(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

2 years ago

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  • 532 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 255 Pinsiders


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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (2 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (2 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (2 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

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#5429 1 year ago

First of all, I love this game and probably my favorite to play. Well outside of my price range, but Cidercade in Dallas (near me) has an AFM LE that is a blast to play. Literally, my only complaint about the pin (foregoing the bad flipper alignment they have setup on theirs) is the M-A-R-T-I-A-N insert lighting. I have a really hard time telling what is lit verses what needs to be lit during game play. I haven't taken the time to read through this thread, but was wondering if that was a common issue with others and/or is there a way to adjust the blinking rate or even turn off the target lights that aren't hit yet?

I've played the original AFM a few times, but can't seem to remember if it had the same type of operation or not.

#5431 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The flippers if slightly drooped are at the correct factory setting.
The lighting is probably set to slow emulation and should be set to medium.
So yes the lighting is fully adjustable, and the flippers are probably correct.

Cool, thanks for the feedback.

1 year later
#7372 8 months ago

How would one be acquired if you are not the original owner? Still contact a local distributor?

#7374 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Usually CGC wants you to go through the original distributor, but since Game Room Guys were dicks about supporting a machine they sold - not wanting to handle the CRITICAL PIC upgrade for a second owner, despite the fact that leaving it as-is COULD PERMANENTLY DAMAGE THE MACHINE, opening a ticket with CGC allowed us to get the chip upgrade directly from CGC.
Support ticket system is here:

Awesome, thank you. I'm in the process of acquiring a LE, and just trying to be prepared for things I might need to address.

#7380 8 months ago

Not going to count my chickens before they hatch, but I have a verbal agreement on an AFMr LE (green) that I'm picking up Saturday. Super excited, and I've already ordered the green Pinbits plastic protectors (which I think look great) and all Titan glow in the dark rings (I've seen/played a AFM in person with this setup, and it looked fabulous).

I've also ordered a couple of Comet Matrix lighting strips - ice blue for scoop and UV for center drain. On traditional pins, I just alligator clip or solder into the GI circuit (typically just on the leads of a light socket). Given the electronics of this pin, how would I go about easily tying a light strip into the GI?

#7382 8 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I'd love to see some pictures of that when your all done...

Most definitely. You'll be asking for my Pinside account to be suspended by the time I'm done posting! Can't come close to express how excited I am to obtain my dream pin.

#7388 8 months ago

Has anyone been able to acquire or know of a source for the AFMr GI LED bulbs (interested in cool white)? I've communicated with Comet, and they do not have them nor are they going to. Apparently NiftyLED did not transfer any of their inventory, rather, they just referred all LED customers to Comet. NiftyLED is not communicating with any end-users from my understanding.

#7391 8 months ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Well I finally beat my fiancee's 6.75 billion high score tonight. Just by a hair....[quoted image]

If you really wanted to show your love, you should have entered her initials

#7395 8 months ago

Silly question from an owner in waiting . . . how many balls does this game take (I seem to not be able to find the answer)?

#7396 8 months ago

Can anyone tell me what the Molex/plastic connector type/model is that is used for the GI bulbs? I'd like to buy a few to tap into the cables for adding on some accessory GI lighting.

#7400 8 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yep...I went through the same thing when I wanted to do my own trough light kit. (I wanted to learn how to soder/do own mods and save money by DIY vs buying a kit).
I added a trough light to a IMDN, DI, and AFMr….and each one required different ways to do it.
For attack from mars...its .100 IDC connectors.
I mean, you could just buy the IDC assembly from mezelmods ->
But for DIY...here was my setup ->
[quoted image]
and most of the parts ->
[quoted image]
So the order is ->
1. 7 SMD led strip from comet
2. Comet matrix brightness adjuster
3. JST 2.0 connectors from aliexpress (something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848166904.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e874c4dLct124)
4. 22 gauge wire
5. .100 IDC connectors from digikey. (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3-640620-4/A31090-ND/698308?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=2452_OCE18RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=707689&so=57863092&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWmpBMll6TXdOekkxTTJVeiIsInQiOiI0RHUzUnB3Vm52V290dzZxR1JjNFJDNjBkclowRHRYTW5SSkxRT29oVkorSTZsZkNKWk5KOE5UWjkzVng3MUFUT29odFQ3OWx6UUlzeUg4ZkUyTXRxT1Q4VFArUkttWU1vaTFzSTA0elM4V2ZsdEVpMTl5NW9LMnN5bDBGTnAxQiJ9)
6. .100 IDC z-connector. I bet this strip of z-connectors are at digikey somewhere...but I couldn't find them. I had to buy a strip of z-connectors from mezelmods for $4. They aren't listed on their shop...I think I had to contact them directly to ask to buy it. You don't HAVE to buy a z-connector...you could just splice all the wires together, but I wanted to keep it completely removable.

Exactly what I was looking for - thank you! I'm a Comet Matrix connoisseur when it comes to the older DMD games, but this will be my first new generation pin with all this high-fangled technology.

Crazy that you have to go to 4 different sources.

#7401 8 months ago
Quoted from atrainn:

4 balls. As for your bulb question, AFM just uses faceted bulbs, so these from comet should work, not sure if there was anything special about what Nifty made: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-non-ghosting

Actually, the NiftyLED bulbs were unique in that the housing used is proprietary. Comet does not and will not ever make these (I've had firsthand discussions with them). What I don't know since I don't possess the game yet, is if you can somehow Frankenstein a third party LED into the existing GI LED housings or if it is a closed unit.

#7405 8 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Wait a minute. I haven't had to replace an actual bulb yet in afmr. Are you saying I can't use standard Wedge (555) bulbs that I can get from most anywhere?

Correct, you cannot use standard bulbs in the GI since it takes these things.

#7408 7 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yep...I went through the same thing when I wanted to do my own trough light kit. (I wanted to learn how to soder/do own mods and save money by DIY vs buying a kit).
I added a trough light to a IMDN, DI, and AFMr….and each one required different ways to do it.
For attack from mars...its .100 IDC connectors.
I mean, you could just buy the IDC assembly from mezelmods ->
But for DIY...here was my setup ->
[quoted image]
and most of the parts ->
[quoted image]
So the order is ->
1. 7 SMD led strip from comet
2. Comet matrix brightness adjuster
3. JST 2.0 connectors from aliexpress (something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848166904.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e874c4dLct124)
4. 22 gauge wire
5. .100 IDC connectors from digikey. (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3-640620-4/A31090-ND/698308?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=2452_OCE18RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=707689&so=57863092&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWmpBMll6TXdOekkxTTJVeiIsInQiOiI0RHUzUnB3Vm52V290dzZxR1JjNFJDNjBkclowRHRYTW5SSkxRT29oVkorSTZsZkNKWk5KOE5UWjkzVng3MUFUT29odFQ3OWx6UUlzeUg4ZkUyTXRxT1Q4VFArUkttWU1vaTFzSTA0elM4V2ZsdEVpMTl5NW9LMnN5bDBGTnAxQiJ9)
6. .100 IDC z-connector. I bet this strip of z-connectors are at digikey somewhere...but I couldn't find them. I had to buy a strip of z-connectors from mezelmods for $4. They aren't listed on their shop...I think I had to contact them directly to ask to buy it. You don't HAVE to buy a z-connector...you could just splice all the wires together, but I wanted to keep it completely removable.

After researching, I can get the JST 2.0 connectors and the Feed Thru Wire Housing from Mouser (fairly local to me). I'm still trying to figure out that blasted 4 pin Z-connector (some look like they are homemade). I have a PM to somebody that sells mods with those included to see if they will share a part number & source with me.

I assume for your Z-connector you just broke off a 4 pin section as you needed it? Also, do you really need the brightness adjuster or is that just a nice to have in case you want to tweak?

#7409 7 months ago

In preparation for my soon to be AFMr, I've designed a keychain for the coin door key to match others I offer for a variety of pins. Keychains are square transparent acrylic with the photo size approximately 1.25" square. If anyone is interested in purchasing one please PM me. I sell them for $12 for the first keychain plus $5 each for the next 5 if ordering multiples. Pricing includes US shipping, and I'm happy to custom design for any pin.

#7412 7 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Might be a good application for a 3D print, no?

Small piece, but maybe. I'm more concerned with how the pins and wiring are done. Might be easier to hack an existing socket.

#7414 7 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Also, if you are just needing to buy replacements, you can get them from PlanetaryPinball. Link below.

