(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

3 years ago

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  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by Flynnyfalcon
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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (3 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (3 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (3 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (3 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (3 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (3 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

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#126 3 years ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Sorry guys are you saying cliffys won't fit on the remake? I have been waiting three weeks for cliffy to send me protection for this game.... for the saucer hole, SOL scoop and the drop target? Should I get a refund from cliffy? Does CGC sell protectors?

Cliffys are great and offer complete protection. They should fit well enough on this game.
The included protector is the mantis amusements style protector. It should do the job excellently also.

The mothership slot protector that cliffy offers is a great idea for long time protection as well as the other ones in the complete setup.

I think most of the enthusiasts in this group will probably get some of the cliffys too.

1 week later
#178 3 years ago
Quoted from greenhorn1:

The only thing I disliked was the brightness of the insert LEDs but I'm not a huge LED fan to begin with.

The LED brightness can be adjusted. There is even am incandescent emulation mode for the lighting effects. So you can make it as bright or as dark as you want.

#191 3 years ago

In like Flint !

Wow I loved James Coburn, he is sadly missed.

#213 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hi all,
Just unboxed. I am not particularly picky but had a question about a couple little blemishes on my playfield. I don't think there're ball marks (I have a few, but these spots look like they're in the clearcoat). I didn't have time to take the glass off but I'll try to tomorrow. Normal?
I otherwise love the game and can't imagine opening a ticket over this. Just wondering though. I took the pictures with the light just right. You usually can't even notice them.

That is definitely looks like a screw pushing thru, open a support ticket and get it replaced as soon as possible.
If not it will chip out and leave a large hole later down the road.

#232 2 years ago

I would pull out that protector and add the Cliffy one now, it will look like new.

#277 2 years ago
Quoted from LP30:

Just had my first malfunction. The diverter was reporting a test error. On closer inspection, the bracket had come loose from the diverter arm. Replaced and tightened the set screw and it's good to go. That set screw may be worth a check. It explains why it was only opening part way from the beginning

Maybe put a little blue loctite on that set screw.

#294 2 years ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Its hard to tell in the pictures, but is your SOL hole protector level with the opening?

It looks low in the pics. It should rest no more than 1/64" below the surface, flush would also be good.

1 week later
#382 2 years ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Has anybody tried the Lobster Mod?... is this for AFM(1995) or AFMR?
» YouTube video

Other than adding silly toys to dress up the game, maybe come up with something to cover the ugly hex post sticking up between the ramps.
Its there to solve a ball trap issue but, it really needs something on it to make it look finished.

Modfather? Anyone else??

#396 2 years ago

I would like to install headphone jacks on my AFMrLE.


Does anyone else want to do this?

#397 2 years ago

Just received my AFMrLE 0139 !
The game is even more stunning than the sample game I played back in March!
The sound and LED effects are amazing!

This game is a definitely must have for anyone on the fence about getting an AFM or AFMr !

My game was shipped FEDEX freight from IL to NV. only 4 stops along the way.
The game arrived so perfectly, it looked like it would have if still on the factory floor. Not a dent or scratch in the box at all, not even a spec of dust! WOW, just WOW!

Setup was fast and simple. I did however replace the standard pinballs (from the factory, nothing wrong with them at all) with super shiny ones. It seemed appropriate as the game just GLEAMS with beauty!

The game played well on initial startup. The only adjustments I made were to increase flipper to +2 and push strobe lights up one notch for gameplay options.

Also had to push the trough coil up to max to get the ball served 100% of the time on the first attempt (it was set at +1 from the factory).

I have the pitch at 6.9 degrees and it plays perfectly for now.

We put about 20 games on it last night and intend to give it a proper workout tonight and this weekend.
The game plays as smooth as silk.
The flippers came set centered to the lane guides and look slightly drooped compared to some other games, but they are actually just centered. This makes hitting the side targets a joy! Im going to leave them this way for now.

The LED set at slow incandescent emulation (from factory) are just about perfect for me I made no adjustments as they were bright and crisp and easy to read all the inserts.

The only other adjustment was to enable a 10 second ball save. We are so used to a center post from our JJP games, it was comical to watch people drain a ball SDTM and look shocked that it didnt bounce back into play!

Lastly I want to install headphone jacks. Its necessary in my small game room to hear the call outs when all the games are playing.


#401 2 years ago
Quoted from Brady2Gronk:

Got my AFMrLE today. Got it all set up but it doesn't boot. It flashes the logo then reboots. Lights are on but no screen or ability to play. I put in ticket with CGC but seeing if anyone else has had similar problem here. Would really like to get playing. It's torture seeing it there and not able to play it.

Are all of the connectors seated on all of the boards?

#402 2 years ago

Im getting a lot of ball trough rejects that wont allow the ball to be served.
Im playing with the settings and have it at MAX.
MAX seems too strong and the ball looks like its bouncing off the lip of the apron.
The original setting was +1 and would fail to serve the ball 1 out of 5 times. Should I bend the tab like we did on the WOZ?
I havent taken the time to look at it yet, the game worked pretty much perfectly out of the box other than a few rejected serves.

#408 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Try less power first. Then bend tab like on WOZ. http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
LTG : )

Ill take a look at it tonight and report back.

Thanks Lloyd!

#410 2 years ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

adjusted flippers to more closely align with the lanes

I almost did that.
But the slight droop makes it easier for me to hit the martians and orbits, but near impossible to backhand the stroke of luck.
So Im on the fence about adjusting the flipper angle until I get a couple hundred more plays on it.

#444 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ill take a look at it tonight and report back.
Thanks Lloyd!

I bent the side tab out about 1/8" now it works perfectly very time on the default as well as the +1 setting.
On close inspection the ball was getting "squeezed" before getting to the shooter lane and falling back into the trough.

Bending the tab worked really good just like on the WOZ!

#462 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Yep, screws were in the bag with the plate.

The screws are black and could be 1/8" longer if possible.

#465 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Question on Playfield Inclination:
After an initial adjustment, using my digital laser level down near the flippers, I see my desired value of 6.7 deg. When I slide the level up near the center 3-bank, I get a reading of 5.5 deg. Left-to-right is dead nuts 0.0 deg at both locations. Is this variation in inclination typical? Slightly warped playfield? Concerns?

The game is made on a piece of plywood it will settle down in a few weeks.
I usually measure in 3 places and set it to an average of 6.5 for most games.
I have my AFMr set at 6.7 degrees right now it plays fast and fun!

The outlanes are brutal, same as the original!

I hesitate to close the outlanes to make the game play easier but Im not looking for long ball times. I have the Hobbit for that.
I have had great games with the outlanes set as is from CGC.

The AFMr hits it out of the park on so many levels.
I want to sell my MM and get the MMr now !

#470 2 years ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

What do you guys have your pitch set to? I have mine set to 7.4 and it rarely has that issue. Maybe 1 out of 20 plunges. When I had mine set lower, it felt floaty and the shots weaker. Plays like a beast as is.

I had the pitch at 7.2 and the game was really fast! Oddly with that pitch the outlanes were less brutal.
But I settled at about 6.7 degrees with a little higher flipper power.
I get an airball once in awhile but I think the game play seems more balanced at 6.7 degrees, and allows for some nudging fun.

#482 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just got my LE, set it up, and balls are not loading into trough. Flippers aren't working. I'm lost!
The game is on, music and lights going, and the target bank keeps going up and down and the gates keep clicking.
Did I miss something on the install? I plugged it in, loaded balls...
Help please!

My regular checkup on a shipped game:

Turn off the game.
Check every single connector under the playfield and in the backbox by unplugging and replugging.
Take careful notice that no pins in any connector are pushed out and no wires are loose or cracked or over crimped on connectors.
Check that the fuses are not loose.
Check that the beaglebone black board is seated properly.
look for any loose wires.

After a few games check every single screw for tightness and glue in any loose ones with titebond 3.

Stuff comes loose in shipping.

#543 2 years ago

There is no flipper delay on my game at all.
The flippers are as crisp and new feeling as any of my other NIB games.

However I noticed that the button travel to engage the switch is deep. Not that its any deeper than most other games.
It might be possible to shorten the button travel or lengthen the actuator to get it a little more "hair trigger" feel.

#567 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

Sometimes 2 layers of "beer seal" (foam weatherstrip)...

This works really well especially if you cant quite get adjusting the brass screws to fix it.

#595 2 years ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

Just arrived! No back box key for me though. Checked inside coin door very carefully and then inside cabinet thinking it may have come loose. No luck, so no topper. Awesome game so far though!!! Pics soon.

