Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,544 posts
  • 430 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by mrWol64
  • Topic is favorited by 211 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (1 year ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (1 year ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (1 year ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (1 year ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (1 year ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (1 year ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (1 year ago)

Post #494 LCD screen info Posted by spazzman90 (1 year ago)

Post #639 workaround - to drooping shield targets Posted by markp99 (1 year ago)

Post #1966 Info on Easter eggs Posted by bigd1979 (1 year ago)

Post #2062 cliffy saucer install. Posted by PDFVT (1 year ago)

Post #2201 Urgent attention to flipper strength rates message from CGC Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #2952 speaker lights for AFMR classic Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #3001 SOL PIC Posted by Damien (1 year ago)

Post #3167 Picture of crazed plastics defect on AfMr Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)

Post #3174 list of issues Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#314 1 year ago

Where do I find the Strobe multiball adjustment? I'm version 1.1

#320 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Do you mean to make the strobe light brighter or dimmer ?
You aren't on version 1.1, you hit the enter button and that number is from the Williams software.
Hold the escape button for 5 seconds or so to get into the CGC menu, keep hitting the escape button once you are in there to advance to the next screen. The 5th screen, bottom, is to change the strobe light.
The first screen shows what software is in your game. 1.0.0. , if you need it, here is the link of what you need :
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/afm_update.php
LTG : )

Just what I was looking for!

Thanks

#333 1 year ago

Really impressed with CGC from the packaging to the final product. Pallet made out of high end wood along with topper box, legs packed at bottom and extra card board and Styrofoam used to keep game safe through transit. Really big improvements since Medieval first came out. I was worried the mirror blades would have scratches or get scratches eventually and this play field slides in and out of this cabinet so nicely that there's no worries.

Can really tell CGC has raised the bar on the manufacturing now that it's in house-Cabinet feels a bit more solid than MMr as well. Either way, very happy.

Still not sure what to do with that beautiful topper though. I just went topperless

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#337 1 year ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

Extend the wires and make a wall mount for it. there has to be some wall space in there that you couldn't fill with a pin.

That's a good idea, i've got a few other toppers that I've been thinking about making a display for.

#342 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Did you open the box to see if the game was OK? You may be surprised as it is packed in there good.

Someone else had a box that showed up like that(maybe worse) and the game was fine. After reading your're most recent post, I'm surprised they don't want you to tear it open just a bit and inspect without opening.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/afmr-unboxings/page/8#post-3905698

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#345 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Concealed amage can bite hard if the box looks like that...absolute rule...don't accept it unless your willing to fight over problems that aren't initially evident....been down this road a million times.

After unboxing one, it just appeared as though it caved in in the empty area of the box or weak spot when topper is tied to. There's nothing for about 14 inches down and the game sits on foam underneath and is protected for 2.5 inches on bottom and 4 inches + on the sides. The topper sits on top of the coinbox and is that is protected by foam as well. The side it gets trucked from is the side the cabinet is right against.

I get it, it's a lot of money and always better to be safe than sorry. Just sucks to have a game right on the front door that has to be sent back and CGC has said to refuse it, so can't really go against that. Sorry you have to go through that

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#366 1 year ago

Put Cliffy's under Saucer and married them up with the factory Mantis style protectors on the scoop. Was a bear to combo them in scoop area, but that area's going to take some abuse and now fully protected.

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#368 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

sparechange1974 did you take the mantis style one out? A brief description of the steps would be very help as I plan to do the same.
Neil.

Just a forewarning that it's a tight fit and may not go very smooth, lots of tinkering with the playfield up and down trying to get the Cliffy to stay flat(combined with mantis style) with all that pressure behind it trying to bend it forward. Ended up bending the Cliffy lip down just a bit, but took quite a few tries to get it right.

Yes, the factory Mantis style will need to be removed first and it pops right out after you remove the scoop(unplug) and two bolts holding the protector in. I'm including the directions from Cliffy's site, they'll be the best place for direction for the front S.O.L. install and you want to follow those steps first.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/AFM-thin/afm_thin.htm

For the rear(this assumes you've already followed steps in the front S.O.L removal from Cliffy's site), I had to loosen up the right side Martian plastic to get to and remove the metal ball guide and corresponding 2 screws, loosen right ramp up starting with flaps and reaming front bolt(to loosen red post underneath), then remove stand up target screws(below playfield). This should give you a clear path to slide the the rear Cliffy in place. Once Cliffy's are installed, the Mantis style should slide back in there. She's tight, so lots of patience is required. I found having a hand holding Cliffy's in place while putting Mantis style worked best. Took a couple light taps on Mantis once it was in there to sit flush.

For whatever its worth, I needed to make the hole in the front SOL Cliffy a bit bigger as the post(when installed) wouldn't allow the Cliffy to sit flush against front and it wouldn't install right as a result. I've already emailed Cliffy on that, possible it was just a one off.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/AFM-thin/afm_thin.htm

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