Wow, they are proud of those. I was hoping to possibly convert to cool white, but even if they had them it would be over $100.

#7420 7 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ooooh...yeah, if you can find out the actual source of those zconnectors, that would be awesome. I'm sure they are called something else in the electronics industry besides z-connectors.
And yeah, you just break off however much you need at a time...2,4,6 pin, etc.
And no, you don't need the brightness adjuster. I bought them because I didn't know exactly how much a 7 smd would throw, or maybe a 5 smd wasn't going to be enough...etc. Easier to adjust down from a 7. Which...I believe I did (the 7 was too bright full power). I would probably still recommend though if you have to buy a led strip from comet anyway.

I usually end up just cutting SMDs off the strip to change intensity - but that is a non-reversible action.

Also, Eric from Pinduino pointed me to these: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236

#7421 7 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yep...I went through the same thing when I wanted to do my own trough light kit. (I wanted to learn how to soder/do own mods and save money by DIY vs buying a kit).
I added a trough light to a IMDN, DI, and AFMr….and each one required different ways to do it.
For attack from mars...its .100 IDC connectors.
I mean, you could just buy the IDC assembly from mezelmods ->
But for DIY...here was my setup ->
[quoted image]
and most of the parts ->
[quoted image]
So the order is ->
1. 7 SMD led strip from comet
2. Comet matrix brightness adjuster
3. JST 2.0 connectors from aliexpress (something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848166904.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e874c4dLct124)
4. 22 gauge wire
5. .100 IDC connectors from digikey. (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3-640620-4/A31090-ND/698308?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=2452_OCE18RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=707689&so=57863092&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWmpBMll6TXdOekkxTTJVeiIsInQiOiI0RHUzUnB3Vm52V290dzZxR1JjNFJDNjBkclowRHRYTW5SSkxRT29oVkorSTZsZkNKWk5KOE5UWjkzVng3MUFUT29odFQ3OWx6UUlzeUg4ZkUyTXRxT1Q4VFArUkttWU1vaTFzSTA0elM4V2ZsdEVpMTl5NW9LMnN5bDBGTnAxQiJ9)
6. .100 IDC z-connector. I bet this strip of z-connectors are at digikey somewhere...but I couldn't find them. I had to buy a strip of z-connectors from mezelmods for $4. They aren't listed on their shop...I think I had to contact them directly to ask to buy it. You don't HAVE to buy a z-connector...you could just splice all the wires together, but I wanted to keep it completely removable.

Based upon your recommendations, I believe these components should do the trick (minus the Comet stuff):

- Feed Thru Wire Housing | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 Pin Power Connector | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- Feed Thru Z Connector (32 pin designed to be cut to size) | https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236

Also, instead of buying wire, I'm just going to make my harnesses short (the length of the JST 2 cable) and then use the Comet Matrix extensions to route to where my add-on lighting mods will be.

Just got my parts ordered - now my disappointment of not being able to do add-on lighting has turned into me being really stoked!

#7427 7 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok nice...glad you found a local place for your electronics....and what another place to buy the z-connectors! Good to see that its at least the same price as mezelmods price so mezelmods wasn't price gouging me.
And with the led strips, you can really just snip them to length? Do you have to do anything to the end of them once you cut them?
Good luck with your upgrade!

Cutting is simple on the Comet LED strips (done it dozes of times for all the mods I sell). You just have to maintain a resistor with each SMD (i.e. for every SMD you cut off, also cut off it's corresponding resistor). This image shows were all SMDs and resistors are in sequence. Sometimes in a strip the sequence will reverse (e.g. S|R|S|R|R|S|R|S) Same principle applies when cutting, you must leave each SMD's corresponding resistor intact for it to illuminate. Just work backwards from the opposite end of the wires in pairs, and you'll never mess up.

As far as doing anything to the end after you cut the strip - it always helps to lick it with your tongue to seal in the flavor.

#7428 7 months ago

Just got these in the mail. Oh man, I'm getting excited. Only 3 more days before I pickup my game.

FYI, I bought both the standard and the thin flipper bands to see which I like best on this game.

#7430 7 months ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

I had these installed on my game from day 1 and changed the flipper bats to enhance the color. Great color choice-you'll love the look! Don't forget your Eat At Eddy's!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is a beautiful game, and I also have the green plastic protectors on the way. I’ll have to think about the bats. A translucent green might look nice. As far as the E@E, I have my own ideas for that.

#7433 7 months ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Anyone with the eat at eddys mod can you take a pic of the whole playfield for me i can only find up close pics. Im still iffy on this mod.

Who do I look like, Google?



#7438 7 months ago

BTW, you know my comment was in jest, right? I typed it while smiling?

Seriously, however, if you’ve not figured out how to use the Pinside search features or how to view the image gallery in a topic, they are extremely useful features of this forum.

#7443 7 months ago

I had a few goodies arrive today. Now all I need is the actual machine to go with them - that's happening tomorrow.

#7445 7 months ago

So, I'm not one to count my chicken's before they hatch, but I'm 99.9% certain that an AFMr LE (green) will be in my possession tomorrow. I found one in pristine condition within a day trip of where I live that is currently owned by a fellow Pinsider who really seems to love his pinball. He has a significant collection of all newer pins and typically LE models. He's got a couple of new ones coming in and needs to make room, so he decided to put his AFM on the market. Coincidentally (well, not really), it was exactly what I've been looking and saving for over the last year. Fortunately for me, I was the first to make a serious offer and we came to terms. I always dreamed one day that I would be able to join the exclusive AFM/AFMr owners club, and now it's just one day away.

Since the pin is in stock condition (beautiful and pristine at that), I do want to put my own flair on it - I just can't help myself. I've spent the last week reading every single post in this thread, and every other thread that references AFMr. Anyway, down the line I will most likely add some external lighting mods (definitely the interactive flipper buttons, and maybe the undercab lighting), but for now here are the things I have ordered. Let me know if I've overlooked anything obvious:

- Full set of AFMr Cliffy protectors
- Pinbits green plastic protectors (I have thin lock nuts coming - not sure what else I will need to make these work)
- Full set of Titan rings, posts, and flipper rubbers in glow-in-the-dark
- Parts to build my own lighting harnesses to tap into GI to for my planned lighting mods (trough light and scoop light using Comet Matrix LED strips)
- Nylon washers for the leg bolts (picked these up at Ace Hardware for $0.27 each)

- The other two things on my list that will come a little later are
1) Target decals - I'm going to design my own just for the red targets and the top of the 3 target gate. Not sure exactly what the design will be yet, but I don't care for the ones I've seen out there. Also, for some reason I really like the greens to be blank in this game (probably the semi-transparency).
2) Eat at Eddies - Well, my plan is to design my own version of this. I have something in my head, but not on digital paper yet. There are a few things I would prefer be different, and I want to put my own flare on the mod. More to come on that.

#7448 7 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

See my post #7302 at the link below:
Thin nuts can work, but there will still be very little thread to "grab". There are plenty on here that have done it and do not seem to have issues. So, what I did was likely overboard, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the entire nut is on the threads. Just posting so that you are aware what will need to be changed if you want it similar.
Welcome to the club!

Thank you for the link. I'll see how things go for me, and turn to ordering new posts if I need to. These protectors are much thicker than I expected them to be.

#7449 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Titans play dead IMO. I'd use the glow-in-the-dark for accents like posts if you want, but Marco white is the way to go for the rubber. Lots more ball action. Marco is the only white rubber worth using. Everything else I've used falls short, and some are AWFUL.
I'd also have a look at the animated EL art blades from pingraffix. Really cool finishing move to the inside of the cabinet.

Thanks for your perspective. I've played Titans on both of my other pins since I've owned them, and personally really like the look and the feel. Of course, I really don't have anything to compare to except the crappy deteriorated black rubber ones that came on Getaway (my JP was my neighbor's and he always had Titans on all of his pins too).

#7453 7 months ago

I initially had transparent with red posts on my getaway then switched to clear posts and red rings which looked much better. I have yellow on my DE Jurassic Park, I they look great.

Anyway, didn’t mean to turn this into a silicone vs. rubber conversation. Everyone go shoot down some Martian ships, and I guarantee you’ll feel good about whatever kind of rings you have installed.

#7464 7 months ago

Look what found its way to my house today. More pics to come when I get it unpacked and setup.