The key is hard to spot.
Its on a buried hook above the left coin mech (with door open). I couldnt find it either but I found it a day later.

#596 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Thanks, I'll see about the others then.
Sadly at least 3 of the main plastics have cracking paint out of the box so ill have to open a ticket.
Im getting some crazy airballs off the mothership and center martian targets, like jumping over the flippers once in a while crazy. Should I be looking to adjust these or is that normal?
All in all though this game is amazingly fun and im very happy.

Raise the playfield pitch a little and turn down the flippers 1 notch.

#598 2 years ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

Yeah, I'd read posts about it weeks ago. So I knew where to look and how it was supposed to be difficult to find. And then I've gone back a few times to really really check. It just isn't there. I did open a ticket just a little bit ago and am sure they'll get me sorted out. I may end up taking the lock off via the two screws I see up there. That way I can connect the topper!

Post a pic of the area of the coin door, it might be a fun "Where's Waldo" game for us!

#604 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I don't see a key, but the coin mech on the right is loose and the locking screw is missing.

Good call on that!
Definitely no keys on the hook...
Maybe the missing thumb screw and keys are stuck to the speaker magnet from shipping?

#611 2 years ago

I think its simpler the just add additional foam weatherstrip to the lockdown bar and clamp the glass down better in case of rattle.

#613 2 years ago

Im getting some random firing of the diverter when the slings are fully engaged during a game.
Maybe the switch is set too close in the diverter?

Ill try pounding on the PF during a game to see if I can replicate the behavior.
I hope its not a short...

#615 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Dont believe there is a switch in the diverter? Sld be computer controlled i believe?

Might just be a loose connector then. I think Ill get into it and start reseating connectors.
I think its under the PF, but you never know, it could just be a loose connection in the backbox.
It looks like its vibration related as it only does it when the slings are both going in full swing.

Thinking along those lines, I believe it only pulses when a ball is locked, and only when the slings fire.
Probably just a loose connection/bad crimp/cold joint on the diverter coil that loses power after being actuated.

It acts kinda like when a pop bumper is set too close and you pound the PF and they fire.

I had a similar problem on WOZ that we called the "Ghost of Dorothy".
When the pops would fire you would hear dorothy saying a single word over and over in the background.

It happend to be the first standup target above the state fair balloon was bent slightly and set too close (they take a lot of abuse). So vibration would make dorothy come alive during a game and talk.

I really liked the idea that Dorothy was dead and buried in the haunted forest! But my wife said it was annoying.

#617 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Possibly a dumb question but if I want to turn my flipper strength down do I go minus or plus.. I know sometimes these things or the opposite of what you would think.


#618 2 years ago

I finally closed the outlanes a bit.
I felt that the 67 second ball times were too rough on the crowd that plays my pins.
I also raised the pitch to 7 degrees with the flippers at +1. Some games were a bit floaty at 6.7 degrees.

I really liked the way the outlane adjustment is completely variable and not locked into 3 holes, so I can get it just exactly right.

Ball times are up a little but outlanes are still brutal enough that nudging is required to have a great game.
I still have my flippers set to the factory setting of slightly drooped. It throws everyone off a bit as far as aim but I think its really fun.

#646 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Might just be a loose connector then. I think Ill get into it and start reseating connectors.
I think its under the PF, but you never know, it could just be a loose connection in the backbox.
It looks like its vibration related as it only does it when the slings are both going in full swing.
Thinking along those lines, I believe it only pulses when a ball is locked, and only when the slings fire.
Probably just a loose connection/bad crimp/cold joint on the diverter coil that loses power after being actuated.
It acts kinda like when a pop bumper is set too close and you pound the PF and they fire.
I had a similar problem on WOZ that we called the "Ghost of Dorothy".
When the pops would fire you would hear dorothy saying a single word over and over in the background.
It happend to be the first standup target above the state fair balloon was bent slightly and set too close (they take a lot of abuse). So vibration would make dorothy come alive during a game and talk.
I really liked the idea that Dorothy was dead and buried in the haunted forest! But my wife said it was annoying.

Refreshing connectors did the trick.

#662 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I use an 8" long piece aluminum and hold it against ball guide rail; then, I just move the flipper paddle up to it and lock it down.

AFM has always had that little droop in the flippers. Its part of the design, hence the alignment holes being where they are.
The flippers arent actually drooping they are just centered.

A lot of games are set that way, its part of the game.

If you un-center the flippers it makes it harder to hit the side martian targets which is a big part of the game, "killing martians"?

Im leaving my flippers set at the factory angle (droop) and having a blast!
Yes the outlanes are brutal, Yes the ramps reject bad shots and yes the game is tough with shorter ball times most of the time.

But the joy is that not all games are brutal.
Every so often I have a game that lasts forever and everything just "clicks". Followed by a sense of euphoria and accomplishment.

If I want long ball times I can play my Hobbit or WOZ.

AFMr is such a rush there really isnt any reason to fix it or simplify it or make it easier.

As far as the slings are concerned the adjustment isnt fine enough.
Max is just dumb, +1 is too strong, default is too strong and min is too weak.

Im hoping this can be addressed in future code updates.

Give is a few more increments of control on all of the coils.

I guess Im just spoiled with JJP giving us 32 levels of control on the coils to dial them in perfectly.

Oh well JMHO...now its time to "Return to battle soldier"...

#672 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

In order for me to get anywhere near 6.7 I'd have to raise the front legs like crazy, not sure if that's just how it is or what.
My back legs are pretty much as low as possible, and I still had to raise the fronts a good amount to get to 7.2

Are you measuring with the glass off, on the playfield directly?
Use a cellphone app or a digital level.

#674 2 years ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Attacking Mars is the part that keeps me from RTU. Those up the center shots are very dangerous and too often end up going down the right outlane or SDTM. The other objects are all very doable, though getting them all in a single game is still challenging.

Since the center shots are offset to the right, its allows me to hit target from the left flipper and bounce off to the right flipper back onto the left flipper. Rinse,repeat.
Its not super easy but doable once in awhile.

#683 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

After playing for awhile. I ended up at 6.7 on mine. Lowered flipper and sling strength by 1 level. All that being said, this is a very brutal game, with lots of opportunity for airballs coming from the center. Fast shots, unforgiving post spots, and other things seem to make for an exciting, exhausting experience. A great machine.
This game is a must for plastic protectors, imho......ordered a set from pinbits last night. Hope the original AFM plastics are the same size as the ones in AFMR (Lloyd)?

They should be identical.

#716 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

What helped? He suggested you check 3 different things. Please specify for posterity's sake. Thanks!

Maybe refreshing the connections to the opto boards?

#737 2 years ago

After awhile my start button stops flashing.
Its a very small issue but seems odd.
Is is a bad LED? I took it out and checked the wires, they seem proper.

It starts flashing again if you start a game and flashes for a long time then stops again.
I dont think I have a spare to swap out.
It will not start flashing by pounding on it or wiggling it, only by starting a game or power on/off.

What is the type of LED in the start switch, 6 or 12 volt and the color? I really should get some spares I guess.

#744 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Please check if the leaf blade switches on the left sling need adjusting because one is too close.
LTG : )

I had some random sling actuation also and adjusted the leafs.
The factory adjustment was very "hair trigger" which is fine, but a little bit close for me.

Lloyd, what would be a proper gap for sling leaf adjustment? Do people prefer them to be hair trigger?

I have mine at about 1/32" (1mm). They can be closer but I dont want a ball rolling along the rubber to activate when just returning to the flipper.

I want them responsive but no too hair trigger.

After a few adjustments I think its about right for me.

#745 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I've only had one oddity thus far that baffles me a bit....left sling will occasionally trigger when I hit the left flipper button. Very random.
Been too busy enjoying the game to pop the the top and see if it's an obvious thing yet.....probably poke around later this week....

This is good news, thanks!
Im glad its not just me this time

#771 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Quick question for anyone who changed the flippers from factory droopy to align it with the ball guide... Is it now more difficult to hit the martians on the flanks? I'd assume hitting the ship is easier since you hit it more off the centre than base, but curious to know how it changed the shots to the martians as well as the obits and ramps.

Changing the flipper angle makes it easier to trap the ball but you can still make all of the shots.
All it really does is alter the game to play differently than intended from the designer.
The classic game has the flippers set centered.
However, Its your game and you should set them however you want. Its one of the benefits of owning the game.

