(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by DaddyManD
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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (6 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (6 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (6 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (6 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (6 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (6 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (6 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (6 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nepi23.
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#9085 3 years ago

Hi!

A new owner entering the club. I have two questions:
1) My martian topper seems not to stand up straight, but it is leaning a bit. Is there a way to adjust this - if so, how?
2) The previous owner had put mylar around the flipper buttons. What would be the proper way to remove the mylar without damaging the cabinet decals? I am planning to put lexan button covers there instead.

Thanks for any help!

IMG_9220 (resized).jpgIMG_9220 (resized).jpgIMG_9222 (resized).jpgIMG_9222 (resized).jpg
#9091 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

You absolutely sure those are mylar flipper covers? Those look like the peel and stick plastic covers I have on all my machines that is mainly just held on by static cling. If they are those, then its trivial to use a finger to take them off.
If they are mylar...then.....yikes. I'm not sure.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Agreed, those look like the Titan static cling flipper protectors. Just use your fingernail to get up under it, and I bet it will peel right off. Personally, I have these on all my games to protect the artwork from people's oily hands.

You were absolutely right! I asked the previous owner and he told me that they were mylar, but fortunately there were not and came off easily Now I can order some lexan protectors to be used instead.

#9095 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
1) My martian topper seems not to stand up straight, but it is leaning a bit. Is there a way to adjust this - if so, how?
Thanks for any help!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I guess one should not go and use brute force -tactics?

#9099 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Do you really need them?

I guess in home environment generally one does not need them, but I have put them on my pins.

#9102 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
1) My martian topper seems not to stand up straight, but it is leaning a bit. Is there a way to adjust this - if so, how?

I got a tip from CGC support that the topper martian is held in place by three (3) 8-32x3/8 truss head screws and I could remove the martian and put under it some washers to make it straight. I removed the truss head screws, but the martian won't budge... Has anyone removed the martian from the topper, is there some trick to apply here? Or could they have used also glue under the martian at the factory...

#9104 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I had my topper off and all apart to replace the motor. I don't recall the Martian as being hard to remove.
LTG : )

Yes, looking at the diagram one should be able to lift it off after the three screws have been removed... I wonder if there has been loctite on the screws and it is holding the martian on? I did use also a bit of force, but its not budging anywhere.

1 month later
#9247 3 years ago

Couple of questions:

a) Anyone have the same problem with attaching this screw (marked in the picture below with yellow arrow). How in earth is it possible? I cannot seem to get it to fasten whatever I try to do. What have you done to make it stick? If you have found a replacement screw, which part-number would that be?

b) Users of led-strip - the saucer on the right is so close to my "poor man's stadium lights" that I am afraid that the led-strip lights will melt it a bit. I put some double sided tape there to act as insulation. Any other ways you have protected the saucer?

Thanks for any advice!
Metallinpala (resized).jpgMetallinpala (resized).jpgEristyspala (resized).jpgEristyspala (resized).jpg

#9249 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the other one. Maybe there is a locknut underneath.
LTG : )

It should attach to a metal plate with holes under the upper thin metal part. I guess it would be best to find a bit longer replacement screw and with a locknut... I would like to hear, what people have done here to attach them together - or was it just "plug and play" for everyone else?

2 weeks later
#9274 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Couple of questions:
a) Anyone have the same problem with attaching this screw (marked in the picture below with yellow arrow). How in earth is it possible? I cannot seem to get it to fasten whatever I try to do. What have you done to make it stick? If you have found a replacement screw, which part-number would that be?
b) Users of led-strip - the saucer on the right is so close to my "poor man's stadium lights" that I am afraid that the led-strip lights will melt it a bit. I put some double sided tape there to act as insulation. Any other ways you have protected the saucer?
Thanks for any advice!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Here's another shot of the screw I referred to in my above post in the first question. It apparently has lost its threads.
If possible, please let me know the part-number for it so I can replace it with the correct part.
I asked the number also from CGC support, but I have not received any replies.
[I have put a temporary screw (and nut) in, but would like to replace it with the correct screw]

Thanks!

