd and 3rd owners in the warranty period, followed by Stern, then others (anyone chime in about Spooky?) then CGC. Dead last. If JJP and Stern can make it work, there's no excuse for CGC. None.

And maybe make that a selling point of the CGC LEs? Maybe LE is the level where the warranty is transferrable for the full warranty period. Turn a SERIOUS current negative into a marketing positive while offering essentially what Stern and JJP already do off the record.

#2699 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

As a second owner of a hobbit, jjp did not cover a drop target board that went bad. I think I was toward the end of the warranty or just outside it. Stern covered a bad dmd a year out of warranty.

JJP outside warranty, second owner with that part failure, I can see. The bad DMD was probably the batch that was known to have issues and was more like a silent recall, so that may be why you got that. Were you 2nd owner on the Stern, too?

I'm talking about 2nd and 3rd owner IN warranty, WELL within the CGC 2 year "warranty". No excuse compared to their peers.

#2701 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Being denied by the distributor makes total sense. That's "normal". I bet if you work directly with CGC they will take care of you.
Since all the games have a build date, seems like the warranty should be based on time, not owner. Period.
snaroff

I was just following the policy CGC set by contacting the distributor. Giving CGC a shot directly after being told this is more like a recall on the PIC chip.

And see above, making a transferrable warranty a selling point of the LE level would turn a major CGC negative into a positive.

#2704 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

They should make the warranty transferrable across models. The LE already has warranty perks over the other models...
snaroff

Yes, but worthless perks for the 2nd and 3rd owner across the line. My point was if they don't want to do the RIGHT thing and extend it across the line, they could make warranty extension another LE perk that would make it much more attractive, preserving resale value for the owner, too.

#2725 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Contact your dictributor. There is an upgraded chip for the game that fixes an issue related to coil strength. It’s a chip you replace in the backbox of the machine. Once installed, you can lower the power of the flippers down to -4 or -5 in the CGC menu that should reduce the air balls and ramp fly offs.
You’re asking for a PIC 2.0 replacement chip.

To recap. If you're not the original owner, you're screwed as of this moment.

Contacted distributor. Denied.

Contacted CGC. Crickets.

Just released CGC facebook post says CGC will not be sending PIC chips out directly.

Still hoping CGC does the right thing, but not looking good for non-original owners still in the machine's warranty period. This silent recall aside, CGC absolutely has the worst warranty policy for second and third owners of their very expensive machines. JJP and even Stern are better.

#2798 1 year ago
Quoted from Vino:

Are distributors getting these PIC 2.0 or what?
Haven’t heard yet, Anyone get a timeframe?

You are supposed to contact the distributor that sold the AfM to get the PIC2.

#2816 1 year ago
Quoted from markp99:

I have a little chip on the right hand edge of the SOL hole. It was clearly caused by an airball as the mantis-style protector is also dented; probably the same event.
I added a strip of Mylar over that edge, hoping to add the slightest bit of protection/padding in that area.

That's exactly why I cliffied that hole, first thing. The mantis-style protector does not protect the playfield surface area around the hole.

#2849 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Maybe orthigonal is a better word for it. I don’t know why some remakes chip anc others don’t. Could be due to flipper strength and balls flying around the game? Unclear.

Stern uses multiple vendors. I'm more of the mind that some are better than others at the clearcoating process prep.

#2853 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

For me it creates a sense of doubt that may hold me back from buying the next remake.

And certainly as a second owner where the CGC warranty is completely worthless.

#2862 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Churchill is Chicago Gaming sister company in same building. The Ghostbuster playfeild issues were theirs and stern was stuck with them.

I thought that whole mess happened when Stern tried to take PF manufacture in-house to save a few more dimes, then realized they were in over their head and went back.

#2888 1 year ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

So here I am again with another problem with my AFMR LE machine. When I play and get into attack mode when I get 2nd or 3rd hit on saucer it puts me into lock ball or if I need the 3rd ball at the time into multiball. What is could be causing this? Anybody else having this problem. Seems like this machine is giving me more problems then enjoyment lately. Please help. I want to play a real damn game on this machine.

I'd put it into switch test mode then bang on the playfield with the palm of your hand in various places close to that area to see if vibration is causing the lock to the left of the saucer target area to trigger. Then knock down the saucer target while in switch mode and see if the VUK switch that activates the lock activates, too. If it does, you may have a switch matrix issue.

But I really think it sounds more like vibration on a too-sensitive switch.

#2907 1 year ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

How would I go about adjusting the switch?

If you look at the bracket, one of the screw holes is elongated. This is so you can vary the tilt of the switch to raise or lower the switch blade that makes contact with the ball. Adjust the angle of the switch body, then tighten the screws to lock it down.

#2915 1 year ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

Ok so should I do the, like yours in your life with the left one lol the way up? Tight fit to get a screw driver done there at the angle where the play field sits on stand

Dunno. Where is the movable screw now? Top? Middle? Bottom? I would GUESS it needs to be more towards the bottom, but I'm guessing blind.

#2933 1 year ago
Quoted from Budman:

Given the recent issues with this game and / or in general, do you see an advantage to having a distributor in close proximity to you or is their role handled adequately from “Anywhere USA”?

Unless your a total n00b or repair-phobic, Anywhere, USA is fine.

#2991 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

@ Lloyd
Do you know why CGC has put the driver board back in the backbox?

Decentralized driver boards under the playfield are a bad idea. See: Spike service bulletins to fix parts coming loose from vibration and killing node boards for a good example on multiple recent Stern machines in the real world.

Manufacturers:Leave the driver boards in the backbox, please.

#3006 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper73:

what are the changes/ improvements version 2.0 compared to 1.0?

2.0 doesn't blow up your board under certain circumstances if you change the flipper power settings.

That's the main feature, and why CGC is handling this like like a recall where all owners can get the updated chip, instead of handling it like a CGC warranty issue where only the first owner can get the chip replaced for free.

#3053 1 year ago
Quoted from adii:

I thought the same thing. I went with -2 and it seems like the sweet spot.

-6 was way too soft on the machine here. -2 was still a little too strong (airballs off the two standups near the center). -3 seemed to be "just right" on this machine.

CGC came through and sent me the updated PIC 2.0 directly, even though we're not the first owner. I still disagree with their lack of support for successive owners inside the warranty period for their LEs (at LEAST). If JJP and even STERN can do that, CGC just looks bad, and we won't be buying any, new or used, for the route until/unless this changes. Shame, too, because AfMrLE is really well done. Seems like they'd stand behind it at least as well as Stern, but no.

#3063 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Guys look around extra ball, stroke of luck, Martian attack and rule the universe. Martian attack is also showing the ball wearing through playfeild like orginal. That orange is faded white throughout. Look at picture on out lanes. Then go look at yours. It is orange. Also orange line next to capital is the same thing

Looks like they just screened that whole layer with the wrong color. Instead of orange, you got flesh colored. Was it right when you first got it? I can't believe the whole playfield spot color of orange faded from orange to flesh-colored evenly. Seems like a playfield printing screwup is more likely.

#3064 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

If I buy a new car and sell three months later it still has its manufactures warranty to the new purchasers. How it should be. CGC it will begin to hurt their resale’s as little demand. Being a operatir you need to get some of the purchase price back and resell it after it is off location. This hurts what you can recoup. I had a AFMr LE offered to me for $7000 two weeks ago with 250 plays and included a backup playfeild that he Harvey received from CGC for sanding marks on the inserts. Would have been great to put on location for someone but no warranty.