On my WOZ I have the flippers set 3/64" up from factory to allow for better ramp shots from the right flipper.
Its part of the dialling in process as well as setting the game pitch. Each game plays slightly different.

#786 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Only ball launch issue here is very occasionally need 2 or 3 tries to kick the ball from the trough into the shooter lane. Beyond that, all balls reach the pops or left orbit cleanly.

Looking into the exit hole bend the silver tab out about 1/16" to get a little more clearance fr the ball.
Its most likely squeezing the ball as it tries to pass thru into the shooter lane.
I just applied a crescent wrench to it, to give it a little more opening.

#787 2 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

I am about to order and choose a color for my LE. I would appreciate hearing from those of you who chose black. Some pictures I have seen look like it is more of a matte finish vs. glossy. Yes or no? Are you happy with your choice? Any pics posted here would be appreciated.

I chose the black. The semi-gloss is really good at hiding finger prints. Super glossy would look smudgy all the time.
I think it matches the over-all look and visual lines of the game better.

#788 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Speaking of the lockdown bar I can't get my arm to lock it In Like it should, i gave up. I still can't get my SOL adjusted right, on the kickouts 50% of the time it goes right down the middle.

Adjusting the SOL scoop mech isnt too hard:
Turn the power all the way to the max. It should hit high up on the left flipper.
See if it changes throughout the day as power from the wall affects this greatly.
You can also elongate the mounting holes slightly in the mech sideways by side cutting with a drill bit.
This will allow you to turn and adjust the mech as needed.
It only needs a tiny adjustment in most cases, 1/16" is a lot.
Sometimes you can just loosen the mounting screws, twist it firmly and re-tighten the screws while holding pressure on it.

Added over 3 years ago: Sorry, no power adjustment on SOL coil yet.

#805 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Which power setting? What coil is it under to adjust?


#807 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Okay so it was still STDM randomly so I tried to make a adjustment from underneath. After loosening the screws it just appears that when it was screwed in it is just aligned poorly. The right fix would be to unscrew it and repositionand screw back in but that's not a option. So now I'm at -1 coil strength and it limps over to the Right Flipper, I guess better then draining.

how does it do at full srength?
Is the mech hitting the wood of the playfield twisted all the way to the left?
How does it play plugged into a different outlet?
On my game it will sdtm if I have low power on my street.

#818 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So I ended up playing one last game before calling it a night, and ended up lighting RTU, and just couldn't hit the SOL to claim it!
I guess that's pinball! Last night though, the game was being a serious ball breaker!
Also, quick question for you guys... I've changed my flippers bit so the rubber on the flipper sit on the toothpick hole, rather than the flipper itself. Now that it's raised a bit, I feel I can hot Martians better on the sides, however orbit shots are tougher. Any thoughts?
And checking bookkeeping, my right drains are nearly double the left. Game is completely level, so wondering if the game is more prone to right drains or is it me?

I have the flippers at the factory angle, it seems to play properly all around.
I have the slings set at min for now, it plays like a classic one I have played before.

The sling leaf switches were a little too closely adjusted from the factory and I was getting a lot of machine gunning and random firing. So I opened the gap on all 4 switches a little and it fixed that.
This also makes the game a little more controllable. The slings wont fire unless you hit them.
The ball rolling along the rubber to the flippers for a catch wont trigger them for now at least.

I wish there was a slightly higher sling power adjustment as it seems a tiny bit low on min.
Im leaving my game pitch at 6.9 (average) and the flippers are at +2 on my game.

For now it seems to play properly. I may raise the pitch to 7.1 later as it will side drain a little less at that pitch but I like the way my game plays right now.

#820 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Were the flipper bats aligned with the holes as a factory settings, or we're the a little lower? Can't recall.
Also, are you measuring 6.9 from roughly where the bubble level is? I get about 6.7 there, and 6.5 just above the slings.

I use a small drill bit (or you can use an allen wrench) in the wooden hole that fits cleanly with the flippers plastic resting on the tool. I also have a few of the metal pins/adjustment tools that used to come with the games in the old days for this.

On playfield pitch:
I measure in 3 places on the playfield and just get an average between the 3 measurements.
Often the pitch is higher at the top than at the bottom, but it can also be the opposite. Gameplay seems to not be affected either way.

Im using a digital torpedo level but the cell phone apps can also be very good.

#826 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Yeah, stupid auto correct!
What sort of gauge is used to align the flippers?

a small drill bit for the hole in the playfield and use the plastic gauge that the game came with to set the height of the flipper bat off the bushing under it.

#847 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Ok so this is how off to the right it is, needs to move to the left but only possible way is to redrill the holes. I've tried to shim it and adjust the coil strength but it may work for 1 ball in play then randomly drain. When it's a multiball or the Martians are vibrating it seems that it lacks the power to get it to the flipper. I've had 2 balls on a multiball STDM constantly when this occurs. Not sure what fix to try next, should I put a ticket in? You can see the gap on the left and the angle is pretty much aimed STDM.

Remove the mech, sidecut the mounting holes with a drill bit that matches the hole size or slightly smaller, twist to the left upon re-installation.
Also it could be a slightly crooked weldment (it happens). Contact CGC for a replacement.

While waiting for the new part do as above.

#855 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Thanks, I think it did make sense to submit it just to be safe. Thanks for all your help!!

The SOL scoop is pretty easy to remove. CGC did an awsome job of modularising the game.

Im afraid replacing the assembly wont fix it. Unless you get them to dremmel out the upper holes for you.

The screws that would affect the angle of the scoop were applied via pre-dimpled locations.
The assemblers just applied them with a screw gun as needed.

With the screws in place now there is only one option. Widen the 2 upper holes in the mech about 1/16" to the right and twist it to the left when re-installing it. Use a dremmel (faster) or sidecut with a drill bit (slower). The lower machine screw holes have enough play that they probably dont need adjusting.

No solder needed, 2 machine screws, 2 wood screws, 2 connectors.
The scoop removes in 3 mins. 2 mins to reinstall.

Take the balls out first to be safe.

#876 2 years ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I can't imaging getting a score like that (especially now that we have that flipper delay). I would be tickled to get a 4rth of that score.

I guess Im one of the many that cant feel any delay on the flippers.
My scores are similar to any AFM I have ever played, but again Im not a top tier competitor, just a good player.

2 weeks later
#935 2 years ago

How do I get a printed brochure for AFMr?
I know I can download it but I dont have a color printer any more since I went to all laser.
It would have been cool to get one with my LE.

#937 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Bring the file to Staples to print in color.

Good Idea!
Maybe I can get them to send me one....

2 weeks later
#1073 2 years ago

Could you make one with the correct AFM martian instead of one from the mars attacks movie?

#1090 2 years ago
Quoted from rolandthoms:

The actual button stays down while the flipper stays up

Its got to be binding somehow.
Take it all apert and inspect it. Something might be broken inside the button.

2 weeks later
#1245 2 years ago

I was having the issue when you destroy a ship the ball wouldnt register or give you lock instead.
The switch needed to be adjusted so that it would be more sensitive, as other have said.

I simply rotated the switch counter clockwise while listening to the click and actuating the switch arm from under the playfield.

Its rock solid now.


1 week later
#1344 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Question: I am getting a rattle from the bass when the volume is cranked up, the glass is rattling where it meets the backbox.....is something loose? If I press down on the rubber on the glass up there it gets substantially quieter.

Anti-rattle tape or a strip if thin cardboard in the slot seems to work.

#1369 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Seems like a lot of my shots that enter the left orbit rattle immediately and drop back down, I'd imagine any that enter should go smoothly, is the shot just tougher to line up than I remember or is anyone else experiencing that?

It can be a tight shot.
Adjust the flipper power down a bit. Im at -2 right now and can repeat the left or right loop when its open several times.
Its incredibly fast after the third loop!

1 week later
#1526 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Im having issues just unboxed LE #597. My saucer destory scoop doesn't register sometimes when you go to destroy a saucer and itll register as a lock instead. Running V 1.0.0

Lift the playfield all the way. Be cautious if you have mirrorblades installed. Just lift it straight on and pull of forward a little so that it hits its stops.
Rotate the switch a little to raise the wire actuator and make it more sensitive. Its on a little bracket tab attached the the subway behind/below the drop target.
You dont have to remove anything and its easy to reach.
You dont even have to loosen the 2/56 screws it will gently turn by hand.
You can actuate it by hand and listen for an audible click to tell if its right.
This will fix it perfectly.