IMG_2824 (resized).JPG
#7471 7 months ago

It’s a beauty! LE #363 in perfect condition with 80 plays on it. Seller was an awesome guy, and he let me play the games I wanted in his collection, including the new Jurassic Park LE, Monster Bash Remake LE, and Black Knight LE - all 3 were awesome, as well as the rest of his collection.

I’m waiting for all my upgrades to arrive, so I can do everything at once. Even so, this pin is a stunning out of the box.


#7480 7 months ago

So, I'm really on the fence about adding Pin Stadium lights, mainly due to the cost of the mod. For those of you who have them, I was wondering what your thoughts are once you've owned them for awhile and played several games. How might you persuade met to go for it, or do you regret your decision in any way? I've seen every post related to Pin Stadium in this thread, but they are somewhat limited and I know that photos probably don't do the lighting justice. Also, I'm sure everyone posted when they first installed the lights, and opinions may have changed as time passes.

My main desires are as follows:

- General better illumination of the middle of the playfield
- General better illumination of the back of the playfield
- Making the UV reactive inks on the playfield pop/glow (e.g. the green saucers, et. al.) - this would also be good for my Titan glow rings.

Also, have any of you purchased them at shows, and was there any kind of discount for doing so other than saving shipping? If I decide to buy them, I'm not sure I can wait until TPF 2020, but depends on if they offer a significant discount.

#7483 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

You can adjust the GI brightness and color as well.[quoted image][quoted image]

So, they don't turn the game purple do they (I don't want to end up in the color puke thread)? Seriously, does the mix of UV and white eliminate the "purpleization" while also giving a nice glow to the UV elements?

#7486 7 months ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

The UV is tied to a flasher, so it is only on when that particular flasher is active. I have mine tied into the flasher in the big saucer. It is pretty intense.

Do you have a video you can share? If you don't want to post publically, I can PM and give you my email.

#7490 7 months ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Destroying the saucer with my Pinstadium UV flashers connected to the mother saucer flasher. Not sure why things come across so red at the end of the video. Hope this gives you some idea of what to expect.

Okay, that's pretty awesome.

#7495 7 months ago

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.

Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.

#7498 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The new plastics are the exact OEM replacements.
PPS is the license holder of the game. All parts from Rick will be exact replacements.

Thank you for the info. I'm going to consider it but not pull the trigger yet. There are minor issues with some of the other plastics (I've not looked closely at everything), but the lane returns are most noticeable. Of course the close-up camera shot does exaggerate the issue some.

Quoted from maffewl:

If you end up purchasing, I'd buy the saucer plastics (left and right of the scoop) from you if you don't need them.

If/when I decide to replace them, you have first right of refusal on my saucer plastics.

#7503 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wow, that sucks. It's DEFINITELY their problem, and it's not a cosmetic issue that would have manifested within two weeks of manufacture. It's a factory defect of using the wrong ink on the PET-G plastic, causing a reaction where the ink appears to crackles OVER TIME as it pulls away from the plastic. This problem didn't begin to show itself for MONTHS (almost a year in our case), which is normal for this kind of defect. They were kind enough to replace the ones we had, even though this one was second-owner.
Sucks that they're blowing the issue off now and making you pay for their defect.

Okay, that is interesting. Why would they not offer consistent support in the same situation? Might it be because I'm beyond the initial 2 year warranty (even though that is not what was communicated to me?).

#7506 7 months ago

Well, I followed up with a reply equipped with the new info about what is occurring and how they have replaced for others. I'll see how they respond.

LTG, do you have any input on this or can you help me?

#7509 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Sorry. I have no say in this.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

#7511 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

You have to remember that our replacement was a year ago. Also, if you're outside the "normal" 2 year warranty, that's probably grounds for you spending $139 to replace it. The other owner should have had it taken care of within the 2 year period since it started showing up on machines after about 6-8 months.
When I initially replied, I didn't realize we were outside the 2 year warranty period (time flies!). I'm pretty sure that means you're on your own.

I definitely understand my situation, and I am being very respectful in my communications with CGC. I'm just not one to take the first "no" for the final answer in any circumstance. I know that the frontline support staff follow the processes and rules that have been established, but somewhere up the line is a decision maker that has the final say regarding if/how to support the customer. I realize they have no obligation to do so, but if they were to make a decision to support me then they would definitely earn my support and public praise. If not, then I have nothing negative to express about them, I have no hard feelings, and I move on with life.

Added 8 months ago:

To my surprise, the CGC technician (Art) just called me regarding the two cases I have open (PIC 2.0 chip & Plastics), and even transferred me to the VP of Sales (Ryan) who is responsible for approving the parts warranty. I must say that even though they have no obligation at all to support me (both as second owner of a game and also the 24 month warranty on my pin has expired), they were both extremely helpful, friendly, and supportive.

While they are unfortunately unable to provide me a replacement plastic set, Ryan took the time and effort to explain to me why. It isn't just a matter of policy or strict adherence to the terms of the warranty. Rather, due to the age of the AFM title they just don't have any plastic sets left in inventory to distribute. Regarding the PIC 2.0 chip, Art directed me to engage the original distributor, and they are now sending me the updated chip.

I can honestly say that my experience with CGC customer support in the few days I've owned my AFMr LE has been very positive, respectful, and extremely responsive to my needs. After actually speaking with Ryan & Art, I feel even more positive about their company and the quality products they are bringing to the pinball community. Ryan was also nice enough to chat a little pinball with me (wasn't in a rush to move on and get me off the phone), and even extended the offer for me to call their support team any time I might experience an issue with my game in the future.

I'm a firm believer of letting others know when I have a positive customer experience, and CGC has treated me as well as I could expect given my particular situation.

#7512 7 months ago

So since I'm changing out all of my rings, I'll be left with a full set of OEM black rings with only 80 plays on them. I don't know if anyone wants them or not, but I'd be happy to send them to the first to claim them for $10 (includes US shipping). Otherwise, they are just going in the trash.

#7514 7 months ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

You should hang on to them just in case a rubber breaks. Can use till you get a replacement

Good point, let me correct my statement " . . . Otherwise, they are just going in storage."

#7515 7 months ago

I just finished installing my plastic protector set (the low-profile nuts were an absolute requirement - thanks neverahighscore for suggesting that). Other than that, it was just figuring out how to take everything apart and put it back together.

While I was at it, I also replaced all of the rings/sleeves that I could with my new ones. Now I only have all of those in the pop area under the ramp. I have no idea how to remove that ramp, so I'm about to go researching. OCD refuses to let me play the game until I get all of rings the same color.

UPDATE: Well my research hasn't yielded any info on how to remove the pop ramp in order to get to all of the rings underneath. Can someone please provide some instruction/pointers, or point me to documentation that explains how to do it? I guess I could just start taking things apart, but wanted to avoid any unnecessary steps.

#7517 7 months ago

Thanks, but I needed to pull the pop ramps too. Took me awhile, and it wasn't easy, but I finally figured it out.

Everything you said + for the back ramp you had to remove the right wire form, the 2 ramp flap screws, the long standoff post, the gate at the left end, and even then it wouldn't move enough out of the way for me to reach everything so I had to cut the 4 zip ties. Finally was able to move it around enough to get to all of the posts and rings. Put it all back together with no left over fasteners, so I would call that a success.

#7518 7 months ago

So here are my pics after updating all of the rings and sleeves to Titan glow-in-the-dark and also adding the Pinbits green plastic protectors. I really like the way it came out. My Cliffy's are on order and I have some light strips coming to illuminate the scoop and center trough using my homemade wire harnesses.

IMG_2845 (resized).JPG
#7522 7 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

You should look at red comet rings for the bumpers.

Those are nice, but I really like the Pinball Life Britecaps (have them in my Getaway). They have an outer ring that stays lit and an inner ring you can adjust to light based on the vibration of the pop firing. This gives a good visual to go along with the pop action.


#7523 7 months ago

FYI, if anyone orders a set of rings form Titan, please be aware that the AMFr set is different than the original. Eric and I worked this out, and he is going to add a profile for AMFr so that the game can have its own recommended kits. If you want, you can go by the manual (2-39), but you will need two add 2 additional of item C For the 2 mini-posts in the game (by default one post has the ring and the other doesn’t, but not listed in the rings itemization, and I wanted both covered). FYI, these are the 1” red pointed posts - one above the left Martian and the other above the large flying saucer.