IMG_9476 (resized).jpgIMG_9476 (resized).jpg

EDIT: Nevermind, I think I found it:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4008-01041-06

2 months later
#9370 2 years ago

I am planning to have the saucers repainted. What is the best way on how to remove the inner board and the dome from the saucer? It seems they are glued together. Where to pry it open - what is the best way to proceed here? Thanks for any info!

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#9372 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

The dome is simple . . . you just firmly push down from top of dome - no prying and no tools needed (other than your hands). I can't remember if the circuit board comes off with it or not, but would be the same concept. There may be a spot of glue holding it in place, but for the most part just friction fit.

You were right, they just pop off, even though there was some glue there. Now just to figure out how the underside separates.

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#9374 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Probably the same way, but you will have to be careful not to damage the boards. Can you tell around the inside and outside perimeters if there is any glue? If you shine a bright light down through the circuit board can you see any glue dobs on the other side? It might be possible to lightly head using a hair dryer or heat gun, but you will want to be very careful not to overheat or melt anything. However, a little heat might be enough to loosen the glue where you can pop the circuit board off.

Hmm, I cannot see glue, I will try to remove the bottom with a toothpick, pressing from above.
EDIT: it does not seem to detach that way. I looks like there are 4 pillars in the edge of the hole - maybe there is glue there. I probably need to get a hairdryer.

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#9380 2 years ago

Thanks for all the information guys! Apparently the leds can be covered fairly easily for the paint job, so no need to go and try to remove the bottom.

1 week later
#9390 2 years ago

This is the plastic guard piece behind the marsian on the right. How is it secured to the plastics - are these kind of screws used as highlighted with arrows?
Or if something else, what?

For some reason this plastic guard came off from the game, need to secure it in its place again.

Thank you for any help!

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#9392 2 years ago

Thanks LTG!

2 months later
#9562 2 years ago

It seems that the 3-bank target can sometimes create a "ball-lock" where the ball stays behind the 3-bank target and in front of the standup-target under the saucer - even when there is a ball search, the ball does not seem to be able to roll down the playfield and go above the 3-bank target. It seems that I have to try to adjust the 3-bank target a bit so that the ball could roll down freely.

But how to adjust the 3-bank target? I attach a picture from the manual for reference - I have tried adjusting the screws in the bottom of the mechanism (maybe its the screw no 6(?)), but it does not seem to do any good.

Thanks for any help!

3Bank (resized).jpg3Bank (resized).jpg
#9564 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Are you saying that your 3-bank target is not level with the playfield (i.e. it extends above slightly) when in the down position?
If so, this is a very simple fix as there are two screws at the bottom of the target assembly (#6 and the same to the right in the diagram) that you will just need to adjust to raise/lower/level the target bank while in the down position.

Exactly! Yes, I tried adjusting the #6-screws, but it did not seem to do anything... I need to redo it. Plus when I adjusted, I think the mech was not in the down position.

6 months later
#9856 2 years ago

I see the chrome saucer covers available and I have an AFMR LE.

How difficult is it to remove the led-board from the saucer in order to be able to exchange the cover to the chromed version?
Any best practices on how to do it?
Apparently the led-boards are not available any more?

Thanks for any info!

#9860 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I have a standard AFMr and I put the chrome saucers and mother ship on my game. I’m very happy with the result. I’m not sure if the LE is different, but the mother ship on my game was easy to exchange. With the smaller saucers I replaced the flasher covers on each, and used a hot glue gun to attach the new flasher domes.

Thanks for your reply. In my LE the saucers have underneath them them a led-board glued to the dome - did you have the same and how did you manage to remove the led-boards? Have a look at the pic.

19cc70a7299af86bbc47b04ec5bddf5d6dc91853 (resized).jpg19cc70a7299af86bbc47b04ec5bddf5d6dc91853 (resized).jpg
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