#1528 2 years ago

Thank you so much CGC !

AFMrLE is too much fun.

Its incredibly fast and brutal. I had it go into ball search on a ball that forever wouldnt do anything but hit the black ramp bumpers and fall back to a cradled position without hitting even the slings before I drained, I couldnt even hit a switch...

The next game I attacked Mars and finished at 17 billion.

Im humbled and fascinated by this amazing and beautiful game.

I have to play it over and over again. Im so close to RTU I can taste it.

People played it non-stop for hours over thanksgiving, 4 player games were a breeze as the ball times were fairly short.
So many people were waiting to play it I couldnt get a game in until they all left.

Its the only game Im playing now, all the other ones will have to wait. (I must Rule the Universe!)
Im addicted to AFMr...

#1541 2 years ago
Quoted from brittlewater:

I have had my AFMr LE for a week. My left flipper has stopped working. It is stuck in the up position. How do I troubleshoot this? This is my first pinball machine and I am not familiar with working on them.

Does the flipper go back down if the power is off?
Raise the playfield with the power off and see if its mechanical or electrical.
Check to see if anything is binding or loose on or in the flipper mech.
Sometimes its just a coil stop or coil that became loose and can just be reinstalled or reassembled.

post some pics if you can

#1543 2 years ago

I forgot about removing the balls! AFMr doesnt have a ball lock for raising the PF. JJP has us spoiled.
Thanks Lloyd.

#1547 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Yep, had this feature on RFM as well...think this was a pinball 2000 innovation. Sad that other manufacturers haven't adopted this simple idea.

It is such a simple weighted door flap.
I wonder if it can be retrofitted in games that dont have it.

#1549 2 years ago
Quoted from brittlewater:

I fixed it. The bracket that holds the solenoid in place come off. It must not have been tightened properly and came loose during shipment / game play. I reinstalled it and the flipper is working fine now. Glad it was a quick fix. My plans for today involve playing pinball all day so the broke flipper was going to be an issue. I am attaching some pictures in case anyone else has this issue. Thanks for the help.

Yay ! Im glad you fixed it.
The coil stops can come loose from gameplay they take a terrible beating.
In your case they probably forgot to put a little loctite on them at the factory.
Maybe apply a little blue loctite to the threads if it comes loose again.

Also take a look around the game and check to see if anything else needs tightening.
This is good for new games as well as older ones.

#1552 2 years ago

Im playing with the flipper settings on my AFMr.
I have had them down to -8 and up to +2.

With the lower settings the game is more predictable and has plenty of power but lacks that feel of battle!
Im back up to default or -2.
The balls can fly off the wireforms on default, but the intensity of the game is improved a lot.
Im going to raise the pitch a little and keep the flippers at a high setting for now.

I really like the intense battle feel of the game at the higher rate in spite of a few airballs.

#1754 2 years ago
Quoted from thunderking50:

Is there a feature setting for the Saker ?
I can not find it

Its in the CGC menu

3 weeks later
#2473 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I think we all have had some version of this issue.

I picked up an early version out of the first batch and it pretty much works flawlessly out of the box.
The skill shot works perfectly and never fails to go around the orbit.

I did have to widen the gap out of the ball trough (bent the metal tab 20 second repair).
I also had the outlane paint cracking/checking and CGC immediately sent me new plastics for this.
My mantis style protector for the SOL was very low, they sent me a better formed one, but I think Ill install a cliffy there instead if I get too much wear. I bought the whole set of Cliffys but havent had to install them yet.

Other than that I have just used the adjustment menu to control the game to my liking.
I have the flippers set at default.
I adjusted the right pop bumper setting.
I lowered the strobe light to keep from getting a seizure...
I turned the switch behind the drop target to get it to register near 100%

I might adjust the ball scoop a tiny bit to get it more onto the left flipper next.

The minor adjustments that are needed to get the game working properly are one of the fun parts of owning a game!
If I wanted a piece of art I would buy a picture of the game and hang it on the wall.

My advice is to play it hard!
Bust it up.
Fix it.
Play it harder!!

#2520 2 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

Been playing around with them and can’t quite see what they are doing. Gone all the way from fairly tight to very loose. This is the kind of sh!T I didn’t expect to have to deal with. Moral of the story, buy local next time and have them set it up.

Its not too bad of an adjustment.
Make is so that the lockdown bar installs easily.
Then turn each screw 1/2 turn and check the tightness of the bar.
Do this a few times until you are happy with the tightness.

I prefer the have the lockdown bar fairly tight so that I have to lean or press very firmly on it for the inside lock handle to engage.

3 weeks later
#3016 2 years ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

Anyone know if the Australian delivered AFMR-LE’s are meant to have coin mechs included ?
I have zippity doo da in that spot, whereas I’m reading the folks in the US had them included.
Doesn’t detract from having a great game, but if it should have one, I want it

The LE's are supposed to come with coin mechs installed.

1 week later
#3441 2 years ago

Oddly I dont care about chipping on my playfields, maybe Im in the minority? I think that cliffy's are super good to cover wear if it shows up. I buy new in box to enjoy years of use without the cliffy's or additional mylars applied, they do affect game play.
I can add mylars as needed over worn areas to increase the playfield life before replacement but thats years down the road.

1. Pouring a bucket of heavy hard steel ball bearings on nicely painted and clearcoated plywood is probably not recommended.

2. I realize that pinball machines are very much like sports equipment, if you play hard it will break and have to be replaced.

3. I play hard. My wife has over 1500 hours of play on my WOZ alone (its a heavy game and she gets a lot of tilt warnings).

4. I buy pinball machines to play, not as art or an investment. Again, am I in the minority or the majority?

5. The years of enjoyment I get from my collection far outweigh the cost compared to other activities. A cruise is $8000 and is over in a couple weeks. $1000 a day to go to Hawaii the list goes on and on....

JMHO Let the debate continue!

#3444 2 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

Changing the conversation for a second: I am a 6 day old owner; beautiful game but darn difficult! I walk over and play STLE with its smooth flow just to get a break!
I have my game at 7.4 and flippers at -3 and Titan flipper rubber. Everything else at default. My games are normally under 1 billion but had a 3.5 bill and total annihilation twice..... very sucky, I know. I brick a lot of shots and seems like “cheap drains” quite often.
I’m thinking of expanding the ball save time and playing with the outline posts. What does it mean to make the outlines easier? Am I “ raising the posts “ and if so, am I literally screwing them out of the playfield a touch? Aside from more practice, any suggestions that has mercy on me until I get a better hang of the game would be appreciated.

AFM is a fast brutal game by design. Its fun and challenging.
It looks deceptively simple but its not.
My scores range from 300 mil to 20 billion.
Average ball time is 70 seconds.

I have a Hobbit for long ball times average game 20 to 40 minutes.

My AFMRle is for when I want a fast brutal game with tons of live catches and nudging.
I surprised that the black post rubbers haven't split off for how many times they get hit instead of the ramp entrances on any given game.

#3446 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

^This. I am thinking of aiming for the posts themselves. Maybe I'd hit more ramp entrances this way?

Im absolutely going to try this!

#3495 2 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

It is planking as they are starting to come apart and open. I think it is the dry climate as all the ones I can see in Colorado are doing it. Had two friends sell theirs cause of it. We were assuming at first all are doing it everywhere but now I think a manufacturing issue on the dryness of wood and time between clear coats. Playing has no factor on it and will ge worse just sitting.

Open up a ticket and request a replacement.
Its obviously a bad/poorly prepped blank with wrong colors on it. It probably should have been rejected as a blank before it was printed. The clearcoat should protect the surface from any indoor climate variations. Not all plywood is perfect, its an organic product.

It will take some time to get a swap-out but they will do it. CGC is a good company to deal with.

Play the hell out of the game and really enjoy it in the mean time.

#3550 2 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

i just ordered a LE
i am happy with my MMRLE
but sounds like a lot of quality problems on AFM LE ?!?!?

Some have adjustments to be made but not all.

#3574 2 years ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

Need some help. This game has given me nothing but problems first of all since I’ve had it. Anybody know how to fix my problem. Sometimes when I hit the saucer hole it gives me a locked ball instead of destroying saucer. Tried stuff can’t get it to fix. So damn frustrating. Second I set my extra ball reward to 2 billion and it seems to always rest to either 1.7 billion or 1.5 billion extra ball on its own. Driving me mad. Sorry just so fed up with this machine already. On a better note I pick up my Freddy Nightmare on Elm Street Pinball Saturday

Raise the playfield physically turn the switch body (behind the drop target assembly) a little so that the wire arm is a little higher.
Make sure it still clicks when you actuate it, you can hear it if its quiet in the room.
If the switch seems loose, tighten the tiny screws on the side a little until it firms up, but make sure the switch arm is as high as it will go and still click properly.