#7529 7 months ago
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

I compared them all last night. The ring lists for both versions are actually the same. The Kit ID #3 that you ordered was a "custom" kit. The changes are in the description. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/3
Here is a "Stock" kit: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/17
If you plan to run the adjustable outlane post on the right side all the way down, I would change the 1-1/4" to 1-1/2"

Thanks for the clarification, Eric. I appreciate you taking the time to figure everything out, and updating the group. Above & beyond service like you always deliver.

#7530 7 months ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

Where can I buy the bracket for mounting the Martians?
What is the best pop bumper mod, Brite Mods or the Comet Bumper Disc Ring?

"Best" is in the eye of the beholder. Really depends upon what you want. You can set the PBL's to always be on (like the Comets) or for the outer ring to always be on with the inner LEDs flashing based upon the pop's vibration (the sensitivity is adjustable with a small Philips head screwdriver). I spend all kinds of money with Comet and love their products, but in this one case I prefer the Pinball Life product. The PBL ones also have white under lighting and they simply snap into the wedge socket w/o any wires and no gluing to the cap is required (the comets have a wire with a socket at the end, and you need to hot glue them into the inside of the cap). Also, just to be clear, these do not fire by being tied into the pop bumper somehow. The center lighting is strictly based on vibration sensed by the mod. You'll have to play around with the sensitivity to try to localize it to the pops as best you can verses heavy bass or shaker motor triggering them.

Of course the BriteCaps are more expensive at $12.95 each ($39 for a set of 3) verses the Comet rings at $7.95 each ($24 for a set of 3)


#7532 7 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

You might want to check clearance.

No BriteCaps in PBL Clearance or rings in Comet clearance. What are you referring to?

#7534 7 months ago

Added a scoop light (ice blue) and a trough light (UV).

I selected the ice blue because I thought it would complement the light blue graphics and the blue inserts above "return to battle" light. However, I'm not sure that I'm happy with it. I may order a green strip next time I need something from Comet (will be soon). I like the UV light. The camera exaggerates the blue, but in person it looks much better. Throws some light on the area and makes the UV rings really glow.

IMG_2846 (resized).JPGIMG_2848 (resized).JPGIMG_2847 (resized).JPG
#7537 7 months ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

There appears to be no extra room above the pop bumper caps for the Brite caps. The ramps are right on top of the caps.
Will they fit?

Since I have the PBL BriteCaps on my Getaway, I can actually measure pop height with and without. I’ll try to get this done later and will report back.

#7539 7 months ago

Thank you to everyone who provided input, photos, and video in response to my request about Pin Stadium lighting. I just placed my order based upon everyone's positive reviews when used on AFM.

Also, if anyone else is on the fence, I searched the web and found a current 15% off promo code before I ordered: "buffalo". Not sure how long this will be active, but thought I would share with everyone.

#7540 7 months ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

There appears to be no extra room above the pop bumper caps for the Brite caps. The ramps are right on top of the caps.
Will they fit?

I test fitted this morning, and the BriteCaos will work without issue. However, you will need to remove the ramp to access all three pops.

Now just need to figure out which color. I color matched blues on my Getaway, and they look really nice. However, I don’t know how red with red caps would look.

For those of you who added the Comet rings, what color LEDs did you go with?

#7541 7 months ago

So up until now, I had only heard of strobe multi-ball. Was playing tonight in a totally dark room, my strobe is set to high, and voila . . . I was awarded SMB by SOL. WOW! What an experience - almost felt like I was at a rave or something. Absolutely loved it!

#7545 7 months ago

I received my PinStadium lights today, and just finished installing them. I must say that I am not disappointed. For now I’m just going with a fixed color and brightness (not using any of the randomizations), but I love how it brightened the game. I have it set to where lighting is more cool in color the way I like it. I can also now actually see the backboard.

My favorite part has to be the UVs tapped into the center saucer flasher - awesome light show!

Without PinStadium

With PinStadium

#7546 7 months ago

So the speaker panel rattle on this game has been driving me crazy. In addition to rattling as a result of its own vibration, my game room is upstairs so just walking around it caused vibration. After thinking about it a little, I came up with a perfect solution that completely eliminates the speaker panel rattle. I unscrewed the two spacers that the top of the panel hooks onto. I then took some thin silicone post sleeves that I had, and pushed them down over the spacer. I put the screw back through the sleeve and spacer then reinstalled. It is a perfect fit and the sleeve absorbs all of the vibration.

#7549 7 months ago
Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

Looks great!
Not PinStadium related...
I don’t see any light bleed from your speaker lights. Did you do something to eliminate the often huge cracks you see on both sides of the panel? I’m always seeing the lights shining through.

Hmm, given that I don’t know what you are referring to, my game must not have that issue. I’ve done nothing aside from my mount mod with the thin post sleeves.

#7550 7 months ago

So, I kind of like Mezel's E@E building, but I don't really care for the overall style of it. I think the game calls for something more modern that matches the skyscrapers in the artwork of the backboard & backglass. Therefore, I've decided to design and build my own. Mine will have an illuminated sign on top, green tinted windows to match the game, and two fire bulbs on the inside. Also, it will be secured via friction fit and a magnet sheet so it is not permanently affixed, but still secure in place and won't rattle.

I've already printed a template and it works great. Now just need to get the time to print the actual final model. I plan on using a white marble filament for the exterior. I'll provide plenty of pics and a video to show it off once I'm done.

pasted_image (resized).png
#7552 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

White might be too stark a contrast with what's on the playfield.

This is white marble which has an overall appearance of a light grey, and I think it will look really good for a modern style building.

Here is a pic with true white on bottom and the marble white on top.
IMG_2871 (resized).JPG

Here's a pic of one of my JP mods using the white marble for the T-Rex sign. You can see the contrast between the marble and the white decal part of the sign.

JP (resized).jpg
#7555 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Shattered windows near the side impact would be a cool effect with the ones on the left side mostly intact.
I mean the building was just hit by a spaceship.
Faux realism! Lol

I like that idea. I might play with it to see what I can do.

Well, I messed around and realized that with broken windows you'll see the inside of the model which I don't want. You might just see black, but you could also see empty space and on the upper windows you might see the wires and lighting. Maybe I can figure out a way to make them at least looked cracked, but not sure.

#7562 7 months ago

Well, I didn't realize there was such passion over the AFM chute cover design. My intent is to design and create something that I like for my game, and that I think fits the theme of the existing artwork. That is definitely a modern style building, IMO, when looking at the buildings on the backboard and the backglass. The "Eat at Eddy's" is just a fun tie in. I see it more as a billboard on top of the building like you would see in many large cities. Heck, at worst Eddy's is a national chain and this building is home to their corporate HQ, so why not have your slogan on top of the building? I'm pretty much settled on my initial model, but I may later try to work in some additional damage to the building as I can make time to work on it.

#7565 7 months ago
Quoted from Fizz:

Personally I don't think any building really fits. Everything else in the game, you are attacking Martians, gathering weapons etc. And saving cities.

I think the point is the Martians are attacking cities, and this is a building in the city you are defending. You are not really shooting the building in the lock shot, at least I don't perceive it this way. Just like you are not shooting the black chute when the mod is not there. It is just a ball return.

#7572 7 months ago

So here is my first prototype. I still need to put burn marks on it, but overall I think it came out pretty good.

With PinStadium

Without PinStadium

#7580 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Added a scoop light (ice blue) and a trough light (UV).
I selected the ice blue because I thought it would complement the light blue graphics and the blue inserts above "return to battle" light. However, I'm not sure that I'm happy with it. I may order a green strip next time I need something from Comet (will be soon). I like the UV light. The camera exaggerates the blue, but in person it looks much better. Throws some light on the area and makes the UV rings really glow.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just got my green LED strip installed, and I like it much better than the ice blue - definitely the way to go.

#7586 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Haha!! I haven't successfully saved 3 countries ONCE yet in my hundreds of plays.

I think you need to utilize the super skill shot to help you accomplish your goal, if you are not already doing so (Page D in the manual).

#7588 7 months ago

Finished my E@E building. Took a fire starter to it & then a flat clear coat to seal it in. Wen't more for a subtle burn than a crispy one.

#7589 7 months ago

Also, I have the PBL BriteCaps on order (red) and Cliffy's too. After that, I may design a few target decals for the red targets (I like how the green ones look, so I'll keep those plane), then call it a day. Well, I also plan on doing some LED flipper buttons and tying those into the speaker lights, along with adding some of the static cling Titan button area protectors.