If they don't want to cover their lower-margin pins in each release, I can KIND OF see that (though Stern does), but it seems like such a no-brainer to offer transferrable warranties for the top-of-the-line LE models as a perk of that level. It would cost them very little in real-world terms, and instantly make LEs much more popular. I dunno. I think they'll eventually come around because this will hurt them when their competition has much better real-world policies (despite what the warranty says in print) in this regard.

#3070 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

That’s not great quality control. I am sure they made more like this in the “nude” color instead of orange.

Meh. It IS uglier, but Creature has plain pink and hot pink playfields. Some things never change.

#3096 1 year ago
Quoted from chatplume51:

ok thanks to reply
here with a good restoration price seems to be 5500 euros and a new game pro is 7500,that's why i hesitate
otherwise game is the same ?

You can't really compare the AfMrLE experience to an original. The gigantic screen can't be easily duplicated on a vintage one, nor can the re-drawn higher-res graphics. And the topper on the LE is interactive and one of the best I've seen that also can't be easily done on a vintage machine.

#3115 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Silencing people has never ever worked over time in the history of the world.

Well, almost never. Mt. Vesuvius did it famously well.

#3127 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Maybe the chemicals the used years ago are not longer 'legal' to use or not considered environmentally friendly... seems to me making something very durable may involve toxic materials of some type, but as you say, maybe some experts can chime-in.

Someone that does clear for a living did chime in on one of these threads maybe 2-3 months ago. His opinion was that the surfaces were not being prepped properly before the clear was laid down, making the adhesion of the clear tentative at best. He said even with the newer clear he doesn't have chipping issues on work he does.

#3161 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

No. Mantis style is still a protector. It stops the ball running over a cleared edge therefore protecting the edge from chipping. All the 90 s BW playfields that you guys keep saying have no issues came out came out of the same factory as the CGC remake playfields.

But using different materials/process. Not the same.

#3168 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

My plastics are cracking....Bad plastics etc.

Ruh Roh. I TOTALLY recognize the crackling ink on the plastics. They used incompatible inks on the PETG when they screened them, and the ink is now crackling because it didn't "take" to the PET-G plastic. The ENTIRE first run of Shadow Superset plastics I did way back when in 2004-ish had to be recalled, re-run, and replaced (at my expense) for this exact reason. They all started crackling and you could only really see it when they were backlit. It looked EXACTLY like what you have in the picture of the plastics. It will not get better over time, only worse.

#3243 1 year ago
Quoted from Krsmith9:

Hi all. Happy to join the club. I'm told my AFMrLE should be leaving the factory tomorrow. Any idea how long I should expect it to take to get to southern California?

A week, give or take. There's some bad weather in the central US.

#3272 1 year ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

I remember that! I thought it was an excellent way to handle that situation, hats off to you Still have my Shadow, too.

That was a harsh learning experience, but there was no choice about making it right for the people that got defective sets, IMO.

I WISH I still had my Shadow! I made the mistake of selling it after the plastics were done, and when all the plastics were suddenly available to make the machines look like new, prices on The Shadow took off! I do have a CPR Shadow playfield on preorder, so SOMEDAY I will have another perfect Shadow. It's a GREAT game.

#3293 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I joined the club yesterday.

I’m considering a plastic protector set and cliffy’s, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Any advice?

Cliffies for SURE.

#3296 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

SOL & the Moving Target/Mothership?
I wasn’t sure if they would work on the new models. Good to know.

You need to get the ones made specifically for the remake, the originals don't fit right. SoL and Moving Target, Mothership hole at the very least. You could also get the trough protector and the shooter lane protector.

#3298 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

It’s weird to me that people are SO negative about playfield protectors and so up about cliffys. Don’t get me wrong, I love cliffys, but mostly for already damaged spots. Aren’t these really the same thing? They both change the look and both affect play. I can’t see why having a cliffy over a damaged spot vs over a pristine playfield is really different. I’m choosing to play AFMR with a little mylar in key spots and if damage happens, then I’ll add cliffys. Am I completely alone in this opinion?

You're alone only in that you haven't had a negative experience with these new modern sissified playfield clearcoats yet. You will. It's just a matter of time. They're more brittle somehow and the level of hardiness seems to have little rhyme or reason. Edges are the easiest point of breakage, so covering edges with a cliffy is a smart hedge these days, and they're so thin I don't buy that they affect gameplay enough to matter (except on like KISS where the scoop is designed too small to begin with).

#3300 1 year ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

At what price point will cliffy protectors be included, 15K?

JJP is now including actual Cliffies from the factory on Dialed In. Just verified that the changeover happened around Jan 30th. It took a while, but it's another industry-leading decision by Jack.

#3311 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I think it makes all the sense in the world to "INSTALL" cliffy's day one....installing the protectors at the factory makes all the sense in the world. As most know some are a pain in the butt to install. In my experience on dozens of games they have very little effect on game play. I think the real reason is most manufacturers are cheap

JJP has now upped the game by including actual Cliffies from the factory. We'll see if the others just keep offering excuses.

#3313 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

As far as I know both hands were on the flipper buttons and my feet were on the floor...and the dog is too short, so pushing the start button didn't happen in all probability.
Robert

You can minimize the potential by changing "Game restart" to "slow" which requires a press to be held before it restarts.

#3331 1 year ago
Quoted from Budman:

Ninja chrome balls from Ball Baron

What kind of Ninja would have chrome balls? Black? Probably. Chrome? Eh....

#3340 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

The playfields and cabinets come out of the same factory as the originals did.

Only this isn't true. The chipping clear after relatively few games is not a problem the originals had. Aside from actual WEAR from thousands of games, the clear on the originals was very good and I never saw a chipped one after only a few hundred plays. Crappy chipping clear issues are unique to many newer pins and the new remakes.

#3383 1 year ago
Quoted from frankmac:

My ticket for plastic cracking was approved and new ones are on the way.
That’s good news!

You're talking about the documented ink crackling, not the plastic itself cracking, right?

#3389 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I have had my pinball machine 2 months. Looked closely today. Has wood chipping to the right and left of mothership hole. Sol looks okay.
Never had topper or flipper issues. Placed the new pic2 last week but the flipper strength feels no different. Had ramp issue but fixed that. Should i add mylar or go right to cliffys?

That's nasty. You're way past mylar. Get a cliffy (or actually ALL of them) on that machine, stat. Note that you must request a set for the remake. The original AfM ones are slightly different.

#3392 1 year ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

My TWDLE had zero issues. 2k plays. Ghostbusters had minor wear at 2k in the shooter lane...and I mean REAL MINOR. My DILE has ZERO wear at around 700 plays

Eventually everyone loses at Russian Roulette. Don't play it.

#3395 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

It's kind of odd that the SIM card scoop is where most of the damage crops up, despite the shots well known difficultly *AND* it isn't a VUK! Weird...
snaroff

I think it has to do with the irregular shape of the hole and the speed/distance of a made shot. An extended flipper to the SIM hole is shorter than from the lower flipper to the phone hole, and there's no metal on the back side of the SIM hole to protect it even a little like there is at the phone scoop. You're taking a rocket shot straight to exposed wood on the inside back of the SIM hole if the SIM hole is unprotected.

#3397 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Here’s mine. That white stuff around the SOL is under the Mylar. Backing paper maybe? Never really noticed it until tonight. But the edge is smooth and no chipping.
Shooter is clean. Saucer hole might have the slightest little bit on the left edge as I’ve actually never looked under the ship. It’s not visible so I have no plans to throw a cliffy on there. To me, that’s just fine. Maybe others feel different, but it’s OK here.
Number 209 branded on the PF edge.