Generally you dont need any tools for this adjustment.

#3575 2 years ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

Sorry just so fed up with this machine already.

Adjustments are a part of the hobby.
All pinball machines need to be tweaked and adjusted once they are setup.
See if a fellow pinsider is near you to help work out your settings. Im sure they will be happy to help out.
They generally work for beer or food.

#3643 2 years ago

The black is probably a knot in one of the plys.
I have see that on several B/W playfields it usually black or very dark wood.
Some of the restorers just paint over it and airbrush grain in that area.
It wont affect game play as its harder than the regular wood, but its is unsightly.
The clear might not adhere to it properly due to its hardness so I would put mylar over it or give that area a special treatment.
But if the game is a collectors edition I would at least get a replacement playfield to make the game more collectible.

The blank should have been rejected during a visual inspection or used for a classic version of a game and not a collectors version where appearance is more important.

The same as any of the planking playfields.

#3933 2 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Glad to hear. Interesting no one is posting that they have had zero issues. I have more new in the box games with zero adjustments and problems than I have had games with issues. Playing perfect right out of the box is high quality control.

I have had zero issues after 500 games.
The game plays as it should and I have no complaints.

#3940 2 years ago

Im reading this thread and seeing that a few people have some cosmetic issues on their games.
They are very vocal and are gaining sympathy from pinsiders in general.

I dont think that the cosmetic issues I have read, affect gameplay at all.

From a players perspective, only issues that affect gameplay are valid. It is a game after all.

Color variations on playfields are as old as pinball itself and can be sorted out in time if need be.

Chipping of clearcoat is to be expected and can be controlled fairly easily by the end user if they want.
Apply full sheet mylar or a makrolon full protector if you want. Its the end users choice as much as whether you wax your car or not.

example: My $12K Seedoo has scratches all over it from only 5 uses. My $200 baseball bat has scratches after only one game etc.

This does not mean that CGC is making an inferior product at all.

Its simpy pinball.
Anything that affects gameplay they immediately respond to, as they should.

Damning a game manufacturer for a relatively small percentage of defects is unfair and misleading.
How they respond to individual cases, on an individual basis, has not proven to be what the majority can expect at all.
All pinball machines have had quirks and poorly engineered parts that had to be remade or re-envisioned down the road.

The aftermarket is filled with these solutions.

JMHO... please go back to beating up CGC for no reason now

I'm a player not an art collector.

4 weeks later
#4748 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I suspect they don't have the rights to the Bally name.
Now on the SE and LE, since it's on the LCD, I suspect it's in the original software, and able to be used.
LTG : )

I agree.

The way I see it is, the only way you would get a logo'd panel would be if it was a licensed exact replacement part for an original game.
Any changes would be aftermarket and not be able to be logo'd
Any changed parts would have to be given or sold to bally or williams and then manufacturing rights would have to be purchased to use their logo.

The right to display the logo on the screen would be contained within the right to use their software.

#4749 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I know on MMR there is no speaker bar logo since Williams didn't allow their logo be put on the remake machines; this is clearly not the case for the Bally logo, and even though I don't own a classic machine, I question the why there is no Bally logo on the classic machine, as there is clearly room for it.

You can actually get or make a stick on logo for that area as long as you dont sell it[ it would be considered fan art, if you need it.
Or get an original speaker panel and possibly modify it to fit.

#4762 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Still seems odd they don’t use it on the Classic Edition DMD surround panel and is missing from the translite of any model.

I think it amounts to a licensing issue:

OEM replacement parts are one thing.

Complete manufactured games are another.

The games were not made at the Williams/Bally facility or by Williams/Bally.

Its a complicated issue when it comes to license and branding especially when there are multiple parties involved.

One interesting note: The AFMr is essentially being made by the same company as the originals.

In my mind these are not Re-makes but really a continuation of the original with normal production updates.

They could have just continued the serial numbers from where they left off.

#4791 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

If anyone is looking to leave the club im interested in purchasing an LE. Thought id ask before i purchase a new( if available). Also how would i find out if a specific number is still available. Im looking for #999

What's a popular number you'd have to contact the owner and buy it from him when he's ready to sell.

#4808 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know what flipper strength you guys have settled on since the PIC 2.0 update.
Also, put the game at 6.5 (measured at flippers) with the outlane posts in the middle of each slot, and I can barely keep the ball alive. That sound about right for this game?


#4811 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Seems to be almost a tossup between -3 and -4, but I ended up at -3.

Im at default.
I hit so many weak shots to the ramps, barely under my control, that I need all the help I can get.

Im super pleased that an errant sling shot can deflect and go up to the lock!

Its true that at -3 the game is way more controllable, but one would have to be in control for that to be a factor (mostly I am not at this point) in the first place.

Im not getting anything off the rails now with pic 2.0, so it suits my lack of expertise well enough at default.

#4812 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I know some people say that the measurement is an average of readings from top to bottom, but that never made sense to me since it varies so greatly from pf to pf.


I always try to measure upper, middle and lowest playable points.
Then take an average.

I also try to determine if one of the outlanes favors the other and will change the horizontal level accordingly.
Ball inertia in some games has to be accounted for.
The audits are helpful on this.

If the game is floaty I adjust the rear legs half a turn or so until the floatyness goes away.

After playing 50 or so games if it plays good, I leave it.

Some games are way more sensitive to leveling (IJ and TH come to mind, lots of others).

AFM is pretty good at a lot of different playfield pitches depending on how fast you want it to play.

#4819 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

The most brutal one on the machine here is missing the lock ramp and having the ball roll back out of the lane next to the center targets and right out the right outlane.

I love that!
No reward for failure soldier...!

#4843 2 years ago
Quoted from Nickrc3:

My#873 LE was delivered last Sunday by Curly from Little Shop of Games. Outstanding distributor, great customer support. Won't hesitate to purchase my second pinball from him.
Machine plays fantastic. Lights, graphics and sounds are mesmerizing, however, I'm getting murdered by this game! It's a serious drain monster, especially the two outlanes. The ball constantly swings over into these two lanes. No amount of nudging can change the trajectory. Other drains from Stroke of Luck VUK or SDTM are manageable.
Having played GB many times, I really feel AFMr is a hell-of-a-lot more challenging in terms of ball-time longevity.
Since last Sunday, I registered 289 games and cannot obtain a score higher than 7.2B.
Spending my childhood and adolescent summer years (60's-70's) at the various pinball arcades in Seaside Heights NJ, I've always considered myself a better than average player, but man, this pin is frustrating.
Achieving annihilation, super skill shots, Martian multi-ball, etc. is not terribly difficult, and consistently obtained, but getting past four countries has not been achieved. The sad part is I set the game up for 5 balls. How these Guy's are getting mega-high scores and Attack Mars mode on 3 ball is beyond me.
Playfield level is set at 6.8 degrees, horizontal level is 0, flipper strength set to default (minimal airballs). Tilt is disabled.
I did notice the outposts are off-center (see pic) favoring the outlanes, but I'm not about to take a Dremel to enlarge the hole in order to shift position. I also re-centered both slingshots.
So, do I basically suck, or just need more patience to advance in the gameplay? Any suggestions or tips on game play is much appreciated.
Thanks Guys.

Welcome to AFM!
War is Hell.
Return to battle soldier...

#4856 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is it normal for the ball to make it halfway up the lock ramp, to roll back down and go directly into the right outlane?

War is Hell.
Return to battle soldier...

#4866 2 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

the blades by TiltGraphics, etc look cooler than the mirrors IMHO.

I think I prefer the mirrors. It looks like a larger landscape that it really is and bounces more light into the game.

#4870 2 years ago
Quoted from PDX_Pinball:

I know this is heresy to some people but here's what I did:
1. Move outlane guides all the way down
2. Install 5 ball
3. Change the extra ball for destroying cities back to 2 (it goes to 3 when you install 5 ball)
4. Change the extra ball for SOL down to 4
5. Change the extra ball during Strobe Multiball down to 8 (I think that's the lowest)
6. Crank all the timers up to max (ball save, martian attack, etc...). Anything that times out, move it to max
7. Drill a hole in the pf and install a post between the flippers (ok, that was a joke)
This makes the game more fun for me as it allows me to get close to ruling the universe. I got to RTU the other night for the first time ever although I didn't get the 5 billion needed to RTU. Don't be embarrassed about doing this. It's your $8000 and you can do whatever you want with the game. Make it fun.
I'm getting better at this game and will start dialing all this back over time. Someday I hope to be back to 3 ball default settings and be able to light RTU.

