Hi all, loving this game! I think I may have gotten the last NIB example last week (SE version).

Was going through my tests and found one that doesn't work, Saucer Dome Flasher. My Saucer Dome Flasher is stuck on, pretty much from when time I turn the power on until I turn it off (no flashing). Everything else works great. This of course doesn't effect gameplay, and I did put in a service ticket with Chicago Gaming. Thought I'd throw it out to see if anybody has seen this problem. Don't think it used to do this, as I have pictures (from recording high scores) with the light off.

Thank you

Thank you!

I actually just set my high score and got grand champion after owning this game for a week. Then it was clear that the game wanted me to go away. I hit so many rubber posts in a row for so long (wish there was a combo for that!) that the ball finder came on while I was actively playing the ball. no chance I could do that again if I tried. Ugh and lol and that’s when it’s time for me to turn off!

I played AFM out in the wild, CP Pinball in Roxanna, IL, $15 by reservation for 5 hours and best collection I’ve ever seen, all pristine. Would highly recommend if you’re in the area. It was really sensory overload for me.

Anyway, the AFM (and many of the machines here) seemed to have the flippers angled up a bit more than I’m used to, makes for an easier cradle and on AFM, I think I had 3 saucers down in like 2 minutes, made that center shot way easier. Felt like I could hit it with the ball anywhere on the flipper, and just way easier to get control of the ball again. This game doesn’t seem to have any wide shot requirements (the Martian targets are most), so any downside to making this adjustment (other than re-learning the ramp shots of which I couldn’t hit any on this other machine)?

Here are my flippers, still how they came out of the box.

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In my best game I lost a ball off the return (down the right side of playfield) from the ball lock (left of saucer, no lock so it made its way around). The ball came flying off the wires into the right out lane. Drain. New machine so flippers are pretty powerful, assuming I just live with this.

Also on my CGC games (MM and AFM), seem to get a lot of spin on the bulls, creating some weird behavior (ball running up and off a cradled flipper, etc) Usually after a lot of fast action. Don’t see this as much on Sterns or JJP. Maybe just the flipper rubber they come with?

I believe it uses wire taps to go into the backside of a few moles connectors (a pair for GI, the other for flasher).

Hi all, anybody know of CGC sells the playfield protector or “cliffy” for the remake drain hole? I normally get all Cliffy’s but apparently this is unique to the remake. My Medieval Madness Royale sitting right next to it has the metal piece I need. My playfield is pretty hammered at the drain hole was really surprised to see that, got the game in March, HUO. Thanks

I ordered one, and when it came, it was small (same as a Stern which I think has a smaller drain hole). Would have covered about 60% of the drain hole (from my recollection). I ended up using it on my AIQ, so no issue. Maybe I need to look at it again.

If you compare the link the protector that came with my MMr Royal, they are different (don't need the wrap around, but it's just much bigger on the front, covering the entirety.

Is this sort of drain hole wear common on the CGC remakes?

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That's exactly it, thank you, ordered. Interesting that their cheapest shipping method for a $18 part that could fit in an envelope is $16 through Fed Ex Ground. Ugh.

If I recall, I got PinStadiums as my AFMrSE’s bright playfield LED’s we’re contrasting too much with my fairly crappy lighting I have around my machines. PimStadiums helped reduce that contrast. I have them in all 9 of my machines, I really think they are game-changers for my play.

Might need a flipper rebuild, coil stop, sleeve, plunger/crank. The plunger might mushroom at the end and hang up.

Any idea why my start button stops flashing during attract mode after the machine has been on for awhile? I’ve got a MMr right next to it and a bunch of WPC machines, and it’s the only one. Wondering if it’s part of the power save? Trivial problem, or not even a problem, just curious.

So while I wait for a new PF PCB (warranty item) thought I might throw out my issue to see if anybody has any thoughts.

My saucer flasher (3 LED’s through the green dome) is on full time, from the minute I flip the power switch to the minute I turn it off. I’ve changed out 3 saucer boards (still does it) and I’ve run a continuity test all from the saucer board (J1 pinall the way through to PF PCB (J14) and then all the way to the little Q43 chip that controls the flasher (lower right leg).

What I did notice recently (as I’m waiting on several months now for a new board) was that when I test the flasher (in the settings), it actually does flicker just a hair (you have to look very carefully!), so it’s getting the signal. But it’s like the power is bleeding through full time. I’m a bit over my skis on the electrical side, but is it possible maybe a diode is bad allowing power through to this flasher lamp full time?

Haven’t posted this for a bit, anything I can do to test? I can solder, never soldered such small connections (maybe should have bought an original with bigger boards!)

Thanks!

My observation is that Titans are the most grippy / bouncy rubbers out there, which adds a new element to slower games (widebodies or older WPC games), but would make a tight high power sling fast game like AFMr or a new Stern much harder to play or control the ball. I also think this adds a bunch of spin to the ball. Their post sleeves are the same way, uninstalling them on games with tight shots surrounded by posts, as it it nicks the post it rejects. That’s my experience.

All that said, when my AFMr came out of the box, the ball seemed to have a lot of English on it (I’d catch it on a flipper and it would race right off the end!), but as the new stock rubbers wore in, it went away.

I love Titans, my first choice on bands. I use the low-bounce flipper rubber in every machine. The bands and posts are just a little too bouncy for the fast games imho

Did surgery on my AFMrSE tonight. All was a success. Did a warranty playfield PCB swap as my saucer flasher was stuck on. Got the error on the screen (see pic), and after checking connections, had to swap out the big bios chip from my original board, and it works great now, solved the issue. Just an FYI if anybody has to do the same thing. Anybody know the technical reason for this? Does the particular chip have to pair with the main board? Just curious.

Thanks!

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Last time I had an issue with a VUK sending the ball down the middle or the wrong way (my TZ slot machine), I lifted up my playfield and found that the underside mount of it was loose. Somehow the wood screws backed out or whoever shopped it didn’t finish. You might check that.

Concur

Back in the club again, SE last time, LE this time. Almost forgot how buttery this game shoots! I’m a better player since I owned the last one, ruled the universe for the first time and got 39b. Question, what’s the best scoring strategy after ruling the Im universe?

Also - note to self, CGC cabinets should be a 2-man job, they are heavy compared to a Stern. Taking it out of the back of my truck, almost lost it to the side, would have been ugly. Never again!

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Sitting pretty!

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