That mothership hole on the left side is getting pretty beat up already. You're playing with fire to leave it nekkid.

It also looks like the Front half SOL edge on the right running behind the black post may be chipping/lifting.

#3399 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

if my game started to show damage and I would put a cliffy on

Quoted from pintechev:

Why? It’s a hole in the wood under a ship, behind a drop target and normally behind a bank of targets. I can’t see it unless I look for it. It’s not like SOL or the chair hole in TAF that stares at you.

Which is it? You've said two different things on the same subject in the span of one page - you are showing damage.

#3443 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

It's rare that any manufacturer installs cliffys ex factory. I've only seen dialled in and Aerosmith. Most Stern games need them yet aren't shipped with them.

Until Dialed In NO factory games had Cliffies. Stern just ripped off the idea - they weren't and aren't Cliffies. Jack stepped up and moved the ball forward by installing Cliffies from the factory, starting with Dialed In, and he should be applauded for that.

#3450 1 year ago

? Your post is too brief. What are you saying?

#3456 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

When I talked to Cliffy about this, I believe that he told me that these aren't his products.
I could be wrong but that's the way I remember the conversation.
I don't think that any pinball manufacturer is buying actual/real Cliffy's...but I'm OK with someone correcting me.
Robert

This just changed late last month when the first Dialed Ins left the factory with actual real Cliffies (I contacted Cliff to check and they ARE his on the new Dialed Ins). No idea why Jack and JJP aren't advertising this as it really looks good for them as an industry-leading forward-facing pinball manufacturer.

#3457 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Aerosmith came with a factory cliffy installed (left scoop) before Dialed In.

No it did not. It came with a ripoff of a cliffy-style protector Stern did with no input from or reimbursement to Cliff. Scummy, but Stern. If Cliffy didn't design it, it's a metal protector, not a cliffy.

#3458 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I'm a bit scared to ask, but why not leave the clearcoat off, and use the same type of plastic used for full playfield protectors instead?

Because they're ugly, thick, and cloud up. There is no problem with properly prepped surfaces and properly applied clear.

#3472 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Correct. In using the term cliffy as a generic term for thin metal protectors.

Which is not good for Cliff because it encourages his product being ripped off. If Gary Stern can get you saying Aerosmith has Cliffies, he'll keep ripping off Cliff, which isn't cool. Drawing a line and only calling actual Cliffies by that name respects Cliff's work and the fact that he's helped the hobby a LOT by coming up with the idea all those years ago and still banging them out now.

#3479 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Many of us aren’t having clear coat issues but other planking issues. Cliffy won’t fix anything.

That nude color mistake is more distracting than the wood grain.

#3485 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Aerosmith "thin metal scoop protector" is very good since the scoop was designed with it in mind.
Naming a category of products after a brand that is the original or market leader is something that has been happening since brands were a thing. Walkmans, Ipods, Esky, White Out, Band Aids, Biro's, Uber etc etc. Happens all the time. Good or bad, its usually a reflection on the fact that the original product is so groundbreaking that it has created a whole new category . No different with Cliffy in this case.

I'm not unaware of what you're saying, just that Stern, etc should not be rewarded for ripping Cliff off unapologetically when buyers (confused or lazy) call what Stern did Cliffies, because they took the concept, benefited, and Cliff got zip out of it. It's a respect issue for Cliff, imo.

JJP should be applauded for doing what's right for their machines, customers and Cliff by using real Cliffies on Dialed In now and compensating Cliff for it. Stern should get none of that goodwill for stealing it. But I'll shut up about that now. The point's been made.

#3520 1 year ago
Quoted from adii:

I wish I could unsee these pics. Mine looks the same with whatever is going on here (grain/planking and the flesh tone orange). CGC replaced my plastics quickly, and I appreciate that. I complained about a cabinet issue and was pretty much told I'm too picky. I disagreed given the price but let it go and kept my mouth shut. I'm kinda pissed about the playfield. I'm not normally a NIB guy but I don't want to be complacent. Are we off base here expecting better or is this really normal?

The wood grain is unfortunate, but plenty of modern playfields have it. LOTS of Sterns do. I'd chalk this up to bad luck of the draw.

The nude color screening error is a mistake - a pretty big one - and I'd ask for a replacement playfield since it was the wrong color screened and therefore is nude EVERYWHERE on the playfield the correct orange was supposed to go.

#3526 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I'm not too good with colors... do I have the nude tone?

Nope. You have orange.

Here's a side by side comparison of just one place that color is used. If you have the nude mistake, it should be obvious since all places where the orange should be will be nude instead.

AfMr-Screen-error-comparison (resized).jpg

#3531 1 year ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

Solid as a rock.

Ooookay....but that's not where the cracking/chipping will show up first on a Dialed In...

#3583 1 year ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

Also anybody have a problem with rattling coming from the glass when volume is up? So annoying makes me not want to even play the game. When I push down on glass it stops. Guessing the plastic seam it slides into isn’t tight anymore. Only took off maybe 4 times. Smh always something

Anti-rattle tape. Problem solved.

#3667 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Fair enough and great question. We all get pm’s from our posts. I have also got a call from the Company asking me not to post even after I changed the topic twice.

If true, the company trying to hide issues by telling people not to share them with the community that may also be affected is not cool.

#3715 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

Nothing really with the playfield, it’s the shooter lane. Just haven’t noticed one with the coloring like this before.
What is planking?

Your shooter lane doesn't look messed up. Just normal wood variations on color. I've seen many like this. The OTHER one earlier with the wood putty mess clearcoated over is not normal.

#3730 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

We have a AFMrLE and absolutely love it! With us, CGC resolved our issue promptly and we are extremely happy with the result.

What was your issue that was resolved? Wrong screen color? Planking? Chipping? Something else?

#3738 1 year ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

I was super excited to grab a classic early on but usually im the guy that waits for them to be made awhile so CGC could work out the bugs. So i get the nude color instead of orange and was told on phone thats just how it goes so i guess im lucky no planking or chipping yet. Its not worth pressing the issue and will just play my fun game. They did get me some plastics to replace the crazed ones. Going forward on any NIB game from any company i will have the distro open the box to set the game up for inspection .If the playfield sucks guess what they wont get my check and just walk out . Now its just getting a box of cracker jacks you dont know what the surprise will be

Wait, so you were told to live with the COMPLETELY WRONG COLOR on your BRAND NEW UNDER WARRANTY GAME playfield? That seems...unreasonable. I wonder how many others have that screened color screwed up like this? I mean, it's not like it's even close, and elsewhere on that layer, that color is used for a laser, so you have a NUDE laser beam in the art instead of an orange one? C'mon. That is NOT right.

AfMr-Screen-error-comparison (resized).jpg

#3742 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Oh yes" part of the creative process in producing a playfield" along with grainy planking. All part of convincing you that there really isn't anything wrong!

The planking I can see some leeway in interpreting since a LOT of playfields have it to varying degrees (stern is especially bad at times). So that one I can give them.

But the completely WRONG screen color on a WHOLE playfield is inexcusable. It's not artistic, it's a MISTAKE, and not the responsibility of the buyer to live with. That problem is black and white, no wiggle room. The playfields affected should be replaced on demand. What's the warranty for, if not CLEAR and OBVIOUS factory DEFECTS like THAT?

#3775 1 year ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

If nothing else, this thread provides a bit of inside information for prospective buyers.
It would seem if the problem is inexpensive to remedy, CGC/PPS will be by your side. If the issue is anything which requires CGC/PPS to dig into their pockets, well, then you may not like their response.

Which seems to confirm that, print aside, they have the worst in-practice warranty of the "big three" currently.