Im not ready to do anything that extreme but I do like what your thinking and see how you got there

But I'll admit that I have started a lot of 4 player games just to get a rhythm going. It seems to help me get 1 or 2 good games out of the 4.

#4876 2 years ago
Quoted from Newbie979:

Quick question guys on my AFM I notice when I play and I hit the left sling it sometimes makes it kick like 2 or three times. It’s not every time I hit bit but it’s alit during a game. Annoying as shit. Any ideas how I can do a quick fix on this problem? Also have rattling on my glass. Tape? Thanks in advance

People have applied electrical tape wrapped along the edges.

Seems to work good there's a product called anti rattle tape which is essentially the same thing.

Also one could turn down the Shaker motor a little bit until it stops rattling the glass.

#4907 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Question all. May have line in on a HUO black trim LE. Any opinions on a fair price? I know the guy so neither of us are trying to make bank off each other, just looking at fair market prices. Also, are there any glaring issues these remakes have that I need to look out for? Will buying this void the extended LE warranty?

Get it for the best price you can.
It's an amazing game!
You cant go wrong with black.
It's what I chose and the game isn't leaving soon at all.

A lot of people paid $9000 with tax and shipping.

#4916 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys please check out my first Pinball machine review and give comments!
» YouTube video

Nice vid!
But they are Martians!!! (not so much UFO's or aliens... lol)
They want our Women! (and alot of other stuff too It seems...)

They all must die! (or die trying...)

Return to battle soldier...

#4919 2 years ago
Quoted from Ccondo:

Would anyone who has purchased an AFMr Special be willing to PM me and share what they paid? When talking to my distributer, I can decent discounts on Stern Pro machines but they seem unable (or unwilling) to budge at all on any of the Chicago Gaming remakes...

They are most likely locked into a price agreement with cgc.

#4936 2 years ago

I love mine in the black trim.
To me it seems to outline the artwork and match the lines of the game better.
But I might not be as much of an "outside the box" kinda guy. (im also color blind...) lol

#4941 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Well, correct that!
» YouTube video

I have those glasses!
Sadly they only work outside, but they do make things look different by about 40%. (which is a lot to me)
There is also a $40 pair of glasses I bought that does a fair job too, just not quite as good, but still an improvement.

So for $400 I can see colors better in bright daylight (its a good thing really)!

#4951 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey Guys im gonna be ordering a new Afmr in a day or so. What are some things(Add-ons, Cliffies etc)that i should purchase for the game. Does a nib come with leg protectors?

you dont need much.
maybe cliffys.
comes with metal leg protectors.

get the SE or the LE the big screen is nice.

#4962 2 years ago
Quoted from Riffbear:

Looks magnificent!!
Now that I have MMR and AFMR LE I don't think I need anymore games right!?

Maybe a Houdini!

#4969 2 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

Attack LE owners ?? Can the new screen be changed to no dots ?
Or soothing like a color dmd ???

I like the dots. I really like the big wide hi-res screen it seems perfect for the game.
The clean dot free look wouldnt look right on the game to me.

However I did choose the smooth look for the color DMD on my ToM, it seemed to match better.

#4976 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

What flipper rubbers do you guys use? Mine had titans in it and I couldn’t catch the damn ball. I put black rubbers on it and it’s still almost impossible to catch the damn ball without it just rolling off.
Also, where is the SoL supposed to shoot the ball to? Mid left flipper I assume ? My machine is level and it hits the metal at the top of the flipper making dead flips pretty risky at best.

I'm using translucent red super bands right now.

Scoop can be twisted slightly if you loosen the screws holding it in to adjust it a little bit.

I have it set to pretty consistently hit the upper third of the left flipper.

Mine used to go straight down the middle a lot until I adjusted it.

I also played with the coil settings a little bit.

#4977 2 years ago

Just finished an epic game (for me).

Made it to RTU for the first time!

25 billion points.

It took me a year to do it.
It was well worth the wait.

Amazing experience!

Thank you CGC for making this amazing game available to us.

#5013 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys what flipper strength are you playing on? I can't seem to find a setting that makes it seem to shoot well. I'm updated and it seems like the shots are just off, I'm still having that stdm when ejecting from the sol ( need to send a support ticket again ) on any strength setting.

After a lot of testing and adjusting my flippers are on default setting.
I had to side drill out the holes on the scoop 3/32" each to get it in the correct position to fire consistently on to the left flipper.

I had to twist it firmly so that it's tight against the sides while tightening the screws.

The whole adjustment took 10 mins.

It's well worth it.

My pitch is at 6.6 degrees.

The game plays perfectly.

Making the shots takes practice.

It's a feeling of shooting a little late compared to other games due to the slight downward angle of the flippers.

I wouldn't adjust the flippers up as it will be harder to hit the side Martian targets.

#5015 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

THANKS for the response in such detail. My MMR played perfectly out of the box and I guess that's pinball if your not tweaking something. Ill try the washer trick first since its the least invasive.

Pinball machines are "Hand Made".
When they are assembled on the line, tiny variations occur in spite of the use of jigs and alignment tools.

Kickout scoops are one of these items that are impossible to get exactly right off the line.

Only through numerous plays does one find out what needs adjustment once the game is settling in on a location.

Since the scoops are set squarely with screws and a drill gun on the line, the installer has only a limited view of how it functions "In-Play".

I havent "Not" had to adjust one in any game I have come across.

Drop target assemblies and stand-up targets can also be adjusted if they are not exactly straight and deflect the ball in an undesired angle.

I see this alot in location games. There will be a stand-up or another target that continually bounces to a "cheap drain" instead of going to the tip of a flipper.

Side drilling the holes on the mounting brackets is the acceptable way of correcting misaligned screws.
There is no easy way to move the screws once they are installed, there is just no room.

#5028 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Well holes are side drilled but to the point of close to no metal left and its still not centered. Its not draining constantly, problem is it was drilled over to the far right side leaving a huge gap on the left, ball is horribly angled. I side drilled the holes but it really needs to be moved and drilled properly into the playfield which will not work at this point. I may still try a washer if I need to but its currently playable.

Yes, It should be be crooked in the square slot in the playfield. This is just fine.
It doesnt have to be centered unless you want it to be, you cant see it anyway in the game.
With these adjustments and adjusted coil settings you should be fine.
I had mine hitting the sling at one time during my adjustments so I know that there is plenty of adjustment available.

#5030 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Mine barely hits the flipper let alone a sling, feels like its underpowered coming out of mine .

Max out the pop coil setting?

#5031 2 years ago

I'm getting a ball hang in the subway between the mothership and the lock switch.

Sharp nudges release it.

The ball can move pretty slow after dropping in the subway on a weak hit.

It's similar to the condition that exists in a worn thing box in the subway on TAF once in awhile.

Either I need more angle in the subway or the switch wires are too high after adjusting for better mothership hits?

Anyone else see this?


#5032 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm getting a ball hang in the subway between the mothership and the lock switch.
Sharp nudges release it.
The ball can move pretty slow after dropping in the subway on a weak hit.
It's similar to the condition that exists in a worn thing box in the subway on TAF once in awhile.
Either I need more angle in the subway or the switch wires are too high after adjusting for better mothership hits?
Anyone else see this?

I think I'm going to try lowering the mothership subway switch 1mm at a time to see if it fixes it.

Or maybe bend the actuator wire down I little?

#5035 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Ya, Max just gets it to the left flipper.-1 stdm,-2 stdm or tip of right flipper.

You might have slightly low power in the wall AC.
If it can go to a raised left flipper it should be ok and controllable.
If it's too powerful the ball will travel up the inlane and drain out the left side.

#5037 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Make sure things are assembled right down there, so the ball rolls downhill easily. Make sure nothing is stuck in there that shouldn't be there. Then check if it's hanging on the switch arm. Adjust that past the switch body so you don't change the flat part pushing the knob into the switch body.
LTG : )

Will do, thanks Lloyd!

#5043 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

Hey guys - recorded some game play action tonight with my son. Figured I'd share here!
» YouTube video

Great video!
You have a credit on the screen.
A switch needs to be actuated or needs adjusting.