#7592 7 months ago
Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

[quoted image]
Light bleeding through the cracks near the speakers. I didn’t see any in your photos, but I have seen it in person on other LE remakes with light-up speakers. I was wondering if you had added something to fill the cracks. I guess your panel must have a tighter fit than most.

I’ve not noticed that, but now I’m curious and will look more closely. I would think that if it were there then I would have been bothered by it by now. Here is a pic of my panel lowered to compare with yours (I assume you have the issue). Probably a couple of ways to resolve it as I’ve had some bleed on my Getaway when I added illuminated flipper buttons. I just created a black bead using electrical tape that sealed the gap, but you could also use some beaded weather stripping on the back edges of the panel.


#7594 7 months ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

Awesome eat at eddies mod. Wanting to know how this was done.

My own 3D design and 3D print. I sourced Comet lighting products and custom made my own wiring harness to tie it into GI w/o altering original wiring in any way. Then used a fire starter to create burns, and finally coated with clear matte finish spray enamel.

#7603 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I didn't realize there were variances?
I was looking at this one:

The only variance I am aware of is the one that I just developed: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/152#post-5260091

I like the idea, but didn't like the old style office building. My idea was to make one in the likeness of the buildings in the artwork on the backboard & translite.

#7604 7 months ago

Just finished installing my Pinball Life BriteCaps EVO (red with original AFMr caps). I have the outer ring set to its brightest, and the inner ring to light on vibration. FYI, replacing the bulbs/caps on these is quite the chore. I had to remove the right wire frame, the tractor beam ramp, and the back ramp had to be fully loosed so that it could be moved around enough to get to the cap underneath it. Fit is perfectly good with nothing touching or rubbing.

#7609 7 months ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

That looks great to me. Thank you so much for sharing the pics and comment.
I was worried about fit. I am scared to ask how long it took.
Thx again

Well, I didn’t time myself but if anyone decides to give it a try, I’m happy to document how to remove everything since I’ve now done it twice: once to replace my rings and a second time for these pop lights. There are a couple of things you have to watch out for.

#7610 7 months ago

I just defeated Mars for the first time ever - lots of fun. However nowhere close to ruling the universe as I only had three achievements.

#7613 7 months ago
Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

[quoted image]
Light bleeding through the cracks near the speakers. I didn’t see any in your photos, but I have seen it in person on other LE remakes with light-up speakers. I was wondering if you had added something to fill the cracks. I guess your panel must have a tighter fit than most.

Playing tonight I do notice that I have some minor bleeding. However, it is not really noticeable when standing close to the machine when plying. However, you do see it if you shift to the side one way or the other.

#7615 7 months ago

So, I've been asked about any pointers I might have when installing the Pinball Life EVO BriteCaps. Here is my best effort to document the process. Before starting I recommend placing a towel over the playfield to protect it. BTW, this same process can be used to remove the pieces you need to replace the rings (I did have to cut the zip ties from the top ramp to get the access I needed however - no biggie, just took lots of pics beforehand and redid zip ties when putting it all back together).

-1) Remove the cow ramp by removing the 2 post screws and the 2 ramp flap screws. Be sure you use a screwdriver with the correct size head so as not to strip the ramp screws. When replacing the 2 ramp flap screws, make sure the heads are seated below the metal flap. You may have to use something thin and non-abrasive to "pop" the flap up over the head when you are re-installing.
1 (resized).jpg

-2) Remove the right wire frame. Pay careful attention to the center mount screw as there will be a zip tie that will come loose from this. When re-installing, be sure to first put the ramp in position and slide the zip tie back over the post.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the right lower sling.
2a (resized).jpg

b) Remove the screw from the center support.
2b (resized).jpg

c) Carefully slide the two wires from where they are seated into the metal bracket attached to the top ramp. Note that you cannot fully remove the wireframe since wires are attached to it, but carefully set it out of the way and be careful not to scratch anything.
2c (resized).jpg

-3) Loosen the top ramp so that you can maneuver it around enough to replace the pop caps You do not need to fully remove the top ramp, but if you do you will need to cut all of the zip ties off and disconnect cables - I highly suggest not doing this.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the post securing the top ramp above the 3 pop bumpers.
3a (resized).jpg

b) Loosen the top gate nut and remove the lower gate screw securing to the plastic, then rotate the gate so as to access the ramp flap screws. Also, remove the 2 ramp flap screws as performed in step 1.
3b (resized).jpg

c) THIS IS CRITICAL OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR PLAYFIELD AND/OR CABINET | 1) Use a small bag or sock or something to wrap around the upper ramp flap. When maneuvering the ramp around you could scratch the playfield with the thin metal piece. 2) Do the same to cover the metal support bracket at the right of the top plastic ramp. This piece is sharp, and it will scratch your side blade/panel or even the top of your side rail as you maneuver it around.
3c (resized).jpg

-4) Maneuver the top ramp so as to access removal of the 2 screws on one of the pop caps. You may have to hold it up or to the side (or have an assistant do it) to keep it out of the way depending upon which cap you are replacing. Be careful not to scratch the underside of it with a screwdriver or other tool while working to replace the caps.

a) Remove the two screws, and set them aside as you will be using the longer screws supplied with the BriteCaps to re-secure the caps after installation.

b) Remove the LED bulb.

c) Insert the new BriteCap module and orient it so that the screw holes line up with the holes in the housing, and the two small adjustment screws on top of the BriteCap are accessible (i.e. not covered up by the ramp to where you can't get to them).

d) Repeat the process for the other two pop caps.

-5) Turn the pin on in order to adjust the brightness of the outer rings and to set the inner rings to be solid or triggered by vibration. The document that comes with the caps will tell you which adjustment screw is which, or you just turn one to see what it controls. You'll need a fine tipped Philips screwdriver to turn these screws. You only need to turn slightly to achieve change, so don't over do it.
5 (resized).jpg

a) Find which screw controls the out ring brightness. Turn this screw to adjust to desired brightness (I have mine at 100%). Perform this for all 3 caps, as you'll want them to be equally bright, I assume.

b) Turn the other screw to desired setting. If the inner ring is currently on, then it will always be on. If you want it off by default and triggered by vibration then turn the screw slightly until the inner ring goes off. When set to the off position, the inner ring will flash during vibration (i.e. when a ball activates its pop). When adjustments are completed, turn the game off.

-6) Using the longer supplied screws, secure each of the caps by carefully aligning all of the holes. Tighten the screws until the caps are snug and don't vibrate, but don't tighten so much that you strip the holes.

-7) Install the top ramp.

a) Position the top plastic ramp back in place over the post and align the ramp flap holes. Insert and fully tighten the two top ramp flap screws, making sure that the heads rest below the metal flap.

b) Reposition the gate and insert the screw and tighten to secure the bottom part of the gate, then tighten the top nut of the gate.

c) Place the washer and nut back on the support post and tighten.

-8) Install the wire frame.

a) Insert the 2 wires into the support holes on the metal bracket attached to the upper ramp.

b) Place the bottom of the rap over the sling post but do not add nut back yet. Loop the zip tie over the center post to secure the wires, then insert the center post screw and tighten.

c) Place the washer and nut back onto the sling post, position the wire frame so that it is aligned with return lane, and tighten nut.

-9) Install the cow ramp.

a) Position the ramp in place and secure the 2 ramp flap screws fully. Again, make sure the heads of the screws sit below the metal ramp.

b) Insert and tighten the two post screws to secure the ramp.

ALL DONE! Turn the game back on, and enjoy your new PBL Brite Caps.

#7617 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Great write up!
Definitely going to use the sock idea for lots stuff.

Thanks, I was fortunate enough to notice before I did any damage. If you are not aware, I think it would be really easy to accidentally scratch things up pretty badly.

#7619 7 months ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

Thanks, great step by step description. A little overwhelming.

You can do it, just learn from what I had to go through. Take your time and follow the process, and you'll do great. I wish I had someone walk me through it, but figured I'd try to help those who came after me since I had to figure things out on my own. BTW, if anyone else knows a better/easier way, then by all means please contribute to the conversation.