#3800 1 year ago
Quoted from jmagla:

Guess it just shows how much luck is involved. I've played almost 400 games in the 2 months I've owned it and love it. I had the shooter lane issue, left popper taking numerous attempts to eject the ball and after close inspection chipping under the mother ship, but nowhere else.
CGC gave me fixes for popper and left popper, and did so very quickly and effectively, and I'm grateful for the support recieved. I've fitted the full set of Cliffys with the exception of the SOL, I did try to fit it with the existing protector, but even after slightly bending, it affected the way the game played, so took it off. The existing one seems to do the job anyway and looks better.
All my issues are small, and to be honest as a newbie, I have learnt so much through the small fixes and taking bits off to fit cliffy's.
But....... I wouldn't be happy if the wrong colour paint had been used or I had major playfield issues, those that do - I hope you get them sorted to your satisfaction.

Doug took care of the PIC2.0 issue for us, even as the 2nd owner, which was appreciated given their outdated stance on second owner in-warranty support. But if I was a first owner and had the nude color screening error across the playfield that they said was "normal" and wouldn't swap out, I'd be pissed. That, plus the warranty thing makes a no-go for us on the next machine unless things change, despite the fact that we LOVE the AfMr overall.

#3806 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Why is the color variation an issue? Is it because it doesn’t match the original? For tspp, there are at least three versions of the playfield with the car on those playfields varying in color from pinkish to different shades of red. Mine is pinkish, which I consider most authentic relative to the show, but in terms of resale, it doesn’t seem to matter.

I would say because it isn't even CLOSE to the original, and doesn't match the rest of the playfield color scheme. Nude laser fire isn't a thing, and the giant area between the flippers would be nude and...red? Also, the orange-red design on the plastics would not match the nude-red combination on the messed up playfields because the color scheme and design is on the plastics AND the playfield, and the plastics don't have the wrong color. No. Just...no.

You can see what I mean comparing an inlane plastic with the right color combination to one of the nude playfield mistake color combinations. They don't match.

PF-to-Plastics-Nude-Compare2 (resized).jpg

It's not like CFTBL, where you have normal pink and hot pink - they're both pink variations. Nude has no relationship to orange. It's just wrong. I'd like to see picture of a whole playfield with this screening issue. I'm wondering if they grabbed the flesh tone from the woman by the flippers and just ran it on two layers of screening, forgetting to change the color.

#3809 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Does adding color leds under the cabinet add to the game play? If so, which one should I get? I don't wan to void my warranty connecting something that may damage the boards.

Under cabinet lighting looks cool, but really doesn't add anything to the gameplay.

#3810 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Because on the one hand CGC excuse themselves from fitting “Cliffy” style ( vireland ) protectors on the lock hole because it would offend the purists.

If they made a deal with Cliff and shipped with actual Cliffies from the factory like JJP is now on Dialed In, I'm sure the accolades would far outweigh any complaints from the purists. It's just an excuse.

#3822 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Looking at it from CGC's side, the colors are hand mixed, and screen printed. It's not an exact science and at what point is the orange too pink, and when do they decide it's close enough and not replace it?

I could buy this if the colors were *close*, but they're not. It's the flat out wrong color, period. I was thinking maybe they just forgot to change the flesh color on the girl when they changed the screens, running the same color twice. It's why I'd like to see a "nude" playfield picture of the area by the flippers since it has the girl and the "nude" mistake color in close proximity.

#3836 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I think this thread is being run by a few negative nancy’s and isn’t reflective of the overall condition of the machines being delivered.

How can we know that if people that open tickets are being actively discouraged from posting their problems to keep issues on the down low? I sincerely doubt they only ran one or two playfields with the nude color mistake. There are probably dozens if not more out there.

#3843 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I find it hard to believe they can't absorb $50 on a $8300 machine....hell I'd pay $8350 if they would just include....at least JJP is finally drinking the cool aid

That PLUS the manufacturer is reducing claims for chipped playfields by including the Cliffies. That has to be a net net benefit.

#3928 1 year ago
Quoted from Crispin:

Someone in the thread said the ribbed can eventually progress to splitting.

Let's not get too hysterical. I think you'd have to be REALLY negligent and/or in a super arid climate to get to that level. I've had lots of Sterns and a few B/W with planking and zero progressed to splitting, but they were all waxed frequently and kept in a climate-controlled house/location.

#3951 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Parts sent under warranty, cabinet issues, playfield issues, go through CGC. I have no say in it. So why get involved.

Voice of experience.

#3982 1 year ago
Quoted from Crispin:

I don't consider it hysterical to be concerned about something that might continue to get worse, it's my 8k. Hysterical would be my reaction to opening a box and finding I had to eat the playfield with the nude color and ribbed look under the clear.

Of course you're entitled to whatever feelings you have.

However, the point is in my experience with a LOT of machines from Stern(mostly) and B/W with this "effect", it is very unlikely to get any worse if the machine is waxed regularly and kept in a temperature controlled house/location. Exactly zero got worse that I have had. So yeah, that concern is a little hysterical. I'm talking about the generally mild planking effect in pics here. If it was all over the playfield or the grooves were very deep, that's a different story, but none of the pics here have shown one like that.

The playfields with the incorrect nude color screened, however, are totally unacceptable and anyone with one should be offered a *correct* replacement. There's no wiggle room on that point.

#4006 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I should invite you guys over for beer and pinball and we can sob over my nude playfield too, then play the F out of it

Can you post a pic of the area by the flippers? I wonder what that ball with the chick on it looks like with nude instead of orange in it since it's a pretty large area.

#4008 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Here’s mine:
I’ve never owned an original so tbh I didn’t notice the difference till it was pointed out in this thread. It’s amazing to play though! Kicked my butt so many times today then I got 4 blue lights and felt I was on my way to rtu. Then... drain

You just got a lighter orange, within what I'd call normal spec. It's not a nude error playfield.

#4014 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Man, those colors are way off...look at the roof. I've attached a photo from my HEP AFM...the PF was produced my Mirco and touched up & clear coated by HEP. Here is a photo from the archives of an original PF that seems consistent with mine (http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3781&picno=9820).
snaroff

Wow, that roof blue is WAY off in the CGC ones compared to original/HEP.

#4020 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

But it's all hand mixed silk screen paint. I would expect matching colors precisely is tough, but I don't know. Also, it's all hand-made so each one will end up being unique with faults and all, so CGC would have a hard time putting a 'mass produced' type warranty on it. It's just a guess but so much of this including the sanding/prep is a judgment call so it is hard to draw the line as to what you consider a fault. Either they are mass-produced in which case no flaws, or hand-made which means flaws, but I don't know, just a guess at this.

Bull. There's a thing called PMS color. Printers use it all the time to get EXACT colors EVERY TIME they run the same job. We're not in the 1950s. There's color matching tech even outside PMS that yields results that are consistent.

#4057 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Though I agree that nude laser blasts are odd looking and make little sense in the world as we know, the "colors are off everywhere" is only true if your comparing to the original. However the "colors are off" in general terms is subjective, as I would argue that the trees look more green in the remake which looks better IMO. To me, I don't care if it deviates from the original (that's why I picked up the LE and not a classic model), as long as it looks better and of course that is all a matter of opinion.

But shouldn't the playfield at LEAST match the plastics? THAT'S the problem with the nude playfield color mistake. It's CLEARLY a mistake because it doesn't even match the same design on the plastics.