Your switch behind the drop target needs to be tightened and adjusted so that it's a little more sensitive and works 100% when you hit the mothership hole.

Twist it a little higher in the subway.

#5052 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

Thank you Lloyd. I'll look at it and get it done


I adjusted the subway switch 2mm lower.

This puts less pressure on the spring inside it and it's easier for the ball to roll over it.

So far in test it's now 100%

I had it adjusted "hair-trigger"
But that compressed the actuator a bit and made the switch spring too stiff or tight. The ball could rest on it once in awhile a have to be nudged free.

#5056 2 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

The left and right drains are just brutal for me. I don’t want to make the game easy...I want to get better, I am really good at digging the ball out of the center but the sides are killing me...tournament settings anyone?

Narrow the outlanes to the minimum.
This is not a hack or a "cheat"
This is an operator option to make the game as fun as possible to make more money.
Open the sling leaf switches slightly so they are less sensitive. You can tighten the slings and widen the outlanes as you get better at the game.
You can adjust pitch of the game higher or lower than the 6.5 recommended.

Most of the operators have the games set for a particular ball time. This is why it lists it in the audits.
They generally make the game easy to play when they first get it and record the ball times.
If they are too long they adjust the game incrementally harder as the players get more proficient.

Pinball is about fun. And fun for the money.
If the game ends too quickly its not worth the money.

If the game is to easy you will get tired of it quickly and stop playing it.

I set my games up to what I consider "just right" not brutally hard but also not easy either.
Pinball should be challenging but still alot of fun.

#5058 2 years ago
Quoted from GGBGROUP:

Just joined the club! Question. Does the replacement PIC chip reset game count and other audits?


#5078 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey guys how does pitch work? I'm trying to make my game a bit easier and reduce all the drains down the middle. This is currently what my front and back legs look like. Does the bubble at the bottom means its easier or harder. Also im having a problem with the upkick. Sometimes if a ball slams into the lock or through the ship hole. When it goes to kick the ball up it doesnt come out. It usually comes out the second time. Only once it took 3 times to kick the ball out. Is that normal or does something need to be adjusted.

Get an inclinometer or a digital level, they are not expensive.
Set the playfield pitch to 6.5 degrees,

In general the front leg adjusters will be set, screwed all the way in.
The rear legs generally screwed out about an inch and a half or more.

Play the game and measure the pitch with a digital level, its the best.
You can also download and install a level app for your phone however they can vary greatly on accuracy depending on the one you get.

After playing a few games adjust the rear legs up or down a little but stay around 6.4 tp 6.8 degrees with the level.
Find the exact right pitch for you depending on how the game plays.

1 week later
#5118 2 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

So glad I read this thread lol. I had mine set to 7.5 and was getting really frustrated at not being able to capture the ball or progress. Set the game to 6.8 and got to mars the next game lol.

I played my game a lot at 6.5 degrees with slightly weakened flippers, it played strangely floaty at times.
Setting the pitch to 6.7 and setting the flippers to default with PIC 2.0, my game plays perfectly and I finally got to RTU.
Im using superbands on the flippers as they catch the ball really well.
I just bought some perfect play flipper rubbers from pinball life, Ill see how they do in comparison.

Im also using superbands on my Hobbit.

#5132 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

How is it enabled? Is it anything physical or just software?

The new wide screens are 4x higher definition than the old DMD's, so new artwork had to be developed.

The classic versions can get color but I dont know if they have the higher definition available in the new wide screens.

Its a lot of work to re-paint every single frame of an animation and chose colors that make sense and look good.

The animations have to be stored on a ROM and traded out/bypased for color vs orange DMD style.

#5134 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Ok. Classic doesn't have larger DMD but I thought it can still get the color treatment? Anyone confirm and if so how do you update?

You can get color, contact CGC for the upgrade.
It was reported that some of the early classics had color in them from the factory.

#5142 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I have the game. Had one error but I cleared it. Stunning game works great. I have the standard with one color but when it boots it looks full color and hd. I’m assuming the hd color does more than just colorize from the looks of the boot up screen. Looks very nice. Is it safe to assume the HD option on standard is the same as LE but just smaller screen?
Also where is the option to make the strobe and lights on saucer brighter?
Finally to get the Hs option I need to call the manufacturer?

Order the upgrade chip?

#5176 2 years ago

I posted this on the AFMr tech thread also:

I have an interesting behavior:

During sling activity the lock diverter or something near it will chudder.
Not all the time, but once or twice in every game.

Its hard to track down as it works perfectly.
It only does this during a game and most noticeably when there is a lot of sling action.

Pounding on the playfield doesnt reproduce this problem.

Anyone else seen this either from AFMr or regular AFM?

#5178 2 years ago

Is there ever going to be a software update for the blink rate of the playfield inserts?
The game needs this. Its hard to determine what is left to hit for Total Annihilation as the binking inserts look solid it blinks so fast.

#5187 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey guys im still having trouble with the vertical upkeep. Poppers are on max and the game has been leveled numerous times. Last few games its taken 2-3 times to successfully kick the ball onto the ramp. Whats the next step i should take?

See if anything's loose under the Playfield tighten everything up. Make sure the coil moves freely and is not binding anywhere on anything.

#5197 2 years ago
Quoted from Hypercoaster:

CGC Menu, Adjust your Incandescent Emulation. I believe the game defaults to "slow". I found this to change the "blink rate". I believe this setting is intended to emulate the incandescent bulbs fading in and out slowly, instead of the instant on/off. Problem is that the fading in and out on the flashing insert can be so slow you don't notice that it is blinking.

I have the emulation set to slow but still the lights flicker instead of Flash so it's difficult during the game to determine what is needed to start total annihilation.

Should I increase the blank rate from slow to something else?

#5198 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

If you want pure emulation without having the inserts seem like they're not blinking, use these settings in the CGC menu.
Here's a video:
» YouTube video

You have the Playfield LED set at minimum that's interesting what does that do mine is set at Max or default I forget.

#5199 2 years ago

All of my lights flash properly in attract mode it's only in game that I'm concerned with and really all of them work exceptionally well except the ramp lights differentiating between what has been made and what has not been made.

#5201 2 years ago

Back to my diverter chattering or activating during slings or Flippers it might be a loose connection it might be the solenoid driver board I'll have to investigate it further but definitely it's the diverter moving while the slings are running something is amiss.

I guess it's possible that during the vibration of the slingshots in flippers running that diverter is losing power I'll have to investigate further.

#5223 2 years ago
Quoted from Saveleaningtower:

Thanks guys. I appreciate the multiple responses so quickly. I didn’t want to fry anything so Kashani and I thought it would be better to leave it alone till we were sure. I will probably opt to pull the plastic plug and just connect 4 to 4. Seems like either way doesn’t matter. I’m happy that I can finally see this topper in action. You guys rule!!

Cutting off the pin is the correct way to go, It protects against plugging it in backwards down the road.

#5229 2 years ago
Quoted from Ramjet:

I'm thinking about getting a SE, are there earlier build dates that have had problems. Should I be looking one after a certain date?

They are all the same.

#5233 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Back to my diverter chattering or activating during slings or Flippers it might be a loose connection it might be the solenoid driver board I'll have to investigate it further but definitely it's the diverter moving while the slings are running something is amiss.
I guess it's possible that during the vibration of the slingshots in flippers running that diverter is losing power I'll have to investigate further.

Diverter chattering caused by loose connection so its fixed YAY!

Now something odd.

Mothership while being blown up causes right or left sling to activate?
I have the slings gapped pretty wide (for slings...) at this point and it still does it once in awhile.

The pops dont activate and I have them set closer than a hairs width.

Sling does not activate by firmly slapping the playfield.

I went through and reseated all of the connectors under the PF.
I reseated all of the plugs on the PC boards....

Has anyone else seen this happen? Or, is it supposed to happen? It would be a cool effect to blow up the slings when you kill the ship.

Let me know.

1 week later
#5255 2 years ago

I bought these:


The cabinet fits so close to the Playfield since the cabinets a tiny bit narrow.

There's no room for felt on the edge of the Playfield it will rub.

In fact these protector blades barely fit but with these you will never scratch your mirror blades just be sure to use them each time you raise the Playfield.

They also fit a little bit tight do you have to manage them a little bit cuz they can hang up.

butt it's okay.

without them I would have ruined my mirror blades already.

#5262 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

My biggest problem with blades is they are a “mod” and mods should be fully reversible. Have you ever seen how it looks when you try to remove blades? Ruins the cabinet........WORST mod ever.