#7620 7 months ago

Just finishing installing all of my Cliffy protectors. Man, that is some serious work. Nothing overly complicated, but a lot of work and I spent a couple of hours doing it. Two key things I learned. First, I could not install both SOL Cliffy amp Mantis protectors. I could get them both to fit, but the mantis distorted the Cliffy where I could not get the lips to lay flat on the playfield. Therefore, I opted for the Cliffy’s. Second, you have to remove three posts to install all of the protectors. I saw where others couldn’t get the posts removed. All I had to do is remove the nut and washer from the underside, then use a hammer and punch tool to punch the post up through the bottom of the playfield.

Update: I played 2 games and got 3 balls hung up on the Cliffy's. The 3 target bank which I resolved by adjusting the default target depth, the backside of the SOL which I adjusted, and the outhole drain which I haven't done anything with. It seems like after installing the outhole drain one the edge of the Cliffy is not flush with the playfield. Not sure how I need to fix it as it was flush when installed, but when tightening the assembly underneath it pushes it up for some reason.

#7628 7 months ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Thanks for the write up, those look awesome! Question, the led’s under the caps are just normal leds? They aren’t boards or something?

Thanks. Now that I've had them in, I think I want to take everything apart again and adjust the brightness on the outer ring (I have them cranked to max). Unfortunately, will take some effort on this game with everything that has to be removed, so I will probably be lazy for awhile and just live with it.

No, the LEDs are on a disk (i.e. round board) that has a fixed lead tab that plugs directly into the cap light socket. I've attached a pic, but this is an older setup - now the center ring adjustment is on top and is a screw. They have the color of your choice when ordering on the outer and inner rings on top, and cool white on the underside. IMO, clear caps would not look good with these as you would clearly see the board. Also, PBL does sell several different color caps with their lights ($3 extra per cap).


bc_evo-4 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png

#7629 7 months ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Also, I like the green in your sol hole.. could you show a pic of where that’s at?

To light the SOL, I used a Comet Matrix 3 SMD strip and brightness controller. To tap into GI, I made a custom harness that pulls power from an existing connector and passes through to the same type of connector on one end to plug back onto a GI bulb, and a connector compatible with what the Comet Matrix lineup uses on the other end.

From the underside of the playfield I mounted the strip using the adhesive backing in the inside of the chute (backside) on the downslope near the bottom just above where it flattens.

#7632 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put a similar setup on my DW recently.
I ordered transparent bodies well as transluscent bodies from Zitt.
You can test them with a battery on your workbench to see if you like either one before installation.
After testing, I went with the transluscent bodies.
[quoted image]
They light up the area beautifully and you cant see the wire.
You can also get colors.

Those look really nice on DW.

#7633 7 months ago

FYI, if anyone would like to order a wiring harness that lets you tap into the GI and connect a Comet Matrix cable, I will sell them for $10 for the first and $5 for each additional with shipping included. Just PM me with quantity for payment details.

#7635 7 months ago

Here is a pic of the wiring harness (pic is missing the included Z-connector which allows you to connect to an existing GI wire for power). This is not my original idea, and full credit goes to Gogdog for the idea and instructions he posted earlier in this thread. It would cost someone as much or more than what I'm charging to source the materials and build for themselves. However, I know that many guys would rather buy a readymade piece than to go to the effort of creating their own, so I thought I would make them available to anyone who might be interested.

I'm making them for $5 a piece and the first order has to cover packing materials and shipping cost (thus, the extra $5). I know what parts have to be ordered, how to make the pigtails, and test each one before I ship. These allow for anyone to simply add lighting mods without any physical modifications to their pin (i.e. they are fully reversible, and do not require modifying the existing wiring whatsoever.

#7639 7 months ago

Thanks for the link, as I didn't realize Mezel sold them. Quite honestly, these aren't fun to make (can't tell you how many times I've nearly punctured my fingers), but I wanted to make them available for those seeking to do their own simple and low-cost lighting mods (scoop lighting, backboard lighting, trough lighting, etc.)

#7642 7 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It just seemed odd to resell the harness when mezel already sells them and their harness was used as the guide by gogdog to make it originally.

I didn't realize Mezel sold them individually apart from combined with their mods, or I would have just bought mine from them and pointed people to their site. I searched everywhere I could before I decided to order all of the components to make my own, but somehow didn't come across Mezel's.

I've created and sold all kinds of mods for older pins and typically just tied in lighting using Comet Matrix components and their alligator clips to hook onto a GI socket. However, AFMr is my first modern pin, and it required a different solution. I haven't really seen any posts in this thread before about these being available anywhere (just Gogdog's post about making them), so my intention was to make a ready-to-us harness available to the group that I didn't think was publicly available elsewhere.

As far as the components go to make the harnesses, if anyone desires to build their own here is where I sourced everything:

- MTA-100 feed thru headers: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 power connectors (male): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- 0.1" feedthru Z-connectors: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236 (you cut/snap these to the desired pin count - 4 pins in this case)

I don't have any kind of punch tool, so I use a narrow flathead screwdriver to punch the wiring onto the feed thru header. This process is a little precarious, and where I've nearly punched holes through my hands a few times when things slip.

#7645 7 months ago

I don't mind being downvoted for opinion posts, but what is wrong with my DIY SOL lighting mod wackybrakke? Did I not explain or show something clearly regarding the mod? I'd like to resolve whatever the issue may be.

#7647 7 months ago

Just finished v2 of my building mod. In this one, I tried to add cracks to the windows using a tested process where I actually have a waterslide decal embedded between printed layers of the clear plastic. What I learned is that it works, but my cracks need to be a lighter gray instead of black (this will be v3). I also added a couple of blast craters on the roof (front left and back right), and I reworked the inside light mounting to better diffuse the fire LEDs (I had to make it 1 cm taller to accommodate).

Version 2

Version 1 for Reference

#7649 7 months ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Is your eat at eddys building actually purple or the uv lighting effect? Can you take a pic of it without the playfield lit up?

That is the ambient lighting. It is a marble white (has a light gray appearance). See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/152#post-5254006

#7652 7 months ago

Thought I would share my final version of the building mod (sorry, no real flames).

#7654 7 months ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Awesome! If I didn’t already have the Mezel version, I’d buy this. I like it better. The green in the windows complements the green in the game nicely.

Thanks. I chose that green specifically because of how it went with the game and because green is a common tint for glass buildings.

#7656 7 months ago

I believe that my building is different enough from the other one out there, so I've decided to offer it for sale. Each building is printed from multiple 3D printed parts and assembled and glued together. The broken glass effect is achieved by embedding a waterslide decal between layers of the 3D print, so they will never fade, bubble, come loose, or otherwise degrade. The burn effects are actual burn marks that I apply with a fire starter, and I then spray the entire model with a flat clearcoat to lock in the efffect. I use Comet Matrix wiring and lighting for the fire effects and illuminated roof sign, and will include everything needed to install and connect the mod (including a harness to tap into a GI connector without modifying the current wiring). The model friction fits tightly over the chute so that there is no permanent adhesion required, and it sits flush at the base w/o interfering with the ball lock gate.

I'm offering the building for $120 which includes US shipping (will ship internationally on a per quote basis). Be default, my building is done in white marble and green glass, but I'm also happy to do custom colors (e.g. pure white, off-white, etc. for the building, and clear, blue, or some other color for the glass). I don't even mind changing the message on the roof sign as long as it can fit. While I won't do any design changes to the building, color changes or message change on the roof sign will not cost anything extra.

I have a several year history of designing, creating, and selling pinball mods (I've done mods for numerous pins, but primarily focus on the ones I own), and I know there are a few in this group that can vouch for me or I'm happy to point anyone to some of my other work if you are on the fence. For this piece, I will typically be able to ship within one week of payment. Please PM me if interested, and we can arrange details.

#7657 7 months ago

Back to my crackling plastics issue that I brought up a few weeks ago. After careful evaluation of all my plastics (I actually put my reading glasses on so I could see more details), it appears that the only ones that are really flawed are the two lane return pieces (of course, these are the two that you constantly see while playing). After speaking with CGC support, they informed me that they could only sell an entire set, but they pointed me to Bay Area Amusements where OEM individual pieces are sold. Ended up only costing me $20 with shipping to replace the two pieces. Just thought I would let everyone know in case some other current AFMr owners out there have the same issue.

#7660 7 months ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

UV light show!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That’s cool!

#7661 6 months ago

Just received and installed my v2 chip from distributor. Now what do I do? I assume I can power down the flippers a little now? What do people suggest who have dialed theirs in?