#4126 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Finally got around to putting my red titans on my flippers/bumpers, man do I love these things...feels so much better. My first game after them I managed 3 super jackpots in one MB, never even got more than one before. Ended up collecting one more in a later MB for 4 total SJs. I'm at 244 plays on mine, everything on it besides the titans is factory. LE#533

Both your slings don't have the rubber resting in the channel on the back star post in those pictures.

#4144 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

In fairness though, do we know the result of the shooter lane putty incident? Did the owner contact CGC and get an answer?

I'm pretty sure in the post contact was made and the response was "that's the way it is", but I should probably go back and look it up to make sure I'm not confusing it with the nude color playfield mistake.

#4171 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I think we can read into the lack of posting about large problems. It appears that most have been taken care of and prefer not to talk about it.

Prefer not to, or were told not to by CGC as a condition of getting the replacement? Shutting up all of a sudden and not sharing the resolution isn't helping anyone.

#4174 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Maybe CGC is taking care of these issues so well, they ask the person receiving the awesome resolution to please stay quiet so everyone else does not think they also are owed something equally awesome for every little imperfection. If it made them go quiet, it must be some AWESOME comp they got out of CGC. Maybe going quiet equals the issue being resolved really well? We should assume that unless they post an update. That's my guess.

But for the really big problems like completely wrong screened nude color instead of orange, EVERYONE should be able to get a replacement - it's not a little imperfection, and it's plain as day. So remaining quiet about the scope of the problem or the resolution does not benefit anyone except CGC.

#4179 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Add your playfield to the list if you have an issue, but how nude is too nude? It's hand mixed paint.

The hand mixed paint excuse is just that, an excuse. PMS color has existed for DECADES and provides consistent results. The color matching computers at Lowes and Home Depot can provide very good results. If they're eyeballing the matching, they're morons. There are a wealth of computer controlled color-matching solutions, and they should be using one if they aren't already.

And even then, nude vs orange is PLAIN AS DAY. There's no ambiguity. I'd still like to see a nude playfield with the area by the flippers because I think they used the flesh tone from the woman twice and just forgot to change it on those playfields. If that's what happened, seeing that area would make it obvious.

AfMr-Screen-error-comparison (resized).jpg

#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

AfM Martian detailing pics...

Veery nice. High five!

#4235 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Your infinite wisdom comes to the rescue once again!
Tried with a rag, but was a little difficult to maneuver in that tight space. So got creative, and grabbed some hockey stick tape, Wrapped the top of the posts, got the vice grips, and with a little finessing, got them right out.
All Cliffys now installed, but seems the SOL once are ever so slightly raised. Are these supposed to be completely flush with the pf guys? I know some of the ones I've installed on my other games are up a little bit. Problem here is, I've had a couple of balls stop after bouncing around in the pop bumpers, and I have to nudge the machine a bit to get it to drop in the hole.

They should be flat with the playfield. If they're raised half a millimeter or so, you pushed the posts down too much or over-tightened, which tweaks the metal and makes it rise a little.

#4253 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

CGC has the best track record on pinside for being transparent and communicating both the good news and the bad. Perhaps there isn’t an issue? Stop digging.

Mmmm...no. I'd say that American Pinball has the best record for transparency and communication currently.

#4261 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I think vireland needs to create a graph.

Oh, no. It has to be an egregious problem like half a year with no "every two weeks" updates before I get in the mix. And I don't have a nude playfield, thank god.

That said, as much as we love AfMr LE, we won't be getting any more CGC games until they improve their lacking warranty (written or implied, I don't care) on the LEs to cover second owners in the warranty period like the other big boys do.

#4263 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I'm personally not concerned about whether ANY NIB machine I purchase has a warranty that is transferable...should I be?
I'm going to attempt to NOT sound like a douche here, but if I sell someone one of my HUO machines, and it plays perfectly when they purchase it (it would) ... why would I be concerned if the buyer has issues a week, month, or year from now?

Meh. It's bad form at these high prices for not-problem-free pins. Stern and JJP will take care of issues for 2nd owners (not for esoteric stuff, but real problems) even though their warranty doesn't explicitly state it. And given how much pins move around at the LE and CE level, this makes sense. If CGC wants to compete, they should, too. We buy a handful of pins a year, which at $7-$9000 a pop is nothing to sneeze at. I know there are others that buy much more. Offering the same protection as their competitors, even if only at the LE level, should be a no-brainer.

#4267 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

They will compete for the sheer reason that they are making the most coveted titles from the heyday of DMD pinballs and making them NIB. It’s not like they’re making original themes; they’re the nostalgia card for the kids who loved them in the 90s who now can afford to have them at home.

Well, that's great if they're not making clear mistakes like completely wrong colors on the playfield layers or shooter lanes half filled with putty under the clear that they indicate is fine. We'll see, but we're out on more expensive CGC pins until the warranty terms and coverage is competitive, and I don't think we're alone.

#4269 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I don’t see putty. I see knots in the wood beveled down to a cut through layers. Do you *really* think that CGC would use black putty? Come on.

Of course the black is the knot, but the scattered mess on top was ill-applied putty. It's pretty clear. Here, look again:

AfMr-shooter-lane1 (resized).jpg

Do YOU want an AfMr LE with this shooter lane? How did it even get out of the factory?

#4272 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

And you continue to make it sound like CGC is putting it flaw after flaw, and that’s simply not true. The majority of owners aren’t here, and the happy ones have nothing to post about. Forums are places where issues surface and congregate, sure, that makes sense. But you can’t and shouldn’t just create a reality that simple isn’t true/based in fact.

Look, I can only go off what the few people that have posted what their interaction with CGC went like because CGC is asking others with the big problems not to talk about their resolution (which makes no sense). And when CGC is saying the CLEARLY WRONG nude color screening mistake is an artistic thing, and normal for hand-mixed paint, that's a one buffalo chip too many.

Now, in my case, we got reasonable orange, not nude, and Doug handled the replacement Pic2.0 chip even though we're a second owner. He may even handle the crackling plastics issue since he said to open a ticket on it. All of that's great, and I appreciate my personal interactions so far. But, as long as these OTHER BS interactions are happening on bigger problems, no one should be cool with it, because someday it will be YOU being asked to eat a clearly mis-screened playfield because of the "hand-mixed paint."

#4276 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Yup; a few people. And If I had an issue, I’d have done what you did; work 1 with the manufacturer/distributor to get resolution.

Haha, Pinside can't do ratios. It thinks you want an emoji.

1 to 1 resolution with the manufacturer is the way to go, but not if they're handing out "artistic license" and "hand-mixed paint" excuses as a cover for clear mistakes.

#4457 1 year ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I know. It was a coincidence. I just wasn't sure if it was happening before I was messing around in the backbox.

Likely something just came partially unplugged when you were in the backbox. I'd just open it back up and check all the connections again carefully.

#4491 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Are you having Kruzman sand off the clear coat and apply his process? Guy did that here locally on his monster bash mirco and it is amazing.

If that's the way, why not just have Mirco send un-cleared printed playfields. Seems like it would save work and yield better results.

#4527 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

I am working at my new PMM Pinball Movie Mods
first will be my AFM
what do you think is the best place for it, i think the right ramp

Are the movies triggered by game events? Otherwise I don't see the point...

#4538 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

So is there like a well known Pinsider who always gets the 1000/1000 serial number of an LE game? Seeing games in the 900's so I'm curiuous who will get the final one. Also good to see more people going with the red titans...good taste.

They're not usually manufactured in order. You can have a high number with an early manufacture date.

#4540 1 year ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Or you could get #906 made on Jan 19th / 2018.

I don't know how CGC does it, but JJP and others you can request a number so the number and the manufacture date/order are not really connected since they don't go in order.