If they are factory installed like mine on AFMr le and houdini are they mods?

#5268 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

what PF angle are you guys running?

6.6 default flipper settings.
Slings set to min

Emulation medium
Led brightness -3

Added over 2 years ago:

Red Super Bands from Pinball Life

#5274 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Curious, can you elaborate a little? What adjustment are you talking about and what did it fix?

On AFM the flippers are set to droop a little so they are not inline with the lane guides.

One can if they wish, align the flippers with the lane guides and eliminate the slight droop.

Some people have a hard time adjusting to the angle of the flippers, so they straighten them.

This in turn could make the game play similar to other games. Maybe a little easier.

Personally I like the factory setup it makes for a challenging game and it's easier to hit the side Martian targets.

Leaving the flippers on the factory setting makes the game play like an AFM other than something else.

I like it that way.

But really, to each his own...

#5277 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I have played a lot of Bally AFM's. None had droopy flippers.
I also have no problems hitting the side martians at all.
But I do agree that if you like the droop style. Leave it.

I have too, but the factory/Game designer's setup is a slight droop.
I think during maintenance they get adjusted improperly over 23 years in a lot of cases.

#5279 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

It just makes all my shots be off enough to piss me off. lol

It's part of the charm.

#5280 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

But I feel relatively safe saying that Bally did not send games out the door with droopy flippers on purpose.

The adjustment holes in the playfield if used, make the flippers droop slightly:

20180615_222344 (resized).jpg20180615_222348 (resized).jpg
#5281 2 years ago

To setup flippers, place a toothpick or a suitable drill bit under the rubber and into the hole while tightening the nut on the pawl.

The hole is there to help with assembly and consistancy.

#5283 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I wouldn't do that. Stick with a tooth pick.
Anything goes wrong, and the drill bit breaks or pops out of the hole and drags across the playfield, you can damage the playfield in a very noticeable spot. Drill bits have sharp edges.
LTG : )

I have to agree that the small drill bit is very sharp and could scratch things up if not careful.

But I still have some of the metal adjustment pins from when they were included in the goodie bags way back when.

I use the drill bit or toothpick when I cant find my old adjustment pins.
I can be kinda lazy sometimes....

Maybe we could make up some out of bent piano wire, sell them for $8.99 and get RICH!

#5285 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

And they work fine for experienced pinball people. Usually.
Considering new pinball people read this. I tend to not advise risky things to the inexperienced. They are more likely to have problems.
LTG : )

I absolutely agree.

I can see a scenario that if a sharp pin wasnt pulled out it would wreak havoc and ruin the clear!

Words of wisdom. Thanks Lloyd!

#5299 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know what the adjustment pins look like.
I've always wondered if they have something in the factory that holds firm and makes flipper alignment quicker and more accurate.
With a toothpick, there is some movement of the toothpick in the hole, so getting it perfectly in line is very difficult. Very easy for it to lean up or down as you tighten.

Basically it's a bent wire tool much like an Allen wrench but round instead of hex.

A lot of guys actually just use an Allen wrench small enough to fit snugly in the hole.

I just use a worn out drill bit that's dull enough it doesn't cut the flipper rubber and goes deeply into the hole so it doesn't move.

I put the plain non sharpened end into the hole.

But be careful please as Lloyd advised.

#5302 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

They are sending out replacement ball guides now? The last I heard they just sent the PDF out with instructions on how to bend the existing guide to make it work...if they are indeed sending out new ones I'll contact them for one.

I just pressed down on the bend with a 5/16 nut driver, thru the wireform and flexed it lower a little, problem solved.

1 week later
#5343 2 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

It's good, get it. Hows that? Simple, if you like AFM, you will like AFMr, its a very nice remanufacturing of a classic DMD game.

Im not even sure that it qualifies as a remanufacture since CGC made the original production run in 1995 of cabinets and playfields.
CGC is making the cabinets and playfields.

The bally licensed parts are made officially under bally license by subs, same as before.

Its more of an upgraded continuation of the same line.

#5374 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Pretty much just the ship. Its kind of weak compared to sterns

The Shaker goes off all the time.
It's really well integrated into the game.
It's powerful, amusing and a must-have.
It adds a lot to the overall experience.
Most games have had them added over the years because the game is so much better with it. So much poorer without it.

#5377 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

wait - so does it go off more than just the center shot? Would you care to elaborate? I was told only center shot only (when gate is down).

If you have a chance to play a game that has a Shaker in it you will see what I mean.
Only then can you make an assessment I think.

#5381 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

not sure I understand. All I am asking is when the shaker goes off. Technically when does the motor go off? Is it JUST center shot or is it more?
I am not asking if the shaker itself makes enough of a diff.
You mentioned it goes off more than the center - if so when else? Just curious.

The ship exploding is quite often.
In my opinion it's enough.
Too much shaker would seem out of place and take away from the fun of it.

What other shots do think would be appropriate?

I can't really think of any off hand.

With the sounds, shaker, knocker and light show, I think it's really well balanced.

#5385 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Don’t look now but AFM currently number one pin all time in Pinside 100.
I’ve ordered my AFM LE somewhat impulsively, sure I’ve played AFM a good little bit, but not a lot. I’m going by the reviews and such, plus I don’t have any older pins and thought adding one of the better/best of the B/W pins would be good for my collection balance.
I think (from reviews) AFM is fairly/very shallow and seems to be a lot of hit the saucer shot, I’m curious to hear from the owners why such a simple pin seems to have pushed up past such others like TZ or TAF, TS which are around the same era but seem to have much more in the way of toys and maybe rules.

Medieval Madness and attack from Mars are very similar, and written by the same programmers. From a wide overview essentially the same game with the same goals.

It seems appropriate that they would be numbers 1 and 2 in the top 100 based upon their similarities.

#5418 2 years ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

anyone done the Mezel mod scoop illumination mod, and/or the Atomic Blaster ?
I have them coming, and they both look bonehead easy to install.
Eat at Eddies not being available already is a pain - hope they get more on the site soon

I kinda like the ductwork look of the vuk...

#5430 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

First of all, I love this game and probably my favorite to play. Well outside of my price range, but Cidercade in Dallas (near me) has an AFM LE that is a blast to play. Literally, my only complaint about the pin (foregoing the bad flipper alignment they have setup on theirs) is the M-A-R-T-I-A-N insert lighting. I have a really hard time telling what is lit verses what needs to be lit during game play. I haven't taken the time to read through this thread, but was wondering if that was a common issue with others and/or is there a way to adjust the blinking rate or even turn off the target lights that aren't hit yet?
I've played the original AFM a few times, but can't seem to remember if it had the same type of operation or not.

The flippers if slightly drooped are at the correct factory setting.

The lighting is probably set to slow emulation and should be set to medium.

So yes the lighting is fully adjustable, and the flippers are probably correct.

#5434 2 years ago

See post 5280 and some of the ones above it for the discussion about flipper settings

#5438 2 years ago

I think they are more suitable for location use to draw people in.

#5445 2 years ago

Its Wearing really well!
I guess they are not "prone to chipping".

#5470 2 years ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

Once I RTU, I can die happy

Well of course!
You will RULE THE UNIVERSE ! ! !

#5481 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - what's the easiest way to adjust the VUK next to the right ramp (extra ball, attack mode, etc shot)? I want it to shoot more to the left. 1 out of 20 will go down the middle. Thoughts? I tried changing power on it.....

Loosen the 4 screws and twist it firmly to the left (counter clockwise) while tightening the screws.

#5482 2 years ago

If you need more turn.

Remove the scoop and side drill out the holes appropriately until the scoop is crooked in the slot hitting the edge of the wood.

I can get my scoop to hit the left sling if I want.

#5487 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Even at -3 I'm still getting hard shots up the lock ramp flying off the wireform and into the glass/shooter lane/right outlane....anyone came up with a fix for this? The shots are already pretty weak at this point at -3....I'd really like to have the game on the default settings for strength but it's really frustrating to get punished for making the lock shot.

I was getting some balls flying off the right wire form into the outline sometimes into the shooter Lane.

I bent the mounting clip above the right slingshot up a little bit.

I then put a little more twist in The lower part of the wireform to give the lower edge of it more Bank.

Balls are staying on the wireform for the most part and my flippers are on default settings.

#5489 2 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

I had to set mine to -4 to avoid this.

I didn't like the way the game played at - 4 so I adjusted the ramp instead.