#7667 6 months ago

So I saw on Pawn Stars this week someone bringing in their Forbidden Planet poster to the shop. The poster reminded me of the art on AFM, and since I don't ever recall watching the movie as an adult (I could only remember a couple of things about it from when I saw it probably 35-40 years ago - I definitely didn't know the plot), I decided to check it out last night.

I must say, for a sci-fi movie from 1956, it really held up IMO. The SFX had to be incredibly advanced for the time as they were extremely well executed. The one thing that was kind of funny is that space travel was in a flying saucer very similarly shaped to the AFM versions. They even had a scene where they were coming out of lightspeed travel and they put themselves in a process that looked very similar to the transporter of Star Trek. I wasn't quite sure what was going on here, they defiantly weren't transporting, but this had to definitely influence that element of the Star Trek TV show. Also, a very young Leslie Nielsen played one of the lead roles. As someone who pretty much only knows him from his slapstick (Airplane, Naked Gun Series, etc.), I kept waiting for him to crack a deadpan joke, but of course this never happened.

If you've not seen it before or if its been awhile, and you're a sci-fi fan then you should check it out.
Forbiddenplanetposter (resized).jpg

#7669 6 months ago

What is the German guy saying in this game (I can easily understand everything else)?

#7672 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok...so I'm looking for a definitive answer on this. With the AFMrs….did they use phosphorescent paint for the green on the playfield? (saucers, highlights around the light lock triangles, etc).
I have tried holding a flashlight to the paint and it doesn't glow like "glow in the dark" paints do. Do you have to have special UV bulbs to make them glow?
I also tried out and installed some glow in the dark titans but they sure don't glow much.
[quoted image]
I'm wondering if its because there are no UV lamps. I could switch out my red trough light for UV though if its going to make a difference...

Look up a few posts: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/154#post-5282406

The paint is UV reactive and requires UV light to “glow”, not a standard flashlight. The paint is not phosphorescent (ie it does not charge and maintain luminescence).

#7675 6 months ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Glad to finally join the club.[quoted image]

Awesome, and welcome! Guess I'm no longer the newbie around here - tag, you're it!

#7676 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What is the German guy saying in this game (I can easily understand everything else)?

Sorry to quote myself, but I just came across this detail of all the game’s call outs, so I thought I would share: http://hem.bredband.net/b257182/afmquotes.html

#7677 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I could switch out my red trough light for UV though if its going to make a difference...

I have UV trough light, and it makes a noticeable difference down low, especially with my Titan GITD flipper rubbers.

#7679 6 months ago

Finally got around to playing with the custom logo. I tried several, but in the end settled for something simple. Since it is so small, anything with too much detail or not enough contrast just didn't work well, IMO.

If anyone would like my image then please PM me with your email address.

#7680 6 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Which Pinstadium kit did you have to buy to make this happen on your game? They have to many options. It looks amazing. Thanks for the video.

The standard version is all you need (of course you can always go bigger): https://pinstadium.com/product/pin-stadium-lights

FYI, when I bought mine less than a month ago I searched the web and found a current 15% off promo code before I ordered: "buffalo". Not sure how long this will be active, but you should at least try it if you are going to order.

#7683 6 months ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

How did you do that?
Is there documentation?

In the manual, but outlined in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/27#post-4095492

You just need a microSD card to transfer the file.

#7685 6 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Thanks T,
So, you didn't have to buy the flasher kit in addition too

The UV flashers are included. Just pick AFMr for your game. If you want to add on the other kit for multiple flasher integration then that is extra.

#7689 6 months ago

So, yesterday I colored my 4 aliens' exposed muscles silver (used a silver Sharpie), designed and made myself a decal for the top of the 3 center targets (modeled after the existing one out there I like), adjusted the target mech so that it was more level and balls wouldn't get stuck with it lowered, and ordered all the parts to make interactive illuminated flipper buttons (I still need to design a 3D print model for the brackets that the LED strips will adhere to).

If others are interested, the illuminated integrated flipper buttons are a mod that I would be willing to sell as a kit to make it easy on those less prone to doing DIY projects. Probably not for everyone and I don't really have a final tally on it yet, but just something I wanted to do to my game.

#7692 6 months ago

Well, nothing that others haven't already done and shared in this thread. However, I'm thinking about and working on a couple of other small things. Once I get the buttons wired and working then I'll post pics of everything.

#7693 6 months ago

Has anyone done any custom coin reject inserts for this game yet? That will definitely be something on my "to do" list as I don't like the generic ones that come with the game. They look like someone is turning up the volume to me instead of inserting a coin. Seriously, who holds a coin like that when they are about to insert it into a game? Also, looks like a woman's hand with well manicured fingernails. Not that I have anything against women, but just not representative of the vast majority of middle-aged men pinball enthusiasts of whom I imagine mostly have unkept nails (I've seen enough of my share of close-up pics and vids on Pinside to be highly confident in my assertion).

I'd probably go with Martian heads (either b&w outline or maybe even a color image would work with these).

pasted_image (resized).png

#7695 6 months ago

I'm very frustrated

I just received the two lane return replacement plastics I ordered to replace my crackling ones, and they have the same exact issue. Now I have to go through the hassle of trying to return them or get them replaced with good ones.

IMG_2971 (resized).JPGIMG_2972 (resized).JPG


IMG_2974 (resized).JPGIMG_2973 (resized).JPG
#7696 6 months ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

You can buy green coin rejects from twisted quarter. Here’s a link for the inserts.
https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0BxfIenA1e2fNdXZ4OWdFeERWUWs[quoted image]

Thanks. I may still see what the green Martians look like.

#7697 6 months ago

So here is what I did decaling the mothership area. I still want to come up with something for the drop target (maybe a reticle with an explosion - I'm open to ideas). I'm not going to do anything for the green Martian targets or the two targets behind the gate since I like the transparent green, and the other two are hardly visible from the player's perspective.

- Made a 3 target series with a flying saucer theme and a marsscape as the background
- Made the 3 target bank top decal
- Colored the exposed muscles of all 4 Martians with a Silver Metallic Sharpie

#7698 6 months ago

I still need to design a mounting bracket for the LEDs, but overall the illuminated flipper buttons were a fairly simple mod. Of course I had to order all of the parts and make my own wiring harness to tap into the LED speaker connector, but everything went smoothly.

#7705 6 months ago

Finished the flipper button LED mount designs (different for left & right). Now I just need to print and test for fit. FYI, these will be adhered to the inside of the cabinet using the same high-tack double-sided adhesive I use for all of my decals. I wanted to avoid adding screw holes to the cab if possible, so I'll have to see how things workout.

pasted_image (resized).png
#7706 6 months ago

Yes, I know, and this is a great mod you've put together. Under cab lighting is not for me (at least for now), but I used the same principles I learned from reading the informative posts here about how you guys did it to design and integrate my flipper buttons. While I had to build a couple of custom cables, everything else was off the shelf LED cables and connectors.

#7707 6 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

My coin inserts are custom and very similar to what was posted above
[quoted image]

I like them. Nice job.

#7708 6 months ago

For the drop target I decided to go nuclear, and I'm really happy with how it came out.

#7709 6 months ago

I anyone is interested in purchasing any of the decals, please PM me. Pricing including US shipping is as follows:

- Target bank top decal | $6
- Drop target decal | $5
- 3 Bank target decals | $12

The full set of decals ordered together | $20 (save $3)

All decals are printed on a photo quality printer using only OEM inks and ultra gloss OEM paper. I coat them with a clear gloss vinyl, precision cut, and color edges on the drop target and target bank top decals. For adhesion I use a high tack double-sided sheet that covers the entire decal, and on the drop targets I use a shock absorbing clear mounting tape that does not require the center be punched out for the target rivet.

FYI, installing the drop target can be a challenge, but here is how I did it (takes a little work, but makes install a snap).

1) Turn on the game and start if required to bring the drop target in the up position. Turn the game back off.
2) Fully pull out the playfield and rest on lockbar support.
3) From backside of backboard removed the two screws holding in the mothership assembly.
4) Set mothership assembly aside to where you can easily access the drop target.
5) The drop target is very sensitive, so do not touch it from the front side. Remove the decal backing, use one hand to push forward from the backside of the drop target, and apply the decal evenly with the other hand (should be flush with top and both sides).
6) Reposition mothership assembly then insert and tighten the two screws.

When installing the top target bank decal, do so when the assembly is in the lowered position (you will need to press decal firmly into place, so lower position is better.