#4555 1 year ago

Just got replacement inlane plastics for AfMrLE to replace the two that came with the machine that had developed the crackling ink. 2nd owner, but this and the PIC 2.0 were both handled under warranty so...that's encouraging.

#4594 1 year ago

Runway's now clear for Iron Maiden reveal. Stern has to be happy they'll have the show to themselves.

#4599 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

While a little disappointing this news may not be a bad thing, perhaps they are looking into some of the quality issues raised with game #2.

If they're taking the time to investigate improving their clearcoat process and/or playfield wood stock so it gives results more like Bally/Williams days with regard to durability, I'm all for it! Delays are temporary, mediocrity is forever.

#4609 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Soooo, I’ve looked in settings and cannot seem to find the launch button/shooter coil power adjustment.... can someone please point the way.

You have to hold the service button in for like 4-5 seconds to access the CGC-specific menu.

#4618 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

I joined the club. Bought the last LE in green from Game Exchange. Any must haves? I will start reading the thread but it is 90 pages long.

Cliffies for the shooter lane, stroke of luck front and moving target panel. Make sure it's been upgraded to the PIC 2.0 chip so it doesn't blow up your driver board.

The lit UFO art blades that animate are pretty sweet. I recommend those for sure.

#4634 1 year ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Can you please post a pic of how you connected them. I still couldn't get mine to work.

I'll try to get some pics taken by tomorrow.

#4652 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

It must be an embarrassment for CGC that some buyers are now purchasing Mirco PF's to swap in to their AFMr's.

Why? They're off the hook to support it. I doubt they care at all that's happening.

#4685 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have ribbing

Honestly, it's more for her pleasure.

#4686 1 year ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Can you please post a pic of how you connected them. I still couldn't get mine to work.

Here you go - the connections for the pingraffix AfM lit/animated art blades. The third pic is probably the one you're looking for (where the wires inside the insulation are split out and connected to the power supply, but the other two show the placement of the adapter (laying in the cabinet).

afm_pg1 (resized).jpg
AfM_PG2 (resized).jpg
afm_PG3 (resized).jpg

#4690 1 year ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Thanks, I guess I was hooking it up wrong to the V+ and V- on the far right but you hooked it up to the furthest left 2 spots, blue and brown in that order. No instructions came with the product so if you got it to work then yours must be correct. The issue I have is that the PSU says 85V-120V going in and is not grounded at all. Thanks again for posting the pics.

We're the second owner (see: rant on CGC not covering second owners while warranty is still valid), but I was told it was purchased at a show with the pingraffix lighted kit already installed, so I'm assuming this is the "right" way to do it.

Does yours work now?

#4693 1 year ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

Now this is where this forum really pays off. I just bought a pair of these at TPF today,.. now I have the instructions in picture form. Thx vireland !!

Make a youtube video when you install yours and we can link to that! I have no idea why they don't sell them with instructions...

#4752 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I know on MMR there is no speaker bar logo since Williams didn't allow their logo be put on the remake machines; this is clearly not the case for the Bally logo, and even though I don't own a classic machine, I question the why there is no Bally logo on the classic machine, as there is clearly room for it.

Using the same panel for MMr and AfMr on the standards?

#4794 1 year ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

I may look to buy an Iron Maiden, and get out of my AFMRLE. The ruleset and flow really impressed me

Is the ruleset published already?? I mean, SOME stuff was on the live feed, but not anything like an actual ruleset.

It looks like Iron Maiden has flow to spare, but AfM is extremely flowy and more open, too. I doubt you'll get MORE flow. Looks like a lateral or maybe a little less.

#4809 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know what flipper strength you guys have settled on since the PIC 2.0 update.
Also, put the game at 6.5 (measured at flippers) with the outlane posts in the middle of each slot, and I can barely keep the ball alive. That sound about right for this game?

Seems to be almost a tossup between -3 and -4, but I ended up at -3.

#4818 1 year ago
Quoted from abeas:

-4 for me on flippers. At this setting, it feels more like the originals I have played. I am also at 6.5 at the flippers with outlane posts still in the factory position. I'll admit to being tempted to alter those post positions though.

The most brutal one on the machine here is missing the lock ramp and having the ball roll back out of the lane next to the center targets and right out the right outlane.

#4833 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Installed a full set of cliffies today, took about 1.5-2 hours, quite a few things to remove for sol and mother ship. Shooter lane and Target bank took 5 minutes, Target motor does not need to be touched. Are people still using the mantis protector for the sol hole with the cliffies? No way mine will fit in as tight as it was wedged in there.

I was able to get both there, but only on the front. Backside with both, the Cliffy bowed slightly, but just enough to stop slow balls, so had to remove it there.

#4852 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

What slant do you have your game set at? I'm getting drains from missed lock shots about 80% of the time.

Be more abusive of the machine to change the ball trajectory before it leaves the lock lane, or last ditch, as it rockets toward the right outlane.

1 week later
#4892 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Is there any huge difference between the Le and the Se besides the topper and the powdercoat? I’m debating between the two

The topper MAKES the game. It's not just for decoration and is interactive with the game.

#4935 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Does anyone have a picture of the LE in black trim. Deciding between Black and Green Trim

Green is the way to go. Pictures don't do it justice. I hated the green trim until I saw one in person at PAGG, then I knew that was the only choice.

#4938 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

(im also color blind...) lol

Well, correct that!

http://enchroma.com/

Favorite quotes from this video of colorblind people trying them for the first time:
"That's purple, right?"
"I didn't know those houses were painted colors. Wait. Someone painted their house ORANGE?"
"Are you crying?!"
"I'm not sure I'm believing this."

1 week later
#4973 1 year ago
Quoted from whitey:

Attack LE owners ?? Can the new screen be changed to no dots ?
Or soothing like a color dmd ???

No, and their frame coloring isn't nearly as advanced as ColorDMDs. You often see a single color messing up the screen on in-motion graphics (colored screens will turn just green, etc). It's in motion, so it's usually quick, but it's irritating, especially if you're used to ColorDMD.

#4978 1 year ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

What flipper rubbers do you guys use? Mine had titans in it and I couldn’t catch the damn ball. I put black rubbers on it and it’s still almost impossible to catch the damn ball without it just rolling off.
Also, where is the SoL supposed to shoot the ball to? Mid left flipper I assume ? My machine is level and it hits the metal at the top of the flipper making dead flips pretty risky at best.

Pinball Life's perfect play flipper rubber works great. Very nice ball control with it.

#4991 1 year ago
Quoted from Cidco:

I put glow in the dark rings from Titan Pinball and green plastic protectors from Pinbits on mine. I think it makes it pop.
Has there been any word on Planatary making more toppers? I’d really like one for my SE.
Rusty

Aren't the toppers LE-exclusive? Pretty sure you can't get them except on the LE, even as an additional purchase.

#5002 1 year ago
Quoted from Cidco:

I honestly have no idea. But I had seen this listing on The Ministry of Pinball website and assumed Chicago Gaming had made them available at some point, otherwise why would they list it separately at all?

Looks like a wishful-thinking placeholder with a 0.00 price.

1 week later
#5068 1 year ago
Quoted from PDX_Pinball:

Has anyone else had a problem with the ball not triggering the pop bumpers consistently? When the ball bangs around above the roll over lanes and comes thru slowly, often times it hits the pop bumper skirt but the coil doesn't fire. Is this a pf pitch issue? It's all 3 of them so I don't think its misaligned switches. My guess is that I need to increase the pitch so the ball has more momentum and will trigger the switch, but wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue first.
Thanks,
Bob

You just need to re-gap the switches on each pop bumper so they're closer (but not touching). As long as each pop bumper fires in the coil test, re-gapping them will make them much more active.

If any of the pop bumpers don't fire in the coil test, you have a dead coil, broken wire, or some other problem.

2 weeks later
#5126 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Anyone know how much it is to upgrade screen on classic to color? Also the default screen allows one single color right? Thanks

If it's like MMr, it's $399.

#5136 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Damn that is expensive. Doesn't the DMD that comes with it do color already so what are you buying?

The full color experience.

That's why there's really zero reason to buy the entry level AfMr if you eventually want color. The price difference between the Standard and SE is not much more than the cost of the color upgrade later.

#5165 1 year ago

AfMr GI lighting bug? I'm pretty sure there's a bug in the GI lighting for AfMr. I'm also pretty sure no one else will have seen it since it takes weeks of being on 24/7 before it can randomly show up.

But here's the deal. Sometimes I'll check this on location and the attract mode will be running like usual, but ALL the GI will be off (very similar to Strobe Multiball bit in the attract mode where this happens on purpose), but running through the attract modes endlessly like usual. All the other ufo lights, inserts...everything else is working and animated as usual, just every GI is out. Now, if I open the coin door and access the service menu, then exit back out, everything comes back and the GI is as-normal again.

Anyone else seen this?

#5171 1 year ago
Quoted from joeraptor2003:

If anyones interested..we are having a sale this week on our AFM PowerBladez..they were $299.00 plus shipping and handling
Now $265.00 with Shipping and Handling.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/attack-from-mars-powerbladez
Thanks
Joe

These look great on the game. Highly recommended!

2 weeks later
#5250 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

That’s why I hate all blades, look like shit after a while. I wish there would have been an option to not get the blades on the LE.

We have powerblades (the animated ones with the UFO beams that light up) and they still look great. I'd never have mirrorblades, though.

#5253 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

where did you get those from? Is it possible to "buff" out mirror blades?

They were already installed on the one we have since the initial owner got them, but they are very cool. Definitely recommend.

You can get them here: https://www.pingraffix.com/

1 week later
#5288 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I'm trying to install my SOL Cliffy and the post will not budge. The nut was removed from the bottom and it's stuck. Any advice?

Gently tap with a mallet (or a small hammer) from below as you twist with a pair of pliers from above.

1 month later
#5603 1 year ago
Quoted from glasairpilot:

No, it is not binding. When the motor is engaged it will rotate another 180 degrees very smoothly and it moves up and down freely manually. The problem is that the micro switches are mounted a little to close to the cam and are actuating too soon causing the assembly to stop before it should. There is zero adjustment available in the micro switches, so the only thing remaining is to bend the micro switch arms so they do not actuate so quickly. I hate to do that, but probably the only way to fix it. It is not a huge deal since it only affects you if you hit a very light shot into the mother ship area which can trap the ball up there.

That's the way to fix it. Is this a first pin for you? Bending switch arms is a common way to fix a variety of pin issues. You'll do it a lot.

#5609 1 year ago
Quoted from glasairpilot:

No, this is roughly #20 for me. My first pin was a ratted out TZ re-import. That was a fun one to break me in, lol
Anyway, I agree on adjusting switches if there is no other way to make them actuate at the correct time; however, this particular assembly could have easily incorporated slots for the micro switch to slide in. Also, being a brand new machine it should have been adjusted correctly at the factory. It is not a big deal, I will improvise, but I just thought someone else had dealt with it before.

They have dealt with it before...by bending the switch arm. Yeah, the switch mounting could be more flexible to allow better adjustment, but it is what it is, and the best way to make it work is to bend the switch arm.

#5611 1 year ago
Quoted from WizWiggy:

I have a LE on location, and a player said that the right ramp is awarding virtual ball locks? I played a few test games but couldn't duplicate. I went to settings but couldn't find an adjustment to change. Is this normal? Sorry if this was mentioned before. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Let me guess...in a bar?

1 month later
#5796 1 year ago
Quoted from Miknan:

“ a new issue unless I’m being a bit paranoid which is possible. I was playing a game this morning when I saw a very faint flicker, could of been my imagination but when I look at the animations it doesn’t look as smooth as before. I know when I had my color dmd for JD there were a few different color modes but reading through documentation and going through the menus I don’t see it for this game. Is there such a thing? Kept playing and when hit the ball lock where it shows the tanks I thought I saw the faintest flicker again. When something happened to the PcB board previously I think I may have hit that same shot but it happened so fast I’m not sure. Maybe I’m going crazy... but I could of sworn the display had a more smooth look.”
I think I’m just being paranoid. Different picture, different lighting but I thought it normally looked more like the big, smooth # in the pic I took when I first got it rather than the one I just took. BUT, when I do make the lock ball shot and lights are flashing as it says locked ball, it does dim just a fraction of a second while it’s flashing. Is this normal.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Without video it's impossible to tell. But maybe your switching power supply output is a little on the low side. Have you measured it?

1 week later
#5841 1 year ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Yes, I have the same thing on mine.

That's an ink adhesion failure from screening the PET-G plastic. They've been replacing it under warranty.

#5856 1 year ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Put some pingrafix powerblades in tonight.
Amazing[quoted image]

Yeah those animated powerblades really make the game pop.

#5873 1 year ago
Quoted from ctviss:

I'm officially in the club now, too! I took delivery of an SE last Friday and finished setting it up Saturday night. I have roughly 50 plays on it so far and I haven't had to make any mechanical adjustments, though the right outlane could probably be closed a smidge as I'm getting more ball drains there than the left (or maybe the left needs to be opened slightly.) I'm just waiting on the v2.0 PIC from the distributor, and I'll need to open a ticket with CGC to replace the cracking plastics.
I'm debating whether to install the Cliffy protectors as there is zero indication of wear on any of the holes, but I may do it just to be safe. I'm also thinking about DIYing some stadium lights. For now I'm just enjoying the hell out of it! I love when the Attack Wave starts and the whole cabinet shakes.
CGC did an excellent job. Reading some of the complaints here I was worried about the playfield being poor, but it's nice and smooth (except for some ball dimples; I like to think of them as battle scars...). Joe at PinballSTAR was also excellent to deal with, I totally recommend them.
Now if I win the lottery, I can buy the Monster Bash remake...
BTW, has anyone had buzzing/static from the speakers in attract mode? I've found that it gets louder as the backbox lights increase in brightness, so I turned them down a bit and it doesn't bother me anymore. Probably a grounding issue somewhere. It's not noticeable at all during gameplay.
[quoted image]

The EL panels in the powerblades make a high-frequency noise. Maybe that's what you're hearing?

I haven't tried it, but I'm pretty sure those AfM powerblades would look pretty awesome in Dialed In, too.

#5880 1 year ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Thanks CGC for the quick response on my plastics issue ...
[quoted image]

Did you have crackling in the ink on the large side piece, too? I've only seen the issue on the lane guide plastics so far...

#5882 1 year ago

Wow, that sucks. I hope it's not all the plastics that had the wrong ink. I thought it was weird that only the lane guide plastics were affected (on ours, too) because when this happened on The Shadow plastics supersets, it was all of them and at about the same time. Very expensive learning experience about ink compatibility on PETG materials. So it could mean that all the early run AfMr will eventually crackle, which sucks if that happens.