#7710 6 months ago

Just finished installing my flipper button LEDs using my custom brackets. Very clean install, and the brackets worked as I had hoped.
IMG_2984 (resized).JPGIMG_2989 (resized).JPGIMG_2987 (resized).JPGIMG_2990 (resized).JPG

#7712 6 months ago
Quoted from markp99:

Nice idea. Just a "holder" for the LED strip, right? Any pics from outside the cabinet?

Yes, just a holder for the strip without doing anything permanent to the cabinet. I meant to post external pics, but must have somehow messed up. I can take some more later, but here is my previous post that shows the overall results when I was testing.


I probably spent more than is reasonable just to illuminate the buttons (wouldn't be the first time I did such a thing on a pinball machine), but I like them. Here in the next day or two I'm going to calculate what everything costs, and if there is enough interest (I'd probably need at least 5 orders) then I'll sell full plug-and-play kits that include everything.

#7713 6 months ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Those Martians look great! I need to do this!

I can lead a horse to water . . .

amazon.com link »

#7717 6 months ago
Quoted from markp99:

My "Duct Tape Solution" (tm) would be much less elegant than this one!
I might have some interest in a kit for this.
Actually, I have a bunch of RGB LED boards left over from my GoT project. I bet a simple bracket might suffice to hang this near the flipper buttons. Might not be bright enough, but worth a try.

I'd be happy to sell the brackets separate on their own for $10 including US shipping. They are 3D printed in black with adhesive backing covering the entire surface for attaching to the interior of the cabinet. I'll even add a hole in the center bracket handle in case someone wants to screw them into place. Anyone can PM me if interested in purchasing.

#7718 6 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

The ship was decelerating to sub-light speed, therefore:
"A variation of the classic transporter beam was employed in the ship's D.C. (deceleration) stations to protect the spacecraft's occupants from the worst effects of decelerating out of hyperspace and back into real-space. This feature was later internalized in the newer starships which used warp drive nacelles, thus making the point where the actual jump in or out of warp space or hyperspace virtually unnoticeable."
Lot of interesting reading about Forbidden Planet here:

Very cool (in a sci-fi nerdy kind of way). Thanks for the link.

#7719 6 months ago

So, after evaluating everything, I'm offering my interactive illuminated flipper mod kit for $50 including US shipping. I will want a minimum of 5 commitments before I'm willing to take orders (I have to buy many of the items in bulk to make the kit). After the initial 5, I will need commitments in increments of 5 to fulfill subsequent orders. Please reply to this post if you are in, and if we hit at least 5 by the end of the weekend then payment will be required and I'll begin production.

Kit will include everything you need to illuminate both flipper buttons and will interact with the speaker lights:
- Power splitter to tap into speaker lighting
- Cabling from the backbox to the cabinet
- Splitter in cabinet to left & right extension cables
- 2x Extension cables
- 2x Interface to LED strips
- 2x LED strips (3 SMD each)
- 2x 3D printed LED strip adhesive mounts
- 2x Transparent flipper buttons with springs

I will also create step-by-step directions for installation. There will be no modification of the pin or its wiring required.

#7722 6 months ago

That's 10+ commits for the flipper button mod thus far.

mjannusch (maybe 2 if works with MBr)
Tilted81 (maybe 2)
Wolftownjeff (maybe 2)

#7726 6 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Any idea if these will work for MBr too?

Quoted from mjannusch:

I'm in as well for at least one set. 2 sets if it'll work in MBrLE also (which I'd think it would).

Good question. Can someone take some close-ups of the following in MBr for me?

- The LED connection to the speaker (remove the backglass and lower the speaker panel. You should see a 4 wire connector (square shaped if viewed from end) somewhere near the left and/or right speaker with red/gree/blue and a yellow or black wire probably). Connectors will look like the photo below.
- An inside shot of each of the button areas like I posted here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/155#post-5293448

C3E76460-D8B6-4E1E-9DB6-A4FA0BB702F7 (resized).jpeg
#7730 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can you show a pic of your connection at the speakers? We run our undercab lights through that connection, plug and play, and I just want to make sure there won’t be any compatibility issues so people don’t have to worry about it if they have our kit already (or have yours and want ours). If you made your connections like we made ours, anyone who buys your flipper buttons will not have to worry about compatibility with our undercab lights. And yes, the connection is the same for MBR. You must have an SE or an LE for these to work.
Our undercab and instructions can be found here:

All I do is use a Y cable with the same 4 pin connectors to feed off of the RGB +12V. I don’t see any reason why both wouldn’t be compatible. Mine could just Y off your Y, or even Y off the other speaker.

Better yet, for those who already have your mod, I could offer a 3 way splitter that would replace yours and my two way ones. That way they would only need one splitter but it would feed both mods.

I can try to get a pic up tomorrow.

#7731 6 months ago

Okay, I’ve been getting lots of PMs and things are getting hectic (I never thought the mod would be so popular). So, I’m definitely going to do a first run. I think I’ll give everyone a chance to commit through Sunday, so I can order all the materials on Monday. I’ll be PMing everyone over the next couple of days to provide payment info.

After seeing the pics for MBr, my mod will also work for it. I’ve also had a question about working with MMR. Are there any MMR owners out there who can confirm that the connections are the same (pics would be great)?

#7734 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Mmr does not have speaker lights that are stock with the game.

Does it have any RGB line you can tap into?

#7737 6 months ago
Quoted from YZRider926:

MMR might be doable with the new rgb lighting and panel upgrade kits coming out.

If a MMR was equipped with the RGB lighting as the other CGC pins are, I’m sure they would use the same wiring and both my nod and the under cab lights should have no issues connecting. It sounds like the MMr RE will have standard, but I’m still unclear if there will be a full RGB retrofit offered, and if so when it will be released.

#7738 6 months ago
Quoted from BentleyBear:

Set me up for 1.

On the list. FYI, please PM me with your address and I can provide an accurate shipping quote.

#7740 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can you show a pic of your connection at the speakers? We run our undercab lights through that connection, plug and play, and I just want to make sure there won’t be any compatibility issues so people don’t have to worry about it if they have our kit already (or have yours and want ours). If you made your connections like we made ours, anyone who buys your flipper buttons will not have to worry about compatibility with our undercab lights. And yes, the connection is the same for MBR. You must have an SE or an LE for these to work.
Our undercab and instructions can be found here:

Here you go. Pic of current splitter with potential add-on male lead to power both buttons & undercab, along with pic with everything tucked in place.

BTW, not only do I crimp my wire leads, but I also solder and test them to ensure 100% they work and will not fail.


#7742 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

How long of LED strips do most people use for undercabinet lighting? 10SMD, or...20SMD+?
Huh...I would have thought comet pinball would have rgb led strips...but I can't find them there. Do we have to go to Ebay or something to find them?

I can't speak to the length, but if you want a full DIY and not the plug-and-play kit from Lermods or the flipper button kit I'm offering, then these will do the trick: amazon.com link »

If you don't want the brightness of the 5050 SMDs, then you could go with a 2835 SMD strip or something in between.

#7745 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ah nice...learn something new every day. Ok, so with those strips, you cut in 3 smd sections (so 3, 6, 9, etc), and then solder the wires directly to the strips at the 4 connection points.
Though...the led strips I was buying from comet are usually 6.3V, and these are 12V (though comet does sell 12V versions as well). I guess the speaker lights in AFMr are running 12V that you are tapping into, vs the GI lights (that I tapped into to run a trough light) are 6.3V?

Yes those strips can be cut in multiples of 3. Yes, RGB lighting is 12V in the game. You can either solder or use connectors.

#7746 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I don't think you need to make that extra lead for undercab. Your connections will work fine with my undercab.

Just an OCD thing for the buyer, do they want 2 splitters linked together or a single one.

#7748 6 months ago

FYI, cutoff for first round of AFMr/MBr flipper button lighting kit will be this Sunday at 1:00 Central (must have paid by then). I'll be sending out PMs to everyone who has expressed interest thus far later today to everyone listed here, but please PM me if you want to order and aren't in the list below:


#7752 6 months ago

Saturday morning check in on LED flipper button kits.

Thus far 16 kits have been reserved, and 14 have already been paid for. Reminder that the deadline for ordering & payment is tomorrow at 1:00PM Central. After the cutoff, I'm going to order all components so that I can get everything in, made, and shipped as quickly as possible.

#7753 6 months ago