#5885 1 year ago
Quoted from ctviss:

All of my plastics have ink cracking to some extent. The worst are the lane guides, followed by the larger left/right side plastics, but if you look closely you can see it in certain areas of all of them. It seems to be contained to the red and black ink only, but maybe that's just due to the lighting and my green fluorescent protectors. The two flanking the mothership and right sling only have cracking in a tiny area that's hard to see, but it's certainly there so I want them replaced sooner rather than later (especially while it's still under warranty).
CGC promptly sent me a replacement set but the box arrived damaged and I can hear a broken piece moving around inside, so I'm just waiting for their response before I open it/send it back for another replacement set.
Here are some pictures...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, that's the same kind of plastic/ink failure I had on the first run of Shadow Supersets. Seems like they wouldn't have made that mistake again as it was pretty well documented online. It was an expensive lesson for me.

2 weeks later
#5909 1 year ago
Quoted from joeraptor2003:

Thank you guys!
Appreciate the kind words..truly. So glad you like them. We have more stuff coming..
We are currently out of the Powerlites but will be getting more in soon. They are in production
If anyones interested in the Backbox panels we are having a blowout sale on them here:
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/attack-from-mars-powerpanels-bally-williams-pinball
best!
—joe

Can those be installed without ruining the cabinet art so they could be removed later to make it stock again? Also, does it double the whine from the EL panels (art blades and these), or is the whine about the same level with these added?

#5925 1 year ago
Quoted from joeraptor2003:

Yes they can . We use a low tack double sided tape for installation. They come off easily wothout ruining your original art work.
About the same.

Great. Picked a set up just now. The buzzing was my only concern since it's already there very mildly with the powerbladez inside the machine.

Thanks!

8 months later
#7020 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Those are called plastic protectors.
Playfield protectors are currently made from polycarbonate and cover the complete playfield surface.
They play pretty good since they are pretty hard stuff.

They wear like crap over time and change the way the machine plays in some places. I hate them.

#7029 4 months ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

How long over time? I have probably close to 1000 plays on mine already, and still looks brand new. Plays fast and great! Everyone in my pinball group that's played my machine loves the way it plays.

Maybe they used to be made from polycarbonate, but now they're made from PET-G. From Playfield-Protectors.com's website:

I have no experience with the previous generation protectors, but so far, I'm loving the latest generation!

1,000 is nothing. It will look like crap, just wait. I've taken off enough to know. The real playfield surface always looks and plays best if you just keep it cleaned and waxed.

#7031 4 months ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

You may be right. And if so, it was $150 experiment gone wrong on a $8K game—BFD. If so, I’ll remove it, but at least I’ll have a new playfield still.
Or, maybe, just MAYBE, you were dealing with an earlier generation made of a different material.
Either way, it was worth $150 to try it.

We're 10 years into the "new" generation of playfields and plain old cleaning and waxing is still winning. And saying you'll remove the protector is easier said than done. They SUCK to remove. I don't know what your time is worth, but it will cost you a lot more than $150 if you factor that in.

But if you like them, great. I just want people considering them to realize that if they clean and wax regularly, they'll get just fine results.

#7047 4 months ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Thinking of getting a CE. A classic should be classic, not?

You're cheating yourself out of the best parts of the remake. The LE with the giant color screen and interactive topper are what it's all about.

#7051 4 months ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

LE is nice. Aren't they sold out though?
So CE no with color $6000, CE with color for $6400 or SE with larger color screen, better sound, tri color led main saucer, shaker with slightly longer warranty for $900 more at $7300 or find a huo LE. Hmmm toss up for me. All good IMHO

There's an LE in TN for $7500. I'd do that before a NIB "classic" or SE. It's THAT much better.

#7056 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Agreed. The LE is awesome and that topper is one of the best I've ever seen.

Yep. Blows the Monster Bash topper away. CGC set the bar so high with AfMrLE's topper they couldn't get back to it on MB.

#7089 4 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Four comments:
1) I just realized that this game has mirror blades and it looks REALLY good. Now compelled to add to my POTC.
2) I can light “Video Mode” never, ever. It just doesn’t happen. I have played around 500 games and don’t recall it happening once.
3) The ball is struggling...a bit to successfully get up to the pops so I may bend the metal a touch or whatever during the next waxing and continue to address.
4) Sometimes when playing pinball things just don’t go your way. I played for around an hour or so last night and I COULD NOT for the life of me destroy just two countries. So disheartening.

1. Powerbladez look better on AfMr, IMO.
2. You just need to keep the ball in the pop bumpers. When you get down to 0, next SOL hit gives you video mode (you can bank a smart bomb to use in the video mode by hitting launch when the Cow is in the beam animation)
3. Never had a problem, but know some do...
4. I do not concentrate on that center shot, but just let it happen when in multiball or doing other things.

#7092 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I've been struggling to hit the launch button now to get the moo, some other game (will go unsaid) has me trying to hit a damn action button on the lock down bar.....

Game specific habits can really suck sometimes. After a long period of concentrating on Iron Maiden almost exclusively I got in the (bad for any other game but IM) habit of plunging for the left outlane on purpose - trying to drain the ball from the get-go. Found myself mindlessly doing it on other games. Really annoying.

#7101 3 months ago
Quoted from Cobray:

So a friend of mine just bought an AFMr-LE sight unseen, it was kind of a strange deal (pin was sold and flipped twice in a week, seller claimed he bought a AFMr Standard and that was his reason for selling so quick) but the guy he bought it from threw out some big names for references and swore the game was mint with less than 100 plays. The seller threw some tactics at him that I will not get into here, but I can tell you it was kind of crazy. He didn't want to post but agreed to let me post this up to get people's opinion on the playfield and how to move forward.
The game arrived and this is what the playfield looks like, look at the inserts and playfield :
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

At least the lasers and fire beams aren't flesh colored. It could be worse...

#7143 3 months ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Mine was a show deal game so was played for 3 days and about a total of 540 games. It still looked brand new at the end of the show.
I did buy the cliffy set but I see no need to install at the moment, after 1200 games still looks perfect. Will keep the cliffys for insurance.

Stroke of Luck will chip and once it does you can't undo it. I'd put the cliffy at least on that now.

1 month later
#7283 77 days ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

That piece connects the right wire form to the plastic ramp. Your top image is correct side up. The attached photo should clear it up.[quoted image]

That piece is riveted on. How bad was that riveted if BOTH rivets failed?

1 month later
#7310 45 days ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

My other question, I have yet to get video mode?

Get super pops (count down the pop count to 0) then the next stroke of luck you get will be the video mode. You can use saved martian bombs (like smart bombs that wipe out everything) with the ball launch button in the video mode.

#7317 45 days ago
Quoted from tpir:

Noticed something kind of odd with my machine the past few days... if I leave it on for a long period of time the volume gets progressively louder. The actual volume setting in the menus remains unchanged, but if I play the game after leaving it on for a few hours it will be about twice as loud as when I play after first powering it up?!
Has anyone else ever seen or heard of anything like this? Have not reached out to distro/CGC yet but kind of worried there might be a short/feedback somewhere.

What CGC firmware (not the Bally ROM) do you have?

#7319 45 days ago
Quoted from ausretrogamer:

I noticed (in a split second) some colour blending when the score is shown after each ball (when bonuses are added to the score). Anyone else notice this? It’s only happened once, but it was enough to get my attention. Will keep an eye on it to see if it’s a regular thing or a one off.

It's apparently due to the crappy way they're colorizing the video (compared to ColorDMD's way). If you slow-mo the video, the shifting and blending is all over the place. But be warned, once you can see it in slo-mo, you'll never UN-SEE it in regular speed. Bugs me all the time now because I was dumb enough to slo-mo it and accidentally train my brain what to see.

3 weeks later